Nice Day: See Tigers;
Rainy Day: See Tropical Plants

cartoon: 'tango' erickson©1998
Tango is forever - and continuing - in Paris.

Only 22 Days of Tango Left To Go

Paris:- Saturday, 10. October 1998:- The Jardin des Plantes is an all-weather attraction at this time of year, when it might be either raining or not. If it is, there is a bit of jungle to lose yourself in if you don't mind getting steamed up a bit.

If it is fine, then you can take the kids to the zoo where they can see French tigers, giraffes, monkeys and exotic birds. If it is otherwise, then you can go inside a take a look at the vast natural history collections - as well as the hall devoted to endangered species.

brochure: tiger, nat historyMuséum National d'Historie Naturelle, Grand Galerie de l'Evolution and Jardin des Plantes, is a long name for one address: 36. rue Geoffrey Saint-Hilaire, Paris 5. Three métro stations are about equidistant from the Jardin des Plantes: Austerlitz, Jussieu, with Censier-Daubenton being the closest. Closed Tuesdays, the hours are 10:00 to 18:00, and Thursdays until 22:00. Info. Tel.: 01 40 79 30 00.

World 'Refuse Misery' Day

Everybody who feels solidarity with the poor and miserable of the world, is invited to show their concern in person, on this occasion, or any time you feel like it so long as it is often. During the afternoon there will be various stands, conference areas and participation in debates will be open to all.

Parvis du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro. Saturday, 17. October, starting at 12:00.

New Salon - l'Art de la Maison

For the first time - parked on 8000 square metres of the grass at the Auteuil racetrack, about 120 exhibitors are going to tempt visitors with 'L'Art de Vivre' which has a lot to do with the objects that are the physical part of our 'styles de vie.' The high-end elements of decor, in other words - on display and for sale.

'L'Art de la Maison' - Hippodrome d'Auteuil
Métro: line 9, porte d'Auteuil. Buses 32, 52 and PC. Thursday and Friday, 15. and 16. October, from 10:00 to 22:00. Saturday and Sunday, 17. and 18. October, from 10:00 to 20:00 and Monday, 19. October, from 10:00 to 18:00.

Andalusian Horse Show

The posters have been all over Paris for what seems like months, but the Ecole Royale Andalouse d'Art Equestre show at Bercy, is now close enough to mention; especially if you like watching beautiful horses do some very fancy stepping.

This 60-horse 'school' comes to Paris from Jerez de la Frontera, with musicians and dancers. Despite the size of Bercy, there are only 1,600 places available for each of thebrochure: andualusian horse show bercy three performances scheduled: Friday, Saturday and Sunday, 23, 24 and 25. October. The first two are at 20:30 and Sunday's show is at 14:30.

I slipped up here because advance reserved tickets are only sold by mail, and the closing date was 5. October. However, there may still be tickets available. At Bercy, from 11:00 to 18:00 daily, except Sundays. Or from TicketNet plus some ticket sales locations such as fnac, Virgin Megastore, Carrefour, Auchan or Galeries Lafayette. The Info. Tel.: 01 44 68 44 68 may also have tickets.

Palais Omnisports de Paris-Bercy
This is plain 'Bercy' to Parisians and its métro stop is Bercy in the 12th arrondissement. It is on the rue de Bercy, beside the Pont de Bercy so you can't miss it. It is probably the only grass pyramid in Paris.

Un Siècle de Tango - Paris Buenos Aires

Paris' 100 Years of Tango may not be of interest to anybody except tango fanciers, but it is no less relevant because Paris is gripped in an increasing frenzy - no, mania! - of Latin dancing.

The source for this information wrote, "Many people may not be aware of the connections between Tango and Paris, or that Carlos Gardel - the 'Caruso' of Tango - was born in Toulouse; immigrated with his mother at age four to Argentina, and returned in 'triumph' at the height of his career, to Paris."

Here is the second week's program, starting with Monday:

Monday, 12. October: at 20:30; opening of an exhibition with the theme of 'Tango Paris,' by the Ambassador of Argentina, Archibaldo Lanus. Featuring documents assembled by Nardo Zalko and paintings by Ricardo Mosner and Delphine Grenier; with a concert to be performed by Juan Carlos Carrasco. Entry is by invitation only.
At the Espace Kiron, 10. rue de la Vacquerie, Paris 11. Métro: Voltaire. Info. Tel.: 01 44 64 11 50.

