Les Champs de la Sculpture 2000

photo: rond-point, champs elysees

Blast of sun illuminates a fountain at the Champs-
Elysées' Rond-Point.

September's Event-Heavy 2nd Half

Paris:- Saturday, 19. September 1999:- I skipped last Wednesday's inauguration of the Champs de la Sculpture because it was raining and took a stroll along it on Thursday when the sun was shining and drying out the puddles.

I am all for free exhibitions especially if there is no gate to enter, no opening and closing times, and there are handy snack bars available. Rain can be a nuisance, but this is nothing when faced with a freebie.

The 52 pieces on display on the Champs-Elysées betweenphoto: sculpture champs by b nahon the Rond-Point and the Place de la Concorde are all by living artists and represent the last 30 years of sculpture. Twenty-five of the pieces I saw Thursday were dated 1999.

Glass-ball sculpture by Brigitte Nahon: 'The Passage.'

My visit was around noon on a bright day. Some of the pieces have their own illumination and may best be seen at night - which means you should plan at least two visits for it. The exhibition continues until Sunday, 14. November. Métros: Franklin Roosevelt, Champs-Elysées Clemenceau and Concorde.

Cyberposte - La Poste promised and La Poste delivers - 1000 post offices in France have been outfitted with Apple's iMacs and it is connected to the Internet, possibly making La Poste the world biggest cybercafé without café.

My closest post office has one in operation; but its info stand was vacant. What you do is buy abrochure: cyberposte rechargeable Cyberposte card for 50 francs, which is good for one hour of network time. A recharge of the card only costs 30 francs and it can be recharged as often as you want. You can also get a personal email account.

La Route du Poisson - at one time, fish caught on the coast and landed at Le Touquet, Montreuil-sur-Mer and Boulogne-sur-Mer were raced to Paris every morning by teams of Ardennaise draught-horses. For the weekend of the 'Route du Poisson,' from Friday, 24. September to Sunday, 26. September - there will be a show of the horses and their equipment in Paris at the Hippodrome de Vincennes, on Sunday, 26. September, from 10:00 to 19:00.

Ulysses's Europe - was also known as the Bronze Age, which lasted from 2000 to 750 BC. Archaeologists have found that people travelled from Scandinavia to the Aegean and the near-east. This coming exhibition presents 200 pieces from the time. This exhibition begins on Thursday, 30 September and continues until 10. January 2000. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 47 47.

photo: barbu nitescu, depot matignonLe Dépôt Matignon - is having a series of exhibitions and the current one features Catherine Bell's 'Rencontre' until Saturday, 25. September. The following exhibition, featuring Lisa Zirner's paintings will begin on Sunday, 26. September. At 8. Rue Jean Mermoz, Paris 8. Métro: Franklin Roosevelt. Info. Tel.: 01 45 63 33 00.

Illustration from Barbu Nitescu's exhibition at the Dépôt Matignon. Barbu Nitescu©1999

No Car Day - Paris' no-car day is next Wednesday, 22. September this year; with an expanded no-car zone. Bring your rollers or rent a bike from the folks who run the métro and buses - the RATP.

2000 In Paris - Metropole has had two 'Scene' columns. This one continues to be for actual and coming events, and last week's '2000 In Paris' column features events - up to next summer - related to Paris' 'millennium party.'

Paris' Fall Season

Chardin's Still Lifes - are called 'Natures Mortes' in French, which sort of means 'dead nature' whichbrochure: chardin, la fillette au volant is not what is meant at all. Jean Siméon Chardin didn't finish paintings until they were finished in his eyes - which he kept open for 80 years until his death in 1779.

In pre-photographic times, interior light was also inferior, so Chardin's production of 200 exquisitely detailed still lifes is something of a record. For this major exhibition, 95 of them are on display at the Grand Palais until Monday, 22. November. Except Tuesdays, daily from 10:00 to 20:00 and on Wednesdays until 22:00. Reservations are required for morning visits. At the Square Jean-Perrin, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 47.

