Believe It Or Not - More Tango

photo: the petit palais
The Petit Palais, which is not so 'petit,'
but is opposite the Grand Palais.

And Paris Does Halloween!

Paris:- Saturday, 24. October 1998:- According to the city of Paris, Halloween is definitely Celtic in origin - although what Celts have to dophoto: pumpkin, to left with Paris beyond all the Irish pubs everywhere and the Breton bars around Montparnasse, I don't know.

Paris does have its kids though, so there are two locations for them. The first is the Parc Floral and the 2nd edition of 'Si On Jouait...' which is a toy salon with lots of bonbons. It features ateliers for making costumes and masks and a grand parade. Events take place from Saturday, 28. October until Sunday, 1. November. From 10:00 to 18:30, in the Parc Floral, in the Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12.

At the other end of the city, in the Jardin d'Acclimatation, kids can see the 'Danse des Citrouilles,' as well as take part in the ateliers for disguises, mask-making, decoration, a hunt for treasures and a 'Bal des Vampires,' which is not just for kids. From Monday, 26. October until Saturday, 31. October. pumpkin, to right Tel.: 01 40 67 90 82. At the Jardin d'Acclimatation; métro: Neuilly-Sablons.

For bigger kids: 3,000 are expected to show up at a big Halloween bal organized by the Grandes Ecoles at the Espace Congrès les Esselières at Villejuif, near the Porte de l'Italie. The students of the Grands Ecoles are notorious party organizers so this one will not be for the faint-hearted. Blast-off is at 22:00 after paying an entry of 100 francs. Call for info: 01 46 68 62 41, mornings only.

Giacometti, Richier, Gutfreund

Otherwise known as 'Bourdelle et Ses Elèves,' this show presents the works of some of Bourdelle's students; Alberto Giacometti, Germaine Richier and Otto Gutfreund. Bourdelle gave courses from 1909 untilbrochure: expo musee bourdelle his death in 1929, at the Academie de la Grand Chaumière - Montparnasse's most famous art school in the '20's.

Unlike the Beaux-Arts, Bourdelle taught free-thinking and invention, telling his students to do anything but copy him. This worked for Bordelle and his students, many of whom became famous as artists. Works presented show the results of Bourdelle's teaching, which gave a new elan to sculpture.

Musée Bourdelle
18. rue Antoine-Bourdelle, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. Starting Tuesday; until 7. February 1999. Open from 10:00 to 17:40 daily except Mondays. Info. Tel.: 01 49 54 73 73.

Anish Kapoor - Sculpted Holes

The Bombay-born British sculptor, Anish Kapoor, is not well-known in France, but currently has two exhibitions running; one in Paris and the other in Bordeaux. In an interview with Libération there is talk of an original vacuum... which I can't quite follow, so you should go to the chapel at Saint-Louis de la Salpêtrière, at 42. boulevard de l'Hôpital, Paris 13, to see it soon - the last chance is Sunday, 1. November. Now that I've found the brochure, I can say this is worth seeing. Info. Tel.: 01 53 45 17 00.

This is an exhibition within the all-over 'Festival d'Automne' which I have not forgotten to mention, but just didn't get around to it - as it is - was - a bunch of micro-events.

(Short) Semaine de l'Artisanat Parisien

Working artisans may be fewer but they are still alive andbrochure: artisanat well in Paris today. This is an exhibition where the items on show are on sale. See furniture, lamps, costume jewelry, fashion accessories, table arts and other items - but for a short time only: from Thursday, 29. October until Sunday, 1. November.

Espace des Blancs-Manteaux
48. rue Vielle-du-Temple, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. Open from 11:00 to 20:00. Info/ Tel.: 01 53 33 53 18.

Cluny - Musée National du Moyen Age

In addition to mentioning the opening of a new exhibition room - 'Les Hommes et Leur Cadre de Vie à la Fin du Moyen Age' - this is a general reminder of this museum. In addition to casual visits, the museum has a wide selection of guided visits, conferences and theme visits, for both individuals and groups. There are ateliers for kids as well.

