Paris Is Surrounded

photo: display easter chocolates

Reminder: next Sunday is bunny day.

By the Ile-de-France

Paris:- Saturday, 15. April 2000:- The Ile-de-France is the region that surrounds Paris - which is more or less well-known. The region's problem is that it is very big; but its major attraction is that it is authentic French 'countryside,' and it is not far from Paris.

Some items in this column have Ile-de-Francebrochure: fetes ile de france locations. For example, on Easter Sunday there will be Easter-egg hunts at the Ferme de Gally - just west of Versailles, and at the Henri Sellier park in Plessis-Robinson. For the first, Info. Tel.: 01 34 60 63 30 and for the second, Info. Tel.: 01 46 01 43 27.

Much easier is to point out that the region has an office in Paris, which is in the underground Carrousel du Louvre, next to the inverted pyramid. It is open every day except Tuesday, from 10:00 to 19:00. The Ile-de-France Web site is always open. And there is an Info. Tel.: at 08 03 81 80 00, which operates from 10:00 to 19:00.

The current brochure for festivals and events in the Ile-de-France from April to June runs to 65 pages. If you are in Paris, you can pick up a copy either at the Ile-de-France office, or at the several locations of the Paris Tourist Office.

Navigation Note:-For some rare issues of Metropole, there will be two 'Scene' pages. This regular one will be for current events in Paris, and the occasional other one will be for special 'Paris 2000' events; which will include '2000 In France' items.

If you pop back and forth within a week's two 'Scene' pages, your browser's 'back' or 'return' button may not return you to the issue's 'contents' page. Use 'This Issue' in Metropole's navigation line at the top and bottom of these pages.



The items below are not necessarily 'new;' but they open this week's column.

Ozawa at the Champ de Mars - Seiji Ozawa takes over a huge space to wave his magic baton for an evening's free concert featuring the Boston Symphony and the Orchestra de Paris, with a choir of a 1000 local kids who sing like angels. This should be a 'Year 2000' highlight. Free entry for all, on Friday, 5. May. On the Champs de Mars in Paris.

Exodes - for six years and through 40 countries, the photographer Sebastião Salgado sought the story of the world's refugees. Until 3. September, atposter: bibliotheque marmottan, boulogne the Maison Européenne de la Photo, 5-7. rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

La Seine et Paris - is an exceptional exhibition because it brings together many items from many sources, to treat two subjects that are inseparable. The Seine has fed Paris, in the days before reliable roads; and the river continues to play its important role - while Parisians and visitors get to admire it. Until Friday, 19. May, this exhibition can be found in the Mairie of the 1st arrondissement, at 4. Place du Louvre. Métro: Louvre-Rivoli. Then from Tuesday, 30. May until Friday, 7. July it will be in the Mairie of the 4th arrondissement, at the Place Baudoyer. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. In both locations, from 12:00 to 18:00; Mondays to Friday.

Brassaï - for the first time in France, Brassaï gets a big retrospective, featuring over 400 works, including photographs, sculptures, designs - some of which are being shown here for the first time. Starting Wednesday, 19. April and continuing until Monday, 26. June; from 11:00 to 21:00, daily except Tuesdays. At the Centre Cultural Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau.

François Mendras - is a modern painter in several styles, all of them large. His special trick: wax. Until Sunday, 4. June see his works in the Espace Hall, at the Palais des Congrès, at 2. Place de la Porte Maillot, Paris 17. Métro: Porte Maillot. Info. Tel.: 01 40 68 22 22.

This item closes the opening 'new' events for this week. You will find some other new items below. Again, lack of time has not permitted me to form a text to go with each of the images - but they do represent current events in Paris.

Lumière aux Cordeliers - eight well-known artists who use light, but not always with electricity, will be having their works shown in the Couvent des Cordeliers, from Wednesday, 26. April until Sunday, 4. June. Open from Tuesday to Sunday; from 11:00 to 19:00. Couvent desposter: lumiere aux cordeliers Cordeliers, 15. Rue de l'Ecole de Médecine, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon. Info. Tel.: 01

James Turrell - concurrently with the exhibition at the Couvent des Cordeliers, the Espace Electra will be featuring James Turrell, who plays with light and space. From Thursday, 27. April until Tuesday, 18. July. This event also marks the Espace Electra's 10th anniversary. At 6. Rue Récamier, Paris 7. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone. Info. Tel.: 01 53 63 23 45.

