August's End

photo: arc du triomphe du carrousel

The Arc du Triomphe du Carrousel is at the east end of the Tuileries, across from the Louvre.

The Beginning of Fall 1999

Paris:- Saturday, 28. August 1999:- This is the last issue of 'Scene' in this last August of the century. If you have been reading it all month, you will have realized that there's more going on in Paris than looking for open laundries.

Before I moved from the village into the city, most of the following items were abstract because there was no way I could get to see or participate in them. Now, if I'm stuck for a feature idea, all I have to do is read this column in addition to writing it. Who knows? Maybe next year I'll even be able to attend the:

Visa Pour l'Image - is not in Paris but in Perpignan. I was alerted to this annual photojournalism festival by one of Metropole's readers. Last year's edition brought together 3300 photographers and 175 agencies, from about 40 countries. Jean-Francois Leroy's wish is that the work of younger photojournalists will find itself in newspapers and magazines, in addition to being shown at this festival. On now, until Sunday, 12. September, in Perpignan.

Le Jardin Planétaire - will be a huge exhibition about plants and people, about earth, vegetation, animals and climate; about what we know and about what we should do to keep the world fit for habitation as we pass into the third millennium. This veggie workshopposter: le jardin planetaire, villette takes up 8500 square metres of the Grand Halle at La Villette, starting from Wednesday, 15. September and continuing until 23. January 2000. From 10:00 to 18:00 Tuesdays to Fridays; from 11:00 to 19:00 on weekends. Grand Halle, La Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurés, Paris 19. Advance reservation tickets available at fnac, Bon Marché and Carrefour. Métro: Porte de Pantin.

The Cinémathèque Française - is France's movie museum and it has a constant program of rare film projections. The museum operates in two locations: at the Palais de Chaillot, garden entry; and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Auto-Info Tel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

Festival Alternative Lyrique - is the first biannual rendez-vous of European Lyrical groups such as the Berliner Kammeroper, the Welsh Music Theatre and France's Opéra Eclate. The festival will take place from Friday, 10. September and continue until Saturday, 18. September. Mostly programmed for La Villette, but there will be other venues as well. Info. Tel.: 01 42 58 07 29.

Apple Expo '99 - this is a consumer show for the ten percent minority of computer users who have either been seduced by the Macintosh's ease of use or the iMac's new cherry colors. Once proclaimed a dead duck, Apple soldiers on with its Expo, which is for five days this year, from Wednesday, 15. September until Sunday, 19. September. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles; in the Hall 7.3. From 10:00 to 19:00 daily. Métro: Porte de Versailles.

Techno Parade - I was about to mix this up with the recent 'Love Parade' but of course this is different - this is Techno, and is the 2nd year for Paris. Last year's parade drew 200,000 - and this year's program calls for dozens of floats to fill up Paris, starting from the Place de la République at 14:00, passing by Bastille, and heading east to maybe arrive at the Pelouse de Reuilly about 18:00. Once out in the green of nature, there will be a 90,000 square metre 'dancefloor,' 300 DJs, 40 sound systems and four Techno music sub-divisions. This starts off the night before - Friday, 17. September with other Techno events - and the parade is on Saturday, 18. September, with 'afters' running into Sunday. If you can't help it, don't miss it.

Montfermeil Au Fil du Temps - is a historical show put on at night by 800 of the inhabitants of Montfermeil, which is just east of Montreuil. The residents put on their show in July, took off for August and are back again on Friday and Saturday, 17. and 18. September. Info. Tel.: 01 41 70 70 48.

Lyon - Mode City - You might think that taking a look at next year's beach fashions right now is a bit redundant, but since frilly underwear is thrown in, why not? The PR folks at Jockey in Germany sent me an invitation to this lingerie and swimwear expo. Minimal clothes show of fabrics,poster: festival alternative lyrique, villette lingerie and swimwear for 2000 in Lyon, at Eurexpo-Lyon, from Saturday, 4. September to Monday, 6. September. Daily from 9:00 to 19:00. Info. Tel.: 01 47 56 32 32.

