September Bonanza

photo: statue pont bir-hakeim

If this scene grabs your fancy, find it on the
Pont de Bir-Hakeim.

The Beginning of Fall 1999

Paris:- Saturday, 4. September 1999:- This page has been 'reorganized' - hah! what an inapt word - with an actual attempt to put the coming events in chronological order. Some of them are, but if they are 'repeaters' then they are proceeded by a hodge-podge of new items. But first of all, I want to get the millennium stuff out of the way:

The Fall Season and 'Paris 2000'

Holidays ended - on Wednesday, 1. September and the fall season begins. Paris 2000 also begins. This is nothing more or less than Paris' 16 month 'Fête de Millennium,' slated to end on or about 1. January 2001. The outline of the program for the millennium party can be found on the new '2000 in Paris' page. Not banished, just moved to its own home.

The beginning of the event season in early September used to be bare, but after last week's 'Les Fêtes de la Seine' and its associated activities - we now move on the more charged middle of the month:

poster: fete des jardinsStarting as a one-day event, a 'Fête des Jardins' is scheduled, I think for the first time, for Sunday, 12. September. Since there will be something happening at nearly every park in every arrondissement, details here will be redundant because there are too many parks to shake a stick at.

Animal - Antoine Bourdelle liked animals when he was a little kid, something he learned from his grandfather. Even then, he made little models of them. The grown-up Bourdelle did even more with animals and this is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at the Musée Bourdelle, 16. Rue Antoine Bourdelle, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. Dates are from Friday, 24. September until 16. January 2000. Info. Tel.: 01 49 54 73 73.

India Ink - is behind an exhibition titled 'Le Parfum de l'Encre, Peintures Chinoises de la Collection Roy et Marilyn Papp.' I liked india ink, but I think what this exhibition of 53 works will show is Chinese artists from the Ming Period -1349-1644 - and the Qing Period - 1644-1911 - were absolute masters of it. I'm putting Friday, 24. September in my date book and if I can't get there then, the exhibition continues until Thursday, 30. December. To be at the Musée Cernuschi, 7. Avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers or Monceau. Info. Tel.: 01 45 63 50 75.

Jean Béraud et le Paris de la Belle Epoque - While the impressionists were all the rage a century ago, Jean Béraud recorded in paint the streets and byways of the City of Light, capturing the charm and the spirit of it. With the publication of the first critical catalogue of Béraud's works by Patrick Offenstadt, this exhibition presents 60 representative works. From Wednesday, 29. September until 2. February 2000. To be at the Musée Carnavalet, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

Fragment d'Alex - is an extract from 'Ma Solange, Comment T'Ecrire Mon Déastre' by Noëlle Renaude - which may be a ballet but I don't think so. Put on by the Compagnie les Mots-Dits and directed by Philippe Calvano. At the Théâtre Leposter: fragment d'alex, theatre de ranlagh Ranlagh, 5. Rue des Vignes, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette. Until Sunday, 26. September; Tuesday to Saturday at 21:00 and at 17:00 on Sundays. Info. Tel.: 01 42 88 64 44.

Mon Père Avait Raison - is a comedy by Sacha Guitry, directed by Jean-Claude Brialy, with Virginie Pradal and Marcel Cuvelier. Frankly, I have no idea what the story is about, but the title is interesting and the names are well-known. From Tuesday to Friday at 20:30, on Saturdays at 21:00 and Sundays at 17:00. At the Bouffes Parisiens, 4. Rue Monsigny, Paris 2. Métro: 4. September. Info. Tel.: 01 42 96 92 42 - and tickets at the usual agencies.

Festival Alternative Lyrique - is the first biannual rendez-vous of European Lyrical groups such as the Berliner Kammeroper, the Welsh Music Theatre and France's Opéra Eclate. The festival will take place from Friday, 10. September and continue until Saturday, 18. September. Mostly programmed for La Villette, but there will be other venues as well. Info. Tel.: 01 42 58 07 29.

Une Capitale Poëtique, 1850 - 1914 - is mainly a photographic exhibition. The works of Charles Marville fill in the second half of the 19th century and Eugène Atget's works begin this century about to end.

The photos are organized thematically around the poets Nerval, Baudelaire, Rimbaud and Appollinaire. This startsposter: bouffes parisiens at the Bibliothèque Historique de Paris on Friday, 10. September and runs to Thursday, 7. October. Then it runs at the Bibliothèque Buffon until 10. November. Bibliothèque Historique de Paris, 22. Rue Mahler, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 44 59 29 60.