Soleils Mexicains - arrives on Saturday, 29. April in a big show of 250 pieces that continues until 13. August. Featuring pre-Columbian works to the major talents of the 20th century. This is part of the '200 In Paris' homage to the Americas. Coming to the Petit Palais, Avenue du Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. Except Monday, open from 10:00 to 17:40; to 20:00 on Thursdays. Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

Le Canotage - while canoes are happening outside, in the interior there will be 'Intérieur' by Vlaminck, which the Musée Fournaise thinks he may have painted there. 'There' is the Ile des Impressionistes at Chatou, which has its boatworks, historic museum and a restaurant. From Thursday, 27. April until 29. October. Musée Fournaise, Ile des Impressionistes, 78400 Chatou. Take RER line 'A' to Chatou-Croissy or Reuil-Malmaison. Open Thursday and Friday from 11:00 to 17:00 and on Saturday and Sunday, from 11:00 to 18:00. Info. Tel.: 01 34 80 63 22.

Bijoux Romantiques - were made in the time of George Sand, which was considered romantic. For this reason this exhibition of decorative jewelry featuring more than 200 pieces - some from the Musée des Arts Décoratifs - will be taking place from Wednesday, 3. May until 1. October, at the Musée de la Vie Romantique. In the Hôtel Scheffer-Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Blanche or Pigalle. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Foire de Paris 2000 - seems to have everything except this name, but it seems to be the same jumbo home affairs exhibition as in past years. Starting on Wednesday, 26. April and continuing until Monday, 8. May. I still say it's the Foire de Paris. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles.

Musicora Musicmania - is another annual exhibition, but about music and everything that goes with it. Now under a 'new' label, it has moved out to the Grand Halle at La Villette, to be close to Paris' museum of music. From Friday, 28. April until Tuesday, 3. May. Organizer's Info. Tel.: 01 49 53 27 00.

Meeting Ferté 2000 - is yet another annual exhibition and flying show, with real airplanes - some of which are really old. This is the airplane nut's airshow. The two-day 'meeting' is out of town, but not far away at the Aérodrome at Cerny-La Ferté-Alais, in Essonne. Dates are Saturday and Sunday, 24. and 25. June.

Brassaï / Picasso - Beginning in 1933, Brassaï photographed Picasso's sculptures, and all of the original prints were acquired by the Musée Picasso. 150 of them are on display, including some experimental' grattages' by Brassaï. Surrealistic! Except Mondays, daily from 9:30 to 18:00. On Thursdays until 20:00. Until Monday, 1. May. Musée Picasso, Hôtel Salé, 5. Rue Thorigny, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Filles-du-Calvaire. Info. Tel.: 01 42 71 25 21.

2000 Nains à Bagatelle - with a bagatelle of 2000 garden dwarfs, zwergs, nains. For their first real exhibition in France, this is not all kitsch - earlyposter: 12th foire livre ancien zwergs were modelled after court entertainers, and even earlier dwarfs date to antiquity. See the recent feature. Except Tuesdays, open daily from 11:00 to 18:00. Until Sunday, 23. July. Bagatelle, Route de Neuilly, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métro: Pont de Neuilly, or bus 43. Park entry: 10 francs.

Makishi - In a spectacular show, masked dancers from Tshokwe, Luvale, Ngandela in Angola, from Zimbabwe, Zambia and from the south of the Congo, stage a return visit to the Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, within the framework of the 4th Festival de l'Imaginaire - co-organized with the Maison des Cultures du Monde. The exhibition continues until Monday, 26. June. Except Tuesdays, daily from 10:00 to 17:30. Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, 293. Avenue Daumesnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée. Info. Tel.: 01 43 46 51 61.

