Events Become Surreal

photo: pont neuf & samaritaine, night

The Pont Neuf and Samaritaine by the
evening's early light.

Not Many 'One-Nighters'

Paris:- Saturday, 6. November 1999:- There is so much stuff in this column that I am adding nothing here. Take it or leave it, but catch Geraldo's one night stand today:

Geraldo Azevedo - does a one evening performance from the heart of northeastphoto: geraldo azevedo Brazil; at the Bataclan, today, on Monday, 8. November, at 20:00. The Bataclan, 50. Boulevard Voltaire, Paris 11. Métro: Oberkampf. Info. Tel.: 01 43 14 35 35.

Robert Desnos - was a popular pioneer surrealist. All surrealism was pioneering, but not all of it was 'popular.' Desnos is having homage paid to him apparently at the bookshop of the Paris' Bibliothéque Historique, which is a few doors away from the Bibliothéque Historique itself, in the Rue Pavée. Exhibition at 22. Rue Malher, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 44 59 29 60.

La Maison Fournaise - is a 19th century guinguette, on an island in the Seine near Chatou. The nearby Grenouille, a floating café at Croissy, was too animated with boaters and bathers for Renoir, so he immortalized La Maison Fournaise with his 'Le Déjeuner des Canotiers.' The canoe fans came every weekend, and they still do because of the adjacent boatworks. Guy de Maupassant was another guest of the riverside café, and he included it in his 'La Femme de Paul, Mouche, Yvette.'

From Thursday, 18. November until 2. April 2000, La Maison Fournaise presents its history and its former guests. On the Ile des Impressionistes, in Chatou. Take 'RER' line 'A' to Rueil-Malmaison or Chatou-Croissy. Open from Thursday to Sunday, from 11:00 to 17:00. Info. Tel.: 01 34 80 63 22.

Rivages - is an exhibition featuring 200 watercolors depicting the sights and treasures to be found at the water's edge, from the Côte d'Opale on the Riviera to the bay of Mont Saint-Michel or the calanques near Cassis. Part of this expo comes from the Museum of Natural History and also has an aquarium, plus sails rippling in the wind. At the Espace Electra, 6. Rue Récamier, Paris 7. Open daily except Monday, from 12:00 to 19:00. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone. Info. Tel.: 01 53 63 23 45.

Le Bon Roi Dagobert? - is staged by the Campagnie Patchwork; as a musical fantasy for kids from four to nine. As odd as it may sound, Dagobert was a French king and when he started out, he was not 'bon' at all. At the Théâtre de l'Espace Jemmapes, 116. Quai de Jemmapes, Paris 10. Métro: Gare de l'Est or Jacques Bonsergent. Continues until Sunday, 28. November. On Wednesdays and school holidays at 14:30; on Saturdays and Sundays at 15:00. Tickets: fnac, Carrefour, France Billet, or Info. Tel.: 01 48 03 11 99.

L'Amant Anglaise - by Marguerite Duras, is directed by Patrice Kerbrat and features Suzanne Plon, Jean-Paum Roussillon and Hubert Godon. There is a crime, an innocent, a guilty party and an incomprehensible act. Which is which? At the Théâtre de l'Oeuvre, 55. Rue de Clichy, Paris 9. Tuesday to Friday at 21:00, Saturday at 19:00 and 21:30 and Sunday at 15:30. Info. Tel.: 01 44 53 88 88.

Eve Anderson - is a play written by Michelle Robert Reich and directed by Hugo Ezan, featuring Irma Schmitt et Estelle Grynszpan who play opposing roles at the end of WWII. The theatre is unusual because it only has 30 seats; reservations are suggested. Fridays and Saturdays at 20:30 and 17:00 on Sundays. Until Sunday, 28. November, at the Théâtre Pandora, 30. Rue Keller, Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. Info. Tel.: 01 42 74 05 93.

Les Contes Drolatiques - is a piece by current superstar, Balzac, and this is one of his sexy works not taught in schools. Playing daily except Sundays, at 21:30 in the Théâtre Rouge, presented by the Théâtre Lucernaire, 53. Rue de Notre-Dame-des-Champs, Paris 6. Info. Tel.: 01 45 44 57 34.

