The Ile-de-France

photo: paris big wheel

Here's our big wheel again, with all of its gondolas.

Is Bigger Than Paris

Paris:- Saturday, 11. December 1999:- Since moving out of the Ile-de-France and into Paris nearly six months ago, I have not given this huge area much thought.

I should, because more people live 'out there' than live 'in here.' While Paris has one visitor reception office - with several branches, the Ile-de-France has 130 information boutiques.

One of them is located in Paris at the Carrousel du Louvre, which is under one of the pyramids - and is directly accessible from the métro. Except Tuesdays, it is open daily from 10:00 to 19:00.

Since so many people seem to be visiting the east - aka - Disneyland! - the Ile-de-France has an office there too, in the Disney Village and it is open every day. There seems tophoto: la roue de paris sign be more cooperation between Paris and its 'crown' because the brochures I picked up last week are for 'Paris-Ile-de-France,' as if it is all one place. Check out the Web site, hotlinked above.

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'Scene' continues on its Page II, which features Paris Christmas 99 and Paris 2000 Events. Click on these below to go directly to them:

The items below are not necessarily 'new;' but they are new to this column.

Biographie: Un Jeu - is a theatre piece by Max Frisch, directed by Frédéric Belier-Garcia which is playing now and until Thursday, 23. December at the Théâtre de l'Aquarium Cartoucherie, located on the Route du Champ de Manoeuvre, Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes, plus there is a free shuttle-bus. Info. Tel.: 01 43 74 99 61.

Court-Circuit - is something I know nothing about but I have been strongly urged to check it out. Over two days, 200 creators on the eve of 2000 are having a combo expo-sale out at La Villette, at the Cité des Sciences, in the Espace Concordet. Address is 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. Call Sébastien at the Info. Tel.: 06 60 63 14 16. Oops - nearly forgot. Dates are next Saturday, 18. and Sunday, 19. December; from 10:00 yo 20:00. There's music too and the entry charge is only 20 francs.

La Question d'Argent - was written by Alexandre Dumas Fils and this version is directed by Régis Santon. This is some history about greed and loathing concerning the stock market, way back then. The bourgeois, the aristos, hiccups, and funny bits. On until 23. January, from Tuesday to Saturday, at 20:30; on Sundays at 16:00. Théâtre Silvia Monfort, 106. Rue Brancion, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Vanves. Info. Tel.: 00 45 31 10 96.

L'Envol du Pingouin - Jean-Jacques Vanier is a sailor navigating in an ocean of nonsense, which I think is another way of saying he makes a living by fast-talking sketches on stages. Tuesday to Saturday, at 20:30; on Sundays at 17:00. At L'Européen, 5. Rue Viot, Paris 17. Métro: Place de Clichy.Info. Tel.: 01 43 87 97 13.

Pardon Platon - is by Marc Monsallier and the piece is directed by Catherine Brieux. It may be a comedy, but in French this is a generic term that may have nothing to do with laughing. Judging from the poster, nobody plays a 'pingouin' in it. Until Sunday, 16. January. From Tuesday to Saturday, at 21:00; on Sundays at 17:30. I can't resist the name of the theatre: Théâtre 'Les Cinq Diamants,' 10. Rue des Cinq Diamants, Paris 13. Métro: Corvisart or Italie. Info. Tel.: 01 45 80 51 31.

This item closes new events for this week. Some posters accompanying this feature are decorative only; because I am not sure if the event is still current. Theatre runs, for example, often don't have 'until' dates.

François Morellet - moved into the Musée Zadkine on Friday, 10. December, for a stay until 5. March. See comment in this week's 'Café' column. I alreadyposter: f morellet, musee zadkine knew there will be neon. Except Mondays, open daily from 10:00 to 17:30. At 100 bis, Rue d'Assas; Paris 6. Go to the back of the garden and turn right. Métro: Note-Dame-des-Champs. Info. Tel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

Le Temple de l'Homme - some 60 works by Paul Landowski have been gathered from four continents for this major retrospective exhibition, to which I've been invited on Monday but will not make it to it. Landowski did the 'Christ Rédempteur' that overlooks Rio which will give you an idea of which league this one is in. In caps: 'major show.' Now on and continues until 5. March. Open from Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40, at the Petit Palais, Avenue Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

