When in Paris, Do Morocco

photo: moorish arch, concorde

Almost 'Tales of the Alhambra' parked beside the Obelisk.

Plus Egypt and the 'Monde Arabe' As Well

Paris:- Saturday, 10. April 1999:- One evening a couple of days ago, TV-news decided to show me workmen constructing a moorish arch in the Place de la Concorde. This didn't seem too odd, in light to the recent installation of Ousmane Sow's 'Battle of the Little Big Horn' on the Pont des Arts - mentioned below.

I stored this information away to save it for a photo opportunity, and somehow my brain 'translated' moorish arch into something or other Egyptian. TV-news is a bit unreliable these days - sometimes seeming to be a PR show for NATO - so I guess there was something 'Egyptian' as well, but I don't remember.

The arch, which is not mentioned in any newspapersphoto: detail of arch I have, does have something to do with 'Maroc - les Trésors du Royaume' which is an exhibition about to begin, on Thursday, 15. April.

More than 400 works will be on display - from Morocco's long prehistory to the Islamic period. A final part of the exhibition will deal with European painters who worked in Morocco in the late 19th century, such as Matisse and Dufy.

'Le Temps du Maroc' - from 15. April until 18. July - can be visited at the Petit Palais, Avenue du Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. Except Monday, open from 10:00 to 17:40; to 20:00 on Thursdays. Catalogue available. Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

L'Art Egyptien au Temps des Pyramides - is probably what stuck in my subconscious. By total coincidence, this exhibition which started last week is across the street from Morocco in the Petit Palais, at the Grand Palais.

Paris exists in a fever of Egyptomania so it is easy to confuse everything from North Africa, although Morocco is about as far from Egypt as it is possible to get in style. Also, while Morocco has its prehistory part, this is the only concern with the Egyptian exhibition, which focuses on the time of the pyramids - from 2700 to 2100 BC.. This is one of the 'big shows' and exhibits have been borrowed from the Louvre, the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Royal Ontario Museum.

L'Art Egyptien - at the Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais, Square Jean Perrin, Paris 8. Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. Closed on Tuesdays, otherwise reservations are required for visits from 10:00 to 13:00 - no reservations required from 13:00 to 20:00; 22:00 on Wednesdays. Entry: 56 francs with reservations, 50 francs without. Catalogue available. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

L'Autre Rive - is the current exhibition at thephoto: musee du monde arabe Institut du Monde Arabe, which I visited for the first time last week. This exhibition focuses on Lebanon and its '12 civilizations,' from the time of the Phoenicians - about 3000 BC - up to the time of the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century. Until Friday, 30. April. Open daily except Monday, from 10:00 to 18:00; on Saturday until 20:00. Entry: 45 francs, with tickets at the Institut or at fnac outlets.

Institut du Monde Arabe, 1. Rue des Fosses-Saint-Bernard, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu, Sully-Morland or Cardinal-Lemoine. Also in courtyard: under a tent-top, an Arabian souk and a Lebanese restaurant. Access for the handicapped. Info. Tel.: 01 40 51 38 38.

David Hockey - Dialogue avec Picasso - is a small exhibition I should have mentioned earlier, as it has been running for a long time at the Musée Picasso. The good news is that the 20-odd works on display will be around until Monday, 3. May. Musée Picasso, 5. Rue Thorigny, Paris 4. Métro: Filles du Calvaire or Saint-Paul. Except Tuesdays, from 9:30 to 18:00. Info. Tel.: 01 42 71 25 21. See below for David Hockney's 'Espace / Paysage' at Beaubourg.

Around the Death of Richard, the Lion-Heart - is actually about the original document for the peace treaty between Richard the Lion-Heart andphoto: richard the lion heart Philippe Auguste, concluded at Louviers on 15. January 1196. The exhibition also includes related documents and other graphic souvenirs.

At the Archives Nationales, Musée de l'Histoire de France, Hôtel de Soubise, 60. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. Closed Tuesdays; open Monday to Friday, from 12:00 to 17:45; and weekends from 13:45 to 17:45. Until Monday, 31. May. Entry: 20 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 40 27 62 18.

Musicora and MusicMania - for its 15th edition, this salon gives the visitor a chance to see France's production of musical instruments as well as hear a lot of musicians trying them out.

'MusicMania' is a parallel exhibition featuring today's sounds and Paris' own musical activities. In addition to showing instruments, music is performed in a variety of concerts, from Offenbach to classical, from jazz to children's choirs.

