In the Place Vendôme...

photo: ile cite, seine, pont neuf

Sitting... until the sun dips into the western ocean.

A Free Show Not to be Missed

Paris:- Saturday, 6. April 2000:- Here it is, the doldrums time of the month, when I am waiting for the Paris magazine with all its new events - which should be available around mid-month.

I forgot about it last month until discovered it stuffed in my mailbox. Normally I waste four trips going to the Mairie to look for it. Then, while doing the column, I found that most of the magazine's 'treasures' were already here.

Not everything is here though. But you are alert and will no doubt remind me of what I don't know. I don't know how you do it, but you do. At least it gives me a clue about what should be here, even if it is after the fact.



The items below are not necessarily 'new;' but they open this week's column.

Place Vendôme - is normally a ritzy, stone desert; but according to the TV-news it is full of a lot of interesting and quite large sculptures. I didn't catch the artist's name but I intend to ask for it - at the reception of the Hotel Ritz if necessary. Open 24 hours a day; seven days a week; but until when? Paris 1. Métro: Opéra.

Alexandre Trauner - "Decors de Trauner, architecture imaginaire, si beaux et si vivants" paraphrased from Jacques Prévert, because I can't make out a couple of his handwritten words. One illustration looks like a London red-brickposter: euro art gym championship street in the rain, and on the back is a photograph looking like a film set modelled on the illustration. From Wednesday, 10. May, until Friday, 7. July. Open from Tuesday to Friday, from 12:30 to 18:30 and by invitation. At L'Atelier An. Girard, 7. Rue Campagne Première, Paris 14. Métro: Vavin or Raspail. Info. Tel/Fax.: 01 43 22 01 16.

Galeries Louise Weiss - is the name I give to the collective set of modern art galleries located in the Rue Louise Weiss. You should go and see 'Le Palais de la Blague' - I'm not kidding! - at the Galerie Jennifer Flay, just for openers. There seem to be more photographic works than usual - neat shots of people killed by their gardens, and so on. From about 11. to 34. Rue Louise Weiss, Paris 13. Métro: Chevaleret. Collectively open from Tuesday to Saturday from 11:00 to 19:00; the current exhibitions continue until Saturday, 10. June.

Paris Jazz Festival - makes its 7th annual appearance at the Parc Floral, continuing from now until Sunday, 30. July. Every Saturday and Sunday at 16:30, at the Parc Floral in the Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Château-de-Vincennes. Entry: 10 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 43 43 92 95.

Fête du Pain 2000 - Under two grand and 15 smaller tents set up in front of Paris' Hôtel be Ville, everybody who works in the bread part of the European food-chain will be showing off their stuff, until Tuesday, 16. May. There will be some 'animations' with this, but I don't see anything about free bread. Métro: Hôtel de Ville.

This item closes the opening 'new' events for this week. You will find some other new items below. Again, lack of time has not permitted me to form a text to go with each of the images - but they do represent current events in Paris.

Old Book Fair - is actually called the '12eme Foire Internationale du Livre Ancien' or 'FILA' for short. This is for serious collectors - one novel, written around 1470, has an estimate of about three million francs for it. The sale part is accompanied by an exhibition that features rare items from the bibliothèque municipale of Versailles. Many of Paris' rare book dealers will be present. Opening day is Thursday, 25. May; hours are 17:00 to 21:00; and from Friday to Sunday are 11:00 to 19:00. At the Maison de la Mutualité, 24. Rue Saint-Victor, Paris 5. Métro: Maubert-Mutualité or Cardinal Lemoine. Info. Tel.: 01 43 29 46 38.

Le Bourget Air Show - the big bi-annual showcase for military aircraft stunts, but civil aviation is represented too. At the airport at Le Bourget, from Thursday, 18. May until Sunday, 21. May. Métro: RER 'B.' Organized by Reed-OIP, which may have information at Info. Tel.: 01 41 90 47 10 too.

