Paris Pumps Up the Volume

photo: shade in sunny tuileries

These people haven't read this column and they don't look as if they care. They had last week's weather though.

September's Event-Heavy 2nd Half

Paris:- Saturday, 11. September 1999:- Since last week Metropole has had two 'Scene' columns. This one continues to be for actual and coming events, and the '2000 In Paris' column features events - up to next summer - related to Paris' 'millennium party.'

Paris' Fall Season

I thought I had pretty much all of the major events already listed here, but Paris is always good for more. Before I get to the big one that almost escaped me, I want to draw your attention to Asnières' animal cemetery, which is celebrating - 'celebrating?' - its 100th anniversary this year.

More than 150,000 'loved ones' are residing in this eternal 'pension' - apparently including Rin Tin Tin and Sacha Guitry's cat, 'Désiré.' Except for Tuesdays, open daily from 10:00 to 17:00. The Paris suburb of Asnières is famous as the destination of misplaced phone calls, but I do not know where its animal cemetery is. Ask around for it.

Chardin's Still Lifes - are called 'Natures Mortes' in French, which sort of means 'dead nature' which is not what is meant at all. Jean Siméon Chardin didn't finish paintings until they were finished in his eyes - which he kept open for 80 years until his death in 1779.

In pre-photographic times, interior light was also inferior, so Chardin's production of 200 exquisitely detailed still lifes is something of a record. For this major exhibition, 95 of them are on display at the Grand Palais until Monday, 22. November. Except Tuesdays, daily from 10:00 to 20:00 and on Wednesdays until 22:00. Reservations are required for morning visits. At the Square Jean-Perrin, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 47.

Fête at La Villette's Basin - this open-air fête is an opportunity to see La Villette's outdoor water attractions, which are usually pretty boring without concerts, dancing, theatre music and sports events. The fête starts at 19:30 on Friday, 17. September and continues until Sunday. Saturday activities begin at 14:00 and continue until 23:00, and Sunday finishes off at 19:00. The Basin de la Villette starts at Place de Stalingrad and runs up to the Rue de Crimée, in Paris 19. Métro stops are: Jaurés, Stalingrad, Riquet and Laumiére. Info. Tel.: 01 45 23 21 64.

No Car Day - in case you skip this week's 'Au Bistro' column, Paris' no-car day is on Wednesday, 22. September this year; with an expanded no-car zone. Bring your rollers or rent a bike from the folks who run the métro and buses - the RATP.

France's Patrimony Days - are on Saturday, 18. September and Sunday, 19. September this year. This is the weekend when France's public and private treasures are opened for free entry for the public. Since some of these are private, this is the only time they are open.

L'Invitation à La Chine - on the occasion of Issy-les-Moulineaux' biannual, 35 young artists - of which nine are from Bejing - havebrochure: biannual issy, invitation a la chine been invited to expose their latest works. Some of the other artists have painted in China, while others have been influenced by that country's art. Photographs, sculpture, video and installations are also on show.

The Biennale d'Issy, at the Palais des Arts et des Congrès d'Issy-les-Moulineaux, 25. Avenue Victor Cresson. Métro: Issy. Open daily from 11:00 to 19:00, from Wednesday, 15. September until Monday, 27. September. Entry: free. Info. Tel.: 01 40 95 66 28. A special edition of the magazine Beaux-Arts has been published for the event

Les Trois Mousquetaires - based on the novel by Alexandre Dumas, comes riding into the Théâtre du Rond-Point with a big supporting cast on Tuesday, 3. October and will stay there until 31. December. At 2 bis, Avenue Franklin-Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: Franklin-Roosevelt. Info. Tel.: 01 44 95 98 10.

Festival d'Ile de France - takes place for the tenth time in the area surrounding Paris which is not quite as big as Texas, but is big enough to be a complicated transport affair. Some of its events take place within Paris - so the best thing to do if you want details of the events - mainly musical - is to consult the Web site of the Ile-de-France, or phone 01 44 94 28 50. This festival has already started and continues until Sunday, 17. October.

Messages from the Other-World - part of this show is from Lausanne's collection 'Art Brut;' some of the 30 artists represented are William Blake, Marguerite Burnat-Provins, Minnie Evans, Madge Gill, Heinrich Nüsslein, Laure Pigeon and Victorien Sardou. From today, 13. September to 27. February, 2000. At the Halle Saint-Pierre, 2. Rue Ronsard, Paris 18. Métro: Anvers. Info. Tel.: 01 42 58 72 89.

