Our Beautiful Balloons

photo: the sitters, fountain marco polo

Far from the circus, close to tranquility - a free bench.

Are Full of Hot Air

Paris:- Saturday, 13. April 2000:- The city's monthly magazine for residents, 'Paris Le Journal,' finally appeared four days late - yesterday, in fact. The reason for the delay - it includes all of the 'Paris 2000' events from now until September.

As it turns out, it may not be 'all' events - and - as I predicted, many of them are already included here - as well as some being over and gone already. One surprise is 'Paris Air 2000' which popped up on city-wide posters before the magazine appeared.

This involves lots of hot air - balloons! - which will be operating out of the Champ de Mars, starting on Wednesday 24. May and continuing until Sunday, 28. May. If I have this right, these balloons - some from the Malcolm Forbes Collection - will be tied to the ground so they don't get lost or punctured by the Tour Eiffel. On the ground, there will be some air force craft and others on loan from the Musée de l'Air. A free show full of air!

This coming Bastille Day's 'Incroyable Pique-Nique.' is treated in more detail on another page in last week's issue.



The items below are not necessarily 'new;' but they open this week's column.

Waitresses, Waiters, On Your Marks! - real trays with fake bottles and glasses will be transported - bistro! bistro! - through Paris by our hardworking café and bistro friends, who are required to wear regulation leather aprons and proper ties. This is sort of a busman's holiday, but - starting point is in front of the Hôtel de Ville. From there, west on Rivoli to Concorde and across the bridge to the Boulevard Saint-Germain, Saint-Michel, Notre-Dame, Pont d'Arcole; to end up where they started. Start-time: 14:30. Date; Sunday, 25. June; which is the Fête-Dieu. You don't need an Info. Tel. for this, but an umbrella is recommended.

Street Party - more details on this next week, but be sure to keep the weekend of 3/4. June free and be prepared to spend it in east Paris. Same thing for the Festival Franco-Britannique and Montmartre's 'Euro' party. Not in 'East Paris,' but details to come.

Roland Garros - since I am not a tennis fan I don't know if this 'Roland Garros' is the Roland Garros, but if it is, it starts on Monday, 29. May and continues until a winner is declared on Sunday, 11. June. Ticket sales begin Monday - right now! Info. Tel.: 01 47 43 48 00.

Festival de l'Imaginaire - has been going on for months, but there's no harm in giving it a boost because it continues until 25. June. In contrast, its acts and dates are varied and its locations are all over town, so I suggest you check out the Web site for Festival de l'Imaginaire details or call Info. Tel.: 01 45 44 72 30.

Divan du Monde - features Karamba Dioubate and T'Boys plus Guests next Friday, La Comparsa next Saturday and Altitude 18 on Sunday. If you can handle it. Divan du Monde, 75. Rue des Martyrs, Paris 18. Métro: Pigalle. Info. Tel.: 01 44 92 77 66.

Relais Parking - Quit driving aimlessly around the Champs-Elysées looking for imaginary parking places and start looking out for a little roadside kiosk with a green cap. This will be a Relais Parking site. Somehow stop near it and Relais Parking will arrange to have your car stashed for a modest sum plus the parking fee. When you have finished doing whatever it was you needed to do carless, simply return to the kiosk and your wheels will be returned to you. To be in many locations soon. Info. Tel.: 01 58 56 25 30.

Le Mai des Montparnos - Still a favored area by artists, the Montparnos haveposter: expo ditroy, librarie duvernet gathered the 14th, 15th and 6th arrondissements together, to have half a month's worth of artists' open doors throughout the last half of the month of May. The program has been set and there are more details about it on another page in last week's issue, plus my confused version of it in this issue.

Jean-Christophe Ditróy - exposes his works in my local stationary shop. Although being a 'Montparno,' Jean-Christophe prefers Belleville because he can play rock louder there. All the same, at the Librarie Duvernet, 21. Rue Mouton-Duvernet, Paris 14. Métro: Mouton-Duvernet.

This item closes the opening 'new' events for this week. You will find some other new items below. Again, simple laziness has not permitted me to form a text to go with each of the images - but they do represent current events in Paris.