Visa Pour l'Image - is not in Paris but in Perpignan. This annual photojournalism festival was brought to my attention by one of Metropole's readers. Last year's edition brought together 3300 photographers and 175 agencies, from about 40 countries. Jean-Francois Leroy's wish is that the work of younger photojournalists will find itself in newspapers and magazines, in addition to be shown at this festival. On now, until Sunday, 12. September, in Perpignan.

Messages from the Other-World - part of this show is from Lausanne's collection 'Art Brut;' some of the 30 artists represented are William Blake, Marguerite Burnat-Provins, Minnie Evans, Madge Gill, Heinrich Nüsslein, Laure Pigeon and Victorien Sardou. From Monday, 13. September to 27. February, 2000. At the Halle Saint-Pierre, 2. Rue Ronsard, Paris 18. Métro: Anvers. Info. Tel.: 01 42 58 72 89.

Patchwork, Quilts and Textiles - 50 of the best contemporary French works have been chosen for this exhibition, which will later go on tour in Germany and the United States. See these modern needle-and-thread works, from Tuesday, 14. September until Saturday, 20. November. At the Bibliothèque Forney, 1. Rue de Figuier, Paris 4. Métro: Pont Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 42 78 14 60.

The 'Big' Wednesday, 15. September:

Les Champs de la Sculpture 2000 - this open-air sculpture show was mounted for the first time in 1996 and this year's new edition gets the '2000' label too. Of the 52 pieces to be on view, most have never been shown in France before. One reason for this is that about half of the works have been executed especially for this free exhibition.

Since you don't want a list of 50 names here, I will just say the artists represent five continents. In addition, only the works of living artists are on show -with works dating from 1960 to the '90's. On the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, from the Rond-Point to the Place de la Concorde, Paris 8. Métros: Franklin Roosevelt, Champs-Elysées Clemenceau and Concorde. Begins Wednesday, 15. September and continues until Sunday, 14. November.

Le Jardin Planétaire - will be a huge exhibition about plants and people, about earth, vegetation, animals and climate; about what we know and about what we should do to keep the world fit for habitation as we pass into the third millennium. This veggie workshop takes up 8500 square metres of the Grand Halle at La Villette, starting from Wednesday, 15. September and continuing until 23. January 2000. From 10:00 to 18:00 Tuesdays to Fridays; from 11:00 to 19:00 on weekends. Grand Halle, La Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurés, Paris 19. Advance reservation tickets available at fnac, Bon Marché and Carrefour. Métro: Porte de Pantin.

Latin American Artists - are a main feature of the FIAC show, with 30 Latin American galleries represented, from Mexico to Patagonia. In all 182 galleries will be presenting the latest from the art world. For the duration of the FIAC, its entry tickets will be also honored at Paris' Modern Art Museum. From Wednesday, 15. September until Monday, 20. September. FIAC, at Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles. Métro: Porte de Versailles. Info. Tel.: 01 41 90 47 80.

Apple Expo '99 - this is a consumer show for the ten percent minority of computer users who have either been seduced by the Macintosh's ease of use or the iMac's new cherry colors. Once proclaimed a dead duck, Apple soldiers on with its Expo, which is five days this year, from Wednesday, 15. September until Sunday, 19. September. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles; in the Hall 7.3. From 10:00 to 19:00 daily. Métro: Porte de Versailles.

The Rest of September:

Techno Parade - I was about to mix this up with the recent 'Love Parade' but of course this is different - this is Techno, and is the 2nd year for Paris. Last year's parade drew 200,000 - and this year's program calls for dozens of floats to fill up Paris, starting from the Place de la République at 14:00, passing by Bastille, and heading east to maybe arrive at the Pelouse de Reuilly about 18:00. Once out in the green of nature, there will be a 90,000 square metre 'dancefloor,' 300 Djs, 40 sound systems and four Techno music sub-divisions. This starts off the night before - Friday, 17. September with other Techno events - and the parade is on Saturday, 18. September, with 'afters' running into Sunday. If you can help it, don't miss it.

Montfermeil Au Fil du Temps - is a historical show put on at night by 800 of the inhabitants of Montfermeil, which is just east of Montreuil. The residents put on their show in July, took off for August and are back again on Friday and Saturday, 17. and 18. September. Info. Tel.: 01 41 70 70 48.

The Cinémathèque Française - is France's movie museum and it has a constant program of rare film projections. The museum operates in two locations: at the Palais de Chaillot, garden entry; and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Auto-Info Tel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

Billie Holiday's Last Blues - is a show devoted to Billie Holiday, her work and her life. Written by Lanie Robertson and directed by Georges Werler. The runs until Friday, 15. October, from Tuesdays to Saturdays, at 20:30. At the Kiron Espace, 10. Rue La Vacquerie, Paris 11. Métro: Voltaire. Info. Tel.: 01 44 64 11 50.