Billie Holiday's Last Blues - is a show devoted to Billie Holiday, her work and her life. Written by Lanie Robertson and directed by Georges Werler. The show starts on Tuesday and runs until 15. October, from Tuesdays to Saturdays, at 20:30. At the Kiron Espace, 10. Rue La Vacquerie, Paris 11. Métro: Voltaire. Info. Tel.: 01 44 64 11 50.

1st Festival des Arènes de Montmartre - five theatre companies present five different productions in the second half of this outdoor festival at the Arènes de Montmartre, at the top of the Rue Chappe, near the Funiculaire. Métro: Abbesses. Phone for times and titles: 01 48 40 62 49.

2nd 'Soirs au Village' - is a variety festival, which started on Wednesday, 25. August and it is a bit out of town. In addition to music there will be cinema, dancing, craft workshops and a harvest fëte. Featured star is Manu Dibango with an evening called 'Salut Manu' on Saturday.

Some other events continue on Sunday, and patchwork lasts until Sunday, 5. September. the 'harvest' is on Sunday. The 'village' concerned is Saint-Calais, which has a postal code of 72120, located somewhere between the autoroute A11, Tours, Orléans, and Le Mans. Best to call the Info. Tel.: 02 43 35 10 97. The municipal campsite has special rates for this date.

Tours of the Jewish Marais - are organized by the Musée d'Art et d'Historie du Judaïsme. The visits include the Synagogue in the Rue des Tournelles, the Rue des Rosiers and the museum itself. The guided visits are free. The first, at 21 bis. Rue des Tournelles is from 10:00 to 12:00. For the Rue des Rosiers, tours are on the hour, from 10:00 to 17:00 and this is the same for the museum. Musée d'Art et d'Historie du Judaïsme, Hôtel de Saint-Aigan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 86 53, or write to info@mahj.org for full details.

The Fall Season and Paris 2000

Summer ends on Wednesday, 1. September and the fall season begins. Paris 2000 also begins. This is nothing more or less than Paris' 16 month 'Fête de Millennium,' slated to end on or about 1. January 2001. September's fall 'season only lasts one month. See the preliminary details for both below:

Paris In September - I have the impression that Paris' fall season used to get underway around the middle of the month - but now the beginning of September is full of events too.

'Les Fêtes de la Seine' - start on Thursday, 2. September and continue until Sunday. Last year I think this was only on one Sunday, but Paris is upgrading its river to be a water-sport-and-leisure attraction, so this year the festivities will last for four days - also a Paris 2000 event this year.

Les Marchés Flottants - 'of the South-West' completes the name for what appears to be a floating - in the Seine - market featuring traditional products of the departments of the Gers, Lotbrochure: montfermeil au fil des temps and Garonne and Tarn and Garonne. Same dates as the Fêtes de la Seine. Find this unusual market at the Quai Montebello, right across from Notre Dame. From 10:00 to 23:00.

Starting as a one-day event, a 'Fête des Jardins' is scheduled, I think for the first time, for Sunday, 12. September. Keep watching this space for details. There will be something happening at every park in every arrondissement.

Paris Sheep Day - Feel like you've been clipped? Then see how French sheep like it on Sunday, 5. September, at the Ferme de Paris. This is just to the west of the Vincennes racetrack, in the Bois de Vincennes, by the Route de Pesage. Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes or Charenton-Ecoles.

Une Capitale Poëtique, 1850 - 1914 - is mainly a photographic exhibition. The works of Charles Marville fill in the second half of the 19th century and Eugène Atget's works begin this century about to end.

The photos are organized thematically around the poets Nerval, Baudelaire, Rimbaud and Appollinaire. This starts at the Bibliothèque Historique de Paris on Friday, 10. September and runs to Thursday, 7. October. Then it runs at the Bibliothèque Buffon until 10. November. Bibliothèque Historique de Paris, 22. Rue Mahler, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 44 59 29 60.

Patchwork, Quilts and Textiles - 50 of the best contemporary French works have been chosen for this exhibition, which will later go on tour in Germany and the United States. See these modern needle-and-thread works, from Tuesday, 14. September until Saturday, 20. November. At the Bibliothèque Forney, 1. Rue de Figuier, Paris 4. Métro: Pont Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 42 78 14 60.

