Where's the Program?

photo: lenoir & spectators

The world's oldest car creates a scene at Rétromobile.

What's On? Where? When?

Paris:- Saturday, 12. February 2000:- I don't know if it is a result of being a little more organized - any kind of organization here is a 'lot' more - or it is something I've never noticed before, but there seems to be a 'hole' in the calendar of events for Paris.

Last Wednesday at the Paris Tourist Office on the Champs-Elysées, I could not obtain aposter: belle lurette, operetta brochure with the 'spring-summer' program for this year. The program for Paris' own sites, which I did obtain, seems to be blank until next fall.

Then, the date is working against me. 'Paris - le Journal,' which contains a wealth of information, will not appear until Tuesday, 15. February at the earliest. For this reason, new items may be a bit rare for this issue.

Navigation Note:-For some issues of Metropole, there will be two 'Scene' pages. This regular one will be for current events in Paris, and the occasional other one will be for special 'Paris 2000' events; which will include '2000 In France' items.

If you pop back and forth within a week's two 'Scene' pages, your browser's 'back' or 'return' button may not return you to the issue's 'contents' page. Use 'This Issue' in Metropole's navigation line at the top and bottom of these pages.



The items below are not necessarily 'new;' but they are new to this column.

Le Maroc - as photographed by Gérard Rondeau, from 1994 to 1997. Done for the book, 'Figures au Maroc,' this exhibition shows a part of the photos - of architecture, landscapes, portraits and typical scenes; plus a photo-report tracing the life of Delacroix in Morocco. Until Monday, 13. March. Except Tuesday, open daily from 9:30 to 17:00. At the Musée Eugène Delacroix, 6. Rue Fustenburg, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Germain. Info. Tel.: 01 44 41 86 50.

Droit de Cité Pour la Presse - is subtitled 'Liberté à la Une' - Freedom for the Front Page. This is an exhibition entirely devoted to the idea of the right to access information and freedom of expressing it. Historically it passes from Théophraste Renaudot's 'La Gazette' to the Internet of our times. Until Monday, 15. May, at the Palais-Brongniart, which is also known as the Bourse de Paris. Daily from 10:00 to 19:00. Métro: Bourse.

Les Acteurs à l'Ecran - is a little film festival that runs from Friday, 25. February until Sunday, 5. March; at the Ciné 104 at Pantin, in Saint-Denis. Info. Tel.: 01 48 20 99 20.

La Belle Lurette - is an operetta, possibly with sailors, because it is playing on board the Opéra Péniche. Supposedly, this piece is how Paris' plain folksposter: dinosaures, palais de la decouverte would have done it in the 'Belle Epoque' if they hadn't been scrambling for their daily bread. Until Saturday, 4. March. La Péniche Opéra, tied up to 42. Quai de la Loire, Paris 19. Info. Tel.: 01 53 35 07 77.

Shirley - is a one-lady show, featuring Judith Magre. If this is the one I saw on TV-news, she has an unusually gravelly voice, somewhat like a cement-mixer. Except Mondays, at 19:30 and at 15:30 on Sundays. Théâtre du Rond-Point, 2. bis, Avenue Franklin-Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: same name. Info. Tel.: 01 44 95 98 10.

Le Crépuscule des Dinosaures - is something to scare adults with, but kids will love it. Until Sunday, 14. May. At the Palais de la Découverte, Avenue Franklin-Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: same name. Info. Tel.: 01 56 43 20 21.

This item closes the opening 'new' events for this week. You will find some other new items below. Again, lack of time has not permitted me to form a text to go with each of the images - but they do represent current events in Paris.

Jean Chevolleau - this is a retrospective for a modern painter's output over 50 years: showing his adventures with cubism, light, color and abstraction. This exhibition begins on Friday, 25. February and continues until Sunday, 12. March. At the Mairie of the 15th Arrondissement, 31. Rue Péclet, Paris 15. Métro: Vaugiraud. Assume this show to be closed on Sundays and open during usual business hours.

