Haring's Doodles

photo: marco polo fountain

Different scenes for different people. Paris fits all comers.

In This Weather, Palms Are Tops

Paris:- Saturday, 24. July 1999:- - This week I thought I would be merrily cutting this page down to a reasonable size as the 'Big Shows' packed up their canvases and the summer doldrums set in.

But no! Skylight cinemas, Morocco at the Divan du Monde until dawn and the annual 'Paris Quartier d'Eté all over town are on show or performing somewhere, nearly non-stop. Anything to keep us away from TV re-runs and new wars.

Keith Haring - 'Made in France' - shows how far you can get with kid stuff if the experts call it art instead of doodles. It is funny enough, so I say it's art too. Haring worked a lot in Paris too. See the exhibition until 22. September at the Fondation Dina Vierny, Musée Maillol, at 59-61. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Rue du Bac. Info. Tel.: 01 42 22 59 58.

'Palmiers' - Between Sun and Shade - is an wildly sublime palm tree exhibition I visited early in June and wrote about as 'The Year-Round Winter Garden.' I have been reminded that this exhibition is continuing until Sunday, 10. October. At the Jardin des Serres d'Auteuil, 3. Avenue de la Porte d'Auteuil, Paris 16. Open daily from 10:00 to 19:00. Métro: Porte d'Auteuil or Michel-Ange Molitor. Info. Tel.: 01 40 71 76 07.

brochure: aout au cineAoût au Ciné - is a special deal that starts on Sunday, 1. August. It allows the under-25s entry to 150 independent cinémas in Paris for 25 francs. Find the little brochure at any one of Paris' 21 city halls, stick your photo on it and hide out watching the movies and eating popcorn until Tuesday, 31. August.

Drive-In Movies, Without Cars - it's outdoor movie time again out at the prairie of the 'Triangle' at the Parc de la Villette. European productions will be the main features. Bring your own popcorn, and an umbrella just in case. From Tuesday to Sunday at 22:00; until Sunday, 29. August. If the 'Triangle' is where I think it is, the nearest métro is Porte de Pantin. Info. Tel.: 08 03 30 63 06 or 08 07 50 75.

Action, Music, Boris Vian! - before the evening's movie, there are two shows featuring the works of Boris Vian. One is a musical show, with music and words by Boris - who nearly single-handedly 'invented' post-war Saint-Germain-des-Prés - until 3. October. The other is a life-exploits exhibition of this 'celebrated pataphysicist.' Both at the Grand Halle de la Villette, in the Espace Charly Parker, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurés, Paris 19.Info. Tel.: 08 03 30 63 06 or 08 07 50 75.

More Villette, More Fun - this time it is 'bals' and concerts at the 'Kiosque à Musique' - every Sunday starting at 17:30, until 22. August. As for the nightsky movies, there is no entry charge. About the same location, same Info Tel, as the above items.

Yves Mikaeloff Meets Kids - and likes telling them what his artistic installations are about, but talks about almost everything else too. Until 30. September, at the Orangerie in the Parc de Bercy, 31. Rue Paul-Belmondo, Paris 12. Métro: Bercy. For the exact times, call Info. Tel.: 01 53 46 19 04.

Raphaël & les Marsouins - is about Raphaël beating everybody else to Mars and the Martians he meets there. For kids, from three to nine years old. Tuesday to Friday, at 14:30; until 3. September. At the Petit Hébertot, 28 bis, Boulevard des Batignolles, Paris 17. Métro: Rome or Villiers. Info. Tel.: 01 44 70 06 69.

Papa Wemba's 'Viva la Musica' - is a one-night stand at the Elysée Montmartre on Saturday, 31. July; starting at 23:00 and running until dawn. At 72. Boulevard Rochenchouart, Paris 18. Métro: line 2's Anvers is closed, so it's either Pigalle or Barbés.

'La Route de la Art' - is the Fondation Colas' way of saying thankyou for using the autoroutes they build, by way of an art collection leaning towards landscapes featuring highways. If you haven't a car at the moment, this may be a show for you. At the Fondation Colas, in beautifulposter: colas 'route de l'art' Boulogne-Billancourt, at 7. Place René Clair. Métro: Porte de Saint-Cloud, and take Avenue G. Lafont and bear right at Avenue Buisson into a modern complex of offices. The Place René Clair may be a round affair.

Summer In Paris - a Selection:

Summer Festivals Everywhere - are featured on Télérama's Web site, after clicking on 'Festivals.'