Les Esprits, l'Or et le Chamane - Gold had no monetary value to the original Americans, who used it for decorations. For the first time in France, 300 of the best examples from the Bogota's Museo del Oro show how the Americans saw death and the destiny of souls. Until Monday, 10. July. Reservations required from 10:00 to 13:00, come as you are from 13:00 to 20:00. Except Tuesdays, open daily and on Wednesdays until 22:00. Closed 1. May. Clemenceau entry, Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

L'Empire du Temps - from its own collections, the Louvre presents the legends of time, from antiquity to Christian and western eras. Also suggested is how to use a museum to kill time. Part of the 'Mission 2000 In France' program. Continues until Monday, 10. July. Open daily except Tuesdays; from 9:00 to 17:45; until 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. The Louvre, Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Louvre-Palais Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

1900 - The last turn of the century lasted from 1895 until 1905 and I expect ours will go on for another five years too. One hundred years ago Europe was booming along industrially, and art was booming too, and plants were an inspiration.

This exhibition of things '1900' is like looking in your great-grandparent's attic; all of it too 'Mucha.' A must-see. Until Monday, 26. June. Open daily except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 20:00, on Thursday until 22:00. Morning entries by reservation; after 13:00, at the door. Closed Monday, 1. May. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général-Eisenhower, Square Jean-Perrin, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 10.

Droit de Cité Pour la Presse - is subtitled 'Liberté à la Une' - Freedom for the Front Page. This is an exhibition entirely devoted to the idea of the right to access information and freedom of expressing it. Historically it passes from Théophraste Renaudot's 'La Gazette' to the Internet of our times. Until Monday, 15. May, at the Palais-Brongniart, which is also known as the Bourse de Paris. Daily from 10:00 to 19:00. Métro: Bourse. No entry charge. Conferences and hands-on demos. Featured in Metropole a few weeks ago.

Musée des Arts et Métiers - After ten years of being mostly closed and aboutposter: grande gal de l'evolution four years of being all closed, a major Paris museum has reopened. It is full of the tools and machines - many original - that helped make our modern world. A report about my visit to it is featured in last week's issue.

Musée des Arts et Métiers, 60. Rue Réaumur, Paris 3. Métro: Arts et Métiers. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00; until 21:00 on Thursdays. Entry: 35 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 82 20.

Portrait of Mexico - as part of the '2000 In Paris' salute to the new world of the Americas, a film history of Mexico is a current attraction at the Forum des Images-Vidéothèque. This is in the Forum des Halles, by the Porte Saint-Eustache entry, Paris 1. Info. Tel.: 01 44 76 62 00.

Trésors des Arts Asiatiques - is from the collection of Mr and Mrs John D. Rockerfeller III, which is now managed by the Asia Society. This show features 81 major pieces from the entire collection, and comes to Paris after being shown in Melbourne, Sydney and Shanghai. This show continues until Sunday, 14. May. It can be seen daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40, at the Musée Cernuschi, 7. Avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Métro: Monceau or Villiers. Info. Tel.: 01 45 63 50 75.

Mutations/Mode 1960/2000 - is an exhibition that takes a look at how fashion has evolved in the last 40 years, with a special look at the textiles themselves and the industry that makes clothing. Until Sunday, 30. July; daily except Mondays and certain holidays; from 10:00 to 18:00. Musée Galliera, 10. Avenue Pierre-1er-de-Serbie, Paris 8. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. Info. Tel.: 01 47 20 85 23.

L'Empire du Temps - is an exhibition about the legends of time, the chaos of the origins of our grand myths, from antiquity upwards through time towards us. It also asks questions about the relationships between art and time. From the Louvre's own collection plus pieces from the Musée d'Orsay. Until Monday, 10. July. Except Tuesdays, daily from 9:00 to 17:45; to 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. At the Musée du Louvre, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

Calligraphy & Engraving - Two other temporary exhibition at the Louvre are worth your time. 'Calligraphes Ottomanes' from Sakip Sabanci's collection are on view until Monday, 29. May. From the collection of Edmond de Rothschild, 90 engravings plus some drawings from the Custodia Foundation, form the exhibition titled 'Rembrandt, Gravures et Dessins;' on view until Monday, 19. June. Except Tuesdays, daily from 9:00 to 17:45; to 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. At the Musée du Louvre, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

Haiti - Anges et Démons - plus voodoo graffiti, Holy Sun, metal Ogou, and contemporary 'magic' - in 300 pieces done between 1945 and today. 'Magic painting,' accordingbrochure: musee des annees 30 to André Malraux. Until Friday, 30. June; from 10:00 to 19:00, daily. At the Halle Saint-Pierre, 2. Rue Ronsard, Paris 18. Métro Anvers. Info. Tel.: 01 42 58 72 89.

