The Incredible 'Clovis' Boo-Boo

photo: pont des arts, louvre

The sun sets on the golden Louvre, outlining the
Pont des Arts.

Dolls, Music, and Film Festival

Paris:- Saturday, 27. March 1999:- The Musée de la Poupée - the Doll Museum - is a delightful museum hidden at the end of a dead-end alley, about two minutes' walk from the Pompidou Centre. There is a permanent exhibition of over 300 dolls, dating from 1850. These are presented in 36 scenes, along with model period furniture.

There are four principal showrooms; two devoted to dolls produced in the last century, and the other two to production from this one. The boutique, which has a separate entrance, features items made especially for the museum, and has doll parts for collectors as well as general doll souvenirs. If you have found a rare head, you can get a body for it here.

The current temporary exhibition features 'Lapins' with the subtitle, toys and objects with long ears. This continues until Sunday, 30. May.

Musée de la Poupée, Impasse Berthaud, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. Except Monday, open daily from 11:00 to 18:00. Boutique next door. From the métro stop, go up Rue Beaubourg a few metres on the east side, and turn into the alley, where you will see signposts for the museum. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Musicora and MusicMania - for its 15th edition the international Musicora salon celebrates voice, in addition to instruments, the artists, and the latest trends concerning the marriage of computers to music. This salon gives the visitor a chance to see France's production of musical instruments as well as hear a lot of musicians trying them out.

'MusicMania' is a parallel exhibition featuring today's sounds and Paris' own musical activities. In addition to showing instruments, music is performed in a variety of concerts, from Offenbach to classical, from jazz to children's choirs.

Musicora and MusicMania, at the Grand Halle de la Villette, Porte de Pantin, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. From Friday, 9. April until Monday, 13. April. One entry is good for both salons. The Friday is reserved for professionals at both salons. Public hours are from 10:00 to 19:30; until 18:00 on 13. April.

Part of Musicora takes place at the nearby Cité de la Musique. Info. Tel. for Musicora: 01 49 53 27 00. Info at the Web site for MusicMania.

brochure: les merovingiens expoClovis Boo-Boo - or 'Paris et les Mérovingiens' is a brochure I just picked up at the Hôtel de Ville reception bureau, and only now see that it was made for two parallel exhibitions in 1996. What was once in a single location is now scattered around Paris; in the Panthéon, in the Musée du Petit Palais, at the National Antiquities Museum at Saint-Germain-en-Laye, at Fontainebleau, at Versailles, in Carnavalet and other places a bit further away.

This is the worst 'miss' I have ever given an exhibition and I wouldn't mention it all, except the brochure for it is available, and is a handy reference to the time of Clovis (481-511), and up to Dagobert (629-639), generally considered to be France's first kings, although they originated in the Rhineland.

14th Paris Film Festival - this festival is often overlooked, but from Tuesday, 6. April until Monday, 13. April, it will be holding premieres for seven full-length feature films, which will be subject to a jury selection. For the public, the daily showing will be at 11:30, and the 'stars' will show up for autograph sessions at 12:45 and 14:00 daily. Including the 50 other non-competing films, all of this takes place at the Gaumont Marignan, 27. Avenue du Champs-Elysées, Paris 8. Info. Tel.: 01 45 72 96 40.

La Légende de Saint Julien l'Hospitalier - by Gustave Flaubert is a play, directed by Christian Rist. Flaubert was a bit depressed when he wrote this in 1877, with the title of 'Trois Contes,' so it has been around awhile. At the Théâtre de l'Aquarium, at the Cartoucherie in the Parc Floral in the Bois de Vincennes. From the métro, there is a shuttle bus. Until 18. April, Tuesday to Saturday at 20:30 and on Sundays at 16:00. Resa Tel.: 01 43 74 99 61, or tickets at fnac outlets.

Preview: Salon de Maquette 1999 - this 20th annual edition kicks off on Saturday, 3. April and continues until Sunday, 11. April. Models are not what they used to be and you can see what they are like now, regardless of your age. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles. Expect to see a feature on this in Metropole, as I never pass this one up.