Mats Ek and Ohad Naharin - are coming to the opéra at the Palais Garnier, for a little fancy dancing. Music for Mats Ek's 'Appartement' will be supplied by Fleshquartet, while Ohad Naharin 'Perpetuum' will rely on Johann Strauss Junior. Dates for the two start on Saturday, 27. May and continue until Saturday, 10. June. Métro: Place de l'Opéra. Info. Tel.: 08 36 69 78 68.

Nils-Udo - moves into the Musée Zadkine as soon as the expansion work being done allows, to take up temporary residence in its garden atelier in order sculpt some vegetation - up to five metres high. Do not try to visit before Friday, 16. June. Afterbrochure: parking service then, Nils-Udo will be there until 24. September; from Tuesdays to Sundays; and including the holidays of 14. July and 15. August. Musée Zadkine, 100 bis, Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin.

La Catrina - is a musical show having something to do with La Catrina and other 'figures of life and death in Mexico.' By Jorge Reyesand Ariane Pellicer, after an original text by Erando Gonzàlez, with costumes made of paper. Two performances only; on Wednesday, 14 and Thursday, 15. June at 20:30. At the Petit Palais, Avenue Winston-Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

Mesurer l'Atmosphère - is a temporary 'weather' exhibition at the nuts and bolts museum, which probably starts on Tuesday, 6. June. Musée des Arts et Métiers, 60. Rue Réaumur, Paris 3. Métro: Arts et Métiers. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00; until 21:00 on Thursdays. Entry: 35 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 82 20.

Le Long Voyage - is an exhibition that shows the final version of the tapestry called 'Le Long Voyage,' done in the Atelier 3 in Paris by Asger Jorn and Pierre Wemaëre of Denmark. From Thursday, 25. May until Sunday, 9. July; from 10:00 to 17:40 daily except Mondays. At the Petit Palais, Avenue Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau.

Old Book Fair - is actually called the '12eme Foire Internationale du Livre Ancien' or 'FILA' for short. This is for serious collectors - one novel, written around 1470, has an estimate of about three million francs for it. The sale part is accompanied by an exhibition that features rare items from the bibliothèque municipale of Versailles. Many of Paris' rare book dealers will be present. Opening day, Thursday, 25. May; hours are 17:00 to 21:00; and from Friday to Sunday are 11:00 to 19:00. At the Maison de la Mutualité, 24.photo: divan du monde, mai Rue Saint-Victor, Paris 5. Métro: Maubert-Mutualité or Cardinal Lemoine. Info. Tel.: 01 43 29 46 38.

Art et Cigare - 50 international artists were asked to light up a Havana and they did so with enthusiasm. Opening on Thursday, 25 May and sharing its vernissage with 'Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés.' This exhibition continues until Monday, 31. July. Open from Tuesday to Friday, from 11:00 to 13:00 and 14:30 to 19:30; on Saturdays from 11:00 non-stop to 19:30. At the Galerie Flak, 8. Rue des Beaux-Arts, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon, Mabillon or Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Info. Tel.: 01 46 33 77 77.

'Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés' - is 'open doors' for a mere 100 art galleries in the Quartier Latin. Thursday, 25. May features the 'vernissages' with a happening and maybe street music, followed by part 2 on Sunday, 28. May, from 14:00 to 19:00. Part one on Thursday starts at 18:00. From Rue Bonaparte to Rue Dauphine; from the Rues de l'Abbaye and Buci, to the Seine. Bridges: Pont des Arts or Pont Neuf. Métro: Odéon, Mabillon or Saint-Germain-des-Prés. For info, try Artnet.

Latitudes Villette / Brasil - Brazilian Percussion comes from Salvador in the form of the 6th PercPan, which blew away São Paulo earlier this year. Coming to Paris for three days in May with Naná Vasconcelos and Gilberto Gil, be sure to get ready for the World Percussion Panorama.

However a planned encore happens the following weekend, with another 150 drummers from the Portela Samba School, also playing outside. Other performances are insideposter: afrique dans les tous sens and for these there are two sorts of tickets -one for all of an evening's concerts for 160 francs, or 120 francs for either the Grande Halle or the Cité de la Musique. At La Villette on Saturday, Sunday and Monday; 27, 28 and 29. May - and the following weekend of 2, 3 and 4. June. The Saturday show features 150 drummers, outside. The music starts at 19:00; or at 15:30 on Sundays. Métro: Porte de Pantin. Info. Tel.: 01 44 84 44 84.

