After the Big Shows

photo: same day event ticket kiosk

For same-day theatre and concert tickets, this kiosk
is on the west side of the Madeleine.

The Fun and Games Season

Paris:- Saturday, 25. September 1999:- If I got invited to any new openings during the week I missed them because I am thinking more about food for the body rather than the soul these days.

My cultural activities during the past week were restricted to seeing a couple of Russian movies on TV, more or less by accident because I don't buy a TV guide. Not having cable-TV helps to reduce the choice to an occasional 'classic' film shown by the national networks, but I generally find that the Franco-German 'cultural' Arte-TV channel has what I want - like off-the-wall Russian films. I also saw half of a Mongolian film.

Some of This Week's New Stuff:

Paris Match's 'Eye' - belonged to Roger Thérond when he picked photos for France's famous illustrated weekly. From his vast collection, 240 views have been selected, divided into 15 themes and these will go on show from Wednesday, 6. October to Sunday, 9. January at the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

Salon d'Automne - almost a century old, this is a showcase for 'contemporary' art in France. Painters, sculptors, engravers and other artists will be on display from Friday, 8. October untilposter: thr fontaine, breves de comptoir Sunday, 17. October, at the Espace Eiffel-Branly. From 11:00 to 19:00; and until 22:00 on 8, 12, and 15. October. Address: 29-55. Quai Branly, Paris 7.

Les Nouvelles Brèves de Comptoir - are witty or pithy sayings collected in cafés, bars and bistros by Jean-Marie Gourio, who has been eavesdropping since 1987. This new collection covers the period from 1994 until now; and they have been gathered together by director Jean-Michel Ribes for presentation in the Théâtre Fontaine, 10. Rue Fontaine, Paris 9. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 74 40.

The Châtelet Reopening - is scheduled for Friday, 8. October. Completely renovated, this large theatre belonging to the city has programmed 210 performances and has 276,297 seats for sale for the 1999-2000 season. Two pieces by Gluck start off Châtelet's new life, with music by John Eliot Gardiner and direction by Robert Wilson. Info. Tel.: 01 40 28 28 00.

Play Ball! - will be heard when France's 'world' series plays off on Saturday, 2. October and Sunday, 3. October in the Pershing stadium. As an extra bonus, the Montagnais team from Québec will be on hand. This will also mark the 75th anniversary of the French Federation of Baseball, Hardball and Cricket. In the Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Info. Tel.: 01 44 68 89 30; which is the Federation's number.

Les Champs de la Sculpture 2000 - this open-air sculpture show was mounted for the first time in 1996 andphoto: champs de la sculpture, b mahon this year's new edition gets the '2000' label too. Of the 52 pieces to be on view, most have never been shown in France before. One reason for this is that about half of the works have been executed especially for this free exhibition.

The artists represent five continents and 25 of the pieces I saw on my visit were dated 1999 In addition, only the works of living artists are on show -with works dating from 1960 to the '90's. Photos of the works are appearing in Metropole; in this column and in the '2000 In Paris' column.

Detail from Brigitte Nahon's 'Le Passage' - part of the Champs sculpture show.

On the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, from the Rond-Point to the Place de la Concorde, Paris 8. Métros: Franklin Roosevelt, Champs-Elysées Clemenceau and Concorde. Continues until Sunday, 14. November.

Salut les Artistes! - announces the Chaillot 1999/2000 season - its 80th - which started last week. Details from this program may follow in this column, but if you want to be up-to-date right now give the Web site of the Théâtre National de Chaillot a hit or call the Info. Tel.: 01 53 65 30 00.

'Le Tartuffe' - is by Molière, and is the only French play I've seen 2/3rds of. This representation is directed by Jean-Marie Villégier and it is playing in the Grand Salle of the Athénée Théâtre Louis-Jouvet, which is in the square of the same name - or at 7. Rue Boudreau, Paris 9. Tuesday at 19:00, Wednesday to Saturday at 20:00 and Sunday at 16:00. Info. Tel.: 01 53 05 19 19.