The above are new or coming events. Below are events already mentioned in this column; minus the ones that have left the scene. Also below, are some of this week's new posters and other images so take a skim anyway.


200 Years of Lithos - is a new exhibition featuring the short but revolutionary history of a modern form of art expression. At the Bibliothèque Historique, 22. rue Malher, Paris 4. The exhibition continues until Sunday, 4. April. Hours for the exhibition are daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00 and from 12:00 to 19:00 on Sundays. Info. Tel.: 01 44 59 29 60.

Spring Is Expected Now - and Parc Floral is having a spring bud show until 18. April. For this season, Paris has published a new edition of 'Les Jardins de Paris,' which is the practical program to the city's guided tours of its parks and gardens. The 70-page booklet is free and also contains information concerning visits for the deaf and those whose sight is not tip-top.

This booklet can be found in the reception areas of all Paris' 20 city halls - the Mairies of the arrondissements - and at the Paris Tourist Office on the Champs-Elysées. Your first stop should be the Parc Floral de Paris, out at Vincennes.

Festival International Exit - There is more to 'Exit' than you think. There is theatre, there is dance, there is 'Performance' with Kung Fu and there is 'Installation' with a 'Cabinet des Curiosités.' Finally, there is 'Asian Club' from London, with Joi, Pathaan, Bobby Friction, Round Eye, and Mo'Magic, among others.

'Exit' is a performance festival, starting on Thursday, 25. March and continuing until Saturday, 3. April. Mo'better information may be on the Web site, or you can try the Info. Tel.: 01 45 13 19 19. At the Maison des Arts et de la Culture André Malraux, Place Salvador Allende, in Créteil. Métro: Créteil-Prefecture.

Molière et Lully - has two alternate titles of 'Le Sicilien' or 'L'Amour Peintre' and it is put on by the Théâtre de l'Impossible under the direction of Robert Bensimon. What might be giddy performances, are on Thursday, Friday and Saturday, at 18:00; beginningposter: theatre cartoucherie Thursday, 25. March and continuing until Sunday, 17. April. This takes places at the Théâtre Mouffetard, 73. Rue Mouffetard, Paris 5. Métro: Monge. Info. Tel.: 01 43 31 11 99.

Festival de l'Imaginaire - seems like a logical follow-up to the proceeding, and it has Chinese opera, Korean dances, African and Japanese stuff; as well as 'Vilokan' from Haiti and a Qawwali ceremony from Pakistan and a Riho de Mestia choir from Georgia, which is not the one in the US.

The Festival de l'Imaginaire has a Web site as well as an Info. Tel.: 01 45 44 72 30, to get the complete program. For reservations, call fnac at 01 45 44 41 42. At La Maison des Cultures du Monde, 101. Boulevard Raspail, Paris 6. This festival has already begun, but it continues until mid-April; so you haven't missed everything exotic yet.

A Demain Cette Nuit - is described as 'like' an 'impossible' rendezvous. If you've been to and survived the three events above, I can believe it. The best thing about this piece of musical and dancing Dada is that it comes to us thanks to Le Preau and the Centre Dramatique National located in Basse-Normandie.

Performances of 'A Demain Cette Nuit' begin on Tuesday, 23. March and continue until Saturday, 10. April; at the well-known Café de la Danse, 5. Passage Louis-Philippe, Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. This is the one you get to by taking the Rue de la Lappe and turning off at number 21. No show on Sundays. Tickets from fnac or Info. Tel.: 01 40 21 70 70.

'Saint- Pétersbourg/Vavin - is about the first lot of 'Russians' artists to invade Paris. From Vasilieff, Chagall, Soutine, Orloff, Zadkine and all the others, here are 40 of their works.

Many came from Saint Petersburg and stayed first at the atelier-village of La Ruche, to form the first 'Ecole de Paris.' Later they took over the area of the Champagne-Première and danced at the Bal Bullier.

