I Thought Paris Was Closed In August

photo: grande arche, la defense

From the steps of the Grande Arche at Le Défense,
the view is large but unexciting.

Escape Eclipsomania at the Photo Expos

Paris:- Saturday, 31. July 1999:- The 'Ottoman' season in Paris is nearly over, as I discovered last Wednesday when I went to take another look at the Meknès Gate at Concorde, which was first featured in Metropole's issue 4.15. All that was left is its spindly skeleton.

Le Parc de la Villette - in Paris' northeast 19th arrondissement has a variety of summer-only attractions in addition to its year-round Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie, Grande Halle, Zenith concert hall, and the Cité de la Musique. It doesn't like itself to be referred to as an 'amusement park' but that is exactly what it is - even if it leansbrochure: parc de la villette towards Science! Industry! Culture! Serious Music! - it also has Rock and Circuses! And a Lion Fountain. See this week's 'A Multi-Theme Park' for full details.

In addition to La Villette's activities, there are a large number of photographic exhibitions in Paris this summer, and these have been gathered into one section below. The summer's major event is the Eclipse, and everything about it is also below in one section.

Paris Quartier d'Eté - is all over town with at least a dozen live-performance events daily. Watch for signs of it wherever you are in the city. More than good enough to keep us away from cable-TV re-runs and new TV game shows.

Du Rififi Chez les Hommes - is a movie made by Jules Dassin in 1954 which falls into the 'film noire' or 'polar' category. Re-mastered in black and white, for showing in Paris, starting Friday, 13. August.

Quelques Pas Dans les Etoiles - is an exhibition featuring legends and myths 'between the earth and the heavens,' from the planets and stars. From 10:00 to 13:00 and 15:00 to 18:00 daily except Sunday. At Hermès, 24. Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris 8. Métro: Concorde or Madeleine.

Bazart - is in a new space at Samaritaine's building two on the 5th floor, surrounded by its inner iron architecture. The 'Bazar' features 1600 original works by 32 artists, frombrochure: bazart, samaritaine about 400 to 1000 francs. Self-service, and a framing service is at the same location. From 9:30 to 19:00 Monday to Saturday; Thursday evenings until 22:00. Samaritaine: at métro Louvre and the Pont-Neuf.

'Palmiers' - Between Sun and Shade - is an wildly sublime palm tree exhibition I visited early in June and wrote about as 'The Year-Round Winter Garden.' This exhibition is continuing until Sunday, 10. October. At the Jardin des Serres d'Auteuil, 3. Avenue de la Porte d'Auteuil, Paris 16. Open daily from 10:00 to 19:00. Métro: Porte d'Auteuil or Michel-Ange Molitor. Info. Tel.: 01 40 71 76 07.

Août au Ciné - is a special deal that starts on Sunday, 1. August. It allows the under-25s entry to 150 independent cinémas in Paris for 25 francs. Find the little brochure at any one of Paris' 21 city halls, stick your photo on it and hide out watching the movies and eating popcorn until Tuesday, 31. August.

Keith Haring - 'Made in France' - shows how far you can get with kid stuff if the experts call it art instead of doodles. It is funny enough, so I say it's art too. Haring worked a lot in Paris too. See the exhibition until 22. September at the Fondation Dina Vierny, Musée Maillol, at 59-61. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Rue du Bac. Info. Tel.: 01 42 22 59 58.

Métro Closed: - the elevated part of line two of the métro Porte Dauphine-Nation is closed for renovations between the stations of Belleville and Blanche until Saturday, 28. August. A free bus is available, but has trouble with traffic. Take this into consideration for connections at Pigalle, Barbés, La Chapelle, Stalingrad, and Colonel Fabien. Reach the Place Clichy with métro line 13, Pigalle with métro line 12 and Barbés with métro line 4.

Paris' Photo Summer:

Sam Levin - left behind 600,000 negatives when he died in 1992. This summer, 160 prints in black and white and in color feature many famous people as captured by Levin, including many French and foreign movie stars. The exhibition is on view at the Hôtel de Sully, 62. Rue Saint-Antoine, Paris 4. Métro: Bastille. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:30. Entry: 25 francs. Continues until Sunday, 19. September.

Petits Poèmes Photographiques - Edgar Degas was born at the right moment to live at the time of photography's infancy, and he took it up as an aid for painting and as an end in itself. The Bibliothèque Nationale has two exhibitions, one at 58. Rue de Richelieu and the other around the corner in the Galerie Colbert, at 2. Rue Vivienne; both Paris 2. Métro: Bourse. The first, at Richelieu, from 10:00 to 19:00 until Sunday, 22. August. In the Galerie Colbert, from 12:00 to 19:00 until Saturday, 7. August.

De Flêche en Cime, les Fréres Bisson - brothers who were contemporaries of Nadar, photographed Europe's big monuments, plus the snows of Mont Blanc. At the BN-Mitterrand, Quai François-Mauriac, Paris 13. Métro: Bibliothèque National de France. From 10:00 to 19:00.

