For a very large city, |
Paris:- Thursday, 7. March 1996:- After my trip to
the Champs-Elysées on Tuesday, it occurred to me
that I had seen a poster announcing an exposition, entitled
'Metamorphoses Parisiennes,' located at the Pavillon de
l'Arsenal. The Champs-Elysées had been through some
of these, and I wondered if there would be anything about
it at this exposition.
The Pavillon de l'Arsenal is located in the 4th arrondissement, right handy to the Métro stop Sully-Morland - so if it's raining and it was, you won't get very wet if you sprint to it. The 'pavillon' has never had anything to do with arsenals - it is merely in the quarter of the Arsenal du Roi; it was purpose built as a picture gallery in 1879 by one-time wood merchant Laurent-Louis Borniche, to house his collection of 2000 paintings. On his death a few years later, his daughter sold the lot to a noodle works, and the building saw many diverse uses after that, until the Ville de Paris acquired it in 1954. In 1988 the 'pavillon' was converted to its original use - and I must say it is an attractive building inside and out. |
|
The current exposition features a series of displays -
showing particular parts of Paris, and how they have
evolved over time. It is not a big show; so there should be
time to look at the permanent exhibits at the same time.Of
course I was in the right place - in spirit - to research
my little history of the Champs-Elysées.
However, like the building I was in, I have had a few careers more than I care to remember - and what a coincidence! - I have spent time in a city planning department. The result was that I forgot about the Champs-Elysées in particular, and got hung up on all the displays in general, forgot to take any notes, and generally messed up this self-assignment to explicitly tell you about this particular exhibition. No matter. If you are interested the city as sort of a living organism that sheds skin and grows new - not a bloodless 'Sim City,' but the real snorting, steaming, heaving, wrenching thing that is a city with a past and a future and a fluid present, then you can find the tip of the iceberg of it in this house. |
Wooden model of the centre of Paris
The plan shows where current redevelopment
activity |
City planning - a dirty phrase for some - is the nuts and
bolts of the constant re-design and perhaps redirection of
a city, in which real people live. It is not an abstract
exercise. If you are going to rip down the slum that - was
- the 14th arrondissement for example; then you had better
be prepared to deal with people. To get things done within
anybody's lifetime, dictatorial powers are handy to have.
So there is the conflict: nobody will voluntarily agree to anything. Without power, city planners do sit in very real ivory towers, turning out plan after plan until they are choking on them. With power - oh ho - then it's doom in Mudville. "It may be a filthy slum, but it's MY filthy slum, and I love it." The Berlin senate wanted to tear something down once, and rebuild it - and they hit on the idea of sending all the inhabitants (mostly retired) to Majorca for the duration - for three years I think it was. Majorca had empty hotels and the rent there with full board was much cheaper than anything that could be found in Berlin - if anything could be found. Berlin went ahead with the idea, but I never heard anything about how many people used their return tickets. |
|
The Arsenal show did have one small maquette made for the new sidewalk layout of the Champs-Elysées. They forgot to put any people on it. Now that I've found the place I'll go back and skim them for information - because despite the loss of some colorful slums, Paris does display some good ideas - and they might be worth passing on. In case you want to note the information about the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, I will include it here: 21, boulevard Morland, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland or Bastille. Closed Mondays. Shop has books, catalogues of past shows; there is a documentation service with slides, films, photos - there are conferences, tours, and periodic events. Tel.: 42 76 33 97. Architects, and especially City Planners, are welcome. |
| Send email concerning the contents to: Ric Erickson, Editor. Metropole Paris © 2008 – unless stated otherwise. |
|
Join other readers like you to support Metropole. To keep Metropole online, send your contribution today. |