Here Comes Summer

photo: rue daguerre, 21 june

On a rare warm evening last week in Paris.

Paris Wakes Up While Parisians Take Off

Paris:- Saturday, 24. June 2000:- I used to live close enough to Versailles for it to be in the neighborhood and now I don't. Although it is not far away from Paris it is slightly further than Boulogne-Billancourt, which is still a only métro ride away.

Versailles huge park took a big beating during last December's hurricane. There was to have been a show of its 'Jardins Baroque' starting in mid-month, but this has been put off to next year. You can keep in touch with developments, at the Musée du Château de Versailles Web site.

One event being canceled isn't a reason for passing up Versailles entirely. There are three other summer attractions out at Louis XIV's large and not-so-cozy home and these are listed below.

This Summer - Last Summer

About this time last year I had a pretty complete program for the summer in Paris. This year I will be out of town when its various bits becomes available. Many items and events do not change from year to year, so if you take a look at last years' issue numbers 427 and 428, then fiddle the calendar a bit, you will have an idea of what may be happening this year.

Be sure to look for the items concerning Bastille Day, swimming pools and bike and roller rentals.



The items below are not necessarily 'new;' but they open this week's column.

Atget, le Pionnier - his pioneering photographs have become national photographic treasures; an exhibition of them continues until Sunday, 17. September. Exceptposter: frenchy ska, bataclan Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00. Hôtel de Sully, 62. Rue Saint-Antoine, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 42 74 47 75.

Le Monde Dans la Tête - what else can you expect when 50 international modern artists are around? Big names, big stuff, until 29. October. Open Tuesday to Friday, from 10:00 to 17:30; on weekends from 10:00 to 18:45. Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

L'Octuor de France - offers 10 chamber music concerts in the Orangerie in the Parc de Bagatelle. Brahams, Ravel, Haydn, Mozart, Schubert; two entry prices: 100 francs for afternoons and 150 francs for candlelight - plus 10 francs for entry to the park. Parc de Bagatelle, Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Métro: Pont de Neuilly, plus bus 43, plus 10 minutes' walk. InfoTel.: 01 45 01 20 10.

This item closes the opening 'new' events for this week. You will find some other new items below. Again, lack of time has not permitted me to form a text to go with each of the images - but they do represent current events in Paris.

Versailles: Summer Events - as in past years, Versailles' summer events do not vary much, but remain spectacular. 'Les Nouveau Plaisirs' features ballet by Maurice Béjart, set mostly to music by Mozart and Rossini. The 'Fêtes de Nuit' are at the Neptune basin and take place on Saturday evenings. In July they are the 1, 8, 22. et 29. at 22:30. There is one on 26. August at 21:30, and on 2. and 9. September, also at 21:30. 'Les Grandes Eaux Musicales' are every Sunday until 8. October, and include Tuesday, 15. August. For more details, check out the Musée du Château de Versailles Web site. To get to Versailles take the RER 'C' line, to Versailles R-G, or take the SNCF train from the Gare Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01 30 83 77 88.

Quartier d'Eté - more than 90 events make up this summer's Paris program of artistic events, to be performed on streets, places and squares throughout the city. This program goes on more or less non-stop from Saturday, 15. July until Tuesday, 15. August. Some of these events are free and others are not. Paris' own Web site should have complete details. InfoTel.: 01 44 94 98 00.

Ciné l'Eté - this event used to be called 'Aout au Ciné' but it has been extended, to begin on Saturday, 15. July. You have to get a card called 'Paris Ciné l'Eté' from the reception office in the Hôtel de Ville on the Rue de Rivoli, or at any Mairie, RATP offices, and some métro stations. By being able to prove you are under 25, the card allows entries to 150 cinemas for 25 francs. The cards will be available after Monday, 3. July and the program continues until 31. August.

Walk-In Outside Movies - are now a tradition at the Parc de la Villette, which has a sit-down place for you to watch free movies on an inflated screen. Films roll from Saturday, 15. July until 3. September; and start about 22:00 when it's dark enough. Prairie du Triangle, Parc de la Villette. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 40 03 75 75.

Club Med World - one day when I was looking for a beach on the Champs-Elysées I wandered in to the Club Med offices because I thought they might know where to find one. They built one instead and it takes up three floors; it will open on Friday, 30. June at Bercy Village. I don't know if it has a beach, but the Seine is not far away. At métro: Cour-Saint-Emillon, on line 14.

