...Continued from page 1

1970-1990 - Twenty Years of Photos presented by Frankfurt's DG Bank include 3000 prints by 300 photographers, showing trends in recent photography. 'The Promise of Photography' is at the Centre Nationale de la Photographie, 11. Rue Berryer, Paris 8. Except Tuesday, from 12:00 to 19:00. Métro: George V or Ternes.

Renan by Nadar At Issy - there is an exhibition of about 30 photographic portraits by Nadar, of his contemporaries, at the Musée Français de la Carte à Jouer. The connection is Ernst Renan, who grew up in Issy, and was born three years after Gaspard Félix Tournachon, who was known as Nadar - an extraordinary character, who Renan thought, ended up as a refugee in the 'Botany Bay' of photography. Other faces on show are Dumas, Hugo, George Sand, Balzac and Thiers.

Musée Français de la Carte à Jouer, 16. Rue Auguste Gervais, Issy-les-Moulineaux. Métro: Mairie de Issy. Until 28. November; open on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays, from 10:00 to 19:00.

Catacombs Photo Show - some Parisians have their bones on permanent view in the Catacombs. These are adorned with pithy signs and some of these can be seen in this exhibition. The texts are not only in French, but in Latin, Greek, Italian and even Swedish - so take a translator. "Arrête! C'est ici l'Empire de la mort," is one example that has been photographed.

The Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. Open from Tuesday to Friday, from 14:00 to 18:00; and on weekends from 9:00 to 11:00 and from 14:00 to 16:00. On view until 14. February 2000, no less.

Festival Polar - is another name for films 'Noir,' essentially US productions made in the '90's. Twenty-five films are on the program, including a few European productions. Until Tuesday, 10. August, at the MK 2 Quai de Seine, 14. Quai de Seine, Paris 19. Métro: Jaurés or Stalingrad. Info. Tel.: 08 36 68 14 07.

Fête des Loges: - has been playing in the forest of Saint-Germain every year at this time since - oh - decades? four-scores? of years and this year is no exception. The forest it is in is pretty old too. This is a 'Fête Foraine' so don't dress up and make sure your small coins are safe before taking some of the rides. There is a combo price of 125 francs, which is good for 18 rides, or 18 goes on one ride. 14 Restaurants, 150 attractions. Continues until Sunday, 15. August. Fête des Loges, Saint-Germain- en-Laye, at the western terminus of RER line 'A.'

Amusement Parks - are all open. They include France Miniature which is miniature France, the Mer-de-Sable which is Paris' closest outdoor Sahara, Parc Asterix which is all about France's oldest and shortest hero and his fat pal, and Disneyland Paris which used to be called Euro-Disneyland until it was discovered that 'Euro' doesn't sell but 'Paris' does. In the order above, Info. Tels. the minis at 08 36 68 52 35, dunes away at 03 44 54 00 96, 03 44 62 34 34 for Obelix and 01 60 30 60 30 for Mickey and his many friends. Ah, the reason for this is: each park has new attractions.

In the Tuleries Gardens - you will find the traditional summer amusement attractions in the form of hairy rides for children and adults. For the latter there is a the big ferris wheel, from which there is a good view. Located along the Rue de Rivoli side of the gardens. For cotton-candy fans - which in French is called something like 'Your Old Man's Beard.' Sticky goo!

Summer Festivals Everywhere - are featured on Télérama's Web site, after clicking on 'Festivals.'

Abstract Summer is now on the walls at Beaubourg with the exhibition of Robert Delaunay's hyper-cunning color sorties. Spots of round, twisted Tour Eiffels, all in eye-popping color, and all painted before 1914. This is not any second-hand stand-by exhibition, but one for a major talent; a show to make you stand up and put on your sunglasses.

The Pompidou Centre - AKA Beaubourg:- is mostly closed, but the part that's open, is open from Monday to Friday, from 11:00 to 18:00 and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. The exhibition continues until Monday, 16. August. Hours for it are given as daily, from 10:00 to 22:00. Info Tel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Did I Mention - the Paris Jazz Festival at the Parc Floral de Paris? I've now found a tiny mention of it in Paris' magazine 'Paris le Journal.' The dates are - 'every' Saturday at 16:30, until 25. September - and the concerts are free and no less good because of it. The 30th birthday of the Parc Floral also marks the 6th edition of its Festival 'Classique au Vert,' which features free concerts on Sundays at 16:30. 'Les Pestacles' are on every Wednesday at 14:30 for children from three to ten. Métro: Château de Vincennes. Info. Tel.: 01 43 43 92 95.