Musée National du Moyen Age - Thermes and Hôtel de Cluny
6. place Paul-Painlevé, Paris 5. Métro: Cluny-La Sorbonne. Open daily except Tuesdays, from 9:15 to 17:15. Closed 25. December and 1. January 1999. Early closing at 16:00 on 23. December and 31. December. Best times for casual visits are between noon and 14:00 and after 15:30. The library is open until 18:00. Info. Tel.: 01 53 73 78 16.

Salon du Patrimoine

No detailed information on this one, other than the keywords: conservation, restoration and restitution. Daily from 10:00 to 19:00, from Thursday, 5. November to Sunday, 8. November. In the Carrousel du Louvre, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 49 53 27 00.

Un Siècle de Tango - Paris Buenos Aires

Paris' 100 Years of Tango has suddenly caught the attention of Le Parisien, which devoted two pages to it in its edition today. According the their 'history,' the Tango was the original 'dirty dancing' - while decorously performed in the elegant cafés of the Grands Boulevards, the flics were on the lookout for it as it was - obscenely performed - in Montmartre cabarets.

Unlike disco, techno, rap - dancers actually touch each other; but there is a difference of opinion to the extent of this - so there are two distinct schools of tango. It probably takes very careful observation to tell the difference.

So-called 'modern-dancing' competitions, which sometimes run endlessly on TV, borrow something from tango and a lot from athletics. I for one, would like to see real tango, but I wouldbrochure: expo anish kapoor like to see it with sober camera-work - rather than the flash images which ape MTV music-clips.

These are different days and the tango itself may not be of prurient interest to anybody except millions of tango fanciers, but it is no less relevant because Paris is gripped in an increasing craze - no, mad delirium! - of Latin dancing. On 13. October, a new TV-cable channel started up as 'Solo Tango.'

The source for my original information wrote, "Many people may not be aware of the connections between Tango and Paris, or that Carlos Gardel - the 'Caruso' of tango - was born in Toulouse; immigrated with his mother at age four to Argentina, and returned in 'triumph' at the height of his career, to Paris."

Here is the fourth week's program, starting with Monday:

Monday, 26. October: at 20:30. This week of tango starts with 'Le Blues de Buenos Aires,' but according to the notes I have there is no address for the location. There will also be a poetry recital by Eve Griliquez, with the musician and singers of 'Loup du Faubourg .' Take a chance and phone the Espace Kiron, for information.
At the Espace Kiron, 10. rue de la Vacquerie, Paris 11. Métro: Voltaire. Info. Tel.: 01 44 64 11 50.

Tuesday, 27. October: from 19:00 to 22:00; Cinema-Gardel night: two fictional movies about Gardel, both in Spanish. 'Ecos del Silencio' by Pablo Rodriguez and 'El Dia Que Me Quieras' by Sergio Dow; both released in 1980.
At the Institut Finlandais, 60. rue des Ecoles, Paris 5. Info. Tel.: 0140 51 89 09.

Wednesday, 28. October: from 19:00 to 22:00; documentary cinema-Tango night: 'Tango Mio' by Jana Bokova is followed by a debate, 'Le Tango de Buenos Aires à Helsinki,' with the participation of Kimmo Pasanen, director of the Institut Finlandais, and Nardo Zalko and Juan Carlos Caceres. With extracts from films and from recordings of Finnish tango music.
At the Institut Finlandais, 60. rue des Ecoles, Paris 5. Info. Tel.: 0140 51 89 09.

Thursday, 29. October: at 21:00: Carlos Saura will be present the national pre-premiere showing of his new film, 'Tango.' Music is by Lalo Schiffrin and cinematography is by Victorio Storaro. This film was awarded a prize at this year's Cannes Festival. This evening, within the framework of 'Thursdays at the Institut Arabe,' is sponsored by the Mairie de Paris, together with the IMA. By invitation only.