Tuesday, 13. October: at 18:30; presentation of the book 'Un Siècle de Tango, Paris Buenos Aires,' with a debate in the presence of the author, Nardo Zalko. With Michel Anfrol, Miguel Benassayag, Claude Dubois and Mlle Eli Medeiros - all of the 'Maison de l'Amerique Latine' - who will also be taking part.
At 21:00, the concert 'Tangos pour Maiakovski' by Girard Maimone.
At the Espace Kiron, see address above.

Wednesday, 14. October: at 21:00; repeat of the concert 'Tangos pour Maiakovski' by Girard Maimone.
At the Espace Kiron, see address above.

Thursday, 15. October: at 21:00: dance spectacular 'Bienvenue Tango,' which will be a presentation of the tango's origins and in all its forms, by Fabian Hojman and Silvina Valz. At the Espace Kiron; see address above.
From 21:00 to 23:00; 'Jueves de Tango' - which is a 'bal' and tango exhibition; at the Fondation Argentine, Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris. Closest transit stop is Cité Universitaire on the RER line 'B.'

Friday, 16. October: at 21:00; a tango concert by Astor Piazzolla, with the duo Osvaldo Calo and Sébastien Couranjou (piano and violin). At the Espace Kiron; see address above.

Saturday, 17. October: 16:00 to 19:00; tango lessons for everybody, given by Silvina Valz and Fabian Hojman. Places must be booked in advance. From 20:30 to 24:00, 'Bal Tango' and argentinean buffet preceded by a demonstration by F. Hojman and S. Valz. At the Espace Kiron; Tel.: 01 44 64 11 50; see address above.

Sunday, 18. October: at 17:30; a reading of tales by Tania Lopez Sierra. At 19:30; a projection by Julio Cortazar, Alain Caroff and Claude Namer. This will be followed at 20:30 by 'The Oral Tradition' - this will be an Internet debate between 'tangueros' online worldwide, with Mme Luisa Futoransky, Raul Silva Caceres and Claude Namer.
At the Webbar, 32. rue de Picardie, Paris 3. Métro stop: either Temple or République.

Next week's program continues much as this week's, but mark Thursday, 29. October in your calendar. Coming from the Cannes Festival, the national premiere of Carlos Saura's 'Tango' will take place at the Institut du Monde Arabe on this date. Another big date is Thursday, 5. November, also at the Institut du Monde Arabe. Saturday, 7. November will see 12 hours of non-stop tango at the Le Latina cinema, as a final send-off to this 35-day happy-toes event.

For more information, call Claude Namer at 01 48 87 74 23 or fax to: 01 48 87 66 50. Details of the program continue here next week.

Current Events:

The Big Art Fairs Finish Monday

The 'FIAC' and the Grande Marché de l'Art both end on Monday, 12. October. The first is having its 25th edition and I think features art dealers showing off their contemporary artists' works. The second, with its 20th edition, features artists - in person - who have rented stands to show off their works, which may or may not be 'contemporary.' The two exhibitions do not see exactly eye-to-eye in other words.
FIAC, Espace Eiffel-Branley, Paris 7. Hours for Monday, are 12:00 to 18:00.
The Grande Marché de l'Art is located in the foyer of the Grande Arche at La Défense. Monday from 11:00 to 20:00. Two hundred artists will be taking part in this show.

Pierre Wemaëre

In a show of paintings done from 1935 to 1998, Pierre Wemaëre 'embraces color;' until Sunday, 18. October. This exhibition can be seen at the Convent des Cordeliers, 15. rue de l'Ecole-de-Médecine, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon. Except Mondays, open daily from 11:00 to 19:00.

Constant Permeke Retrospective

Belgian landscape painter Constant Permeke is being treated to a retrospective in the Hôtel de Ville's Salle Saint-Jean.

The exhibition continues until Sunday, 1. November. It is open daily from Tuesdays to Sundays, from 11:00 to 19:00. There is no entry charge. Info. Tel.: 01 42 76 51 53.

The Big Shows

Gustave Moreau at the Grand Palais

It is for you to decide whether Gustave Moreau hated women or not, and a good place to start with this question is at the current exhibition. Moreau was a symbolist painter so there may be no easy answer.

