Overwhelmed by Events?

photo: tour eiffel, 13 days

Here the old iron lady, showing 13 days left - tomorrow, when the photo was taken.

Stay Home and Watch TV!

Paris:- Saturday, 18. December 1999:- This week, overwhelmed, I have nothing to add to what is listed below. Once Christmas is out of the way, I hope to get this organized a bit better. Faint hope.

Navigation Note:-If you pop back and forth within this week's three 'Scene' pages, your browser's 'back' or 'return' button will not return you to the issue's 'contents' page. Use 'This Issue' in Metropole's navigation line at the top and bottom of these pages.


'Scene' continues on its Page II, which features Paris Christmas 1999 and on its Page III which has Paris 2000 Events. Click on these below to go directly to them:

The items below are not necessarily 'new;' but they are new to this column.

La Saga Ubu - or Ubu Déchaîné or Ubu Toujours, depending on how you want to take Alfred Jarry. Whatever it is, the three pieces are directed by Richardphoto: la saga ubu Demarcy and Vincent Mamrachaka and takes place at the Théâtre Internationale de Langue Française - until Saturday, 15. January. This theatre is located 'behind the Grande Halle' out at La Villette. 211. Avenue Jean Jaurés, Paris 19. Info. Tel.: 01 40 03 93 95.

Mose and Marie Grosos - are back at the Atelier A. Girard with cartoons and miniatures, which you can see from Tuesday to Friday; from 12:30 to 18:30, and by appointment. In Montparnasse at the Atelier An. Girard, 7. Rue Champagne Première, Paris 14. M"tro: Vavin. Info. Tel.: 01 43 22 01 16.

(de main de maître) - or, 'Les Métiers d'Art En l'An 2000' is a showcase for French 'creation,' supposedly with the best there is when it comes to hand-crafted works, such as glassware and fancy clothing; although there is much more than just this. Open daily, from 10:00 to 19:00, until Sunday, 6. February. At the Palais des Congrès, Paris 17. Métro: Porte Maillot. Entry fee: 40 francs.

Musée du Jouet - is not in Paris, but in Poissy and I have actually been in it. Its building is also worth a look for some its 14th century parts. Old time toys often look too fragile to have been used and abused by kids; their main attraction is that they were made by hand. There are temporary exhibitions as well as a large permanent collection. Open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 9:30 to 12:00 and from 14:00 to 17:30. Closed Mondays and holidays. Musée du Jouet, 1. Enclos de l'Abbaye, in Poissy. Reach byposter: l'ultimanoche train from Saint-Lazare or by RER line 'A;' or autoroutes A13 - free - or A14 - tollroad. Info. Tel.: 01 39 65 06 06.

Comtesse Eleonore Frankenstein - may be an early version of the 'Adams Family's' aunt, and for this you can blame Alexandre Delimoges. This piece has a starring cast of four plus a 'voice,' belonging to Catherine Lachens. Every Thursday and Saturday, at 20:00. At Le Bout, 6. Rue Frochot, Paris 9. Métro: Pigalle. Info. Tel.: 01 42 85 11 88.

Ramadan - is with us again, again at the Divan du Monde. See Moroccan dance starting on Wednesday, 22. December, and this continues until Thursday, 30. December. Humor runs from Monday, 3. January until Friday, 14. January. And finally, there will be a 1920's 'Cabaret Oriental' from Saturday, 15. January for a whole week. Divan du Monde, 75. Rue des Martyrs, Paris 18. Métro: Pigalle. Info. Tel.: 01 44 92 77 66.

This item closes new events for this week. Some posters accompanying this feature are decorative only; because I am not sure if the event is in the column or in one of the other two 'Scene' columns. Otherwise, theatre runs, for example, often don't have 'until' dates.