Messages from the Other-World - part of this show is from Lausanne's collection 'Art Brut;' some of the 30 artists represented are William Blake, Marguerite Burnat-Provins, Minnie Evans, Madge Gill, Heinrich Nüsslein, Laure Pigeon and Victorien Sardou. From Monday, 13. September to 27. February, 2000. At the Halle Saint-Pierre, 2. Rue Ronsard, Paris 18. Métro: Anvers. Info. Tel.: 01 42 58 72 89.

Latin American Artists - are a main feature of the FIAC show, with 30 Latin American galleries represented, from Mexico to Patagonia. In all 182 galleries will be presenting the latest from the art world. For the duration of the FIAC, its entry tickets will be also honored at Paris' Modern Art Museum. From Tuesday, 15. September until Monday, 20. September. FIAC, at Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles. Métro: Porte de Versailles. Info. Tel.: 01 41 90 47 80.

Festival Internationale de Danse - all I have are its dates; from Tuesday, 21. September until Saturday, 25. September. The location: Théâtre des Champs-Elysées.

Sand - Musset: 'Les Enfants du Siècle' - this exhibition displays all the background involved with the making of the film 'Les Enfants du Siècle' by Diane Kurys. The story is about the legendary passion between George Sand and the young Alfred de Mussat. On show are the storyboard by Maxime Rabière, costumes for the film by Christian Lacroix, decor by Philippe Turlure and photographs by Marion Stalens. From Tuesday, 21. September until 9. January, 2000. Musée de la Vie Romantique, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Blanche or Pigalle. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

2000 in Paris

Once every millennium about this time, people start making plans to visit Paris, to be here when the tired old '99 rolls over into the brandnew '00.

Many of the planned events are coupled to occasions that Paris has long celebrated, but many more are special events - which Paris is officially characterizing as the 'choix du cúur' and has named it 'Paris 2000.'

Paris is in France of course, so there is also a national program of events and celebrations - if this is the right word - too. If these events are in addition to what Paris has planned, they are added below.

The World Wheel - La Roue Monde - from the beginning of August you have been invited to send an email message to The World Wheel about your thoughts for the future. The artist, Jean-Luc Vilmouth, is collecting the messages and these will be placed on ferris wheels installed along the Champs-Elysées, along with 24 other works of art - for display on 31. December.

The Meridian Verte - imagined by the architect Paul Chemetov, the idea is for volunteers to plant trees along the old Paris 'Meridian,' from Dunkirk to Barcelona. Besides the trees, the best part of the idea is to have a picnic on the meridian on 14. July 2000.

The Balloon Goes Up - without even waiting for September, the tethered balloon at the Parc André Citroën took its first flight on Thursday, 1. July at 18:00, and now offers rides to the public when the winds permit. A brief overview:

September:
  • The giant sundial at the Place de la Concorde is in place, but it is so big that it can only be seen from the:
  • 'The Big Wheel' - 60 metres high - which is to be erected at the beginning of the month.
  • Les Fêtes de la Seine have been expanded from one day to three. From Thursday, 2. September until Sunday, 5. September. Water sports will be one of many features.
  • Les Champs de la Sculpture open-air exhibition is scheduled to begin on Wednesday, 15.September; to continue until 14. November.
  • Spaceship II Thousand - Le Vaisseau II Mille - is under construction by students from seven technological high schools in the Paris region. This nine-ton thingee will be complete at the year's end and be viewable at La Villette.
October:
  • Robert Hossein presents a huge spectacle entitled "The Man Who Said 'No'" - about Charles de Gaulle and his wartime followers. At the Palais des Congrès.
  • The first exhibition of 'Fauvism' in 30 years begins at mid-month at Paris' Musée d'Art Moderne. Over 200 works by Matisse, Derain, Marquet, Manguin, Puy, Camoin, Vlaminck, Van Dongen, Braque, Friesz and Dufy.
  • The theatre at Châtelet re-opens, with the opera 'Outis' created by Luciano Berio for La Scala, beginning in November. The 'Nutcracker Suite' - 'Caisse-Noisette' - follows in December.
  • Les Enfants du Monde
November:
  • The 20th Anniversary of the annual 'Mois de la Photo,' calls for a more ambitious program than usual - one that continues to the 'Month of the Photo' in November, 2000.
  • 4. November at Saint-Germain-des-Prés; the International World Tour of Sacred Songs, presents the first of eight concerts in historic Paris locations.
  • Paris, known as the 'City of Light' due it its early adoption of electric lighting, turns on many, many more lights, everywhere.
December:
  • From 20. December to 5. January 2000, Paris does its traditional Christmas season - see past Christmas issues of Metropole - with the addition of a new children's village at Trocadéro, to be packed with new snow daily.
  • 'Capitales' is a giant book 15 metres high, to be set up at Palais-Royal. On hand will be hundreds of authors and artists from all over the world. 31. December and 1. January.
  • 'Countdown 2000' calls for gathering mankind at the base of the Tour Eiffel to help the countdown time display reach zero. An extra 20,000 flash-lights have been added to the tower; set to blitz each hour until 1. January 2001.
  • 'Portes de l'An 2000' - 36,000 villages, towns and cities in France are set to have symbolic or real 'doors to the future,' around which the festivities of New Year's Eve are to be concentrated.
January 2000:
  • New Year's Day - Saturday, 1. January 2000:- 'The Great Parade of Paris.' Enjoyed by Montmartre for the past six years, this edition will parade through all Paris - with all of the world's marching bands invited.

