Halloween Moves Inside

photo: cafe pic-clops
A warm and welcome-looking café, on the edge ofthe Marais.

Tango's Last Gasp in Paris

Paris:- Saturday, 31. October 1998:- According to the Le Parisien, Halloween is definitely 'breaking over' France. This may certainly be true, but it is raining cats and dogs tonight in the Paris region, so I don't think there is going to be much 'trick or treating' around these damp streets.

American-style bars and restaurants scattered around Paris have planned their usual big night for older kids, but I've never tried this out so I can't say what goes on - outside the usual - whatever it is; because I haven't tried it out lately either.

Le Parisien is absolutely certain that the whole thing is a marketing scheme cooked up in the United States, but is not against it for all that. French kids who have tried it, like it - show me kids who don't like dressing up in disguises and running around with plastic shopping sacks, trying to fill them up with candy.

Show me the costume merchants who don't like selling them the costumes. Show me the weatherman, who is washing the night out.

The Museums Invite You

The 8th edition of 'l'Invitation au Musée' has 'Le Musée, une Monde d'Images' as its theme this year; featuring everything photographic in the public collections, whether artistic or documentary. The audiovisual side is also on view as is the newer area known as 'multimedia.'

Starting Sunday, 8. November, with free entry to all 800 or more participating museums in France. The 'l'Invitation au Musée' program continues until Tuesday 22. November.

brochure: bibliotheque de parisBibliothèques de Paris - Extract:

In partnership with the Instituto Cervantes, Frederico Garcia Lorca will be celebrated with readings, recordings and film extracts on Saturday, 7. November, 15:00 at the Bibliothèque Buffon, 15 bis, rue Buffon, Paris 5. Info. Tel.: 01 45 87 12 27.

Galleries Louise Weiss

The modern art galleries grouped in the rue Louise Weiss, Paris 13, are again having a collection of exhibitions in concert. The current series continues until Saturday, 28. November, and they are generally open daily from 14:00 to 19:00, except for Mondays. The image here is named 'Jack en Lily' by Lily van der Stokker, and its home is with the Stedelijk Museum Bureau, Amsterdam. The inscription on the wall is "Lily en Jack wonen nu 10 jaar samen."

Suzuki Osamu

Recently named 'Living National Treasure,' this Japanese artist has been honored in Japan for reviving the 'Shino' ceramic tea-bowl tradition, which began near Nagoya in the 16th century.

Espace des Arts Mitsukoshi-Etoile, 3. rue de Tilsitt, Paris 8. Métro: Etoile. Until Saturday, 9. January; open daily except Sundays, from 10:00 to 18:00. Entry charge is 20 francs for adults. Info. Tel.: 01 44 09 11 11.

Salon for Philatelists

France's La Poste issues special stamps for Christmas and the end of the year, and these can be purchased and given a 'first-day frank' at the 52nd annual fall Salon Philatélique at the Espace Champerret. Alsostamp: croix-rouge 3f on hand will be dealers, collectors and a country of honor; and it is Ireland's turn this year.

'Philexfrance 99,' to be held from 2. to 11. July, of next year, will also have a stand at this salon.

It is likely that La Poste takes foreign orders. It offers information about its subscription service in English, German, Spanish and Italian, in addition to French. La Poste also accepts payments made with Visa or Mastercard.

52nd Salon Philatélique d'Automne
Espace Champerret, Paris 17. Métro: Porte de Champerret. Open 5, 6, 7. and 9. November, from 10:00 to 18:00. On Friday, 6. November, until 19:30. Free entry.

Paris' Mois de la Photo - 10th Edition

This annual event kicks off late this month, starting with Edmond Bacot and Olivier Mériel's photos of Victor Hugo, which can be seen starting Tuesday, 27. October, at the Maison de Victor Hugo in the Place des Vosges. Two days later, 'Ceci est Paris' starts in the city's own home of cultural affairs, at their hôtel at 31. rue des Francs-Bourgeois in the fourth.