Friday, 30. October: at 20:00; 'Le Bandonion' - liturgical music of the tango. Concert by Klaus Gutjar.
At the Goethe Institute, 17. avenue d'Iena, Paris 16. No entry charge. Info. Tel.: 01 44 43 92 30.

Saturday, 31. October: 20:30; 'Patio de Tango' is a dance spectacle with music, with Carmen and Victor. If hunger strikes, the menu is Argentinean and I assume this means beef and not salad.
At the Webbar, 32. rue de Picardie, Paris 3. Métro stop: either Temple or République.

Sunday, 1. November: at 20:30; showing of the film 'Tangos, Ecos del Silencio.'
For this one I have no location. Please call Claude Namer at 01 48 87 74 23 for information.

Next week's program starts with two nights of concerts, followed by a tango cabaret. A big date is Thursday, 5. November, with an evening called 'Airs Arabes de Tango' at the Institut du Monde Arabe. Phone 01 40 51 38 38 to order tickets. Saturday, 7. November will see 12 hours of non-stop tango at the Le Latina cinema, as a final send-off to this 35-day happy-toes event.

For more information, call Claude Namer at 01 48 87 74 23 or fax to: 01 48 87 66 50. Details of the last week of the program continue here next week.

Paris' Mois de la Photo - 10th Edition

This annual event kicks off late this month, starting with Edmond Bacot and Olivier Mériel's photos of Victor Hugo, which can be seen starting Tuesday, 27. October, at the Maison de Victor Hugo in the Place des Vosges. Two days later, 'Ceci est Paris' starts in the city's own home of cultural affairs, at their hôtel at 31. rue des Francs-Bourgeois in the fourth.

Altogether, during November there will be 79 photo exhibitions at 61 locations around Paris. This will not be entirely 'Paris-in-love- with-itself' - there will also be photos of old Moscow, and an exhibition of Soviet views of themselves from 1917 to 1981.

The Big Shows

Paris' L'Automne Italien

Paris' Italian autumn has already started, with Tiepolo in the Petit Palais - see this issue's 'Café' column - and with paintings by Tintoretto. Thirteen are on loan from Venice and the others from French collections. These are being displayed in the Salle des Fêtes in the Mairie of the 5th. At 21. place du Panthéon, Paris 5. Until Wednesday, 13. December. Open Monday to Saturday from 11:00 to 17:45 and on Sundays and holidays from 14:00 to 17:45. Info. Tel.: 01 43 29 21 75.

Gustave Moreau at the Grand Palais

Gustave Moreau has divided followers; those who admire his skill as a painter and fanatic of detail, often going brochure: moyen age, cluny over the border to kitsch; and those who admire his imagination, who see it as going over the border to surrealism.

You may not appreciate Moreau's versions of mythological subjects, but you have to admit he knew how to paint them. Before his death in 1891, he taught at the Beaux-Arts, and Matisse, Georges Rouault and Albert Marquet were among his students. As fanatically elaborate as he could be, he could also do swift and alive watercolors - for you to see nearly side-by-side with the paintings in this entertaining exhibition.

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais
Until 4. January 1999. Entry Clemencéau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Moreau donated his residence to the city or the state in 1897 and this began as the Musée Gustave Moreau in January 1903. In 1991 it was opened to the public, which has paid it scant attention. This museum-residence is at 14. rue de la Rochefoucauld, Paris 9. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 38 50.

Two Big Painters; Master and Student

They never met, except in this exhibition in the Musée d'Orsay, but Jean-François Millet, who lived from 1814 to 1875, had a big influence on Vincent Van Gogh, born in 1853, dead in 1890.

Lightning hit Van Gogh at an exhibition of Millet's designs and pastels in 1875, just a few months after the death of the latter. At the time, Van Gogh was hustling paintings for an art dealer - he didn't begin painting until 1880.

This exhibition places similar paintings by the two artists side-by-side for the viewer to draw obvious conclusions - of the inspirations Van Gogh drew from Millet; to finally gain his own identity - showing also how artists learn from each other. The comparisons do not lessen Van Gogh's stature; they undoubtedly increase that of the less well-known Millet.