Art et Cigare - 50 international artists were asked to light up a Havana and they did so with enthusiasm. Opening on Thursday, 25 May and sharing its vernissageposter: art et cigare, gal flak with 'Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés.' This exhibition continues until Monday, 31. July. Open from Tuesday to Friday, from 11:00 to 13:00 and 14:30 to 19:30; on Saturdays from 11:00 non-stop to 19:30. At the Galerie Flak, 8. Rue des Beaux-Arts, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon, Mabillon or Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Info. Tel.: 01 46 33 77 77.

Poussières d'Etoile & Autres Toiles - means BC. Pierron has included works from previous exhibitions called 'Energies Intersidérales,' 'Les Météores' and 'Paysages Moléculaires' - to continue his fascination with deep space by creating things not normally seen on mere earth. From Tuesday, 16. May until Tuesday, 30. May; daily from 11:00 to 19:00. At the Cloître des Billettes, 24. Rue des Archives, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville or Rambuteau.Info. Tel.: 01

'Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés' - is 'open doors' for a mere 100 art galleries in the Quartier Latin. Thursday, 25. May features the 'vernissages' with a happening and maybe street music, followed by part 2 on Sunday, 28. May, from 14:00 to 19:00. Part one on Thursday starts at 18:00. From Rue Bonaparte to Rue Dauphine; from the Rues de l'Abbaye and Buci, to the Seine. Bridges: Pont des Arts or Pont Neuf. Métro: Odéon, Mabillon or Saint-Germain-des-Prés. For info, try Artnet.

Les Grands Boulevards - are getting some more constant drumroll these days and now another exhibition too. See 'Traditions et Innovations' starting on Friday, 12. May, from Monday to Friday; from 12:00 to 17:45 on weekdays and from 13:45 to 17:45 on weekends. Until Sunday, 30. July, at the Centre Historique des Archives Nationales - Hôtel de Soubise, 60. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot.

Montparnasse 2000 - as if Montparnasse is not sexy enough, Lucile calls me up to say that Montparnasse has gathered the 14th, 15th and 16th arrondissements together, to have a month's worth of artists' open doors throughout the month of May. The program is still being set, but she said La Coupole would be part of it. I was not 'lucky,' and I didn't get more details at the vernissage for the 'Nus' last Thursday.

Latitudes Villette / Brasil - Brazilian Percussion comes from Salvador in the form of the 6th PercPan, which blew away São Pauloposter: grands boulevards earlier this year. Coming to Paris for three days in May with Naná Vasconcelos and Gilberto Gil, be sure to get ready for the World Percussion Panorama.

However a planned encore happens the following weekend, with another 150 drummers from the Portela Samba School, also playing outside. Other performances are inside and for these there are two sorts of tickets -one for all of an evening's concerts for 160 francs, or 120 francs for either the Grande Halle or the Cité de la Musique. At La Villette on Saturday, Sunday and Monday; 27, 28 and 29. May - and the following weekend of 2, 3 and 4. June. The Saturday show features 150 drummers, outside. The music starts at 19:00; or at 15:30 on Sundays. Métro: Porte de Pantin. Info. Tel.: 01 44 84 44 84.

Luz Casal - will be giving a concert at the Olympia in Paris on Thursday, 18. May. Tickets available at the usual agencies. Info. Tel.: 01 47 42 25 49.

Meeting Ferté 2000 - is yet another annual exhibition and flying show, with real airplanes - some of which are really old. This is the airplane nut's airshow. The two-day 'meeting' is out of town, but not far away at the Aérodrome at Cerny-La Ferté-Alais, in Essonne. Dates are Saturday and Sunday, 24. and 25. June.

Monet At Marmottan - for the first time in Paris, the Musée Marmottan presents the complete collection of paintings by Claude Monet. A special section is set aside for the Giverny paintings. Degas, Caillebotte, Sisley and Gauguin are also present, but this is nearly a mono-Monet show. Until 31. December; from 10:00 to 17:00, except Mondays. Musée Marmottan, 2. Rue Louis-Boilly, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette. Info. Tel.: 01 42 24 07 02.