Altogether, during November there will be 79 photo exhibitions at 61 locations around Paris. This will not be entirely 'Paris-in-love- with-itself' - there will also be photos of old Moscow, and an exhibition of soviet views of themselves from 1917 to 1981.

'Vincennes-Maillot' is a photo exhibition which retraces the building of the first métro line, 100 years ago. This collection was originally shown at the 1900 Universal Exposition, and the recently re-discovered photos have been restored. On view at the Pavillon de l'Arsenal until Sunday, 6. December. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 10:30 to 18:30 and on Sundays from 11:00 to 19:00. At 21. boulevard Morland, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland. No entry charge.

Other exhibitions are also to be seen at the Maison Européenne de la Photo, 5-7. rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 75 07.

Fourth 'Salon du Patrimoine'

This year's theme is sacred art and the religious patrimony. This seems to be a commercial show by the professionals of the restoration business. The 300 exhibitors can be seen daily from 10:00 to 19:00, from Thursday, 5. November to Sunday, 8. November. In the Carrousel du Louvre, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 49 53 27 00.

Giacometti, Richier, Gutfreund

Otherwise known as 'Bourdelle et Ses Elèves,' this show presents the works of some of Bourdelle's students; Alberto Giacometti, Germaine Richier and Otto Gutfreund. Bourdelle gave courses from 1909 until his death in 1929, at the Academie de la Grand Chaumière - Montparnasse's most famous art school in the '20's.

Musée Bourdelle
18. rue Antoine-Bourdelle, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. Starting Tuesday; until 7. February 1999. Open from 10:00 to 17:40 daily except Mondays. Info. Tel.: 01 49 54 73 73.

Un Siècle de Tango - Paris Buenos Aires

Paris' 100 Years of Tango is now into its last week, so of course this is when I finally have my hands on the official program. It is about as easy to figure out as the scrambled one I was using.

The friendly source for my original information wrote, "Many people may not be aware of the connections between Tango and Paris, or that Carlos Gardel - the 'Caruso' of tango - was born in Toulouse; immigrated with his mother at age four to Argentina, and returned in 'triumph' at the height of his career, to Paris."

Here is the fifth week's program, starting with Monday:

Monday, 2. November: at 20:30, concert by Sandra Rumolino and the trio composed of Nisinman, Maguna and Tormo. Maison de l'Amérique Latine, 217. boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino. Info. Tel.: 01 49 54 75 00.

Tuesday, 3. November: starting at 20:30, concert of tango-jazz by Pablo Nemirowsky's 'Tierra del Fuego' group. Restaurant-Caveau Kibélé, 12. rue d'Echiquier, Paris 10. Métro: Strasbourg-Saint-Denis. Info. Tel.: 01 48 24 57 74.

Wednesday, 4. November: at 20:30: cabaret-tango show built around the 'Instructions' de Cortazar, with Enzo Scala, Bianca Toledo, Pablo Nemirowsky on bandonion and flute, Daniel Diaz on basse and Shyamal Maitra handling the percussions. At the Restaurant-Caveau Kibélé, see address above.

Thursday, 5. November: starting at 19:00, the 'Airs Arabes de Tango.' The Moroccan Ambassador will be hosting cocktails and there will be an Egyptian musical-comedy film shown.

A concert of tango will be performed by the Lebanese singer, Mona Sakr. This will be followed by a demonstration of the 'Airs de Tango Arabe' by a couple of Argentinean dancers. To close, a concert of the Uruguayan Tango-Candombe-Milonga, with Xavier Legasa and the Comparsa Yorugua, who are the drummers of Rio de la Plata; with Yorugua and Balakatun. Hosts for the evening's entertainment: Miloud Mimoun and Yves Thoraval.

This evening is within the framework of 'Thursdays at the Institut Arabe,' at 1. rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard, Paris 5. Info. Tel.: 01 40 51 38 38.