Le Son des Guitares 99 - is a mini-festival featuring guitar players - such as Gwyn Ashton, Claude Barthélémy, Juan Carmona, Saïd Chraili and Ras Smaila - for upright guitar fans. Lessons and guitar tuning are on the program too. On Friday and Saturday, 19. and 20. November, in the Espace Lino Ventura, Place de l'Appel du 18 Juin 1940, in Torcy. Take the RER 'A' line to Chessy, but get off at Torcy and then take the bus 220 or 421. Info. Tel.: 01 60 37 37 60.

Mose - exhibits his cartoons, both new and originals of ones that have been published by the Paris press. While his latest stuff is more elaborate - paint, canvas - he cannot help putting in a 'gag.' Fine and good, but this gallery exhibition is also to sell his original cartoons - which still bear signs of the art directors' markups. If you care to meet Mose in person, he will be at the gallery on Tuesday, at about 15:00.

See his 'Images Imaginaires' until Friday, 12. November, at the Atelier André-Girard, 7. Rue Campagne-Première, Paris 14. Métro: Vavin or Raspail. From Tuesday to Friday, from 12:30 to 18:30.

Mirza Moric - has been quietly sitting under a canvas marquee in the Square René Viviani since Thursday, 9. September, watchingphoto: moric sculpture over a garden of his fantastic sculptures that nobody bothered to tell me about. The open-air expo is called 'Le Labyrinthe Sculptural.' If you tire of waiting for the scaffolding in front of Notre-Dame to come down, cross the Pont au Double to the left bank and enter the little park, which is also home to Paris' oldest or second-oldest tree.

With Mirza Moric, try to imagine Thai temple figures that have gone wild - rounder, exaggerated - but no less complex, which are strewn around this little square. While the 'modern' stuff at 'Les Champs de la Sculpture 2000' may leave you baffled, not so here. The exhibition continues until Sunday, 12. December. Paris 5. Métro: Saint-Michel or Cité. No phone.

Destins des Femmes - Colette as the symbol of women's destiny, is the subject of this exhibition of homage to Colette and all women who have this their mark on this century about to end. Open daily, from 10:00 to 19:00; until Sunday, 16. January. At the top of the Grande Arche at La Défense. Métro and RER: La Défense. Info. Tel.: 01 49 07 27 57.

Chatou's 42nd Salon des Beaux-Arts - this year also features honored painters from each of the past ten years, plus a hundred other contemporary artists. This year's honored artist is Pierre Rannaud, who has done the painting on the cover of the exhibition's brochure. From Saturday, 13. November until Sunday, 28. November. Open daily from 15:00 to 19:00; and on Saturdays and Sundays from 10:30 to 13:00 and from 14:30 to 19:00. At the Centre Artistique Jacques Catinat, 3. Place Maurice Berteaux. In Chatou. Take RER line 'A' to Chatou. Info. Tel.: 01 30 53 32 05.

8th Festival de Théâtre Hispanique - is mainly Spanish, but also features artists from Argentina and Cuba, who fill this location with theatre, dance and a Flamenco concert as a final event on 28. November. Begins on Friday, 5. November. Vingtième Théâtre,7. Rue des Plâtrières, Paris 20. Métro: Ménilmontant. Info. Tel.: 01 43 66 01 13.

Issy's Saison Artistique - is outlined in a thick brochure, which lists events in the nearby Paris suburb of Issy-les-Moulineaux from now until May 2000. Handy, there is one event per page and these pages can be torn out and posted at eye-level as a reminder. But the brochure is also a reminder of the vast richness of the cultural scene outside of Paris - which shows the impossibility of detailing every event in a column like this one.

Paris-Banlieues-Tango - Last year about this time Norman Barth send me an email, asking if I knew about Paris' Tango Festival and the Tango's 100th anniversary. He wondered whether anybody would be interested in it.