Ain't Misbehavin' - is also called 'The Fats Waller Show.' This show, based on the 'success' of Thomas 'Fats' Waller, won three Tonys. The flat note here, is that this show doesn't show up until Thursday, 30. March, when it begins a four-day stand in Paris. Info. Tel.: 03 89 64 21 36, and tickets at the usual places.

poster: ain't misbehavingFrançois Morellet - moved into the Musée Zadkine for a stay until 5. March. See last week's 'Café' column. Except Mondays, open daily from 10:00 to 17:30. Until Sunday, 5. March. At 100 bis, Rue d'Assas; Paris 6. Go to the back of the garden and turn right. Métro: Note-Dame-des-Champs. Info. Tel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

Le Temple de l'Homme - is some 60 works by Paul Landowski which have been gathered from four continents for this major retrospective exhibition. Landowski did the 'Christ Rédempteur' that overlooks Rio which will give you an idea of which league this one is in. Now on and continues until Sunday, 5. March. Open from Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40, at the Petit Palais, Avenue Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

Brésil Baroque - Between Earth and Sky - 500 years ago next 22. April, Alvarès Cabrai found an unknown land, which is known as Brazil today. Apparently unlike Peru or Mexico, Brazil was a blank slate, to be filled in by Indians, Africans and Europeans. The resulting art is little known in Europe and this exhibition will change our 'blank slate' view of it. Until 6. February. Next spring, 30 centuries of Mexican art will take over, also in the Petit Palais, Avenue du Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. Except Monday, open from 10:00 to 17:40; to 20:00 on Thursdays. Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

Portrait of Mexico - as part of the '2000 in Paris' salute to the new world of the Americas, a film history of Mexico is a current attraction at the Forum des Images-Vidéothèque. This is in the Forum des Halles, by the Porte Saint-Eustache entry, Paris 1. Info. Tel.: 01 44 76 62 00.

Here Come Les Fauves - for 30 years nobody has paid much attention to these wild men of color, who crashed in the public's consciousness in 1905 with theirposter: main de maitre, hotel de ville flaming palettes. No 'isms' here; just full-tilt color. Big names by the metre, lots of color; a perfect winter show. From 10:00 to 17:30 daily except Mondays; until 27. February 2000, at the Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, 11. Avenue du Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau Info. Tel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

La Mort n'en Saura Rien - is an exhibition of 74 pieces or sets depicting how man faces death, from two widely separated civilizations; Europe and the islands of the oceans. This exhibition continues until 24. January 2000. Two other single-artist exhibitions feature the Moroccan artist Farid Belkahia and the little-known Clovis Trouville. These continue until Monday, 3. January. At the Musée National des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, 293. Avenue Daumesnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée and bus 46. Open daily except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 17:30. Info. Tel.: 01 43 46 51 61.

Théo Van Gogh, Dealer, Collector - and brother of Vincent Van Gogh, put all his resources into his family, his collection and to promoting the 'unsalable' production of his brother. Théo followed all the 'isms' of the day, from Camille Corot to Camille Pissarro - as well as his brother, Vincent. Until Sunday, 9. January. Except Monday, daily from 10:00 to 18:00; Sundays from 9:00 to 18:00. Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion-d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER 'C' Musée d'Orsay. Info. Tel.: 01 40 49 48 84.

Jean Béraud et le Paris de la Belle Epoque - While the impressionists were all the rage a century ago, Jean Béaud recorded in paint the streets and byways of the City of Light, capturing the charm and the spirit of it. This exhibition presents 60 representative works and it continues until 2. February 2000, at the Musée Carnavalet, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

Napoléon's Eye - was Dominique Vivant Denon's nickname. Denon ended up being the Louvre's first director, which kind of makes him the grandfather of all big museum directors. This exhibition contains his private collections and his public ones, as Napoléon's servant. At the Louvre, every day except Tuesday, from 9:00 to 17:45; with late evening to 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. Until Monday, 17. January. Paris 1. Métro: Palais Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

Rivages - is an exhibition featuring 200 watercolors depicting the sights and treasures to be found at the water's edge, from the Côte d'Opale on the Riviera to the bay of Mont Saint-Michel or the calanques near Cassis. Part of this expo comes from the Museum of Natural History and also has an aquarium, plus sails ripplingposter: thr frankenstein in the wind. At the Espace Electra, 6. Rue Récamier, Paris 7. Open daily except Monday, from 12:00 to 19:00. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone. Info. Tel.: 01 53 63 23 45.

Robert Desnos - was a popular pioneer surrealist. All surrealism was pioneering, but not all of it was 'popular.' Desnos is having homage paid to him apparently at the bookshop of the Paris' Bibliothéque Historique, which is a few doors away from the Bibliothéque Historique itself, in the Rue Pavée. Exhibition at 22. Rue Malher, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 44 59 29 60.