1st Festival des Arènes de Montmartre - five theatre companies present five different productions in the second half of this outdoor festival at the Arènes de Montmartre, at the top of the Rue Chappe, near the Funiculaire. Métro: Abbesses. Until Sunday, 19. September, but phone for times and titles: Info. Tel.: 01 48 40 62 49.

Tours of the Jewish Marais - are organized by the Musée d'Art et d'Historie du Judaïsme. The visits include the Synagogue in the Rue des Tournelles, the Rue des Rosiers and the museum itself. The guided visits are free. The first, at 21 bis. Rue des Tournelles is from 10:00 to 12:00. For the Rue des Rosiers, tours are on the hour, from 10:00 to 17:00 and this is the same for the museum. Musée d'Art et d'Historie du Judaïsme, Hôtel de Saint-Aigan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 86 53, or write to info@mahj.org for full details.

Festival Internationale de Danse - from Tuesday, 21. September to Sunday, 26. September: the American Ballet Theatre; from Tuesday, 28. Septemberinvitation: sand-musset to Sunday, 2. October: the Ballet de la Communidad de Madrid; and from Monday, 4. October to Friday, 8. October: the Ballet Nationale de Marseille. The location: Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, 15. Avenue Montaigne, Paris 8. Info. Tel.: 01 49 52 50 50

Sand - Musset: 'Les Enfants du Siècle' - this exhibition displays all the background involved with the making of the film 'Les Enfants du Siècle' by Diane Kurys.

Sand - Musset. Photo©Marion Stalens / H & K

The story is about the legendary passion between George Sand and the young Alfred de Mussat. On show are the storyboard by Maxime Rabière, costumes for the film by Christian Lacroix, decor by Philippe Turlure and photographs by Marion Stalens. From Tuesday, 21. September until 9. January, 2000. Musée de la Vie Romantique, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Blanche or Pigalle. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Eclipsomania! Leftovers

''Ciel une Eclipse' - the Hôtel de Ville's reception area has been turned into an eclipse exhibit. The title of the exhibit either means an 'eclipse in the sky' or 'Heavens! An Eclipse.'

Salon d'Acceuil, Hôtel de Ville, 29. Rue de Rivoli,Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. Open daily except for Sundays and holidays, from 9:30 to 18:00. No entry charge for the eclipse exhibition, which continues until 25. September. A free brochure about the eclipse is available.

Solaire - is a current, and free, exhibition at the Observatoire de Paris. It is a great chance to see the inside of this building which is open only rarely. Did you know our planet is speeding along in 'our' galaxy at the rate of 250 kilometres per second? Find out more about 'our' sun and the planets at the Observatoire de Paris, 61. Avenue de l'Observatoire, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau or RER Port Royal. Robot Info. Tel.: 01 40 51 21 74.

Elton John's Shades - is a musical comedy about rock-n-roll dreams of love and football, by ordinary people like you and me; by Davis Farr; adapted by Attica Guedj and Stephan Meldegg. This started on Monday, 23. August, at the Théâtre Tristan Bernard, 64. Rue du Rocher, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers or Europe. Info. Tel.: 01 45 22 08 40.

Don't Walk Around Naked - by Feydeau, is called 'Mais n'te promène donc pas toute nue!' in French, and is called a 'Boulevard Comedy.' Never on Sundays, but otherwise at 20:00, at the Théâtre Lucernaire, 53. Rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs. Info. Tel.: 01 45 44 57 34.

Le Parc de la Villette - in Paris' northeast 19th arrondissement has a variety year-round attractions at the Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie, Grande Halle, Zenith concert hall, and the Cité de la Musique. It doesn't like itself to be referred to as an 'amusement park' but that is exactly what it is - even if it leans towards Science! Industry! Culture! Serious Music! It also has Rock and Circuses! Find details in issue 4.31's 'A Multi-Theme Park.' While you do this, I'll look for their fall program.

Du Rififi Chez les Hommes - is a 'B'-type crime movie made by Jules Dassin in 1954 which falls into the 'film noire' or 'polar' category. Re-mastered in black and white, for showing in Paris. It started on Friday, 13. August and may still be on. This is supposed to be a 'classic' film so don't miss it if you can help it.