Rembrandt - by Charles Matton - who is the director of the film about Rembrandt, which debuts on 8. September. Photographic results of eight months' film production shows the models, sets, decors, actors, with the film's background music. At the same location, portraits by Roberto Pellegrinuzzi shows faces in bone and flesh. Until 26. September.

Portraits Croisés - Us and Them - is an exhibition by Helmut and Alice Springs, aka Mrs Newton. Faces of each other as well as the famous and notorious. Until 12. September.

Topor Rit Encore - with ID photos this illustrator, screenwriter and author laughs again and we laugh with him. Until 12. September.

'Rembrandt,' 'Portraits Croisés' and 'Topor Rit Encore' are all at the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Except Monday and Tuesday, daily from 11:00 to 20:00. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

Les Enfants de Sumer et de Babylone - Doctor turned photographer, Yves Gelie's camera was a witness to the results of the Gulf War in Iraq. At the Institut du Monde Arabe, 1. Rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard, Paris 4. Except Monday, open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. Free entry. Métro: Cardinal Lemoine or Jussieu.

Recycler Pour Survivre - or, the Ladies Who Make Soap, in Burkina Faso, in 40 photos by Susi Lindig. From 9:45 to 17:15, until Tuesday, 31. August. Musée de l'Homme, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro.

1970-1990 - Twenty Years of Photos presented by Frankfurt's DG Bank include 3000 prints by 300 photographers, showing trends in recent photography. 'The Promise of Photography' is at the Centre Nationale de la Photographie, 11. Rue Berryer, Paris 8. Except Tuesday, from 12:00 to 19:00. Métro: George V or Ternes.

'L'Art Ottoman' is mainly a show of photographs currently on at the Trianon de Bagatelle. Objects from various collections make up the show as well as an exhibition by 70 photographers, who have rendered Istanbul in all of its variety.

Trianon de Bagatelle, Parc de Bagatelle, Route de Sèvres, Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Métro: Pont de Neuilly and then bus 43 for the rest of the way. This exhibition continues until 1. August. Entry to the park is 10 francs, and to the Trianon, 28 francs.

Renan by Nadar At Issy - there is an exhibition of about 30 photographic portraits by Nadar, of his contemporaries, at the Musée Français de la Carte à Jouer. The connection is Ernst Renan, who grew up in Issy, and was born three years after Gaspard Félix Tournachon, who was known as Nadar - an extraordinary character, who Renan thought, ended up as a refugee in the 'Botany Bay' of photography. Other faces on show are Dumas, Hugo, George Sand, Balzac and Thiers.

Musée Français de la Carte à Jouer, 16. Rue Auguste Gervais, Issy-les-Moulineaux. Métro: Mairie de Issy. Until 28. November; open on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays, from 10:00 to 19:00.

Catacombs Photo Show - some Parisians have their bones on permanent view in the Catacombs. These are adorned with pithy signs and some of these can be seen in this exhibition. The texts are not only in French, but in Latin, Greek, Italian and even Swedish - so take a translator. "Arrête! C'est ici l'Empire de la mort," is one example that has been photographed.

The Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. Open from Tuesday to Friday, from 14:00 to 18:00; and on weekends from 9:00 to 11:00 and from 14:00 to 16:00. On view until 14. February 2000, no less.

Eclipsomania!

This is the 31th week that the 'Eclipse' has been mentioned here; the first time was in the year's first issue. Long accorded a low-key treatment, this coming August's eclipse is now getting the rapid-roto promo - especially for warnings about wearing the special glasses you normally can't see anything through.

So I warn you: sunglasses, even multiple layers of them, are not enough. If you do intend to - look - at the eclipse, be sure to be wearing proper eye protection. Ski glasses are notphoto: official eclipse shades, willy sufficient. The proper shades - marked with a 'CE' - are widely available in Paris. Do not use substitutes. Get the right ones, use them. Your eyes are worth more than five francs. Many places offer them gratis.

''Ciel une Eclipse' - the Hôtel de Ville's reception area has been turned into an eclipse exhibit. The title of the exhibit either means an 'eclipse in the sky' or 'Heavens! An Eclipse.' Astronomers think eclipses are grand occasions for viewing moons, planets and suns; but this year the general public is invited too, because a near-total eclipse is combined with the last or second-last year of a millennium.

This summer's eclipse is scheduled for Wednesday, 11. August, at lunchtime between 12:16 and 12:34. It will not be total in Paris. For total, go to Chantilly or Senlis, to the north.

Since the next eclipse after this one will not be until 2081, to find out more about this one or to get prepared to view it, check out the following Web sites: the Université de Strasbourg, the Institut de Mécanique Céleste and one known simply as the 'Eclipse Solaire '99.'

Salon d'Acceuil, Hôtel de Ville, 29. Rue de Rivoli,Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. Open daily except for Sundays and holidays, from 9:30 to 18:00. No entry charge for the eclipse exhibition, which continues until 25. September. A free brochure about the eclipse is available.