Les Peintures de L'Ame - assembles 40 artists who looked into their souls and put what they saw into their works. From Gustave Moreau, to Camille Claudel, to Charles-Marie Dulac. Nickname: 'idealistic symbolism.' Until Sunday, 25. June; daily except Mondays from 11:30 to 18:30. At the Pavillon des Arts, Les Halles, Porte Rambuteau, Terrasse Lautréamont, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet or Les Halles. Info. Tel.: 01 42 33 82 50.

Courbet et la Commune - Seven years after being at the summit of his fame, Courbet died forgotten in Switzerland. His mistake - being on the anti-Napoleonic side during the Commune of 1870. This exhibition shows his work done in prison and in exile. Until Sunday, 11. June. Tuesday and Wednesday, from 10:00 to 18:00; Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 to 18:00. Musée d'Orsay, Quai Anatole France, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER 'C' Orsay.Info. Tel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Marianne et les Révolutionaires - is a sculpted group by Ousmane Sow, which is accompanied by a film by Béatrice Soulé. This continues until Monday, 26. June. Except Tuesdays, daily from 10:00 to 17:30. At the Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, 293. Avenue Daumesnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée. Info. Tel.: 01 43 46 51 61.

L'Epopée des Heike - is something not to miss. History in the form of 250 sculptures of exquisite paper, carefully folded by hand. Until Saturday, 13. May; Tuesday to Saturday, from 12:00 to 19:00 and on Thursdays until 20:00. On display now at the Maison de la Culture du Japon, 101. Quai Branly, Paris 15. Métro: Bir-Hakeim. Info. Tel.: 01 44 37 95 00.

Heloisa Nouvaes - is a retrospective of the works of the Brazilian artist Heloisa Nouvaes' fantastic universe; imaginative and harmonious. From Monday to Friday, from 11:00 to 19:00. At the Maison de l'Amérique Latine, 217. Boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino.

The Musée de la Poupée - the Paris' doll museum has two temporary exhibitions of dolls coming soon. One will show communion and marriage costumes. This continues until Monday, 12. June. 'Gene' is another doll, younger and bigger than Barbie, based on Gene Tierney or Greta Garbo. 'Gene à Paris' will feature 50 dolls in an exhibition, which ends on Sunday, 4. June.

Musée de la Poupée, Impasse Berthaud, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. Except Monday, open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. Boutique next door. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Les Grands Boulevards - are getting a constant drumroll these days and now an exhibition too. Fromposter: les canotage a chatou Monday to Friday; from 12:00 to 18:00. Until Friday, 28. April, at the Mairie of the 9th arrondissement, 6. Rue Drouot, Paris 9. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot.

Zingg - died in 1942 and for the first time this painter's sketches and designs are being shown to the public. See the feature in Metropole. Until Friday, 21. April; from Tuesday to Friday, from 12:30 to 18:30, and by rendez-vous. At L'Atelier An. Girard, 7. Rue Campagne Première, Paris 14. Info. Tel.: 01 43 22 01 16.

Le Crépuscule des Dinosaures - is some to scare adults with, but kids will love it. This is a big show, with possibly big lineups, so make your plans carefully. Until Sunday, 14. May. At the Palais de la Découverte, Avenue Franklin-Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: same name. Info. Tel.: 01 56 43 20 21.

Lasar Segall - the retrospective has been put together by the Laser Segall Museum of Sao Paulo, the Jewish Museum of New York and the Smart Museum of Chicago. Little-known in France despite a four-year period in Paris and a retrospective in 1959, Segall spent most of his life in Brazil. Until Sunday, 14. May, at the Musée d'Art et Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 86 53.

Vaux Le Vicomte - is supposed to have inspired Versailles, but unlike Versailles escaped the Révolution and remains in private hands. Built in 1661; it looks brand-new. Nicolas Fouquet had it built, but big Louis got jealous of its splendor and locked the poor guy up for life. Open from 10:00 to 18:00. Check the Vaux Le Vicomte Web site for transport details. Info. Tel.: 01 64 14 41 90.

