The End of 'Humbug'

photo: cafe le thiers
A local café - a one-stop leisure and necessities centre.

Life After This Column

by Ric Erickson

Paris:- Monday, 7. December 1998:- Although a 'humbug' person to the roots, I am finding that this Christmas season is taking a hold on me. More than, say, Halloween or National Teewit Day.

Doing the 'Christmas Program' in each issue is a pain and a trial, probably because it started in November right after National Teewit Day. But now in December, sources are pouring in floods of information and slickly-printed brochures to my 'in' box, and I am having trouble sorting out what should be going onto that page, and before long I will be sticking New Years' items there too.

What is happening, is that Christmas items are overflowing into the 'Scene' column and even into this 'Café' column - which is supposed to be reserved for musings and expressions of 'thought.' Like the ones I might have if I were spending some time on a comfortable café terrace in front of an inspiring view.

Reality is - I only imagine I am sitting on one of these terraces, whiling away a relaxed afternoon or early evening. Let's see; there are a couple of hundred or half a thousand superior terraces in Paris, out of a total of several thousand in all.

If I ever got the time to sit on one long enough to 'muse' or have two consecutive 'thoughts,' I'd never get the time to write this. This morning I 'wrote' this column in my head; and I was really flying with some good 'thoughts' for it.

However, I was doing this while getting breakfast for myself, sorting out two boys and their school bags, and coats, and gloves and looking for their caps, as well as remembering to pick up the car's keys.

A flying drop put one at one school and then we drove through the village and up a complicated two-laner hill to another village, past parked cars and runaway buses, into a pedestrian lane. With a reverso parking manoeuvre, we got set to wait for the other carpool kids and their bigger bags.

All in, we then flashed along a sometimes two-laner, across the ridge, downphoto: xmas trees, st germain a very steep one-and-a-half lane hill; dodged past the road construction units, through the village again and up to the winding and climbing forest road and across the hump of a higher ridge to a third village.

Scrooge says, give a tree near you a warm living room.

This school's parking lot is pot-holed and public, so there are large buses and huge dumptrucks in it, along with about 50 van-lady drivers, all trying to dump their loads of kids at the same time. My kids bail out and I get out of there against the late incoming vans, and roll up and over the hump to the first village, where I stop to buy the papers.

After putting the car away - reminding myself again that I must get the speedo fixed one of these days - after collecting the kid's clothes for the laundry, and pouring a cup of café, I start writing this.

Without one of the original 'thoughts' left.

My terrace is right outside my kitchen window, but it has no tables and chairs and is not heated like many in Paris, and it has no service. Finally, it does not have a 'superior' view of any kind - although it does have more view in winter than in summer, due to leafless trees.

So I imagine I am on a favorite café terrace and I imagine I am 'musing' and having 'thoughts' - but it does not work really well. So I write this column like this one.

Shop - Supermarket - Hypermarché!

Linda Thalman is enthusiastic. Last week she went to a 'hypermarché' - the name for a jumbo supermarket in France - and liked the experience so much, that she sat down and wrote about it at 23:00 the same night; and sent the story to me.

I don't like hypermarchés. They are far too big, too impersonal and just plain too much. Thephoto: utrillo, pto window reason for having Linda's account of a visit to one is in this issue is simple: she enjoyed the hypermarché and she wants you to know about them.

The Paris Tourist Office is currently boosting Utrillo.

Her story got slated for this week's issue before I ended up at an open-air marché myself at the end of the week. I didn't know what I was going to write about until I sat down and wrote it. The two types of shopping in France are as opposite as it is possible to get.

While shopping in warehouses is not particularly novel, the biggest difference of an open-air marché is the attitude of the people who work them.

Imagine today, when the government is trying to set a 35-hour work week as a national norm - there are people who get up in the middle of the night, who put up their shops and take them down again, and do it outside in all weathers and on Sundays too.

On top of it, there are customers enough for this to continue to exist. They still have the time for it. This is not only in France of course; but perhaps here is one of the countries where there are also hypermarchés.

A final word: a hypermarché is not a shopping mall. Some of them may be located within a mall, but a hypermarché is really a 'general store,' ballooned up all out of proportion. Unlike a general store, no hypermarché has anybody to get anything off a shelf for you.

