Scene - Goya in Lille

photo: ponies in tuileries
Here is the weather, here are the ponies; where are the kids?

Fresh Paint At the Marine Museum

Paris:- Saturday, 19. December 1998:- For a pleasant museum full of many wonders, the Musée de la Marine at Trocadéro is almost exceedingly discrete. At this time of year, I have little reason to ride through the métro there and less reason to get out. But, this is where the exhibition poster probably is.

For the 36th time, the Musée de la Marine is presenting its ever-growing collection of marine paintings. Many of these are done by 'official' navy painters, but the exhibition also shows works by independent artists.

This year, homage is paid to two departed official painters: Jean Cluseau-Lanauve and Jacques Bouyssou. Except for Tuesdays, open daily from 10:00 to 17:50. Musée de la Marine, Palais de Chaillot, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro.

Goya In Lille - This is a bit out of town but I can't pass up mentioning any Francisco de Goya exhibition. The showposter: goya in lille is subtitled 'Un Regard Libre' and you can see it until Sunday, 14. March. fnac and the SNCF have joined ticketing forces to make the visit fairly easy.

There's a promo transit rate, starting at 129 francs, for TGV first class, so that's 258 for a round-trip. It takes 60 minutes one-way and there's a train from Gare du Nord every half hour. In Lille, look for the Palais des Beaux-Arts, which is at the place de la République. Info. Tel.: 03 20 06 78 00. Lille itself offers a combo price for the exhibition and lodging.

Just outside town, 'L'Envers du Décor' is at the Musée d'Art Moderne until Sunday, 21. February. Open daily except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 18:00. Take the métro line 1 to 'Pont de Bois' and then the 41 bus to the Parc Urbain-Musée.

Uh-Oh, One a Them Cherry Moon Parties - I don't know if this has happened before, but this is the Cherry Moon Party's 1998 edition, and it happens a bit out of town too - at theposter: cherrymoon Château de Chaalis, which is a royal abbey out in the sticks someplace where you can make a lot of noise.

This party starts at 22:00 on Thursday, 31. December and continues until the following year. Tariff is 250 francs, plus transport - and you are supposed to dress good. There will be things like DJ Noise-DJMA*DA, New Jack, Hip Hop, Groove and R'n'B. Whatever this is, dress right for it.

For people made wobbly by directions, there is a free shuttle bus running from Porte de la Chapelle, from 21:30 to midnight, one-way. If you can drive, take the A1 in the direction of the North Pole, and take the sortie number seven, named Saint Witz-Ermenonville - no joke! - and look around in the dark for a château across from a 'Mer de Sable.' Good luck!

Portable Globalization - is what you can get from the IGN for only 179 francs, and up. France's national Geographic Institute has a boutique just off the Champs-Elysées, called Espace IGN, and it has some interesting articles for sale - including globes of various sizes and countries.

If you can find a card version of the illustration on this page, take it with you to get 20 percent off the price of any IGN product. Espace IGN, 107. rue la Boétie, Paris 8. Métro: Franklin-Roosevelt. Open Monday to Friday from 9:30 to 19:00. On Saturday, the shop takes a lunch break from 12:30 to 14:00.

Le Misanthrope - by Molière is playing at the Maison des Cultures du Monde, adapted and directed by Dominique Houdart, with Hubert Jappelle, Jeanne Heuclin and Catherine Larue. Until Thursday, 28. January, this show is on from Tuesday to Saturday, at 21:00.

At the same location, the Padox Café-Concert, featuring Jeanne Heuclin singing Yvette Guilbert and the Commune de Paris. This takes place Friday and Saturday at 19:00 and on Sundays at 12:00. The Maison des Cultures du Monde, 101. boulevard Raspail, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame des Champs. Info. Tel.: 01 45 44 41 42.

Café de la Danse - This is a new name for me and I don't have much information for it. A theatre piece, 'La Double Inconstance' is currently playing until Wednesday, 30. December, at 20:30. Café de la Danse, 5. passage Louis-Philippe, Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. The 'Café' is located between the rue de Lappe and the passage Thiéré. Starting on 6. January, the 'Belles Nuits du Ramadan' takes off. Info. Tel.: 01 48 87 50 50.

