Scene - Life After New Year's

photo: tour eiffel on 01 jan 99, 365 days
Once and once only: 365 days until the year 2000.
Yesterday at Trocadéro.

Before Spring, More of the Fall-Winter Season

Paris:- Saturday, 2. January 1999:- What is left of the fall season in Paris plays on. Before long it will be folded up and then the new season will unfold - but until then, there is plenty. And there are one or two new items here as well.

To get really long-term, I take this opportunity to bring to your attention the eclipse of the sun by the moon, scheduled to take place on Wednesday, 11. August, between 12:16 and 12:32. In Rouen and Reims and 4,998 other towns and villages, it will be total; in Paris only 90 percent.

Baring dense clouds, this will be very visible - or is it nearly invisible? - in the Paris region; something which has not occurred since 1724 when Louis XV was a young lad of 14. Still undecided? The next eclipse is programmed for 2081. If eclipses are your bag, book your flight today!

A New Museum in Montparnasse

Billed as Paris' newest museum, I found a brochure for the Musée du Montparnasse at thebrochure: musee montparnasse - foujita office of the Syndicate d'Initative on Montmartre. So it should be so - they are related; by artists.

You can't miss Montparnasse because it has this insanely ugly, very high, brown tower; underneath which runs the Avenue du Maine. On the west side, there is the Musée Bourdelle, and across the avenue, with the entry at 21. Avenue du Maine, is the new museum.

If I remember correctly, this is in an artist's and artisan's cul-de-sac full of old ateliers, and possibly a place Foujita visited often. The exhibition is called 'From Foujita to Kuroda,' or the Japanese in Montparnasse. This current show continues until Sunday, 21. February.

Open daily except Mondays and Tuesdays, from 13:00 to 19:00. Entry: 20 francs. Métro: Montparnasse, and all the 90-series buses, plus the 28, 58 and 89. Info. Tel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

A Couple of Christmas Left-Overs; But Not Turkeys

Rembrandt et Amsterdam in Paris - Gathered together from 18 separate collections, this Rembrandt exhibition features 51 drawings and watercolors, done of street and canal scenes in Amsterdam and the dunes near Haarlem. Most of the works are quickly done sketches and show another angle to Rembrandt; that of the on-the-scene 'reporter.'

Rembrandt et Amsterdam, at the Institut Néerlandais, 121. rue de Lille, Paris 7. Métro: Assemblée Nationale. Except Mondays, daily from 13:00 to 19:00, until 14. February.

Passions Pasquier - or 'Point et Countrepoints' is an exhibition at Paris' mint about which I know nothing. This is a place to keep an eye on, because soon - someday - these people will be minting 'Euros.' At the Hôtel de la Monnaie, 11. Quai de Conti, Paris 6. This exhibition continues until Sunday, 31. January; daily except Mondays from 11:00 to 17:30.

L'Antre Magique - is the 'first Magic theatre forposter: 'l'antree magique' enfants' where card tricks are shown with 'nothing up the sleeves' because the little dears don't have any. This has been dreamed up by Christian Gambin.

There are afternoon sessions from 14:30 to 16:00 and 'Soirées Fantastiques' at 20:30 on Fridays and Saturdays. Afternoons are on Wednesday, Saturday, Sundays and holidays. L'Antre Magique, 50. rue Saint-Georges, Paris 9. Metro: Notre-Dame de Lorette. Info. Tel.: 01 39 15 84 48.

Don't Forget Versailles - Louis- Philippe asked Eugène Delacroix for three works to put into the historical gallery in the Musée de Versailles, and two of the paintings are now supposed to be masterpieces: 'La Bataille de Taillebourg' and the 'Entrée des Croises à Constantinople.' In addition to these, there are other Delacroix' sketches and engravings on show at the Château de Versailles, until Sunday, 17. January, from 9:00 to 17:30 except on Mondays.

Two Rudolf Nureyevs or None - Although a bit misleading, there's nothing better than to celebrate the beginning of new year than with two ballets choreographed by Rudolf Nureyev.

'La Bayadère' is at the new Opéra Bastille and 'Don Quichotte' is at the splendid Opéra Garnier, which everybody simply calls, 'the Opéra.' The first, until Sunday, 16. January and the second, until Friday, 15. January.
Opéra Bastille and Opéra Garnier; just one Info. Tel.: 08 36 69 78 68. Métros: Opéra and Bastille.