The Tour Eiffel In 352 Snapshots - Last year, starting on 1. January, Jean-Paul Lubliner posed himself beneath the Tour Eiffel and snapped its photo daily. These 'snaps' go on display, starting on Saturday, 18. March, until Friday, 31. March. Except Tuesday, open daily from 10:00 to 17:00. The problem here is the location given doesn't match the given métro station, and neither seem a likely location for this exhibition. Details to come.

The Month of British Theatre - 'Londres sur Seine' is scheduled to begin on Tuesday, 7. March, and will run in three Paris theatres: Théâtre Silvia Montfort, Info. Tel.: 01 43 13 50 60; at the Cité Internationale, Info. Tel.: 01 45 33 66 70; and Paris Villette, Info. Tel.: 01 42 02 02 68. Programmed for Silvia Montfort: 'East' by Steven Berkof; 'The Importance of Being Ernest' by Oscar Wilde; 'Sell Out' by Micheal Wynne and 'Some Explicit Polaroids' by Mark Ravenhill. 'Operation Made In Britain' - in French - is scheduled for the Cité Universitaire, and 'La Terrible Voix de Satan' by Gregory Motton will play at Paris-Villette.

15th Festival du Film de Paris - begins on Monday, 27. March and continues until Monday, 3. April: all at the Cinéma Gaumont-Marignan, 27. Avenue des Champs-Elysées, Paris 8. The subtitle for this is 'Paris-Hollywood sur Seine.' Details, I hope, to follow.

This coming spring, 30 centuries of Mexican art will take over from Brazil Baroque, also in the Petit Palais, Avenue du Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. Except Monday, open from 10:00 to 17:40; to 20:00 on Thursdays. Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

Paris' Museums Online - is not the official name for the new Web site that is being launched, to present Paris' own 15 museums. To begin, the city's museums will be grouped on one Web site, but are expected to eventually develop their own sites. The city has hired 20 young people to put this together, and in the future the site should be very elaborate, with a mine of information available.

Il Signor di Balzac - was to have been an Italian view of superstar Balzac, which was planned but has been put off until fall on account of storm damage to the Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Info. Tel.: 01 55 74 41 80. Note: the Maison de Balzac is closed to the public for repairs.

Trésors des Arts Asiatiques - is from the collection of Mr and Mrs John D. Rockerfeller III, which is now managed by the Asia Society. This show features 81 major pieces from the entire collection, and comes to Paris after being shown in Melbourne, Sydney and Shanghai. This show continues until Sunday, 14. May. It can be seenposter: films, stars au feminin daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40, at the Musée Cernuschi, 7. Avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Métro: Monceau or Villiers. Info. Tel.: 01 45 63 50 75.

Portrait of Mexico - as part of the '2000 in Paris' salute to the new world of the Americas, a film history of Mexico is a current attraction at the Forum des Images-Vidéothèque. This is in the Forum des Halles, by the Porte Saint-Eustache entry, Paris 1. Info. Tel.: 01 44 76 62 00.

Next To Last Chance: Here Come Les Fauves - for 30 years nobody has paid much attention to these wild men of color, who crashed in the public's consciousness in 1905 with their flaming palettes. No 'isms' here; just full-tilt color. Big names by the metre, lots of color; a perfect winter show. So perfect that Jan and Dana Shaw say buying entry tickets in advance is absolutely necessary if you want to get in. From 10:00 to 17:30 daily except Mondays; until 27. February 2000, at the Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, 11. Avenue du Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau Info. Tel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Rétromobile 2000 - For old car and old boat fanciers, the 25th edition of Rétromobile offers the best there is in Europe. This year, the 'Best of Ferrari' takes the spotlight, with 20 models on display. Other famous racing cars will also be featured, along with a special section for scooters. Also see what is possibly the oldest car in the world - built by Etiènne Lenoir between 1863 and 1882.

Need a rare part? It will be here too, plus everything else to do with old speed machines - such as a 1950 Ferrari-powered speedboat. Until Sunday, 20. February 2000. At Paris-Expo. See the feature in this issue.