Paris' Museums Online - is not the official name for the new Web site that has been launched, to present Paris' own 15 museums.

Maison de Balzac - on account of storm damage, this site is closed. Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Info. Tel.: 01 55 74 41 80.


Douglas Gordon - has played for 10 years with time and memory, with the aid of moving films; but this exhibition features older works as well as newer ones. Until Sunday, 30. April, daily except Mondays; from 10:00 to 17:40; Sundays maybe until 19:00. Musée d'Art Moderne,11. Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Alma-Marceau or Iéna. Info. Tel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Musée Bouchard - here I am mentioning a sculptor whose work I've never seen and who died in 1960. 'Bouchard et la Bourgogne' runs until 13. September. Open from Wednesday to Saturday, from 14:00 to 19:00. At the Musée Bouchard, 25. Rue de l'Yvette, Paris 16. Métro: Jasmin. Info. Tel.: 01 46 47 63 46.

Prix Bourdelle 2000 - has been awarded to Vincent Péraro, for some of his airy pieces made out of cement. Better go and see. Until Sunday, 30. July; daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Bourdelle, 18. Rue Antoine-Bourdelle, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. Info. Tel.: 01 49 54 73 73.

Arpad Szenes - returns for another retrospective, this time in the Salle Saint-Jean, in the Hôtel de Ville. Another European artist who washed up in Paris in the '20's, mixed into Montparnasse with success, but went to Brazil during the war. He returned to Paris in 1947, bringing some sunlight back. Until Sunday, 17. June; except Mondays, from 11:00 to 19:00. Salle Saint-Jean, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. No entry charge. Info. Tel.: 01 42 76 51 53.

The Centre Georges Pompidou - aka 'Beaubourg,' is again open to the public and the public, deprived of its cultural factory is turning up in droves - just like it used to. 'Stars au Féminin' features 150 films, until 2. October. Seel films and plastic works by Len Lye until Sunday, 30. April. For the rest of the program, the fallback is Beaubourg's Web site.

Cornélia Marjolin Scheffer - died just over 100 years ago, but was the daughter of Ary Scheffer and a painter herself. She turned her house into a 'salon' and it became the Musée de la Vie Romantique. This special exhibition is in addition to the permanent collection, and continues until Thursday, 27. July. At 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Magnum - on the morning of the 21st century, some 400 photos present a 'state of the world,' as recorded by 56 of Magnum's photographers. Until Sunday, 7. May. In the Galeries Mansart and Mazarine, in the Bibliothèque Nationale, 58. Rue Richelieu, Paris 2. Métro: Bourse. Info. Tel.: 01 53 79 59 59.

La Commune Photographie - represents the first uprising in Paris to be photographed. Candid images, photos taken after events, photo-montages and faked photos, for propaganda purposes. Until Sunday, 11. June. Tuesday and Wednesday, from 10:00 to 18:00; Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 to 18:00. Musée d'Orsay, Quai Anatole France, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER 'C' Orsay.Info. Tel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Next Mois de la Photo - The 'Month of the Photo,' starts in November, so in the interval, check out the Maison Européenne de la Photo, 5-7. rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 75 07.

Operissima - part one is a live 'best of' the 19th century Italian opera, with the Ignacio Jarquin Company and the Polyphorum Symphony Orchestra; and part two is a whole opera, 'Cavalleria Rusticana.' Every Sunday at 16:00 at the Bataclan, 50. Boulevard Voltaire, Paris 11. Métro: Oberkampf or Saint-Amboise. Info. Tel.: 01 43 14 35 35.

Faux Frère(s) - is a caustic comedy about two guys who haven't seen each other for 15 years, and are wondering why they're playing in this piece until Saturday, 13. May. Featuring Pierre-Olivier Scotto and Thierry Beccaro; directed by Martine Feldman. Music: Les Beatles. At Kiron Espace, 10. Rue La Vacquerie, Paris 11. Métro: Voltaire. Info. Tel.: 01 44 64 11 50.