'Palmiers' - Between Sun and Shade - is an wildly sublime palm tree exhibition I visited early in June and wrote about as 'The Year-Round Winter Garden.' This exhibition is continuing until Sunday, 10. October. At the Jardin des Serres d'Auteuil, 3. Avenue de la Porte d'Auteuil, Paris 16. Open daily from 10:00 to 19:00. Métro: Porte d'Auteuil or Michel-Ange Molitor. Info. Tel.: 01 40 71 76 07.

Keith Haring - 'Made in France' - shows how far you can get with kid stuff if the experts call it art instead of doodles. It is funny enough, so I say it's art too. Haring worked a lot in Paris too. See the exhibition until Wednesday, 22. September at the Fondation Dina Vierny, Musée Maillol, at 59-61. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Rue du Bac. Info. Tel.: 01 42 22 59 58.

Métro Opened: - the elevated part of line 2 of the métro Porte Dauphine-Nation is now open again after renovations. No more free bus; no more traffic jams on account of the closed line.

Paris' Photo September:

Sam Levin - left behind 600,000 negatives when he died in 1992. Now showing are 160 prints in black and white and in color featuring many famous people as captured by Levin, includingphoto: cartoons pattou, pont bir-hakeim many French and foreign movie stars. The exhibition is on view at the Hôtel de Sully, 62. Rue Saint-Antoine, Paris 4. Métro: Bastille. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:30. Entry: 25 francs. Continues until Sunday, 19. September.

A Pattou cartoon on the Pont de Bir-Hakeim.

Rembrandt - by Charles Matton - who is the director of the film about Rembrandt, which debuts on Wednesday, 8. September. Photographic results of eight months' film production shows the models, sets, decors, actors, with the film's background music. At the same location, portraits by Roberto Pellegrinuzzi shows faces in bone and flesh. Until Sunday, 26. September.

Portraits Croisés - Us and Them - is an exhibition by Helmut and Alice Springs, aka Mrs Newton. Faces of each other as well as the famous and notorious. Until Sunday, 12. September.

Topor Rit Encore - with ID photos this illustrator, screenwriter and author laughs again and we laugh with him. Until Sunday, 12. September.

'Rembrandt,' 'Portraits Croisés' and 'Topor Rit Encore' are all at the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Except Monday and Tuesday, daily from 11:00 to 20:00. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

Renan by Nadar At Issy - there is an exhibition of about 30 photographic portraits by Nadar, of his contemporaries. Ernst Renan, who grew up in Issy, and was born three years after Gaspard Félix Tournachon, who was known as Nadar - an extraordinary character, who Renan thought, ended up as a 'refugee in the Botany Bay' of photography. Other faces on show are Dumas, Hugo, George Sand, Balzac and Thiers.

Musée Français de la Carte à Jouer, 16. Rue Auguste Gervais, Issy-les-Moulineaux. Métro: Mairie de Issy. Until Sunday, 28. November; open on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays, from 10:00 to 19:00.

Catacombs Photo Show - some Parisians have their bones on permanent view in the Catacombs, which are underneath where I live. These are adorned with pithy signs and some of these can be seen in this exhibition. The texts are not only in French, but in Latin, Greek, Italian and even Swedish - so take a translator. "Arrête! C'est ici l'Empire de la mort," is one example that has been photographed.

The Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. Open from Tuesday to Friday, from 14:00 to 18:00; and on weekends from 9:00 to 11:00 and from 14:00 to 16:00. On view until 14. February 2000, no less.

Paris Jazz Festival - at the Parc Floral de Paris. The dates are - 'every' Saturday at 16:30, until Saturday, 25. September - and the concerts are free and no less good because of it. Thephoto: batofar nighclub 30th birthday of the Parc Floral also marks the 6th edition of its Festival 'Classique au Vert,' which features free concerts on Sundays at 16:30. 'Les Pestacles' are on every Wednesday at 14:30 for children from three to ten. Métro: Château de Vincennes. Info. Tel.: 01 43 43 92 95.

The Batofar is a lighthouse for loud music.

1 Monde Réel - the Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain was created in 1984 and since 1994 has been in its present location. The current exhibition asks itself the question about 'the dialectical relations and infinite riches between imaginary and act, known and unknown territories, present and dream, experience of the real and fiction.' In other words, this is a science fiction show because its objects were created by artists instead of engineers.

Until Sunday, 14. November. Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain, 261. Boulevard Raspail, Paris 14. Métro: Raspail or Denfert-Rochereau. Except Mondays, open daily from 12:00 to 20:00. Info. Tel.: 01 42 18 56 51.

The Divan du Monde Does Morocco - presents 'Bab el Baraka,' which is Moroccan culture. Music and dance, but also displays of crafts and specialty foods. From Tuesday to Saturday, until Saturday, 11. September; from 20:30 to 5 in the morning. At the Divan du Monde, 75. Rue des Martyrs, Paris 18. Métro: Abbesses, and walk down. Info. Tel.: 01 44 92 77 66.

