Scene - Now Featuring More of 1999

photo: metro etoile and arc
From here you can get to the locations of many
events listed below.

Paris' New Season Begins in Ernest

Paris:- Saturday, 23. January 1999:- This week events take up the space I would normally use here to make a few comments. I had intended to write some details about the new Musée d'Art et d'Historie du Judaïsme, but this will require a feature of it own in the near future.

photo: musee juifThis museum opened for the first time in its new incarnation on 6. December of last year, in the Hôtel de Saint-Aignan. This is 'in' the Marais, in the rue du Temple at number 71; Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau.

The new museum in the Rue du Temple.

The museum is open from Monday to Friday, from 11:00 to 18:00 and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. Info Tel.: 01 53 01 86 53 and Fax.: 33 1 42 72 97 47. Since it is a new museum, there is also an Internet address you can write to for information.

Mark Rothko at the Museum of Modern Art: 70 works are on display, done between 1935 and 1969. This amounts to a span of work covering 34 years and it is arranged in chronological order; so you can see either where the artist was going or where he came from.

Musée d'Art Moderne, 11; Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Place de l'Alma. Open Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 to 17:30 and on weekends from 10:00 to 18:45. Info. Tel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Expolangues is an annual salon all about languages and how to learn them. How to use them is something you can also learn at the salon if you are ready for a quick lesson in babel, because the exhibitors speak nearly everything; all in one place at one time.

From Thursday, 28. January to Sunday, 31. January; from 10:00 to 19:00, to 18:00 on Sunday. Entry 40 francs; free for language teachers and kids under 12. At the Grand Halle de la Villette, 211. avenue Jean Jaurés, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. Info. Tel.: 01 41 90 47 60.

35th Numicarta is another short-term salon for the exhibition and sales of antique and modern collector's postcards, coins, 'jetons,' telephone cards and photos. On your marks, collectors! On Friday, 29. January and Saturday, 30. January only; from 10:00 to 19:00 - in the Marcel Cerda room at the huge Bercy sportpalace; entry door number 28. At 8. Boulevard de Bercy, Paris 12. Métro: Bercy, lines 6 and 14.

Touring Car Racing will also be held in the one-size-fits-all Palais des Omnisports de Paris Bercy - to give it its correct and full name - in mid-February. The posters for it are in certain métro stations and I was so bemused by the notion that I forgot to write down the details for this event.

Bercy, as it is known for short, also has motorcycle racing which can be suited for an indoor environment - but Touring Cars? The car pictured on the poster looks more like it is meant for Le Mans, so what bemused me was 'truth in advertising.' As big as Bercy is, I can't imagine this type of car clipping around inside it at its customary 230 kph top-speed.

Do You Know Juliette? If you take a look at her poster on poster page 1 in this issue you will at least know what she looks like. In fact, everybody knows what she looks like because this poster has been all over Paris for months now.

Juliette will be singing from Tuesday, 9. February until Valentine's Day at the Olympia every night at 20:30, except on Sundays when she will perform at 17:00. Her new album, which I have not heard, is called 'Assassins sans Couteaux.'

Tickets are available at all the usual places, including the Olympia, which is opposite number 43 in the Boulevard des Capucines, Paris 9. Métro: Madeleine. This concert hall is so famous it does not seem to be in the phone book or in any of my guides; therefore no exact address is given here. You can't miss it if you stand across the street from it.

'Palettes' Celebrates 10 Years: - If you are in a hotel room in Paris, France or Germany, the TV channel Arte will be showing a series of 45 films about paintings, by Alain Jaubert. On every Friday at 20:15 until 25. June. Filmedposter: arte-tv, palette in cooperation with the major museums, the series is also available on video. The painting, 'Olympia' by Manet, can be seen live at the Musée d'Orsay.

Les Musées de France: - have a mail-order catalogue which you can order to have delivered to you. Write with your name and address to Les Musées de France, 60505 Chantilly Cedex, France. The catalogue can also be picked up at their shop, in the Forum des Halles, Porte Berger, level 2; from Monday to Saturday, from 10:30 to 19:15. Info. Tel.: 03 44 58 44 07 or Fax.: 33 3 44 62 80 25.