Patchwork, Quilts and Textiles - 50 of the best contemporary French works have been chosen for this exhibition, which will later go on tour in Germany and the United States. See these modern needle-and-thread works, from Tuesday, 14. September until Saturday, 20. November. At the Bibliothèque Forney, 1. Rue de Figuier, Paris 4. Métro: Pont Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 42 78 14 60.

Mon Père Avait Raison - is a comedy by Sacha Guitry, directed by Jean-Claude Brialy, who gave it a plug on TV last week. Frankly, I have still have no idea what the story is about, but the title is interesting and the names are well-known. From Tuesday to Friday at 20:30, on Saturdays at 21:00 and Sundays at 17:00. At the Bouffes Parisiens, 4. Rue Monsigny, Paris 2. Métro: 4. September. Info. Tel.: 01 42 96 92 42 - and tickets at the usual agencies.

Festival Alternative Lyrique - is the first biannual rendez-vous of European Lyrical groups such as the Berliner Kammeroper, the Welsh Music Theatre and France's Opéra Eclate. This festival continues until Saturday, 18. September. Mostly programmed for La Villette, but there will be other venues as well. Info. Tel.: 01 42 58 07 29.

1st Festival des Arènes de Montmartre - five theatre companies present five different productions in the second half of this outdoor festival at the Arènes de Montmartre, at the top of the Rue Chappe, near the Funiculaire. Métro: Abbesses. Until Sunday, 19. September, but phone for times and titles: Info. Tel.: 01 48 40 62 49.

The 'Big' Wednesday, 15. September:

Les Champs de la Sculpture 2000 - this open-air sculpture show was mounted for the first time in 1996 and this year's new edition gets the '2000' label too. Of the 52 piecesphoto: sculpture, champs elysees to be on view, most have never been shown in France before. One reason for this is that about half of the works have been executed especially for this free exhibition.

A preview piece of the coming outdoor exhibition.

Since you don't want a list of 50 names here, I will just say the artists represent five continents. In addition, only the works of living artists are on show -with works dating from 1960 to the '90's. On the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, from the Rond-Point to the Place de la Concorde, Paris 8. Métros: Franklin Roosevelt, Champs-Elysées Clemenceau and Concorde. Begins Wednesday, 15. September and continues until Sunday, 14. November.

Le Jardin Planétaire - will be a huge exhibition about plants and people, about earth, vegetation, animals and climate; about what we know and about what we should do to keep the world fit for habitation as we pass into the third millennium. This veggie workshop takes up 8500 square metres of the Grand Halle at La Villette, starting on Wednesday, 15. September and continuing until 23. January 2000. From 10:00 to 18:00 Tuesdays to Fridays; from 11:00 to 19:00 on weekends. Grand Halle, La Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurés, Paris 19. Advance reservation tickets available at fnac, Bon Marché and Carrefour. Métro: Porte de Pantin.

Latin American Artists - are a main feature of the FIAC show, with 30 Latin American galleries represented, from Mexico to Patagonia. In all 182 galleries will be presenting the latest from the art world. For the duration of the FIAC, its entry tickets will be also honored at Paris' Modern Art Museum. Starting Wednesday, 15. September, continuing until Monday, 20. September. FIAC, at Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles. Métro: Porte de Versailles. Info. Tel.: 01 41 90 47 80.

Apple Expo '99 - this is a consumer show for the ten percent minority of computer users who have either been seduced by the Macintosh's ease of use or the iMac's and new iBook's cherry colors. Once proclaimed a dead duck, Apple sails on with its Expo, which is five days long this year, from Wednesday, 15. September until Sunday, 19. September. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles; in the Hall 7.3. From 10:00 to 19:00 daily. Métro: Porte de Versailles.

Scène Est - is the new association name of the group of galleries in the rue Louise Weiss. Once again they together put on a joint exhibition of modern art works, starting on Wednesday, 15. September, whichposter: galleries louise weiss continues until Wednesday, 10. November. The area is close to the about-to-become 'East Paris' centre in the 13th arrondissement. Usual hours are from 11:00 to 19:00; except Mondays. Métro: Chevaleret. The illustration used here is by Rebecca Bournigault and the original is on view at the Galerie Almine Rech. Image: ©Rebecca Bournigault

The Rest of September:

Techno Parade - I was about to mix this up with the recent 'Love Parade' but of course this is different - this is Techno, and is the 2nd year for Paris. Last year's parade drew 200,000 - and this year's program calls for dozens of floats to fill up Paris, starting from the Place de la République at 14:00, passing by Bastille, and heading east to maybe arrive at the Pelouse de Reuilly about 18:00. Once out in the green of nature, there will be a 90,000 square metre 'dancefloor,' 300 Djs, 40 sound systems and four Technoposter: futuria 99 au zenith music sub-divisions. This starts off the night before - Friday, 17. September with other Techno events - and the parade is on Saturday, 18. September, with 'afters' running into Sunday. If you can help it, don't miss it.

