Full-House Time

photo: place andre malraux

Untypical monsoons give way to typical Paris in May at the Place André Malraux.

Expos On and Festivals Yet To Come

Paris:- Saturday, 13. April 2000:- Here it is a week later and the city's 'Paris' magazine is still not available. No matter - after a few subtractions, this column still lists a selection of the interesting events currently on in Paris.

Three or four items are treated in more detail on another page in this issue. These involve the Varian Fry exhibition at the Monaphoto: sculpture, pl vendome Bismarck Foundation, the 'Mai des Montparnos' - also known as 'Montparnasse 2000' - and all the details I could dig up concerning this coming Bastille Day's 'Incroyable Pique-Nique.'

One of many Debré statues in the Place Vendôme.

From this point in time, I don't expect many major new exhibitions will be announced before the season tapers off into the very active summer festival 'doldrums.' But read on, I make additions I forget I've made.



The items below are not necessarily 'new;' but they open this week's column.

Le Mai des Montparnos - Still a favored area by artists, Montparnasse has gathered the 14th, 15th and 6th arrondissements together, to have a month's worth of artists' open doors throughout theposter: expo, au dessus des vulcans last half of the month of May. The program has been set and there are more details about it on another page in this issue.

Lucile finally caught up with me and gave me this poster. The expo opens on Thursday at the Brasserie du Maine, 165. Avenue du Main, Paris 14.

Le Long Voyage - is an exhibition that shows the final version of the tapestry called 'Le Long Voyage,' done in the Atelier 3 in Paris by Asger Jorn and Pierre Wemaëre of Denmark. From Thursday, 25. May until Sunday, 9. July; from 10:00 to 17:40 daily except Mondays. At the Petit Palais, Avenue Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau.

Saint-Exupéry - wrote the 'Little Prince' and became one of the world's most well-known French writers. In the course of putting up a foundation to keep Saint-Exupéry's memory alive, a modest 'Espace' now exists in Paris at 14. Rue Cassendi, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. Info. Tel.: 01 43 22 58 90. Antoine de Saint-Exupéry's birthdate is on Thursday, 29. June.

Vue Par Olivier Mériel - this concerns photographs of Victor Hugo's Hauteville House on the island of Guernsey, where the writer lived in exile from 1855 to 1870. An early report about the house was done on 1862. The Ville de Paris has owned the house since 1927; so it decided to have Olivier Mériel take another look at it in 1998. This exhibition was shown at Hugo's house in Paris in late 1998. Hauteville House, 38. Hauteville Saint-Pierre-Port-Guernsey. Until 30. September; open daily except Sundays, from 10:00 to 17:00 in July and August. Closed on some holidays. Info. Tel.: 00 441 481 721 911, which is a long-distance number if phoning from France.

Place Vendôme - is normally a ritzy, stone desert; but according to my own view of it yesterday it is full of a lot of dramatic and quite large sculptures. Theirbrochure: saint exupery foundation installation definitely improves the vast place. The sculptor's name is Louis Debré. Open 24 hours a day; seven days a week; but until when? Paris 1. Métro: Opéra.

Paris Jazz Festival - makes its 7th annual appearance at the Parc Floral, continuing from now until Sunday, 30. July. Every Saturday and Sunday at 16:30, at the Parc Floral in the Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Château-de-Vincennes. Entry: 10 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 43 43 92 95.

Cover of the brochure issued by the Fondation Saint-Exupéry.

Fête du Pain 2000 - Under two grand and 15 smaller tents set up in front of Paris' Hôtel be Ville, everybody who works in the bread part of the European food-chain will be showing off their stuff, until tomorrow, Tuesday, 16. May. There will be some 'animations' with this, but I don't see anything about free bread. Métro: Hôtel de Ville.

This item closes the opening 'new' events for this week. You will find some other new items below. Again, lack of time has not permitted me to form a text to go with each of the images - but they do represent current events in Paris.