Nel Haroun, Café Oriental, 1920

Here's the story: it turns around the mysterious person of Nel Haroun, and the time is the 'Années Folles' - when Parisian cabarets were sometimes more like the caverns of Ali Baba - and this original musical seeks to recreate the orientalism that was so popular at the time.

Dancers, jugglers, actors and singers; about 20 in all, perform the original idea of Mayodi, under the direction of Pierre Mechanick. Attention: this piece includes belly dancing and if you are a fan of this, it shouldn't be missed.

Divan du Monde, 75. rue des Martyrs, Paris 18. The current run lasts until Wednesday, 30. December and then it returns for a second round from Tuesday, 5. January until Thursday, 14. January. Métro: Pigalle or Abbesses. Info. Tel.: 01 49 87 50 50.

The 'Cultural' Non-Strike Non-News

As far as I can tell, nobody is on strike at any museums in Paris this week. It is also possible that there are no other strikes either, but this notion is so unlikely that I hesitate to put it forward.

23rd Paris International Marathon

The Marathon International de Paris - to be run on Sunday, 4. April 1999 - is now taking inscriptions. When I checked the Web site last week, it said it was 'under construction.'

To register for the Marathon, I have only a fax number at this time: it is 33 -1 41 33 15 69. The name andposter: misanthrope address is Athletisme Organisation SA, BP 182, 92135 Issy-les-Moulineaux, France. If necessary, I will scan the registration form and email a copy to anyone who requests it.

Inscriptions made before 15. January 1999 cost 190 francs for residents and 250 francs or US$45 or 75 DM for visitors.

After the date above, from 18. January to 19. March, the rates rise to 250 francs for residents, and to 370 francs - US$75, 115 DM - for visitors. The rates for signing up after 19. March are quite a bit higher and entries are limited to 25,000. If you wait and the quota is full on the sign-up deadline, you'll be out of luck.

if this big-time stuff is not your beat, there is also a Semi-Marathon; which will be run in Paris on Sunday, 7. March 1999. Take your pick.

Tropiques Métis - It is difficult to tell whether France belongs it its former colonies or the other way around; for they are very much present in everyday life. Guadeloupe, Guyane, Martinique and Réunion export not only people to France, but music, art, folklore, lifestyle and food too.

There are also a series of concerts, held in the auditorium of the museum, including a 'Chanté Noël' on Tuesday, 23. December, from 14:00 to 16:00, and this will be followed by a film, 'Les Avants de Noël.' There is a program of plays and Carnaval workshops for the young, on Wednesdays in January and March.

Toss in a bit - 400 years - of history, and you can find it all in one place until 12. April, at the Musée des Arts et Traditions Populaires. 6. avenue du Mahatma Gandhi, Paris 6. This is inside the Jardin d'Acclimatation. Métro: Sablons, in Neuilly, plus a seven-minute walk. Open daily except Tuesday, from 9:30 to 17:15. Info. Tel.: 01 44 17 60 00.

Glaz'Art Goes Up-Market

First off, Glaz'Art has moved its publicity from photocopies to printed posters, and it now has a program of sorts. 'Boris et les Quincaillers' and 'Nery' launch the festival 'Latcho-Drom,' starting on Wednesday, 16 December and continuing until Christmas Day.

By the way; this is Paris' Afro-Funk-Techno-World-Rock and very live and loud. At Glaz'Art, 7 to 15. avenue de la Porte de la Villette, Paris 19. Entries are 50 to 70 francs. Métro: Porte de la Villette. Rare free parking! Info. Tel.: 01 40 36 55 65.

Russian Icons - Russian soul, from the collection of the Kolomiensky Museum in Moscow; featuring about 50 icons and other items on view outside Russia for the first time. An added attraction of this exhibition is that it is located on the top of the Grande Arche at La Défense, and the entry price of 60 francs includes the elevator ride up to the top. Open daily from 10:00 to 18:00, until 31. January. Métro and RER: Grande Arche de la Défense. The view is free.

La Poste Launches Its First 'Euro' Stamp - Starting in January, La Poste will launch its first three-franc 'Euro' stamp. The co-existing 'Euro' price of the stampposter: philinfo poste will be whatever the 'Euro's' rate is for the day it is printed. As this rate will fluctuate like any other currency, this will be a stamp with its own historical 'postmark.'