Rivages - is an exhibition featuring 200 watercolors depicting the sights and treasures to be found at the water's edge, from the Côte d'Opale on the Riviera to the bay of Mont Saint-Michel or the calanques near Cassis. Part of this expo comes from the Museum of Natural History and also has an aquarium, plus sails rippling in the wind. At the Espace Electra, 6. Rue Récamier, Paris 7. Open daily except Monday, from 12:00 to 19:00. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone. Info. Tel.: 01 53 63 23 45.

Robert Desnos - was a popular pioneer surrealist. All surrealism was pioneering, but not all of it was 'popular.' Desnos is having homage paid to him apparently at the bookshop of the Paris' Bibliothéque Historique, which is a few doors away from the Bibliothéque Historique itself, in the Rue Pavée. Exhibition at 22. Rue Malher, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 44 59 29 60.

Brésil Baroque - Between Earth and Sky - 500 years ago next 22. April, Alvarès Cabrai found an unknown land, which is known as Brazil today. Apparently unlike Peru or Mexico, Brazil was a blank slate, to be filled in by Indians, Africans and Europeans. The resulting art is little known in Europe and this exhibition will change our 'blank slate' view of it. Until 6. February. Next spring, 30 centuries of Mexican art will takeposter: pardon platon over, also in the Petit Palais, Avenue du Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. Except Monday, open from 10:00 to 17:40; to 20:00 on Thursdays. Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

Portrait of Mexico - as part of the '2000 in Paris' salute to the new world of the Americas, a film history of Mexico is a current attraction at the Forum des Images-Vidéothèque. This is in the Forum des Halles, by the Porte Saint-Eustache entry, Paris 1. Info. Tel.: 01 44 76 62 00.

Here Come Les Fauves - for 30 years nobody has paid much attention to these wild men of color, who crashed in the public's consciousness in 1905 with their flaming palettes. No 'isms' here; just full-tilt color. Big names by the metre, lots of color; a perfect winter show. From 10:00 to 17:30 daily except Mondays; until 27. February 2000, at the Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, 11. Avenue du Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau Info. Tel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

La Mort n'en Saura Rien - is an exhibition of 74 pieces or sets depicting how man faces death, from two widely separated civilizations; Europe and the islands of the oceans. This exhibition continues until 24. January 2000. Two other single-artist exhibitions feature the Moroccan artist Farid Belkahia and the little-known Clovis Trouville. These continue until Monday, 3. January. At the Musée National des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, 293. Avenue Daumesnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée and bus 46. Open daily except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 17:30. Info. Tel.: 01 43 46 51 61.

Théo Van Gogh, Dealer, Collector - and brother of Vincent Van Gogh, put all his resources into his family, his collection and to promoting the 'unsalable' production of his brother. Théo followed all the 'isms' of the day, from Camille Corot to Camille Pissarro - as well as his brother, Vincent. Until Sunday, 9. January. Except Monday, daily from 10:00 to 18:00; Sundays from 9:00 to 18:00. Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion-d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER 'C' Musée d'Orsay. Info. Tel.: 01 40 49 48 84.

Jean Béraud et le Paris de la Belle Epoque - While the impressionists were all the rage a century ago, Jean Béaud recorded in paint the streets and byways of the City of Light, capturing the charm and the spirit of it. This exhibition presents 60 representative works and it continues until 2. February 2000, at the Musée Carnavalet, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

Napoléon's Eye - was Dominique Vivant Denon's nickname. Denon ended up being the Louvre's first director, which kind of makes him the grandfather of all big museum directors. This exhibition contains his private collections and his public ones, as Napoléon's servant. At the Louvre, every day except Tuesday, from 9:00 to 17:45; with late evening to 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. Until Monday, 17. January. Paris 1. Métro: Palais Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

Destins des Femmes - Colette as the symbol of women's destiny, is the subject of this exhibition of homage to Colette and all women who have this their mark on this century about to end. Open daily, from 10:00 to 19:00; until Sunday, 16. January. At the top of the Grande Arche at La Défense. Métro and RER: La Défense. Info. Tel.: 01 49 07 27 57.


