Here Comes Summer

photo: rue daguerre, 21 june

On a rare warm evening last week in Paris.

Paris Wakes Up While Parisians Take Off

Paris:- Saturday, 24. June 2000:- I used to live close enough to Versailles for it to be in the neighborhood and now I don't. Although it is not far away from Paris it is slightly further than Boulogne-Billancourt, which is still a only métro ride away.

Versailles huge park took a big beating during last December's hurricane. There was to have been a show of its 'Jardins Baroque' starting in mid-month, but this has been put off to next year. You can keep in touch with developments, at the Musée du Château de Versailles Web site.

One event being canceled isn't a reason for passing up Versailles entirely. There are three other summer attractions out at Louis XIV's large and not-so-cozy home and these are listed below.

This Summer - Last Summer

About this time last year I had a pretty complete program for the summer in Paris. This year I will be out of town when its various bits becomes available. Many items and events do not change from year to year, so if you take a look at last years' issue numbers 427 and 428, then fiddle the calendar a bit, you will have an idea of what may be happening this year.

Be sure to look for the items concerning Bastille Day, swimming pools and bike and roller rentals.



The items below are not necessarily 'new;' but they open this week's column.

Atget, le Pionnier - his pioneering photographs have become national photographic treasures; an exhibition of them continues until Sunday, 17. September. Exceptposter: frenchy ska, bataclan Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00. Hôtel de Sully, 62. Rue Saint-Antoine, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 42 74 47 75.

Le Monde Dans la Tête - what else can you expect when 50 international modern artists are around? Big names, big stuff, until 29. October. Open Tuesday to Friday, from 10:00 to 17:30; on weekends from 10:00 to 18:45. Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

L'Octuor de France - offers 10 chamber music concerts in the Orangerie in the Parc de Bagatelle. Brahams, Ravel, Haydn, Mozart, Schubert; two entry prices: 100 francs for afternoons and 150 francs for candlelight - plus 10 francs for entry to the park. Parc de Bagatelle, Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Métro: Pont de Neuilly, plus bus 43, plus 10 minutes' walk. InfoTel.: 01 45 01 20 10.

This item closes the opening 'new' events for this week. You will find some other new items below. Again, lack of time has not permitted me to form a text to go with each of the images - but they do represent current events in Paris.

Versailles: Summer Events - as in past years, Versailles' summer events do not vary much, but remain spectacular. 'Les Nouveau Plaisirs' features ballet by Maurice Béjart, set mostly to music by Mozart and Rossini. The 'Fêtes de Nuit' are at the Neptune basin and take place on Saturday evenings. In July they are the 1, 8, 22. et 29. at 22:30. There is one on 26. August at 21:30, and on 2. and 9. September, also at 21:30. 'Les Grandes Eaux Musicales' are every Sunday until 8. October, and include Tuesday, 15. August. For more details, check out the Musée du Château de Versailles Web site. To get to Versailles take the RER 'C' line, to Versailles R-G, or take the SNCF train from the Gare Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01 30 83 77 88.

Quartier d'Eté - more than 90 events make up this summer's Paris program of artistic events, to be performed on streets, places and squares throughout the city. This program goes on more or less non-stop from Saturday, 15. July until Tuesday, 15. August. Some of these events are free and others are not. Paris' own Web site should have complete details. InfoTel.: 01 44 94 98 00.

Ciné l'Eté - this event used to be called 'Aout au Ciné' but it has been extended, to begin on Saturday, 15. July. You have to get a card called 'Paris Ciné l'Eté' from the reception office in the Hôtel de Ville on the Rue de Rivoli, or at any Mairie, RATP offices, and some métro stations. By being able to prove you are under 25, the card allows entries to 150 cinemas for 25 francs. The cards will be available after Monday, 3. July and the program continues until 31. August.

Walk-In Outside Movies - are now a tradition at the Parc de la Villette, which has a sit-down place for you to watch free movies on an inflated screen. Films roll from Saturday, 15. July until 3. September; and start about 22:00 when it's dark enough. Prairie du Triangle, Parc de la Villette. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 40 03 75 75.

Club Med World - one day when I was looking for a beach on the Champs-Elysées I wandered in to the Club Med offices because I thought they might know where to find one. They built one instead and it takes up three floors; it will open on Friday, 30. June at Bercy Village. I don't know if it has a beach, but the Seine is not far away. At métro: Cour-Saint-Emillon, on line 14.

Prix Arcimboldo - Catherine Ikam received a special jury mention for her work, which is on show until Sunday 16. July. For digital images Christophe Clark and Virginie Pougnaud received special mentions. Their works are on view from Wednesday, 19. July until Sunday, 3. September. Openposter: afro cuban, cigale Wednesday to Sunday, from 11:00 to 19:45. La Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, or 82. Rue François-Miron, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 78 00.

