Paris Eté 2000

photo: west tip, ile st louis

The Ile Saint-Louis has a lot of 'scene's packed onto
a small island in the Seine.

This Summer - Last Summer

Paris:- Saturday, 1. July 2000:- This year I have skipped town before the various bits of the early July events program have become available. This means this 'Scene' column does not have the thousands of items that constitute the vital information you need for Bastille Day.

About this time last year I had a pretty complete program for Bastilleposter: forum des images, les halles Day and the summer in Paris. Many items and events do not change much from year to year, so if you take a look at last years' issue numbers 427 and 428, then fiddle the calendar a bit, you will have an idea of what may be happening this year.

If this doesn't work and you are in Paris, get yourself copies of the small program magazines. These are not too hard to decipher. For more detail, look around to see if Télérama has a special summer edition.

For the offbeat, on the beat, and beat up, look for the 'Nova' Guide, 'Hors Serie #2.' It has 700 addresses, "With Tips In English" and what is more, they are "With Feeling!" Some of this 'feeling' was in their summer 1999 guide - but this is a collector's item now.

As for the rest of this absentee program, it is below. Bonne Vacances!



The items below are not necessarily 'new;' but they open this week's column.

Villette Jazz Festival - this one-week music festival features only the best, performing at Villette's park, Grand Halle and the nearby Cité de la Musique. In the first part of each evening, a choice of two big concerts; in the second part, three more modest concerts. Until Friday, 7. July. Several ticket formulas are available, possibly outlined at two Web sites. Cite-Musique and La Villette. Resa. Tel.: 01 40 03 75 75 or 01 44 84 44 84. Métro: Porte de Pantin.

Ecrits, Dessins, Papiers - Jean Cocteau was his own archivist, and has been followed by his adopted son, Edouard Dermit. Cocteau didn't write like you or me, he rewrote, re-designed his words and their placements on a page, over and over again. Paris' Bibliothèque Historique now has a large sampling of the poet's works, which will be on display until Sunday, 1. October. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 10:00 to 18:00; on Sunday from 12:00 to 19:00. Closed 14. July and 15. August. At the Bibliothèque Historique, 24. Rue Pavée, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 80 58.

20 Years of 813 - policières in French, krimis in German, crime novels inposter: misanthrope, moliere, lucernaire English - the '813' association was formed after the festival in Reims, in 1980, and has its full complement of 813 members. Maurice Leblanc was '813,' and this is the award for the year's best novel, comic book, film and translator. Until Saturday, 9. September; from Tuesday to Friday, from 14:00 to 18:00; Saturdays from 10:00 to 17:00. This exhibition is at the Bilipo, 48-50. Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, Paris 5. Métro: Cardinal Lemoine. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 93 00.

Aventures Architecturales - not all new architecture is bad even if this seems to be the case. The current show, which continues until the end of September, shows off Paris' best modern works. Open Tuesday to Saturday, from 10:30 to 18:30; Sundays from 11:00 to 19:00. At the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 00 97.

La Dame de la Mer - Anita Conti was one of the first woman oceanographers; one who sailed all of the seas, from 1935 until the '60's. This is an exhibition of her photos, taken of the world of deep-sea fishing. From Wednesday, 7. July until Sunday, 10. September. Except Mondays, open from 11:30 to 18:30. At the Pavillon des Arts, Les Halles, Porte Rambuteau, Terrace Lautréamont, Paris 1. RER and métro: Châtelet. InfoTel.: 01 42 33 82 50.

This item closes the opening 'new' events for this week. You will find some other new items below. Again, lack of time has not permitted me to form a text to go with each of the images - but they do represent current events in Paris.

6th Jeux des Sapeurs-Pompiers - is merely the international sports days for firemen from all over the world, to be held on the Champ de Mars, from Friday 6. July until Thursday, 13. July. Features a firetruck parade, other feats, including scaling the Tour Eiffel; plus a 'grand bal' on Thursday evening, 13. July - called a 'Fireman's Ball.'

Quartier d'Eté - more than 90 events make up this summer's Paris program of artistic events, to be performed on streets, places and square throughout the city. This program goes on more or less non-stop from Saturday, 15. July until Tuesday, 15. August. Some of these events are free and others are not. Paris' own Web site should have complete details. InfoTel.: 01 44 94 98 00.

Ciné l'Eté - this event used to be called 'Aout au Ciné' but it has been extended, to begin on Saturday, 15. July. You need to get a card called 'Paris Ciné l'Eté' from the reception office in the Hôtel de Ville on the Rue de Rivoli, or at any Mairie, RATP offices, and some métro stations. By being able to prove you are under 25, the card allows entries to 150 cinemas for 25 francs. The cards will be available after Monday, 3. July and the program continues until 31. August.

Walk-In Outside Movies - are now a tradition at the Parc de la Villette, which has a sit-down place for you to watch free movies on an inflated screen. Films roll from Saturday, 15. July until 3. September; and start about 22:00 when it's dark enough. Prairie du Triangle, Parc de la Villette. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 40 03 75 75.