A parallel exhibition features the little-known Slovenian artist and photographer, Veno Pilon. He began at the Beaux-Arts in Florence and washed up in Paris in 1926. From the remains of the eastern empires, he settled into the Montparno melting pot with ease - and recorded it in line, portraits and photographic halftones - the terraces and the artists.

Musée du Montparnasse, 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. The Russian show continues until 1. August. Open Wednesday to Sunday from 13:00 to 19:00. Entry: 20 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

Today's Russians in Issy - this is how the announcement begins about our second lot of Russians - which is about the celebration of the 200th anniversary of Alexandr Pushkin's birth, which Issy intends to do in a big way until Sunday, 11. April.

Issy-les-Moulineaux gets this honor because of the many Russians who settled in the area after the Revolution. The show will be a double one: rare books illustrated by Russian artists and a hundred portraits by 36 painters. You will need to clear up what will be where - between Issy's Médiathèque and the Musée Française de la Carte à Jouer.

L'Age d'Or de la Céramique Chinoise - is a public exhibition of the private collection known as the Meiyintang Collection, and it features 99 selected pieces from the beginning of the Sui dynasty in 581 to the period of the Yuan dynasty, or about 1368. This show is a concentrated version of a wider show of the collection, mounted in London in 1994. The show's catalogue has been written by the well-known authority, Regina Krahl.

Musée Cernuschi, 7. Avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers. Open from 10:00 to 17:40 daily except Mondays. Info. Tel.: 01 45 63 50 75.

Autour de l'Ordonnence de Villers-Cotterêts - In August of 1539, the Chancellor of François 1st composed a general order concerning justice and the police. For goodposter: musicmania, musicora measure, two articles of this order - the 110th and 111th - also laid down the rules for the usage of the French language for the writing and editing of administrative, judicial and notarial laws or decrees.

The original of this document is on show at the Archives Nationales, Musée de l'Histoire de France, Hôtel de Soubise, 60. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. Closed Tuesdays; open Monday to Friday, from 12:00 to 17:45; and weekends from 13:45 to 17:45. Entry: 20 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 40 27 62 18.

The '10th Biennale de Danse' goes on in 20 towns with 50 performances, in the Val-de-Marne until Friday, 16. April. For the complete program, dates and locations, Info. Tel.: 01 46 86 70 70, or hit the Web site.

Last Days: Cent Ans d'Histoire de Paris - Is an exhibition about the efforts of the 'Commission du Vieux Paris' to save old Paris before the bulldozers turn it into first rubble, then into designer-formed concrete. Along the way, the Commission pushes Paris' history back 5,000 years, by showing a 7,000-year-old pot, found in a local building site.

Hôtel de Ville, Salle Saint-Jean, 5. Rue de Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. Until Tuesday, 31. March. From 11:00 to 19:00 daily, except Mondays. No entry charge. Exhibition catalogue available.

Last Chance: Tout sur Chéreau, Genet, Koltès - features their films, their plays and their documentaries; all at the Magic Cinéma under the heading of 'Théâtres au Cinéma.' Until Tuesday, 30. March. At the Magic Cinéma, Rue du Chemin Vert, in Bobigny. Info. Tel.: 01 41 60 12 34.

50 Créateurs de Mode - These 50 fashion designersbrochure: celui qui a dit non have put together a collective of nine boutiques and called it the 'Espace Créateurs' - which you can find in the Forum des Halles, near the Porte Berger and one floor down. Open from 11:00 to 19:00, from Monday to Saturday.

'Vivre Paris' - is an exhibition featuring 30 artists from Latin America who live and work in Paris. From the description, 'grand masters' are placed beside upcoming 'young Turks' and varying styles are placed edge to edge.

Latin-American artists have a long history of coming to Paris for inspiration, and art historian Patrick Vyvyan in Santiago is currently working on a series of articles for Metropole, detailing their history here - watch for them soon.