Le Banquet de la Sainte Cécile - has played 500 times in the provinces, but I still don't know what it's about - except it features Jean-Pierre Bodin, who I don't know either. Until Monday, 8. May. Most nights at 21:00, Saturday and Sunday at 16:00; no shows Tuesday and Wednesday. At L'Européen, 5. Rue Biot, Paris 17. Métro: Place de Clichy. Info. Tel.: 01 43 87 97 13.

Glaz'Art - now it's nearly time to check out the May program at this pop-cultural centre for concerts, multimedia and other acts. Glaz'Art, 7 to 15. Avenue de la Porte de la Villette, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. Info. Tel.: 01 40 36 55 65.

Arts du Spectacle - this section of the Bibliothèque Nationale began in 1920 with Auguste Rondel's collection, and now numbers three million documents concerning the theatre, circus, music hall, and cinema. This department of the BNF isposter: expo la seine at paris located at the Bibliothèque de l'Arsenal, 1. Rue de Sully, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland. Hours are Monday to Friday, from 10:00 to 18:00 and from 10:00 to 17:00 on Saturday. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 25 25.

Théâtre Châtelet Reopens - completely renovated, this large theatre belonging to the city has programmed 210 performances and has 276,297 seats for sale - less those already sold - for the 1999-2000 season. Two pieces by Gluck started off Châtelet's new life. Info. Tel.: 01 40 28 28 00.

See the item for 'La Seine et Paris' above.

Salut les Artistes! - announces the first half of Chaillot's 2000 season - its 80th. If you want to be up-to-date, give the Web site of the Théâtre National de Chaillot a hit or call the Info. Tel.: 01 53 65 30 00.

Oser Le Savoir - which translates as 'Dare to Know,' features '10 keys to the future' which will be presented with exhibitions and debates, from February until the end of the year. This takes place, in cooperation with the CNRS, at the Cité des Sciences & de l'Industrie at La Villette. 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. Info. Tel.: 0140 05 80 00.

Monnaies, Médailles, Antiques - are part of the permanent collection, which have their own department; which also includes a library of 60,000 volumes, at the Bibliothèque Nationale de France. The museum of this department is open to the public from Monday to Friday, from 13:00 to 17:45; on Saturday from 13:00 to 16:45 and on Sunday from 12:00 to 18:00. Groups need reservations. BNF, 58. Rue de Richelieu, Paris 2. Métro: Bourse. Info. Tel.: 01 47 03 83 40.

L'Art du Billet, 1800 - 2000 - if you like money even if it's 200 years old - or brand-new, see this exhibition of the collection of the Banque de France. Also see the concurrent exhibition featuring Augustin Dupré, one of the chief engravers. Until Sunday, 11. June; from 10:00 to 17:40; at the Musée Carnavalet - Historie de Paris, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin-Vert. Info. Tel.: 01 44 59 58 58.

'Pas Si Bêtes! 1000 Cerveaux, 1000 Mondes' - While Paris' Grande Galerie de l'Evolution du Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle is for discovering evolution, there is also an exhibition about the possible interactivity between brains called 1000 Cerveaux - for short - which will be online until 10. July 2000. The museum is in the Jardin des Plantes, with its entry at 36. Rue Geoffrey Saint-Hillaire, Paris 5. Métro: Place Monge is closest.

Natures En Tête - shows other ways of looking at nature, and includes some animations - also with a theatre for children, and debates. Until Monday, 22. May, in the Galerie de Botanique, at the Jardin des Plantes, 18. Rue Buffon, Paris 5. Métro; Jussieu, Gare d'Austerlitz or Censier-Daubenton. This is nearly in the same location as the above item.

The BnF's Gallica 2000 - Free of charge, France's Bibliothèque Nationale has cranked up its Gallica server to offer more than 35,000 titles - either for consulting online or for download as PDF files. Most of these titles are 19th century texts and few are literature - but this will change over time. After all its stops and starts, the BnF is now 'open to the world.'

Jean-Sans-Peur's Tower - read Metropole's feature then go and see the decor in the unusual stairway. at 20. Rue Etienne Marcel, Paris 2. Métro: Etienne Marcel. Info. Tel.: 01 42 61 55 02.