India Ink - is behind an exhibition titled 'Le Parfum de l'Encre, Peintures Chinoises de la Collection Roy et Marilyn Papp.' I liked india ink, but I think what this exhibition of 53 works will show is Chinese artists from the Ming Period -1349-1644 - and the Qing Period - 1644-1911 - were absolute masters of it. Starting Friday, 24. September, this exhibition continues until Thursday, 30. December. To be at the Musée Cernuschi, 7. Avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers or Monceau. Info. Tel.: 01 45 63 50 75.

Jean Béraud et le Paris de la Belle Epoque - While the impressionists were all the rage a century ago, Jean Béaud recorded in paint the streets and byways of the City of Light, capturing the charm and the spirit of it. With the publication of the first critical catalogue of Béaud's works by Patrick Offenstadt, this exhibition presents 60 representative works. From Wednesday, 29. September until 2. February 2000. To be at the Musée Carnavalet, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

Sand - Musset: 'Les Enfants du Siècle' - this exhibition displays all the background involved with the making of the film 'Les Enfants du Siècle' by Diane Kurys - see the film's poster on this week's poster pages.

The story is about the legendary passion between George Sand and the young Alfred de Mussat. On show are the film's storyboard by Maxime Rabière, costumes for the film by Christian Lacroix, decor by Philippe Turlure and photographs by Marion Stalens. From Tuesday, 21. September until 9. January, 2000. Musée de la Vie Romantique, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Blanche or Pigalle. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Festival Internationale de Danse - from Tuesday, 21. September to Sunday, 26. September: the American Ballet Theatre; from Tuesday, 28. September to Sunday, 2. October: the Ballet de la Communidad de Madrid; and from Monday, 4. October to Friday, 8. October: the Ballet Nationale de Marseille. The location: Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, 15. Avenue Montaigne, Paris 8. Info. Tel.: 01 49 52 50 50

L'Invitation à La Chine - on the occasion of Issy-les-Moulineaux' biannual, 35 young artists - of which nine are from Bejing - have been invited to expose their latest works. Some of the other artists have painted in China, while others have been influenced by that country's art. Photographs, sculpture, video and installations are also on show.

The Biennale d'Issy, at the Palais des Arts et des Congrès d'Issy-les-Moulineaux, 25. Avenue Victor Cresson. Métro: Issy. Open daily from 11:00 to 19:00, until Monday, 27. September. Entry: free. Info. Tel.: 01 40 95 66 28. A special edition of the magazine Beaux-Arts has been published for the event

Les Trois Mousquetaires - based on the novel by Alexandre Dumas, comes riding into the Théâtre du Rond-Point with a big supporting cast on Tuesday, 3. October and will stay there until 31. December. At 2 bis, Avenue Franklin-Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: Franklin-Roosevelt. Info. Tel.: 01 44 95 98 10.

La Valse du Hasard - is a teeth-gritting comedy, located between paradise and hell. Directed by Jacques Auxenel, it features Annie Chaplin and Thierry Debuyser. At 20:30 from Tuesday to Saturday; at 16:30 on Sundays. At the Théâtre du Renard, 12. Rue du Renard, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. Info. Tel.: 01 42 71 46 50.

Les Yeux Dans la Bière - has been loosely inspired by songs by Jacques Brel, and this piece has been put together by the Bla-Bla Theatre Company, featuring Raba. The show is in Fridays and Saturdays at 19:00. Théâtre des Déchargeurs, 3. Rue des Déchargeurs, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet. Info. Tel.: 01 42 36 00 02.

Festival d'Ile de France - takes place for the tenth time in the area surrounding Paris which is not quite as big as Texas, but is big enough to be a complicated transport affair. Some of its events take place within Paris - so the best thing to do if you want details of the events - mainly musical - is to consult the Web site of the Ile-de-France, or phone 01 44 94 28 50. This festival has already started and continues until Sunday, 17. October.

Messages from the Other-World - part of this show is from Lausanne's collection 'Art Brut;' some of the 30 artists represented are William Blake, Marguerite Burnat-Provins, Minnie Evans, Madge Gill, Heinrich Nüsslein, Laure Pigeon and Victorien Sardou. Until 27. February, 2000. At the Halle Saint-Pierre, 2. Rue Ronsard, Paris 18. Métro: Anvers. Info. Tel.: 01 42 58 72 89.