La Maison du Peuple is a novel written by Louis Guilloux and it is being performed as a theatre piece on the 100th anniversary of the author's birth by the Companie Marcel Maréchal at the Théâtre du Rond-Point Champs-Elysées, from Wednesday, 27. January, but not continuously, until Saturday, 20. February; at 18:30. One price: 50 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 44 95 98 10, for exact dates and reservations.

Don Juan by Molière - is already on the boards and continues until Saturday, 13. February. This production is a 'création collective' by the Footsbarn Traveling Theatre, which I think comes to Paris from the Auvergne. Performances are on Tuesdays at 19:00, the rest of the week at 20:00 and at 16:00 on Sundays. In the Grand Salle of the Athenée Théâtre Louis-Jouvet, Square de l'Opéra-Louis Jouvet, 7. Rue Boudeau, Paris 9. Métro: Harve Caumartin. Info. Tel.: 01 53 05 19 19.

La Fuite en Egypte - is by Bruno Bayen and most of the multi-page brochure about it is by him too, except for the parts byposter: bayen 'la fuite en egypte Robert Graves, Gérard Manly Hopkins and Georges Perec. The cast is four and there are 10 in the orchestra. Until Sunday, 14. February; from Tuesday to Saturday at 20:30 and on Sundays at 16:00. All of this can be found at the Théâtre de Gennevilliers, 41. Avenue des Grésillons in Gennenvilliers, which is across the Seine from Clichy. Métro: Gabriel-Péri, on line 13. Info. Tel.: 01 41 32 26 26.

Who Are The French? - This exhibition - called 'Toute la France' - is about all the people who immigrated to France from 1880 to the present, and there are around 700 items on view - quite a lot of them 'arty.' The names in a 'Who's Who' in France would look like they've come from the world's edition of a telephone directory.

Musée d'Histoire Contemporaine, 129. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Varenne or Solférino. From Tuesday to Friday, from 10:00 to 13:00 and 14:00 to 17:30; Thursdays to 19:00. On Saturday from 12:30 to 17:30 and on Sundays from 14:00 to 17:30.

The Louvre is never finished - never! - and seems to operate on some expansion system normally found only in outer space. The Louvre, however, is in Paris and it contents itself with expanding its own interior space into yet more - yes, more! - space for exhibitions.

So then, the Italian wing has added six 'large-format' frescos; two by Botticelli, one by Fra Angelico and three by Luini. These are all in the 15th and 16th century periods and are 'part two' of a three-part expansion; of which the third part will be completed 'next' spring.

Find these new marvels on the first floor of the Denon wing, near the stairway with the 'Winged Victory of Samothrace' [Third century, BC] Everybody in Paris, both residents and visitors know where the Louvre is, so I'm not putting in its address here. For your convenience though - Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 51 51.

Hôtel de Ville Skating Rink - Patinoire - Eisbahn: - at the Place de la Hôtel de Ville. The official Christmas decor is gone but the skaters keep twirling around; with two extra twirl-go-rounds at either end of ice-skating rink. No charge. Ice-skate rentals. Until 7. March 1999. Open from 9:00 to 22:00 daily.

The Opéra-Comique - is having its 100th birthday right now. There is a photo exhibition which features the opera's past, and this can be viewed until Wednesday, 10. February. On Wednesday from 10:00 to 18:30 and on Saturdays from 10:00 to 13:00 and 14:00 to 18:00. There's no charge for this show; it can be seen at the Place Boïeldieu, Paris 2. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot. Info. Tel.: 01 42 44 45 46.

Retromobile '99 - is coming soon. This year the main features will be the custom cars of famous peopleposter: don juan, theatre athenee such as a Pope, a dictator, a writer, a military governor and the liberator of the governed. Citroën will be celebrating 80 years of existence and there will also be 50th anniversary of the Formule One Grand Prix. Matra, also will be having its 30th anniversary.

The dates for this year's edition are Friday, 12. February until Sunday, 21. February. The event takes place at Paris Expo, Porte de Versailles, and will be in the Hall 2/1 like last year. If old boats are your bag, 'Retro-Nautique,' featuring Horace Dodge's 'cigar' racer, concocted by Harry Miller. The boat show takes place at the same time, in the same place.

Forum des Images: - which used to be known as the Vidéothèque, will be showing an international selection of 'director's' films made especially for television; and in parallel a selection of 'alternative' TV programs, such as 'Paper Tiger' from the USA. Censorship will also be treated, with Marcel Ophüls' long-banned 'Le Chagrin et la Pitié' as an example. From Wednesday, 27. January to Tuesday, 9. February, at the Nouveau Forum des Halles, Porte Saint-Estache. Paris 1. Info. Tel.: 01 44 76 62 00.