La Dame de la Mer - Anita Conti was one of the first woman oceanographers; one who sailed all of the seas, from 1935 until the '60's. This is an exhibition of her photos, taken of the world of deep-sea fishing. From Wednesday, 7. July until Sunday, 10. September. Except Mondays, open from 11:30 to 18:30. At the Pavillon des Arts, Les Halles, Porte Rambuteau, Terrace Lautréamont, Paris 1. RER and métro: Châtelet. InfoTel.: 01 42 33 82 50.

Villette Jazz Festival - this one-week music festival features only the best, performing at Villette's park, Grand Halle and the nearby Cité de la Musique. In the first part of each evening, a choice of two big concerts; in the second part, three more modest concerts. From Friday, 30. June until Friday, 7. July. Several ticket formulas are available, possibly outlined at two Web sites. Cite-Musique and La Villette. Resa. Tel.: 01 40 03 75 75 or 01 44 84 44 84. Métro: Porte de Pantin.

The Abby School Orchestra - performs well-known classical music from the 16-20th centuries, focusing on Handel, Bizet's 'Carmen' and Pietro Mascagni. On Friday, 30. June. The Bolton School Girls Division is a choir which features sacred music from Purcell, Vivaldi, Faure and many more. They will also be featuring a Vivaldi vocal solo, with a string orchestra performing part of a Bach concerto and a mixture of small instrumental musical ensembles. On Sunday, 9. July at 19:30. Both at the Eglise Evangelique Allemande in the Rue Blanche, Paris 9. Métro: Trinité.

L'Incroyable Pique-Nique - This coming Bastille Day's 'incredible picnic' is treated in more detail on another page in a past issue. But L'Incroyable Pique-Nique now has its Web site, so you can find out more than I know now. For those who are forgetful, Bastille Day is on Friday, 14. July and the picnic will be 1000 kilometres long.

Monet At Marmottan - for the first time in Paris, the Musée Marmottan presents the complete collection of paintings by Claude Monet. A special section is set aside for the Giverny paintings. Degas, Caillebotte, Sisley and Gauguin are also present, but this is nearly a mono-Monet show. Until 31. December; from 10:00 to 17:00, except Mondays. Musée Marmottan, 2. Rue Louis-Boilly, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette. Info. Tel.: 01 42 24 07 02.

Soleils Mexicains - is a big show of 250 pieces that continues until 13. August. Featuring pre-Columbian works, up to the major talents of the 20th century. This is part of the '2000 In Paris' homage to the Americas. Until 13. August. At the Petit Palais, Avenue du Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elyséesposter: n cole, g benson, olympia Clemenceau. Except Monday, open from 10:00 to 17:40; to 20:00 on Thursdays. Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

L'Arts d'Afrique, d'Asie, d'Océanie et des Amériques - this is the first exhibition of the Quai Branly museum so it is housed in the newly re-opened Pavillon des Sessions in the Louvre. The 'artworks' featured are called 'primitive' by some, but the French have coined a new phrase; 'Arts Premiers.' The entry to the Louvre's new section is located to the south of the Carrousel Arch. Follow the signs to the Porte des Lions. Info. Tel.: 01 40 30 51 51.

2000 Nains à Bagatelle - with a bagatelle of 2000 garden dwarfs, zwergs, nains. For their first real exhibition in France, this is not all kitsch. See the Metropole feature. Except Tuesdays, open daily from 11:00 to 18:00. Until Sunday, 23. July. Bagatelle, Route de Neuilly, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métro: Pont de Neuilly, or bus 43. Park entry: 10 francs.

Les Esprits, l'Or et le Chamane - Gold had no monetary value to the original Americans, who used it for decorations. For the first time in France, 300 of the best examples from the Bogota's Museo del Oro show how the Americans saw death and the destiny of souls. Until Monday, 10. July. Reservations required from 10:00 to 13:00, come as you are from 13:00 to 20:00. Except Tuesdays, open daily and on Wednesdays until 22:00. Closed 1. May. Clemenceau entry, Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

L'Empire du Temps - from its own collections, the Louvre presents the legends of time, from antiquity to Christian and western eras. Also suggested is how to use a museum to kill time. This continues until Monday, 10. July. Open daily except Tuesdays; from 9:00 to 17:45; until 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. The Louvre, Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Louvre-Palais Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

Yiddish? Yiddish? - exhibition(s) continue until 8. October, with a little more Yiddish Atmosphère on 17. and 18. October. Ecran Yiddish shows movies, until Tuesday, 4. July. At the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville. Museum hours Monday to Friday from 11:00 to 18:00; and Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 86 60.

Nils-Udo - moves into the Musée Zadkine to take up temporary residence in its garden atelier in order sculpt some vegetation - up to five metres high. This exhibition continues until 24. September; from Tuesdays to Sundays; and including the holidays of 14. July and 15. August. Musée Zadkine, 100 bis, Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin.

23rd Foire Saint-Germain - this is some theatre, concerts, exhibitions and various other animations for all ages, with a program brochure of 30 pages. This 'Foire' actually began in 1176, but this year it continues until Monday, 3. July. The antiques section of this foire is centered at the Place Saint-Suplice. Daily from 11:00 to 20:00 and extended evenings on Friday, 23. June and Thursday, 28. June; until 22:00. Foire Saint-Germain, Paris 6. Info. Tel.: 01 43 29 61 04.