For philatelists, this is a big event. Other countries within the 'Euro'-block will be putting out their new stamps too - during the two-year changeover period. France's number one will have 500 million issued, but its 'Euro'-value will only exist once. This stamp can only be used for postage within France, or from France to other countries - not from other countries to France.

'La Poste's' services for philatelists are accessible by the Web to interested collectors. Although it is not explicit that La Poste takes foreign orders, it does offer information about its subscription service in English, German, Spanish and Italian, in addition to French. La Poste also accepts payments made with Visa or Mastercard.

Galleries Louise Weiss - The modern art galleries grouped in the rue Louise Weiss, Paris 13, are planning a new collection of exhibitions. The new series runs through to Saturday, 23. January - with a break from 24. December to 4. January for hols. Opening hours are usually from 14:00 to 19:00 daily, except for all of them being closed on Mondays. All galleries: métro Chevaleret.

Paris' Mois de la Photo - 10th Edition

This annual 'one-month' event kicked off late in October and is continuing well into the new year. It started with Edmond Bacot and Olivier Mériel's photos of Victor Hugo, which can be seen at the Maison de Victor Hugo in the Place des Vosges, until 24. January 1999.

'Personne n'a Vu Tout' - Anders Peterson has been taking photos a long time and is present for Paris' Mois de la Photo, with what may be some disturbing images - of psychiatric patients. Exhibitionposter: ign globe at the Centre Cultural Suédois, 11. rue Payenne, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin-Vert. Open Tuesday to Friday from 14:00 to 18:00, Saturday and Sunday from 14:00 to 19:00; until Sunday, 3. January. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 80 20.

'Paris, Ici et Là - le Paris des Quartiers' - An exhibition, mostly of photos, of Paris and its 'quarters' - which some have likened to 100 villages. With this show, you get to see a lot of Paris away from the main sights, and get to see them in the comfort of the Hôtel de Ville's reception office.

The 'Paris des Quartiers' exhibition continues until Saturday, 16. January and is open from 9:30 to 18:30 except on Sundays and holidays. At 29. rue de Rivoli, Paris 4. No entry charge.

Altogether, during November and continuing into December there will be 79 photo exhibitions at 61 locations around Paris. This will not be entirely 'Paris-in-love- with-itself' - there will also be photos of old Moscow - until 14. February - and an exhibition of soviet views of themselves from 1917 to 1981.

There are too many individual events and locations for them to list here. Luckily we have the Web and the Mois de la Photo has its own site, where there should be a complete program.

If you are in Paris, some of the contents of the Web site above can been seen hanging on walls at the Maison Européenne de la Photo, 5-7. rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 75 07.

Another Photo-Web sites worth a visit is Centre National de la Photo, which is located in the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, 11. rue Berryer, Paris 8. Info. Tel.: 01 53 76 12 32.

Paris' Overwhelming 'Scene'

Each week sees new items added to this feature, and it gets longer and longer. Rather than drop items, many of which run until early next year, their headlines are retained in this issue.

For more details about the above, please see the 'Scene' columns in issues 3.50, 3.49, 3.48, 3.47 and 3.46, then return here.

Sauver Assise! - at the Musée du Petit Palais until 14. February.

Early Picasso - 1901 to 1909 - The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City has lent the Picasso museum in Paris ten paintings and 15 designs - to which are added 20 designs from this museum, to make a complete Picasso exhibition. Musée Picasso, Hôtel de Salé, 5. rue Thorigny, Paris 3. On view until Monday, 25. January. Info. Tel.: 01 42 71 25 21.

Two Big Painters; Millet and Van Gogh - At the Musée d'Orsay, until Sunday, 3. January.

Issey Miyake: - the pioneer of 'métissage,' but otherwise known as one of the most inventive clothing designers we have at the end of this century. Until 17. January.

L'Idiot - Fyodor Mikhailovich Dostoyevsky wrote to his niece in 1869 to say he thought this story might be a total failure - with a near seven-week run booked for it, it looks like the producers think otherwise. At the Théâtre 14 J. M. Serrea until Sunday, 10. January.

Gustave Moreau and Lorenzo Lotto - Exhibitions at the Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais - until Monday, 4. January and 11. January 1999.

Lydie Arickx: - has an exhibition which can be seen at the Convent des Cordeliers until Sunday, 10. January.