And the Circuses of Course:

Alexis Gruss - is Gruss senior and he goes for 'classic' circus, elegant circus, circus with non-stop costumes and the main acts are done by dancing horses and lesser acts have lots of trained animals too. Until Sunday, 7. March; on the Pelouse de Madrid, in the Bois de Boulogne. Métro: Info. Tel.: 01 44 17 96 22.

Trapeze At Villette - The 'Arts Sauts Company' has reinvented the trapeze in a new imaginary aerial space, one that will give you an urge to fly higher than usual too. Until Sunday, 17. January, at La Villette. Call for exact location: Info. Tel.: 08 03 07 50 75.

The RATP's 'Winter Bus' Tours - Some of these are to sites in Paris and some are further away; many tours cost about 200 francs, but there are some for less and some for more.

This all can be found at a little RATP office, just to the right side of the Madeleine. At the same kiosk, there are also a series of attractive brochures for the RATP's regular Paris bus lines.

For example, if you take the one for the bus number 21, it will entitle you to a five franc reduction if you get off on the Pont Neuf, and take a cruise on one of the Vedettes du Pont Neuf.

Okay, so the reduction is less than the price of a bus ticket; it's the thought that counts. If you are one of these 'done it all and seen it all people,' this RATP service kiosk is for you. You know, you leave the driving to them, and get to watch Paris drivers fight it out from the safety of a nice, big bus.

The 'Winter Bus' season continues until 30. March 1999. The kiosk is open Monday to Friday from 9:30 to 12:00 and from 13:00 to 17:00. Closed on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays. The 'Summer Bus' season has longer opening hours and is open on weekends.

Painters At the Marine Museum - For a pleasant museum full of many wonders, the Musée de laphoto: musee de la marine expo painters Marine at Trocadéro is almost exceedingly discrete, but posters for the current exhibition are now on view around town.

For the 36th time, the Musée de la Marine is presenting its ever-growing collection of marine paintings. Many of these are done by 'official' navy painters, but the exhibition also shows works by independent artists. This year, homage is paid to two departed official painters: Jean Cluseau-Lanauve and Jacques Bouyssou.

Except for Tuesdays, open daily from 10:00 to 17:50. Musée de la Marine, Palais de Chaillot, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro.

Modern Art In Lille - 'L'Envers du Décor' is at the Musée d'Art Moderne in Lille until Sunday, 21. February. Open daily except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 18:00. Take the métro line 1 to 'Pont de Bois' and then the 41 bus to the Parc Urbain-Musée.

I can't pass up mentioning any Francisco de Goya exhibition. The show is subtitled 'Un Regard Libre' and you can see it until Sunday, 14. March. fnac and the SNCF have joined ticketing forces to make the visit fairly easy.

There's a promo transit rate, starting at 129 francs, for TGV first class, so that's 258 for a round-trip. It takes 60 minutes one-way and there's a train from Gare du Nord every half hour. In Lille, look for the Palais des Beaux-Arts, which is at the place de la République. Info. Tel.: 03 20 06 78 00. Lille itself offers a combo price for the exhibition and lodging.

L'Heure Espagnole - is by Maurice Ravel and will be performed by the Orchestre National d'Ile de France on Saturday, 16. January at 20:30 in the Salle Pleyel, under the direction of Jacques Mercier.

According to Mr. Mercier, you are supposed to laugh along with this piece of Spanish 'boulevard' music; so if you find it amusing, you already have his okay to enjoy yourself.

The imposingly-named Orchestre National d'Ile de France has series of concerts running through to May. Best of all, this Orchestra has an email address.

Orchestre National d'Ile de France, at the Salle Pleyel, 252. rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris 8. Ticket sales at 24. rue des Archives, Paris 4. Contact by email: orchestrenationalidf@compuserve.com or Info. Tel.: 01 43 68 76 00.

Le Misanthrope - by Molière is playing at the Maison des Cultures du Monde, adapted and directed by Dominique Houdart, with Hubert Jappelle, Jeanne Heuclin and Catherine Larue. Until Thursday, 28. January, this show is on from Tuesday to Saturday, at 21:00.

At the same location, the Padox Café-Concert, featuring Jeanne Heuclin singing Yvette Guilbert and the Commune de Paris. This takes place Friday and Saturday at 19:00 and on Sundays at 12:00. The Maison des Cultures du Monde, 101. boulevard Raspail, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame des Champs. Info. Tel.: 01 45 44 41 42.

