Short-term 'Paris Beach'

photo: to come

On a nice afternoon, Paris shows its colors.

Monet At Marmottan

Paris:- Saturday, 29. April 2000:- One half of my big dream for Paris has come true. Until Monday, 8. May, two beaches have been installed beside the Seine.

The half that hasn't happened - there are no palm trees. The beaches are at the waterside of the Parc André Citroen, at the Port de Javel - there must be a better name for this - 'Bleach Beach!' - and the other is at the Port de Bercy. Between the two, they have 400 tons of fine Yvelines sand.

Cement manufacturers have decided some judiciously-placed sand will do wonders for their 'concrete-total' image. But first, you need to tour their exhibits before putting on your sunglasses. No entry charge; open from 10:00 to 18:00.

Next weekend there will also be free Seine cruises, starting from both of these ports. These require reservations, so get to the beaches early.



The items below are not necessarily 'new;' but they open this week's column.

Ozawa at the Champ de Mars - Seiji Ozawa takes over half a huge space to wave his magic baton for an evening's free concert featuring the Boston Symphony and the Orchestra de Paris, with a choir of a 1000 local kids who sing like angels. This should be a 'Year 2000' highlight. On Friday, 5. May. Best métro: Ecole Militaire - with the band-shell placed at the Champ de Mars mid-point, facing the Ecole Militaire.

Monet At Marmottan - for the first time in Paris, the Musée Marmottan presents the complete collection of paintings by Claude Monet. A special section is set aside for the Giverny paintings. Degas, Caillebotte, Sisley and Gauguin are also present, but this is nearly a mono-Monet show. Until 31. December; from 10:00 to 17:00, except Mondays. Musée Marmottan, 2. Rue Louis-Boilly, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette. Info. Tel.: 01 42 24 07 02

Coiffures Africains - is not the name of this photo exhibition by the Nigerian photographer Ojeikere who treats hair-dos as sculpture. Except Mondays, from 12:00 to 20:00; until Sunday, 28. May. At the Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain, 261. Boulevard Raspail, Paris 14. Métro: Raspail. Info. Tel.: 01 42 18 56 51.

French Can-Can - features 30 saucy dancers, 50 flimsy costumes, 10 solid musicians, four strong singers, Jacques Offenbach's music and the Folies Bergère. All of this spells 'Can-Can.' At the Folies Bergère, 32. Rue Richer, Paris 9. Métro: Cadet or Montmartre-Grand Boulevards. Info. Tel.: 01 44 79 98 98.

Antique Métro - for the métro's 100th anniversary, the RATP has decided to re-run the old red and green 'Sprague' wagons that disappeared from service 20 years ago. brochure: latitudes brasil, villetteThe line chosen for this is the six, between Etoile and Nation, which is largely elevated and crosses the Seine twice. Photo-op stops are made on the Bir-Hakeim and Bercy bridges. Reckon on 80 minutes for the round-trip. The RATP will be running these trains on Sundays - 14 and 18. May; 18. June; 2, 16, and 30. July; and the 13 and 27. August. The actual anniversary run will be on Wednesday, 19. July. Reservations necessary. Info. Tel.: 01 44 68 38 12.

Catherine's Bijoux - in 1787 Catherine II of Russia acquired the Orléans' collection of 1500 precious stones. Now 225 of these are on display, on a loan from the Hermitage, to the Mairie of the 5th. Daily, from 10:45 to 17:45, on Sundays and holidays from 14:00 to 18:45; until Sunday, 28. May. Mairie of the 5th arrondissement, Place du Panthéon, Paris 5. Métro: RER Luxembourg. Info. Tel.: 01 56 81 75 05.

Fancy Fans - just because I've never noticed the Fan Museum - La Musée de l'Eventail - doesn't mean that opera decorator Yvonne Sassinot de Nesle hasn't made a series of elaborate fans for it. On show until Wednesday, 19. May. From Monday to Friday, from 14:00 to 19:00. At 2. Boulevard de Strasbourg, Paris 10. Métro: Strasbourg-St-Denis. Info. Tel.: 01 42 08 90 20.