Musicora and MusicMania, at the Grand Halle de la Villette, Porte de Pantin, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. Until Tuesday, 13. April. One entry is good for both salons. The Friday is reserved for professionals at both salons. Public hours are from 10:00 to 19:30; until 18:00 on 13. April.

Part of Musicora takes place at the nearby Cité de la Musique. Info. Tel. for Musicora: 01 49 53 27 00. Info at the Web site for MusicMania.

The above are new or coming events. Below are events already mentioned in this column; minus the ones that have left the scene. Also below, are some of this week's new posters and other images so take a skim anyway.


Little Big Horn On the Pont des Arts - 11 near-full-size horses and 28 people are African sculptor Ousmane Sow's representation of the principal actors of the Battle of the Little Big Horn.

The Pont des Arts makes a good gallery; there is a lot of light, except at night. The bridge is a good open-air hang-out spot, and Ousmane Sow's sculptures make it very lively - his figures are very dynamic and strong.

This outdoor show is not only free, but you get to cross the Seine at the same time. The official opening day for the public was on Saturday, and the figures will remain in place until Thursday, 20. May. If you are in Paris, don't miss it.

La Poste is getting ready for its Philexfrance 99 exhibition in July with a three-stampphoto: le poste: 'art' block, named 'Chefs-d'oeuvre de l'Art.' This block features the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo and Delacroix' La Liberté, on a sheet with the Chatte de Bastet. The face price of 50 francs also includes a pass to the exhibition.

'La Poste's' services for philatelists are accessible by the Web to interested collectors. La Poste offers information about its subscription service in English, German, Spanish and Italian, in addition to French. La Poste also accepts payments made with Visa or Mastercard.

Jean Racine 1699-1999 - gets a big remembrance in the Yvelines department this spring, with theatre, conferences, tours, an exhibition and concerts being staged. For details of the full program, try the Web site for the Ile-de-France, which is not the same as the one mentioned in earlier issues.

In addition to the city of Paris, the Ile-de-France is composed of seven other departments. Yvelines gets mentioned a lot because of Versailles and Saint Germain-en-Laye, but the biggest department, Seine-et-Marne gets mentioned only seldom, even though it is the location of our local Disneyland. Check out the Web site for details.

La Légende de Saint Julien l'Hospitalier - by Gustave Flaubert is a play, originally titled, 'Trois Contes.' Directed by Christian Rist. At the Théâtre de l'Aquarium, at the Cartoucherie in the Parc Floral in the Bois de Vincennes. From the métro, there is a shuttle bus. Until 18. April, Tuesday to Saturday at 20:30 and on Sundays at 16:00. Resa Tel.: 01 43 74 99 61, or tickets at fnac outlets.

Molière et Lully - has two alternate titles of 'Le Sicilien' or 'L'Amour Peintre' and it is put on by the Théâtre de l'Impossible under the direction of Robert Bensimon. What might be giddy performances, are on Thursday, Friday and Saturday, at 18:00; until Sunday, 17. April. This takes places at the Théâtre Mouffetard, 73. Rue Mouffetard, Paris 5. Métro: Monge. Info. Tel.: 01 43 31 11 99.

Musée Française de la Photographie - is not in Paris but in Bièvres. There is a train line running through Bièvres, between Versailles-Chantiers and Massy-Palaiseau, but the museum is a good 1700 metres from the station.

But if you are brave enough to look this up on a map, then you are brave enough to go and see the exhibition of photos by Chrystèle Lerisse, which starts on Saturday and continues until 20. July. Although there will be 60 photos on view, all shot between 1995 and 1998, they will be presented in the format of the negative: six by six centimetres. If adventure is your game, the address is 78. Rue Paris, Bièvres. Info. Tel.: 01 69 35 16 50.

L'Age d'Or de la Céramique Chinoise - is a public exhibition of the private collection known as the Meiyintang Collection, and it features 99 selected pieces from the beginning of the Sui dynasty in 581 to the period of the Yuan dynasty, or about 1368.

Musée Cernuschi, 7. Avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers. Open from 10:00 to 17:40 daily except Mondays; until 27. June. Info. Tel.: 01 45 63 50 75.

Le Béton à Paris - you might not think reinforced-cement would be particularly interesting, but you might not be a cement fan. 'Béton is on show now. I have no start or end date for this, but it is at the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Avenue Morland, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland. Info. Tel.: 01 42 76 33 97.