Prix Arcimboldo - Catherine Ikam received a special jury mention for her work, which is on show until Sunday 16. July. For digital images Christophe Clark and Virginie Pougnaud received special mentions. Their works are on view from Wednesday, 19. July until Sunday, 3. September. Openposter: afro cuban, cigale Wednesday to Sunday, from 11:00 to 19:45. La Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, or 82. Rue François-Miron, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 78 00.

La Dame de la Mer - Anita Conti was one of the first woman oceanographers; one who sailed all of the seas, from 1935 until the '60's. This is an exhibition of her photos, taken of the world of deep-sea fishing. From Wednesday, 7. July until Sunday, 10. September. Except Mondays, open from 11:30 to 18:30. At the Pavillon des Arts, Les Halles, Porte Rambuteau, Terrace Lautréamont, Paris 1. RER and métro: Châtelet. InfoTel.: 01 42 33 82 50.

Villette Jazz Festival - this one-week music festival features only the best, performing at Villette's park, Grand Halle and the nearby Cité de la Musique. In the first part of each evening, a choice of two big concerts; in the second part, three more modest concerts. From Friday, 30. June until Friday, 7. July. Several ticket formulas are available, possibly outlined at two Web sites. Cite-Musique and La Villette. Resa. Tel.: 01 40 03 75 75 or 01 44 84 44 84. Métro: Porte de Pantin.

The Abby School Orchestra - performs well-known classical music from the 16-20th centuries, focusing on Handel, Bizet's 'Carmen' and Pietro Mascagni. On Friday, 30. June. The Bolton School Girls Division is a choir which features sacred music from Purcell, Vivaldi, Faure and many more. They will also be featuring a Vivaldi vocal solo, with a string orchestra performing part of a Bach concerto and a mixture of small instrumental musical ensembles. On Sunday, 9. July at 19:30. Both at the Eglise Evangelique Allemande in the Rue Blanche, Paris 9. Métro: Trinité.

L'Incroyable Pique-Nique - This coming Bastille Day's 'incredible picnic' is treated in more detail on another page in a past issue. But L'Incroyable Pique-Nique now has its Web site, so you can find out more than I know now. For those who are forgetful, Bastille Day is on Friday, 14. July and the picnic will be 1000 kilometres long.

Monet At Marmottan - for the first time in Paris, the Musée Marmottan presents the complete collection of paintings by Claude Monet. A special section is set aside for the Giverny paintings. Degas, Caillebotte, Sisley and Gauguin are also present, but this is nearly a mono-Monet show. Until 31. December; from 10:00 to 17:00, except Mondays. Musée Marmottan, 2. Rue Louis-Boilly, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette. Info. Tel.: 01 42 24 07 02.

Soleils Mexicains - is a big show of 250 pieces that continues until 13. August. Featuring pre-Columbian works, up to the major talents of the 20th century. This is part of the '2000 In Paris' homage to the Americas. Until 13. August. At the Petit Palais, Avenue du Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elyséesposter: n cole, g benson, olympia Clemenceau. Except Monday, open from 10:00 to 17:40; to 20:00 on Thursdays. Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

L'Arts d'Afrique, d'Asie, d'Océanie et des Amériques - this is the first exhibition of the Quai Branly museum so it is housed in the newly re-opened Pavillon des Sessions in the Louvre. The 'artworks' featured are called 'primitive' by some, but the French have coined a new phrase; 'Arts Premiers.' The entry to the Louvre's new section is located to the south of the Carrousel Arch. Follow the signs to the Porte des Lions. Info. Tel.: 01 40 30 51 51.

2000 Nains à Bagatelle - with a bagatelle of 2000 garden dwarfs, zwergs, nains. For their first real exhibition in France, this is not all kitsch. See the Metropole feature. Except Tuesdays, open daily from 11:00 to 18:00. Until Sunday, 23. July. Bagatelle, Route de Neuilly, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métro: Pont de Neuilly, or bus 43. Park entry: 10 francs.