Magic Cinéma Season - this is another season's program and the Magic Cinéma has a Web site too - thus saving me having to write out all the details. The cinema is located in the Rue du Chemin Vert, in Bobigny. Info. Tel.: 01 41 60 12 34.

Destination: Pleasure - is the title of a new booklet put out by the RATP bus service, outlining their touring services for the rest of this year. These tours involve Paris, the Ile-de-France and further afield. Find the booklet and make reservations at the RATP kiosk, at the east side of the Madeleine church in front of the flower market. Métro: Madeleine. Info. Tel.: 01 40 06 71 45.

Ulysses's Europe - was also known as the Bronze Age, which lasted from 2000 to 750 BC. Archaeologists have found that people travelled from Scandinavia to the Aegean and the near-east. This coming exhibition presents 200 pieces from the time. This exhibition begins on Thursday, 30 September and continues until 10. January 2000. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 47 47.

Le Dépôt Matignon - is having a series of exhibitions and the current one features Lisa Zirner's paintings, which will begin today, Sunday, 26. September. At 8. Rue Jean Mermoz, Paris 8. Métro: Franklin Roosevelt. Info. Tel.: 01 45 63 33 00.

Paris' Fall Season

Chardin's Still Lifes - are called 'Natures Mortes' in French, which sort of means 'dead nature' which photo: side entry grand palaisis not what is meant at all. Jean Siméon Chardin didn't finish paintings until they were finished in his eyes - which he kept open for 80 years until his death in 1779.

The 'side-door' entry to the Grand Palais.

In pre-photographic times, interior light was also inferior, so Chardin's production of 200 exquisitely detailed still lifes is something of a record. For this major exhibition, 95 of them are on display at the Grand Palais until Monday, 22. November. Except Tuesdays, daily from 10:00 to 20:00 and on Wednesdays until 22:00. Reservations are required for morning visits. At the Square Jean-Perrin, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 47.

India Ink - is behind an exhibition titled 'Le Parfum de l'Encre, Peintures Chinoises de la Collection Roy et Marilyn Papp.' I liked india ink, but I think what this exhibition of 53 works will show is Chinese artists from the Ming Period -1349-1644 - and the Qing Period - 1644-1911 - were absolute masters of it. Starting Friday, 24. September, this exhibition continues until Thursday, 30. December. To be at the Musée Cernuschi, 7. Avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers or Monceau. Info. Tel.: 01 45 63 50 75.

Jean Béraud et le Paris de la Belle Epoque - While the impressionists were all the rage a century ago, Jean Béaud recorded in paint the streets and byways of the City of Light, capturing the charm and the spirit of it. With the publication of the first critical catalogue of Béaud's works by Patrick Offenstadt, this exhibition presents 60 representative works. From Wednesday, 29. September until 2. February 2000. To be at the Musée Carnavalet, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

Sand - Musset: 'Les Enfants du Siècle' - this exhibition displays all the background involved with the making of the film 'Les Enfants du Siècle' by Diane Kurys.

The story is about the legendary passion between George Sand and the young Alfred de Mussat. On show are the film's storyboard by Maxime Rabière, costumes for the film by Christian Lacroix, decor by Philippe Turlure and photographs by Marion Stalens. From Tuesday, 21. September until 9. January, 2000. Musée de la Vie Romantique, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Blanche or Pigalle. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Festival Internationale de Danse - from Tuesday, 28. September to Sunday, 2. October: the Ballet de la Communidad de Madrid; and from Monday, 4. October to Friday, 8. October: the Ballet Nationale de Marseille. The location: Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, 15. Avenue Montaigne, Paris 8. Info. Tel.: 01 49 52 50 50

La Valse du Hasard - is a teeth-gritting comedy, located between paradise and hell. Directed by Jacques Auxenel, it features Annie Chaplin and Thierry Debuyser. At 20:30 from Tuesday to Saturday; at 16:30 on Sundays. At the Théâtre du Renard, 12. Rue du Renard, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. Info. Tel.: 01 42 71 46 50.