One of theTechno Parade's 'afters.'

Fragment d'Alex - is an extract from 'Ma Solange, Comment T'Ecrire Mon Déastre' by Noëlle Renaude - which may be a ballet but I don't think so. Put on by the Compagnie les Mots-Dits and directed by Philippe Calvano. At the Théâtre Le Ranlagh, 5. Rue des Vignes, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette. Until Sunday, 26. September; Tuesday to Saturday at 21:00 and at 17:00 on Sundays. Info. Tel.: 01 42 88 64 44.

Montfermeil Au Fil du Temps - is a historical show put on at night by 800 of the inhabitants of Montfermeil, which is just east of Montreuil. The residents put on their show in July, took off for August and are back again on Friday and Saturday, 17. and 18. September. Info. Tel.: 01 41 70 70 48.

Une Capitale Poëtique, 1850 - 1914 - is mainly a photographic exhibition. The works of Charles Marville fill in the second half of the 19th century and Eugène Atget's works begin in our century, now about to end.

The photos are organized thematically around the poets Nerval, Baudelaire, Rimbaud and Appollinaire. At the Bibliothèque Historique de Paris until Thursday, 7. October. Then it runs at the Bibliothèque Buffon until 10. November. Bibliothèque Historique de Paris, 22. Rue Mahler, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 44 59 29 60.

Animal - Antoine Bourdelle liked animals when he was a little kid, something he learned from his grandfather. Even then, he madebrochure: festival ile de france little models of them. The grown-up Bourdelle did even more with animals and this is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at the Musée Bourdelle, 16. Rue Antoine Bourdelle, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. Dates are from Friday, 24. September until 16. January 2000. Info. Tel.: 01 49 54 73 73.

India Ink - is behind an exhibition titled 'Le Parfum de l'Encre, Peintures Chinoises de la Collection Roy et Marilyn Papp.' I liked india ink, but I think what this exhibition of 53 works will show is Chinese artists from the Ming Period -1349-1644 - and the Qing Period - 1644-1911 - were absolute masters of it. Starting Friday, 24. September, this exhibition continues until Thursday, 30. December. To be at the Musée Cernuschi, 7. Avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers or Monceau. Info. Tel.: 01 45 63 50 75.

Jean Béraud et le Paris de la Belle Epoque - While the impressionists were all the rage a century ago, Jean Béaud recorded in paint the streets and byways of the City of Light, capturing the charm and the spirit of it. With the publication of the first critical catalogue of Béaud's works by Patrick Offenstadt, this exhibition presents 60 representative works. From Wednesday, 29. September until 2. February 2000. To be at the Musée Carnavalet, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

The Cinémathèque Française - is France's movie museum and it has a constant program of rare film projections. The museum operates in two locations: at the Palais de Chaillot, garden entry; and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Auto-Info Tel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

Billie Holiday's Last Blues - is a show devoted to Billie Holiday, her work and her life. Written by Lanie Robertson and directed by Georges Werler. The runs until Friday, 15. October, from Tuesdays to Saturdays, at 20:30. At the Kiron Espace, 10. Rue La Vacquerie, Paris 11. Métro: Voltaire. Info. Tel.: 01 44 64 11 50.

Festival Internationale de Danse - from Tuesday, 21. September to Sunday, 26. September: the American Ballet Theatre; from Tuesday, 28. September to Sunday, 2. October: the Ballet de la Communidad de Madrid; and from Monday, 4. October to Friday, 8. October: the Ballet Nationale de Marseille. The location: Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, 15. Avenue Montaigne, Paris 8. Info. Tel.: 01 49 52 50 50

Sand - Musset: 'Les Enfants du Siècle' - this exhibition displays all the background involved with the making of the film 'Les Enfants du Siècle' by Diane Kurys.

The story is about the legendary passion between George Sand and the young Alfred de Mussat. On show are the film's storyboard by Maxime Rabière, costumes for the film by Christian Lacroix, decor by Philippe Turlure and photographs by Marion Stalens. From Tuesday, 21. September until 9. January, 2000. Musée de la Vie Romantique, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Blanche or Pigalle. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Eclipsomania! Leftovers Continue:

''Ciel une Eclipse' - the Hôtel de Ville's reception area has been turned into an eclipse exhibit. The title of the exhibit either means an 'eclipse in the sky' or 'Heavens! An Eclipse.'

