Good, Clean Fun

photo: quick terrace, champs elysees

No entry charge for having lunch on
a Champs-Elysées sidewalk.

Theatre, Music, Pools, Kid Stuff

Paris:- Friday, 2. July 1999:- All Parisians leaving the city deserted for the summer may have once been a true myth, but it is not the case today. It may be difficult to find an open 'Pressing' after 15. July, but the sales will still be on and you can buy yourself a clean shirt. It may even be a nifty shirt.

There are fewer snazzy restaurants open and some other shops will be closed, but the authentic and original 'amusement park' that is Paris will be definitely open and waiting for you. You can walk on the grass or take a siesta on it - it's your choice. Below, and on the companion 'High Life' page, a condensed list of some of the attractions:

On Stage, Live!

Theatre - 'Les Misérables' - this will be the summer's second most original event after the eclipse; Denis Llorca's staging of 'Les Mis' in the original and Roman Arènes de Lutèce. Entry by way of the Rue de Navarre, Paris 5. Until Saturday, 24. July at 19:00 - except on the 7, 8, 11 and 18. July. Info. Tel.: 01 44 90 00 96.

Theatre - Comédie Française - alternating are Gogol's 'Revizor,' Goethe's 'Faust,' Molière's 'Femmes Savantes' and Scapin's 'Fourberies;' until Saturday, 24. July. On Wednesday, 14. July, entry to a 14:00 matinee of 'Revizor' will be free. Allphoto: la piscina at 2. Rue de Richelieu, Paris 1. From Monday to Saturday, at 20:30, Sundays at 14:00 and 20:30. Info. Tel.: 01 44 58 15 15.

Theatre - Odéon - Théâtre de l'Europe - Molière's 'Précieuses Ridicules,' tastely revised by Deschamps-Deschiens, from now until Wednesday, 14. July. Except Monday, at 20:00 and on Sunday, at 15:00. Place de l'Odéon, Paris 6. Info. Tel.: 01 44 41 36 36.

Dance - Swan Lake - in a cold decor by Enzio Frigerio, Rudolf's 'Paris' ballet will have a few performances at the Opéra Bastille, on Tuesday, 6. July to Friday, 9. July, plus Monday, 12. July and Thursday, 15. July. All at 19:30. Info. Tel.: 08 36 69 78 68. Tickets are pricey.

Dance - 'La Sylphide' - Pierre Lacotte's successful resurrection of this flower of romanticism, plays at the Opéra Garnier - 'the' opera, with its 'face' under renovation scaffolding - from Tuesday 6. July to Saturday, 10. July and on Monday, 12. July and Tuesday, 13. July; at 19:30. Free matinee on Thursday, 15. July at 15:00. Info. Tel.: 08 36 69 78 68. Tickets are pricey.

Dance - Mon Paris - originally Lully's baroque opera 'Phaëton,' now transformed into 'modern' baroque by Karine Saporta of the Opéra de Lyon, with costumes by Sylvie Skinazi and sets by Jean Bauer. Within the 'Paris Quartier d'Eté' program, at the Palais Royal, Paris 1. Métro: Palais Royal/Musée du Louvre. Wednesday, 21. July to Friday, 23. July; at 22:00. Info. Tel.: 01 44 94 98 00.

Dance - Bali In Paris - five dancers and ten musicians from the South Pacific, put on an enchanting 'Le Royaume Oublié.' As above, 'Paris Quartier d'Eté' festival, from Tuesday, 27. July to Friday, 30. July. Place, time and Info. Tel. as above. Unique entry price too: 80 francs.

Dance - Hip Hop Meets Classical - 'Récital' is the name of the piece concocted by Mourad Merzouki, with dancers dressed in dreams and moorish-andalusian music by Frank II Louise. Same festival as above, same address, same hour; dates are from Tuesday, 3. August to Thursday, 5. August. Info. Tel.: 01 44 94 98 00.