Les Yeux Dans la Bière - has been loosely inspired by songs by Jacques Brel, and this piece has been put together by the Bla-Bla Theatre Company, featuring Raba. The show is on Fridays and Saturdays at 19:00. Théâtre des Déchargeurs, 3. Rue des Déchargeurs, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet. Info. Tel.: 01 42 36 00 02.

Festival d'Ile de France - takes place for the tenth time in the area surrounding Paris which is not quite as big as Texas, but is big enough to be a complicated transport affair. Some of its events take place within Paris - so the best thing to do if you want details of the events - mainly musical - is to consult the Web site of the Ile-de-France, or phone 01 44 94 28 50. This festival has already started and continues until Sunday, 17. October.

Patchwork, Quilts and Textiles - 50 of the best contemporary French works have been chosen for this exhibition, which will later go on tour in Germany and the United States. See these modern - modern art - needle-and-thread works, until Saturday, 20. November. At the Bibliothèque Forney, 1. Rue de Figuier, Paris 4. Métro: Pont Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 42 78 14 60.

Mon Père Avait Raison - is a comedy by Sacha Guitry, directed by Jean-Claude Brialy. Frankly, I have no idea what the story is about, but the title is interesting and the names are well-known. From Tuesday to Friday at 20:30, on Saturdays at 21:00 and Sundays at 17:00. At the Bouffes Parisiens, 4. Rue Monsigny, Paris 2. Métro: 4. September. Info. Tel.: 01 42 96 92 42 - and tickets at the usual agencies.

Le Jardin Planétaire - is a huge exhibition about plants and people, about earth, vegetation, animals and climate; about what we know and about what we should do to keep the world fit for habitation as we pass into the third millennium. This veggie workshop takes up 8500 square metres of the Grand Halle at La Villette. It continues until 23. January 2000. From 10:00 to 18:00 Tuesdays to Fridays; from 11:00 to 19:00 on weekends. Grand Halle, La Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurés, Paris 19. Advance reservation tickets available at fnac, Bon Marché and Carrefour. Métro: Porte de Pantin.

Une Capitale Poëtique, 1850 - 1914 - is mainly a photographic exhibition. The works of Charles Marville fill in the second half of the 19th century and Eugène Atget's works begin in our century, now about to end.

The photos are organized thematically around the poets Nerval, Baudelaire, Rimbaud and Appollinaire. At the Bibliothèque Historique de Paris until Thursday, 7. October. Then it runs at the Bibliothèque Buffon until Wednesday, 10. November. Bibliothèque Historique de Paris, 22. Rue Mahler, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 44 59 29 60.

Animal - Antoine Bourdelle liked animals when he was a little kid, something he learned from his grandfather. Evenposter: cine magic 1999 2000 then, he made little models of them. The grown-up Bourdelle did even more with animals and this is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at the Musée Bourdelle, 16. Rue Antoine Bourdelle, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. Dates are from Friday, 24. September until 16. January 2000. Info. Tel.: 01 49 54 73 73.

Scène Est - is the new association name of the group of galleries in the rue Louise Weiss. Once again they together put on a joint exhibition of modern art works, starting on Wednesday, 15. September, which continues until Wednesday, 10. November. The area is close to the about-to-become 'East Paris' centre in the 13th arrondissement. Usual hours are from 11:00 to 19:00; except Mondays. Métro: Chevaleret.

Les Trois Mousquetaires - based on the novel by Alexandre Dumas, comes riding into the Théâtre du Rond-Point with a big supporting cast on Tuesday, 3. October and will stay there until 31. December. At 2 bis, Avenue Franklin-Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: Franklin-Roosevelt. Info. Tel.: 01 44 95 98 10.

The Musée de la Poupée - for the centenary of the Société Française de Fabrication de Bébés et Jouets, Paris' doll museum will have an exhibit of the 'Les Plus Belles,' dating from 1899 to 1957. Many of these are from private collections and some will be up for auction on Sunday, 26. September.