Old Book Fair - is actually called the '12eme Foire Internationale du Livre Ancien' or 'FILA' for short. This is for serious collectors - one novel, written around 1470, has an estimate of about three million francs for it. The sale part is accompanied by an exhibition that features rare item from the bibliothèque municipale of Versailles. Many of Paris' rare book dealers will be present. Opening day, Thursday, 25. May; hours are 17:00 to 21:00; and from Friday to Sunday are 11:00 to 19:00. At the Maison de la Mutualité, 24. Rue Saint-Victor, Paris 5. Métro: Maubert-Mutualité or Cardinal Lemoine. Info. Tel.: 01 43 29 46 38.

Festival de Saint-Denis - this very cultural annual festival located to the north of Paris kicks off this year on Thursday, 15. June. It features concerts, dance, and 'creations.' Métro; Saint-Denis Basilique. Info. Tel.: 01 48 13 06 07. Reservations can also be made through the Web site, highlighted above.

Le Bourget Air Show - the big bi-annual showcase for military aircraft stunts, but civil aviation is represented too. At the airport at Le Bourget, from Thursday, 18. May until Sunday, 21. May. Métro: RER 'B.' Organized by Reed-OIP, which may have information at Info. Tel.: 01 41 90 47 10 too.

Art et Cigare - 50 international artists were asked to light up a Havana and they did so with enthusiasm. Opening on Thursday, 25 May and sharing its vernissage with 'Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés.' This exhibition continues until Monday, 31. July. Openbrochure: festival saint denis from Tuesday to Friday, from 11:00 to 13:00 and 14:30 to 19:30; on Saturdays from 11:00 non-stop to 19:30. At the Galerie Flak, 8. Rue des Beaux-Arts, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon, Mabillon or Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Info. Tel.: 01 46 33 77 77.

Poussières d'Etoile & Autres Toiles - means BC. Pierron has included works from previous exhibitions called 'Energies Intersidérales,' 'Les Météores' and 'Paysages Moléculaires' - to continue his fascination with deep space by creating things not normally seen on mere earth. From Tuesday, 16. May until Tuesday, 30. May; daily from 11:00 to 19:00. At the Cloître des Billettes, 24. Rue des Archives, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville or Rambuteau.Info. Tel.: 01

'Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés' - is 'open doors' for a mere 100 art galleries in the Quartier Latin. Thursday, 25. May features the 'vernissages' with a happening and maybe street music, followed by part two on Sunday, 28. May, from 14:00 to 19:00. Part one on Thursday starts at 18:00. From Rue Bonaparte to Rue Dauphine; from the Rues de l'Abbaye and Buci, to the Seine. Bridges: Pont des Arts or Pont Neuf. Métro: Odéon, Mabillon or Saint-Germain-des-Prés. For info, try Artnet.

Latitudes Villette / Brasil - Brazilian Percussion comes from Salvador in the form of the 6th PercPan, which blew away São Paulo earlier this year. Coming to Paris for three days in May with Naná Vasconcelos and Gilberto Gil, be sure to get ready for the World Percussion Panorama.

However a planned encore happens the following weekend, with another 150 drummers from the Portela Samba School, also playing outside. Other performances are inside and for these there are two sorts of tickets -one for all of an evening's concerts for 160 francs, or 120 francs for either the Grande Halle or the Cité de la Musique. At La Villette on Saturday, Sunday and Monday; 27, 28 and 29. May - and the following weekend of 2, 3 and 4. June. The Saturday show features 150 drummers, outside. The music starts at 19:00; or at 15:30 on Sundays. Métro: Porte de Pantin. Info. Tel.: 01 44 84 44 84.

Luz Casal - will be giving a concert at the Olympia in Paris on Thursday, 18. May. Tickets available at the usual agencies. Info. Tel.: 01 47 42 25 49.

La Seine et Paris - is an exhibition that treats two subjects that are inseparable. The Seine has fed Paris and the river continues to play its important role - while Parisians and visitors get to admire it. This exhibition can be found from Tuesday, 30. May until Friday, 7. July, when it will be in the Mairie of the 4th arrondissement, at the Place Baudoyer. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. In both locations, from 12:00 to 18:00; Mondays to Friday.

Meeting Ferté 2000 - is yet another annual exhibition and flying show, with real airplanes - some of which are really old. This is the airplane nut's airshow. The two-day 'meeting' is out of town, but not far away at the Aérodrome at Cerny-La Ferté-Alais, in Essonne. Dates are Saturday and Sunday, 24. and 25. June.