These are only the barest details of some of the events of the 'Paris 2000' and the national 'Mission 2000' programs. Watch this space for additional information. Although seemingly modest, the 'Paris Lights Up' alone will be worth seeing.

The plans for Bastille Day 2000 call for the re-enactment of the history of France and Paris, to be produced by Robert Hossein - but without the entire original cast. Following the show, there will be three 'grand balls,' at Concorde, Invalides and the Champ-de-Mars.

Eclipsomania! Leftovers

''Ciel une Eclipse' - the Hôtel de Ville's reception area has been turned into an eclipse exhibit. The title of the exhibit either means an 'eclipse in the sky' or 'Heavens! An Eclipse.'

Salon d'Acceuil, Hôtel de Ville, 29. Rue de Rivoli,Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. Open daily except for Sundays and holidays, from 9:30 to 18:00. No entry charge for the eclipse exhibition, which continues until 25. September. A free brochure about the eclipse is available.

Solaire - is a current, and free, exhibition at the Observatoire de Paris. It is a great chance to see the inside of this building which is open only rarely. Did you know our planet is speeding along in 'our' galaxy at the rate of 250 kilometres per second? Find out more about 'our' sun and the planets at the Observatoire de Paris, 61. Avenue de l'Observatoire, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau or RER Port Royal. Robot Info. Tel.: 01 40 51 21 74.

Elton John's Shades - is a musical comedy about rock-n-roll dreams of love and football, by ordinary people like you and me; by Davis Farr; adapted by Attica Guedj and Stephan Meldegg. Starting Monday, 23. August, at the Théâtre Tristan Bernard, 64. Rue du Rocher, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers or Europe. Info. Tel.: 01 45 22 08 40.

Don't Walk Around Naked - by Feydeau, is called 'Mais n'te promène donc pas toute nue!' in French, and is called a 'Boulevard Comedy.' Never on Sundays, but otherwise at 20:00, at the Théâtre Lucernaire, 53. Rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs. Info. Tel.: 01 45 44 57 34.

Le Parc de la Villette - in Paris' northeast 19th arrondissement has a variety of summer-only attractions in addition to its year-round Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie, Grande Halle, Zenith concert hall, and the Cité de la Musique. It doesn't like itself to be referred to as an 'amusement park' but that is exactly what it is - even if it leans towards Science! Industry! Culture! Serious Music! in all has Rock and Circuses! Find details in issue 4.31's 'A Multi-Theme Park.'

Paris Quartier d'Eté - is all over town with at least a dozen live-performance events daily. Watch for signs of it wherever you are in the city. More than good enough to keep us away from cablo-TV re-runs and new TV game shows.

Du Rififi Chez les Hommes - is a 'B'-type crime movie made by Jules Dassin in 1954 which falls into the 'film noire' or 'polar' category. Re-mastered in black and white, for showing in Paris, starting Friday, 13. August. This is supposed to be a 'classic' film so don't miss it if you can help it.

