Not Moses of the 'Flood'

photo: theatre chatelet reopens

Paris' theatre palace at Châtelet reopens.

This Week and Next In Paris

Paris:- Saturday, 23. October 1999:- Just as I am about to wrap up this week's column by writing that I have nothing special to say for opening remarks, my eye drops to a newspaper clipping right under my nose.

It concerns an exhibition by a cartoonist named Mose, which I thought might be an exhibition about the 'Flood' or something, but actually concerns an 80-year-old relic named Moise Depont, who belongs to a loose group called the Humoristes Associés, which includes some other big 'names.' See his 'Images Imaginaires' until Friday, 12. November, at the Atelier André-Girard, 7. Rue Campagne-Première, Paris 14. Métro: Vavin or Raspail. From Tuesday to Friday, from 12:30 to 18:30.

It is nearly time for Paris' Mois de la Photo to start. If I remember my own note from the '2000 in Paris' page, this years' one month-six weeks photo extravaganza will last until next summer. I have not seen any mention of it, probably on account of being smothered by Halloween decorations.

8th Festival de Théâtre Hispanique - is mainly Spanish, but also features artists from Argentina and Cuba, who fill this location with theatre, dance and a Flamenco concertposter: 'les batisseurs d'empire' theatre l'eprouvantail as a final event on 28. November. Begins on Friday, 5. November. Vingtième Théâtre,7. Rue des Plâtrières, Paris 20. Métro: Ménilmontant. Info. Tel.: 01 43 66 01 13.

Les Bâtisseurs d'Empire - or 'Le Schmüz' is by Boris Vian, who was a postwar man of all arts. This particular play is directed by Daniél Lacroix and it can be seen until Sunday, 28. November at the Théâtre de l'Epouvantail, 6. Rue de la Folie Méricourt, Paris 11. Métro: Saint-Amboise. Info. Tel.: 01 43 55 14 80.

Turner et la Seine - Turner turned his eye to the Seine often between 1802 and 1832, with a systematic exploration beginning in 1820. 150 resulting watercolors are on show until the end of January at the Pavillon des Arts, Les Halles, Porte Rambuteau, Terrace Lautréamont, Paris 1. Except Mondays and holidays, open daily from 11:00 to 18:30. Info. Tel.: 01 42 33 82 50.

Guide du Sport - is a booklet published by the Ville de Paris. Including its index, a compact 287 pages about sporty activities possible in Paris, which may contradict your impression that everybody is either eating or holding up the bars in cafés. This free guide is available in any of Paris' 21 city halls until stocks are exhausted.

Issy's Saison Artistique - is outlined in a thick brochure, which lists events in the nearby Paris suburb of Issy-les-Moulineaux from now until May 2000. Handy, there is one event per page and these pages can be torn out and posted at eye-level as a reminder. But the brochure is also a reminder of the vast richness of the cultural scene outside of Paris - which shows the impossibility of detailing every event in a column like this one.

For example, Issy has its own extensive Halloween program. It starts next Saturday at 14:30 with makeup lessons for kids and a show named 'La Légende Miss T. Rieuse,' which is supposed to scare the little darlings out of their wits. At 20:00, there will be a costume ball for adults, with free entry for their kids. Multiply this by all the towns and villages in the Ile-de-France.

Paris-Banlieues-Tango - Last year about this time Norman Barth send me an email, asking if I knew about Paris' Tango Festival and the Tango's 100th anniversary. He wondered whether anybody would be interested in it.

He wrote then, "Many people may not be aware of the connections between Tango and Paris, or that Carlos Gardel - the 'Caruso' of Tango - was born in Toulouse; immigrated with his mother at age four to Argentina, and returned in 'triumph' at the height of his career, to Paris."

This year must be Tango's 101th anniversary and I have no information about it except for a program, which is three pages long, crammed full of tiny text. Fortunately the Paris-Banlieues-Tango has a Web site - and its program should be up and running. For information, write to the FAMA or call Info. Tel.: 01 48 87 74 23. The 60 days of Tango continue until Sunday, 5. December. The Fondation Argentine at the Cité Universitaire is also behind this.

Cabaret Tango - is outside the official program of Tango madness, butposter: java do brasil features it all the same every Wednesday at 20:30 to 00:30. Bring your red shoes! At La Java, 105. Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, Paris 10. Métro: Belleville. Info. Tel.: 01 42 02 20 52.

Java do Brasil - is a do-it-yourself affair every Thursday night, starting at 23:00 and continuing until dawn, at La Java, 105. Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, Paris 11. Métro: Belleville. Info. Tel.: 01 42 02 20 52.

Le Coup d'Etat du 18 Brumaire, An VIII - is a exhibition-dossier of the original text of a proclamation by the General-in-Chief Bonaparte, issued at 11 o'clock in the evening of 10. November 1799. It begins, "On my return to Paris, I found the authorities divided and that the Constitution was half destroyed, unable to save liberty." This is accompanied by a decree, issued the day before - ordering the legislature to Saint-Cloud.

