Scene - Now Featuring 1999

photo: cafe de la gare, dance school
The 'Café de la Gare' is not a café nor is it near any station. It is almost in the Marais and it is a school of dance.

The New Paris' Season Begins

Paris:- Saturday, 16. January 1999:- Technically the above headline is true because Paris' Museum of Modern Art began a show of Mark Rothko paintings last Thursday, on 14. January.

There are 70 works on display, done between 1935 and 1969, the year before he died. This amounts to a span of brochure: paris expositionswork covering 34 years and it is arranged in chronological order; so you can see either where the artist was going or where he came from.

Musée d'Art Moderne, 11; Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Place de l'Alma. Open Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 to 17:30 and on weekends from 10:00 to 18:45. Info. Tel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Who Are The French? - This exhibition - called 'Toute la France' - is about all the people who immigrated to France from 1880 to the present, and there are around 700 items on view - quite a lot of them 'arty.'

The names in a 'Who's Who' in France would look like they've come from the world's telephone directory, regardless of what Mr. Le Pen would have some of the French believe. My name is not in the 'Who's Who' but it is in the phone book.

Musée d'Histoire Contemporaine, 129. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Varenne or Solférino. From Tuesday to Friday, from 10:00 to 13:00 and 14:00 to 17:30; Thursdays to 19:00. On Saturday from 12:30 to 17:30 and on Sundays from 14:00 to 17:30.

The Louvre is never finished - never! - and seems to operate on some expansion system normally found only in outer space. The Louvre, however, is in Paris and it contents itself with expanding its own interior space into yet more - yes, more! - space for exhibitions.

So then, the Italian wing has added six 'large-format' frescos; two by Botticelli, one by Fra Angelico and three by Luini. These are all in the 15th and 16th century periods and are 'part two' of a three-part expansion; of which the third part will be completed 'next' spring.

Find these new marvels on the first floor of the Denon wing, near the stairway with the 'Winged Victory of Samothrace' [Third century, BC] Everybody in Paris, both residents and visitors know where the Louvre is, so I'm not putting in its address here. For your convenience though - Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 51 51.

The Opéra-Comique - is having its 100th birthday and I seem to remember mentioning it, but can't be sure if I just read about it and forgot it. Anyway, there is a photo exhibition which features this opera's past, and it can be viewed until Wednesday, 10. February. On Wednesdays from 10:00 to 18:30 and on Saturdays from 10:00 to 13:00 and 14:00 to 18:00. There's no charge for this show; it can be seen at the Place Boïeldieu, Paris 2. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot. Info. Tel.: 01 42 44 45 46.

poster: retromobile 99Retromobile '99 - is coming soon. Readers are already asking for it, and I assure everybody that the press dossier is supposed to be on its way to me as I write these words. Before it arrives, I can say that the dates for this year's edition are Friday, 12. February until Sunday, 21. February. The event takes place at Paris Expo, Porte de Versailles, and will be in the Hall 2/1 like last year. If old boats are your bag, 'Retro- Nautique' takes place at the same time, in the same place.

With these additions added and the cuts subtracted, this issue of 'Scene' is now at the 2,700-word mark; down from about 3,700 words last week. I can live with 3,000 words but I'm too bushed to write a blurb for each of the illustrations here. They are about things going on in Paris is all I feel like saying. Goodnight.

Les Cents Vierges - is an operetta by Charles Lecoq, presented by the Enfants d'Arlequin and directed by Nedeljko Grujic. From the number of people involved, I think this is a big production.

At the Théâtre Dejazet, 141. Boulevard du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: République. Performances until Sunday, 24. January, all at 20:30. The Sunday shows are in the afternoons; call the Info. Tel.: 01 48 87 52 55, and tickets are also available at fnac outlets.

Rumbanana - is a delightful name for what looks like a Cuban band of Rumba ladies, who apparently will be doing Monday 'Salsa' nights at the Sunset Jazz Club, starting on Monday, 18. January. From 21:30 to very late. They will be helped out by Orlando Poleo who will be doing his thing at the same time in the same place.

Sunset Jazz Club, 60. Rue des Lombards, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet. Info. Tel.: 01 40 26 46 60, or tickets can be found at fnac or Virgin outlets.

Les Noces de Jeanette - was created for the Opéra-Comique by Victor Massé in 1853, and is about Jean who was supposed to say 'Oui' to the mayor, but skipped instead; presumably leaving Jeanette in the lurch at the city hall marriage office.

The Nadia Baji Company puts this story on stage at the Espace Jemmapes each Saturday at 18:00, until the end of this month. The Espace Jemmapes is at 116. Quai de Jemmapes, Paris 10. Métro: République. Info. Tel.: 01 48 03 11 09, or tickets from fnac or France-Billet.