Salon de la Musique - ends on Wednesday, but the Galleries Lafayette's 'festival' continues. Their Boulevard Haussmann location has an accordion festival that continues until Saturday, 6. May; in the Galeries Lafayette's 'Espace Livres-Disques' on the first floor. Meanwhile, the 'Salon de la Musique' is at the Grand Halle at La Villette, close to Paris' museum of music. From 10:00 to 19:30 on Tuesday; until 18:00 on Wednesday. Entry: 50 francs; under 12, free. Organizer's Info. Tel.: 01 49 53 27 00.

Foire de Paris 2000 - seems to have everything except this name, but it is the same jumbo home affairs exhibition as in past years; with its fairs inside fairs. Continues until Monday, 8. May. I still say it's the Foire de Paris. Expect huge crowds. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles.

Gong - after the great success of their new album, 'Zero to Infinity,' the cosmic hippies will be giving some sort of 32nd anniversary concert, at the Cigale on Friday, 4. May at 19:30 - which is not past their bedtimes. Tickets available at the usual agencies. Info. Tel.: 01 53 62 83 62.

This item closes the opening 'new' events for this week. You will find some other new items below. Again, lack of time has not permitted me to form a text to go with each of the images - but they do represent current events in Paris.

20 Years of Nakedness In Montparnasse - shows that persistence pays off. The first invitation to an exhibition the poster: 20 ans nus, montparnasseat 'Chemin du Montparnasse' that comes to me without pulling teeth, is titled 'Avoir 20 Ans à Montparnasse, Nus.' This features Hélène Tilman and Gérard Fromanger, and runs from Wednesday to Sunday, from 13:00 to 19:00; from Friday, 5. May until Monday, 12. June. At 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. Info. Tel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

Montparnasse 2000 - as if Montparnasse is not sexy enough, Lucile calls me up to say that Montparnasse has gathered the 14th, 15th and 16th arrondissements together, to have a month's worth of artists' open doors throughout the month of May. The program is still being set, but she said La Coupole would be part of it. If lucky, I'll get more details at the vernissage for the 'Nus' next Thursday - to be included here next week.

Latitudes Villette / Brasil - Brazilian Percussion comes from Salvador in the form of the 6th PercPan, which blew away São Paulo earlier this year. Coming to Paris for three days in May with Naná Vasconcelos and Gilberto Gil, be sure to get ready for the World Percussion Panorama.

However a planned encore happens the following weekend, with another 150 drummers from the Portela Samba School, also playing outside. Other performances are inside and for these there are two sorts of tickets - one for all of an evening's concerts for 160 francs, or 120 francs for either the Grande Halle or the Cité de la Musique. At La Villette on Saturday, Sunday and Monday; 27, 28 and 29. May - and the following weekend of 2, 3 and 4. June. The Saturday show features 150 drummers, outside. The music starts at 19:00; or at 15:30 on Sundays. Métro: Porte de Pantin. Info. Tel.: 01 44 84 44 84.

Luz Casal - will be giving a concert at the Olympia in Paris on Thursday, 18. May. Tickets available at the usual agencies. Info. Tel.: 01 47 42 25 49.

Bijoux Romantiques - were made in the time of George Sand, which are considered romantic. For this reason this exhibition of decorative jewelry featuring more than 200 pieces - some from the Musée des Arts Décoratifs - will be taking place from Wednesday, 3. May until 1. October, at the Musée de la Vie Romantique. In the Hôtel Scheffer-Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Blanche or Pigalle. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Fête du Pain 2000 - Under two grand and 15 smaller tents set up in front of Paris' Hôtel be Ville, everybody who works in the bread part of the European food-chain will be showing off their stuff, from Saturday, 13. May until Tuesday, 16. May. There will be some 'animations' with this, but I don't see anything about free bread. Métro: Hôtel de Ville.

Le Bourget Air Show - the big bi-annual showcase for military aircraft stunts, but civil aviation is represented too. At the airport at Le Bourget, from Thursday, 18. May until Sunday, 21. May. Métro: RER 'B.' Organized by Reed-OIP, which may have information at Info. Tel.: 01 41 90 47 10 too.