Patchwork, Quilts and Textiles - 50 of the best contemporary French works have been chosen for this exhibition, which will later go on tour in Germany and the United States. See these modern needle-and-thread works, until Saturday, 20. November. At the Bibliothèque Forney, 1. Rue de Figuier, Paris 4. Métro: Pont Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 42 78 14 60.

Mon Père Avait Raison - is a comedy by Sacha Guitry, directed by Jean-Claude Brialy. Frankly, I have no idea what the story is about, but the title is interesting and the names are well-known. From Tuesday to Friday at 20:30, on Saturdays at 21:00 and Sundays at 17:00. At the Bouffes Parisiens, 4. Rue Monsigny, Paris 2. Métro: 4. September. Info. Tel.: 01 42 96 92 42 - and tickets at the usual agencies.

Les Champs de la Sculpture 2000 - this open-air sculpture show was mounted for the first time in 1996 and this year's new edition gets the '2000' label too. Of the 52 pieces to be on view, most have never been shown in France before. One reason for this is that about half of the works have been executed especially for this free exhibition.

Since you don't want a list of 50 names here, I will just say the artists represent five continents. In addition, only the works of living artists are on show -with works dating from 1960 to the '90's. On the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, from the Rond-Point to the Place de la Concorde, Paris 8. Métros: Franklin Roosevelt, Champs-Elysées Clemenceau and Concorde. Continues until Sunday, 14. November.

Le Jardin Planétaire - is a huge exhibition about plants and people, about earth, vegetation, animals and climate; about what we know and about what we should do to keep the world fit for habitation as we pass into the third millennium. This veggie workshop takes up 8500 square metres of the Grand Halle at La Villette. It continues until 23. January 2000. From 10:00 to 18:00 Tuesdays to Fridays; from 11:00 to 19:00 on weekends. Grand Halle, La Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurés, Paris 19. Advance reservation tickets available at fnac, Bon Marché and Carrefour. Métro: Porte de Pantin.

Scène Est - is the new association name of the group of galleries in the rue Louise Weiss. Once againbrochure: paris, art contemporaine they together put on a joint exhibition of modern art works, starting on Wednesday, 15. September, which continues until Wednesday, 10. November. The area is close to the about-to-become 'East Paris' centre in the 13th arrondissement. Usual hours are from 11:00 to 19:00; except Mondays. Métro: Chevaleret.

Fragment d'Alex - is an extract from 'Ma Solange, Comment T'Ecrire Mon Déastre' by Noëlle Renaude - which may be a ballet but I don't think so. Put on by the Compagnie les Mots-Dits and directed by Philippe Calvano. At the Théâtre Le Ranlagh, 5. Rue des Vignes, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette. Until Sunday, 26. September; Tuesday to Saturday at 21:00 and at 17:00 on Sundays. Info. Tel.: 01 42 88 64 44.

Une Capitale Poëtique, 1850 - 1914 - is mainly a photographic exhibition. The works of Charles Marville fill in the second half of the 19th century and Eugène Atget's works begin in our century, now about to end.

The photos are organized thematically around the poets Nerval, Baudelaire, Rimbaud and Appollinaire. At the Bibliothèque Historique de Paris until Thursday, 7. October. Then it runs at the Bibliothèque Buffon until Wednesday, 10. November. Bibliothèque Historique de Paris, 22. Rue Mahler, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 44 59 29 60.

Animal - Antoine Bourdelle liked animals when he was a little kid, something he learned from his grandfather. Even then, he made little models of them. The grown-up Bourdelle did even more with animals and this is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at the Musée Bourdelle, 16. Rue Antoine Bourdelle, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. Dates are from Friday, 24. September until 16. January 2000. Info. Tel.: 01 49 54 73 73.

The Cinémathèque Française - is France's movie museum and it has a constant program of rare film projections. The museum operates in two locations: at the Palais de Chaillot, garden entry; and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Auto-Info Tel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

Billie Holiday's Last Blues - is a show devoted to Billie Holiday, her work and her life. Written by Lanie Robertson and directed by Georges Werler. The runs until Friday, 15. October, from Tuesdays to Saturdays, at 20:30. At the Kiron Espace, 10. Rue La Vacquerie, Paris 11. Métro: Voltaire. Info. Tel.: 01 44 64 11 50.