Montparnasse and the XIVe Arrondissement - the Action Artistique de le Ville de Paris has brought together a multi-layered show, featuring drawings, paintings, building plans and some early photos taken from balloons, to present a 'history' of one of Paris' more 'artistic' arrondissements - showing a bit more of the arrondissement than of Montparnasse itself. This exhibition continues until Wednesday, 1. March. You can find it in the annex of the Mairie of the 14th, at 12. Rue Durouchoux. Métro: Mouton-Duvernet. Open daily from 12:00 to 18:00; and conferences are held at 16:00 from Monday to Friday. Info. Tel.: 01 43 25 30 30.

Pri-ya - is the name of an Israeli artist who is featured in an exhibition with the long title of 'New Acrylic Technique In the Art of Painting,' in the Chagall Salon of the Maison France-Israel, 64. Avenue Marceau, Paris 8. On show until Tuesday, 29. February. Info. Tel.: 01 44 43 36 36.

Venise de Zoran Music - is an exhibition of 100 paintings and aquarelles done by Zoran Music between 1946 and 1998, at Paris' museum for the 18th century. At the Musée Cognacq-Jay, 8. Rue Elzéir, Paris 3. Opening hours are 10;00 to 17:40 daily except Mondays and holidays, until Sunday, 16. April. Info. Tel.: 01 40 27 07 21.

Oser Le Savoir - which translates as 'Dare to Know,' features '10 keys to the future' which will be presented with exhibitions and debates, from February until the end of the year. This takes place, in cooperation with the CNRS, at the Cité des Sciences & de l'Industrie at La Villette. 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. Info. Tel.: 0140 05 80 00.

Lasar Segall - the retrospective has been put together by the Laser Segall Museum of Sao Paulo, the Jewish Museum of New York and the Smart Museum of Chicago. Little-known in France despite a four-year period in Paris and a retrospective in 1959, Segallposter: ©succession segall spent most of his life in Brazil. From Thursday, 3. February to Sunday, 14. May, at the Musée d'Art et Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 86 53.

Image©Succession Segall

Marcel Proust - and his 3000-page 'A la Recherche du Temps Perdu' is supposed to be as exhaustive as Eugène Atget's collection of photos. They might not have been exactly in the same circles, but they were at the same time. This exhibition, with material from the Musée d'Orsay, is at the Grande Bibliothèque, in the Grande Galerie - Hall Est - which is still at the Quai François-Mauriac, Paris 14. Métro: end of the line 14. Info. Tel.: 01 53 97 59 59.

De Bébé Cadum à Mamie Nova - this poster show features animals, people, and other objects used to personify products for their promotion. The posters in question are old ones, some featuring products past their heyday, some featuring ones that are still around. There are three interests satisfied here: graphics, French products and how they were promoted Until Friday, 31. March. At the Bibliothèque Forney, 1. Rue de Figuier, Paris 4. Métro: Pont Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 42 78 14 60.

François Morellet - moved into the Musée Zadkine for a stay until Sunday, 5. March. See comment in a recent 'Café' column. Except Mondays, open daily from 10:00 to 17:30. Until Sunday, 5. March. At 100 bis, Rue d'Assas; Paris 6. Go to the back of the garden and turn right. Métro: Note-Dame-des-Champs. Info. Tel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

Le Temple de l'Homme - is some 60 works by Paul Landowski which have been gathered from four continents for this major retrospective exhibition. Landowski did the 'Christ Rédempteur' that overlooks Rio which will give you an idea of which league this one is in. Now on and continues untilbrochure: program la villette Sunday, 5. March. Open from Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40, at the Petit Palais, Avenue Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

Robert Desnos - was a popular pioneer surrealist. All surrealism was pioneering, but not all of it was 'popular.' Desnos is having homage paid to him apparently at the bookshop of the Paris' Bibliothéque Historique, which is a few doors away from the Bibliothéque Historique itself, in the Rue Pavée. Exhibition at 22. Rue Malher, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 44 59 29 60.