This year must be Tango's 101th anniversary and I have no information about it except for a program, which is three pages long, crammed full of tiny text. Fortunately the Paris-Banlieues-Tango has a Web site - and its program should be up and running. For information, write to the FAMA or call Info. Tel.: 01 48 87 74 23. The 60 days of Tango continue until Sunday, 5. December. The Fondation Argentine at the Cité Universitaire is also behind this.

Other New Stuff:

Hommage à Bernard Anthonioz - editor and contemporary of André Malraux, Bernard Anthonioz touched nearly everything classified as art today. This exhibition shows works of artists he supported, from Picasso and Braque, to Cueco and Viallat. Until Sunday, 2. January, at the Couvent des Cordeliers, 15. Rue de l'Ecole de Médecine, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon or Cluny-La Sorbonne. Open Tuesday at Sunday, from 11:00 to 19:00. Info. Tel.: 01 43 29 39 64.

La Femme, Mode d'Emploi - 'Balzac - Superstar' is a phrase making the rounds at the moment, due in part to waves he made 170 years ago with the publication of 'Méditation de Philosophie Electique Sur le Bonheur et Malheur Conjugal' - or, 'Physiologie du Mariage' for short; it was intended as a 'Guide for Bachelors.'

Balzac had 'scientific' aid, provided by the experiences of two of his mistresses, to lend authenticity and authority to the work, and even provided interesting 'statistics,' worthy of later work by Masters and Johnson. Contemporary cartoons by Monnier, Gavarni and Daumier round out the picture. This exhibition continues until Tuesday, 4. January.

At the 'Maison de Balzac.' Open daily except Monday, from 10:00 to 17:40. Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette or Passy. Info. Tel.: 01 42 24 56 38.

Musée d'Art et d'Historie du Judaïsme - has two shows: the first is entitled 'Regards - Sur la Vie Juive au Maroc' and the second, in the 'Chambre du Duc,' will present the works of Jean-Pierre Bertrand with the title 'Ethrog, 1999.' Both exhibitions continue until Sunday, 2. January 2000.

The museum is open from Monday to Friday, from 11:00 to 18:00 and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. Info Tel.: 01 53 01 86 53 and Fax.: 33 1 42 72 97 47. Since it is a new museum, there is also an Internet address you can write to for information. Musée d'Art et d'Historie du Judaïsme, in the Hôtel de Saint-Aignan. This is 'in' the Marais, at 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau.

Current Big Exhibitions:

Brésil Baroque - Between Earth and Sky - 500 years ago next 22. April, Alvarès Cabrai found an unknown land, which is known as Brazil today. Apparently unlike Peru or Mexico, Brazil was a blank slate, to be filled in by Indians, Africans and Europeans. The resulting art is little known in Europe and this exhibition will change our 'blank slate' view of it.

This exhibition continues until 6. February. Next spring, 30 centuries of Mexican art will take over, also in the Petit Palais, Avenue du Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. Except Monday, open from 10:00 to 17:40; to 20:00 on Thursdays. Catalogue available. Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

Portrait of Mexico - as part of the '2000 in Paris' salute to the new world of the Americas, a film history of Mexico is a current attraction at the Forum des Images-Vidéothèque. This is in the Forum des Halles, by the Porte Saint-Eustache entry, Paris 1. Info. Tel.: 01 44 76 62 00.

La Mort n'en Saura Rien - is an exhibition of 74 pieces or sets depicting how man faces death, from two widely separated civilizations; Europe and the islands ofbrochure: musee afrique oceanie the oceans - selected for their aesthetic qualities from public and private collections. This exhibition continues until 24. January 2000. Two other single-artist exhibitions begin on Friday, 29. October; featuring the Moroccan artist Farid Belkahia and the little-known Clovis Trouville. These continue until Monday, 3. January.

At the Musée National des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, 293. Avenue Daumesnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée and bus 46. Open daily except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 17:30. Entry fee for the temporary exhibitions includes access to the permanent collection of art from Africa and the islands of the oceans. Info. Tel.: 01 43 46 51 61.