Prix Arcimboldo - Catherine Ikam received a special jury mention for her work, which is on show until Sunday 16. July. For digital images Christophe Clark and Virginie Pougnaud received special mentions. Their works are on view from Wednesday, 19. July until Sunday, 3. September. Open Wednesday to Sunday, fromposter: fais un enfant, thr dejazet 11:00 to 19:45. La Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, or 82. Rue François-Miron, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 78 00.

L'Incroyable Pique-Nique - This coming Bastille Day's 'incredible picnic' was treated in more detail on another page in a past issue. But L'Incroyable Pique-Nique now has its Web site, so you can find out more than I know. For those who are forgetful, Bastille Day is on Friday, 14. July and the picnic will be 1000 kilometres long. There may be a few more words about it in this issue too.

Salon Naifs et Primitifs - will feature more than 200 works by about 40 international artists. From Sunday, 10. September until 3. October. At the Espace Saint-Martin, 256. Rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, Paris 10. Métro: Louis Blanc. See the Web site for Naifs et Primitifs.

Monet At Marmottan - for the first time in Paris, the Musée Marmottan presents the complete collection of paintings by Claude Monet. A special section is set aside for the Giverny paintings. Degas, Caillebotte, Sisley and Gauguin are also present, but this is nearly a mono-Monet show. Until 31. December; from 10:00 to 17:00, except Mondays. Musée Marmottan, 2. Rue Louis-Boilly, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette. Info. Tel.: 01 42 24 07 02.

Soleils Mexicains - is a big show of 250 pieces that continues until 13. August. Featuring pre-Columbian works, up to the major talents of the 20th century. This is part of the '2000 In Paris' homage to the Americas. Until 13. August. At the Petit Palais, Avenue du Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. Except Monday, open from 10:00 to 17:40; to 20:00 on Thursdays. Info. Tel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

L'Arts d'Afrique, d'Asie, d'Océanie et des Amériques - this is the first exhibition of the Quai Branly museum so it is housed in the newly re-opened Pavillon des Sessions in the Louvre. The 'artworks' featured are called 'primitive' by some, but the French have coined a new phrase; 'Arts Premiers.' The entry to the Louvre's new section is located to the south of the Carrousel Arch. Follow the signs to the Porte des Lions. Info. Tel.: 01 40 30 51 51.

2000 Nains à Bagatelle - with a bagatelle of 2000 garden dwarfs, zwergs, nains. For their first real exhibition in France, this is not all kitsch. See the Metropole feature. Except Tuesdays, open daily from 11:00 to 18:00. Until Sunday, 23. July. Bagatelle, Route de Neuilly, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métro: Pont de Neuilly, or bus 43. Park entry: 10 francs.

Les Esprits, l'Or et le Chamane - Gold had no monetary value to the original Americans, who used it for decorations. For the first time in France, 300 of the best examples from theposter: emilefork, the lucernaire Bogota's Museo del Oro show how the Americans saw death and the destiny of souls. Until Monday, 10. July. Reservations required from 10:00 to 13:00, come as you are from 13:00 to 20:00. Except Tuesdays, open daily and on Wednesdays until 22:00. Closed 1. May. Clemenceau entry, Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

L'Empire du Temps - from its own collections, the Louvre presents the legends of time, from antiquity to Christian and western eras. Also suggested is how to use a museum to kill time. This continues until Monday, 10. July. Open daily except Tuesdays; from 9:00 to 17:45; until 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. The Louvre, Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Louvre-Palais Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

Versailles: Summer Events - as in past years, Versailles' summer events do not vary much, but remain spectacular. 'Les Nouveau Plaisirs' features ballet by Maurice Béjart, set mostly to music by Mozart and Rossini. The 'Fêtes de Nuit' are at the Neptune basin and take place on Saturday evenings. In July they are the 1, 8, 22. et 29. at 22:30. There is one on 26. August at 21:30, and on 2. and 9. September, also at 21:30. 'Les Grandes Eaux Musicales' are every Sunday until 8. October, and include Tuesday, 15. August. For more details, check out the Musée du Château de Versailles Web site.To get to Versailles take the RER 'C' line, to Versailles R-G, or take the SNCF train from the Gare Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01 30 83 77 88.

Yiddish? Yiddish? - exhibition(s) continue until 8. October, with a little more Yiddish Atmosphère on 17. and 18. October. At the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville. Museum hours Monday to Friday from 11:00 to 18:00; and Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 86 60.

Nils-Udo - moves into the Musée Zadkine to take up temporary residence in its garden atelier in order sculpt some vegetation - up to five metres high. This exhibition continues until 24. September; from Tuesdays to Sundays; and including the holidays of 14. July and 15. August. Musée Zadkine, 100 bis, Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin.