The Armada du Siècle - is over but also has a paint show in the form of 'Autour de Claude-Joseph Vernet - La Marine à Voile - 1650-1890.' Vernet was charged with cataloguing ports and 30 of his paintings are on show along with others by Eugéne Boudin, Camille Corot and Gustave Courbert. See these until 15. September. Musée des Beaux-Arts, 1. Place Restout, Rouen. Info. Tel.: 01 40 13 46 75.

Abstract Summer - is now on the walls at Beaubourg with the exhibition of Robert Delaunay's hyper-cunning color sorties. Spots of round, twisted Tour Eiffels, all in eye-popping color, and all painted before 1914. This is not any second-hand stand-by exhibition, but one for a major talent; a show to make you stand up and put on your sunglasses.

The Pompidou Centre - AKA Beaubourg:- is mostly closed, but the part that's open, is open from Monday to Friday, from 11:00 to 18:00 and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. The exhibition continues until Monday, 16. August. Hours for it are given as daily, from 10:00 to 22:00. Info Tel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

On the Road? - if so, drop in on the Balthus exhibition at Dijon, Tintoret at Agen or the Médicis' treasure at Blois. Respectively at the Musée des Beaux-Arts in the Palais des Etats de Bourgogne, the Beaux-Arts d'Agen and the Château de Blois.

Did I Mention - the Paris Jazz Festival at the Parc Floral de Paris? I've now found a tiny mention of it in Paris' magazine 'Paris le Journal.' The dates are - 'every' Saturday at 16:30, until 25. September - and the concerts are free and no less good because of it. The 30th birthday of the Parc Floral also marks the 6th edition of its Festival 'Classique au Vert,' which features free concerts on Sundays at 16:30. 'Les Pestacles' are on every Wednesday at 14:30 for children from three to ten. Métro: Château de Vincennes. Info. Tel.: 01 43 43 92 95.

1 Monde Réel - the Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain was created in 1984 and since 1994 has been in its present location. The current exhibition asks itself the question about 'the dialectical relations and infinite riches between imaginary and act, known and unknown territories, present and dream, experience of the real and fiction.' In other words, this is a science fiction show because its objects were created by artists instead of engineers.

Trust me - this stuff is pretty good and may well give you a good laugh or two, which I think is permitted - if not necessary.

Until 14. November. Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain, 261. Boulevard Raspail, Paris 14. Métro: Raspail or Denfert-Rochereau. Except Mondays, open daily from 12:00 to 20:00. Info. Tel.: 01 42 18 56 51.

Domingo de la Rumba - Every Sunday in July and August, check into rumba rhythms at the Divan du Monde at 19:00 to take an hour's course in salsa followed at 20:00 by an hour's course in salsa to finish off with a final hour's course in salsa beginning at 21:00. Afterposter: 'noites do brasil' divan du monde the evening's third course of salsa and if you are still standing, feet twitching, the air-conditioned joint stays open until dawn, serving platos typicos, and muchos musicas along the lines of 'noches de Cuba y América Latina.'

The Divan du Monde Does Morocco - in addition to 'Domingo de la Rumba,' above, the Divan du Monde also has 'Bab el Baraka,' which is Moroccan culture. Music and dance, but also displays of crafts and specialty foods. From Tuesday to Saturday, until 11. September; from 20:30 to 5 in the morning. At the Divan du Monde, 75. Rue des Martyrs, Paris 18. Métro: Abbesses, and walk down. Info. Tel.: 01 44 92 77 66.

Visit the Opéra(s) - is an invitation to view the insides of their buildings. If you like late 19th century bombast worthy of Hollywood, you'll like the real thing at the Palais Garnier, which is at métro Opéra. The Opéra Bastille is at métro Bastille and is in a modern building and I don't know anything about its interior, except it is somewhat techno. Visits to both are daily and begin at 13:00. You must bring nine friends and make reservations in advance by calling 01 40 01 25 14. Entries are 60 and 45 francs.

Molière et Ses Médecins: - is a musical-comedy by Molière, directed by Rosine Margat with choreography by Virginie Tocque. Starts on Tuesday and runs until 29. August. No show on Mondays in July; none on Monday to Wednesday in August; weekdays at 20:30 and Sundays at 15:30. See it at Le Tambour Royal, 94. Rue du Faubourg du Temple. Paris 11. Métro: Belleville or Goncourt. Tickets at fnac, Virgin, Kiosque and agencies. Info. Tel.: 01 48 06 72 34.