Quelques Pas Dans les Etoiles - is an exhibition featuring legends and myths 'between the earth and the heavens,' from the planets and stars. From 10:00 to 13:00 and 15:00 to 18:00 daily except Sunday. At Hermès, 24. Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris 8. Métro: Concorde or Madeleine.

Bazart - is in a new space at Samaritaine's building two on the 5th floor, surrounded by its inner iron architecture. The 'Bazar' features 1600 original works by 32 artists, from about 400 to 1000 francs. Self-service, and a framing service is at the same location. From 9:30 to 19:00 Monday to Saturday; Thursday evenings until 22:00. Continues until Saturday, 4. September at Samaritaine: métro Louvre and Pont-Neuf.

'Palmiers' - Between Sun and Shade - is an wildly sublime palm tree exhibition I visited early in June and wrote about as 'The Year-Round Winter Garden.' This exhibition is continuing until Sunday, 10. October. At the Jardin des Serres d'Auteuil, 3. Avenueposter: techno parade de la Porte d'Auteuil, Paris 16. Open daily from 10:00 to 19:00. Métro: Porte d'Auteuil or Michel-Ange Molitor. Info. Tel.: 01 40 71 76 07.

Keith Haring - 'Made in France' - shows how far you can get with kid stuff if the experts call it art instead of doodles. It is funny enough, so I say it's art too. Haring worked a lot in Paris too. See the exhibition until Wednesday, 22. September at the Fondation Dina Vierny, Musée Maillol, at 59-61. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Rue du Bac. Info. Tel.: 01 42 22 59 58.

Métro Opened: - the elevated part of line 2 of the métro Porte Dauphine-Nation is now open again after renovations. No more free bus; no more traffic jams on account of the closed line.

Paris' Photo Summer:

Geo Is 20 - Europe's answer to the National Geographic magazine is not exactly its equivalent. For Geo's 20th, fnac Saint-Lazare presents a 'portrait' of Geo - until Saturday, 4. September. Except Sundays, daily from 10:00 to 19:30; Thursdays until 21:30. In the Passage du Harve, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Lazare.

Sam Levin - left behind 600,000 negatives when he died in 1992. This summer, 160 prints in black and white and in color feature many famous people as captured by Levin, including many French and foreign movie stars. The exhibition is on view at the Hôtel de Sully, 62. Rue Saint-Antoine, Paris 4. Métro: Bastille. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:30. Entry: 25 francs. Continues until Sunday, 19. September.

De Flêche en Cime, les Fréres Bisson - brothers who were contemporaries of Nadar, photographed Europe's big monuments, plus the snows of Mont Blanc. At the BN-Mitterrand, Quai François-Mauriac, Paris 13. Métro: Bibliothèque National de France. From 10:00 to 19:00.

Rembrandt - by Charles Matton - who is the director of the film about Rembrandt, which debuts on Wednesday, 8. September. Photographic results of eight months' film production shows the models, sets, decors, actors, with the film's background music. At the same location, portraits by Roberto Pellegrinuzzi shows faces in bone and flesh. Until Sunday, 26. September.

Portraits Croisés - Us and Them - is an exhibition by Helmut and Alice Springs, aka Mrs Newton. Faces of each other as well as the famous and notorious. Until Sunday, 12. September.

Topor Rit Encore - with ID photos this illustrator, screenwriter and author laughs again and we laugh with him. Until Sunday, 12. September.

'Rembrandt,' 'Portraits Croisés' and 'Topor Rit Encore' are all at the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Except Monday and Tuesday, daily from 11:00 to 20:00. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

1970-1990 - Twenty Years of Photos presented by Frankfurt's DG Bank include 3000 prints by 300 photographers, showing trends in recent photography. 'The Promise of Photography' is at the Centre Nationale de la Photographie, 11. Rue Berryer, Paris 8. Except Tuesday, from 12:00 to 19:00. Métro: George V or Ternes.