Paris Invented - nearly everything usual today in Paris. The Pont-Neuf was invented in 1606 for example. The first covered and heated swimming pool was opened on 8. July 1884, and somebody had to dream up the first cinema, which was done in 1907. See the history of all this until the end of March, at the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland. Info. Tel.: 01 42 76 33 97.

The Three Styles of Bouchard - here I am mentioning a sculptor whose work I've never seen and who died in 1960. The current exhibition shows about 30 of Henri Bouchard's works, executed between 1906 and 1914. Until 11. March; open from Wednesday to Saturday, from 14:00 to 19:00. At the Musée Bouchard, 25. Rue de l'Yvette, Paris 16. Métro: Jasmin. Info. Tel.: 01 46 47 63 46.

The Heights of Paris - 'are little known' according to the city's magazine 'Paris Le Journal,' which did not see Metropole's feature about the Parc de Belleville in Paris' 20th arrondissement. The Action Artistique de Paris has some sort of show about the 20th and its views, until Tuesday, 21. December. No name, just the address: 18. Boulevard Sérurier, Paris 19. Métro: Porte des Lilas. Info. Tel.: 01 43 25 30 30, which just may be one of the Archives de Paris locations.

Manga! - presents the works of 29 cartoonists, for the period 1980-1990. According to the blurb, the exhibition hall has been transformed into a vast 'manga.' Manga-style comics are something I have seen and I dislike intensely as a sort of Disney-style in Japanese. I'll go to see what a 'manga' hall is though. Must be quick; last day is Saturday, 18. December. Open Tuesday to Saturday, from 12:00 to 19:00. Entry: 30 francs. At the Maison de la Culture de Japon, 101 bis, Quai Branly, Paris 15. Métro: Bir-Hakeim.

Roni Horn - 'place' or 'geographic' art, is not about geography, but about an environment which is created to surround art, and is part of the art itself. An concurrent exhibition is titled 'L'Autre Sommeil' and it is supposed to be strange, fantastic - modern art, in short. Both until 30. January, at the Paris' Musée d'Art Modern, 11. Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Ièna or Alma-Marceau. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00; to 17:30 Tuesday to Friday and to 18:45 Saturday and Sunday. Info. Tel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Souvenirs Moscouvites 1860 - 1930 has been loaned to Paris by Moscow's history museum. The exhibition has 200 photos and some costumes; plus there is a wealth of other materialposter: l'question d'argent from closer sources, such as the Vassiliev collection. Paris-Moscow-Paris fashions are the highlights. Until Thursday, 13. January. Musée Galliera, Paris' Musée de la Mode, at 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Except Mondays, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. Info. Tel.: 01 55 74 41 80.

Jean-Marc Nattier - official portraitist to the family of Louis XV, has his first retrospective which features about 70 paintings and some drawings. Except Mondays, from 9:45 to 17:00 daily. Until Sunday, 30. January. Where else? At the Musée du Château de Versailles, in Versailles. You can't miss it. Take the SNCF train from Montparnasse or the RER line 'C.' Info. Tel.: 01 30 83 78 00.

L'art de la Terre Vernissée - From the middle ages to 2000; includes decorative fragments by Bernard Palissy from the grotto of the Château des Tuileries, which has not been with us since 1871. Until Monday, 10. January; from 10:00 to 17:00 daily except Tuesdays. There are a lot of other objects to see as well at the Musée de Céramique Sèvres, Place de la Manufacture - at the south end of the Pont de Sèvres. Métro: same name. Info. Tel.: 01 41 14 04 20.

Eugène de Beauharnais - or Honneur et Fidélité. Between the end of the 'Terror' and the fall of the Empire in 1814 Eugène de Beauharnais had an exciting life, and won every honor to be had. But did he do it on his own or was he helped by his uncle? Until Monday, 3. January; open daily except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 17:00. Musée du Château de Malmaison in Reuil-Malmaison. Méto or RER line 'A' to La Défense; then bus 258. Info. Tel.: 01 41 29 05 55.


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