Napoléon's Eye - was Dominique Vivant Denon's nickname, and he has a huge portrait on the 'Denon' wing of the Louvre to prove it. Denon had his finger in every intellectual pot in his time, and ended up being the Louvre's first director, which kind of makes him the grandfather of all big museum directors. This exhibition contains his private collections and his public ones, as Napoléon's servant. At the Louvre, every day except Tuesday, from 9:00 to 17:45; with late evening to 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. Paris 1. Métro: Palais Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

Here Come Les Fauves - for 30 years nobody has paid much attention to these wild men of color, who crashed in the public's consciousness in 1905 with their flaming palettes. No 'isms' here; just full-tilt color. Big names by the metre, lots of color; a perfect winter show. From 10:00 to 17:30 daily except Mondays; until 27. February 2000, at the Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, 11. Avenue du Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau Info. Tel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Les Champs de la Sculpture 2000 - this open-air sculpture show was mounted for the first time in 1996 and this year's new edition gets the '2000' label too. Of the 52 pieces to on view, most have never been shown in France before. One reason for this is that about half of the works have been executed especially for this free exhibition.

The artists represent five continents and 25 of the pieces I saw on my visit were dated 1999. In addition, only the works of living artists are on show -with works dating from 1960 to the '90's.

On the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, from the Rond-Point to the Place de la Concorde, Paris 8. Métros: Franklin Roosevelt, Champs-Elysées Clemenceau and Concorde. Continues until Sunday, 14. November.

Théo Van Gogh, Dealer, Collector - and brother of Vincent Van Gogh, put all his resources into his family, his collection and to promoting the 'unsalable' production of his brother. Théo followed all the 'isms' of the day and this varied show reflects many of them, from Camille Corot to Camille Pissarro - as well as his brother, Vincent. Until Sunday, 9. January. Except Monday, daily from 10:00 to 18:00; Sundays from 9:00 to 18:00. Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion-d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER 'C' Musée d'Orsay. Info. Tel.: 01 40 49 48 84.

Chardin's Still Lifes - are called 'Natures Mortes' in French, which sort of means 'dead nature' which is not what is meant at all. Jean Siméon Chardin didn't finish paintings until they were finished in his eyes - which he kept open for 80 years until his death in 1779.

In pre-photographic times, interior light was also inferior, so Chardin's production of 200 exquisitely detailed still lifes is something of a record. For this major exhibition, 95 of them are on display at the Grand Palais until Monday, 22. November. Except Tuesdays, daily from 10:00 to 20:00 and on Wednesdays until 22:00. Reservations are required for morning visits. At the Square Jean-Perrin, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 47.

India Ink - is behind an exhibition titled 'Le Parfum de l'Encre, Peintures Chinoises de la Collection Roy et Marilyn Papp.' I have used a lot of india ink, but I think what this exhibition of 53 works will show is Chinese artists from the Ming Period -1349-1644 - and the Qing Period - 1644-1911 - were absolute masters of it. This exhibition continues until Thursday, 30. December. To be at the Musée Cernuschi, 7. Avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers or Monceau. Info. Tel.: 01 45 63 50 75.

Jean Béraud et le Paris de la Belle Epoque - While the impressionists were all the rage a century ago, Jean Béaud recorded in paint the streets and byways of the City of Light, capturing the charm and the spirit of it. This exhibition presents 60 representative works and it continues until 2. February 2000, at the Musée Carnavalet, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

'Pas Si Bêtes! 1000 Cerveaux, 1000 Mondes' - Paris' Grande Galerie de l'Evolution du Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle has an exhibition about the possible interactivity between brains. I don't have any info about this other than the address of the Web version, which will be online until 10. July 2000. The museum is in the Jardin des Plantes, with its entry at 36. Rue Geoffrey Saint-Hillaire, Paris 5. Métro: Place Monge is closest.

Ulysses's Europe - was also known as the Bronze Age, which lasted from 2000 to 750 BC. Archaeologists have found that people travelled from Scandinavia to the Aegean and the near-east. Thisposter: le bon roi dagobert? coming exhibition presents 200 pieces from the time. This exhibition continues until 10. January 2000. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 47 47.