Yves Mikaeloff Meets Kids - and likes telling them what his artistic installations are about, but talks about almost everything else too. Until Thursday, 30. September, at the Orangerie in the Parc de Bercy, 31. Rue Paul-Belmondo, Paris 12. Métro: Bercy. For times, call Info. Tel.: 01 53 46 19 04.

Beneath the Maps - A history of maps, especially those of Paris, are featured in all their details in a current exhibition lasting until October at the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Pa ris 4. Métro: Sully Morland. Info. Tel.: 01 42 76 33 97.

Theatre In the Green - Four shows will be presented outside, weather permitting. See Shakespeare's 'Peines d'Amour Perdu,' untilposter: blues cafe event Monday, 4. October, on Saturdays and Sundays. All in the magical Shakespeare Garden, within the Jardin du Pré-Catelan, Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Info. Tel.: 01 40 19 95 33.

Hommage à Moustapha Dimé - the sculptor lived on the island of Gorée, out in the Atlantic off the coast of Dakar. Dimé, who died in 1998, was picking up prizes for his sculptures at Johannesburg and at the Biannual of Venice. Exhibition at the Hôtel de Ville's Salle Saint-Jean, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. The hours are from 11:00 to 19:00 daily except Mondays. Until Sunday, 14. November.

Demures - is the name of the exhibition at the Musée Zadkine which continues until Sunday, 17. October. At the Musée Zadkine, 100 bis, Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Open daily from 10:00 to 17:30, except Mondays.

Fêtes de Nuit - is the name of Versailles' super spectacular fireworks displays, traditionally put on every summer. Okay, there's dancing and music too, plus special effects and water stuff, all to make you think of the good old Louis' days when taxpayers stood in long lines to see the royal show. Last date is next Saturday, 11. September at 21:30. Tickets are from 70 to 250 francs. Info. Tel.: 08 03 80 88 03. Check out Spectacles au Château for more details.

Seine Cruising; Bike Cruising

Batobus - the city's bus on the Seine is something to think about if your feet get tired from walking beside it. Down on the water there is a different view too. All-day tickets are not overly expensive and allow getting on and off as often as you wish. From the Tour Eiffel to Saint-Michel there are about four landings and there are two on the right bank at the Hôtel de Ville and the Louvre.

Rent-a-Bike - details about the RATP's 'Roue Libre' and other bike rental possibilities are included in a previous 'Scene' column.


Long-Running Exhibitions, Shows and Events:

'L'Artiste Selon Balzac' - The 'Maison de Balzac' reopened with a new exhibition of artistic works. The exhibition is now over but the Web has swung into gear for the bi-centenary of Balzac's birth . In addition to the Web site above you may want to take a look at this other one, to see complete texts and illustrations. Theseposter: fete des jardins amounted to, at his death, 10,816 pages in 97 volumes. The coming exhibition, 'La Femme, Mode d'Emploi,' begins on Wednesday, 6. October. The museum's library reopens on Sunday, 19. September. Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Info. Tel.: 01 42 24 56 38.

Jean Moulin, 1899-1943 - This is a special exhibition, on the occasion of the anniversary of Jean Moulin's birth. At the Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris et Musée Jean Moulin, Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Until 2. January 2000, daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. Catalogue available, 80 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

The Musée de la Poupée - the Paris' doll museum has an exhibit of the 'Les Plus Belles' dolls, dating from 1899 to 1957. Many of these are from private collections. These are on show at the museum until Sunday, 12. September.

Musée de la Poupée, Impasse Berthaud, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. Except Monday, open daily from 11:00 to 18:00. Boutique next door. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

'Painting After Abstraction, 1955 to 1975' is the current exhibition at the Musée d'Art Moderne. It features Martin Barré, Jean Defottex, Raymond Hains, Simon Hantaï and Jacques Villeglé. Until Sunday, 19. September.

Musée d'Art Moderne, 11; Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Place de l'Alma. Open Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 to 17:30 and on weekends from 10:00 to 18:45. Info. Tel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Some of the above items have been carried over for many issues of this magazine. If you require more information - such as addresses or phone numbers - check 'All Past Issues' either from here, or from the top or bottom of any page in the magazine.

Send email concerning the
contents to: Ric Erickson, Editor.
Metropole Midi © 2014
– unless stated otherwise.
logo, metropole sml midi logo No matter how good it tastes,
there is no such thing
as a free lunch.
Waldo Bini