...Continued from page 1

Long-Range Planning Dept - in past years, during the chaos of the 'rentrée' in September, I have managed to remain supremely unaware of two early-early-September events.

'Les Fêtes de la Seine' - start on Thursday, 2. September and continue until Sunday. Last year I think this was only on one Sunday, but Paris is upgrading its river to be a water-sport-and-leisure attraction, so this year the festivities will last for four days.

Starting as a one-day event, a 'Fête des Jardins' is scheduled, I think for the first time, for Sunday, 12. September. Watch this space for details.

Festival Times

Chien Cru - Cirque Bâtard - the Cie Cahin Caha presents a melange of French formality and American 'roughness' in this show featuring three performing artists and three circus artists; part French and part American. This 'raw dog of pure beef' starts in mid-July and continuesposter: herbertot, 'raphael & les marsouins' until 4. September. From Wednesdays to Saturdays, at 20:00, in the Espace Chapitaux, Parc de la Villette, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette.

Renan by Nadar At Issy - there is an exhibition of about 30 photographic portraits by Nadar, of his contemporaries, at the Musée Français de la Carte à Jouer. The connection is Ernst Renan, who grew up in Issy, and was born three years after Gaspard Félix Tournachon, who was known as Nadar - an extraordinary character, who Renan thought, ended up as a refugee in the 'Botany Bay' of photography. Other faces on show are Dumas, Hugo, George Sand, Balzac and Thiers.

Musée Français de la Carte à Jouer, 16. Rue Auguste Gervais, Issy-les-Moulineaux. Métro: Mairie de Issy. Until 28. November; open on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays, from 10:00 to 19:00.

More Photographs - are on view in an exhibition lasting until 5. September which features Roland Topor, Helmut Newton, Alice Springs, Roberto Pellegrinuzzi and Charles Matton. At the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

Beneath the Maps - maps can contain more information than may be apparent, and for this reason they were once jealously guarded by those in power. A history of maps, especially those of Paris, are featured in all their details in a current exhibition lasting until October at the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Pa ris 4. Métro: Sully Morland. Info. Tel.: 01 42 76 33 97.

Theatre In the Green - Four shows will be presented outside, weather permitting, between now and 3. October. 'Une Chaise Anglaise' will be on until 29. August; on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday. 'Volpone' runs concurrently starting on 31. July, from Tuesdays to Saturdays, also until 29. August. To close, there will be Shakespeare's 'Peines d'Amour Perdu,' from 4. September to 4. October, on Saturdays and Sundays. All in the magical Shakespeare Garden, within the Jardin du Pré-Catelan, Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Info. Tel.: 01 40 19 95 33.

Hommage à Moustapha Dimé - will feature an Senegalese pal of Ousmane Sow's, who lived on the island of Gorée, out in the Atlantic off the coast of Dakar. Dimé, who died in 1998, is not as well-known as Sow but was picking up prizes for his sculptures at Johannesburg and at the Biannual of Venice. See the present exhibition at the Hôtel de Ville's Salle Saint-Jean, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. The hours are from 11:00 to 19:00 daily except Mondays, until 19. September.

Demures - is the name of the new exhibition at the Musée Zadkine. This exhibition of sculpture will continue until 17. October. At the Musée Zadkine, 100 bis, Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Open daily from 10:00 to 17:30, except Mondays.

Posters by Jacques Nathan-Garamond - if you like dramatic and good posters like I do, this is an exhibition to see; and this sort of graphic show is a specialty of this city library. Until Saturday, 31. July at the Bibliothèque Forney, Hôtel de Sens, 1. Rue Figuier, Paris 4.. Métro: Pont-Marie or Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 42 78 14 60.

Les Perles de Bahrein-Dilmoun: - is one of a continuing series of exhibition being staged at the Institut du Monde Arabe, to round-out Paris' 'Ottoman' season. I caught mention of the preceding 'Liban, l'Autre Rive' just as it ended, and have been a bit slow to mention this one - which continues until 29. August.