Solaire - is a current, and free, exhibition at the Observatoire de Paris. It is a great chance to see the inside of this building which is open only rarely. Did you know our planet is speeding along in 'our' galaxy at theposter: libe: 'un ete 99' rate of 250 kilometres per second? Find out more about 'our' sun and the eclipse at the Observatoire de Paris, 61. Avenue de l'Observatoire, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau or RER Port Royal. Robot Info. Tel.: 01 40 51 21 74.

The Palais de la Découverte - is getting into the eclipse act too, with a series of exhibits, displays, and a planetarium visit, all concerning heavenly activities surrounding this otherwise free celestial show. Palais de la Découverte, Avenue Franklin Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: Franklin Roosevelt. Open 9:30 to 18:00 from Tuesday to Saturday; from 10:00 to 19:00 on Sundays. Entries, 30 or 45 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 40 74 80 00.

L'Etoile - is 'Star' in English and another scene of eclipse mania, but down deep underground in the RER station where there is an inflated planetarium; in which astronomers answer spacy questions, via a 3-D voyage 'on the Internet.'" In this way, you can relive an eclipse in 'only' ten minutes, 'thanks to a video.'

The 'quotes' above are there because when I say 'mania,' I don't think we've seen the whole extent of it yet. Would you, the average hard-core eclipse fan, really want to 'relive' one in an underground urban transport station inside an inflated planetarium, via video beamed down through cement, the métro, and earth by means of the Internet? You would?

If so, isn't it lucky Paris has just the thing for you? The Etoile is in Paris 8, handy to the Champs-Elysées, where it might be interesting to see what night looks like at noon.

Festival Polar - is another name for films 'Noir,' essentially US productions made in the '90's. Twenty-five films are on the program, including a few European productions. Until Tuesday, 10. August, at the MK 2 Quai de Seine, 14. Quai de Seine, Paris 19. Métro: Jaurés or Stalingrad. Info. Tel.: 08 36 68 14 07.

Fête des Loges: - has been playing in the forest of Saint-Germain every year at this time since - oh - decades? four-scores? of years and this year is no exception. The forest it is in is pretty old too. This is a 'Fête Foraine' so don't dress up and make sure your small coins are safe before taking some of the rides. There is a combo price of 125 francs, which is good for 18 rides, or 18 goes on one ride. 14 Restaurants, 150 attractions. Continues until Sunday, 15. August. Fête des Loges, in the forest at Saint-Germain-en-Laye, at the western terminus of RER 'A' line.

Amusement Parks - are all open. They include France Miniature which is miniature France, the Mer-de-Sable which is Paris' closest outdoor Sahara, Parc Asterix which is all about France's oldest and shortest hero and his fat pal, and Disneyland Paris which used to be called Euro-Disneyland until it was discovered that 'Euro' doesn't sell but 'Paris' does. In the order above, Info. Tels. the minis at 08 36 68 52 35, dunes away at 03 44 54 00 96, 03 44 62 34 34 for Obelix and 01 60 30 60 30 for Mickey and his many friends. Ah, the reason for this is: each park has new attractions.

In the Tuleries Gardens - you will find the traditional summer amusement attractions in the form of hairy rides for children and adults. For the latter there is a the big ferris wheel, from which there is a good view. Located along the Rue de Rivoli side of the gardens. For cotton-candy fans - which in French is called something like 'Your Old Man's Beard.' Sticky goo!

Summer Festivals Everywhere - are featured on Télérama's Web site, after clicking on 'Festivals.'

The Armada du Siècle - is over but also has a paint show in the form of 'Autour de Claude-Joseph Vernet - La Marine à Voile - 1650-1890.' Vernet was charged with cataloguing ports and 30 of his paintings are on show along with others by Eugéne Boudin, Camille Corot and Gustave Courbert. See these until 15. September. Musée des Beaux-Arts, 1. Place Restout, Rouen. Info. Tel.: 01 40 13 46 75.

Abstract Summer is now on the walls at Beaubourg with the exhibition of Robert Delaunay's hyper-cunning color sorties. Spots of round, twisted Tour Eiffels, all in eye-popping color, and all painted before 1914. This is not any second-hand stand-by exhibition, but one for a major talent; a show to make you stand up and put on your sunglasses.

The Pompidou Centre - AKA Beaubourg:- is mostly closed, but the part that's open, is open from Monday to Friday, from 11:00 to 18:00 and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. The exhibition continues until Monday, 16. August. Hours for it are given as daily, from 10:00 to 22:00. Info Tel.: 01 44 78 12 33.


Continued on page 2...
Go to page : 1 - 2
In Metropole Paris
Latest Issue
2008 Issues
2007 | 2006 | 2005
2004 | 2003 | 2002
2001 | 2000 | 1999
1998 | 1997 | 1996
In Metropole Paris
About Metropole
About the Café Club
Links | Search Site
The Lodging Page
Paris Museums List
Metropole's 1996 Tours
Metropole's 2003 Tours
Support Metropole
Metropole's Books
Shop with Metropole
Metropole's Wine
metropole paris goodblogweek button
Send email concerning the
contents to: Ric Erickson, Editor.
Metropole Midi © 2014
– unless stated otherwise.
logo, metropole sml midi logo No matter how good it tastes,
there is no such thing
as a free lunch.
Waldo Bini