Les Esprits, l'Or et le Chamane - Gold had no monetary value to the original Americans, who used it for decorations. For the first time in France, 300 of the best examples from the Bogota's Museo del Oro show how the Americans saw death and the destiny of souls. Until Monday, 10. July. Reservations required from 10:00 to 13:00, come as you are from 13:00 to 20:00. Except Tuesdays, open daily and on Wednesdays until 22:00. Closed 1. May. Clemenceau entry, Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

L'Empire du Temps - from its own collections, the Louvre presents the legends of time, from antiquity to Christian and western eras. Also suggested is how to use a museum to kill time. This continues until Monday, 10. July. Open daily except Tuesdays; from 9:00 to 17:45; until 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. The Louvre, Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Louvre-Palais Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

Yiddish? Yiddish? - exhibition(s) continue until 8. October, with a little more Yiddish Atmosphère on 17. and 18. October. Ecran Yiddish shows movies, until Tuesday, 4. July. At the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville. Museum hours Monday to Friday from 11:00 to 18:00; and Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 86 60.

Nils-Udo - moves into the Musée Zadkine to take up temporary residence in its garden atelier in order sculpt some vegetation - up to five metres high. This exhibition continues until 24. September; from Tuesdays to Sundays; and including the holidays of 14. July and 15. August. Musée Zadkine, 100 bis, Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin.

23rd Foire Saint-Germain - this is some theatre, concerts, exhibitions and various other animations for all ages, with a program brochure of 30 pages. This 'Foire' actually began in 1176, but this year it continues until Monday, 3. July. The antiques section of this foire is centered at the Place Saint-Suplice. Daily from 11:00 to 20:00 and extended evenings on Friday, 23. June and Thursday, 28. June; until 22:00. Foire Saint-Germain, Paris 6. Info. Tel.: 01 43 29 61 04.

Gallimard et la Suisse - is an exhibition displaying a century of literary affiliation between the publisher and the country. Until Sunday, 2. July; from Wednesday to Sunday; from 14:00 to 19:00; at the Centre Culturel Suisse, 38. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Rambuteau. Info. Tel.: 01 42 71 38 38.

Mesurer l'Atmosphère - is a temporary 'weather' exhibition at the newly renovated the nuts and bolts museum. Musée des Arts et Métiers, 60. Rue Réaumur, Paris 3. Métro: Arts et Métiers. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00; until 21:00 on Thursdays. Entry: 35 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 82 20.

La Seine et Paris - is an exhibition that treats two subjects that are inseparable. The Seine has fed Paris and the river continues to play its important role - while Parisiansposter: a torts et a raison, thr montparnasse and visitors get to admire it. This exhibition can be seen until Friday, 7. July at the Mairie of the 4th arrondissement, at the Place Baudoyer. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. In both locations, from 12:00 to 18:00; Mondays to Friday.

Place Vendôme - is normally a ritzy, stone desert; but according to my own view it is full of a lot of dramatic and quite large sculptures. Their installation definitely improves the vast place. The sculptor's name is Louis Debré. Open 24 hours a day; seven days a week; but until when? Paris 1. Métro: Opéra.

Les Grands Boulevards - are getting some more constant drumroll these days and now another exhibition too. See 'Traditions et Innovations' from Monday to Friday; from 12:00 to 17:45 on weekdays and from 13:45 to 17:45 on weekends. Until Sunday, 30. July, at the Centre Historique des Archives Nationales - Hôtel de Soubise, 60. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot.

Bijoux Romantiques - were made in the time of George Sand, which is now considered 'romantic.' This exhibition of decorative jewelry featuring more than 200 pieces - some from the Musée des Arts Décoratifs - will be taking place until 1. October, at the Musée de la Vie Romantique. In the Hôtel Scheffer-Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Blanche or Pigalle. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

James Turrell - the Espace Electra is featuring James Turrell, who plays with light and space. Until Tuesday, 18. July. This event also marks the Espace Electra's 10th anniversary. At 6. Rue Récamier, Paris 7. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone. Info. Tel.: 01 53 63 23 45.

Mutations/Mode 1960/2000 - is an exhibition that takes a look at how fashion hasposter: 50 ans, thr huchette evolved in the last 40 years, with a special look at the textiles themselves and the industry that makes clothing. Until Sunday, 30. July; daily except Mondays and certain holidays; from 10:00 to 18:00. Musée Galliera, 10. Avenue Pierre-1er-de-Serbie, Paris 8. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. Info. Tel.: 01 47 20 85 23.