La Seine et Paris - is an exhibition that treats two subjects that are inseparable. The Seine has fed Paris and the river continues to play its important role - while Parisians and visitors get to admire it. This exhibition can be found from Tuesday, 30. May until Friday, 7. July, when it will be in the Mairie of the 4th arrondissement, at the Place Baudoyer. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. In both locations, from 12:00 to 18:00; Mondays to Friday.

Festival de Saint-Denis - this very cultural annual festival located to the north of Paris kicks off this year on Thursday, 15. June. It features concerts, dance, and 'creations.' Métro; Saint-Denis Basilique. Info. Tel.: 01 48 13 06 07. Reservations can also be made through the Web site, highlighted above.

Meeting Ferté 2000 - is yet another annual exhibition and flying show, with real airplanes - some of which are really old. This is the airplane nut's airshow. The two-day 'meeting' is out of town, but not far away at the Aérodrome at Cerny-La Ferté-Alais, in Essonne. Dates are Saturday and Sunday, 24. and 25. June.

Monet At Marmottan - for the first time in Paris, the Musée Marmottan presents the complete collection of paintings by Claude Monet. A special section is set aside for the Giverny paintings. Degas, Caillebotte, Sisley and Gauguin are also present, but this is nearly a mono-Monet show. Until 31. December; from 10:00 to 17:00, except Mondays. Musée Marmottan, 2. Rue Louis-Boilly, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette. Info. Tel.: 01 42 24 07 02.

Soleils Mexicains - is a big show of 250 pieces that continues until 13. August. Featuring pre-Columbian works, up to the major talents of the 20th century. This is part of the '2000 In Paris' homage to the Americas. At the Petit Palais, Avenue du Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. Exceptbrochure: brazil 500, brazuca Monday, open from 10:00 to 17:40; to 20:00 on Thursdays. Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

L'Arts d'Afrique, d'Asie, d'Océanie et des Amériques - this is the first exhibition of the Quai Branly museum that doesn't exist yet, so it is housed in the newly re-opened Pavillon des Sessions in the Louvre. The 'artworks' featured are called 'primitive' by some, but the French have coined a new phrase; 'Arts Premiers.' The entry to the Louvre's new section is located to the south of the Carrousel Arch. Follow the signs to the Porte des Lions. Info. Tel.: 01 40 30 51 51.

2000 Nains à Bagatelle - with a bagatelle of 2000 garden dwarfs, zwergs, nains. For their first real exhibition in France, this is not all kitsch. See the Metropole feature. Except Tuesdays, open daily from 11:00 to 18:00. Until Sunday, 23. July. Bagatelle, Route de Neuilly, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métro: Pont de Neuilly, or bus 43. Park entry: 10 francs.

Makishi - In a spectacular show, masked dancers from Tshokwe, Luvale, Ngandela in Angola, from Zimbabwe, Zambia and from the south of the Congo, stage a return visit to the Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, within the framework of the 4th Festival de l'Imaginaire - co-organized with the Maison des Cultures du Monde. The exhibition continues until Monday, 26. June. Except Tuesdays, daily from 10:00 to 17:30. Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, 293. Avenue Daumesnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée. Info. Tel.: 01 43 46 51 61.

Les Esprits, l'Or et le Chamane - Gold had no monetary value to the original Americans, who used it for decorations. For the first time in France, 300 of the best examples from the Bogota's Museo del Oro show how the Americans saw death and the destiny of souls. Until Monday, 10. July. Reservations required from 10:00 to 13:00, come as you are from 13:00 to 20:00. Except Tuesdays, open daily and on Wednesdays until 22:00. Closed 1. May. Clemenceau entry, Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

L'Empire du Temps - from its own collections, the Louvre presents the legends of time, from antiquity to Christian and western eras. Also suggested is how to use a museum to kill time. This continues until Monday, 10. July. Open daily except Tuesdays; from 9:00 to 17:45; until 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. The Louvre, Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Louvre-Palais Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

1900 - The last turn of the century lasted from 1895 until 1905 and I expect ours will go on for another five years too. One hundred years ago Europe was booming along industrially, and art was booming too, and plants were an inspiration for art if not food.