Starting on Tuesday, 5. October, this museum will be showing Bécassine, Bluette and the dolls that were featured in the 'Semaine de Suzette,' a weekly magazine for girls that was published from 1905 to 1960. These will be shown along with dolls made under the 'Corolle' name. Musée de la Poupée, Impasse Berthaud, Paris 3. Opposite the métro exit at Rambuteau. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

'Balzac - Superstar' - is a phrase I heard on the radio recently. The 'Maison de Balzac' reopened with a new exhibition of artistic works. The exhibition is now over - but the Web has swung into gear for the bi-centenary of Balzac's birth . In addition to the Web site above you may want to take a look at this other one, to see complete texts and illustrations. These amounted to, at his death, 10,816 pages in 97 volumes. The coming exhibition, 'La Femme, Mode d'Emploi,' begins on Wednesday, 6. October. The museum's library reopens on Sunday, 19. September. Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Info. Tel.: 01 42 24 56 38.

Elton John's Shades - is a musical comedy about rock-n-roll dreams of love and football, by ordinary people like you and me; by Davis Farr; adapted by Attica Guedj and Stephan Meldegg. Two tickets for the price of one, until Saturday, 2. October. At the Théâtre Tristan Bernard, 64. Rue du Rocher, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers or Europe. Info. Tel.: 01 45 22 08 40.

Don't Walk Around Naked - by Feydeau, is called 'Mais n'te promène donc pas toute nue!' in French, andposter: maupassant's le horla, thr lucernaire is called a 'Boulevard Comedy' and is funny if you understand French. Never on Sundays, but otherwise at 20:00, at the Théâtre Lucernaire, 53. Rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs. Info. Tel.: 01 45 44 57 34.

'Le Horla' - is by Maupassent, and is guaranteed to cause shivers. The director will be Régis Gayrard and features Jean-Marc Galera. This piece starts at the Théâtre Lucernaire on Monday, 4. October.

Yves Mikaeloff Meets Kids - and likes telling them what his artistic installations are about, but talks about almost everything else too. Until Thursday, 30. September, at the Orangerie in the Parc de Bercy, 31. Rue Paul-Belmondo, Paris 12. Métro: Bercy. For times, call Info. Tel.: 01 53 46 19 04.

Billie Holiday's Last Blues - is a show devoted to Billie Holiday, her work and her life. Written by Lanie Robertson and directed by Georges Werler. The runs until Friday, 15. October, from Tuesdays to Saturdays, at 20:30. At the Kiron Espace, 10. Rue La Vacquerie, Paris 11. Métro: Voltaire. Info. Tel.: 01 44 64 11 50.

Paris' Photo September:

Renan by Nadar At Issy - there is an exhibition of about 30 photographic portraits by Nadar, of his contemporaries. Ernst Renan, who grew up in Issy, and was born three years after Gaspard Félix Tournachon, who was known as Nadar - an extraordinary character, who Renan thought, ended up as a 'refugee in the Botany Bay' of photography. Other faces on show are Dumas, Hugo, George Sand, Balzac and Thiers.

Musée Français de la Carte à Jouer, 16. Rue Auguste Gervais, Issy-les-Moulineaux. Métro: Mairie de Issy. Until Sunday, 28. November; open on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays, from 10:00 to 19:00.

Catacombs Photo Show - some Parisians have their bones on permanent view in the Catacombs, which are underneath where I live. These are adorned with pithy signs and some of these can be seen in this exhibition. The texts are not only in French, but in Latin, Greek, Italian and even Swedish - so take a translator. "Arrête! C'est ici l'Empire de la mort," is one example that has been photographed.

The Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. Open from Tuesday to Friday, from 14:00 to 18:00; and on weekends from 9:00 to 11:00 and from 14:00 to 16:00. On view until 14. February 2000, no less. I see the lineups for this every day except Mondays.

Beneath the Maps - A history of maps, especially those of Paris, are featured in all their details in a current exhibition lasting until Sunday, 3. October at the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevardbrochure: ratp buses, destinations plaisir Morland, Pa ris 4. Métro: Sully Morland. Info. Tel.: 01 42 76 33 97. See the feature about the Hôpital Saint-Louis, which this exhibition suggested to me.