The '10th Biennale de Danse' goes on in 20 towns with 50 performances, in the Val-de-Marne until Friday, 16. April. For the complete program, dates and locations, Info. Tel.: 01 46 86 70 70, or hit the Web site.

'Vivre Paris' - is an exhibition featuring 30 artists from Latin America who live and work in Paris. From the description, 'grand masters' are placed beside upcoming 'young Turks' and varying styles are placed edge to edge.

Latin-American artists have a long history of coming to Paris for inspiration, and art historian Patrick Vyvyan in Santiago is currently working on a series of articles for Metropole, detailing their history here - watch for them soon.

'Vivre Paris' can be seen at the Fondation Electricité de France's Espace Electra, 6. Rue Récamier, Paris 7. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone. Until Sunday, 18. April. Info. Tel.: 01 53 63 23 45.

photo: eaux musicales, versaillesBanlieues Bleues '99 - If you like the Blues and you don't mind the 'Burbs, then you'll want to take in all or some of the 16th edition of Banlieues Bleues which takes off in various locations in Seine-Saint-Denis. This festival features 57 groups and lasts for six weeks, until Friday, 16. April. This is a lota Blues and a lota Banlieues!

Besides individual entries, there are combo tickets available. For reservations or more information, Info. Tel.: 01 49 22 10 10, or Fax.: 33 1 49 22 10 11.

David Hockney's 'Espace / Paysage' at Beaubourg - This is Hockney's first reappearance in Paris since 1974. This exhibition scenes of the Grand Canyon represented with a panoramic collage of panels, 12 metres wide by three high.

The Hockney show continues until Monday, 26. April; from 10:00 to 22:00. Closed Tuesdays. This is in Beaubourg's Galerie Sud. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 46 25.

The The Pompidou Centre - AKA Beaubourg: is open from Monday to Friday, from 11:00 to 18:00 and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. Info Tel.: 01 53 01 86 53 and Fax.: 33 1 42 72 97 47.

At the Maison Européenne de la Photo you can see the 'Courant Continu' show by Ralph Gibson as well as the 'Portraits - Réel/Virtuel' exhibition by Catherine Ikam and Louis Fléri. On show until Sunday, 30. May. The address is 5-7. rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 75 07.

Long-Running Exhibitions, Shows and Events:

Attention: Romans! - In Rome, residents can get a Paris museum pass, which allows free entry to most the city's museums - not the national museums - and of course it works in reverse for Parisians too. However, to get the 'Carte Paris-Rome' you need to be able to prove residence, so this is not for everybody. I for one, will have to pay to get into the Mercati Traianei e Foro di Traiano.

Les Hommes - in 100 films, at the Forum des Images - continues until 29. June. This is in the Forum des Halles, by the Porte Saint-Eustache entry, Paris 1. Info. Tel.: 01 44 76 62 00.

'Saint- Pétersbourg/Vavin - is about the first lot of 'Russians' artists to invade Paris. From Vasilieff, Chagall, Soutine, Orloff, Zadkine and all the others, here are 40 of their works.

Many came from Saint Petersburg and stayed first at the atelier-village of La Ruche, to form the first 'Ecole de Paris.' Later they took over the area of the Champagne-Première and danced at the Bal Bullier.

A parallel exhibition features the Slovenian artist and photographer, Veno Pilon. He began at the Beaux-Arts in Florence and washed up in Paris in 1926, to settle into the Montparno melting potphoto: sophocle with ease - and he recorded it in line, portraits and photographic halftones - the terraces and the artists.

Musée du Montparnasse, 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. The Russian show continues until 1. August. Open Wednesday to Sunday from 13:00 to 19:00. Entry: 20 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

Les Rues de Paris au XVIIIe Siècle - 'As seen by Louis Sébastien Mercier.' In the years before the Revolution, the writer Louis Sébastien Mercier (1740-1814) ploughed the streets of Paris, threaded his way through the crowds, looked in shop windows, observed the work of artisans, heard the cries of street vendors - 'for 30 years.'

Merrcier set it all down in his 'Tableau de Paris,' written between 1781 and 1789, in 12 volumes with 1,050 chapters. He knows whether Parisians were eating cakes, bread or nothing.

Paris' history museum, the Musée Carnavalet, is showing a selection of Mercier's works - reduced to 8,000 pages - along with a whole assembly of paintings, household objects and even pots and bones dug up by the Vieux Paris commission.