The RATP's 'Winter Bus' Tours: - Some of these are to sites in Paris and some are further away; many tours cost about 200 francs, but there are some for less and some for more.

All of this can be found at a little RATP office, just to the right side of the Madeleine. At the same kiosk, there are also a series of attractive brochures for the RATP's regular Paris bus lines.

The 'Winter Bus' season continues until 30. March 1999. The kiosk is open Monday to Friday from 9:30 to 12:00 and from 13:00 to 17:00. Closed on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays. The 'Summer Bus' season has longer opening hours and is open on weekends.

Painters At the Marine Museum - For a pleasant museum full of many wonders. For the 36th time, the Musée de la Marine is presenting its ever-growing collection of marine paintings. Many of these are done by 'official' navy painters, but the exhibition also shows works by independent artists.

Except for Tuesdays, open daily from 10:00 to 17:50. Musée de la Marine, Palais de Chaillot, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro.

Royal Paintings: - actually in the Ile-de-France, at Fountainbleau, there is an exhibition of a collection of 48 paintings grouped together for the first time. Some of these are decor for royal surroundings, and Rubens was among the 'decorators,' which will give you an idea of the class of the act.

The Musée du Château de Fontainbleau, is in Fontainbleau with a lot of other sights to see, and is 65 km by road from Paris. Trains go there too, but my Michelin map does not say from where - except that I can see the tracks run along the Seine past Melun - I guessposter: musees de france from the Gare de Lyon, since the RER line 'D' runs to Melun from there. The museum is closed on Tuesdays and open from 9:30 to 12:30, and from 14:00 to 17:00 all other days. Info. Tel.: 01 60 71 50 70.

23rd Paris International Marathon: - The Marathon International de Paris - is to be run on Sunday, 4. April 1999. To register, try the fax number 33 -1 41 33 15 69, or give the Web site a hit.

Until 19. March, the entry charges are 250 francs for residents, and to 370 francs - US$75, 115 DM - for visitors. The rates for signing up after 19. March are quite a bit higher and entries are limited to 25,000. If you wait and the quota is full on the sign-up deadline, you'll be out of luck.

If this big-time stuff is not your beat, there is also a Semi-Marathon; which will be run in Paris on Sunday, 7. March 1999. Take your pick.

Tropiques Métis: - It is difficult to tell whether France belongs to its former colonies or the other way around; for they are very much present in everyday life. Guadeloupe, Guyane, Martinique and Réunion export not only people to France, but music, art, folklore, lifestyle and food too.

There is a program of plays and Carnaval workshops for the young, on Wednesdays in January and March. Toss in a bit - 400 years - of history, and you can find it all in one place until 12. April, at the Musée des Arts et Traditions Populaires. 6. avenue du Mahatma Gandhi, Paris 6.

This is inside the Jardin d'Acclimatation. Métro: Sablons, in Neuilly, plus a seven-minute walk. Open daily except Tuesday, from 9:30 to 17:15. Info. Tel.: 01 44 17 60 00.

Paris' Exceedingly 'Long' Mois de la Photo - 10th Edition: - This annual 'one-month' event kicked off late last October and is continuing well into the new year. Luckily we have the Web and the very long 'Mois de la Photo' has its own site, where there should be a complete program; possibly with dates running right up to the beginning of the 11th edition, in October.

If you are in Paris, some of the contents of the Web site above can been seen hanging on walls at the Maison Européenne de la Photo, 5-7. rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 75 07.

Another Photo-Web sites worth a visit is Centre National de la Photo, which is located in the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, 11. rue Berryer, Paris 8. Info. Tel.: 01 53 76 12 32.

Long-Running Exhibitions, Shows and Events:

Le Misanthrope: - by Molière is playing at the Maison des Cultures du Monde, adapted and directed by Dominique Houdart, with Hubert Jappelle, Jeanne Heuclin and Catherine Larue. Until Thursday, 28. January, this show is on from Tuesday to Saturday, at 21:00.