Renan by Nadar At Issy - there is an exhibition of about 30 photographic portraits by Nadar, of his contemporaries, at the Musée Français de la Carte à Jouer. Ernstposter: festival via pour l'image, perpignan Renan, who grew up in Issy, and was born three years after Gaspard Félix Tournachon, who was known as Nadar - an extraordinary character, who Renan thought, ended up as a 'refugee in the Botany Bay' of photography. Other faces on show are Dumas, Hugo, George Sand, Balzac and Thiers.

Musée Français de la Carte à Jouer, 16. Rue Auguste Gervais, Issy-les-Moulineaux. Métro: Mairie de Issy. Until 28. November; open on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays, from 10:00 to 19:00.

Catacombs Photo Show - some Parisians have their bones on permanent view in the Catacombs. These are adorned with pithy signs and some of these can be seen in this exhibition. The texts are not only in French, but in Latin, Greek, Italian and even Swedish - so take a translator. "Arrête! C'est ici l'Empire de la mort," is one example that has been photographed.

The Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. Open from Tuesday to Friday, from 14:00 to 18:00; and on weekends from 9:00 to 11:00 and from 14:00 to 16:00. On view until 14. February 2000, no less.

Paris Jazz Festival - at the Parc Floral de Paris. The dates are - 'every' Saturday at 16:30, until 25. September - and the concerts are free and no less good because of it. The 30th birthday of the Parc Floral also marks the 6th edition of its Festival 'Classique au Vert,' which features free concerts on Sundays at 16:30. 'Les Pestacles' are on every Wednesday at 14:30 for children from three to ten. Métro: Château de Vincennes. Info. Tel.: 01 43 43 92 95.

1 Monde Réel - the Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain was created in 1984 and since 1994 has been in its present location. The current exhibition asks itself the question about 'the dialectical relations and infinite riches between imaginary and act, known and unknown territories, present and dream, experience of the real and fiction.' In other words, this is a science fiction show because its objects were created by artists instead of engineers.

Until 14. November. Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain, 261. Boulevard Raspail, Paris 14. Métro: Raspail or Denfert-Rochereau. Except Mondays, open daily from 12:00 to 20:00. Info. Tel.: 01 42 18 56 51.

The Divan du Monde Does Morocco - in addition to 'Domingo de la Rumba,' above, the Divan du Monde also has 'Bab el Baraka,' which is Moroccan culture. Music and dance, but also displays of crafts and specialty foods. From Tuesday to Saturday, until 11. September; from 20:30 to 5 in the morning. At the Divan du Monde, 75. Rue des Martyrs, Paris 18. Métro: Abbesses, and walk down. Info. Tel.: 01 44 92 77 66.

Yves Mikaeloff Meets Kids - and likes telling them what his artistic installations are about, but talks about almost everything else too. Until Thursday, 30. September, at the Orangerie in the Parc de Bercy, 31. Rue Paul-Belmondo, Paris 12. Métro: Bercy. For times, call Info. Tel.: 01 53 46 19 04.

Raphaël & les Marsouins - is about Raphaël beating everybody else to Mars and the Martians he meets there. For kids, from three to nine years old. Tuesday to Friday, at 14:30; until Friday, 3. September. At the Petit Hébertot, 28 bis, Boulevard des Batignolles, Paris 17. Métro: Rome or Villiers. Info. Tel.: 01 44 70 06 69.

Beneath the Maps - maps can contain more information than may be apparent, and for this reason they were once jealously guarded by those in power. A history of maps, especially those of Paris, are featured in all their details in a current exhibition lasting until October at the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Pa ris 4. Métro: Sully Morland. Info. Tel.: 01 42 76 33 97.

Theatre In the Green - Four shows will be presented outside, weather permitting. See Shakespeare's 'Peines d'Amour Perdu,' from Saturday, 4. September to 4. October, on Saturdays and Sundays. All in the magical Shakespeare Garden, within the Jardin du Pré-Catelan, Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Info. Tel.: 01 40 19 95 33.

Hommage à Moustapha Dimé - the sculptor lived on the island of Gorée, out in the Atlantic off the coast of Dakar. Dimé, who died in 1998, was picking up prizes for his sculptures at Johannesburg and at the Biannual of Venice. Exhibition at the Hôtel de Ville's Salle Saint-Jean, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. The hours are from 11:00 to 19:00 daily except Mondays. Until 14. November.