L'Empire du Temps - is an exhibition about the legends of time, the chaos of the origins of our grand myths, from antiquity upwards through time towards us. It also asks questions about the relationships between art and time. From the Louvre's own collection plus pieces from the Musée d'Orsay. Until Monday, 10. July. Except Tuesdays, daily from 9:00 to 17:45; to 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. At the Musée du Louvre, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

Haiti - Anges et Démons - plus voodoo graffiti, Holy Sun, metal Ogou, and contemporary 'magic' - in 300 pieces done between 1945 and today. 'Magic painting,' according to André Malraux. Until Friday, 30. June; from 10:00 to 19:00, daily. At the Halle Saint-Pierre, 2. Rue Ronsard, Paris 18. Métro Anvers. Info. Tel.: 01 42 58 72 89.

Le Canotage - while canoes are happening outside, in the interior there will be 'Intérieur' by Vlaminck, which the Musée Fournaise thinks he may have painted there. 'There' is the Ile des Impressionistes at Chatou, which has its boatworks, historic museum and a restaurant. Until 29. October. Musée Fournaise, Ile des Impressionistes, 78400 Chatou. Take RER line 'A' to Chatou-Croissy or Reuil-Malmaison. Open Thursday and Friday from 11:00 to 17:00 and on Saturday and Sunday, from 11:00 to 18:00. Info. Tel.: 01 34 80 63 22.

Paris' Museums Online - is not the official name for the new Web site that has been launched, to present Paris' own 15 museums.


Trois Imprimeurs d'Art - features three art printers, grouped together for a joint show of lithography, typography and engraving at the Mairie of the 10th. From Monday to Friday, from 10:00 to 18:00 and on Saturdays from 9:00 to 13:00. Until Friday, 30. June. At 72. Rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, Paris 10. Métro: Château d'Eau.

The 'Lost Angel' of Montparnasse - is Abraham Mintchine, who came from Kiev to Montparnasse in 1926, and remained relatively discrete until he died near Toulon in 1931. This exhibition will present 34 paintings, done in the last years of his life. From Wednesday to Sunday, from 13:00 to 19:00. This exhibition continues until 10. September. At the 'Chemin du Montparnasse,' 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. Info. Tel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

Jean Colin - started out doing posters for films until 1950, then branched out into posters for industry and publicity. Until Saturday, 22. July, at the Bibliothèque Forney, 1. Rue du Figuier, Paris 4. Métro: Pont Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 42 78 14 60.

La Comédie Humaine en Peinture - illustration of texts by Balzac, too large to be printed, by Serge Kantorowicz. Balzac, a failed printer, didposter: fete des passages want his books illustrated - and the Edition Furne of the La Comédie Humaine is one result. When he died in 1850 about 110 engravings had been done, by the best there was. These serve as a counterpoint to Serge Kantorowicz' works. From Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 17:40; until 24. September; at the Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: Passy Info. Tel.: 01 55 74 41 80.

Art et Cigare - 50 international artists were asked to light up a Havana and they did so with enthusiasm. This exhibition continues until Monday, 31. July. Open from Tuesday to Friday, from 11:00 to 13:00 and 14:30 to 19:30; on Saturdays from 11:00 non-stop to 19:30. At the Galerie Flak, 8. Rue des Beaux-Arts, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon, Mabillon or Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Info. Tel.: 01 46 33 77 77.

Alexandre Trauner - "Decors de Trauner, architecture imaginaire, si beaux et si vivants" paraphrased from Jacques Prévert, because I can't make out a couple of his handwritten words. One illustration looks like a London red-brick street in the rain, and on the back is a photograph looking like a film set modelled on the illustration. Until Friday, 7. July. Open from Tuesday to Friday, from 12:30 to 18:30 and by invitation. At L'Atelier An. Girard, 7. Rue Campagne Première, Paris 14. Métro: Vavin or Raspail. Info. Tel/Fax.: 01 43 22 01 16.

'Scène Est' - is the new name given to the collective set of modern art galleries located in the Rue Louise Weiss. There seem to be more photographic works than usual - which are 'modern' and therefore not like my 'postcards.' From about 11. to 34. Rue Louise Weiss, Paris 13. Métro: Chevaleret. Collectively open from Tuesday to Saturday from 11:00 to 19:00; the current exhibitions continue until Saturday, 22. July.

Prix Bourdelle 2000 - has been awarded to Vincent Péraro, for some of his airy pieces made out of cement. Better go and see. Until Sunday, 30. July; daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Bourdelle, 18. Rue Antoine-Bourdelle, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. Info. Tel.: 01 49 54 73 73.