'Vivre Paris' can be seen at the Fondation Electricité de France's Espace Electra, 6. Rue Récamier, Paris 7. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone. Until Sunday, 18. April. Info. Tel.: 01 53 63 23 45.

Banlieues Bleues '99 - If you like the Blues and you don't mind the 'Burbs, then you'll want to take in all or some of the 16th edition of Banlieues Bleues which takes off in various locations in Seine-Saint-Denis. This festival features 57 groups and lasts for six weeks, until Friday, 16. April. This is a lota Blues and a lota Banlieues!

Besides individual entries, there are combo tickets available. For reservations or more information, Info. Tel.: 01 49 22 10 10, or Fax.: 33 1 49 22 10 11.

David Hockney's 'Espace / Paysage' at Beaubourg - This is Hockney's first reappearance in Paris since 1974. This exhibition scenes of the Grand Canyon represented with a panoramic collage of panels, 12 metres wide by three high.

Metropole reader John McCulloch has shot similarbrochure: celui de gaulle scenes around Las Vegas with a digital camera, and these can be seen on his Web site right now.

The Hockney show continues until Monday, 26. April; from 10:00 to 22:00. Closed Tuesdays. This is in Beaubourg's Galerie Sud. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 46 25.

The The Pompidou Centre - AKA Beaubourg: is open from Monday to Friday, from 11:00 to 18:00 and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. Info Tel.: 01 53 01 86 53 and Fax.: 33 1 42 72 97 47.

At the Maison Européenne de la Photo you can see the 'Courant Continu' show by Ralph Gibson as well as the 'Portraits - Réel/Virtuel' exhibition by Catherine Ikam and Louis Fléri. On show until Sunday, 30. May. The address is 5-7. rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 75 07.

The 23rd Paris International Marathon: - The Marathon de Paris - is to be run next week, on Sunday, 4. April 1999. It's a bit late to register, but try the fax number 33 -1 41 33 15 69, or give the Web site a hit.

This marathon is the big one for those who like marathons which start on the Champs-Elysées and end up in the Avenue Foch after running the regulation international distance, through Paris.

Long-Running Exhibitions, Shows and Events:

Les Rues de Paris au XVIIIe Siècle - 'As seen by Louis Sébastien Mercier.' A few years before the Revolution, the writer Louis Sébastien Mercier (1740-1814) ploughedpainting: expo mercier carnavalet the streets of Paris, threaded his way through the crowds, looked in shop windows, observed the work of artisans, heard the cries of street vendors - 'for 30 years.'

'Scène de Foire' - Musée Carnavalet © PMVP

Not content with this, he set it all down in his 'Tableau de Paris,' written between 1781 and 1789. In 12 volumes with 1,050 chapters. He knows whether Parisians were eating cakes, bread or nothing. He went on the write a science-fiction novel, set in the year 2,440.

Paris' history museum, the Musée Carnavalet, is going to be showing a selection of Mercier's works - reduced to 8,000 pages - along with a whole assembly of paintings, household objects and even pots and bones dug up by the Vieux Paris commission.

Musée Carnavalet - Histoire de Paris - from Thursday, 18. March until Sunday, 20. June. 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Open Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 17:40. Entry: 35 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

Le Théâtre du Châtelet - will not reopen until October of this year, but the reception area of the Hôtel de Ville now has an exhibition featuring the history of Châtelet and the theatre. This exhibition is certainly worth a look even if there is no entry charge and it is open daily from 9:30 to 18:00, except on Sundays and public holidays. This exhibition continues until 15. May. At the Salon d'Accueil, 29. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 4.

Un Ami de Cézanne et Van Gogh; le Docteur Gachet. This exhibition is at the Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais, until Monday, 26. April. Open daily except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 20:00; on Wednesdays until 22:00. Reservations required for visits before 13:00. Tickets available at fnac, Virgin and Carrefour. Resa Info. Tel.: 08 03 80 88 03.