Musée Carnavalet - Histoire de Paris - until Sunday, 20. June. 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Open Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 17:40. Entry: 35 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

Le Théâtre du Châtelet - will not reopen until October of this year, but the reception area of the Hôtel de Ville now has an exhibition featuring the history of Châtelet and the theatre. This exhibition is certainly worth a look even if there is no entry charge and it is open daily from 9:30 to 18:00, except on Sundays and public holidays. This exhibition continues until 15. May. At the Salon d'Accueil, 29. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 4.

The Musée de la Poupée - the Doll Museum - is hidden at the end of a dead-end alley, about two minutes' walk from the Pompidou Centre. The current special exhibition features rabbits and other long-eared 'objects' - until 30. May.

There is also a permanent exhibition of over 300 dolls, dating from 1850. These are presented in 36 scenes, along with model period furniture. The boutique features items made especially for the museum, and has doll parts for collectors as well as general doll souvenirs.

The current temporary exhibition features 'Lapins' with the subtitle, toys and objects with long ears. This continues until Sunday, 30. May.

Musée de la Poupée, Impasse Berthaud, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. Except Monday, open daily from 11:00 to 18:00. Boutique next door. From the east side of the Rue Beaubourg, turn into the alley, where you will see signposts for the museum. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Un Ami de Cézanne et Van Gogh; le Docteur Gachet. - this exhibition is at the Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais, until Monday, 26. April. Open daily except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 20:00; on Wednesdays until 22:00. Reservations required for visits before 13:00. Tickets available at fnac, Virgin and Carrefour. Resa Info. Tel.: 08 03 80 88 03.

Georges Pompidou et la Modernité - The late President was instrumental in creating new links between the state and culture, especially in the area of contemporary art - for which Paris has the Pompidou Centre, currently undergoing extensive renovations. However, until Sunday, 18. April, there is an exhibition demonstrating the 'art-links' instituted by President Pompidou, at the Jeu de Paume, right beside the Place de la Concorde. Check opening times: Info. Tel.: 01 47 03 12 50.

Paris' Musée d'Art Moderne - Mark Rothko at the Museum of Modern Art - 70 works are on display, done between 1935 and 1969. This amounts to a span of work covering 34 years and it is arranged in chronological order; so you can see either where the artist was going or where he came from. Until Sunday, 18. April.

Musée d'Art Moderne, 11; Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Place de l'Alma. Open Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 to 17:30 and on weekends from 10:00 to 18:45. Info. Tel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Laves Emaillées - Prolongation - until Sunday, 2. May. See them in the atelier of Ary Scheffer, at the Musée de la Vie Romantique, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Pigalle. Except Mondays, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Historic Writer's Route - is a tour of 12 famous French writer's homes, located west of Paris on both sides of the Seine valley, as far as Normandy. Even if you don't actually visit the houses, this would be a good trip and would probably take a couple of days of wandering around. There may be more information about it on the Web site of the Ile-de-France.

Musée Rambolitrain - may be an odd name, but it is one of the very few model train museums around. It has more than 4,000 engines and wagons and 400 metres of tiny tracks. According to the photos, there are also steam trains for riding, and a special weekend for them is planned for Mayday. Open on holidays, but otherwise open from Wednesday to Saturday, from 10:00 to 12:00 and from 14:00 to 17:30. Entry for big people is 22 francs and for normal people from four to 12 it is 14 francs. In Rambouillet, 4. Place Jeanne d'Arc. Info. Tel.: 01 34 83 15 93.

Closed - Temporarily - The Maison de Balzac is currently closed for renovations. It will reopen on Thursday, 20. May with an exhibition entitled 'L'Artiste Selon Balzac.' The museum's library has closed until 18. September. Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Info. Tel.: 01 42 24 56 38.

Hats Off for Scheduled Eclipse: - Hats will not be necessary for the scheduled eclipse of the sunphoto: musee europeen photo by the moon, on Wednesday, 11. August - between 12:16 and 12:32 - which will be total in Rouen and Reims and 4,998 other towns and villages.

Poster for the Maison Européenne de la Photo.

In Paris, the eclipse will be only 90 percent-full, which is not too shabby considering this is about the maximum amount of sun we ever see. This sort of celestial event has not occurred since 1724. If in doubt about this worthwhile event, the next eclipse is programmed for 2081. If you are indifferent to eclipses, plan to see a movie instead.

Some of the above items have been carried over for many issues of this magazine. If you require more information - such as addresses or phone numbers - check 'All Past Issues' either from here, or from the top or bottom of any page in the magazine.

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