Café de la Danse - Starting on Wednesday, 6. January, the 'Belles Nuits du Ramadan' takes off with 15 evenings of 'oriental music' at the Café de la Danse, 5. passage Louis-Philippe, Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. The 'Café' is located between the rue de Lappe and the passage Thiéré. Info. Tel.: 01 48 87 50 50.

Nel Haroun, Café Oriental, 1920

Here's the story: it turns around the mysterious person of Nel Haroun, and the time is the 'Années Folles' - when Parisian cabarets were sometimes more like the caverns of Ali Baba - and this original musical seeks to recreate the orientalism that was so popular at the time.

Dancers, jugglers, actors and singers; about 20 in all, perform the original idea of Mayodi, under the direction of Pierre Mechanick. Attention: this piece includes belly dancing and if you are a fan of this, it shouldn't be missed.

Divan du Monde, 75. rue des Martyrs, Paris 18. From Tuesday, 5. January until Thursday, 14. January. Métro: Pigalle or Abbesses. Info. Tel.: 01 49 87 50 50.

23rd Paris International Marathon

The Marathon International de Paris - to be run on Sunday, 4. April 1999 - is now taking inscriptions.

To register for the Marathon, I have only a fax number at this time: 33 -1 41 33 15 69, but give the Web site a try too.

If writing, the name and address is Athletisme Organisation SA, BP 182, 92135 Issy-les-Moulineaux, France. If absolutely necessary, I will scan the registration form and email a copy to anyone who requests it.

Inscriptions made before 15. January 1999 cost 190 francs for residents and 250 francs or US$45 or 75 DM for visitors.

After the date above, from 18. January to 19. March, the rates rise to 250 francs for residents, and to 370 francs - US$75, 115 DM - for visitors. The rates for signing up after 19. March are quite a bit higher and entries are limited to 25,000. If you wait and the quota is full on the sign-up deadline, you'll be out of luck.

If this big-time stuff is not your beat, there is also a Semi-Marathon; which will be run in Paris on Sunday, 7. March 1999. Take your pick.

Tropiques Métis - It is difficult to tell whether France belongs it its former colonies or the other way around; for they are very much present in everyday life. Guadeloupe, Guyane, Martinique and Réunion export not only people to France, but music, art, folklore, lifestyle and food too.

There is a program of plays and Carnaval workshops for the young, on Wednesdays in January and March. Toss in a bit - 400 years - of history, and you can find it all in one place until 12. April, at the Musée des Arts et Traditions Populaires. 6. avenue du Mahatma Gandhi, Paris 6.

This is inside the Jardin d'Acclimatation. Métro: Sablons, in Neuilly, plus a seven-minute walk. Open daily except Tuesday, from 9:30 to 17:15. Info. Tel.: 01 44 17 60 00.

Russian Icons - Russian soul, from the collection of the Kolomiensky Museum in Moscow; featuring about 50 icons and other items on view outside Russia for the first time. An added attraction of this exhibition is that it is located on the top of the Grande Arche at La Défense, and the entry price of 60 francs includes the elevator ride up to the top. Open daily from 10:00 to 18:00, until 31. January. Métro and RER: Grande Arche de la Défense. The view is free.

La Poste Launched Its First 'Euro' Stamp - Starting last week, La Poste postmarked its first three-franc 'Euro' stamp. The co-existing 'Euro' price of the stamp is 0.46 'euro-sign.' I have to write 'euro-sign' because my computer and yours, don't have this big-C-with-the-double-crossbar character yet.

The rate will fluctuate like any other currency against the dollar, but not against other countries in 'Euroland.'

For philatelists, this is a big event. Other countries within the 'Euro'-block will be putting out their new stamps too - during the two-year changeover period. France's number one will have 500 million issued. The France-issued stamp can only be used for postage within France, or from France to other countries - not from other countries to France.

'La Poste's' services for philatelists are accessible by the Web to interested collectors. Although it is not explicit that La Poste takes foreign orders, it does offer information about its subscription service in English, German, Spanish and Italian, in addition to French. La Poste also accepts payments made with Visa or Mastercard.

art: 'never mind' gal. art conceptGalleries Louise Weiss - The modern art galleries grouped in the rue Louise Weiss, Paris 13, are always staging new collections of exhibitions. The latest in the series took a little holiday, and reopens on Monday, 4. January. Opening hours are usually from 14:00 to 19:00 daily, except for all of them being closed on Mondays. All galleries: métro Chevaleret. The illustration, 'Never Mind,' is at the Art : Concept Gallery.