Jacques Offenbach's 'Monsieur Choufleuri - Mesdames de la Halle' is playing at the Centre Culturel de Boulogne-Billancourt until Sunday, 20. December..

Pierre Mantra - has an exhibition at the Galerie Selmersheim until Thursday, 31. December.

Cashemires Parisiens: - Because Josephine liked to wear cashmere shawls, you might like to know more about their manufacture and history. Exhibition at the Musée Galliera - Musée de la Mode et du Costume de la Ville de Paris. Final day is 28. February 1999.

Le Passé Recomposé: - An exhibition of multimedia projects, which show the re-constituted past - that is, the historic past. At the Trianon de Bagatelle, until Sunday, 10. January.

Giacometti, Richier, Gutfreund: - Exhibition 'Bourdelle et Ses Elèves,' at the Musée Bourdelle until 7. February.

Architectural Genius - François Mansart - Exhibition at the Hôtel de Rohan, until Sunday, 17. January 1999.

Sur les Quais: - This exhibition, shows the Seine quai's history, and their actual state as well as urban plans for the future. At the Pavillon de l'Arsenal.

Suzuki Osamu: - Exhibition at the Espace des Arts Mitsukoshi-Etoile. Until Saturday, 9. January.

Laves Emaillées: - Exhibition in the atelier of Ary Scheffer, at the Musée de la Vie Romantique, until Sunday, 17. January.

Traipsing Through Fancy Hotels - From 'Palais' to 'Palace' is the name of this exhibition about Paris' grand hotels, which is in the Musée Carnavalet, until Sunday, 24. January.

Rites et Festins de la Chine Antique:- are the 'Bronzes du Musée de Shanghai, at the Musée Cernuschi, until Sunday, 10. January.

Mémoire d'Empire: - the 'Trésors du Musée National du Palais, Taipei' is an exhibition at the Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais, until Monday, 25. January.

Les Quatre Théâtres des Sens - Palais de la Découverte, until Sunday, 3. January.

For more details about the above, please see the 'Scene' columns in issues 3.50, 3.49, 3.48, 3.47 and 3.46, then return here.

Cluny - Musée National du Moyen Age - Thermes and Hôtel de Cluny at 6. place Paul-Painlevé, Paris 5. Métro: Cluny-La Sorbonne. Open daily except Tuesdays, from 9:15 to 17:15. Closed 25. December and 1. January 1999. Early closing at 16:00 on 23. December and 31. December. Best times for casual visits are between noon and 14:00 and after 15:30. The library is open until 18:00. Info. Tel.: 01 53 73 78 16.

Paris' Art Deco museum, is the Musée des Arts Décoratifs - at 107. rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal or Tuileries. Entry for disabled persons is at 105. rue de Rivoli. Except Mondays, open from 11:00 to 18:00; onposter: cafe de la danse Wednesdays to 21:00. On weekends, opens at 10:00. Info. Tel.: 01 44 55 57 50. The Musée de la Mode et Textile and the Musée de la Publicité is at the same location..

Poster for the Café de la Danse.

The Artdéco museum has a branch office at the Musée Nissim de Camondo, at 53. rue de Monceau, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers or Monceau. Info. Tel.: 01 53 89 06 50. Open from Wednesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 17:00.

The Pompidou Centre - Also Known as Beaubourg: - The interior of this museum has been undergoing interior renovations since October 1987. Many of the museum's collections will be on view at other museums in Paris, at other cities in France and other countries - until the renovations are completed.

In front of the museum there is a tepee, which has information about the centre, presented in a multimedia form. The public library remains open at 11. rue Brantôme, just to the north of the museum. David Hockney arrives in January 1999. The Atelier Brancusi also remains open.

Musée d'Art Moderne - This Ville de Paris museum is showing a selection from Beaubourg, through to 19. September 1999. Currently, the 1920's are represented by Braque, Masson, Miro, Magritte, Ernst, Derain and Fautrier. In November a new cycle starts with Nouveau Realisme and Arte Povera. Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris,11. avenue du Président Wilson, Paris 16. Open Tuesdays to Friday from 10:00 to 17:30; Saturday and Sunday from 10:00 to 18:45. Info. Tel.: 01 53 40 00.

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