Antiques Fair: - once again 80 antique dealers gather for 10 days under heated tents along the Quai Henry IV, between the Pont de Sully and the Porte de l'Arsenal. The theme of the present edition turns around old and new kitchen items. Bars and restaurants are included, so haggling over 'found' treasures can be done with ambiance. This continues until Sunday, 24. January, and is in operation daily from 11:00 to 19:00, and on Thursday, 21. January, until 22:00. Métro: Sully-Morland or Quai de la Rapée. Info. Tel.: 01 43 31 49 49.

L'Antre Magique - is the 'first Magic theatre for enfants' where card tricks are shown with 'nothing up the sleeves' because the little dears don't have any. This has been dreamed up by Christian Gambin.

There are afternoon sessions from 14:30 to 16:00 and 'Soirées Fantastiques' at 20:30 on Fridays and Saturdays. Afternoons are on Wednesday, Saturday, Sundays and holidays. L'Antre Magique, 50. rue Saint-Georges, Paris 9. Metro: Notre-Dame de Lorette. Info. Tel.: 01 39 15 84 48.

The RATP's 'Winter Bus' Tours: - Some of these are to sites in Paris and some are further away; many tours cost about 200 francs, but there are some for less and some for more.

All of this can be found at a little RATP office, just to the right side of the Madeleine. At the same kiosk, there are also a series of attractive brochures for the RATP's regular Paris bus lines.

The 'Winter Bus' season continues until 30. March 1999. The kiosk is open Monday to Friday from 9:30 to 12:00 and from 13:00 to 17:00. Closed on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays. The 'Summer Bus' season has longer opening hours and is open on weekends.

Painters At the Marine Museum - For a pleasant museum full of many wonders. For the 36th time, the Musée de la Marine is presenting its ever-growing collection of marine paintings. Many of these are done by 'official' navy painters, but the exhibition also shows works by independent artists.

Except for Tuesdays, open daily from 10:00 to 17:50. Musée de la Marine, Palais de Chaillot, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro.

Royal Paintings: - actually in the Ile-de-France, at Fountainbleau, there is an exhibition of a collection of 48 paintingsposter: adonis, jean de la fontaine grouped together for the first time. Some of these are decor for royal surroundings, and Rubens was among the 'decorators,' which will give you an idea of the class of the act.

The Musée du Château de Fontainbleau, is in Fontainbleau with a lot of other sights to see, and is 65 km< by road from Paris. Trains go there too, but my Michelin map does not say from where - except that I can see the tracks run along the Seine past Melun - I guess from the Gare de Lyon, since the RER line 'D' runs to Melun from there. The museum is closed on Tuesdays and open from 9:30 to 12:30, and from 14:00 to 17:00 all other days. Info. Tel.: 01 60 71 50 70.

Le Misanthrope: - by Molière is playing at the Maison des Cultures du Monde, adapted and directed by Dominique Houdart, with Hubert Jappelle, Jeanne Heuclin and Catherine Larue. Until Thursday, 28. January, this show is on from Tuesday to Saturday, at 21:00.

At the same location, in the Padox Café - a concert, featuring Jeanne Heuclin singing Yvette Guilbert and the Commune de Paris. This takes place Friday and Saturday at 19:00 and on Sundays at 12:00. The Maison des Cultures du Monde, 101. boulevard Raspail, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame des Champs. Info. Tel.: 01 45 44 41 42.

23rd Paris International Marathon: - The Marathon International de Paris - is to be run on Sunday, 4. April 1999. To register, try the fax number 33 -1 41 33 15 69, or give the Web site a hit.

From 18. January to 19. March, the entry charges are 250 francs for residents, and to 370 francs - US$75, 115 DM - for visitors. The rates for signing up after 19. March are quite a bit higher and entries are limited to 25,000. If you wait and the quota is full on the sign-up deadline, you'll be out of luck.

If this big-time stuff is not your beat, there is also a Semi-Marathon; which will be run in Paris on Sunday, 7. March 1999. Take your pick.

Tropiques Métis: - It is difficult to tell whether France belongs it its former colonies or the other way around; for they are very much present in everyday life. Guadeloupe, Guyane, Martinique and Réunion export not only people to France, but music, art, folklore, lifestyle and food too.

There is a program of plays and Carnaval workshops for the young, on Wednesdays in January and March. Toss in a bit - 400 years - of history, and you can find it all in one place until 12. April, at the Musée des Arts et Traditions Populaires. 6. avenue du Mahatma Gandhi, Paris 6.

This is inside the Jardin d'Acclimatation. Métro: Sablons, in Neuilly, plus a seven-minute walk. Open daily except Tuesday, from 9:30 to 17:15. Info. Tel.: 01 44 17 60 00.

Russian Icons - Russian soul, from the collection of the Kolomiensky Museum in Moscow; featuring about 50 icons and other items on view outside Russia for the first time. An added attraction of thisposter: batofar exhibition is that it is located on the top of the Grande Arche at La Défense, and the entry price of 60 francs includes the elevator ride up to the top. Open daily from 10:00 to 18:00, until Sunday, 31. January. Métro and RER: Grande Arche de la Défense. The view is free.