On view, except Tuesdays, from Monday to Friday, 12:00 to 17:45; on Saturday and Sunday, from 13:45 to 17:45; until Friday, 31. December. Centre Historique des Archives Nationales, Musée d'Historie de France, Hôtel de Soubise, 60. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3. Info. Tel.: 01 40 27 62 18. And at the Musée Municipal de Saint-Cloud, 60. Rue Gounod, Saint-Cloud. Info. Tel.: 01 46 02 67 18.

Coming Soon

Brésil Baroque - Between Earth and Sky - 500 years ago next 22. April, Alvarès Cabrai found an unknown land, which is known as Brazil today. Apparently unlike Peru or Mexico, Brazil was a blank slate, to be filled in by Indians, Africans and Europeans. The resulting art is little known in Europe and this exhibition will change our 'blank slate' view of it.

This exhibition begins on Thursday, 4. November and continues until 6. February. Next spring, 30 centuries of Mexican art will take over, also in the Petit Palais, Avenue du Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. Except Monday, open from 10:00 to 17:40; to 20:00 on Thursdays. Catalogue available. Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

Portrait of Mexico - as part of the '2000 in Paris' salute to the new world of the Americas, a film history of Mexico is a current attraction at the Forum des Images-Vidéothèque. This is in the Forum des Halles, by the Porte Saint-Eustache entry, Paris 1. Info. Tel.: 01 44 76 62 00.

Other New Stuff:

Hommage à Bernard Anthonioz - editor and contemporary of André Malraux, Bernard Anthonioz touched nearly everything classified as art today. This exhibition shows works of artists he supported, from Picasso and Braque, to Cueco and Viallat. Until Sunday, 2. January, at the Couvent des Cordeliers, 15. Rue de l'Ecole de Médecine, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon or Cluny-La Sorbonne. Open Tuesday at Sunday, from 11:00 to 19:00. Info. Tel.: 01 43 29 39 64.

La Femme, Mode d'Emploi - 'Balzac - Superstar' is a phrase making the rounds at the moment, due in part to waves he made 170 years ago with the publication of 'Méditation de Philosophie Electique Sur le Bonheur et Malheur Conjugal' - or, 'Physiologie du Mariage' for short.

The heavy name of the work is a smokescreen for an ironic parody, intended as a 'Guide for Bachelors.' It was dropped like a bomb into a society which held the day's rigid customs of marriage to be politically and morally untouchable.

Balzac had 'scientific' aid, provided by the experiences of two of his mistresses, to lend authenticity and authority to the work, and even provided interesting 'statistics,' worthy of later work by Masters and Johnson. Contemporary cartoons by Monnier, Gavarni and Daumier round out the picture. This exhibition continues until Tuesday, 4. January.

At the 'Maison de Balzac.' Its library reopened in mid-September and the Web has swung into gear for the bi-centenary of Balzac's birth. In addition to the Web site above you may want to take a look at another one, to see complete texts and illustrations. Open daily except Monday, from 10:00 to 17:40. Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette or Passy. Info. Tel.: 01 42 24 56 38.

La Mort n'en Saura Rien - is an exhibition of 74 pieces or sets depicting how man faces death, from two widely separated civilizations; Europe and the islands of the oceans - selected for their aesthetic qualities from public and private collections. This exhibitionposter: clovis trouille, musee afrique et oceanie continues until 24. January 2000. Two other single-artist exhibitions begin on Friday, 29. October; featuring the Moroccan artist Farid Belkahia and the little-known Clovis Trouville. These continue until Monday, 3. January.

Image by Clovis Trouille. ©Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie

At the Musée National des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, 293. Avenue Daumesnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée and bus 46. Open daily except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 17:30. Entry fee for the temporary exhibitions includes access to the permanent collection of art from Africa and the islands of the oceans. Info. Tel.: 01 43 46 51 61.

Musée d'Art et d'Historie du Judaïsme - has two shows: the first is entitled 'Regards - Sur la Vie Juive au Maroc' and the second, in the 'Chambre du Duc,' will present the works of Jean-Pierre Bertrand with the title 'Ethrog, 1999.' Both exhibitions continue until Sunday, 2. January 2000.

The museum is open from Monday to Friday, from 11:00 to 18:00 and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. Info Tel.: 01 53 01 86 53 and Fax.: 33 1 42 72 97 47. Since it is a new museum, there is also an Internet address youposter: regards sur maroc, musee juif can write to for information. Musée d'Art et d'Historie du Judaïsme, in the Hôtel de Saint-Aignan. This is 'in' the Marais, at 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau.

Jean-Sans-Peur's Tower Reopens - 'John-Without-Fear' was scared witless by the potential revenge of the Armagnacs, so he built himself an early 15th century fortified tower as a 'security-blanket.' Renovated over the past 13 years, its six floors are now open to the public on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday, from 13:30 to 18:00. During school holidays, open every day except Monday. At 20. Rue Etienne Marcel, Paris 2. Métro: Etienne Marcel. Info. Tel.: 01 42 61 55 02.

