Events Become Surreal

photo: pont neuf & samaritaine, night

The Pont Neuf and Samaritaine by the
evening's early light.

Not Many 'One-Nighters'

Paris:- Saturday, 6. November 1999:- There is so much stuff in this column that I am adding nothing here. Take it or leave it, but catch Geraldo's one night stand today:

Geraldo Azevedo - does a one evening performance from the heart of northeastphoto: geraldo azevedo Brazil; at the Bataclan, today, on Monday, 8. November, at 20:00. The Bataclan, 50. Boulevard Voltaire, Paris 11. Métro: Oberkampf. Info. Tel.: 01 43 14 35 35.

Robert Desnos - was a popular pioneer surrealist. All surrealism was pioneering, but not all of it was 'popular.' Desnos is having homage paid to him apparently at the bookshop of the Paris' Bibliothéque Historique, which is a few doors away from the Bibliothéque Historique itself, in the Rue Pavée. Exhibition at 22. Rue Malher, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 44 59 29 60.

La Maison Fournaise - is a 19th century guinguette, on an island in the Seine near Chatou. The nearby Grenouille, a floating café at Croissy, was too animated with boaters and bathers for Renoir, so he immortalized La Maison Fournaise with his 'Le Déjeuner des Canotiers.' The canoe fans came every weekend, and they still do because of the adjacent boatworks. Guy de Maupassant was another guest of the riverside café, and he included it in his 'La Femme de Paul, Mouche, Yvette.'

From Thursday, 18. November until 2. April 2000, La Maison Fournaise presents its history and its former guests. On the Ile des Impressionistes, in Chatou. Take 'RER' line 'A' to Rueil-Malmaison or Chatou-Croissy. Open from Thursday to Sunday, from 11:00 to 17:00. Info. Tel.: 01 34 80 63 22.

Rivages - is an exhibition featuring 200 watercolors depicting the sights and treasures to be found at the water's edge, from the Côte d'Opale on the Riviera to the bay of Mont Saint-Michel or the calanques near Cassis. Part of this expo comes from the Museum of Natural History and also has an aquarium, plus sails rippling in the wind. At the Espace Electra, 6. Rue Récamier, Paris 7. Open daily except Monday, from 12:00 to 19:00. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone. Info. Tel.: 01 53 63 23 45.

Le Bon Roi Dagobert? - is staged by the Campagnie Patchwork; as a musical fantasy for kids from four to nine. As odd as it may sound, Dagobert was a French king and when he started out, he was not 'bon' at all. At the Théâtre de l'Espace Jemmapes, 116. Quai de Jemmapes, Paris 10. Métro: Gare de l'Est or Jacques Bonsergent. Continues until Sunday, 28. November. On Wednesdays and school holidays at 14:30; on Saturdays and Sundays at 15:00. Tickets: fnac, Carrefour, France Billet, or Info. Tel.: 01 48 03 11 99.

L'Amant Anglaise - by Marguerite Duras, is directed by Patrice Kerbrat and features Suzanne Plon, Jean-Paum Roussillon and Hubert Godon. There is a crime, an innocent, a guilty party and an incomprehensible act. Which is which? At the Théâtre de l'Oeuvre, 55. Rue de Clichy, Paris 9. Tuesday to Friday at 21:00, Saturday at 19:00 and 21:30 and Sunday at 15:30. Info. Tel.: 01 44 53 88 88.

Eve Anderson - is a play written by Michelle Robert Reich and directed by Hugo Ezan, featuring Irma Schmitt et Estelle Grynszpan who play opposing roles at the end of WWII. The theatre is unusual because it only has 30 seats; reservations are suggested. Fridays and Saturdays at 20:30 and 17:00 on Sundays. Until Sunday, 28. November, at the Théâtre Pandora, 30. Rue Keller, Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. Info. Tel.: 01 42 74 05 93.

Les Contes Drolatiques - is a piece by current superstar, Balzac, and this is one of his sexy works not taught in schools. Playing daily except Sundays, at 21:30 in the Théâtre Rouge, presented by the Théâtre Lucernaire, 53. Rue de Notre-Dame-des-Champs, Paris 6. Info. Tel.: 01 45 44 57 34.