Friday, 6. November: debate beginning at 18:30, about 'Tango and society,' with Nardo Zalko, Miguel Benassayag, Olver de Leon, Rafael Flores and Mme Luisa Futoransky. At the Universitie Paris IV - Institut d'Etudes Ibériques, 31. rue Gay-Lussac, Paris 5. Métro: near RER Luxembourg. Info. Tel.: 01 43 46 12 01.

Saturday, 7. November: from noon to midnight: 'Tango Non-Stop' will be accompanied by debates, films, dance exhibitions, photo exhibitions and food... at La Latina, 20. rue du Temple, Paris 4. Info. Tel.: 01 42 77 93 62. And this last event is final send-off to this five-week long, 35-day happy-toes event.

For more information, call Claude Namer at 01 48 87 74 23 or fax to: 01 48 87 66 50.

Batéké, Veilleurs du Monde and Et Voilà

'Batéké' is the word for this exhibition of regional works by the painters and sculptors of central Africa. There are 240 pieces on display, many seen in public here forbrochure: musee afrique et oceanie the first time; many coming from private European collections.

Photo: Veilleurs du Monde, from the Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie.

'Veilleurs du Monde' is another exhibition, running concurrently, presenting objects as art from a Benin atelier.

'Et Voilà' by Xavier Lucchesi, is a photo collection of the objects contained in the Musée National des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie.

Musée National des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie
293. avenue Daumesnil, Paris 12. Métro: porte Dorée. All three exhibitions are on until 4. January 1999. Open, except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 17:30; until 18:00 on weekends. Info. Tel.: 01 43 46 51 61.

The Big Shows

Paris' L'Automne Italien

Paris' Italian autumn has already started, with Tiepolo in the Petit Palais - see this issue's 'Café' column - and with paintings by Tintoretto. Thirteen are on loan from Venice and the others from French collections. These are being displayed in the Salle des Fêtes in the Mairie of the 5th. At 21. place du Panthéon, Paris 5. Until Wednesday, 13. December. Open Monday to Saturday from 11:00 to 17:45 and on Sundays and holidays from 14:00 to 17:45. Info. Tel.: 01 43 29 21 75.

Gustave Moreau at the Grand Palais

Gustave Moreau has divided followers; those who admire his skill as a painter and fanatic of detail, often going over the border to kitsch; and those who admire his imagination, who see it as going over the border to surrealism.

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais
Until 4. January 1999. Entry Clemencéau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Moreau donated his residence to the city or the state in 1897 and this began as the Musée Gustave Moreau in January 1903. In 1991 it was opened to the public, which has paid it scant attention. This museum-residence is at 14. rue de la Rochefoucauld, Paris 9. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 38 50.

Two Big Painters; Master and Student

They never met, except in this exhibition in the Musée d'Orsay, but Jean-François Millet, who lived from 1814 to 1875, had a big influence on Vincent Van Gogh, born in 1853, dead in 1890.

Lightning hit Van Gogh at an exhibition of Millet's designs and pastels in 1875, just a few months after the death ofbrochure: gal air de paris the latter. At the time, Van Gogh was hustling paintings for an art dealer - he didn't begin painting until 1880.

Gallery 'Air de Paris' painting, 'Jack en Lily.'

This exhibition places similar paintings by the two artists side-by-side for the viewer to draw obvious conclusions - of the inspirations Van Gogh drew from Millet; to finally gain his own identity - showing also how artists learn from each other. The comparisons do not lessen Van Gogh's stature; they undoubtedly increase that of the less well-known Millet.

This is one of the fall season's big shows, so all the business of making advance reservations applies. Entry charge: 40 francs, reduced: 30 francs. Catalogue: 190 francs.

Musée d'Orsay
1. rue de la Légion-d'Honneur, Paris 7. This exhibition continues until 3. January 1999. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00; on Sundays from 9:00 to 18:00 and on Thursdays until 21:45. Info. Tel.: 01 40 49 48 73.