The Centre Culturel Suisse: - is a small but busy establishment in the Marais, which promotes Swiss culture. It also has temporary exhibitions and the next one will be of Michel Huelin's 'paintings and vidéo.' This exhibition runs until 6. June. In parallel, there is also an exhibition at the Galerie Zürcher, which runs until 8. April.

Centre Culturel Suisse, 38. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul. Open Wednesday to Sunday, from 14:00 to 19:00. Info. Tel.: 01 42 71 38 38. Galerie Zürcher, 56. Rue Chapon, Paris 3. Open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 11:00 to 19:00.

Georges Pompidou - was instrumental in creating new links between the state and culture, especially in the area of contemporary art - for which Paris has the Pompidou Centre, currently undergoing extensive renovations. However, until Sunday, 18. April, there is an exhibition demonstrating the 'art-links' instituted by President Pompidou, at the Jeu de Paume, right beside the Place de la Concorde. Check opening times: Info. Tel.: 01 47 03 12 50.

Paris' Musée d'Art Moderne - Mark Rothko at the Museum of Modern Art - 70 works are on display, done between 1935 and 1969. This amounts to a span of work covering 34 years and it is arranged in chronological order; so you can see either where the artist was going or where he came from. Until Sunday, 18. April.

Musée d'Art Moderne, 11; Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Place de l'Alma. Open Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 to 17:30 and on weekends from 10:00 to 18:45. Info. Tel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

The Musée Zadkine - Pierre-Claude de Castro and Alain Sonneville want you to see their 'Strange Beds.' These two nighttime museum guards have some sort of exhibition which features their after-work fold-up or down beds, mixed with administrative notes about their jobs, all under the subhead of 'Inactions Interpassives.' In short, it's all Dada!

Musée Zadkine, 100. bis, Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Vavin or RER, Port Royal. Except Mondays, open from 10:00 to 17:30.

Laves Emaillées - Prolongation - until Sunday, 2. May. See them in the atelier of Ary Scheffer, at the Musée de la Vie Romantique, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Pigalle. Except Mondays, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Historic Writer's Route - is a tour of 12 famous French writer's homes, located west of Paris on both sides of the Seine valley, as far as Normandy. Even if you don't actually visit the houses, this would be a good trip and would probably take a couple of days of wandering around.

Those on the Seine route are Tourgueniev, Dumas, Zola, Maeterlinck, Michelet, Corneille, Flaubert, Hugo, and Jean de la Varende down at Le Chamblac near Broglie.

There may be more information about it on the Web site of the Ile-de-France regional council, but in the quick look I took I didn't find anything except for a note that the site was undergoing changes.

Royal Paintings: - There is an exhibition of a collection of 48 paintings grouped together for the first time. Some of these are for royal decor, and Rubens was among the 'decorators.' This is at the Musée ducatalogue: musees de france, multimedia Château de Fontainbleau. The main museum is closed on Tuesdays and open from 9:30 to 12:30, and from 14:00 to 17:00 all other days. Info. Tel.: 01 60 71 50 70.

Closed - Temporarily - The Maison de Balzac is currently closed for renovations. It will reopen on Thursday, 20. May. The museum's library remains open until Saturday, 3. April; then it will close until 18. September. Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Info. Tel.: 01 42 24 56 38.

Scheduled Eclipse Not Yet Sold Out: - Seats may not be available for the scheduled eclipse of the sun by the moon, on Wednesday, 11. August, between 12:16 and 12:32, but there's still plenty of standing room in Rouen and Reims and 4,998 other towns and villages, where it will be a rare total one.

In Paris, the eclipse will be only 90 percent, which is not too shabby considering this is about the maximum amount of sun we ever see. This sort of celestial event has not occurred since 1724. If you are having trouble deciding to catch this one, the next eclipse is programmed for 2081. If you are an eclipse collector, book your flight today!

Some of the above items have been carried over for many issues of this magazine. If you require more information - such as addresses or phone numbers - check 'All Past Issues' either from here, or from the top or bottom of any page in the magazine.

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