In Tocqueville This Week:

The Tocqueville Connection's 'French Style' takes a look at a comic book version of Marcel Proust's 'A la Recherche du Temps Perdu,' re-titled as 'Combray,' which is currently selling better than the original version. The author, Stéphan Heuet, repackaged the dense work in order to settle an argument with his wife.

The museum has been co-founded by the Ministry of Culture and the Ville de Paris. On show at the museum are works by Picasso, Chagall, Modigliani, Matisse and Leger as well as collections from the Musée d'Art Juif and the Strauss-Rothschild collection - as well as extensive historical archives.

Until December 1999: an exhibition of photos from the Magnum Agency, about post-war Jewish communities. On Saturday, 12 and Monday, 14. December; concerts given by Chava Albertstein, an Israeli singer.

Tocqueville also has some background about the opening of the new 'Musée d'Art et l'Histoire du Judaïsme' in Paris.The museum officially opened yesterday and its hours are from Monday to Friday from 11:00 to 18:00, and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00.

Musée d'Art et l'Histoire du Judaïsme
Hôtel Saint-Aignan, 71. rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 86 53. Entry: 40 francs, reduced: 25 francs.

23rd Paris International Marathon

The Marathon International de Paris - to be run on Sunday, 4. April 1999 - is now taking inscriptions. When I checked the Web site last week, it said it was 'under construction.'

To register for the Marathon, I have only a fax number at this time: it is 33 -1 41 33 15 69. The namebrochure: paris semi marathon and address is Athletisme Organisation SA, BP 182, 92135 Issy-les-Moulineaux, France. If necessary, I will scan the registration form and email a copy to anyone who requests it.

Inscriptions made before 15. January 1999 cost 190 francs for residents and 250 francs or US$45 or 75 DM for visitors.

After the date above, from 18. January to 19. March, the rates rise to 250 francs for residents, and to 370 francs - US$75, 115 DM - for visitors. The rates for signing up after 19. March are quite a bit higher and entries are limited to 25,000. If you wait and the quota is full on the sign-up deadline, you'll be out of luck.

if this big-time stuff is not your beat, there is also a Semi-Marathon; which will be run in Paris on Sunday, 7. March 1999. Take your pick.

Some URLs for French Web Surfing:

Find out more about Web sites having something to do with Paris by trying - a new? - 'portal-entry' site, called 'Paris-Web.' From what I saw, this is a recent start-up. I'll give it a trial too, to find out what's going on.

If you feel any urge to do some heavy Web-surfing, try it on Sunday, 13. December. After the Spanish and Italian surfers held 'strikes' to try and convince their national telephone services to lower line rates, there has been a call for a boycott in France too. France Télécom's reaction so far: ho-hum.

In case all the stuff you see here about Paris is driving you around some bend or other, why not check out the latest news from Brittany? The 'Hebdo de la Bretagne' is a real newsmagazine called 'Britia' and all of it I saw was in French. If you care to look deeper, I wouldn't be surprised to learn it has some content in Gaelic, which might interest any of Metropole's Irish readers.

How about a bit of musical composition online? About 300 French musicians are plugging in daily to Cubase's 'Virtual Studio Technology' and they are busy writing musical bits and sending them to each other, using the MP3 format. It's a big site with a lot of activity, and a lot of mutual collaboration. Since it is music, language may not be a problem.

Short of ideas for Christmas gifts? Here's a chance to pick up some French vocabulary and at the same time get ideas about what the French want for the big day. Even if you don't know anybody in France, you can leave your own 'wish list' and hope somebody who knows you will do something about it.

This Was Metropole One Year Ago:

Issue 2.49 - 8. December 1997 - Thiscount down Eiffel Tower issue featured the columns - Café Metropole - 'My Development Is Over' and 'Au Bistro' had - 'General Winter Pays Paris Brief Visit.' The issue had only one feature article, entitled 'Noël 1997 - Opera, Ballet, Theatre, Concerts and Events,' which was a lesser version of this years' 'Program' series. There were two 'Posters of the Week' again and Ric's Cartoon of the Week was subtitled, 'Little Gifts,' which might have been about anything but probably wasn't.

The Tour Eiffel Countdown to 31. December 1999:

Only 390 days and days left to go.

Regards, Ric
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contents to: Ric Erickson, Editor.
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