Dilmoun comes to us as the general name of a civilization which began 5,000 years ago and flourished between 2,500 and 1,200 BC. Study of this civilization only started 30poster: papa wemba, elysee montmartre or 40 years ago. After being asleep for a long time, Bahrein flourished again under the name of 'Tylos' from 300 BC to 400 AD. Almost forgotten, but now on view at the Institut du Monde Arabe, 1. Rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard, Paris 5. Info. Tel.: 01 40 51 38 38.

Fêtes de Nuit - is the name of Versailles' super spectacular fireworks displays, traditionally put on every summer. Okay, there's dancing and music too, plus special effects and water stuff, all to make you think of the good old Louis' days when taxpayers stood in long lines to see the royal show. Coming dates are 28. August, 4. and 11. September at 21:30. Tickets are from 70 to 250 francs. Info. Tel.: 08 03 80 88 03. Check out Spectacles au Château for more details.

Seine Cruising; Bike Cruising

Rent-a-Bike - details about the RATP's 'Roue Libre' and other bike rental possibilities are included in a previous 'Scene' column.

Vélo Taxis - the Vélo Taxis are stationed in the Place de la Concorde by the Tuileries - and follow a fixed one-hour route in the bike lanes, around the centre of Paris, on both banks on the Seine. The fare is 90 francs for one and 130 francs for two, which is a heck of a good deal if your feet are flat and tired.

Batobus - the city's bus on the Seine is something to think about trying if your feet get tired from walking beside it. Down on the water there is a different view too. All-day tickets are not overly expensive and allow getting on and off as often as you wish. From the Tour Eiffel to Saint-Michel there are about four landings and there are two on the right bank at the Hôtel de Ville and the Louvre.


The Big Shows:

Paris' Ottoman Summer

Paris is celebrating the 700th anniversary of the Ottoman Empire, which started with Sultan Mehemet II in Constantinople. 'Ottoman' here, includes an Egyptian show, and a whole raft of exhibitions concerning Morocco.

Meknès Gate at Concorde - was featured in issue 4.15. Its full name is 'La Porte de Meknès Bab El Mansour.' Its 3000 square metres of complex decor has being recreated by Catherine Feff - in France - but is inspired directly from the original at Meknès. More details about Paris' 'Temps du Maroc' can be found on the Web site.

'L'Art Ottoman' is mainly a show of photographs currently on at the Trianon de Bagatelle. Objects from various collections make up the show as well as an exhibition by 70 photographers, who have rendered Istanbul in all of its variety.

Trianon de Bagatelle, Parc de Bagatelle, Route de Sèvres, Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Métro: Pont de Neuilly and then bus 43 for the rest of the way. This exhibition continues until 1. August. Entry to the park is 10 francs, and to the Trianon, 28 francs.

Les Trésors du Sultan Topkapi à Versailles - is a sample of Topkapi's collection, going back through centuries to the treasures of Suleiman, the First as well as the Magnificent. At the Château, continuing until... when? Info. Tel.: 01 30 84 74 00.

Maroc, l'Esprit de l'Eau - is a new exhibition about water in Morocco, which is a country without much of it; but has an artistic history of it all the same. Perhaps less 'artistic,' because this show is at the Cité des Sciences, 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. Until 7. November; from 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays, until 19:00 on Sundays. Info. Tel.: 01 40 05 80 00.

Other Big Shows:

Claude Monet's 'Nymphéas' - features the 'Waterlilies,' which are 22 wall panels especially done for l'Orangerie and installed in 1927. The current show includes dozens of other complimentary paintings by Monet and as such is unique to Paris, because the 'Nymphéas' are too large and fragile to travel. At the Musée de l'Orangerie in the Tuileries Gardens, until Monday, 2. August.

'L'Artiste Selon Balzac' - The 'Maison de Balzac' reopened with a new exhibition of artistic works. On exhibit will be Raphael, done by Ingres, La Fontaine, and Balzac by Picasso, plus science types such as Descartes and Newton; to illustrate Balazc's argument.

It is also the bi-centenary of Balzac's birth - which was on 20. May 1799 - so the Web has swung into gear. In addition to the Web site above you may want to take a look at this other one, to see complete texts and illustrations. These amounted to, at his death, 10,816 pages in 97 volumes.

