Scene - Now Featuring 1999

The New Paris' Season Begins

Paris:- Saturday, 16. January 1999:- Technically the above headline is true because Paris' Museum of Modern Art began a show of Mark Rothko paintings last Thursday, on 14. January.

There are 70 works on display, done between 1935 and 1969, the year before he died. This amounts to a span of work covering 34 years and it is arranged in chronological order; so you can see either where the artist was going or where he came from.

Musée d'Art Moderne, 11; Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Place de l'Alma. Open Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 to 17:30 and on weekends from 10:00 to 18:45. Info. Tel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Who Are The French? - This exhibition - called 'Toute la France' - is about all the people who immigrated to France from 1880 to the present, and there are around 700 items on view - quite a lot of them 'arty.'

The names in a 'Who's Who' in France would look like they've come from the world's telephone directory, regardless of what Mr. Le Pen would have some of the French believe. My name is not in the 'Who's Who' but it is in the phone book.

Musée d'Histoire Contemporaine, 129. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Varenne or Solférino. From Tuesday to Friday, from 10:00 to 13:00 and 14:00 to 17:30; Thursdays to 19:00. On Saturday from 12:30 to 17:30 and on Sundays from 14:00 to 17:30.

The Louvre is never finished - never! - and seems to operate on some expansion system normally found only in outer space. The Louvre, however, is in Paris and it contents itself with expanding its own interior space into yet more - yes, more! - space for exhibitions.

So then, the Italian wing has added six 'large-format' frescos; two by Botticelli, one by Fra Angelico and three by Luini. These are all in the 15th and 16th century periods and are 'part two' of a three-part expansion; of which the third part will be completed 'next' spring.

Find these new marvels on the first floor of the Denon wing, near the stairway with the 'Winged Victory of Samothrace' [Third century, BC] Everybody in Paris, both residents and visitors know where the Louvre is, so I'm not putting in its address here. For your convenience though - Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 51 51.

The Opéra-Comique - is having its 100th birthday and I seem to remember mentioning it, but can't be sure if I just read about it and forgot it. Anyway, there is a photo exhibition which features this opera's past, and it can be viewed until Wednesday, 10. February. On Wednesdays from 10:00 to 18:30 and on Saturdays from 10:00 to 13:00 and 14:00 to 18:00. There's no charge for this show; it can be seen at the Place Boïeldieu, Paris 2. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot. Info. Tel.: 01 42 44 45 46.

Retromobile '99 - is coming soon. Readers are already asking for it, and I assure everybody that the press dossier is supposed to be on its way to me as I write these words. Before it arrives, I can say that the dates for this year's edition are Friday, 12. February until Sunday, 21. February. The event takes place at Paris Expo, Porte de Versailles, and will be in the Hall 2/1 like last year. If old boats are your bag, 'Retro- Nautique' takes place at the same time, in the same place.

With these additions added and the cuts subtracted, this issue of 'Scene' is now at the 2,700-word mark; down from about 3,700 words last week. I can live with 3,000 words but I'm too bushed to write a blurb for each of the illustrations here. They are about things going on in Paris is all I feel like saying. Goodnight.

Les Cents Vierges - is an operetta by Charles Lecoq, presented by the Enfants d'Arlequin and directed by Nedeljko Grujic. From the number of people involved, I think this is a big production.

At the Théâtre Dejazet, 141. Boulevard du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: République. Performances until Sunday, 24. January, all at 20:30. The Sunday shows are in the afternoons; call the Info. Tel.: 01 48 87 52 55, and tickets are also available at fnac outlets.

Rumbanana - is a delightful name for what looks like a Cuban band of Rumba ladies, who apparently will be doing Monday 'Salsa' nights at the Sunset Jazz Club, starting on Monday, 18. January. From 21:30 to very late. They will be helped out by Orlando Poleo who will be doing his thing at the same time in the same place.

Sunset Jazz Club, 60. Rue des Lombards, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet. Info. Tel.: 01 40 26 46 60, or tickets can be found at fnac or Virgin outlets.

Les Noces de Jeanette - was created for the Opéra-Comique by Victor Massé in 1853, and is about Jean who was supposed to say 'Oui' to the mayor, but skipped instead; presumably leaving Jeanette in the lurch at the city hall marriage office.

The Nadia Baji Company puts this story on stage at the Espace Jemmapes each Saturday at 18:00, until the end of this month. The Espace Jemmapes is at 116. Quai de Jemmapes, Paris 10. Métro: République. Info. Tel.: 01 48 03 11 09, or tickets from fnac or France-Billet.

Antiques Fair: - once again 80 antique dealers gather for 10 days under heated tents along the Quai Henry IV, between the Pont de Sully and the Porte de l'Arsenal. The theme of the present edition turns around old and new kitchen items. Bars and restaurants are included, so haggling over 'found' treasures can be done with ambiance. This continues until Sunday, 24. January, and is in operation daily from 11:00 to 19:00, and on Thursday, 21. January, until 22:00. Métro: Sully-Morland or Quai de la Rapée. Info. Tel.: 01 43 31 49 49.

L'Antre Magique - is the 'first Magic theatre for enfants' where card tricks are shown with 'nothing up the sleeves' because the little dears don't have any. This has been dreamed up by Christian Gambin.

There are afternoon sessions from 14:30 to 16:00 and 'Soirées Fantastiques' at 20:30 on Fridays and Saturdays. Afternoons are on Wednesday, Saturday, Sundays and holidays. L'Antre Magique, 50. rue Saint-Georges, Paris 9. Metro: Notre-Dame de Lorette. Info. Tel.: 01 39 15 84 48.

The RATP's 'Winter Bus' Tours: - Some of these are to sites in Paris and some are further away; many tours cost about 200 francs, but there are some for less and some for more.

All of this can be found at a little RATP office, just to the right side of the Madeleine. At the same kiosk, there are also a series of attractive brochures for the RATP's regular Paris bus lines.

The 'Winter Bus' season continues until 30. March 1999. The kiosk is open Monday to Friday from 9:30 to 12:00 and from 13:00 to 17:00. Closed on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays. The 'Summer Bus' season has longer opening hours and is open on weekends.

Painters At the Marine Museum - For a pleasant museum full of many wonders. For the 36th time, the Musée de la Marine is presenting its ever-growing collection of marine paintings. Many of these are done by 'official' navy painters, but the exhibition also shows works by independent artists.

Except for Tuesdays, open daily from 10:00 to 17:50. Musée de la Marine, Palais de Chaillot, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro.

Royal Paintings: - actually in the Ile-de-France, at Fountainbleau, there is an exhibition of a collection of 48 paintings grouped together for the first time. Some of these are decor for royal surroundings, and Rubens was among the 'decorators,' which will give you an idea of the class of the act.