Salon d'Acceuil, Hôtel de Ville, 29. Rue de Rivoli,Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. Open daily except for Sundays and holidays, from 9:30 to 18:00. No entry charge for the eclipse exhibition, which continues until 25. September. A free brochure about the eclipse is available.

Solaire - is a current, and free, exhibition at the Observatoire de Paris. It is a great chance to see the inside of this building which is open only rarely. Did you know our planet is speeding along in 'our' galaxy at the rate of 250 kilometres per second? Find out more about 'our' sun and the planets at the Observatoire de Paris, 61. Avenue de l'Observatoire, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau or RER Port Royal. Robot Info. Tel.: 01 40 51 21 74.

Elton John's Shades - is a musical comedy about rock-n-roll dreams of love and football, by ordinary people like you and me; by Davis Farr; adapted by Attica Guedj and Stephan Meldegg. Two ticketsposter: les lunettes d'elton john for the price of one, until Saturday, 2. October. At the Théâtre Tristan Bernard, 64. Rue du Rocher, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers or Europe. Info. Tel.: 01 45 22 08 40.

Don't Walk Around Naked - by Feydeau, is called 'Mais n'te promène donc pas toute nue!' in French, and is called a 'Boulevard Comedy.' Never on Sundays, but otherwise at 20:00, at the Théâtre Lucernaire, 53. Rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs. Info. Tel.: 01 45 44 57 34.

Du Rififi Chez les Hommes - is a 'B'-type crime movie made by Jules Dassin in 1954 which falls into the 'film noire' or 'polar' category. Re-mastered in black and white, for showing in Paris. It started on Friday, 13. August and may still be on. This is supposed to be a 'classic' film so don't miss it if you can help it.

'Palmiers' - Between Sun and Shade - is an wildly sublime palm tree exhibition I visited early in June and wrote about as 'The Year-Round Winter Garden.' This exhibition is continuing until Sunday, 10. October. At the Jardin des Serres d'Auteuil, 3. Avenue de la Porte d'Auteuil, Paris 16. Open daily from 10:00 to 19:00. Métro: Porte d'Auteuil or Michel-Ange Molitor. Info. Tel.: 01 40 71 76 07.

Keith Haring - 'Made in France' - shows how far you can get with kid stuff if the experts call it art instead of doodles. It is funny enough, so I say it's art too. Haring worked a lot in Paris too. See the exhibition until Wednesday, 22. September at the Fondation Dina Vierny, Musée Maillol, at 59-61. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Rue du Bac. Info. Tel.: 01 42 22 59 58.

Paris' Photo September:

Sam Levin - left behind 600,000 negatives when he died in 1992. Now showingposter: trois mousquetaires are 160 prints in black and white and in color featuring many famous people as captured by Levin, including many French and foreign movie stars. The exhibition is on view at the Hôtel de Sully, 62. Rue Saint-Antoine, Paris 4. Métro: Bastille. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:30. Entry: 25 francs. Continues until Sunday, 19. September.

Rembrandt - by Charles Matton - who is the director of the film about Rembrandt, which began in Paris on 8. September. Photographic results of eight months' film production shows the models, sets, decors, actors, with the film's background music. At the same location, portraits by Roberto Pellegrinuzzi shows faces in bone and flesh. Until Sunday, 26. September.

Renan by Nadar At Issy - there is an exhibition of about 30 photographic portraits by Nadar, of his contemporaries. Ernst Renan, who grew up in Issy, and was born three years after Gaspard Félix Tournachon, who was known as Nadar - an extraordinary character, who Renan thought, ended up as a 'refugee in the Botany Bay' of photography. Other faces on show are Dumas, Hugo, George Sand, Balzac and Thiers.

Musée Français de la Carte à Jouer, 16. Rue Auguste Gervais, Issy-les-Moulineaux. Métro: Mairie de Issy. Until Sunday, 28. November; open on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays, from 10:00 to 19:00.

Catacombs Photo Show - some Parisians have their bones on permanent view in the Catacombs, which are underneath where I live. These are adorned with pithy signs and some of these can be seen in this exhibition. The texts are not only in French, but in Latin, Greek, Italian and even Swedish - so take a translator. "Arrête! C'est ici l'Empire de la mort," is one example that has been photographed.

The Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. Open from Tuesday to Friday, from 14:00 to 18:00; and on weekends from 9:00 to 11:00 and from 14:00 to 16:00. On view until 14. February 2000, no less. I see the lineups for this every day except Mondays.