Galleries Louise Weiss: - The modern art galleries grouped in the rue Louise Weiss, Paris 13, are planning a new collection of exhibitions. The latest in the series took a little holiday, but has reopened and will continue to Saturday, 23. January. Hours are usually from 14:00 to 19:00 daily, except for all of them being closed on Mondays. All galleries: métro Chevaleret.

Paris' Exceedingly 'Long' Mois de la Photo - 10th Edition: - This annual 'one-month' event kicked off late last October and is continuing well into the new year. It started with Edmond Bacot and Olivier Mériel's photos of Victor Hugo, which can be still be seen at the Maison de Victor Hugo in the Place des Vosges, until Sunday, 24. January.

Luckily we have the Web and the very long 'Mois de la Photo' has its own site, where there should be a complete program; possibly with dates running right up to the beginning of the 11th edition, in October.

If you are in Paris, some of the contents of the Web site above can been seen hanging on walls at the Maison Européenne de la Photo, 5-7. rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 75 07.

Another Photo-Web sites worth a visit is Centre National de la Photo, which is located in the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, 11. rue Berryer, Paris 8. Info. Tel.: 01 53 76 12 32.

Long-Running Exhibitions, Shows and Events - Besides the 'Mois de la Photo:'

Traipsing Through Fancy Hotels - From 'Palais' to 'Palace' is the name of this exhibition about Paris' grand hotels, which is in the Musée Carnavalet, until Sunday, 24. January.

Giambattista Tiepolo - is still on view at the Petit Palais, but only until Sunday, 24. January.

The Musée Zadkine - has been showing 20 Eaux-Fortes from WWI for some time now. Sunday, 24. January is your last chance to see them. At 100. Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Open from 10:00 to 17:30 except on Mondays. Info. Tel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

Early Picasso - 1901 to 1909: - on at the Musée Picasso, Hôtel de Salé, 5. rue Thorigny, Paris 3. On view until Monday, 25. January. Info. Tel.: 01 42 71 25 21.

Mémoire d'Empire: - the 'Trésors du Musée National du Palais, Taipei' is an exhibition at the Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais, until Monday, 25. January.

Passions Pasquier - or 'Point et Countrepoints' is an exhibition at Paris' mint. This is a place to keep an eye on, because soon - someday - these people will be minting 'Euros.' At the Hôtel de la Monnaie, 11. Quai de Conti, Paris 6. This exhibition continues until Sunday, 31. January; daily except Mondays from 11:00 to 17:30.

Giacometti, Richier, Gutfreund: - Exhibition 'Bourdelle et Ses Elèves,' at the Musée Bourdelle until Sunday, 7. February.

Sauver Assise! - at the Musée du Petit Palais until Sunday, 14. February.

The Musée Carnavalet - has 'Le Vieux Moscou en photos, 1880 to 1915' and this continues until Sunday, 14. February, if you haven't seen it yet.

The Pavillon des Arts - has an exhibition of soviet views - 'Art for the Masses.' This show also seems to be called '1917-1991, La Photographie Soviétique - Mirroir de Son Temps.' It can be seen at the Forum des Halles on the Lautréamont Terrace, by the Porte Rambuteau. Until Sunday, 14. February.

Rembrandt et Amsterdam in Paris: - at the Institut Néerlandais, 121. rue de Lille, Paris 7. Métro: Assemblée Nationale. Except Mondays, daily from 13:00 to 19:00, until Sunday, 14. February.

Cashemires Parisiens: - Exhibition at the Musée Galliera - Musée de la Mode et du Costume de la Ville de Paris. Final day is Sunday, 28. February.

Alexis Gruss: - is Gruss senior and he goes for 'classic' circus, elegant circus, circus with non-stop costumes and thebrochure: les siecles, museum gifts main acts are done by dancing horses and lesser acts have lots of trained animals too. Until Sunday, 7. March; on the Pelouse de Madrid, in the Bois de Boulogne. Métro: Info. Tel.: 01 44 17 96 22.

Long-Range Planning Department: - Make a careful note and keep it where you can find it. There will be an eclipse of the sun by the moon, on Wednesday, 11. August, between 12:16 and 12:32. In Rouen and Reims and 4,998 other towns and villages, it will be total; in Paris only 90 percent.

Baring dense clouds, this will be very visible - or is it nearly invisible? - in the Paris region; something which has not occurred since 1724 when Louis XV was a young lad of 14. Still undecided? The next eclipse is programmed for 2081. If eclipses are your bag, book your flight today!

Some of the above items have been carried over for many issues of this magazine. If you require more information - such as addresses or phone numbers - check 'Past Issues' either from here, or from the top or bottom of any page in the magazine.

Send email concerning the
contents to: Ric Erickson, Editor.
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