Monet At Marmottan - for the first time in Paris, the Musée Marmottan presents the complete collection of paintings by Claude Monet. A special section is set aside for the Giverny paintings. Degas, Caillebotte, Sisley and Gauguin are also present, but this is nearly a mono-Monet show. Until 31. December; from 10:00 to 17:00, except Mondays. Musée Marmottan, 2. Rue Louis-Boilly, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette. Info. Tel.: 01 42 24 07 02.

Soleils Mexicains - is a big show of 250 pieces that continues until 13. August. Featuring pre-Columbian works, up to the major talents of the 20th century. This is part of the '2000 In Paris' homage to the Americas. At the Petit Palais, Avenue du Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. Except Monday, open from 10:00 to 17:40; to 20:00 on Thursdays. Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

L'Arts d'Afrique, d'Asie, d'Océanie et des Amériques - this is the first exhibition of the Quai Branly museum that doesn't exist yet, so it is housed in the newly re-opened Pavillon des Sessions in the Louvre. The 'artworks' featured are called 'primitive' by some, but the French have coined a newinvitation: expo petit palais, the long voyage, tapisseries phrase; 'Arts Premiers.' The entry to the Louvre's new section is located to the south of the Carrousel Arch. Follow the signs to the Porte des Lions. Info. Tel.: 01 40 30 51 51.

2000 Nains à Bagatelle - with a bagatelle of 2000 garden dwarfs, zwergs, nains. For their first real exhibition in France, this is not all kitsch - early zwergs were modelled after court entertainers, and even earlier dwarfs date to antiquity. See the Metropole feature. Except Tuesdays, open daily from 11:00 to 18:00. Until Sunday, 23. July. Bagatelle, Route de Neuilly, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métro: Pont de Neuilly, or bus 43. Park entry: 10 francs.

Makishi - In a spectacular show, masked dancers from Tshokwe, Luvale, Ngandela in Angola, from Zimbabwe, Zambia and from the south of the Congo, stage a return visit to the Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, within the framework of the 4th Festival de l'Imaginaire - co-organized with the Maison des Cultures du Monde. The exhibition continues until Monday, 26. June. Except Tuesdays, daily from 10:00 to 17:30. Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, 293. Avenue Daumesnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée. Info. Tel.: 01 43 46 51 61.

Les Esprits, l'Or et le Chamane - Gold had no monetary value to the original Americans, who used it for decorations. For the first time in France, 300 of the best examples from the Bogota's Museo del Oro show how the Americans saw death and the destiny of souls. Until Monday, 10. July. Reservations required from 10:00 to 13:00, come as you are from 13:00 to 20:00. Except Tuesdays, open daily and on Wednesdays until 22:00. Closed 1. May. Clemenceau entry, Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

L'Empire du Temps - from its own collections, the Louvre presents the legends of time, from antiquity to Christian and western eras. Also suggested is how to use a museum to kill time. Part of the 'Mission 2000 In France' program. Continues until Monday, 10. July. Open daily except Tuesdays; from 9:00 to 17:45; until 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. The Louvre, Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Louvre-Palais Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

1900 - The last turn of the century lasted from 1895 until 1905 and I expect ours will go on for another five years too. One hundred years ago Europe was booming along industrially, and art was booming too, and plants were an inspiration.

This exhibition of things '1900' is like looking in your great-grandparent's 'jungle' attic; all of it too 'Mucha.' Until Monday, 26. June. Open daily except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 20:00, on Thursday until 22:00. Morning entries by reservation; after 13:00, at the door. Closed Monday, 1. May. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général-Eisenhower, Square Jean-Perrin, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 10.

Musée des Arts et Métiers - After ten years of being mostly closed and about four years of being all closed, a major Paris museum has reopened. It is full of the tools and machines - many original - that helped make our modern world. A report about my visit to it is featured in a recent issue.

Musée des Arts et Métiers, 60. Rue Réaumur, Paris 3. Métro: Arts et Métiers. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00; until 21:00 on Thursdays. Entry: 35 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 82 20.