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais
Until 4. January 1999. Entry Clemencéau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 17. Moreau donated his residence to the city or the state in 1897 and this began as the Musée Gustave Moreau in January 1903. In 1991 it was opened to the public, which has paid it scant attention. This museum-residence is at 14. rue de la Rochefoucauld, Paris 9. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 38 50.

L'Automne Italien

Paris' Italian autumn has already started, with paintings by Tintoretto, 13 on loan from Venice andbrochure: theatre dela cite, saison 98-99 the others from French collections, being displayed in the Salle des Fëtes in the Mairie of the 5th. At 21. place du Panthéon, Paris 5. Open Monday to Saturday from 11:00 to 17:45 and on Sundays and holidays from 14:00 to 17:45. Info. Tel.: 01 43 29 21 75.

Tiepolo moves into the Petit Palais on Thursday, 22. October for a stay until 24. January 1999. This is the first Tiepolo exhibition in France and about 70 paintings will be on display along with 33 engravings and 40 drawings. Note also that two Tiepolo frescos are on show at the Musée Jacquemart-André. (See address below.)
Petit Palais, avenue Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Open Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 17:40; on Thursdays until 20:00.

Rites et Festins de la Chine Antique

This is also known at 'Bronzes du Musée de Shanghai' - plus there is a mention that the museum where it is being shown is having its 100th anniversary. I do not know Chinese art objects at all, but judging from the length of this expo, these are important items that you would otherwise have to travel to Shanghai to see.
Musée Cernuschi
7. avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Until 10. January 1999. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. Métro: Villiers.


One word is enough for this exhibition of works by the painters and sculptors of central Africa. There are 240 pieces on display, many seen in public here for the first time; many coming from European collections.
Musée National des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie
293. avenue Daumesnil, Paris 12. Métro: porte Dorée. Until 4. January 1999. Open, except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 17:30; until 18:00 on weekends. Info. Tel.: 01 43 46 51 61.

Musée des Beaux Arts de Rouen

For the occasion of the reopening of its south wing, this museum is presenting two major 17th century works: 'Salomé Recevant la Tête de Saint Jean-Baptiste' by Caravagggio and 'Le Temps Calme' by Poussin. One comes from the London's National Gallery and the other is from the Getty Museum in Los Angeles. These two match the Rouen museum's own 'Christ à la Colonne' by Caravagggio and 'L'Orage' by Poussin.

The autumn exhibition is also the occasion to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the death of Marcel Duchamp, who came from Blainville-Crevon, near Rouen. Duchamp's 'La Boîte-en-Valise,' a 'portable' museum, is on show.

The Caravagggio - Poussin show continues until Thursday, 10. December. 'Le Maniérisme Dans les Ecoles du Nord' show lasts until 20. January 1999. The Marcel Duchamp exhibit remains on show until 15. January 1999.

Musée des Beaux Arts
Square Verdrel, Rouen. Open, except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 18:00. Info. Tel.: 02 35 71 28 40.

Two Big Painters

They never met, except in this exhibition in the Musée d'Orsay, but Jean-François Millet, who lived from 1814 to 1875, had a big influence on Vincent Van Gogh, born in 1853, dead in 1890.

Lightning hit Van Gogh at an exhibition of Millet's designs and pastels in 1875, just a few months after the death of the latter. At the time, Van Gogh was hustling paintings for an art dealer - he didn't begin painting until 1880.

This exhibition places similar paintings by the two artists side-by-side for the viewer to draw obvious conclusions - of the inspirations Van Gogh drew from Millet; to finally gain his own identity - showing also how artists learn from each other. The comparisons do not lessen Van Gogh's stature; they undoubtedly increase that of the less well-known Millet.

This is one of the fall season's big shows, so all the business of making advance reservations applies. Entry charge: 40 francs, reduced: 30 francs. Catalogue: 190 francs.

Musée d'Orsay
1. rue de la Légion-d'Honneur, Paris 7. This exhibition continues until 3. January 1999. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00; on Sundays from 9:00 to 18:00 and on Thursdays until 21:45. Info. Tel.: 01 40 49 48 73.

The History of Medicine

This museum has one of the oldest collections in Europe and is on show in one of the great halls of the Collège de Chirurgie. Much of the collection was assembled by Lafaye in the 18th century, and it includes items dating to the end of the 19th century. Rare tool kits of old surgeons are on display; sensitive visitors should leave their imaginations outside.