Paris Jazz Festival - at the Parc Floral de Paris. The dates are - 'every' Saturday at 16:30, until Saturday, 25. September - and the concerts are free and no less good because of it. The 30th birthday of the Parc Floral also marks the 6th edition of its Festival 'Classique au Vert,' which features free concerts on Sundays at 16:30. 'Les Pestacles' are on every Wednesday at 14:30 for children from three to ten. Métro: Château de Vincennes. Info. Tel.: 01 43 43 92 95.

1 Monde Réel - the Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain was created in 1984 and since 1994 has been in its present location. The current exhibition asks itself the question about 'the dialectical relations and infinite riches between imaginary and act, known and unknown territories, present and dream, experience of the real and fiction.' In other words, this is a science fiction show because its objects were created by artists instead of engineers.

Until Sunday, 14. November. Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain, 261. Boulevard Raspail, Paris 14. Métro: Raspail or Denfert-Rochereau. Except Mondays, open daily from 12:00 to 20:00. Info. Tel.: 01 42 18 56 51.

Yves Mikaeloff Meets Kids - and likes telling them what his artistic installations are about, but talks about almost everything else too. Until Thursday, 30. September, at the Orangerie in the Parc de Bercy, 31. Rue Paul-Belmondo, Paris 12. Métro: Bercy. For times, call Info. Tel.: 01 53 46 19 04.

Beneath the Maps - A history of maps, especially those of Paris, are featured in all their details in a current exhibitionphoto: arsenal expo, paris maps lasting until Sunday, 3. October at the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Pa ris 4. Métro: Sully Morland. Info. Tel.: 01 42 76 33 97. See this issue's feature about the Hôpital Saint-Louis, which this exhibition suggested to me.

Theatre In the Green - Four shows will be presented outside, weather permitting. See Shakespeare's 'Peines d'Amour Perdu,' until Monday, 4. October, on Saturdays and Sundays. All in the magical Shakespeare Garden, within the Jardin du Pré-Catelan, Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Info. Tel.: 01 40 19 95 33.

Hommage à Moustapha Dimé - the sculptor lived on the island of Gorée, out in the Atlantic off the coast of Dakar. Dimé, who died in 1998, was picking up prizes for his sculptures at Johannesburg and at the Biannual of Venice. Exhibition at the Hôtel de Ville's Salle Saint-Jean, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. The hours are from 11:00 to 19:00 daily except Mondays. Until Sunday, 14. November.

Demures - is the name of the exhibition at the Musée Zadkine which continues until Sunday, 17. October. At the Musée Zadkine, 100 bis, Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Open daily from 10:00 to 17:30, except Mondays.

Seine Cruising; Bike Cruising

Batobus - the city's bus on the Seine is something to think about if your feet get tired from walking beside it. Down on the water there is a different view too. All-day tickets are not overly expensive and allow getting on and off as often as you wish. From the Tour Eiffel to Saint-Michel there are about four landings and there are two on the right bank at the Hôtel de Ville and the Louvre.

Rent-a-Bike - details about the RATP's 'Roue Libre' and other bike rental possibilities are included in a previous 'Scene' column.


Long-Running Exhibitions, Shows and Events:

'Balzac - Superstar' - is a phrase I heard on the radio recently. The 'Maison de Balzac' reopened with a new exhibition of artistic works. The exhibition is now over - but the Web has swung into gear for the bi-centenary of Balzac's birth . In addition to the Web site above you may want to take a look at this other one, to see complete texts and illustrations. These amounted to, at his death, 10,816 pages in 97 volumes. The coming exhibition, 'La Femme, Modephoto: apple ad, denon wing, louvre d'Emploi,' begins on Wednesday, 6. October. The museum's library reopens on Sunday, 19. September. Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Info. Tel.: 01 42 24 56 38.

The theme for this year's Apple Expo is 'Think Big.' Only the Louvre will do.

Jean Moulin, 1899-1943 - This is a special exhibition, on the occasion of the anniversary of Jean Moulin's birth. At the Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris et Musée Jean Moulin, Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Until 2. January 2000, daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. Catalogue available, 80 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

'Painting After Abstraction, 1955 to 1975' is the current exhibition at the Musée d'Art Moderne. It features Martin Barré, Jean Defottex, Raymond Hains, Simon Hantaï and Jacques Villeglé. Until Sunday, 19. September.

Musée d'Art Moderne, 11; Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Place de l'Alma. Open Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 to 17:30 and on weekends from 10:00 to 18:45. Info. Tel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Some of the above items have been carried over for many issues of this magazine. If you require more information - such as addresses or phone numbers - check 'All Past Issues' either from here, or from the top or bottom of any page in the magazine.

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