The exhibition continues until 5. September. The museum's library is currently closed, but will reopen on 19. September. Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Info. Tel.: 01 42 24 56 38.

Long-Running Exhibitions, Shows and Events:

Jean Moulin, 1899-1943 - This is a special exhibition, on the occasion of the anniversary of Jean Moulin's birth. It is more biographical detailed than the permanent exhibit. At the Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris et Musée Jean Moulin, Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Until 2. January 2000, daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. Catalogue available, 80 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

Hommage à Jean Marais - is an exhibition about this famous French actor, which continues until 5. September. Musée de la Vie Romantique, 16. Rue Chaptel, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

The Musée de la Poupée - the Paris' doll museum has an exhibit of the 'Les Plus Belles' dolls, dating from 1899 to 1957. Many of these are from private collections. These are on show at the museum until 12. September.

Musée de la Poupée, Impasse Berthaud, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. Except Monday, open daily from 11:00 to 18:00. Boutique next door. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

'Saint- Pétersbourg/Vavin - is about the first lot of 'Russians' artists to invade Paris. From Vasilieff, Chagall, Soutine, Orloff, Zadkine and all the others, here are 40brochure: france montgolfieres of their works. The Slovenian artist and photographer, Veno Pilon, is also featured. Pilon recorded the terraces and the artists of Montparnasse in line, portraits and photographic halftones.

Musée du Montparnasse, 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. The Russian show continues until 1. August. Open Wednesday to Sunday from 13:00 to 19:00. Entry: 20 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

Homage à Jean Rigaud - presents 80 years worth of this marine painter's production in an exhibition lasting until 23. August. While you do a tour of this museum, there is also a show called L'Ile au Trésor for kids every Wednesday, starting at 14:45. By reservation only: for the 8-12s, 25 francs. Tel.: 01 53 65 69 53. For the museum, open daily except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 17:50. Musée de la Marine, Palais de Chaillot, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro.

'Le Vagabond du Surréalisme' - is Georges Malkine, considered to be one of the founders of surrealism. At the Pavillon des Arts, Les Halles, Porte Rambuteau, Terrace Lautréamont, Paris 1. Until 29. August. Open from 11:30 to 18:30, except on Mondays and holidays.

Catacombs Photo Show - some Parisians have their bones on permanent view in the Catacombs. These are adorned with pithy signs and some of these can be seen in this exhibition. The texts are not only in French, but in Latin, Greek, Italian and even Swedish - so take a translator. "Arrête! C'est ici l'Empire de la mort," is one example that has been photographed.

The Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. Open from Tuesday to Friday, from 14:00 to 18:00; and on weekends from 9:00 to 11:00 and from 14:00 to 16:00. On view until 14. February 2000, no less.

Musée d'Art Américain - The museum is located in Giverny, near Claude Monet's house and gardens, and can be reached by road via the A13 autoroute. Or take an SNCF train from Saint-Lazare to Vernon. The museum is open from 10:00 to 18:00, except on Mondays. Info. Tel.: 02 32 51 94 65.

Jean Racine 1699-1999 - gets a remembrance in the Yvelines department this summer, with theatre, conferences, tours, an exhibition and concerts being staged. For details of the full program, try the Web site for the Ile-de-France.

Historic Writer's Route - is a tour of 12 famous French writer's homes, located west of Paris on both sides of the Seine valley, as far as Normandy. Even if you don't actually visit the houses, this would be a good trip and would probably take a couple of days of wandering around. See the Web site above.

'Painting After Abstraction, 1955 to 1975' is the current exhibition. It features Martin Barré, Jean Defottex, Raymond Hains, Simon Hantaï and Jacques Villeglé. Until Sunday, 19. September.

Musée d'Art Moderne, 11; Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Place de l'Alma. Open Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 to 17:30 and on weekends from 10:00 to 18:45. Info. Tel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Some of the above items have been carried over for many issues of this magazine. If you require more information - such as addresses or phone numbers - check 'All Past Issues' either from here, or from the top or bottom of any page in the magazine.

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