'Palmiers' - Between Sun and Shade - is an wildly sublime palm tree exhibition I visited early in June and wrote about as 'The Year-Round Winter Garden.' This exhibition is continuing until Sunday, 10. October. At the Jardin des Serres d'Auteuil, 3. Avenue de la Porte d'Auteuil, Paris 16. Open daily from 10:00 to 19:00. Métro: Porte d'Auteuil or Michel-Ange Molitor. Info. Tel.: 01 40 71 76 07.

Theatre In the Green - Four shows will be presented outside, weather permitting. See Shakespeare's 'Peines d'Amour Perdu,' until Monday, 4. October, on Saturdays and Sundays. All in the magical Shakespeare Garden, within the Jardin du Pré-Catelan, Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Info. Tel.: 01 40 19 95 33.

Seine Cruising; Bike Cruising

Batobus - the city's bus on the Seine is something to think about if your feet get tired from walking beside it. Down on the water there is a different view too. All-day tickets are not overly expensive and allow getting on and off as often as you wish. From the Tour Eiffel to Saint-Michel there are about four landings and there are two on the right bank at the Hôtel de Ville and the Louvre.

Rent-a-Bike - details about the RATP's 'Roue Libre' and other bike rental possibilities are included in a previous 'Scene' column.

Cyberposte - La Poste promised and La Poste delivers - 1000 post offices in France have been outfitted with Apple's iMacs and it is connected to the Internet, possibly making La Poste the world biggest cybercafé without a café. What you do is buy a rechargeable Cyberposte card for 50 francs, which is good for one hour of network time. A recharge of the card only costs 30 francs and it can be recharged as often as you want. You can also get a personal email account.


1 Monde Réel - the Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain was created in 1984 and since 1994 has been in its present location. The current exhibition asks itself the question about 'the dialectical relations and infinite riches between imaginary and act, knownposter: la tartuffe, thr athenee and unknown territories, present and dream, experience of the real and fiction.' In other words, this is a science fiction show because its objects were created by artists instead of engineers.

Until Sunday, 14. November. Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain, 261. Boulevard Raspail, Paris 14. Métro: Raspail or Denfert-Rochereau. Except Mondays, open daily from 12:00 to 20:00. Info. Tel.: 01 42 18 56 51.

Hommage à Moustapha Dimé - the sculptor lived on the island of Gorée, out in the Atlantic off the coast of Dakar. Dimé, who died in 1998, was picking up prizes for his sculptures at Johannesburg and at the Biannual of Venice. Exhibition at the Hôtel de Ville's Salle Saint-Jean, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. The hours are from 11:00 to 19:00 daily except Mondays. Until Sunday, 14. November.

Messages from the Other-World - part of this show is from Lausanne's collection 'Art Brut;' some of the 30 artists represented are William Blake, Marguerite Burnat-Provins, Minnie Evans, Madge Gill, Heinrich Nüsslein, Laure Pigeon and Victorien Sardou. Until 27. February, 2000. At the Halle Saint-Pierre, 2. Rue Ronsard, Paris 18. Métro: Anvers. Info. Tel.: 01 42 58 72 89.

Demures - is the name of the exhibition at the Musée Zadkine which continues until Sunday, 17. October. At the Musée Zadkine, 100 bis, Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Open daily from 10:00 to 17:30, except Mondays.

Jean Moulin, 1899-1943 - This is a special exhibition, on the occasion of the anniversary of Jean Moulin's birth. At the Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris et Musée Jean Moulin, Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Until 2. January 2000, daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. Catalogue available, 80 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

The Cinémathèque Française - is France's movie museum and it has a constant program of rare film projections. The museum operates in two locations: at the Palaisbrochure: thr chaillot, salut les artistes de Chaillot, garden entry; and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Auto-Info Tel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

2000 In Paris - Metropole has had two 'Scene' columns. This one continues to be for actual and coming events, and this week's '2000 In Paris' column features events - up to next summer - related to Paris' 'millennium party' - and includes some details concerning New Years Eve.

Some of the above items have been carried over for many issues of this magazine. If you require more information - such as addresses or phone numbers - check 'All Past Issues' either from here, or from the top or bottom of any page in the magazine.

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