Gallimard et la Suisse - is an exhibition displaying a century of literary affiliation between the publisher and the country. Until Sunday, 2. July; from Wednesday to Sunday; from 14:00 to 19:00; at the Centre Culturel Suisse, 38. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Rambuteau. Info. Tel.: 01 42 71 38 38.

Mesurer l'Atmosphère - is a temporary 'weather' exhibition at the newly renovated the nuts and bolts museum. Musée des Arts et Métiers, 60. Rue Réaumur, Paris 3. Métro: Arts et Métiers. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00; until 21:00 on Thursdays. Entry: 35 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 82 20.

La Seine et Paris - is an exhibition that treats two subjects that are inseparable. The Seine has fed Paris and the river continues to play its important role - while Parisiansposter: a torts et a raison, thr montparnasse and visitors get to admire it. This exhibition can be seen until Friday, 7. July at the Mairie of the 4th arrondissement, at the Place Baudoyer. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. In both locations, from 12:00 to 18:00; Mondays to Friday.

Place Vendôme - is normally a ritzy, stone desert; but according to my own view it is full of a lot of dramatic and quite large sculptures. Their installation definitely improves the vast place. The sculptor's name is Louis Debré. Open 24 hours a day; seven days a week; but until when? Paris 1. Métro: Opéra.

Les Grands Boulevards - are getting some more constant drumroll these days and now another exhibition too. See 'Traditions et Innovations' from Monday to Friday; from 12:00 to 17:45 on weekdays and from 13:45 to 17:45 on weekends. Until Sunday, 30. July, at the Centre Historique des Archives Nationales - Hôtel de Soubise, 60. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot.

Bijoux Romantiques - were made in the time of George Sand, which is now considered 'romantic.' This exhibition of decorative jewelry featuring more than 200 pieces - some from the Musée des Arts Décoratifs - will be taking place until 1. October, at the Musée de la Vie Romantique. In the Hôtel Scheffer-Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Blanche or Pigalle. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

James Turrell - the Espace Electra is featuring James Turrell, who plays with light and space. Until Tuesday, 18. July. This event also marks the Espace Electra's 10th anniversary. At 6. Rue Récamier, Paris 7. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone. Info. Tel.: 01 53 63 23 45.

Mutations/Mode 1960/2000 - is an exhibition that takes a look at how fashion hasposter: 50 ans, thr huchette evolved in the last 40 years, with a special look at the textiles themselves and the industry that makes clothing. Until Sunday, 30. July; daily except Mondays and certain holidays; from 10:00 to 18:00. Musée Galliera, 10. Avenue Pierre-1er-de-Serbie, Paris 8. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. Info. Tel.: 01 47 20 85 23.

L'Empire du Temps - is an exhibition about the legends of time, the chaos of the origins of our grand myths, from antiquity upwards through time towards us. It also asks questions about the relationships between art and time. From the Louvre's own collection plus pieces from the Musée d'Orsay. Until Monday, 10. July. Except Tuesdays, daily from 9:00 to 17:45; to 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. At the Musée du Louvre, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

Haiti - Anges et Démons - plus voodoo graffiti, Holy Sun, metal Ogou, and contemporary 'magic' - in 300 pieces done between 1945 and today. 'Magic painting,' according to André Malraux. Until Friday, 30. June; from 10:00 to 19:00, daily. At the Halle Saint-Pierre, 2. Rue Ronsard, Paris 18. Métro Anvers. Info. Tel.: 01 42 58 72 89.

Le Canotage - while canoes are happening outside, in the interior there will be 'Intérieur' by Vlaminck, which the Musée Fournaise thinks he may have painted there. 'There' is the Ile des Impressionistes at Chatou, which has its boatworks, historic museum and a restaurant. Until 29. October. Musée Fournaise, Ile des Impressionistes, 78400 Chatou. Take RER line 'A' to Chatou-Croissy or Reuil-Malmaison. Open Thursday and Friday from 11:00 to 17:00 and on Saturday and Sunday, from 11:00 to 18:00. Info. Tel.: 01 34 80 63 22.

Paris' Museums Online - is not the official name for the new Web site that has been launched, to present Paris' own 15 museums.


Trois Imprimeurs d'Art - features three art printers, grouped together for a joint show of lithography, typography and engraving at the Mairie of the 10th. From Monday to Friday, from 10:00 to 18:00 and on Saturdays from 9:00 to 13:00. Until Friday, 30. June. At 72. Rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, Paris 10. Métro: Château d'Eau.

The 'Lost Angel' of Montparnasse - is Abraham Mintchine, who came from Kiev to Montparnasse in 1926, and remaind relatively discrete until he died near Toulon in 1931. This exhibition will present 34 paintings, done in the last years of his life. From Wednesday to Sunday, from 13:00 to 19:00. This exhibition continues until 10. September. At the 'Chemin du Montparnasse,' 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. Info. Tel.: 01 42 22 91 96.


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