Le Musée d'Historie de la Médecine
In the courtyard of the Université René-Descartes, at 12. rue de l'Ecole-de-Médecine, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon. Info. Tel.: 01 40 46 16 93.

Théâtres des Sens

This has already been open for many months now, but is probably still worth a visit, especially if it is raining as it seems to be doing all the time now.

If you think the French are pretty good at making fancy stuff for high prices, and you are either a dreamer or rich or have managed to keep from being beaten up in the market lately, then this is probably a real treat of an exhibition.

Les Quatre Théâtres des Sens
Palais de la Découverte, avenue Franklin-Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: Franklin-Roosevelt. This show runs until 3. January 1999. Open from Tuesday to Saturdays, from 9:30 to 18:00; on Sundays from 10:00 to 19:00. Info. Tel.: 01 40 74 89 00.

A Last-Chance Event: At the Musée Jacquemart-André

This is the private mansion - itself worth seeing! - with a collection containing two Tiepolo frescos - in the process of being restored. These are on display until some time in October.

Musée Jacquemart-André
158. boulevard Haussmann, Paris 8. Open daily from 10:00 to 18:00, and the museum's café is open daily from 11:30 to 17:30. Info. Tel.: 01 42 89 04 91. Nearest métro station: Saint-Philippe-du-Roule.

Opéra and Ballet:

Ballet: 'Coppélia' by Léo Delibes, until 25. October, at the Opéra Garnier.

On the Boards - Théâtres:

The Théâtre de la Cité Internationale has a winter program which has already begun. Electre, by Hugo Hofmannsthal, directed by Michel Cerda, is playing now, until Friday, 20. November. This theatre has a dance program too, whichbrochure: danse, theatre dela ville begins on Saturday, 21. November. 'Carmen Linares' is a musical, which begins on Thursday, 3. December.

Théâtre de la Cité Internationale
21. boulevard Jourdan, Paris 14. Closest transit stop is Cité Universitaire on the RER line 'B.' For the full program, call Info. Tel.: 01 43 13 50 50.

On the Floor - Dancing:

The Théâtre de la Ville et des Abbesses is another municipal centre for the performing arts - theatre, dance, music, 'world music,' and singing - and its 1998-1999 season has a program of 87 events, for which I do not have a single detail, yet.

Théâtre de la Ville et des Abbesses
29. - 31. rue des Abbesses, Paris 18. Métro: Abbesses. Info. Tel.: 01 42 74 22 77.

On Screen - Film Cycles:

Anges et Idiots is the title the current cycle of brochure: films 'anges et idiots'movies, running until Monday, 26. October, at the auditorium of the Louvre. The subtitle is 'Figures de l'Innocence.' Monday's films are probably silent, but most of the other films are from the '40's, '50's and '60's. Some director's names are Kurosawa, J-D Pollet, Frank Capra, Truffaut, Rosselini, Fellini and Buster Keaton.

During the week, on Mondays, Thursday and Fridays, the showing times are usually at 20:30. Double features on Saturdays and Sundays start at 18:00. Single films are 25 francs, but a choice of ten can be had for 170 francs.

Auditorium du Louvre, entry by way of the Pyramid. Métro: Palais- Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 51 86.

The Pompidou Centre - Where's Beaubourg?

The interior of this museum has been undergoing interior renovations since October 1987. Many of the museum's collections will be on view at other museums in Paris, at other cities in France and other countries - until the renovations are completed.

In front of the museum there is a tepee - see photo in this week's 'Au Bistro' column - which has information about the centre, presented in a multimedia form. The public library remains open at 11. rue Brantôme, just to the north of the museum. The south gallery will be showing 'Dijon/Le Consortium.Coli' in November and David Hockney arrives in January 1999. The Atelier Brancusi also remains open.

Musée d'Art Moderne

This Ville de Paris museum is showing a selection from Beaubourg, through to 19. September 1999. Currently, the 1920's are represented by Braque, Masson, Miro, Magritte, Ernst, Derain and Fautrier. In November a new cycle starts with Nouveau Realisme and Arte Povera.

Pierre Huyghe, Dominique Gonzalez-Foester and Philippe Parreno are young French artists whose works are also currently on display, until 29. November.

Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris
11; avenue du Président Wilson, Paris 16. Open Tuesdays to Friday from 10:00 to 17:30; Saturday and Sunday from 10:00 to 18:45. Special openings on 1. and 11. November. Info. Tel.: 01 53 40 00.

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