Cornélia Marjolin Scheffer - died just over 100 years ago, but was the daughter of Ary Scheffer and a painter herself. She turned her house into a 'salon' and it became the Musée de la Vie Romantique. This special exhibition is in addition to the permanent collection, and continues until Thursday, 27. July. At 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Musée de la Poupée - has a new exhibition continuing until 5. November. Paris' doll museum will be featuring dolls made from 1850 to 1959 that pre-figured Barbie, followed by Barbie herself, from 1959 to 2000. The third part shows off Barbie's rivals; all the Bellas, Sindys and Nancy de Famosa to mention a few. Except Monday, open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. Musée de la Poupée, Impasse Berthaud, Paris 3. In an alley opposite the métro: Rambuteau. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Désirs de Rivages - is the name of the first marine photographic biannual, with homage to be paid to René Jacques. This exhibition is open from 10:00 to 17:50 daily except Tuesdays, until 18. September. At the Musée de la Marine, in the Palais de Chaillot, Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro. Info. Tel.: 01 53 65 69 69.

10 Ans d'Acquisitions - concerns the last 10 years of photographic acquisitions by the Musée de la Photographie. I've mentioned this museum's location may be a bit difficult to find before, so be sure to call for directions. Jacques Tati's wonderfulposter: jean luc borras, les blancs manteaux film, 'Les Vancances de M. Hulot,' will be shown under the stars, on Wednesday, 5. July, at 22:00. Musée Français de la Photographie, 78. Rue de Paris, 91570 Bièvres. This exhibition continues until 17. September. Info. Tel.: 01 69 35 16 50.

Vue Par Olivier Mériel - this concerns photographs of Victor Hugo's Hauteville House on the island of Guernsey, where the writer lived in exile from 1855 to 1870. The Ville de Paris has owned the house since 1927; so it decided to have Olivier Mériel take another look at it in 1998. This exhibition was shown at Hugo's house in Paris in late 1998. Hauteville House, 38. Hauteville Saint-Pierre-Port-Guernsey. Until 30. September; open daily except Sundays, from 10:00 to 17:00 in July and August. Closed on some holidays. Info. Tel.: 00 441 481 721 911, which is a long-distance number if phoning from France.

Exodes - for six years and through 40 countries, the photographer Sebastião Salgado sought the story of the world's refugees. Until 3. September, at the Maison Européenne de la Photo, 5-7. rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

Festival de Saint-Denis - this very cultural annual festival is located to the north of Paris. It features concerts, dance, and 'creations.' Métro; Saint-Denis Basilique. Info. Tel.: 01 48 13 06 07. Reservations can also be made through the Web site, highlighted above. Until Monday, 3. July.

Comédie. Pas Moi - concerns two short plays by Samuel Beckett, which run about one hour together. Directed by Christian Rist, with Sylvie Chenus and Catherine Laborde, plus the director. On Tuesday to Saturday at 20:30 and on Sunday at 16:00. Atposter: prevert, lucernaire the Théâtre de l'Aquarium Cartoucherie in the Parc Floral in the Bois de Vincennes. Métro: Château de Vincennes. Free shuttle bus is called 'Cartoucherie.' Info. Tel.: 01 43 74 99 61, or see TheatreOnline and fnac below for tickets.

17th Chopin à Paris Festival - out in the Orangerie de Bagatelle, Paris' Societé Chopin will be having its annual tribute to the composer. This involves a lot of concerts, including those by other famous composers. For details, try the Festival Chopin Web site. Until Friday, 14. July. At the Parc de Bagatelle, in the Bois de Boulogne. Métro: Pont de Neuilly or Porte Maillot, and look for the buses. Info. Tel.: 01 45 00 22 19.

Comme Toi M'Aime - has got favorable reviews for its unusual production by the Waïtoulé theatre company, for this piece written by Claire Denieul. The 'unusual' part is that the stage is on the train tracks in the tunnel under the café La Flèche d'Or, 102. Rue de Bagnolet, Paris 20. Be sure to wear a coat because the tunnel is a bit chilly. Get to it by train too: Métro: Gambetta or Alexandre Dumas. Until Saturday, 1. July; at 20:30. Info. Tel.: 01 40 12 31 55.