Destins des Femmes - Colette as the symbol of women's destiny, is the subject of this exhibition of homage to Colette and all women who have this their mark on this century about to end. Open daily, from 10:00 to 19:00; until Sunday, 16. January. At the top of the Grande Arche at La Défense. Métro and RER: La Défense. Info. Tel.: 01 49 07 27 57.


Paris Invented - nearly everything usual today in Paris. The Pont-Neuf was invented in 1606 for example. The first covered and heated swimming pool was opened on 8. July 1884, and somebody had to dream up the first cinema, which was done in 1907. Reported to be a very good exhibition. See the history of all this until the end of March, at the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland. Info. Tel.: 01 42 76 33 97.

The Three Styles of Bouchard - here I am mentioning a sculptor whose work I've never seen and who died in 1960. The current exhibition shows about 30 of Henri Bouchard's works, executed between 1906 and 1914. Until Saturday, 11. March; open from Wednesday to Saturday, from 14:00 to 19:00. At the Musée Bouchard, 25. Rue de l'Yvette, Paris 16. Métro: Jasmin. Info. Tel.: 01 46 47 63 46.

Roni Horn - 'place' or 'geographic' art, is not about geography, but about an environment which is created to surround art, and is part of the art itself. An concurrent exhibition is titled 'L'Autre Sommeil' and it is supposed to be strange, fantastic - modern art, in short. Both until 30. January, at the Paris' Musée d'Art Modern, 11. Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Ièna or Alma-Marceau. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00; to 17:30 Tuesday to Friday and to 18:45 Saturday and Sunday. Info. Tel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Souvenirs Moscouvites 1860 - 1930 has been loaned to Paris by Moscow's history museum. The exhibition has 200 photos and some costumes; plus there is a wealth of other material from closer sources, such as the Vassiliev collection. Paris-Moscow-Paris fashions are the highlights. Until Thursday, 13. January. Musée Galliera, Paris' Musée de la Mode, at 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Except Mondays, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. Info. Tel.: 01 55 74 41 80.

Jean-Marc Nattier - official portraitist to the family of Louis XV, has his first retrospective which features about 70 paintings and some drawings. Except Mondays, from 9:45 to 17:00 daily. Until Sunday, 30. January. Where else? At the Musée du Château de Versailles, in Versailles. You can't miss it. Take the SNCF train from Montparnasse or the RER line 'C.' Info. Tel.: 01 30 83 78 00.

L'art de la Terre Vernissée - From the middle ages to 2000; includes decorative fragments by Bernard Palissy from the grotto of the Château des Tuileries, which has not been with us since 1871. Until Monday, 10. January; from 10:00 to 17:00 daily except Tuesdays. There are a lot of other objects to see as well at the Musée de Céramique Sèvres, Place de la Manufacture - at the south end of the Pont de Sèvres. Métro: same name. Info. Tel.: 01 41 14 04 20.

La Maison Fournaise - is a 19th century guinguette, on an island in the Seine near Chatou. The nearby Grenouille, a floating café at Croissy, was too frenzied with boaters and bathers for Renoir, so he immortalized La Maison Fournaise with his 'Le Déjeuner des Canotiers' instead. Canoe fans came every weekend, and they still do because of the adjacent boatworks. Guy de Maupassant was another guest of the riverside café, and he included it in his 'La Femme de Paul, Mouche, Yvette.'

Until 2. April 2000, La Maison Fournaise presents its history and its former guests. On the Ile des Impressionistes, in Chatou. Take 'RER' line 'A' to Rueil-Malmaison or Chatou-Croissy. Open from Thursday to Sunday, from 11:00 to 17:00. Info. Tel.: 01 34 80 63 22.

The following items are featured in more detail in earlier 'Scene' columns: Eugène de Beauharnais, An Ostentatious Auto-Clock, Messages from the Other-World, Maitres de l'Encre, Turner et la Seine, and India Ink.

Atget & Abbott - is two exhibitions. One is Berenice Abbott's 'Changing New York, 1935 - 1939' which was organized by the New York City Museum and the other is 'Itnéraires Parisiens' by Eugène Atget. This exhibition continues until Sunday, 16. January. Except Mondays and holidays, daily from 10:00 to 17:40. Musée Carnavalet - Histoire de Paris, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

Mois de la Photo - The 11th - or the 20th! - Anniversary of the bi-annual 'Mois de la Photo,' calls for a more ambitious program than usual. However, the 'Month of the Photo,' starts in November, 2000. In the interval, check out the Maison Européenne de la Photo, 5-7. rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 75 07.