Etienne-Jules Marey - was an all-round scientist during the last part of the 19th century and the Espace Electra has teamed up with the Cinémathèque Français to put on an exhibition, tracing Marey's history. At the Espace Electra, 6. Rue Récamier, Paris 7. Open daily except Monday, from 12:00 to 19:00. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone. Info. Tel.: 01 53 63 23 45.

The Cinémathèque Française - has a non-stop program of rare film projections. The film museum operates in two locations: at the Palais de Chaillot, garden entry; and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Auto-Info Tel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

Rent-a-Bike - details about the RATP's 'Roue Libre' and other bike rental possibilities are included in a 'Scene' column, published last year.

Cyclotourists - should also check out the 'The Best Biking Guide to Paris And Day Trips Outside Paris,' which is by Rose Burke who has personally tested everything for you, both downhill and uphill. You have to pedal yourself though.

Foire du Trône - one of Paris' annual fun fairs, with rides, cotton-candy, popcorn, and noise, with bumper-cars and everything else that'll have you upsidedown and the change falling out of your pockets. Until Monday, 8. May. From Monday to Thursday, 12:00 to midnight; Friday, Saturday and holidays eves, from 12:00 to 01:00. Pélouse de Reuilly, Paris 12. Métro: Porte-Dorée or Porte-de-Charenton. No entry charge.

Reverse Roller Coaster - You can take a ride on what appears to be a roller coaster, at Disneyland. Six years in the making, six months to put together, a crew of 60; for 'Indiana Jones,' and 110 seconds of backwards thrills. Maybe it's a time machine? In French it is called the 'Montagnes Russes' and they were a big hit 100 years ago. At Disneyland Paris, Marne-la-Vallée. RER line 'A4.'

Paris' Balloon - offers Paris views from a high place, without need of an elevator. Again in the air after a tough winter, you should call first to find out if it is a balloon day. For adults, 66 francs and 33 for kids. At the Parc André Citroën, Paris 15. Métro: Ballard. Info. Tel.: 01 44 26 20 01.

The RATP's 'Cyberdeck' - The RATP has installed four Internet terminals in their Port Royal RER 'B' station. These offer free access and unlimited online time. The 'Cyberdeck' units are equipped with touch-screens instead of 'mice' and they have French keyboard layouts, so these are two featuresphoto: fond cartier that take a bit of getting used to. The RATP plans to install the stand-up 'Net centres at Denfert-Rochereau, Luxembourg and Châtelet-Les Halles; all on the same RER line 'B.'

The Fondation Cartier's current exhibition features hair. On the Boulevard Raspail, Paris 14.

Cyberposte - France's La Poste has 1000 post offices throughout France with Internet connections, possibly making La Poste the world biggest cybercafé without any café. All you do is buy a rechargeable Cyberposte card for 50 francs, which is good for one hour of network time. You can also get a personal email account.

Also see 'La Poste's' services for philatelists. Or write to Service Philatélique de La Poste, 18. Rue François-Bonvin, 75758 Paris, Cedex 15. France

Free Entries - are offered to all on Sunday mornings, from 10:00 to 13:00, at some of Paris' own museums. This involves up to 15 different places, so I'm not going to list them all here. When I write 'places' it is because the list includes the archeological crypt under the parvis in front of Notre Dame - of which I know nothing - and the Maison de Balzac, which is currently closed with storm damage.

There are exceptions to the free entry; one is the Catacombs, at Denfert-Rochereau, possibly because they are right next door to me - but most likely because they don't open until the afternoon. Except for bigger shows in the Musée du Petit Palais, most of Paris' own museums have modest entry charges anyway.

Guided Visits - Paris Gardens - the city has an annual program of guided visits to its gardens - also for the blind and the deaf; which include conferences, demonstrations of gardening and explanations about the life of plants. There is a brochure with more details available, and there is also the city's Web site. Info. Tel.: 01 40 71 75 60.

Tickets:Théâtre On Line - presents the majority of theatre performances in Paris and the Ile-de-France, with news of new shows, criticism, and has a searchable database.

Tickets: www.fnac.com - France's giant media and cultural retailer also has its 'ticket' Web site, which has just been presented with a new face-lift, which is called a 're-loook.'

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