Les Grands Boulevards - are getting some more constant drumroll these days and now another exhibition too. See 'Traditions et Innovations' from Monday to Friday; from 12:00 to 17:45 on weekdays and from 13:45 to 17:45 on weekends. Until Sunday, 30. July, at the Centre Historique des Archives Nationales - Hôtel de Soubise, 60. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot.

20 Years of Nakedness In Montparnasse - shows that Montparnasse is making a definite comeback. This exhibition features the young photographer Hélène Tilman, with herself as model, and painter Gérard Fromanger, who started out before Hélène was born. The real title is 'Avoir 20 Ans à Montparnasse, Nus.' From Wednesday to Sunday, from 13:00 to 19:00; until Monday, 12. June. At the 'Chemin du Montparnasse,' 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. Info. Tel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

Bijoux Romantiques - were made in the time of George Sand, which is now considered 'romantic.' This exhibition of decorative jewelry featuring more than 200 pieces - some from the Musée des Arts Décoratifs - will be taking place until 1. October, at the Musée de la Vie Romantique. In the Hôtel Scheffer-Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Blanche or Pigalle. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Catherine's Bijoux - in 1787 Catherine II of Russia acquired the Orléans' collection of 1500 precious stones. Now 225 of these are on display, on a loan from the Hermitage, to the Mairie of the 5th. Daily, from 10:45 to 17:45, on Sundays and holidays from 14:00 to 18:45; until Sunday, 28. May. Mairie of the 5th arrondissement, Place du Panthéon, Paris 5. Métro: RER Luxembourg. Info. Tel.: 01 56 81 75 05.

Lumière aux Cordeliers - eight well-known artists who use light, but not always with electricity, will be having their works shown in the Couvent des Cordeliers. Until Sunday, 4. June. Open from Tuesday to Sunday; from 11:00 to 19:00. Couvent des Cordeliers, 15. Rue de l'Ecole de Médecine, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon. Info. Tel.: 01

James Turrell - concurrently with the exhibition at the Couvent des Cordeliers, the Espace Electra will be featuring James Turrell, who plays with light and space. Until Tuesday, 18. July. This event also marks the Espace Electra's 10th anniversary. At 6. Rue Récamier, Paris 7. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone. Info. Tel.: 01 53 63 23 45.

Trésors des Arts Asiatiques - is from the collection of Mr and Mrs John D. Rockerfeller III, which is now managed by the Asia Society. This show features 81 major pieces from the entire collection, and comes to Paris after being shown in Melbourne, Sydney and Shanghai. This show continues until Sunday, 14. May. It can be seen daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40, at the Musée Cernuschi, 7. Avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Métro: Monceau or Villiers. Info. Tel.: 01 45 63 50 75.

Mutations/Mode 1960/2000 - is an exhibition that takes a look at how fashion has evolved in the last 40 years, with a special look at the textiles themselves and the industry that makes clothing. Until Sunday, 30. July; daily except Mondays and certain holidays; from 10:00 to 18:00. Musée Galliera, 10. Avenue Pierre-1er-de-Serbie, Paris 8. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. Info. Tel.: 01 47 20 85 23.

L'Empire du Temps - is an exhibition about the legends of time, the chaos of the origins of our grand myths, from antiquity upwards through time towards us. It also asks questions about the relationships between art and time. From the Louvre's own collection plus pieces from the Musée d'Orsay. Until Monday, 10. July. Except Tuesdays, daily from 9:00 to 17:45; to 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. At the Musée du Louvre, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

Calligraphy & Engraving - two other temporary exhibition at the Louvre are worth your time. 'Calligraphes Ottomanes' from Sakip Sabanci's collection are on view until Monday, 29. May. From the collection of Edmond de Rothschild, 90 engravings plus some drawings from the Custodia Foundation, form the exhibition titled 'Rembrandt, Gravures et Dessins;' on view until Monday, 19. June. Except Tuesdays, daily from 9:00 to 17:45; to 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. At the Musée du Louvre, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

Haiti - Anges et Démons - plus voodoo graffiti, Holy Sun, metal Ogou, and contemporary 'magic' - in 300 pieces done between 1945 and today. 'Magic painting,' according to André Malraux. Until Friday, 30. June; from 10:00 to 19:00, daily. At the Halle Saint-Pierre, 2. Rue Ronsard, Paris 18. Métro Anvers. Info. Tel.: 01 42 58 72 89.