Paris' Very, Very Long 'Mois de la Photo' - 10th Edition

This annual 'one-month' event kicked off late last October and is continuing well into the new year. It started with Edmond Bacot and Olivier Mériel's photos of Victor Hugo, which can be seen at the Maison de Victor Hugo in the Place des Vosges, until 24. January 1999.

'Paris, Ici et Là - le Paris des Quartiers' - An exhibition, mostly of photos, of Paris and its 'quarters' - which some have likened to 100 villages. With this show, you get to see a lot of Paris away from the main sights, and get to see them in the comfort of the Hôtel de Ville's reception office.

The 'Paris des Quartiers' exhibition continues until Saturday, 16. January and is open from 9:30 to 18:30 except on Sundays and holidays. At 29. rue de Rivoli, Paris 4. No entry charge.

There will also be photos of old Moscow - until 14. February - and an exhibition of soviet views - 'Art for the Masses' - of themselves from 1917 to 1981, which can be seen at Paris' Mediathéque - no - I can't remember its new name. It used to be the Vidéothéque; but it is still at Les Halles on the Lautréamont Terrace, by the Porte Rambuteau.

There are too many individual events and locations for them to list here. Luckily we have the Web and the Mois de la Photo has its own site, where there should be a complete program.

If you are in Paris, some of the contents of the Web site above can been seen hanging on walls at the Maison Européenne de la Photo, 5-7. rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 75 07.

Another Photo-Web sites worth a visit is Centre National de la Photo, which is located in the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, 11. rue Berryer, Paris 8. Info. Tel.: 01 53 76 12 32.

Long-Running Exhibitions, Shows and Events:

Sauver Assise! - at the Musée du Petit Palais until 14. February.

Early Picasso - 1901 to 1909 - on at the Musée Picasso, Hôtel de Salé, 5. rue Thorigny, Paris 3. On view until Monday, 25. January. Info. Tel.: 01 42 71 25 21.

Issey Miyake: - the pioneer of 'métissage,' but otherwise known as one of the most inventive clothing designers we have at the end of this century. Until 17. January.

poster: hotel de la monnaieL'Idiot - Fyodor Mikhailovich Dostoyevsky wrote to his niece in 1869 to say he thought this story might be a total failure - with a near seven-week run booked for it, it looks like the producers think otherwise. At the Théâtre 14 J. M. Serrea until Sunday, 10. January.

Lorenzo Lotto - Exhibition at the Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais - until Monday, 11. January 1999.

The poster for the exhibition at the Hôtel de la Monnie, mentioned above.

Lydie Arickx: - has an exhibition which can be seen at the Convent des Cordeliers until Sunday, 10. January.

Cashemires Parisiens: - Exhibition at the Musée Galliera - Musée de la Mode et du Costume de la Ville de Paris. Final day is 28. February 1999.

Le Passé Recomposé: - An exhibition of multimedia projects, which show the re-constituted past - that is, the historic past. At the Trianon de Bagatelle, until Sunday, 10. January.

Giacometti, Richier, Gutfreund: - Exhibition 'Bourdelle et Ses Elèves,' at the Musée Bourdelle until 7. February.

Architectural Genius - François Mansart - Exhibition at the Hôtel de Rohan, until Sunday, 17. January 1999.

Suzuki Osamu: - Exhibition at the Espace des Arts Mitsukoshi-Etoile. Until Saturday, 9. January.

Laves Emaillées: - Exhibition in the atelier of Ary Scheffer, at the Musée de la Vie Romantique, until Sunday, 17. January.

Traipsing Through Fancy Hotels - From 'Palais' to 'Palace' is the name of this exhibition about Paris' grand hotels, which is in the Musée Carnavalet, until Sunday, 24. January.

Rites et Festins de la Chine Antique:- are the 'Bronzes du Musée de Shanghai, at the Musée Cernuschi, until Sunday, 10. January.

Mémoire d'Empire: - the 'Trésors du Musée National du Palais, Taipei' is an exhibition at the Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais, until Monday, 25. January.

The above items have been carried over for many issues of this magazine. If you require more information - such as addresses or phone numbers - check 'Past Issues' either from here, or from the top or bottom of any page in the magazine.

Send email concerning the
contents to: Ric Erickson, Editor.
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