1 Monde Réel - the Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain was created in 1984 and since 1994 has been in its present location. The current exhibition asks itself the question about 'the dialectical relations and infinite riches between imaginary and act, known and unknown territories, present and dream, experience of the real and fiction.' In other words, this is a science fiction show because its objects were created by artists instead of engineers.

Trust me - this stuff is pretty good and may well give you a good laugh or two, which I think is permitted - if not necessary.

Until 14. November. Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain, 261. Boulevard Raspail, Paris 14. Métro: Raspail or Denfert-Rochereau. Except Mondays, open daily from 12:00 to 20:00. Info. Tel.: 01 42 18 56 51.

Domingo de la Rumba - Every Sunday in July and August, check into rumba rhythms at the Divan du Monde at 19:00 to take an hour's course in salsa followed at 20:00 by an hour's course in salsa to finish off with a final hour's course in salsa beginning at 21:00. After the evening's third course of salsa and if you are still standing, feet twitching, the air-conditioned joint stays open until dawn, serving platos typicos, and muchos musicas along the lines of 'noches de Cuba y América Latina.'

The Divan du Monde Does Morocco - in addition to 'Domingo de la Rumba,' above, the Divan du Monde also has 'Bab el Baraka,' which is Moroccan culture. Music and dance, but also displays of crafts and specialty foods. From Tuesday to Saturday, until 11. September; from 20:30 to 5 in the morning. At the Divan du Monde, 75. Rue des Martyrs, Paris 18. Métro: Abbesses, and walk down. Info. Tel.: 01 44 92 77 66.

Molière et Ses Médecins: - is a musical-comedy by Molière, directed by Rosine Margat with choreography by Virginie Tocque. Starts on Tuesday and runs until 29. August. No show on Mondays in July; none on Monday to Wednesday in August; weekdays at 20:30 and Sundays at 15:30. See it at Le Tambour Royal, 94. Rue du Faubourg du Temple. Paris 11. Métro: Belleville or Goncourt. Tickets at fnac, Virgin, Kiosque and agencies. Info. Tel.: 01 48 06 72 34.

Yves Mikaeloff Meets Kids - and likes telling them what his artistic installations are about, but talks about almost everything else too. Until 30. September, at the Orangerie in the Parc de Bercy, 31. Rue Paul-Belmondo, Paris 12. Métro: Bercy. For times, call Info. Tel.: 01 53 46 19 04.

Raphaël & les Marsouins - is about Raphaël beating everybody else to Mars and the Martians he meets there. For kids, from three to nine years old. Tuesday to Friday, at 14:30; until 3. September. At the Petit Hébertot, 28 bis, Boulevard des Batignolles, Paris 17. Métro: Rome or Villiers. Info. Tel.: 01 44 70 06 69.

Long-Range Planning Dept - in past years, during the chaos of the 'rentrée' inposter: fetes de la seine September, I have managed to remain supremely unaware of three early-early-September events.

'Les Fêtes de la Seine' - start on Thursday, 2. September and continue until Sunday. Last year I think this was only on one Sunday, but Paris is upgrading its river to be a water-sport-and-leisure attraction, so this year the festivities will last for four days.

Starting as a one-day event, a 'Fête des Jardins' is scheduled, I think for the first time, for Sunday, 12. September. Watch this space for details.

Paris Sheep Day - Feel like you've been clipped? Then see how French sheep like it on Sunday, 5. September, at the Ferme de Paris. This is just to the west of the Vincennes racetrack, in the Bois de Vincennes, by the Route de Pesage. Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes or Charenton-Ecoles.

Back To Our Regular Program:

Beneath the Maps - maps can contain more information than may be apparent, and for this reason they were once jealously guarded by those in power. A history of maps, especially those of Paris, are featured in all their details in a current exhibition lasting until October at the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Pa ris 4. Métro: Sully Morland. Info. Tel.: 01 42 76 33 97.