Demures - is the name of the exhibition at the Musée Zadkine which continues until 17. October. Atposter: les fetes de nuit, versailles the Musée Zadkine, 100 bis, Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Open daily from 10:00 to 17:30, except Mondays.

Fêtes de Nuit - is the name of Versailles' super spectacular fireworks displays, traditionally put on every summer. Okay, there's dancing and music too, plus special effects and water stuff, all to make you think of the good old Louis' days when taxpayers stood in long lines to see the royal show. Coming dates are 28. August, 4. and 11. September at 21:30. Tickets are from 70 to 250 francs. Info. Tel.: 08 03 80 88 03. Check out Spectacles au Château for more details.

Seine Cruising; Bike Cruising

Batobus - the city's bus on the Seine is something to think about trying if your feet get tired from walking beside it. Downphoto: the new batobus on the water there is a different view too. All-day tickets are not overly expensive and allow getting on and off as often as you wish. From the Tour Eiffel to Saint-Michel there are about four landings and there are two on the right bank at the Hôtel de Ville and the Louvre.

A new-model Batobus, opposite Notro-Dame, leaving the Quai Montebello.

Rent-a-Bike - details about the RATP's 'Roue Libre' and other bike rental possibilities are included in a previous 'Scene' column.

Vélo Taxis - the Vélo Taxis are stationed in the Place de la Concorde by the Tuileries - and follow a fixed one-hour route in the bike lanes, around the centre of Paris, on both banks on the Seine. The fare is 170 francs for a one-hour tour for two, and 100 francs for a 30-minute one-way trip to the Tour Eiffel. This is a heck of a good deal if your feet are flat and tired. There are usually one or two stationed at Concorde, but there are many in reserve - for group excursions. Info. Tel.: 01 47 42 00 01.


Long-Running Exhibitions, Shows and Events:

'L'Artiste Selon Balzac' - The 'Maison de Balzac' reopened with a new exhibition of artistic works. On exhibit will be Raphael, done by Ingres, La Fontaine, and Balzac by Picasso, plus science types such as Descartes and Newton; to illustrate Balazc's argument. Balzac's missing statue by Rodin at Vavin can be seen at the exhibition.

It is also the bi-centenary of Balzac's birth - which was on 20. May 1799 - so the Web has swung into gear. In addition to the Web site above you may want to take a look at this other one, to see complete texts and illustrations. These amounted to, at his death, 10,816 pages in 97 volumes.

The exhibition continues until Sunday, 5. September. The museum's library is currently closed, but will reopen on Sunday, 19. September. Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Info. Tel.: 01 42 24 56 38.

Jean Moulin, 1899-1943 - This is a special exhibition, on the occasion of the anniversary of Jean Moulin's birth. At the Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris et Musée Jean Moulin, Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Until 2. January 2000, daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. Catalogue available, 80 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

Hommage à Jean Marais - is an exhibition about this famous French actor, which continues until Sunday, 5. September. Musée de la Vie Romantique, 16. Rue Chaptel, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

The Musée de la Poupée - the Paris' doll museum has an exhibit of the 'Les Plus Belles' dolls, dating from 1899 to 1957. Many of these are from private collections. These are on show at the museum until Sunday, 12. September.

Musée de la Poupée, Impasse Berthaud, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. Except Monday, open daily from 11:00 to 18:00. Boutique next door. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Jean Racine 1699-1999 - gets a remembrance in the Yvelines department this summer, with theatre, conferences, tours, an exhibition and concerts being staged. For details of the fullbrochure: cinematheque francais program, try the Web site for the Ile-de-France. While at the site, check to see if the 'Historic Writer's Route' program is still operating.

'Painting After Abstraction, 1955 to 1975' is the current exhibition at the Musée d'Art Moderne. It features Martin Barré, Jean Defottex, Raymond Hains, Simon Hantaï and Jacques Villeglé. Until Sunday, 19. September.

Musée d'Art Moderne, 11; Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Place de l'Alma. Open Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 to 17:30 and on weekends from 10:00 to 18:45. Info. Tel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Some of the above items have been carried over for many issues of this magazine. If you require more information - such as addresses or phone numbers - check 'All Past Issues' either from here, or from the top or bottom of any page in the magazine.

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