Meeting Ferté 2000 - is yet another annual exhibition and flying show, with real airplanes - some of which are really old. This is the airplane nut's airshow. The two-day 'meeting' is out of town, but not far away at the Aérodrome at Cerny-La Ferté-Alais, in Essonne. Dates are Saturday and Sunday, 24. and 25. June.

Soleils Mexicains - is a big show of 250 pieces that continues until 13. August. Featuring pre-Columbian works, up to the major talents of the 20th century. This is part of the '2000 In Paris' homage to the Americas. At the Petit Palais, Avenue du Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. Except Monday, open from 10:00 to 17:40; to 20:00 on Thursdays. Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

L'Arts d'Afrique, d'Asie, d'Océanie et des Amériques - this is the first exhibition of the Quai Branly museum that doesn't exist yet, so it is housed in the newly re-opened Pavillon des Sessions in the Louvre. The 'artworks' featured are called 'primitive' by some, but the French have coined a new phrase; 'Arts Premiers.' Posters around town show this to be amazing stuff. The entry to the Louvre's new section is located to the south of the Carrousel Arch. Follow the signs to the Porte des Lions. Info. Tel.: 01 40 30 51 51.

Brassaï - for the first time in France, Brassaï gets a big retrospective, featuring over 400 works, including photographs, sculptures, designs - some ofposter: l'affaire, thr nanterre which are being shown here for the first time. This major exhibition continues until Monday, 26. June; from 11:00 to 21:00, daily except Tuesdays. At the Centre Cultural Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau.

2000 Nains à Bagatelle - with a bagatelle of 2000 garden dwarfs, zwergs, nains. For their first real exhibition in France, this is not all kitsch - early zwergs were modelled after court entertainers, and even earlier dwarfs date to antiquity. See the recent feature. Except Tuesdays, open daily from 11:00 to 18:00. Until Sunday, 23. July. Bagatelle, Route de Neuilly, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métro: Pont de Neuilly, or bus 43. Park entry: 10 francs.

Makishi - In a spectacular show, masked dancers from Tshokwe, Luvale, Ngandela in Angola, from Zimbabwe, Zambia and from the south of the Congo, stage a return visit to the Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, within the framework of the 4th Festival de l'Imaginaire - co-organized with the Maison des Cultures du Monde. The exhibition continues until Monday, 26. June. Except Tuesdays, daily from 10:00 to 17:30. Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, 293. Avenue Daumesnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée. Info. Tel.: 01 43 46 51 61.

Les Esprits, l'Or et le Chamane - Gold had no monetary value to the original Americans, who used it for decorations. For the first time in France, 300 of the best examples from the Bogota's Museo del Oro show how the Americans saw death and the destiny of souls. Until Monday, 10. July. Reservations required from 10:00 to 13:00, come as you are from 13:00 to 20:00. Except Tuesdays, open daily and on Wednesdays until 22:00. Closed 1. May. Clemenceau entry, Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

L'Empire du Temps - from its own collections, the Louvre presents the legends of time, from antiquity to Christian and western eras. Also suggested is how to use a museum to kill time. Part of the 'Mission 2000 In France' program. Continues until Monday, 10. July. Open daily except Tuesdays; from 9:00 to 17:45; until 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. The Louvre, Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Louvre-Palais Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

1900 - The last turn of the century lasted from 1895 until 1905 and I expect ours will go on for another five years too. One hundred years ago Europe was booming along industrially, and art was booming too, and plants were an inspiration.

This exhibition of things '1900' is like looking in your great-grandparent's 'jungle' attic; all of it too 'Mucha.' Until Monday, 26. June. Open daily except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 20:00, on Thursday until 22:00. Morning entries by reservation; after 13:00, at the door. Closed Monday, 1. May. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général-Eisenhower, Square Jean-Perrin, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 10.

Droit de Cité Pour la Presse - is subtitled 'Liberté à la Une' - Freedom for the Front Page. This is an exhibition entirely devoted to the idea of the right to access informationposter: jefira, musique mediterranee and freedom of expressing it. Historically it passes from Théophraste Renaudot's 'La Gazette' to the Internet of our times. Until Monday, 15. May, at the Palais-Brongniart, which is also known as the Bourse de Paris. Daily from 10:00 to 19:00. Métro: Bourse. No entry charge. Conferences and hands-on demos. Featured in Metropole a few weeks ago.