Favela Chic - is the Parisian version of a Brazilian slum with music; now in a new location, open since May. This is in the Oberkampf area, so if this place is too hot, there are fall-back places nearby almost as hot. Favela Chic, 18. Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, Paris 11. Métro: République. Info. Tel.: 01 40 21 38 14.

Paris Jazz Festival - makes its 7th annual appearance at the Parc Floral, continuing from now until Sunday, 30. July. Every Saturday and Sunday at 16:30, at the Parc Floral in the Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Château-de-Vincennes. Entry: 10 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 43 43 92 95.

Operissima - part one is a live 'best of' the 19th century Italian opera, with the Ignacio Jarquin Company and the Polyphorum Symphony Orchestra; and part two is a whole opera, 'Cavalleria Rusticana.' Every Sunday at 16:00 at the Bataclan, 50. Boulevard Voltaire, Paris 11. Métro: Oberkampf or Saint-Amboise. Info. Tel.: 01 43 14 35 35.

De Gaulle - Musée de l'Armée - The occasion for the new installation of an exhibition devoted to Général Charles De Gaulle and France-Libré is the 60th anniversary of the General's famous 'appeal' to the occupied French; broadcast from BBC transmitters on 18. June 1940. Open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de l'Armée, north entrance of the Hôtel des Invalides, 129. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Invalides, Latour-Maubourg or Varenne. Info. Tel.: 01 44 42 37 72.

Le Long Voyage - is an exhibition that shows the final version of the tapestry called 'Le Long Voyage,' done in the Atelier 3 in Paris by Asger Jorn and Pierre Wemaëre of Denmark. Until Sunday, 9. July; from 10:00 to 17:40 daily except Mondays. At the Petit Palais, Avenue Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau.

Musée des Arts et Métiers - After ten years of being mostly closed and about four years of being all closed, a major Paris museum has reopened. It is full of the tools and machines - many original - that helped make our modern world. A report about my visit to it is featured in last week's issue.

Musée des Arts et Métiers, 60. Rue Réaumur, Paris 3. Métro: Arts et Métiers. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00; until 21:00 on Thursdays. Entry: 35 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 82 20.

1930's Live In Boulogne Boulogne-Billancourt's Musée des Années 30 - Espace Landowski has quite a lot of those 'good old days,' and some of them were pretty nifty. Worth a slightly long métro ride and featured in Metropole. At 28. Avenue André-Morizet, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt. Métro: Marcel-Sembat. Open Tuesday, 12:00 to 18:00; Wednesday and Saturday, 10:00 to 18:00; Thursday, 14:00 to 20:00; Friday, 14:00 to 18:00 and Sunday, 13:00 to 18:00. Closed from 15. to 30. August. Info. Tel.: 01 55 18 46 42.

Saint-Exupéry - wrote the 'Little Prince' and became one of the world's most well-known French writers. In the course of putting up a foundation to keep Saint-Exupéry's memory alive, a modest 'Espace' now exists in Paris at 14. Rue Cassendi, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. Info. Tel.: 01 43 22 58 90. Antoine de Saint-Exupéry's birthdate is on Thursday, 29. June.

De Gaulle - Ecrire et Diriger - is another in a series of original manuscript and document exhibitions put on by the Bibliothèque Nationale. The occasion is the 60th anniversary of General De Gaulle's famous 'appeal' to the occupied French; broadcast from BBC transmitters on 18. June 1940. Continues until Monday, 17. July. Open daily except Tuesdays and holidays; from 10:00 to 17:45; on weekends from 13:45 to 17:45. At the Musée d'Histoire de France - Hôtel de Soubise, 60. Rue Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. Info. Tel.: 01 40 27 60 96.

Oser Le Savoir - which translates as 'Dare to Know,' features '10 keys to the future' which will be presented with a changing program of new exhibitions and debates until the end of the year. This takes place, in cooperation with the CNRS, at the Cité des Sciences & de l'Industrie at La Villette. 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. Info. Tel.: 01 40 05 80 00.

'Pas Si Bêtes! 1000 Cerveaux, 1000 Mondes' - While Paris' Grande Galerie de l'Evolution du Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle is for discovering evolution, there is also an exhibition about the possible interactivity between brains called 1000 Cerveaux - for short - which will be online until 10. July 2000. The museum is in the Jardin des Plantes, with its entry at 36. Rue Geoffrey Saint-Hillaire, Paris 5. Métro: Place Monge is closest.