Hadrian's 'Hôtel' - was actually a villa, because he was a Roman; one known to prefer walls to towers. His Villa Adriana, rediscovered at the end of the 18th century, has yielded treasures which are now on display at the Mairie of the 5th; assembled as a set for the first time. On view until Sunday, 19. December; from 11:00 to 17:45 during the week and from 14:00 to 17:45 on Sundays. Mairie of the 5th, 21. Place de la Panthéon, Paris 5.

The Musée de la Poupée - this small museum is showing Bécassine, Bluette and the dolls that were featured in the 'Semaine de Suzette,' a weekly magazine for girls that was published from 1905 to 1960. These will be shown along with dolls made under the 'Corolle' name. Musée de la Poupée, Impasse Berthaud, Paris 3. In a dead-end opposite the métro exit at Rambuteau. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Current Big Exhibitions:

Les Champs de la Sculpture 2000 - this open-air sculpture show was mounted for the first time in 1996 and this year's new edition gets the '2000' label too. Of the 52 pieces to on view, most have never been shown in France before. One reason for this is that about half ofphoto: champs fe la sculture the works have been executed especially for this free exhibition.

The artists represent five continents and 25 of the pieces I saw on my visit were dated 1999. In addition, only the works of living artists are on show -with works dating from 1960 to the '90's.

Vladimir Skoda's 'Istem/Atlanpol' on the Champs-Elysées.

On the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, from the Rond-Point to the Place de la Concorde, Paris 8. Métros: Franklin Roosevelt, Champs-Elysées Clemenceau and Concorde. Continues until Sunday, 14. November.

Théo Van Gogh, Dealer, Collector - and brother of Vincent Van Gogh, put all his resources into his family, his collection and to promoting the 'unsalable' production of his brother. Théo followed all the 'isms' of the day and this varied show reflects many of them, from Camille Corot to Camille Pissarro - as well as his brother, Vincent. Until Sunday, 9. January. Except Monday, daily from 10:00 to 18:00; Sundays from 9:00 to 18:00. Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion-d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER 'C' Musée d'Orsay. Info. Tel.: 01 40 49 48 84.

Chardin's Still Lifes - are called 'Natures Mortes' in French, which sort of means 'dead nature' which is not what is meant at all. Jean Siméon Chardin didn't finish paintings until they were finished in his eyes - which he kept open for 80 years until his death in 1779.

In pre-photographic times, interior light was also inferior, so Chardin's production of 200 exquisitely detailed still lifes is something of a record. For this major exhibition, 95 of them are on display at the Grand Palais until Monday, 22. November. Except Tuesdays, daily from 10:00 to 20:00 and on Wednesdays until 22:00. Reservations are required for morning visits. At the Square Jean-Perrin, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 47.

India Ink - is behind an exhibition titled 'Le Parfum de l'Encre, Peintures Chinoises de la Collection Roy et Marilyn Papp.' I have used a lot of india ink, but I think what this exhibition of 53 works will show is Chinese artists from the Ming Period -1349-1644 - and the Qing Period - 1644-1911 - were absolute masters of it. Starting Friday, 24. September, this exhibition continues until Thursday, 30. December. To be at the Musée Cernuschi, 7. Avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers or Monceau. Info. Tel.: 01 45 63 50 75.

Jean Béraud et le Paris de la Belle Epoque - While the impressionists were all the rage a century ago, Jean Béaud recorded in paint the streets and byways of the City of Light, capturing the charm and the spirit of it. This exhibition presents 60 representative works and it continues until 2. February 2000, at the Musée Carnavalet, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

'Pas Si Bêtes! 1000 Cerveaux, 1000 Mondes' - Paris' Grande Galerie de l'Evolution du Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle has an exhibition about the possible interactivity between brains. I don't have any info about this other than the address of the Web version, which will be online until 10. July 2000. The museum is in the Jardin des Plantes, with its entry at 36. Rue Geoffrey Saint-Hillaire, Paris 5. Métro: Place Monge is closest.

Ulysses's Europe - was also known as the Bronze Age, which lasted from 2000 to 750 BC. Archaeologists have found that people travelled from Scandinavia to the Aegean and the near-east. This coming exhibition presents 200 pieces from the time. This exhibition continues until 10. January 2000. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 47 47.

Le Jardin Planétaire - is a huge exhibition about plants and people, about earth, vegetation, animals and climate; about what we know and about what we should do to keep the world fit for habitation as we pass into the third millennium. This veggie workshop takes up 8500 square metres of the Grand Halle at La Villette. It continues until 23. January 2000. From 10:00 to 18:00 Tuesdays to Fridays; from 11:00 to 19:00 on weekends. Grand Halle, La Villtte, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurés, Paris 19. Advance reservation tickets available at fnac, Bon Marché and Carrefour. Métro: Porte de Pantin.


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