The Musée de la Poupée - for the centenary of the Société Française de Fabrication de Bébés et Jouets, Paris' doll museum will have an exhibit of the 'Les Plus Belles,' dating from 1899 to 1957. Many of these are from private collections and some will be up for auction on Sunday, 26. September.

Starting on Tuesday, 5. October, this museum will be showing Bécassine, Bluette and the dolls that were featured in the 'Semaine de Suzette,' a weekly magazine for girls that was published from 1905 to 1960. These will be shown along with dolls made under the 'Corolle' name. Musée de la Poupée, Impasse Berthaud, Paris 3. Opposite the métro exit at Rambuteau. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Elton John's Shades - is a musical comedy about rock-n-roll dreams of love and football, by ordinary people like you and me; by Davis Farr; adapted by Attica Guedj and Stephan Meldegg. Twoposter: theatre les yeux dans la biere tickets for the price of one, until Saturday, 2. October. At the Théâtre Tristan Bernard, 64. Rue du Rocher, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers or Europe. Info. Tel.: 01 45 22 08 40.

Don't Walk Around Naked - by Feydeau, is called 'Mais n'te promène donc pas toute nue!' in French, and is called a 'Boulevard Comedy.' Never on Sundays, but otherwise at 20:00, at the Théâtre Lucernaire, 53. Rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs. Info. Tel.: 01 45 44 57 34.

Du Rififi Chez les Hommes - is a 'B'-type crime movie made by Jules Dassin in 1954 which falls into the 'film noire' or 'polar' category. Re-mastered in black and white, for showing in Paris. It started on Friday, 13. August and may still be on. This is supposed to be a 'classic' film so don't miss it if you can help it.

'Palmiers' - Between Sun and Shade - is an wildly sublime palm tree exhibition I visited early in June and wrote about as 'The Year-Round Winter Garden.' This exhibition is continuing until Sunday, 10. October. At the Jardin des Serres d'Auteuil, 3. Avenue de la Porte d'Auteuil, Paris 16. Open daily from 10:00 to 19:00. Métro: Porte d'Auteuil or Michel-Ange Molitor. Info. Tel.: 01 40 71 76 07.

Keith Haring - 'Made in France' - shows how far you can get with kid stuff if the experts call it art instead of doodles. It is funny enough, so I say it's art too. Haring worked a lot in Paris too. See the exhibition until Wednesday, 22. September at the Fondation Dina Vierny, Musée Maillol, at 59-61. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Rue du Bac. Info. Tel.: 01 42 22 59 58.

Paris' Photo September:

Rembrandt - by Charles Matton - who is the director of the film about Rembrandt, which began in Paris on 8. September. Photographic results of eight months' film production shows the models, sets, decors, actors, with the film's background music. At the same location, portraits by Roberto Pellegrinuzzi shows faces in bone and flesh. Until Sunday, 26. September.

Renan by Nadar At Issy - there is an exhibition of about 30 photographic portraits by Nadar, of his contemporaries. Ernst Renan, who grew up in Issy, and was born three years after Gaspard Félix Tournachon, who was known as Nadar - an extraordinary character, who Renan thought, ended up as a 'refugee in the Botany Bay' of photography. Other faces on show are Dumas, Hugo, George Sand, Balzac and Thiers.

Musée Français de la Carte à Jouer, 16. Rue Auguste Gervais, Issy-les-Moulineaux. Métro: Mairie de Issy. Until Sunday, 28. November; open on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays, from 10:00 to 19:00.

Catacombs Photo Show - some Parisians have their bones on permanent view in the Catacombs, which are underneath where I live. These are adorned with pithy signs and some of these can be seen in this exhibition. The texts are not only in French, but in Latin, Greek, Italian and even Swedish - so take a translator. "Arrête! C'est ici l'Empire de la mort," is one example that has been photographed.

The Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. Open from Tuesday to Friday, from 14:00 to 18:00; and on weekends from 9:00 to 11:00 and from 14:00 to 16:00. On view until 14. February 2000, no less. I see the lineups for this every day except Mondays.