Le Jardin Planétaire - is a huge exhibition about plants and people, about earth, vegetation, animals and climate; about what we know and about what we should do to keep the world fit for habitation as we pass into the third millennium. This veggie workshop takes up 8500 square metres of the Grand Halle at La Villette. It continues until 23. January 2000. From 10:00 to 18:00 Tuesdays to Fridays; from 11:00 to 19:00 on weekends. Grand Halle, La Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurés, Paris 19. Advance reservation tickets available at fnac, Bon Marché and Carrefour. Métro: Porte de Pantin.

Jean Moulin, 1899-1943 - This is a special exhibition, on the occasion of the anniversary of Jean Moulin's birth. At the Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris et Musée Jean Moulin, Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Until Sunday, 2. January 2000, daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. Catalogue available, 80 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 40 64 39 44.


ArtWorks

Hommage à Moustapha Dimé - the sculptor lived on the island of Gorée, out in the Atlantic off the coast of Dakar. Dimé, who died in 1998, was picking up prizes for his sculptures at Johannesburg and at the Biannual of Venice. Exhibition at the Hôtel de Ville's Salle Saint-Jean, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. The hours are from 11:00 to 19:00 daily except Mondays. Until next Sunday, 14. November.

1 Monde Réel - the Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain was created in 1984 and since 1994 has been in its present location. The current exhibition asks itself the question about 'the dialectical relations and infinite riches between imaginary and act, known and unknown territories, present and dream, experience of the real and fiction.' In other words, this is a science fiction show because its objects were created by artists instead of engineers.

Until next Sunday, 14. November. Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain, 261. Boulevard Raspail, Paris 14. Métro: Raspail or Denfert-Rochereau. Except Mondays, open daily from 12:00 to 20:00. Info. Tel.: 01 42 18 56 51.

Turner et la Seine - Turner turned his eye to the Seine often between 1802 and 1832, with a systematic exploration beginning in 1820. 150 resulting watercolors are on show until the end of January at the Pavillon des Arts, Les Halles, Porte Rambuteau, Terrace Lautréamont, Paris 1. Except Mondays and holidays, open daily from 11:00 to 18:30. Info. Tel.: 01 42 33 82 50.

Patchwork, Quilts and Textiles - 50 of the best contemporary Frenchposter: art spirite, halle st pierre works have been chosen for this exhibition, which will later go on tour in Germany and the United States. See these modern - modern art - needle-and-thread works, until Saturday, 20. November. At the Bibliothèque Forney, 1. Rue de Figuier, Paris 4. Métro: Pont Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 42 78 14 60.

Messages from the Other-World - in French: 'Art Spirite' aka 'Mediumnique, Visionnaire, Messages d'Outre-Monde.' Part of this show is from Lausanne's collection 'Art Brut;' some of the 30 artists represented are William Blake, Marguerite Burnat-Provins, Minnie Evans, Madge Gill, Heinrich Nüsslein, Laure Pigeon and Victorien Sardou. Until 27. February, 2000. At the Halle Saint-Pierre, 2. Rue Ronsard, Paris 18. Métro: Anvers. Info. Tel.: 01 42 58 72 89.

PhotoWorks

Une Capitale Poëtique, 1850 - 1914 - is mainly a photographic exhibition. The works of Charles Marville fill in the second half of the 19th century and Eugène Atget's works begin in our century, now about to end with a blaze of blitz lights on the Tour Eiffel.

The photos are organized thematically around the poets Nerval, Baudelaire, Rimbaud and Appollinaire. At the Bibliothèque Historique de Paris until Thursday, 7. October. Then it runs at the Bibliothèque Buffon until next Wednesday, 10. November. Bibliothèque Historique de Paris, 22. Rue Mahler, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 44 59 29 60.

La Fondation Pour la Photographie - is at the Galerie Baudoin Lebon in the 4th arrondissement. Besides their own show, they have programs from the Centre National de la Photographie up on the Rue Berryer in the 8th, and a publication called 'L'Australie En France,' which is currently interesting because of John Kelly's 'Cow Up a Tree' which is part of the 'Champs de la Sculpture.'