Les Peintures de L'Ame - assembles 40 artists who looked into their souls and put what they saw into their works. From Gustave Moreau, to Camille Claudel, to Charles-Marie Dulac. Nickname: 'idealistic symbolism.' Until Sunday, 25. June; daily exceptposter: gal an girard, alexandre trauner Mondays from 11:30 to 18:30. At the Pavillon des Arts, Les Halles, Porte Rambuteau, Terrasse Lautréamont, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet or Les Halles. Info. Tel.: 01 42 33 82 50.

The Atelier An. Girard is in Montparnasse too - currently showing Alexandre Trauner.

Courbet et la Commune - Seven years after being at the summit of his fame, Courbet died miserably in Switzerland. His mistake - being on the anti-Napoleonic side during the Commune of 1870. This exhibition shows his work done in prison and in exile. Until Sunday, 11. June. Tuesday and Wednesday, from 10:00 to 18:00; Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 to 18:00. Musée d'Orsay, Quai Anatole France, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER 'C' Orsay.Info. Tel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Marianne et les Révolutionaires - is a sculpted group by Ousmane Sow, which is accompanied by a film by Béatrice Soulé. This continues until Monday, 26. June. Except Tuesdays, daily from 10:00 to 17:30. At the Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, 293. Avenue Daumesnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée. Info. Tel.: 01 43 46 51 61.

1930's Live In Boulogne Boulogne-Billancourt's Musée des Années 30 - Espace Landowski has quite a lot of those 'good old days,' and some of them were pretty nifty. Worth a slightly long métro ride and featured in Metropole. At 28. Avenue André-Morizet, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt. Métro: Marcel-Sembat. Open Tuesday, 12:00 to 18:00; Wednesday and Saturday, 10:00 to 18:00; Thursday, 14:00 to 20:00; Friday, 14:00 to 18:00 and Sunday, 13:00 to 18:00. Closed from 15. to 30. August. Info. Tel.: 01 55 18 46 42.

Le Crépuscule des Dinosaures - is some to scare adults with, but kids will love it. This is a big show, with possibly big lineups, so make your plans carefully. Until Sunday, 14. May. At the Palais de la Découverte, Avenue Franklin-Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: same name. Info. Tel.: 01 56 43 20 21.

Lasar Segall - the retrospective has been put together by the Laser Segall Museum of Sao Paulo, the Jewish Museum of New York and the Smart Museum ofposter: paris jazz festival, jardin des plantes Chicago. Little-known in France despite a four-year period in Paris and a retrospective in 1959, Segall spent most of his life in Brazil. Until Sunday, 14. May, at the Musée d'Art et Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 86 53.

Le Canotage - while canoes are happening outside, in the interior there will be 'Intérieur' by Vlaminck, which the Musée Fournaise thinks he may have painted there. 'There' is the Ile des Impressionistes at Chatou, which has its boatworks, historic museum and a restaurant. Until 29. October. Musée Fournaise, Ile des Impressionistes, 78400 Chatou. Take RER line 'A' to Chatou-Croissy or Reuil-Malmaison. Open Thursday and Friday from 11:00 to 17:00 and on Saturday and Sunday, from 11:00 to 18:00. Info. Tel.: 01 34 80 63 22.

Paris' Museums Online - is not the official name for the new Web site that has been launched, to present Paris' own 15 museums.


Alexandre Trauner - "Decors de Trauner, architecture imaginaire, si beaux et si vivants" paraphrased from Jacques Prévert, because I can't make out a couple of his handwritten words. One illustration looks like a London red-brick street in the rain, and on the back is a photograph looking like a film set modelled on the illustration. Until Friday, 7. July. Open from Tuesday to Friday, from 12:30 to 18:30 and by invitation. At L'Atelier An. Girard, 7. Rue Campagne Première, Paris 14. Métro: Vavin or Raspail. Info. Tel/Fax.: 01 43 22 01 16.