Le Son des Guitares 99 - is a mini-festival featuring guitar players - such as Gwyn Ashton, Claude Barthélémy, Juan Carmona, Saïd Chraili and Ras Smaila - for upright guitar fans. Lessons and guitar tuning are on the program too. On Friday and Saturday, 19. and 20. November, in the Espace Lino Ventura, Place de l'Appel du 18 Juin 1940, in Torcy. Take the RER 'A' line to Chessy, but get off at Torcy and then take the bus 220 or 421. Info. Tel.: 01 60 37 37 60.

Mose - exhibits his cartoons, both new and originals of ones that have been published by the Paris press. While his latest stuff is more elaborate - paint, canvas - he cannot help putting in a 'gag.' Fine and good, but this gallery exhibition is also to sell his original cartoons - which still bear signs of the art directors' markups. If you care to meet Mose in person, he will be at the gallery on Tuesday, at about 15:00.

See his 'Images Imaginaires' until Friday, 12. November, at the Atelier André-Girard, 7. Rue Campagne-Première, Paris 14. Métro: Vavin or Raspail. From Tuesday to Friday, from 12:30 to 18:30.

Mirza Moric - has been quietly sitting under a canvas marquee in the Square René Viviani since Thursday, 9. September, watchingphoto: moric sculpture over a garden of his fantastic sculptures that nobody bothered to tell me about. The open-air expo is called 'Le Labyrinthe Sculptural.' If you tire of waiting for the scaffolding in front of Notre-Dame to come down, cross the Pont au Double to the left bank and enter the little park, which is also home to Paris' oldest or second-oldest tree.

With Mirza Moric, try to imagine Thai temple figures that have gone wild - rounder, exaggerated - but no less complex, which are strewn around this little square. While the 'modern' stuff at 'Les Champs de la Sculpture 2000' may leave you baffled, not so here. The exhibition continues until Sunday, 12. December. Paris 5. Métro: Saint-Michel or Cité. No phone.

Destins des Femmes - Colette as the symbol of women's destiny, is the subject of this exhibition of homage to Colette and all women who have this their mark on this century about to end. Open daily, from 10:00 to 19:00; until Sunday, 16. January. At the top of the Grande Arche at La Défense. Métro and RER: La Défense. Info. Tel.: 01 49 07 27 57.

Chatou's 42nd Salon des Beaux-Arts - this year also features honored painters from each of the past ten years, plus a hundred other contemporary artists. This year's honored artist is Pierre Rannaud, who has done the painting on the cover of the exhibition's brochure. From Saturday, 13. November until Sunday, 28. November. Open daily from 15:00 to 19:00; and on Saturdays and Sundays from 10:30 to 13:00 and from 14:30 to 19:00. At the Centre Artistique Jacques Catinat, 3. Place Maurice Berteaux. In Chatou. Take RER line 'A' to Chatou. Info. Tel.: 01 30 53 32 05.

8th Festival de Théâtre Hispanique - is mainly Spanish, but also features artists from Argentina and Cuba, who fill this location with theatre, dance and a Flamenco concert as a final event on 28. November. Begins on Friday, 5. November. Vingtième Théâtre,7. Rue des Plâtrières, Paris 20. Métro: Ménilmontant. Info. Tel.: 01 43 66 01 13.

Issy's Saison Artistique - is outlined in a thick brochure, which lists events in the nearby Paris suburb of Issy-les-Moulineaux from now until May 2000. Handy, there is one event per page and these pages can be torn out and posted at eye-level as a reminder. But the brochure is also a reminder of the vast richness of the cultural scene outside of Paris - which shows the impossibility of detailing every event in a column like this one.

Paris-Banlieues-Tango - Last year about this time Norman Barth send me an email, asking if I knew about Paris' Tango Festival and the Tango's 100th anniversary. He wondered whether anybody would be interested in it.

This year must be Tango's 101th anniversary and I have no information about it except for a program, which is three pages long, crammed full of tiny text. Fortunately the Paris-Banlieues-Tango has a Web site - and its program should be up and running. For information, write to the FAMA or call Info. Tel.: 01 48 87 74 23. The 60 days of Tango continue until Sunday, 5. December. The Fondation Argentine at the Cité Universitaire is also behind this.