La Montagne à Paris - the history and the patrimony of the 'mountains' of the 20th arrondissement are featured in this exhibition, from the 18th century to modern times. Organized by the Action Artistique, at the Mairie of the 20th, Place Léon Gambetta. Métro: Gambetta. Until Tuesday, 21. March; from 12:00 to 18:00. No entry charge. Info. Tel.: 01 43 15 20 20.


The Centre Georges Pompidou - aka 'Beaubourg,' is again open to the public and the public, deprived of its cultural factory is turning up in droves - just like it used to do. 'Stars au Féminin' features 150 films, until 2. October. There is also an important exhibition on at the moment according to a TV-report, but I can find nothing written about it which I expected to do instead of remembering the TV thing - which I don't. The fallback is Beaubourg's Web site.

Cornélia Marjolin Scheffer - died just over 100 years ago, but was the daughter of Ary Scheffer and a painter herself as well as being married to a surgeon. Anyhow, she turned her house into a 'salon' and it became the Musée de la Vie Romantique. This special exhibition is in addition to the permanent collection, and continues until Thursday, 27. July. At 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Paris Invented - nearly everything usual today in Paris. The Pont-Neuf was invented in 1606 for example. The first covered and heated swimming pool wasbrochure: musee picassoopened on 8. July 1884, and somebody had to dream up the first cinema, which was done in 1907. Reported to be a very good exhibition. See the history of all this until the end of March, at the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland. Info. Tel.: 01 42 76 33 97.

The Three Styles of Bouchard - here I am mentioning a sculptor whose work I've never seen and who died in 1960. The current exhibition shows about 30 of Henri Bouchard's works, executed between 1906 and 1914. Until Saturday, 11. March; open from Wednesday to Saturday, from 14:00 to 19:00. At the Musée Bouchard, 25. Rue de l'Yvette, Paris 16. Métro: Jasmin. Info. Tel.: 01 46 47 63 46.

La Maison Fournaise - is a 19th century guinguette, on an island in the Seine near Chatou. The nearby Grenouille, a floating café at Croissy, was too frenzied with boaters and bathers for Renoir, so he immortalized La Maison Fournaise with his 'Le Déjeuner des Canotiers' instead. Canoe fans came every weekend, and they still do because of the adjacent boatworks. Guy de Maupassant was another guest of the riverside café, and he included it in his 'La Femme de Paul, Mouche, Yvette.'

Until 2. April 2000, La Maison Fournaise presents its history and its former guests. On the Ile des Impressionistes, in Chatou. Take 'RER' line 'A' to Rueil-Malmaison or Chatou-Croissy. Open from Thursday to Sunday, from 11:00 to 17:00. Info. Tel.: 01 34 80 63 22.

Herb Ritts - a 'grand' retrospective is the order of the day for Herb Ritts, with 100 remarkable photos of stars and fashion, from the '80's and '90's. Until Sunday, 12. March, at the Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain, 261. Boulevard Raspail, Paris 14. Métro: Raspail or Denfert-Rochereau.Info. Tel.: 01 42 18 56 51.

Mois de la Photo - The 11th - or the 20th! - Anniversary of the bi-annual 'Mois de la Photo,' calls for a more ambitious program than usual. However, the 'Month of the Photo,' starts in November, 2000. In the interval, check out the Maison Européenne de la Photo, 5-7. rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 75 07.

The following photo item is presented in more detail in an earlier 'Scene' column: La Fondation Pour la Photographie.

Aimée - In 1931 Marguerite Anzieu met Jacques Lacan in the Sainte-Anne booby-hatch after she attempted to kill Huguette Duflos, an actress. Dr. Lucan called this 'Le Cas Aimée' which was about paranoia, which in turn captured the attention of the Surrealists - which led to it all being turned into theatre stuff. Based on text by Marguerite Anzieu, with a little help from her shrink. At the Lucernaire, 53. Rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs, Paris 6. Daily except Sundays and Mondays; at 18:15. Info. Tel.: 01 45 44 57 34.