Soleils Mexicains - is a big show of 250 pieces that continues until 13. August. Featuring pre-Columbian works, up to the major talents of the 20th century. This is part of the '2000 In Paris' homage to the Americas. At the Petit Palais, Avenue du Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. Except Monday, open from 10:00 to 17:40; to 20:00 on Thursdays. Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

L'Arts d'Afrique, d'Asie, d'Océanie et des Amériques - this is the first exhibition of the Quai Branly museum that doesn't exist yet, so it is housed in the newly re-opened Pavillon des Sessions in the Louvre. The 'artworks' featured are called 'primitive' by some, but the French have coined a new phrase; 'Arts Premiers.' The entry to the Louvre's new section is located to the south of the Carrousel Arch. Follow the signs to the Porte des Lions. Info. Tel.: 01 40 30 51 51.

2000 Nains à Bagatelle - with a bagatelle of 2000 garden dwarfs, zwergs, nains. For their first real exhibition in France, this is not all kitsch - early zwergs were modelled after court entertainers, and even earlier dwarfs date to antiquity. See the recent feature. Except Tuesdays, open daily from 11:00 to 18:00. Until Sunday, 23. July. Bagatelle, Route de Neuilly, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métro: Pont de Neuilly, or bus 43. Park entry: 10 francs.

Makishi - In a spectacular show, masked dancers from Tshokwe, Luvale, Ngandela in Angola, from Zimbabwe, Zambia and from the south of the Congo, stage a return visit to the Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, within the framework of the 4th Festival de l'Imaginaire - co-organized with the Maison des Cultures du Monde. The exhibition continues until Monday, 26. June. Except Tuesdays, daily from 10:00 to 17:30. Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, 293. Avenue Daumesnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée. Info. Tel.: 01 43 46 51 61.

Les Esprits, l'Or et le Chamane - Gold had no monetary value to the original Americans, who used it for decorations. For the first time in France, 300 of the best examples from the Bogota's Museo del Oro show how the Americans saw death and the destiny of souls. Until Monday, 10. July. Reservations required from 10:00 to 13:00, come as you are from 13:00 to 20:00. Except Tuesdays, open daily and on Wednesdays until 22:00. Closed 1. May. Clemenceau entry, Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

L'Empire du Temps - from its own collections, the Louvre presents the legends of time, from antiquity to Christian and western eras. Also suggested is how to use a museum to kill time. Part of the 'Mission 2000 In France' program. Continues until Monday, 10. July. Open daily except Tuesdays; from 9:00 to 17:45; until 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. Theposter: expo 1900 Louvre, Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Louvre-Palais Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

1900 - The last turn of the century lasted from 1895 until 1905 and I expect ours will go on for another five years too. One hundred years ago Europe was booming along industrially, and art was booming too, and plants were an inspiration.

This exhibition of things '1900' is like looking in your great-grandparent's 'jungle' attic; all of it too 'Mucha.' Until Monday, 26. June. Open daily except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 20:00, on Thursday until 22:00. Morning entries by reservation; after 13:00, at the door. Closed Monday, 1. May. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général-Eisenhower, Square Jean-Perrin, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 10.

Droit de Cité Pour la Presse - is subtitled 'Liberté à la Une' - Freedom for the Front Page. This is an exhibition entirely devoted to the idea of the right to access information and freedom of expressing it. Historically it passes from Théophraste Renaudot's 'La Gazette' to the Internet of our times. Until Monday, 15. May, at the Palais-Brongniart, which is also known as the Bourse de Paris. Daily from 10:00 to 19:00. Métro: Bourse. No entry charge. Conferences and hands-on demos. Featured in Metropole a few weeks ago.

Musée des Arts et Métiers - After ten years of being mostly closed and about four years of being all closed, a major Paris museum has reopened. It is full of the tools and machines - many original - that helped make our modern world. A report about my visit to it is featured in last week's issue.

Musée des Arts et Métiers, 60. Rue Réaumur, Paris 3. Métro: Arts et Métiers. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00; until 21:00 on Thursdays. Entry: 35 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 82 20.