Theatre In the Green - Four shows will be presented outside, weather permitting, between now and 3. October. 'Une Chaise Anglaise' will be on until 29. August; onposter: la villette, 'le grand frisson' geode Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday. 'Volpone' runs concurrently, from Tuesdays to Saturdays, also until 29. August. To close, there will be Shakespeare's 'Peines d'Amour Perdu,' from 4. September to 4. October, on Saturdays and Sundays. All in the magical Shakespeare Garden, within the Jardin du Pré-Catelan, Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Info. Tel.: 01 40 19 95 33.

Hommage à Moustapha Dimé - will feature an Senegalese pal of Ousmane Sow's, who lived on the island of Gorée, out in the Atlantic off the coast of Dakar. Dimé, who died in 1998, is not as well-known as Sow but was picking up prizes for his sculptures at Johannesburg and at the Biannual of Venice. See the present exhibition at the Hôtel de Ville's Salle Saint-Jean, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. The hours are from 11:00 to 19:00 daily except Mondays. Now extended until 14. November.

Les Perles de Bahrein-Dilmoun: - is one of a continuing series of exhibition being staged at the Institut du Monde Arabe, to round-out Paris' 'Ottoman' season. This exhibition continues until Sunday, 29. August.

Dilmoun comes to us as the general name of a civilization which began 5,000 years ago and flourished between 2,500 and 1,200 BC. Study of this civilization only started 30 or 40 years ago. After being asleep for a long time, Bahrein flourished again under the name of 'Tylos' from 300 BC to 400 AD. Almost forgotten, but now on view at the Institut du Monde Arabe, 1. Rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard, Paris 5. Info. Tel.: 01 40 51 38 38.

Demures - is the name of the new exhibition at the Musée Zadkine. This exhibition of sculpture will continue until 17. October. At the Musée Zadkine, 100 bis, Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Open daily from 10:00 to 17:30, except Mondays.

Fêtes de Nuit - is the name of Versailles' super spectacular fireworks displays, traditionally put on every summer. Okay, there's dancing and music too, plus special effects and water stuff, all to make you think of the good old Louis' days when taxpayers stood in long lines to see the royal show. Coming dates are 28. August, 4. and 11. September at 21:30. Tickets are from 70 to 250 francs. Info. Tel.: 08 03 80 88 03. Check out Spectacles au Château for more details.

Visit the Opéra(s) - is an invitation to view the insides of their buildings. If you like late 19th century bombast worthy of Hollywood, you'll like the real thing at the Palais Garnier, which is at métro Opéra. The Opéra Bastille is at métro Bastille and is in a modern building and I don't know anything about its interior, except it is somewhat techno. Visits to both are daily and begin at 13:00. You must bring nine friends and make reservations in advance by calling 01 40 01 25 14. Entries are 60 and 45 francs.

Seine Cruising; Bike Cruising

Rent-a-Bike - details about the RATP's 'Roue Libre' and other bike rental possibilities are included in a previous 'Scene' column.

Rent a Bullfrog Bike - four Texas dudes are offering guided bike tours, lasting three to four hours, which stop at everything famous, including cafés. Two tours are available each day; at 10:30 and at 14:30. Find Bullfrog in the middle of the Champ de Mars, by the central fountain. Get a souvenir Bullfrog t-shirt. Join the Bullfrog team for 'flag football' every Tuesday at 18:30, at their bike location. Rah! Rah! Continues until Tuesday, 31. August. Tour price is 120 francs. No credit; no cards accepted. No phone either, but you can write to these good ol' boys at BullfrogBikes@hotmail.com

Vélo Taxis - the Vélo Taxis are stationed in the Place de la Concorde by the Tuileries - and follow a fixed one-hour route in the bike lanes, around the centre of Paris, on both banks on the Seine. The fare is 170 francs for a one-hour tour for two, and 100 francs for a 30-minute one-way trip to the Tour Eiffel. This is a heck of a good deal if your feet are flat and tired. There are usually one or two stationed at Concorde, but there are many in reserve - for group excursions. Info. Tel.: 01 47 42 00 01.