Dance - 'Europa' - from the summer session in Grasse, a score of young dancers doing their best next-to-professional efforts with creations by Balanchine, Duato and others. From Monday, 9. August to Thursday, 12. August. Also part of the 'Paris Quartier d'Eté' festival.

Theatre - Hamlet On the Road - plus 'Kasko' - the first by the Volcan Bleu and the secondphoto: resto runtz by the 'Tréteaux du Niger' - followed by a picnic and a 'bal.' This is also part of the 'Paris Quartier d'Eté' festival, put on at the Square Sorbier, Paris 20. 'Kasko' runs from Monday, 19. July until Saturday, 24. July and Hamlet in its 'road' version from Tuesday, 27. July until Saturday, 31. July. All performances at 21:30. Info. Tel.: 01 44 94 98 00.

Theatre - Commedia dell'Arte - Carlo Bosso beings farce to Paris with performances of the 'Folie d'Isabelle,' 'Amants de Vérone,' 'Farces de Tabarin,' 'Il y Avait une Foire' and 'Piazza Senile.' In the Arènes de Montmartre, Rue Chappe, Paris 18. Until Saturday, 31. July and from Monday, 23. August to Sunday, 19. September. Dail at 20:30 except 11 and 25. July and 1. August. Info. Tel.: 01 48 40 62 49.

Theatre - Boulevard - modern authors with their comedies, play through the summer at the Théâtre du Palais Royal, 38. Rue Montpensier, Paris 1. Info. Tel.: 01 42 97 59 81 - and at the Gaité-Montparnasse, 26. Rue de la Gaité, Paris 14. Info. Tel.: 01 43 27 75 75.

Theatre - Roundup Time: - this would be as long as the weekly 'Scene' itself if everything were included. The following are theatres where top performances are scheduled: Théâtre 14, Info. Tel.: 01 45 45 49 77; the Flèche d'Or Café, Info Tel.: 01 42 58 29 66; Théâtre Gérard-Philipe, Info Tel.: 01 48 13 70 00; Théâtre Hébertot, Info Tel.: 01 43 87 23 23; Offenbach at the Théâtre Silvia-Monfort, Info Tel.: 01 45 31 10 96; the Splendid, Info Tel.: 01 42 08 21 93; and Le Funambule, Info Tel.: 01 42 23 88 83. If you've heard of Lola Montès but don't really know, see her 'Vie Imprévisible' at the Théâtre Le Ranelagh, 5. Rue des Vignes, Paris 16. Info Tel.: 01 42 88 64 44.

Bike Roll to Rue de Pool

Les Vélos - the métro operator, RATP, gets into the bike act with 'Roue-Libre' at the Forum des Halles, Concorde, the 13th, in the Bois de Boulogne and out at Saint-Germain-en-Laye. Find Bike and Roller at 137. Rue Saint-Dominique in the 7th and at 6. Rue Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre in the 5th. Paris Vélo is at 2. Rue du Fer-à-Moulin, also in the 5th. Right beside the Port de l'Arsenal at Bastille on thephoto: la playa, sa tuna Boulevard Bourdon is where you'll find Paris à Vélo C'Est Sympa! Bicloune likes to sell bikes more than rent them, but has some VTCs to go; at 93. Boulevard Beaumarchais, Paris 3. Bouticycle has tandems and strollers from babies at 11. Rue Fénelon, Paris 10.

Paris Cycles is at the Bois de Vincennes and in the Bois de Boulogne. For the Parc Saint-Cloud, go to the Grande Gerbe to find La Vélocipèderie. Many of the city places have guided tours as well.

Les Rollers - Don't bring yours, rent some here: at Spot On, 7. Rue des Innocents, by the fountain, Paris 1. The sporting goods shop Décathalon has rollers at 26. Avenue de Wagram, Paris 8, while Roller Station is right on the Champs-Elysées at number 66. Another sports shop, GO Sport, has rollers at 10. Place de la République, Paris 11. Find Ilois 4 on the Allée Vivaldi in the 12th, near métro Daumesnil. Down in the 15th, look for Totem at 14. Rue Beaugrenelle. In the upscale 16th, the place to look for is Vertical Line at 60 bis, Avenue Raymond-Poincaré, near Trocadéro. Europe's roller park bigger than Texas is at Vitry-sur-Seine, 100. Rue Léon-Geoffrey, with 6000 squares metres for roller madness. Try the RER 'C' line.