Catherine Gfeller, Yoshiko Murakami - are the featured photographers at the Galerie Baudoin Lebon, in a dualposter: les contes drolatiques, balzac exhibition sponsored by the CCF's La Fondation Pour la Photographie. This exhibition is open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 11:00 to 13:00 and from 14:30 to 19:00. It continues until next Saturday, 13. November. Find the gallery at 38. Rue Sainte-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, Paris 4.

Atget & Abbott - is two exhibitions. One is Berenice Abbott's 'Changing New York, 1935 - 1939' which was organized by the New York City Museum and the other is 'Itnéraires Parisiens' by Eugène Atget - with the invitation illustration featuring triangle buildings in New York and Paris. This exhibition continues until Sunday, 16. January. Except Mondays and holidays, daily from 10:00 to 17:40. Musée Carnavalet - Histoire de Paris, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

Paris Match's 'Eye' - belonged to Roger Thérond while he picked photos for France's famous illustrated weekly for 50 years. From his vast private and personal collection, 240 views have been selected, divided into 15 themes - including rare views from the first days of photography, which I have just learned began in 1824. These are on show until Sunday, 9. January, at the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

Catacombs Photo Show - where else but at the Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. Open from Tuesday to Friday, from 14:00 to 18:00; and on weekends from 9:00 to 11:00 and from 14:00 to 16:00. On view until 14. February 2000, no less. I see the lineups for this every day except Mondays.

Mois de la Photo - The 11th - or the 20th! - Anniversary of the bi-annual 'Mois de la Photo,' calls for a more ambitious program than usual. However, the 'Month of the Photo,' starts in November, 2000 - while I have been under the impression it is an annual affair, which will run from this November through to the next. In the interval, check out the Maison Européenne de la Photo, 5-7. rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 75 07.

The Ville de Paris' 'Mois de la Photo' program - beginning in November 2000 - will feature 'Paris viewed through the eyes of foreign photographers,' which will be staged in foreign cultural centres. The Musée Carnavalet-Histoire de Paris will present a photo exhibition of Paris in 3-D. A 'Paris Photo Fair' will be held in the Carousel du Louvre, with selections from French and foreign galleries. Finally, 30 of the 'world's best' and 200 of the 'world's less-than-best' photographers will spend two days trying to figure out the 'future of photography' in the coming millennium.

Historical Themes:

Le Coup d'Etat du 18 Brumaire, An VIII - is a exhibition-dossier of the original text of a proclamation by the General-in-Chief Bonaparte, issued at 11 o'clock in the evening of 10. November 1799.

On view, except Tuesdays, from Monday to Friday, 12:00 to 17:45; on Saturday and Sunday, from 13:45 to 17:45; until Friday, 31. December. Centre Historique des Archives Nationales, Musée d'Historie de France, Hôtel de Soubise, 60. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3. Info. Tel.: 01 40 27 62 18. And at the Musée Municipal de Saint-Cloud, 60. Rue Gounod, Saint-Cloud. Info. Tel.: 01 46 02 67 18.

Hadrian's 'Hôtel' - was actually a villa, because he was a Roman; one known to prefer walls to towers. His Villa Adriana, rediscovered at the end of the 18th century, has yielded treasures which are now on display at the Mairie of the 5th; assembled as a set for thebrochure: fest d'art sacre 99 first time. On view until Sunday, 19. December; from 11:00 to 17:45 during the week and from 14:00 to 17:45 on Sundays. Mairie of the 5th, 21. Place de la Panthéon, Paris 5.

The Musée de la Poupée - this small museum is showing Bécassine, Bluette and the dolls that were featured in the 'Semaine de Suzette,' a weekly magazine for girls that was published from 1905 to 1960. These will be shown along with dolls made under the 'Corolle' name. Musée de la Poupée, Impasse Berthaud, Paris 3. In a dead-end opposite the métro exit at Rambuteau. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Jean-Sans-Peur's Tower Reopens - at 20. Rue Etienne Marcel, Paris 2. Métro: Etienne Marcel. Info. Tel.: 01 42 61 55 02.

Montparnasse In November

The Scandinavians - have followed the Russians into the 'Le Chemin du Montparnasse,' formerly the Musée du Montparnasse. Its location and vocation are unchanged. The exhibition which has just begun is named 'Les Vikings à Montparnasse.'