The Cinémathèque Française - has a non-stop program of rare film projections. The film museum operates in two locations: at the Palais de Chaillot, garden entry; and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Auto-Info Tel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

L'Arrivé du Tour - is something you can do on the same circuit as the Tour de France will follow for its final stage in Paris. Before the real 'Tour' arrives on Sunday, 23. July, the route will be open to bicyclos for their own cyclo tour. Only the first 10,000 to sign up are invited. No entries via fax will be accepted - but photocopies of the inscription form will be. Check 'La Tour's' Web site. Another bonus: all riders will get official Tour de France t-shirts.

Rent-a-Bike - details about the RATP's 'Roue Libre' and other bike rental possibilities are included in a 'Scene' column, published last year.

Cyclotourists - should also check out the 'The Best Biking Guide to Paris And Day Trips Outside Paris,' which is by Rose Burke who has personally tested everything for you, both downhill and uphill. You have to pedal yourself though.

Born On the 19th of July? - Paris' métro was too and if you have the same birthdate - but not in 1900 - the RATP is inviting you to a party. First come, first served; places are limited too.

Antique Métro - for the métro's 100th anniversary, the RATP has decided to re-run the old red and green 'Sprague' wagons that disappeared from service 20 years ago. The line chosen for this is the six, between Etoile and Nation, which is largely elevated and crosses the Seine twice. Photo-op stops are made on the Bir-Hakeim and Bercy bridges. Reckon on 80 minutes for the round-trip. The RATP will be running these trains on Sundays - 2, 16, and 30. July; and the 13 and 27. August. The actual anniversary run will be on Wednesday, 19. July. Reservations necessary. Info. Tel.: 01 44 68 38 12.

The Ile-de-France is the region that surrounds Paris - which is more or less well-known. The region's problem is that it is very big; but its major attraction is that it is authentic French 'countryside,' and it is not far from Paris. The current brochure for festivals and events in the Ile-de-France from April to June runs to 65 pages.

Paris' Balloon - offers Paris views from a high place, without need of an elevator. Again in the air after a tough winter, you should call first to find out if it is a balloon day. For adults, 66 francs and 33 for kids. At the Parc André Citroën, Paris 15. Métro: Ballard. Info. Tel.: 01 44 26 20 01.

The RATP's 'Cyberdeck' - The RATP has installed Internet terminals in four RER 'B' line stations. These offer free access and unlimited online time. The 'Cyberdeck' units are equipped with touch-screens instead of 'mice' and they have French keyboard layouts, so these are two features that take a bit of getting used to.

CyberPoste - France's La Poste has 1000 post offices throughout France with Internet connections, possibly making La Poste the world biggest cybercafé without any café. All you do is buy a rechargeable Cyberposte card for 50 francs, which is good for one hour of network time. You can also get a personal email account.

Free Entries - are offered to all on Sunday mornings, from 10:00 to 13:00, at some of Paris' own museums. This involves up to 15 different places, so I'm not going to listposter: da vinci, casino de paris them all here. When I write 'places' it is because the list includes the archeological crypt under the parvis in front of Notre Dame - of which I know nothing - and the Maison de Balzac, which is currently closed with storm damage.

There are exceptions to the free entry; one is the Catacombs, at Denfert-Rochereau, possibly because they are right next door to me - but most likely because they don't open until the afternoon. Except for bigger shows in the Musée du Petit Palais, most of Paris' own museums have modest entry charges anyway.

Paris Musées Editions - Paris' 14 or 15 museums regularly publish books concerning their permanent exhibitions and catalogues for their temporary exhibitions. The 2000-edition catalogue is now available. Otherwise, the best location I know of for a wide selection is the Bibliothèque Historique's shop at 22. Rue Mahler, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 44 59 29 40.

Guided Visits - Paris Gardens - the city has an annual program of guided visits to its gardens - also for the blind and the deaf; which include conferences, demonstrations of gardening and explanations about the life of plants. There is a brochure with more details available, and there is also the city's Web site. Info. Tel.: 01 40 71 75 60.

Tickets: Théâtre On Line - presents the majority of theatre performances in Paris and the Ile-de-France, with news of new shows, criticism, and has a searchable database.

Tickets: www.fnac.com - France's giant media and cultural retailer also has its 'ticket' Web site, which has just been presented with a new face-lift, which is called a 're-looooooook.'

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