C'est Pour Demain - is a 'comedy' based on 'Les Diaboliques' by Roland Dubillard. It has something to do with an innocent prisoner who has a composer for a keeper; one whose wife throws pots at his head. This plays from Thursday to Saturday at 20:00 and on Sundays at 15:00; until Sunday, 27. February, at the Aktéon Théâtre, 11. Rue du Général Blaise, Paris 11. Métro: Saint-Amboise or Saint-Maur. Info. Tel.: 01 43 38 74 62.

Ain't Misbehavin' - is also called 'The Fats Waller Show.' This show, based on the 'success' of Thomas 'Fats' Waller, won three Tonys. The flat note here, isbrochure: program opera that this show doesn't show up until Thursday, 30. March, when it begins a four-day stand in Paris. Info. Tel.: 03 89 64 21 36, and tickets at the usual places.

Comtesse Eleonore Frankenstein - may be an early version of the 'Adams Family's' aunt, and for this you can blame Alexandre Delimoges. This piece has a starring cast of four plus a 'voice,' belonging to Catherine Lachens. Every Thursday and Saturday, at 20:00. At Le Bout, 6. Rue Frochot, Paris 9. Métro: Pigalle. Info. Tel.: 01 42 85 11 88.

Théâtre Châtelet Reopens - completely renovated, this large theatre belonging to the city has programmed 210 performances and has 276,297 seats for sale for the 1999-2000 season. Two pieces by Gluck start off Châtelet's new life, with music by John Eliot Gardiner and direction by Robert Wilson. Info. Tel.: 01 40 28 28 00.

Salut les Artistes! - announces the Chaillot 1999/2000 season - its 80th. If you want to be up-to-date right now give the Web site of the Théâtre National de Chaillot a hit or call the Info. Tel.: 01 53 65 30 00.

L'Envol du Pingouin - Jean-Jacques Vanier is a sailor navigating in an ocean of nonsense, which I think is another way of saying he makes a living by fast-talking sketches on stages. Tuesday to Saturday, at 20:30; on Sundays at 17:00. At L'Européen, 5. Rue Viot, Paris 17. Métro: Place de Clichy.Info. Tel.: 01 43 87 97 13.

Les Chrétiens de l'An Mil - involves the posing of the question of how our ancestors faced the year 1000. The documents on show in this exhibition - for the first time - tell us exactly what was going on then in the minds of the people concerned. On show at the Musée d'Histoire de France, Hôtel de Soubise, 60. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. Until Monday, 3. April. Open daily except Tuesdays; on Monday to Friday from 10:00 to 17:45; on Saturday and Sunday, from 13:45 to 17:45. Info. Tel.: 01 40 27 62 18.

The BnF Launches Gallica 2000 Free of charge, France's Bibliothèque Nationale has just cranked up its Gallica server to offer more than 35,000 titles - either for consulting online or for download as PDF files. Most of these titles are 19th century texts and few are literature - but this will change over time. After all its stops and starts, the BnF is now 'open to the world.'

'Pas Si Bêtes! 1000 Cerveaux, 1000 Mondes' - Paris' Grande Galerie de l'Evolution du Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle has an exhibition about the possible interactivity between brains. I don't have any info about this other than the address of the Web version, which will be online until 10. July 2000. There are other concurrent exhibition at the Jardin des Plantes as well. The museum is in the Jardin des Plantes, with its entry at 36. Rue Geoffrey Saint-Hillaire, Paris 5. Métro: Place Monge is closest.

Jean-Sans-Peur's Tower Opens - read Metropole's feature then go and see the decor in the unusual stairway. at 20. Rue Etienne Marcel, Paris 2. Métro: Etienne Marcel. Info. Tel.: 01 42 61 55 02.

Alcools - will be featured in 100 films until Thursday, 16. March, at the Forum des Images at the Nouveau Forum des Halles, Porte Saint-Eustache. Paris 1. Info. Tel.: 01 44 76 62 00.