Batobus - the city's bus on the Seine is something to think about trying if your feet get tired from walking beside it. Down on the water there is a different view too. All-day tickets are not overly expensive and allow getting on and off as often as you wish. From the Tour Eiffel to Saint-Michel there are about four landings and there are two on the right bank at the Hôtel de Ville and the Louvre.


Paris' Ottoman Summer

Paris has been celebrating the 700th anniversary of the Ottoman Empire, which started with Sultan Mehemet II in Constantinople. Except for the item below, this series of exhibitions is nearly over. One is still listed with last week's feature about the multi-function park at La Villette.

Les Trésors du Sultan Topkapi à Versailles - is a sample of Topkapi's collection, going back through centuries to the treasures of Suleiman, the First as well as the Magnificent. At the Château, continuing until Sunday, 15. August Info. Tel.: 01 30 84 74 00.

Long-Running Exhibitions, Shows and Events:

'L'Artiste Selon Balzac' - The 'Maison de Balzac' reopened with a new exhibitionposter: 'mais n'te promene donc pas toute nue' by feydeau, theatre lucernaire of artistic works. On exhibit will be Raphael, done by Ingres, La Fontaine, and Balzac by Picasso, plus science types such as Descartes and Newton; to illustrate Balazc's argument. Balzac's missing statue by Rodin at Vavin can be seen at the exhibition.

It is also the bi-centenary of Balzac's birth - which was on 20. May 1799 - so the Web has swung into gear. In addition to the Web site above you may want to take a look at this other one, to see complete texts and illustrations. These amounted to, at his death, 10,816 pages in 97 volumes.

The exhibition continues until 5. September. The museum's library is currently closed, but will reopen on 19. September. Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Info. Tel.: 01 42 24 56 38.

Jean Moulin, 1899-1943 - This is a special exhibition, on the occasion of the anniversary of Jean Moulin's birth. It is more biographical detailed than the permanent exhibit. At the Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris et Musée Jean Moulin, Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Until 2. January 2000, daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. Catalogue available, 80 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

Hommage à Jean Marais - is an exhibition about this famous French actor, which continues until 5. September. Musée de la Vie Romantique, 16. Rue Chaptel, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

The Musée de la Poupée - the Paris' doll museum has an exhibit of the 'Les Plus Belles' dolls, dating from 1899 to 1957. Many of these are from private collections. These are on show at the museum until 12. September.

Musée de la Poupée, Impasse Berthaud, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. Except Monday, open daily from 11:00 to 18:00. Boutique next door. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Homage à Jean Rigaud - presents 80 years worth of this marine painter's production in an exhibition lasting until 23. August. While you do a tour of this museum, there is also a show called L'Ile au Trésor for kids every Wednesday, starting at 14:45. By reservation only: for the 8-12s, 25 francs. Tel.: 01 53 65 69 53. For the museum, open daily except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 17:50. Musée de la Marine, Palais de Chaillot, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro.

'Le Vagabond du Surréalisme' - is Georges Malkine, considered to be one of the founders of surrealism. At the Pavillon des Arts, Les Halles, Porte Rambuteau, Terrace Lautréamont, Paris 1. Until 29. August. Open from 11:30 to 18:30, except on Mondays and holidays.

Jean Racine 1699-1999 - gets a remembrance in the Yvelines department this summer, with theatre, conferences, tours, anposter: aout au cine exhibition and concerts being staged. For details of the full program, try the Web site for the Ile-de-France. While at the site, check to see if the 'Historic Writer's Route' program is still operating.

'Painting After Abstraction, 1955 to 1975' is the current exhibition at the Musée d'Art Moderne. It features Martin Barré, Jean Defottex, Raymond Hains, Simon Hantaï and Jacques Villeglé. Until Sunday, 19. September.

Musée d'Art Moderne, 11; Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Place de l'Alma. Open Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 to 17:30 and on weekends from 10:00 to 18:45. Info. Tel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Some of the above items have been carried over for many issues of this magazine. If you require more information - such as addresses or phone numbers - check 'All Past Issues' either from here, or from the top or bottom of any page in the magazine.

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