At the same location, in the Padox Café - a concert, featuring Jeanne Heuclin singing Yvette Guilbert and the Commune de Paris. This takes place Friday and Saturday at 19:00 and onposter: theatre, 'la maison du peuple' Sundays at 12:00. The Maison des Cultures du Monde, 101. boulevard Raspail, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame des Champs. Info. Tel.: 01 45 44 41 42.

Les Noces de Jeanette - was created for the Opéra-Comique by Victor Massé in 1853, and is about Jean who was supposed to say 'Oui' to the mayor, but skipped instead; presumably leaving Jeanette in the lurch at the city hall marriage office.

The Nadia Baji Company puts this story on stage at the Espace Jemmapes each Saturday at 18:00, until the end of this month. The Espace Jemmapes is at 116. Quai de Jemmapes, Paris 10. Métro: République. Info. Tel.: 01 48 03 11 09, or tickets from fnac or France-Billet.

Russian Icons - Russian soul, from the collection of the Kolomiensky Museum in Moscow; featuring about 50 icons and other items on view outside Russia for the first time. An added attraction of this exhibition is that it is located on the top of the Grande Arche at La Défense, and the entry price of 60 francs includes the elevator ride up to the top. Open daily from 10:00 to 18:00, until Sunday, 31. January. Métro and RER: Grande Arche de la Défense. The view is free.

L'Antre Magique - is the 'first Magic theatre for enfants' where card tricks are shown with 'nothing up the sleeves' because the little dears don't have any. This has been dreamed up by Christian Gambin.

There are afternoon sessions from 14:30 to 16:00 and 'Soirées Fantastiques' at 20:30 on Fridays and Saturdays. Afternoons are on Wednesday, Saturday, Sundays and holidays. L'Antre Magique, 50. rue Saint-Georges, Paris 9. Metro: Notre-Dame de Lorette. Info. Tel.: 01 39 15 84 48.

Passions Pasquier - or 'Point et Countrepoints' is an exhibition at Paris' mint. This is a place to keep an eye on, because soon - someday - these people will be minting 'Euros.' At the Hôtel de la Monnaie, 11. Quai de Conti, Paris 6. This exhibition continues until Sunday, 31. January; daily except Mondays from 11:00 to 17:30.

Giacometti, Richier, Gutfreund: - Exhibition 'Bourdelle et Ses Elèves,' at the Musée Bourdelle until Sunday, 7. February.

Sauver Assise! - at the Musée du Petit Palais until Sunday, 14. February.

The Musée Carnavalet - has 'Le Vieux Moscou en photos, 1880 to 1915' and this continues until Sunday, 14. February, if you haven't seen it yet.

The Pavillon des Arts - has an exhibition of soviet views - 'Art for the Masses.' This show also seems to be called '1917-1991, La Photographie Soviétique - Mirroir de Son Temps.' It can be seen at the Forum des Halles on the Lautréamont Terrace, by the Porte Rambuteau. Until Sunday, 14. February.

Rembrandt et Amsterdam in Paris: - at the Institut Néerlandais, 121. rue de Lille, Paris 7. Métro: Assemblée Nationale. Except Mondays, daily from 13:00 to 19:00, until Sunday, 14. February.

Cashemires Parisiens: - Exhibition at the Musée Galliera - Musée de la Mode et du Costume de la Ville de Paris. Final day is Sunday, 28. February.

Alexis Gruss: - is Gruss senior and he goes for 'classic' circus, elegant circus, circus with non-stop costumes and the main acts are done by dancing horses and lesser acts have lots of trained animals too. Until Sunday, 7. March; on the Pelouse de Madrid, in the Bois de Boulogne. Métro: Info. Tel.: 01 44 17 96 22.

Long-Range Planning Department: - Make a careful note and keep it where you can find it. There will be an eclipse of the sun by the moon, on Wednesday, 11. August, between 12:16 and 12:32. In Rouen and Reims and 4,998 other towns and villages, it will be total; in Paris only 90 percent.

Baring dense clouds, this will be very visible - or is it nearly invisible? - in the Paris region; something which has not occurred since 1724 when Louis XV was a young lad of 14. Still undecided? The next eclipse is programmed for 2081. If eclipses are your bag, book your flight today!

Some of the above items have been carried over for many issues of this magazine. If you require more information - such as addresses or phone numbers - check 'Past Issues' either from here, or from the top or bottom of any page in the magazine.

Send email concerning the
contents to: Ric Erickson, Editor.
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