This is one of the fall season's big shows, so all the business of making advance reservations applies. Entry charge: 40 francs, reduced: 30 francs. Catalogue: 190 francs.

Musée d'Orsay
1. rue de la Légion-d'Honneur, Paris 7. This exhibition continues until 3. January 1999. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00; on Sundays from 9:00 to 18:00 and on Thursdays until 21:45. Info. Tel.: 01 40 49 48 73.

Architectural Genius - François Mansart

Mansart, who was born 400 years ago, is not be confused with his grand-nephew who borrowed his name, nor with the style of roof, called 'mansard.'

brochure: moyen age, cluny He was, though, the architect responsible for Paris' Hôtel Guénégaud des Brosses, the Maison de Mansart, parts of the Hôtel Carnavalet, the Hôtel Tuberf-Palais Marazin, the Eglise du Val du Grace and the Hôtel de La Vrilliére, actual headquarters of the Banque de France.

Outside of Paris, the Château de Belleroy, the Château de Maisons and the Château de Blois, were designed by Mansart. This exhibition displays 40 original designs, some tools of the trade such as drawing tables, and photos of the buildings as they are today. There are also several models of his buildings.

This exhibition is assembled from items belonging to the Bibliothèque Nationale, Stockholm's National Museum, the graphic arts department of the Louvre and the National Archives, just around the corner.

Hôtel de Rohan
87. rue Vielle du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Hôtel de Ville or Saint-Sébastien Frossiart, or bus 29. The exhibition continues until Sunday, 17. January 1999. Except Mondays and holidays, open daily from 12:00 to 18:00. Info. Tel.: 01 40 27 62 18.

Remembering Cocktails

This is a poster exhibition, featuring a lot of the drinks you may wish you never heard of - and probably quite a few that are familiar to you. The posters are drawn from the Bibliothèque Forney's collection of 15,000, plus a few are borrowed from the Publicity Museum. Some date from the debut of the poster itself, in the 1880's, and go up to the 1960's.

While the posters present a sort of a social history - cocktails are good/bad for you! - they also display invention, fantasy and good feelings. Today's ads for water can do this too, but water itself can't, as hard as I try it to think it can.

Bibliothèque Forney
1. rue du Figuier, Paris 4. Métro: Pont Marie. This exhibition continues until Saturday, 5. December. Open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 13:30 to 20:00. Info. Tel.: 01 42 78 14 60.

Daylight On Hidden Art

This stuff - described as 'Laves Emaillées' - enameled washes? - was done for the Saint Vincent-de-Paul church in the 11th arrondissement by Jules Jollivet, at the end of the last century. Somehow the works were accepted and hung up, but the priests running the place told mothers to tell their daughters not to 'raise their eyes' to them.

So they were taken down and stored in a celler for 138 years. Now they are on display again. I haven't seen them myself yet, so I don't know what you should tell your daughters. To be seen in the restored atelier of Ary Scheffer, in this museum.

Musée de la Vie Romantique
16. rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Pigalle. Until Sunday, 17. January 1999. Except Mondays, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Traipsing Through Fancy Hotels

This year marks the 100th anniversary of the palace known locally as the Hotel Ritz. From 'Palais' to 'Palace' is the name of this exhibition about Paris' grand hotels, which really are 'hotels' and are sometimesbrochure: parc de bercy called 'palaces' - as opposed to 'hôtels' which are mere town-houses, but sometimes bigger that the 'palaces,' also-known-as 'ritzy hotels.'

The 19th century was characterized by a very few extremely rich people who made their money from industry or finance, and the remainder of mankind who were paid a dollar a day if they were paid at all.

Paris was popular with 'les riches' during the last round of the '90's and 13 of their favorite palaces are presented here, along with older grand 'hôtels,' transformed into commercial hotels. Documents on show include photos of banquets, menus, brochures and other souvenirs of an age we will not see again - not even if we can afford to stay at the Hotel Ritz today.