20 Years of Nakedness In Montparnasse - shows that Montparnasse is making a definite comeback. This exhibition features the young photographer Hélène Tilman, with herself as model, and painter Gérard Fromanger, who started out before Hélène was born. The real title is 'Avoir 20 Ans à Montparnasse, Nus' and is also featured in this issue. From Wednesday to Sunday, from 13:00 to 19:00; until Monday, 12. June. At the 'Chemin du Montparnasse,' 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. Info. Tel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

Bijoux Romantiques - were made in the time of George Sand, which is now considered 'romantic.' This exhibition of decorative jewelry featuring more than 200 pieces - some from the Musée des Arts Décoratifs - will be taking place until 1. October, at the Musée de la Vie Romantique. In the Hôtelposter: catherine 2 at mairie 5 Scheffer-Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Blanche or Pigalle. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Catherine's Bijoux - in 1787 Catherine II of Russia acquired the Orléans' collection of 1500 precious stones. Now 225 of these are on display, on a loan from the Hermitage, to the Mairie of the 5th. Daily, from 10:45 to 17:45, on Sundays and holidays from 14:00 to 18:45; until Sunday, 28. May. Mairie of the 5th arrondissement, Place du Panthéon, Paris 5. Métro: RER Luxembourg. Info. Tel.: 01 56 81 75 05.

Fancy Fans - just because I've never noticed the Fan Museum - La Musée de l'Eventail - doesn't mean that opera decorator Yvonne Sassinot de Nesle hasn't made a series of elaborate fans for it. On show until Wednesday, 19. May. On view from Monday to Friday; from 14:00 to 19:00. At 2. Boulevard de Strasbourg, Paris 10. Métro: Strasbourg-St-Denis. Info. Tel.: 01 42 08 90 20.

Lumière aux Cordeliers - eight well-known artists who use light, but not always with electricity, will be having their works shown in the Couvent des Cordeliers. Until Sunday, 4. June. Open from Tuesday to Sunday; from 11:00 to 19:00. Couvent des Cordeliers, 15. Rue de l'Ecole de Médecine, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon. Info. Tel.: 01

James Turrell - concurrently with the exhibition at the Couvent des Cordeliers, the Espace Electra will be featuring James Turrell, who plays with light and space. Until Tuesday, 18. July. This event also marks the Espace Electra's 10th anniversary. At 6. Rue Récamier, Paris 7. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone. Info. Tel.: 01 53 63 23 45.

La Seine et Paris - is an exhibition that treats two subjects that are inseparable. The Seine has fed Paris and the river continues to play its important role - while Parisians and visitors get to admire it. Until Friday, 19. May, this exhibition can be found in the Mairie of the 1st arrondissement, at 4. Place du Louvre. Métro: Louvre-Rivoli. Then from Tuesday, 30. May until Friday, 7. July it will be in the Mairie of the 4th arrondissement, at the Place Baudoyer. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. In both locations, from 12:00 to 18:00; Mondays to Friday.

Trésors des Arts Asiatiques - is from the collection of Mr and Mrs John D. Rockerfeller III, which is now managed by the Asia Society. This show features 81 major pieces from the entire collection, and comes to Paris after being shown in Melbourne, Sydney and Shanghai. This show continues until Sunday, 14. May. It can be seen daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40, at the Musée Cernuschi, 7. Avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Métro: Monceau or Villiers. Info. Tel.: 01 45 63 50 75.

Mutations/Mode 1960/2000 - is an exhibition that takes a look at how fashion has evolved in the last 40 years, with a special look at the textiles themselves and the industry that makes clothing. Until Sunday, 30. July; daily except Mondays and certain holidays; from 10:00 to 18:00. Musée Galliera, 10. Avenue Pierre-1er-de-Serbie, Paris 8. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. Info. Tel.: 01 47 20 85 23.

L'Empire du Temps - is an exhibition about the legends of time, the chaos of the origins of our grand myths, from antiquity upwards through time towards us. It also asks questions about the relationships between art and time. From the Louvre's own collection plus pieces from the Musée d'Orsay. Until Monday, 10. July. Except Tuesdays, daily from 9:00 to 17:45; to 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. At the Musée du Louvre, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal.Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.


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