These Norsemen preceded the Russians to Paris, by settling in Montparnasse around 1905; mainly to attend the various academies in the area - those of Fernand Léger, Henri Matisse, André Lhote and Bissière. They were into every 'ism' going on at the time.

See the works of Allan Osterlind, Issac Grünewald, sculpture by Astrid Noack, abstraction by Erik Olson, and the works of Greta Knutson, who was the wife of Tristan Tzara. In collaboration, many of these joined Léger, Foujita, Cendars, Nils de Dardel and Per Krohg in assisting Rolf de Maré to mount the popular avant-garde 'Ballets Suédois' at the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées; a unique enterprise which continued for five years in the '20's.

Also see, in the contemporary gallery, the works of Karin Lewin, who has rendered the artist's 'tools of the trade.' Bothbrochure: guitars 99 exhibitions continue until Sunday, 9. January. Le Chemin du Montparnasse, 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. Open from Wednesday to Sunday; from 13:00 to 19:00.

Animal - Antoine Bourdelle liked animals when he was a little kid and he made little models of them. The grown-up Bourdelle did even more with animals and this is the subject of the current exhibition - which also has works by 120 other artists - at the Musée Bourdelle, 16. Rue Antoine Bourdelle, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. Except Monday, open from 10:00 to 17:40 daily. Continues until 16. January 2000. Info. Tel.: 01 49 54 73 73.

Jérôme Boutterin - until I see the work of this painter I won't know what it is; nor do I know anything about this 'Espace' in the Rue du Montparnasse. Until Tuesday, 30. November. From Monday to Saturday, from 14:00 to 20:00. Espace d'Art Contemporain, 55. Rue du Montparnasse, Paris 14. Métro: Montparnasse or Edgar Quinet. Info. Tel.: 01 42 76 66 77.

Cinéma, Dance and Théâtre

Les Bâtisseurs d'Empire - or 'Le Schmüz' is by Boris Vian, who was a postwar man of all arts. This particular play is directed by Daniél Lacroix and it can be seen until Sunday, 28. November at the Théâtre de l'Epouvantail, 6. Rue de la Folie Méricourt, Paris 11. Métro: Saint-Amboise. Info. Tel.: 01 43 55 14 80.

Cabaret Tango - is outside the official program of Tango madness, but features it all the same every Wednesday at 20:30 to 00:30. Bring your red shoes! Java do Brasil - is a do-it-yourself affair every Thursday night, starting at 23:00 and continues until dawn. Both at La Java, 105. Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, Paris 10. Métro: Belleville. Info. Tel.: 01 42 02 20 52.

Théâtre Châtelet Reopens - completely renovated, this large theatre belonging to the city has programmed 210 performances and has 276,297 seats for sale for the 1999-2000 season. Two pieces by Gluck start off Châtelet's new life, with music by John Eliot Gardiner and direction by Robert Wilson. Info. Tel.: 01 40 28 28 00.

Palais des Congrés - The newly reopened Palais des Congrés is hosting a super-show known locally as 'De Gaulle, Celui Qui a Dit Non' in a production that lasts two hours and fifteen minutes and has been promoted around Paris for the past six months.

From Tuesday to Saturday, at 20:30; also at 15:30 on Saturdays and Sundays. At the Palais des Congrés, Paris 16. Métro: Porte Maillot. Info. Tel.: 01 40 68 00 35.

Iles des Danses - is one of these jumbo festivals for which the Ile-de-France is famous. It will feature 104 performances of dance, in 43 cities, towns and villages throughout the region surrounding Paris, from Tuesday, 9. November until Sunday, 19. December. Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 06 58.

L'Art d'Etre Spectateur - is a multi-season program, continuing until next June, put on by the Théâtre de la Cité Internationale. This is at 21. Boulevard Jourdan, Paris 14. Near RER 'B' station Cité Universitaire. Info. Tel.: 01 43 13 50 50.