Musée des Arts et Métiers - After ten years of being mostly closed and about four years of being all closed, a major Paris museum has reopened. It is full of the tools and machines - many original - that helped make our modern world. A report about my visit to it is featured in last week's issue.

Musée des Arts et Métiers, 60. Rue Réaumur, Paris 3. Métro: Arts et Métiers. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00; until 21:00 on Thursdays. Entry: 35 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 82 20.

Portrait of Mexico - as part of the '2000 In Paris' salute to the new world of the Americas, a film history of Mexico is a current attraction at the Forum des Images-Vidéothèque. This is in the Forum des Halles, by the Porte Saint-Eustache entry, Paris 1. Info. Tel.: 01 44 76 62 00.

Lumière aux Cordeliers - eight well-known artists who use light, but not always with electricity, will be having their works shown in the Couvent des Cordeliers. Until Sunday, 4. June. Open from Tuesday to Sunday; from 11:00 to 19:00. Couvent des Cordeliers, 15. Rue de l'Ecole de Médecine, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon. Info. Tel.: 01

James Turrell - concurrently with the exhibition at the Couvent des Cordeliers, the Espace Electra will be featuring James Turrell, who plays with light and space. Until Tuesday, 18. July. This event also marks the Espace Electra's 10th anniversary. At 6. Rue Récamier, Paris 7. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone. Info. Tel.: 01 53 63 23 45.

La Seine et Paris - is an exceptional exhibition because it brings together many items from many sources, to treat two subjects that are inseparable. The Seine has fed Paris and the river continues to play its important role - while Parisians and visitors get to admire it. Until Friday, 19. May, this exhibition can be found in the Mairie of the 1st arrondissement, at 4. Place du Louvre. Métro: Louvre-Rivoli. Then from Tuesday, 30. May until Friday, 7. July it will be in the Mairie of the 4th arrondissement, at the Place Baudoyer. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. In both locations, from 12:00 to 18:00; Mondays to Friday.

Trésors des Arts Asiatiques - is from the collection of Mr and Mrs John D. Rockerfeller III, which is now managed by the Asia Society. This show features 81 major pieces from the entire collection, and comes to Paris after being shown in Melbourne, Sydney and Shanghai. This show continues until Sunday, 14. May. It can be seen daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40, at the Musée Cernuschi, 7. Avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Métro: Monceau or Villiers. Info. Tel.: 01 45 63 50 75.

Mutations/Mode 1960/2000 - is an exhibition that takes a look at how fashion has evolved in the last 40 years, with a special look poster: la venitienne, thr rond pointat the textiles themselves and the industry that makes clothing. Until Sunday, 30. July; daily except Mondays and certain holidays; from 10:00 to 18:00. Musée Galliera, 10. Avenue Pierre-1er-de-Serbie, Paris 8. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. Info. Tel.: 01 47 20 85 23.

L'Empire du Temps - is an exhibition about the legends of time, the chaos of the origins of our grand myths, from antiquity upwards through time towards us. It also asks questions about the relationships between art and time. From the Louvre's own collection plus pieces from the Musée d'Orsay. Until Monday, 10. July. Except Tuesdays, daily from 9:00 to 17:45; to 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. At the Musée du Louvre, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

Calligraphy & Engraving - two other temporary exhibition at the Louvre are worth your time. 'Calligraphes Ottomanes' from Sakip Sabanci's collection are on view until Monday, 29. May. From the collection of Edmond de Rothschild, 90 engravings plus some drawings from the Custodia Foundation, form the exhibition titled 'Rembrandt, Gravures et Dessins;' on view until Monday, 19. June. Except Tuesdays, daily from 9:00 to 17:45; to 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. At the Musée du Louvre, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

Haiti - Anges et Démons - pls voodoo graffiti, Holy Sun, metal Ogou, and contemporary 'magic' - in 300 pieces done between 1945 and today. 'Magic painting,' according to André Malraux. Until Friday, 30. June; from 10:00 to 19:00, daily. At the Halle Saint-Pierre, 2. Rue Ronsard, Paris 18. Métro Anvers. Info. Tel.: 01 42 58 72 89.


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