Galeries Louise Weiss - is the name I give to the collective set of modern art galleries located in the Rue Louise Weiss. You should go and see 'Le Palais de la Blague' - I'm not kidding! - at the Galerie Jennifer Flay, just for openers. There seem to be more photographic works than usual - neat shots of people killed by their gardens, and so on. Fromposter: portes ouverts, carrousel du louvre about 11. to 34. Rue Louise Weiss, Paris 13. Métro: Chevaleret. Collectively open from Tuesday to Saturday from 11:00 to 19:00; the current exhibitions continue until Saturday, 10. June.

Musée Bouchard - here I am mentioning a sculptor whose work I've never seen and who died in 1960. 'Bouchard et la Bourgogne' runs until 13. September. Open from Wednesday to Saturday, from 14:00 to 19:00. At the Musée Bouchard, 25. Rue de l'Yvette, Paris 16. Métro: Jasmin. Info. Tel.: 01 46 47 63 46.

Prix Bourdelle 2000 - has been awarded to Vincent Péraro, for some of his airy pieces made out of cement. Better go and see. Until Sunday, 30. July; daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Bourdelle, 18. Rue Antoine-Bourdelle, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. Info. Tel.: 01 49 54 73 73.

Arpad Szenes - returns for another retrospective, this time in the Salle Saint-Jean, in the Hôtel de Ville. Another European artist who washed up in Paris in the '20's, mixed into Montparnasse with success, but went to Brazil during the war. He returned to Paris in 1947, bringing some sunlight back. Until Sunday, 17. June; except Mondays, from 11:00 to 19:00. Salle Saint-Jean, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. No entry charge. Info. Tel.: 01 42 76 51 53.

The Centre Georges Pompidou - aka 'Beaubourg,' is again open to the public and the public, deprived of its cultural factory is turning up in droves - just like it used to. 'Stars au Féminin' features 150 films, until 2. October. See films and plastic works by Len Lye until Sunday, 30. April. For the rest of the program, the fallback may be Beaubourg's Web site, but all I got was an 'start' page.

Cornélia Marjolin Scheffer - died just over 100 years ago, but was the daughter of Ary Scheffer and a painter herself. She turned her house into a 'salon' and it became the Musée de la Vie Romantique. This special exhibition is in addition to the permanent collection, and continues until Thursday, 27. July. At 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Brassaï - for the first time in France, Brassaï gets a big retrospective, featuring over 400 works, including photographs, sculptures, designs - some of which areposter: passions boreales, musee marine being shown here for the first time. This major exhibition continues until Monday, 26. June; from 11:00 to 21:00, daily except Tuesdays. At the Centre Cultural Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau.

Coiffures Africains - is not the name of this photo exhibition by the Nigerian photographer Ojeikere who treats hair-dos as sculpture. Except Mondays, from 12:00 to 20:00; until Sunday, 28. May. At the Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain, 261. Boulevard Raspail, Paris 14. Métro: Raspail. Info. Tel.: 01 42 18 56 51.

For me the Musée de la Marine is always closed. You may have better luck.

Exodes - for six years and through 40 countries, the photographer Sebastião Salgado sought the story of the world's refugees. Until 3. September, at the Maison Européenne de la Photo, 5-7. rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

La Commune Photographie - represents the first uprising in Paris to be photographed. Candid images, photos taken after events, photo-montages and faked photos, for propaganda purposes. Until Sunday, 11. June. Tuesday and Wednesday, from 10:00 to 18:00; Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 to 18:00. Musée d'Orsay, Quai Anatole France, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER 'C' Orsay.Info. Tel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Operissima - part one is a live 'best of' the 19th century Italian opera, with the Ignacio Jarquin Company and the Polyphorum Symphony Orchestra; and part two is a whole opera, 'Cavalleria Rusticana.' Every Sunday at 16:00 at the Bataclan, 50. Boulevard Voltaire, Paris 11. Métro: Oberkampf or Saint-Amboise. Info. Tel.: 01 43 14 35 35.

Arts du Spectacle - this section of the Bibliothèque Nationale began in 1920 with Auguste Rondel's collection, and now numbers three million documents concerning the theatre, circus, music hall, and cinema. This department of the BNF is located at the Bibliothèque de l'Arsenal, 1. Rue de Sully, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland. Hours are Monday to Friday, from 10:00 to 18:00 and from 10:00 to 17:00 on Saturday. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 25 25.