The following photo items are presented in more detail in an earlier 'Scene' column: La Fondation Pour la Photographie, Paris Match's 'Eye' and theCatacombs Photo Show.

'Pas Si Bêtes! 1000 Cerveaux, 1000 Mondes' - Paris' Grande Galerie de l'Evolution du Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle has an exhibition about the possible interactivity between brains. I don't have any info about this other than the address of the Web version, which will be online until 10. July 2000. The museum is in the Jardin des Plantes, with its entry at 36. Rue Geoffrey Saint-Hillaire, Paris 5. Métro: Place Monge is closest.

Hommage à Bernard Anthonioz - editor and contemporary of André Malraux, Bernard Anthonioz touched nearly everything classified as art today. This exhibition shows works of artists he supported, from Picasso and Braque, to Cuecoposter: ramadan, divan du monde and Viallat. Until Sunday, 2. January, at the Couvent des Cordeliers, 15. Rue de l'Ecole de Médecine, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon or Cluny-La Sorbonne. Open Tuesday at Sunday, from 11:00 to 19:00. Info. Tel.: 01 43 29 39 64.

Musée d'Art et d'Historie du Judaïsme - has two shows: the first is entitled 'Regards - Sur la Vie Juive au Maroc' and the second, in the 'Chambre du Duc,' will present the works of Jean-Pierre Bertrand with the title 'Ethrog, 1999.' Both exhibitions continue until Sunday, 2. January 2000.

The museum is open from Monday to Friday, from 11:00 to 18:00 and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. Info Tel.: 01 53 01 86 53 and Fax.: 33 1 42 72 97 47. Since it is a new museum, there is also an Internet address you can write to for information. Musée d'Art et d'Historie du Judaïsme, in the Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, at 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau.

Jean-Sans-Peur's Tower Reopens - at 20. Rue Etienne Marcel, Paris 2. Métro: Etienne Marcel. Info. Tel.: 01 42 61 55 02.

Also see in earlier 'Scene' columns: Ulysses's Europe, Balzac'< 'La Femme, Mode d'Emploi,' Le Jardin Planétaire, Kaï Higashiyama's Voyages Dans la Ferveur , Le Coup d'Etat du 18 Brumaire, An VIII and Jean Moulin, 1899-1943.

The Scandinavians - have followed the Russians into the 'Le Chemin du Montparnasse,' formerly the Musée du Montparnasse. Its location and vocation are unchanged. The exhibition is named 'Les Vikings à Montparnasse.'

Also see, in the contemporary gallery, the works of Karin Lewin, who has rendered the artist's 'tools of the trade.' Both exhibitions continue until Sunday, 9. January. Le Chemin du Montparnasse, 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. Open from Wednesday to Sunday; from 13:00 to 19:00.

Animal - Antoine Bourdelle liked animals when he was a little kid and he made little models of them. The grown-up Bourdelle did even more with animals and this is the subject of the current exhibition at the Musée Bourdelle, 16. Rue Antoine Bourdelle, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. Except Monday, open from 10:00 to 17:40 daily. Continues until Sunday 16. January 2000. Info. Tel.: 01 49 54 73 73.

Théâtre Châtelet Reopens - completely renovated, this large theatre belonging to the city has programmed 210 performances and has 276,297 seats for sale for the 1999-2000 season. Two pieces by Gluck start off Châtelet's new life, with music by John Eliot Gardiner and direction by Robert Wilson. Info. Tel.: 01 40 28 28 00.

Salut les Artistes! - announces the Chaillot 1999/2000 season - its 80th. If you want to be up-to-date right now give the Web site of the Théâtre National de Chaillot a hit or call the Info. Tel.: 01 53 65 30 00.

The Cinémathèque Française - has a non-stop program of rare film projections. The film museum operates in two locations: at the Palais de Chaillot, garden entry; and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Auto-Info Tel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

Biographie: Un Jeu - is a theatre piece by Max Frisch, directed by Frédéric Belier-Garcia which is playing now and until Thursday, 23. December at the Théâtre de l'Aquarium Cartoucherie, located on the Route du Champ de Manoeuvre, Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes, plus there is a free shuttle-bus. Info. Tel.: 01 43 74 99 61.