Musée Carnavalet - Historie de Paris
23. rue de Sévigne, Paris 3. Métro: Chemin-Vert, or bus 29. Until Sunday, 24. January 1999. Except Mondays, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

Rites et Festins de la Chine Antique

This is also known at 'Bronzes du Musée de Shanghai' - plus there is a mention that the museum where it is being shown is having its 100th anniversary. I do not know Chinese art objects at all, but judging from the length of this expo, these are important items that you would otherwise have to travel to Shanghai to see.

Musée Cernuschi
7. avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Until 10. January 1999. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. Métro: Villiers.


One word is enough for this exhibition of works by the painters and sculptors of central Africa. There are 240 pieces on display, many seen in public here for the first time; many coming from European collections.

Musée National des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie
293. avenue Daumesnil, Paris 12. Métro: porte Dorée. Until 4. January 1999. Open, except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 17:30; until 18:00 on weekends. Info. Tel.: 01 43 46 51 61.

Long-Run Events

Théâtres des Sens

This has already been open for many months now, but is probably still worth a visit, especially if it is raining as it seems to be doing all the time now.

If you think the French are pretty good at making fancy stuff for high prices, and you are either a dreamer or rich or have managed to keep from being beaten up in the market lately, then this is probably a real treat of an exhibition.

Les Quatre Théâtres des Sens
Palais de la Découverte, avenue Franklin-Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: Franklin-Roosevelt. This show runs until 3. January 1999. Open from Tuesday to Saturdays, from 9:30 to 18:00; on Sundays from 10:00 to 19:00. Info. Tel.: 01 40 74 89 00.

The Pompidou Centre - Where's Beaubourg?

The interior of this museum has been undergoing interior renovations since October 1987. Many of the museum's collections will be on view at other museums in Paris, at other cities in France and other countries - until the renovations are completed.

In front of the museum there is a tepee - see photo in this week's 'Au Bistro' column - which hasposter: salon de patrimoine information about the centre, presented in a multimedia form. The public library remains open at 11. rue Brantôme, just to the north of the museum. The south gallery will be showing 'Dijon/Le Consortium.Coli' in November and David Hockney arrives in January 1999. The Atelier Brancusi also remains open.

Musée d'Art Moderne

This Ville de Paris museum is showing a selection from Beaubourg, through to 19. September 1999. Currently, the 1920's are represented by Braque, Masson, Miro, Magritte, Ernst, Derain and Fautrier. In November a new cycle starts with Nouveau Realisme and Arte Povera.

Pierre Huyghe, Dominique Gonzalez-Foester and Philippe Parreno are young French artists whose works are also currently on display, until 29. November.

Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris
11; avenue du Président Wilson, Paris 16. Open Tuesdays to Friday from 10:00 to 17:30; Saturday and Sunday from 10:00 to 18:45. Special openings on 1. and 11. November. Info. Tel.: 01 53 40 00.

On the Boards - Théâtres:

The Théâtre de la Cité Internationale has a winter program which has already begun. Electre, by Hugo Hofmannsthal, directed by Michel Cerda, is playing now, until Friday, 20. November. This theatre has a dance program too, which begins on Saturday, 21. November. 'Carmen Linares' is a musical, which begins on Thursday, 3. December.

Théâtre de la Cité Internationale
21. boulevard Jourdan, Paris 14. Closest transit stop is Cité Universitaire on the RER line 'B.' For the full program, call Info. Tel.: 01 43 13 50 50.

On the Floor - Dancing:

The Théâtre de la Ville et des Abbesses is another municipal centre for the performing arts - theatre, dance, music, 'world music,' and singing - and its 1998-1999 season has a program of 87 events, for which I do not have a single detail, yet.

Théâtre de la Ville et des Abbesses
29. - 31. rue des Abbesses, Paris 18. Métro: Abbesses. Info. Tel.: 01 42 74 22 77.

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