Les Piscines, Playa Paris: - at the racetrack, the Piscine d'Auteuil, in the Bois de Boulogne; two pools and sunbath; Route des Lacs à Passy. La Butte-aux-Cailles, historic triple-pools; 5. Place Paul-Verlain, Paris 13. Dim inside, sun outside at Boulogne-Billancourt; 165. Rue du Vieux-Pont-de-Sèvres. Nice pool but fake grass at Puteaux; Ile de Puteaux, near La Défense. These are not all the pools there are, but the ones where you can get some soleil as well as your feet wet.

Paris Likes Kids

Kids of All Ages - will find something interesting at five of Paris' big sites: the Louvre, the Musée d'Orsay, the Musée Bourdelle and at the Palais de la Découverte, with sculpture at Bourdele inviting the widest range, from four to 15 years. Louvre Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 52 09. Orsay Info. Tel.: 01 40 49 48 38. Musée Bourdelle Info. Tel.: 01 49 54 73 73. Découverte Info. Tel.: 01 40 74 81 73.

The fifth location is the Cité des Sciences which has several special summer projects plus its regular ateliers for young folks - including an introduction to eclipses. 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. Info. Tel.: 01 40 05 12 12.

Suddenly, or so it seems to me, sport fishing has reappeared as an activity in the Paris area. How to catch 'em is something dad may have forgotten, so a week at the Maison de Pêche on the Ile de la Jatte may provide a vital lesson in life, for 600 francs; with equipment, without lunches. At 22. Allée Monet, on the island at Levallois. Info. Tel.: 01 47 57 17 32.

Until the end of July, there are a couple of theatres or circus-like shows at the Théâtre Astral in the Parc Floral, near métro Château de Vincennes. Info. Tel.: 01 42 41 88 33. Until the end of August, for six-year olds, there is a 'best of' show at the Espace Delta, also at the Parc Floral. Info. Tel.: 01 43 43 92 95. Try the Espace Château-Landon, 31. Rue du Château-Landon, Paris 10 - for clowns. Info. Tel.: 01 46 07 33 27. Pirates and adventures are available to four-year olds, by the Seine, just in front of the BNF at Tolbiac. Until the end of July. Allée Arthur-Rimbaud, Quai François-Mauriac, Paris 13. It's anniversary time at La Roche-Guyon fortress just outside Paris, by reservation only. Info. Tel.: 01 34 79 74 42.

Fruit, Veg, Truck Gardens and how their stuff grows are handled in two places; the Jardin d'Acclimatation in the Bois de Boulogne, Info. Tel.: 01 40 67 90 82; and there are farm animals at the Ferme du Piqueur, at the Domaine de Saint-Cloud. For the three to 12 years-old as well as for whole families. Info. Tel.: 01 46 02 24 53.

Starving Artists Do Street Stuff - they may get licenses or be completely free of papers; street performers are all over Paris, doing their shows in the open air, on open sidewalks - and you pay what you think the show is worth unless you are a rotten cheapskate. Some Parisians pay, and some pay all the time. You are allowedphoto: pop and baby in the pool to pay the musicians performing in the métro trains too, but should be aware that their performances are usually short - some, far too short.

Extra Facilities - are often, but not always, available for handicapped people. The new métro line 14 has been built with elevators and some sites are equipped with special entries to provide access for all. Even if it's a side door around the corner, it's better than nothing. There are some facilities for the blind, in addition to the talking crosswalks at Denfert-Rochereau. Taking Paris as a whole, there probably isn't much; but there's no reason to stay away because there's more than nothing at all. For people without handicaps, there are some very long and steep sets of stairs - so save yourself energy whenever possible and take any available escalators.

All photos©Erickson
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