La Question d'Argent - was written by Alexandre Dumas Fils and this version is directed by Régis Santon. This is some history about greed and loathing concerning the stock market, way back then. The bourgeois, the aristos, hiccups, and funny bits. On until 23. January, from Tuesday to Saturday, at 20:30; on Sundays at 16:00. Théâtre Silvia Monfort, 106. Rue Brancion, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Vanves. Info. Tel.: 00 45 31 10 96.

L'Envol du Pingouin - Jean-Jacques Vanier is a sailor navigating in an ocean of nonsense, which I think is another way of saying he makes a living by fast-talking sketches on stages. Tuesday to Saturday, at 20:30; on Sundays at 17:00. At L'Européen, 5. Rue Viot, Paris 17. Métro: Place de Clichy.Info. Tel.: 01 43 87 97 13.

Pardon Platon - is by Marc Monsallier and the piece is directed by Catherine Brieux. It may be a comedy, but in French this is a generic term that may have nothing to do with laughing. Judging from the poster, nobody plays a 'pingouin' in it. Until Sunday, 16. January. From Tuesday to Saturday, at 21:00; on Sundays at 17:30. I can't resist the name of the theatre: Théâtre 'Les Cinq Diamants,' 10. Rue des Cinq Diamants, Paris 13. Métro: Corvisart or Italie. Info. Tel.: 01 45 80 51 31.

Outrage aux Moeurs - or, the three trials of Oscar Wilde, by Moïsés Kaufman, adapted by Jean-Marie Besset, directed by Thierry Harcourt. Until Saturday, 8. January. At the Théâtre 14 / J M Serreau, 20. Avenue Marc Sangnier, Paris 14. Métro: Porte de Vanves. Info. Tel.: 01 45 45 49 77.

See the following theatre items: Les Contes Drolatiques, La Fausse Suivante, Les Trois Mousquetaires, L'Amant Anglaise, Les Nouvelles Brèves de Comptoir and 'Le Tartuffe' - which is by Molière, and dance items: Iles des Danses and L'Art d'Etre Spectateur; all in more detail in earlier 'Scene' columns.

See two other items: Palais des Congrés - The newly reopened Palais des Congrés is hosting a super-show known locally as 'De Gaulle, Celui Qui a Dit Non.' and the 8th Festival de Théâtre Hispanique.

Rent-a-Bike - details about the RATP's 'Roue Libre' and other bike rental possibilities are included in a previous 'Scene' column.

New for me - my very own street now has its very own roller boutique and skate rental shop. Does this mean I will soon join the Friday Night Roller Rando? Not likely. It's freezing out there.

Cyberposte - France's La Poste has 1000 post offices throughout France with Internet connections, possibly making La Poste the world biggest cybercafé without any café. All you do is buy a rechargeable Cyberposte card for 50 francs, which is good for one hour of network time. A recharge of the card only costs 30 francs and it can be recharged as often as you want. You can also get a personal email account. Also see 'La Poste's' services for philatelists.

Fleuve Noir - is the name of a 'pulp fiction' publisher, celebrating 50 years of success. One hundred authors, 6000poster: concerts st severin titles; see them all at the - the French name is too long! - at Cop Shop Books, 48-50. Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, Paris 5. Until 26. February; closed Mondays, open weekdays from 14:00 to 18:00, from 10:00 to 18:00 on Saturdays. Métro: Cardinal-Lemoine. Info. Tel.: 01 42 34 93 00.

Rétromobile 2000 - If you wish to exhibit at the coming Rétromobile 2000, here are the telephone and fax numbers of the people who organize this exhibition: from outside France telephone 33 1 48 44 30 30; the fax number is 33 1 48 44 15 15.

I am including this information here because the 'Rétromobile' organization is not on the Web and has no email. When asked why not, they said, 'Because we are Rétro.' For visitors, the dates for the coming edition of Rétromobile 2000 are from Friday, 11. February to Sunday, 20. February 2000. At Paris-Expo.

Tickets: Théâtre On Line - presents the majority of theatre performances in Paris and the Ile-de-France, with news of new shows, criticism, and has a searchable database.

Tickets: www.fnac.com - France's giant media and cultural retailer also has its 'ticket' Web site, which has just been presented with a new face-lift, which is called a 're-loook.'

fnac's site will also present a vast array - 6000 shows - of performances, events, and amusement park entries, in Paris, the Ile-de-France, and throughout France. fnac is present in many locations in Paris, throughout France and also in Belgium, Spain, Portugal, Brazil and Taiwan.

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