Paris Jazz Festival - at the Parc Floral de Paris. The dates are - 'every' Saturday at 16:30, until Saturday, 25. September - and the concerts are free and no less good because of it. The 30th birthday of the Parc Floral also marks the 6th edition of its Festival 'Classique au Vert,' which features free concerts on Sundays at 16:30. 'Les Pestacles' are on every Wednesday at 14:30 for children from three to ten. Métro: Château de Vincennes. Info. Tel.: 01 43 43 92 95.

1 Monde Réel - the Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain was created in 1984 and since 1994 has been in its present location. The current exhibition asks itself the question about 'the dialectical relations and infinite riches between imaginary and act, known and unknown territories, present and dream, experience of the real and fiction.' In other words, this is a science fiction show because its objects were created by artists instead of engineers.

Until Sunday, 14. November. Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain, 261. Boulevard Raspail, Paris 14. Métro: Raspail or Denfert-Rochereau. Except Mondays, open daily from 12:00 to 20:00. Info. Tel.: 01 42 18 56 51.

Yves Mikaeloff Meets Kids - and likes telling them what his artistic installations are about, but talks about almost everything else too. Until Thursday, 30. September, at the Orangerie in the Parc de Bercy, 31. Rue Paul-Belmondo, Paris 12. Métro: Bercy. For times, call Info. Tel.: 01 53 46 19 04.

Beneath the Maps - A history of maps, especially those of Paris, are featured in all their details in a current exhibition lasting until Sunday, 3. October at the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevardphoto: route du poisson Morland, Pa ris 4. Métro: Sully Morland. Info. Tel.: 01 42 76 33 97. See the feature about the Hôpital Saint-Louis, which this exhibition suggested to me.

Theatre In the Green - Four shows will be presented outside, weather permitting. See Shakespeare's 'Peines d'Amour Perdu,' until Monday, 4. October, on Saturdays and Sundays. All in the magical Shakespeare Garden, within the Jardin du Pré-Catelan, Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Info. Tel.: 01 40 19 95 33.

Hommage à Moustapha Dimé - the sculptor lived on the island of Gorée, out in the Atlantic off the coast of Dakar. Dimé, who died in 1998, was picking up prizes for his sculptures at Johannesburg and at the Biannual of Venice. Exhibition at the Hôtel de Ville's Salle Saint-Jean, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. The hours are from 11:00 to 19:00 daily except Mondays. Until Sunday, 14. November.

Demures - is the name of the exhibition at the Musée Zadkine which continues until Sunday, 17. October. At the Musée Zadkine, 100 bis, Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Open daily from 10:00 to 17:30, except Mondays.

Seine Cruising; Bike Cruising

Batobus - the city's bus on the Seine is something to think about if your feet get tired from walking beside it. Down on the water there is a different view too. All-day tickets are not overly expensive and allow getting on and off as often as you wish. From the Tour Eiffel to Saint-Michel there are about four landings and there are two on the right bank at the Hôtel de Ville and the Louvre.

Rent-a-Bike - details about the RATP's 'Roue Libre' and other bike rental possibilities are included in a previous 'Scene' column.


Long-Running Exhibitions, Shows and Events:

'Balzac - Superstar' - is a phrase I heard on the radio recently. The 'Maison de Balzac' reopened with a new exhibition of artistic works. The exhibition is now over - but the Web has swung into gear for the bi-centenary of Balzac's birth . In addition to the Web site above you may want to take a look at this other one, to see complete texts and illustrations. Theseposter: parfum de l'encre ©r&m papp collection amounted to, at his death, 10,816 pages in 97 volumes. The coming exhibition, 'La Femme, Mode d'Emploi,' begins on Wednesday, 6. October. The museum's library reopens on Sunday, 19. September. Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Info. Tel.: 01 42 24 56 38.

Illustration from 'Le Parfum de l'Encre, Peintures Chinoises' show.

Jean Moulin, 1899-1943 - This is a special exhibition, on the occasion of the anniversary of Jean Moulin's birth. At the Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris et Musée Jean Moulin, Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Until 2. January 2000, daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. Catalogue available, 80 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

Some of the above items have been carried over for many issues of this magazine. If you require more information - such as addresses or phone numbers - check 'All Past Issues' either from here, or from the top or bottom of any page in the magazine.

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