Théâtre Châtelet Reopens - completely renovated, this large theatre belonging to the city has programmed 210 performances and has 276,297 seats for sale - less those already sold - for the 1999-2000 season. Two pieces by Gluck started off Châtelet's new life. Info. Tel.: 01 40 28 28 00.

Salut les Artistes! - announces the first half of Chaillot's 2000 season - its 80th. If you want to be up-to-date, give the Web site of the Théâtre National de Chaillot a hit or call the Info. Tel.: 01 53 65 30 00.

De Gaulle - Ecrire et Diriger - is another in a series of original manuscript and document exhibitions put on by the Bibliothèque Nationale. The occasion is the 60th anniversary of General De Gaulle's famous 'appeal' to the occupied French; broadcast from BBC transmitters on 18. June 1940. Starts Wednesday, 3. May and continues until Monday, 17. July. Open daily except Tuesdays and holidays; from 10:00 to 17:45; on weekends from 13:45 to 17:45. At the Musée d'Histoire de France - Hôtel de Soubise, 60. Rue Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. Info. Tel.: 01 40 27 60 96.

Oser Le Savoir - which translates as 'Dare to Know,' features '10 keys to the future' which will be presented with a changing program of new exhibitions and debates until the end of the year. This takes place, in cooperation with the CNRS, at the Cité des Sciences & de l'Industrie at La Villette. 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. Info. Tel.: 0140 05 80 00.

Monnaies, Médailles, Antiques - are part of the permanent collection, which have their own department; which also includes a library of 60,000 volumes, at the Bibliothèque Nationale de France. The museum of this department is open to the public from Monday to Friday, from 13:00 to 17:45; on Saturday from 13:00 to 16:45 and on Sunday from 12:00 to 18:00. Groups need reservations. BNF, 58. Rue de Richelieu, Paris 2. Métro: Bourse. Info. Tel.: 01 47 03 83 40.

L'Art du Billet, 1800 - 2000 - if you like money even if it's 200 years old - or brand-new, see this exhibition of the collection of the Banque de France. Also see the concurrent exhibition featuring Augustin Dupré, one of the chief engravers. Until Sunday, 11. June; from 10:00 to 17:40; at the Musée Carnavalet - Historie de Paris, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin-Vert. Info. Tel.: 01 44 59 58 58.

'Pas Si Bêtes! 1000 Cerveaux, 1000 Mondes' - While Paris' Grande Galerie de l'Evolution du Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle is for discovering evolution, there is also an exhibition about the possible interactivity between brains called 1000 Cerveaux - for short - which will be online until 10. July 2000. The museum is in the Jardin des Plantes, with its entry at 36. Rue Geoffrey Saint-Hillaire, Paris 5. Métro: Place Monge is closest.

Natures En Tête - shows other ways of looking at nature, and includes some animations - also with a theatre for children, and debates. Until Monday, 22. May, in the Galerie de Botanique, at the Jardin des Plantes, 18. Rue Buffon, Paris 5. Métro; Jussieu, Gare d'Austerlitz or Censier-Daubenton. This is nearly in the same location as the above item.

Jean-Sans-Peur's Tower - read Metropole's feature then go and see the decor in this unusual townhouse, especially its unusual stairway. at 20. Rue Etienne Marcel, Paris 2. Métro: Etienne Marcel. Info. Tel.: 01 42 61 55 02.

The Cinémathèque Française - has a non-stop program of rare film projections. The film museum operates in two locations: at the Palais de Chaillot, garden entry; and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Auto-Info Tel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

L'Arrivé du Tour - is something you can do on the same circuit as the Tour de France will follow for its final stage in Paris. Before the real 'Tour' arrives on Sunday, 23. July, the route will be open to 10,000 bicyclos for their own cycle tour. Only the first 10,000 to sign up are invited. No entries via fax will be accepted - but photocopies of the inscription form will be. Check 'La Tour's' Web site, or email me. Another bonus: all riders will get official Tour de France t-shirts.