Architectural Genius - François Mansart

Mansart, who was born 400 years ago, is not be confused with his grand-nephew who borrowed his name, nor with the style of roof, called 'mansard.'

He was, though, the architect responsible for Paris' Hôtel Guénégaud des Brosses, the Maison de Mansart, parts of the Hôtel Carnavalet, the Hôtel Tuberf-Palais Marazin, the Eglise du Val du Grace and the Hôtel de La Vrilliére, actual headquarters of the Banque de France.

The exhibition displays 40 original designs, some tools of the trade such as drawing tables, and photos of the buildings as they are today. There are also several models of his buildings.

This exhibition is assembled from items belonging to the Bibliothèque Nationale, Stockholm's National Museum, the graphic arts department of the Louvre and the National Archives, just around the corner.

Hôtel de Rohan
87. rue Vielle du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Hôtel de Ville or Saint-Sébastien Frossiart, or bus 29. The exhibition continues until Sunday, 17. January 1999. Except Mondays and holidays, open daily from 12:00 to 18:00. Info. Tel.: 01 40 27 62 18.

Remembering Cocktails

This is a poster exhibition, featuring a lot of the drinks you may wish you never heard of - and probably quite a few that are familiar to you. The posters are drawn from the Bibliothèque Forney's collection of 15,000, plus a few are borrowed from the Publicity Museum. Some date from the debut of the poster itself, in the 1880's, and go up to the 1960's.

While the posters present a sort of a social history - cocktails are good/bad for you! - they also display invention, fantasy and good feelings. Today's ads for water can do this too, but water itself can't, as hard as I try it to think it can.

Bibliothèque Forney
1. rue du Figuier, Paris 4. Métro: Pont Marie. This exhibition continues until Saturday, 5. December. Open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 13:30 to 20:00. Info. Tel.: 01 42 78 14 60.

Daylight On Hidden Art

This stuff - described as 'Laves Emaillées' - enameled washes? - was done for the Saint Vincent-de-Paul church in the 11th arrondissement by Jules Jollivet, at the end of the last century. Somehowbrochure: suzuki osamu the works were accepted and hung up, but the priests running the place told mothers to tell their daughters not to 'raise their eyes' to them.

'Shino' teapot by Suzuki Osamu at the Espace des Art Mitsukoshi-Etoile.

So the works were taken down and stored in a cellar for 138 years. Now they are on display again, but I don't know what you should tell your daughters. To be seen in the restored atelier of Ary Scheffer, in this museum.

Musée de la Vie Romantique
16. rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Pigalle. Until Sunday, 17. January 1999. Except Mondays, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Traipsing Through Fancy Hotels

This year marks the 100th anniversary of the palace known locally as the Hotel Ritz. From 'Palais' to 'Palace' is the name of this exhibition about Paris' grand hotels, which really are 'hotels' and are sometimes called 'palaces' - as opposed to 'hôtels' which are mere town-houses, but sometimes bigger that the 'palaces,' also-known-as 'ritzy hotels.'

Paris was popular with 'les riches' during the last round of the '90's and 13 of their favorite palaces are presented here, along with older grand 'hôtels,' transformed into commercial hotels. Documents on show include photos of banquets, menus, brochures and other souvenirs of an age we will not see again - not even if we can afford to stay at the Hotel Ritz today.

Musée Carnavalet - Historie de Paris
23. rue de Sévigne, Paris 3. Métro: Chemin-Vert, or bus 29. Until Sunday, 24. January 1999. Except Mondays, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

Rites et Festins de la Chine Antique

This is also known at 'Bronzes du Musée de Shanghai' - plus there is a mention that the museum where it is being shown is having its 100th anniversary. I do not know Chinese art objects at all, but judging from the length of this expo, these are important items that you might not even see if you travel to Shanghai.

Musée Cernuschi
7. avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Until 10. January 1999. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. Métro: Villiers.