La Fausse Suivante - appears to be a piece of theatre which is currently playing at the place where pieces of money are made. It is by Marivaux, and directed by Michel Verschaere. Thursdays and Saturdays at 20:30; and Fridays and Sundays at 18:00. Until Sunday, 19. December. At the Théâtre à la Monnaie de Paris, 11. Quai de Conti, Paris 6. Métro: Pont-Neuf or Odéon. Info. Tel/Fax.: 01 39 55 10 62.

Les Trois Mousquetaires - based on the novel by Alexandre Dumas, comes riding into the Théâtre du Rond-Point with a big supporting cast and will stay there until Friday, 31. December. A piece by Marguerite Duras named 'Savannah Bay' is at the same theatre and it continues until Sunday, 19. December. Théâtre du Rond-Point, 2 bis, Avenue Franklin-Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: Franklin-Roosevelt. Info. Tel.: 01 44 95 98 10.

Les Nouvelles Brèves de Comptoir - are witty or pithy sayings collected in cafés, bars and bistros by Jean-Marie Gourio, who has been eavesdropping since 1987. This new collection covers the period from 1994 until now; and they have been gathered together by director Jean-Michel Ribes for presentation in the Théâtre Fontaine, 10. Rue Fontaine, Paris 9. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 74 40.

Salut les Artistes! - announces the Chaillot 1999/2000 season - its 80th. Details from this program may follow in this column, but if you want to be up-to-date right now give the Web site of the Théâtre National de Chaillot a hit or call the Info. Tel.: 01 53 65 30 00.

'Le Tartuffe' - is by Molière, and is the only French play I've seen 2/3rds of. This representation is directed by Jean-Marie Villégier and it is playing in the Grand Salle of the Athénée Théâtre Louis-Jouvet, which is in the square of the same name - or at 7. Rue Boudreau, Paris 9. Métro: Harve Caumartin. Tuesday at 19:00, Wednesday to Saturday at 20:00 and Sunday at 16:00. Info. Tel.: 01 53 05 19 19.

Les Yeux Dans la Bière - has been loosely inspired by songs by Jacques Brel, and this piece has been put together by the Bla-Bla Theatre Company, featuring Raba. These names are not made up. The show is in Fridays and Saturdays at 19:00. Théâtre des Déchargeurs, 3. Rue des Déchargeurs, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet. Info. Tel.: 01 42 36 00 02.

Bonheur Parfait - is not, of course, about perfect happiness because it involves a fireman about to retire and his sister, Grenouille, who quotes Racine; while Clementine has a torrid love affair with Raphaël, who died ten years earlier. In short, it is about how to live as a threesome when there are four. Françoise Dorner directed and also plays, with Cerise and Frank Olivier Bonnet. At the Théâtre Pépiniére Opéra, 7. Rue Louis Le Grand, Paris 2. Info. Tel;: 01 42 61 44 16.

The Cinémathèque Française - is France's movie museum and it has a non-stop program of rare film projections. The museum operates in two locations: at the Palais de Chaillot, garden entry; and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Auto-Info Tel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

Sporty Paris

Rent-a-Bike - details about the RATP's 'Roue Libre' and other bike rental possibilities are included in a previous 'Scene' column.

Guide du Sport - is a booklet published by the Ville de Paris. Including its index, a compact 287 pages about sporty activities possible in Paris, which may contradict your impression that everybody is either eating or holding up the bars in cafés. This free guide is available in any of Paris' 21 city halls until stocks are exhausted.

Internet In Paris

Cyberposte - La Poste has 1000 post offices throughout France outfitted with Apple's iMacs and they are connected to the Internet, possibly making La Poste the world biggest cybercafé without café. All you do is buy a rechargeable Cyberposte cardposter l'amant anglais, thr l'oeuvre for 50 francs, which is good for one hour of network time. A recharge of the card only costs 30 francs and it can be recharged as often as you want. You can also get a personal email account.

2000 In Paris - Metropole has two 'Scene' columns. This one contains actual and coming events, and the occasional '2000 In Paris' column features events - up to next summer - related to Paris' 'millennium party' - and includes some details concerning the coming New Years Eve.

Some of the above items have been carried over for many issues of this magazine. If you require more information - such as addresses or phone numbers - check 'All Past Issues' either from here, or from the top or bottom of any page in the magazine.

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