Fête des Loges: - has been playing in the forest of Saint-Germain every year at this time since - oh - decades? four-scores? of years and this year is no exception. The forest it is in is pretty old too. This is a 'Fête Foraine' so don't dress up and make sure your small coins are safe before taking some of the rides. There is a combo price of 125 francs, which is good for 18 rides, or 18 goes on one ride. 14 Restaurants, 150 attractions. Fête des Loges, Saint-Germain-en-Laye. Western terminus of RER line 'A.'

Amusement Parks - are all open. They include France Miniature which is miniature France, the Mer-de-Sable which is Paris' closest outdoor Sahara, Parc Asterix which is all about France's oldest and shortest hero and his fat pal, and Disneyland Paris which used to be called Euro-Disneyland until it was discovered that 'Euro' doesn't sell but 'Paris' does. In the order above, Info. Tels. the minis at 08 36 68 52 35, dunes away at 03 44 54 00 96, 03 44 62 34 34 for Obelix and 01 60 30 60 30 for Mickey and his many friends. Ah, the reason for this is: each park has new attractions.

Métro Closed: - the elevated part of line two of the métro Porte Dauphine-Nation is closed for renovations between the stations of Belleville and Blanche until Saturday, 28. August. A free bus is available, to fill the gap caused by the seven closed stations, but residents say this substitute is a shambles. Take this into consideration for connections at Pigalle, Barbés, La Chapelle, Stalingrad, and Colonel Fabien.

Eclipsomania!

This is the 30th week that the 'Eclipse' has been mentioned here; the first time was in the year's first issue. Long accorded a low-key treatment, this coming August's eclipse is now getting the rapid-roto promo - especially for warnings about wearing the special glasses you normally can't see anything through.

So I warn you: sunglasses, even multiple layers of them, are not enough. If you do intend to - look - at the eclipse, bephoto: official eclipse shades, stan sure to be wearing proper eye protection. Ski glasses are not sufficient. The proper shades are widely available in Paris for very modest prices. Buy them, use them.

''Ciel une Eclipse' - the Hôtel de Ville's reception area has been turned into an eclipse exhibit. The title of the exhibit either means an 'eclipse in the sky' or 'Heavens! An Eclipse.' Astronomers think eclipses are grand occasions for viewing moons, planets and suns; but this year the general public is invited too, because a near-total eclipse is combined with the last or second-last year of a millennium.

This summer's eclipse is scheduled for Wednesday, 11. August, at lunchtime between 12:16 and 12:34. It will not be total in Paris. For total, go to Chantilly or Senlis, to the north.

Since the next eclipse after this one will not be until 2081, to find out more about this one or to get prepared to view it, check out the following Web sites: the Université de Strasbourg, the Institut de Mécanique Céleste and one known simply as the 'Eclipse Solaire '99.'

Salon d'Acceuil, Hôtel de Ville, 29. Rue de Rivoli,Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. Open daily except for Sundays and holidays, from 9:30 to 18:00. No entry charge for the eclipse exhibition, which continues until 25. September. A free brochure about the eclipse is available.

Solaire - is a current, and free, exhibition at the Observatoire de Paris. It is a great chance to see the inside of this building which is open only rarely. Did you know our planet is speeding along in 'our' galaxy at the rate of 250 kilometres per second? Find out more about 'our' sun and the eclipse at the Observatoire de Paris, 61. Avenue de l'Observatoire, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau or RER Port Royal. Robot Info. Tel.: 01 40 51 21 74.

The Palais de la Découverte - is getting into the eclipse act too, with a series of exhibits, displays, and a planetarium visit, all concerning heavenly activities surrounding this otherwise free celestial show. Palais de la Découverte, Avenue Franklin Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: Franklin Roosevelt. Open 9:30 to 18:00 from Tuesday to Saturday; from 10:00 to 19:00 on Sundays. Entries, 30 or 45 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 40 74 80 00.

L'Etoile - is 'Star' in English and another scene of eclipse mania, but down deep underground in the RER station where there is an inflated planetarium; in which astronomers answer spacy questions, via a 3-D voyage 'on the Internet.'" In this way, you can relive an eclipse in 'only' ten minutes, 'thanks to a video.'

The 'quotes' above are there because when I say 'mania,' I don't think we've seen the whole extent of it yet. Would you, the average hard-core eclipse fan, really want to 'relive' one in an underground urban transport station inside an inflated planetarium, via video beamed down through cement, the métro, and earth by means of the Internet? You would?

If s, isn't it lucky Paris has just the thing for you? The Etoile is in Paris 8, handy to the Champs-Elysées, where it might be interesting to see what night looks like at noon.


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