Long-Run Events

Cluny - Musée National du Moyen Age

In addition to mentioning the opening of a new exhibition room - 'Les Hommes et Leur Cadre de Vie à la Fin du Moyen Age' - this is a general reminder for this museum. In addition to casual visits, the museum has a wide selection of guided visits, conferences and theme visits, for both individuals and groups. There are ateliers for kids as well.

Musée National du Moyen Age - Thermes and Hôtel de Cluny 6. place Paul-Painlevé, Paris 5. Métro: Cluny-La Sorbonne. Open daily except Tuesdays, from 9:15 to 17:15. Closed 25. December and 1. January 1999. Early closing at 16:00 on 23. December and 31. December. Best times for casual visits are between noon and 14:00 and after 15:30. The library is open until 18:00. Info. Tel.: 01 53 73 78 16.

Théâtres des Sens

This has already been open for many months now, but is probably still worth a visit, especially if it is raining harder than ever.

If you think the French are pretty good at making fancy stuff for high prices, and you are either a dreamer or rich or have managed to keep from being beaten up in the market lately, then this is probably a real treat of an exhibition.

Les Quatre Théâtres des Sens
Palais de la Découverte, avenue Franklin-Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: Franklin-Roosevelt. This show runs until 3. January 1999. Open from Tuesday to Saturdays, from 9:30 to 18:00; on Sundays from 10:00 to 19:00. Info. Tel.: 01 40 74 89 00.

The Pompidou Centre - Here's Beaubourg:

The interior of this museum has been undergoing interior renovations since October 1987. Many of the museum's collections will be on view at other museums in Paris, at other cities in France and other countries - until the renovations are completed.

In front of the museum there is a tepee, which has information about the centre, presented in a multimedia form. The public library remains open at 11. rue Brantôme, just to the north of the museum. The south gallery will be showing 'Dijon/Le Consortium.Coli' in November and David Hockney arrives in January 1999. The Atelier Brancusi also remains open.

Musée d'Art Moderne

This Ville de Paris museum is showing a selection from Beaubourg, through to 19. September 1999. Currently, the 1920's are represented by Braque, Masson, Miro, Magritte, Ernst, Derain and Fautrier. In November a new cycle starts with Nouveau Realisme and Arte Povera.

Pierre Huyghe, Dominique Gonzalez-Foester and Philippe Parreno are young French artists whose works are also currently on display, until 29. November.

Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris
11; avenue du Président Wilson, Paris 16. Open Tuesdays to Friday from 10:00 to 17:30; Saturday and Sunday from 10:00 to 18:45. Special openings on 1. and 11. November. Info. Tel.: 01 53 40 00.

On the Boards - Théâtres:

The Théâtre de la Cité Internationale has a winter program which has already begun. Electre, by Hugo Hofmannsthal, directed by Michel Cerda, is playing now, until Friday, 20. November. This theatre has a dance program too, which begins on Saturday, 21. November. 'Carmen Linares' is a musical, which begins on Thursday, 3. December.

Théâtre de la Cité Internationale
21. boulevard Jourdan, Paris 14. Closest transit stop is Cité Universitaire on the RER line 'B.' For the full program, call Info. Tel.: 01 43 13 50 50.

Islands of Dances '98

brochure: iles de danses 98'Iles de Danses 98' refers to the whole Ile-de-France dance and ballet program for this fall season. It has already started, but 104 shows are planned at 51 locations around the Ile-de-France; and the show goes on until Sunday, 6. December. Take your pick of neo-classic, jazz, contemporary, oriental or hip-hop. Hip-hop?

Ile-de-France, Opéra et Ballet
Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 91 15.

On the Floor - Dancing:

The Théâtre de la Ville et des Abbesses is another municipal centre for the performing arts - theatre, dance, music, 'world music,' and singing - and its 1998-1999 season has a program of 87 events.

Théâtre de la Ville et des Abbesses
29. - 31. rue des Abbesses, Paris 18. Métro: Abbesses. Info. Tel.: 01 42 74 22 77.

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