This exhibition of things '1900' is like looking in your great-grandparent's 'jungle' attic. Until Monday, 26. June. Open daily except Tuesdays, from 10:00 to 20:00, on Thursday until 22:00. Morning entries by reservation; after 13:00, at the door. Closed Monday, 1. May. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général-Eisenhower, Square Jean-Perrin, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 10.

20 Years of Nakedness In Montparnasse - shows that Montparnasse is making a definite comeback. This exhibition features the young photographer Hélène Tilman, with herself as model, and painter Gérard Fromanger, who started out before Hélène was born. The real title is 'Avoir 20 Ans à Montparnasse, Nus.' From Wednesday to Sunday, from 13:00 to 19:00; until Monday, 12. June. At the 'Chemin du Montparnasse,' 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. Info. Tel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

Place Vendôme - is normally a ritzy, stone desert; but according to my own view of it yesterday it is full of a lot of dramatic and quite large sculptures. Their installation definitely improves the vast place. The sculptor's name is Louis Debré. Open 24 hours a day; seven days a week; but until when? Paris 1. Métro: Opéra.

Les Grands Boulevards - are getting some more constant drumroll these days and now another exhibition too. See 'Traditions et Innovations' from Monday to Friday; from 12:00 to 17:45 on weekdays and from 13:45 to 17:45 on weekends. Untilposter: mats ek, opera Sunday, 30. July, at the Centre Historique des Archives Nationales - Hôtel de Soubise, 60. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot.

Bijoux Romantiques - were made in the time of George Sand, which is now considered 'romantic.' This exhibition of decorative jewelry featuring more than 200 pieces - some from the Musée des Arts Décoratifs - will be taking place until 1. October, at the Musée de la Vie Romantique. In the Hôtel Scheffer-Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Blanche or Pigalle. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Catherine's Bijoux - in 1787 Catherine II of Russia acquired the Orléans' collection of 1500 precious stones. Now 225 of these are on display, on a loan from the Hermitage, to the Mairie of the 5th. Daily, from 10:45 to 17:45, on Sundays and holidays from 14:00 to 18:45; until next Sunday, 28. May. Mairie of the 5th arrondissement, Place du Panthéon, Paris 5. Métro: RER Luxembourg. Info. Tel.: 01 56 81 75 05.

Lumière aux Cordeliers - eight well-known artists who use light, but not always with electricity, will be having their works shown in the Couvent des Cordeliers. Until Sunday, 4. June. Open from Tuesday to Sunday; from 11:00 to 19:00. Couvent des Cordeliers, 15. Rue de l'Ecole de Médecine, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon. Info. Tel.: 01

James Turrell - concurrently with the exhibition at the Couvent des Cordeliers, the Espace Electra will be featuring James Turrell, who plays with light and space. Until Tuesday, 18. July. This event also marks the Espace Electra's 10th anniversary. At 6. Rue Récamier, Paris 7. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone. Info. Tel.: 01 53 63 23 45.

Mutations/Mode 1960/2000 - is an exhibition that takes a look at how fashion has evolved in the last 40 years, with a special look at the textiles themselves and the industry that makes clothing. Until Sunday, 30. July; daily except Mondays and certain holidays; from 10:00 to 18:00. Musée Galliera, 10. Avenue Pierre-1er-de-Serbie, Paris 8. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. Info. Tel.: 01 47 20 85 23.

L'Empire du Temps - is an exhibition about the legends of time, the chaos of the origins of our grand myths, from antiquity upwards through time towards us. It also asks questions about the relationships between art and time. From the Louvre's own collection plus pieces from the Musée d'Orsay. Until Monday, 10. July. Except Tuesdays, daily from 9:00 to 17:45; to 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. At the Musée du Louvre, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

Calligraphy & Engraving - two other temporary exhibitions are worth your time. 'Calligraphes Ottomanes' from Saip Sabanci's collection are on view until Monday, 29. May. From the collection of Edmond de Rothschild, 90 engravings plus some drawings from the Custodia Foundation, form the exhibition titled 'Rembrandt, Gravures et Dessins;' on view until Monday, 19. June. Except Tuesdays, daily from 9:00 to 17:45; to 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. At the Musée du Louvre, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.


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