La Ronde des Gobelins - is the 4th edition of a bicycle race that will take place on Saturday and Sunday, 20 and 21. May. Not just a race but a whole bike festival, with its 'village' in front of the Mairie of the 13th. The race itself is on Sunday at 9:00. At the Place de l'Italie, Paris 13. Métro: Place de l'Italie. Info. Tel.: 01 44 08 13 05.

Rent-a-Bike - details about the RATP's 'Roue Libre' and other bike rental possibilities are included in a 'Scene' column, published last year.

Cyclotourists - should also check out the 'The Best Biking Guide to Paris And Day Trips Outside Paris,' which is by Rose Burke who has personally tested everything for you, both downhill and uphill. You have to pedal yourself though.

Antique Métro - for the métro's 100th anniversary, the RATP has decided to re-run the old red and green 'Sprague' wagons that disappeared from service 20 years ago. The line chosen for this is the six, between Etoile and Nation, which is largely elevated and crosses the Seine twice. Photo-op stops are made on the Bir-Hakeim and Bercy bridges. Reckon on 80 minutes for the round-trip. The RATP will be running these trains on Sundays - 14 and 18. May; 18. June; 2, 16, and 30. July; and the 13 and 27. August. The actual anniversary run will be on Wednesday, 19. July. Reservations necessary. Info. Tel.: 01 44 68 38 12.

Tour Eiffel - now has its own show of knocks-offs and copies, some by quite famous artists. Exhibition on the tower's first floor, featuring engravings, photos and objects, plus souvenirs. By elevator the fare is 22 francs for adults and 13 francs for kids under twelve. Ascent by the stairs costs 18 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 44 11 23 99.

The Ile-de-France is the region that surrounds Paris - which is more or less well-known. The region's problem is that it is very big; but its major attraction is that it is authentic French 'countryside,' and it is not far from Paris. The current brochure for festivals and events in the Ile-de-France from April to June runs to 65 pages.

Paris' Balloon - offers Paris views from a high place, without need of an elevator. Again in the air after a tough winter, you should call first to find out if it is a balloon day. For adults, 66 francs and 33 for kids. At the Parc André Citroën, Paris 15. Métro: Ballard. Info. Tel.: 01 44 26 20 01.

The RATP's 'Cyberdeck' - The RATP has installed four Internet terminals in their Port Royal RER 'B' station. These offer free access and unlimited online time. The 'Cyberdeck' units are equipped with touch-screens instead of 'mice' and they have French keyboard layouts, so these are two features that take a bit of getting used to. Club members have said that the Cyberdecks are now in other stations, such as Châtelet.

CyberPoste - France's La Poste has 1000 post offices throughout France with Internet connections, possibly making La Poste the world biggest cybercafé without any café. All you do is buy a rechargeable Cyberposte card for 50 francs, which is good for one hour of network time. You can also get a personal email account.

Also see 'La Poste's' services for philatelists. Or write to Service Philatélique de La Poste, 18. Rue François-Bonvin, 75758 Paris, Cedex 15. France

Free Entries - are offered to all on Sunday mornings, from 10:00 to 13:00, at some of Paris' own museums. This involves up to 15 different places, so I'm not going to listbrochure: ratp balabus them all here. When I write 'places' it is because the list includes the archeological crypt under the parvis in front of Notre Dame - of which I know nothing - and the Maison de Balzac, which is currently closed with storm damage.

There are exceptions to the free entry; one is the Catacombs, at Denfert-Rochereau, possibly because they are right next door to me - but most likely because they don't open until the afternoon. Except for bigger shows in the Musée du Petit Palais, most of Paris' own museums have modest entry charges anyway.

Guided Visits - Paris Gardens - the city has an annual program of guided visits to its gardens - also for the blind and the deaf; which include conferences, demonstrations of gardening and explanations about the life of plants. There is a brochure with more details available, and there is also the city's Web site. Info. Tel.: 01 40 71 75 60.

Tickets: Théâtre On Line - presents the majority of theatre performances in Paris and the Ile-de-France, with news of new shows, criticism, and has a searchable database.

Tickets: www.fnac.com - France's giant media and cultural retailer also has its 'ticket' Web site, which has just been presented with a new face-lift, which is called a 're-loooook.'

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