Other New Stuff:

Hommage à Bernard Anthonioz - editor and contemporary of André Malraux, Bernard Anthonioz touched nearly everything classified as art today. This exhibition shows works of artists he supported, from Picasso and Braque, to Cueco and Viallat. Until Sunday, 2. January, at the Couvent des Cordeliers, 15. Rue de l'Ecole de Médecine, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon or Cluny-La Sorbonne. Open Tuesday at Sunday, from 11:00 to 19:00. Info. Tel.: 01 43 29 39 64.

La Femme, Mode d'Emploi - 'Balzac - Superstar' is a phrase making the rounds at the moment, due in part to waves he made 170 years ago with the publication of 'Méditation de Philosophie Electique Sur le Bonheur et Malheur Conjugal' - or, 'Physiologie du Mariage' for short; it was intended as a 'Guide for Bachelors.'

Balzac had 'scientific' aid, provided by the experiences of two of his mistresses, to lend authenticity and authority to the work, and even provided interesting 'statistics,' worthy of later work by Masters and Johnson. Contemporary cartoons by Monnier, Gavarni and Daumier round out the picture. This exhibition continues until Tuesday, 4. January.

At the 'Maison de Balzac.' Open daily except Monday, from 10:00 to 17:40. Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette or Passy. Info. Tel.: 01 42 24 56 38.

Musée d'Art et d'Historie du Judaïsme - has two shows: the first is entitled 'Regards - Sur la Vie Juive au Maroc' and the second, in the 'Chambre du Duc,' will present the works of Jean-Pierre Bertrand with the title 'Ethrog, 1999.' Both exhibitions continue until Sunday, 2. January 2000.

The museum is open from Monday to Friday, from 11:00 to 18:00 and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. Info Tel.: 01 53 01 86 53 and Fax.: 33 1 42 72 97 47. Since it is a new museum, there is also an Internet address you can write to for information. Musée d'Art et d'Historie du Judaïsme, in the Hôtel de Saint-Aignan. This is 'in' the Marais, at 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau.

Current Big Exhibitions:

Brésil Baroque - Between Earth and Sky - 500 years ago next 22. April, Alvarès Cabrai found an unknown land, which is known as Brazil today. Apparently unlike Peru or Mexico, Brazil was a blank slate, to be filled in by Indians, Africans and Europeans. The resulting art is little known in Europe and this exhibition will change our 'blank slate' view of it.

This exhibition continues until 6. February. Next spring, 30 centuries of Mexican art will take over, also in the Petit Palais, Avenue du Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. Except Monday, open from 10:00 to 17:40; to 20:00 on Thursdays. Catalogue available. Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

Portrait of Mexico - as part of the '2000 in Paris' salute to the new world of the Americas, a film history of Mexico is a current attraction at the Forum des Images-Vidéothèque. This is in the Forum des Halles, by the Porte Saint-Eustache entry, Paris 1. Info. Tel.: 01 44 76 62 00.

La Mort n'en Saura Rien - is an exhibition of 74 pieces or sets depicting how man faces death, from two widely separated civilizations; Europe and the islands ofbrochure: musee afrique oceanie the oceans - selected for their aesthetic qualities from public and private collections. This exhibition continues until 24. January 2000. Two other single-artist exhibitions begin on Friday, 29. October; featuring the Moroccan artist Farid Belkahia and the little-known Clovis Trouville. These continue until Monday, 3. January.

At the Musée National des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, 293. Avenue Daumesnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée and bus 46. Open daily except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 17:30. Entry fee for the temporary exhibitions includes access to the permanent collection of art from Africa and the islands of the oceans. Info. Tel.: 01 43 46 51 61.