Etienne-Jules Marey - France is like Russia; everything was invented here first. Butposter: les acteurs a l'ecran, st denis the French go one better by turning up French inventors who were 'before' French inventors. The Lumière brothers did not invent moving films; this guy Etienne-Jules Marey did. He used it to film bugs in motion and was horrified by the idea of it being entertaining. Marey died in 1904, thus leaving the coast clear for the Lumière brothers and Disney. See this exhibition, until Sunday, 19. March, at the Espace Electra, 6. Rue Récamier, Paris 7. Open daily except Monday, from 12:00 to 19:00. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone. Info. Tel.: 01 53 63 23 45.

The Cinémathèque Française - has a non-stop program of rare film projections. The film museum operates in two locations: at the Palais de Chaillot, garden entry; and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Auto-Info Tel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

8th Semi-Marathon de Paris - is shorter than the full marathon in April, but seems to have just as many rules. Maximum number of runners: 14,000. Lonely you will not be. Deadline for sign-up is Friday, 25. February. A medical certificate is required. Starting place: Stade Charléty, 17. Avenue Pierre-de-Coubertin, Paris 13. Métro: RER 'B' - Cité Universitaire. Starting time: 10:00. To be run on Sunday, 12. March. Info. Tel.: 01 41 33 15 68, Fax.: 01 41 33 15 69. Check the Web site for additional details.

24th Marathon de Paris - suggests you get off to a 'good start' by registering. Last year - or the year before - Metropole had a reader in this race, who trained for it in northern India where there are some high hills. He did not win because he was looking forward to the free pasta party, held, I assume, after the race. This year the marathoners will run out to the Bois de Vincennes, then back to the Bois de Boulogne before heading to the finish line in the Avenue Foch. On the métro this would be quite a long aller-retour.

Deadline for sign-up is Sunday, 19. March. A FFA license or a medical certificate is required. Starting place: Champs-Elysées. To be run on Sunday, 9. April. Info. Tel.: 01 41 33 15 68, Fax.: 01 41 33 15 69. Check the Web site for additional details.

Rent-a-Bike - details about the RATP's 'Roue Libre' and other bike rental possibilities are included in a previous 'Scene' column.

Cyclotourists should also check out the 'The Best Biking Guide to Paris And Day Trips Outside Paris,' which is by Rose Burke who has personally tested everything for you.

Cyberposte - France's La Poste has 1000 post offices throughout France with Internet connections, possibly making La Poste the world biggest cybercafé without any café. All you do is buy a rechargeable Cyberposte card for 50 francs, which is good for one hour of network time. A recharge of the card only costs 30 francs and it can be recharged as often as you want. You can also get a personal email account. Also see 'La Poste's' services for philatelists. Service Philatélique de La Poste, 18. Rue François-Bonvin, 75758 Paris, Cedex 15.

Musée du Jouet - is not in Paris, but in Poissy and I have actually been in it. Its building is also worth a look for some its 14th century parts. Old time toys often look too fragile to have been used and abused by kids; their main attraction is that they were made by hand. There are temporary exhibitions as well as a large permanent collection. Open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 9:30 to 12:00 and from 14:00 to 17:30. Closed Mondays and holidays. Musée du Jouet, 1. Enclos de l'Abbaye, in Poissy. Reach by train from Saint-Lazare or by RER line 'A;' or autoroutes A13 - free - or A14 - tollroad. Info. Tel.: 01 39 65 06 06.

Tickets: Théâtre On Line - presents the majority of theatre performances in Paris and the Ile-de-France, with news of new shows, criticism, and has a searchable database.

Tickets: www.fnac.com - France's giant media and cultural retailer also has its 'ticket' Web site, which has just been presented with a new face-lift, which is called a 're-loook.'

fnac's site will also present a vast array - 6000 shows - of performances, events, and amusement park entries, in Paris, the Ile-de-France, and throughout France. fnac is present in many locations in Paris, throughout France and also in Belgium, Spain, Portugal, Brazil and Taiwan.

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