Mesurer l'Atmosphère - is a temporary 'weather' exhibition at the newly renovated the nuts and bolts museum. Musée des Arts et Métiers, 60. Rue Réaumur, Paris 3. Métro: Arts et Métiers. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00; until 21:00 on Thursdays. Entry: 35 francs. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 82 20.

La Seine et Paris - is an exhibition that treats two subjects that are inseparable. The Seine has fed Paris and the river continues to play its important role - while Parisians and visitors get to admire it. This exhibition can be seen until next Friday, 7. July at the Mairie of the 4th arrondissement, at the Place Baudoyer. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. In both locations, from 12:00 to 18:00; Mondays to Friday.

Place Vendôme - is normally a ritzy, stone desert; but according to my own view it is full of a lot of dramatic and quite large sculptures. Their installation definitely improves the vast place. The sculptor's name is Louis Debré. Open 24 hours a day; seven days a week; but until when? Paris 1. Métro: Opéra.

Les Grands Boulevards - are getting some more constant drumroll these days and now another exhibition too. See 'Traditions et Innovations' from Monday to Friday; from 12:00 to 17:45 onposter: thr nationale de la colline weekdays and from 13:45 to 17:45 on weekends. Until Sunday, 30. July, at the Centre Historique des Archives Nationales - Hôtel de Soubise, 60. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot.

Bijoux Romantiques - were made in the time of George Sand, which is now considered 'romantic.' This exhibition of decorative jewelry featuring more than 200 pieces - some from the Musée des Arts Décoratifs - will be taking place until 1. October, at the Musée de la Vie Romantique. In the Hôtel Scheffer-Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Blanche or Pigalle. Info. Tel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

James Turrell - the Espace Electra is featuring James Turrell, who plays with light and space. Until Tuesday, 18. July. This event also marks the Espace Electra's 10th anniversary. At 6. Rue Récamier, Paris 7. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone. Info. Tel.: 01 53 63 23 45.

Mutations/Mode 1960/2000 - is an exhibition that takes a look at how fashion has evolved in the last 40 years, with a special look at the textiles themselves and the industry that makes clothing. Until Sunday, 30. July; daily except Mondays and certain holidays; from 10:00 to 18:00. Musée Galliera, 10. Avenue Pierre-1er-de-Serbie, Paris 8. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. Info. Tel.: 01 47 20 85 23.

L'Empire du Temps - is an exhibition about the legends of time, the chaos of the origins of our grand myths, from antiquity upwards through time towards us. It also asks questions about the relationships between art and time. From the Louvre's own collection plus pieces from the Musée d'Orsay. Until next Monday, 10. July. Except Tuesdays, daily from 9:00 to 17:45; to 21:45 on Mondays and Wednesdays. At the Musée du Louvre, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. Info. Tel.: 01 40 20 50 50.

Le Canotage - while canoes are happening outside, in the interior there will be 'Intérieur' by Vlaminck, which the Musée Fournaise thinks he may have painted there. 'There' is the Ile des Impressionistes at Chatou, which has its boatworks, historic museum and a restaurant. This is great for getting an impression of the impression the Impressionists had about it all.

Until 29. October. At the Musée Fournaise, Ile des Impressionistes, 78400 Chatou. Take RER line 'A' to Chatou-Croissy or Reuil-Malmaison. Open Thursday and Friday from 11:00 to 17:00 and on Saturday and Sunday, from 11:00 to 18:00. Info. Tel.: 01 34 80 63 22.

Paris' Museums Online - is not the official name for the new Web site that has been launched, to present Paris' own 15 museums.


Le Monde Dans la Tête - what else can you expect when 50 international modern artists are around? Big names, big stuff, until 29. October. Open Tuesday to Friday, from 10:00 to 17:30, on weekends from 10:00 to 18:45. Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Alma-Marceau InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

The 'Lost Angel' of Montparnasse - is Abraham Mintchine, who came from Kiev to Montparnasse in 1926, and remained relatively discrete until he died near Toulon in 1931. This exhibition will present 34 paintings, done in the last years of his life. From Wednesday to Sunday, from 13:00 to 19:00. This exhibition continues until 10. September. At the 'Chemin du Montparnasse,' 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. Info. Tel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

Jean Colin - started out doing posters for films until 1950, then branched out into posters for industry and publicity. Until Saturday, 22. July, at the Bibliothèque Forney, 1. Rue du Figuier, Paris 4. Métro: Pont Marie. Info. Tel.: 01 42 78 14 60.

La Comédie Humaine en Peinture - illustration of texts by Balzac, too large to be printed, by Serge Kantorowicz. Balzac, a failed printer, did want his books illustrated - and the Edition Furne of the La Comédie Humaine is one result. When he died in 1850 about 110 engravings had been done, by the best there was. These serve as a counterpoint to Serge Kantorowicz' works. From Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 17:40; until 24. September; at the Maison de Blzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: Passy Info. Tel.: 01 55 74 41 80.


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