Napoléon's Eye - was Dominique Vivant Denon's nickname, and he has a huge portrait on the 'Denon' wing of the Louvre to prove it. Denon had his finger in every intellectual pot in his time, and ended up being the Louvre's first director, which kind of makes him the grandfather of all big museum directors. This exhibition contains his private collections and his public ones, as Napoléon's servant. At the Louvre, every day except Tuesday, from 9:00 to 17:45; with late evening to 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. Paris 1. Métro: Palais Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

Here Come Les Fauves - for 30 years nobody has paid much attention to these wild men of color, who crashed in the public's consciousness in 1905 with their flaming palettes. No 'isms' here; just full-tilt color. Big names by the metre, lots of color; a perfect winter show. From 10:00 to 17:30 daily except Mondays; until 27. February 2000, at the Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, 11. Avenue du Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau Info. Tel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Les Champs de la Sculpture 2000 - this open-air sculpture show was mounted for the first time in 1996 and this year's new edition gets the '2000' label too. Of the 52 pieces to on view, most have never been shown in France before. One reason for this is that about half of the works have been executed especially for this free exhibition.

The artists represent five continents and 25 of the pieces I saw on my visit were dated 1999. In addition, only the works of living artists are on show -with works dating from 1960 to the '90's.

On the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, from the Rond-Point to the Place de la Concorde, Paris 8. Métros: Franklin Roosevelt, Champs-Elysées Clemenceau and Concorde. Continues until Sunday, 14. November.

Théo Van Gogh, Dealer, Collector - and brother of Vincent Van Gogh, put all his resources into his family, his collection and to promoting the 'unsalable' production of his brother. Théo followed all the 'isms' of the day and this varied show reflects many of them, from Camille Corot to Camille Pissarro - as well as his brother, Vincent. Until Sunday, 9. January. Except Monday, daily from 10:00 to 18:00; Sundays from 9:00 to 18:00. Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion-d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER 'C' Musée d'Orsay. Info. Tel.: 01 40 49 48 84.

Chardin's Still Lifes - are called 'Natures Mortes' in French, which sort of means 'dead nature' which is not what is meant at all. Jean Siméon Chardin didn't finish paintings until they were finished in his eyes - which he kept open for 80 years until his death in 1779.

In pre-photographic times, interior light was also inferior, so Chardin's production of 200 exquisitely detailed still lifes is something of a record. For this major exhibition, 95 of them are on display at the Grand Palais until Monday, 22. November. Except Tuesdays, daily from 10:00 to 20:00 and on Wednesdays until 22:00. Reservations are required for morning visits. At the Square Jean-Perrin, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 47.

India Ink - is behind an exhibition titled 'Le Parfum de l'Encre, Peintures Chinoises de la Collection Roy et Marilyn Papp.' I have used a lot of india ink, but I think what this exhibition of 53 works will show is Chinese artists from the Ming Period -1349-1644 - and the Qing Period - 1644-1911 - were absolute masters of it. This exhibition continues until Thursday, 30. December. To be at the Musée Cernuschi, 7. Avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers or Monceau. Info. Tel.: 01 45 63 50 75.

Jean Béraud et le Paris de la Belle Epoque - While the impressionists were all the rage a century ago, Jean Béaud recorded in paint the streets and byways of the City of Light, capturing the charm and the spirit of it. This exhibition presents 60 representative works and it continues until 2. February 2000, at the Musée Carnavalet, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

'Pas Si Bêtes! 1000 Cerveaux, 1000 Mondes' - Paris' Grande Galerie de l'Evolution du Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle has an exhibition about the possible interactivity between brains. I don't have any info about this other than the address of the Web version, which will be online until 10. July 2000. The museum is in the Jardin des Plantes, with its entry at 36. Rue Geoffrey Saint-Hillaire, Paris 5. Métro: Place Monge is closest.

Ulysses's Europe - was also known as the Bronze Age, which lasted from 2000 to 750 BC. Archaeologists have found that people travelled from Scandinavia to the Aegean and the near-east. Thisposter: le bon roi dagobert? coming exhibition presents 200 pieces from the time. This exhibition continues until 10. January 2000. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 47 47.

Le Jardin Planétaire - is a huge exhibition about plants and people, about earth, vegetation, animals and climate; about what we know and about what we should do to keep the world fit for habitation as we pass into the third millennium. This veggie workshop takes up 8500 square metres of the Grand Halle at La Villette. It continues until 23. January 2000. From 10:00 to 18:00 Tuesdays to Fridays;from 11:00 to 19:00 on weekends. Grand Halle, La Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurés, Paris 19. Advance reservation tickets available at fnac, Bon Marché and Carrefour. Métro: Porte de Pantin.


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