Paris In Deep Drowse

photo: at ease at bastille

Across from the Opéra at Bastille, nobody is
going anywhere.

Not 'All Quiet' On the Seine Front

Paris:- Saturday, 22. July 2000:- When I got back from my little holiday, I expected the only thing I would have to do with this column would be to clip 'dead' items out of it. After Bastille Day, Paris is supposed to go into deep drowse.

But just to have myself 'covered' a bit, I did the usual rounds to pick up the usual postcards, brochures, flyers and other bumpf concerning current and coming events. Result: a solid kilo of paper.

Added to all the press releases - mostly about stuff beginning after the end of August - I could, if given enough time, expand this column to twice its length. This, I am not going to do. What's here is enough.



The items below are not necessarily 'new;' but they open this week's column.

L'Octuor de France - offers 10 chamber music concerts in the Orangerie in the Parc de Bagatelle. Brahams, Ravel, Haydn, Mozart, Schubert;two entry prices: 100 francs for afternoons and 150 francs for candlelight - plus 10 francs for entry to the park. Until Tuesday, 15. August. Parc de Bagatelle, Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Métro: Pont de Neuilly, plus bus 43, plus 10 minutes' walk. InfoTel.:01 42 29 07 83.

Berkshire Youth Choir - and the Berkshire Girls Choir are choirs which feature sacred music from Purcell, Vivaldi, Faure and many more. On Thursday, 27. July at 12:30. At the American Cathedral in the Avenue George V, Paris 8. Métro: Alma-Marceau. There is no entry charge, but donations to the church will be welcome.

Cuba Cubana - is Cuban stuff in Paris, including lots of 'Happy Hours,' which are between 21:00 and 22:00. Then there's somethingbrochure: les eglises a paris about DJ's and 'every Friday,' from Friday, 28. July until Friday, 8. September. All of it at Glaz'Art, 7 to 15. Avenue de la Villette, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 40 36 55 65.

Le Siècle Métro - is not about this magazine, but about the 100th birthday of Paris' underground transport system. The Maison de la RATP has an exhibition about itself, continuing until 1. January 2001. Except Saturdays,, open from 10:00 to 18:00 daily. At 189. Rue de Bercy, Paris 12. Métro: Gare de Lyon, where 10 bus lines also have stops. Toll InfoTel.: 08 36 68 77 14. See 'Métro rides' below.

Fugues Impressionistes - is an 'escape' brochure put out by the Ile-de-France, intended to get you to run around Luzarches, Auvers-sur-Oise, Sannois, Pontoise and Osny. After tiring of impressionism, then you are supposed to take a break at the 'Guinguettes des Bords de Marne,' which are on the opposite side of Paris. 'Sundays in Canoes,' mentioned for Chatou below, also includes Marly-Le-Roi and Rueil-Malmaison. Then you get to the 'Paysagists,' who are scattered around Barbizon and Moret-sur-Loing. Finally, there several Paris museums - Orsay, Marmottan, Montmartre and two nightclubs. Find out more at the Espace Tourisme d'Ile-de-France, in the Carrousel du Louvre under the Pyramid. InfoTel.: 08 03 81 80 00.

Picasso's Sculpture - is an exhibition, largely postered in the métro, currently at the Centre Pompidou. You know who Picasso is and you know what sculpture is, so this is just an excuse to put in the culture factory's Web URL - which may be new. Otherwise, the place is open from 11:00 to 21:00 or 22:00; but never open on Tuesday. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

L'Eté Satie - is a series of exhibitions and concerts running all summer, which are intended to get you out of the casinos in Normandy. 'Satie sur Scène' is at the Musée Eugène Boudin in Honfleur and 'Variations Satie' is at the Abbaye-aux-Dames in Caen; the first until 18. September and the second until 10. September. Most of the concerts are in Honfleur, at the Greniers à Sel. InfoTel.: 02 31 09 06 00. Other events are programmed for September; InfoTel.: 02 31 85 73 16.

Quartier d'Eté - more than 90 events make up this summer's Paris program of artistic events, to be performed on streets, places and square throughout the city. Thisbrochure: octour de france, bagatelle program goes on more or less non-stop until Tuesday, 15. August. Some of these events are free and others are not. Paris' own Web site should have complete details. InfoTel.: 01 44 94 98 00.

Ciné l'Eté - this event used to be called 'Aout au Ciné' but it has been extended, to begin in July. You need to get a card called 'Paris Ciné l'Eté' from the reception office in the Hôtel de Ville on the Rue de Rivoli, or at any Mairie, RATP offices, and some métro stations. By being able to prove you are under 25, the card allows entries to 150 cinemas for 25 francs per film. The cards are still available and the program continues until 31. August.

Walk-In Outside Movies - are now a tradition at the Parc de la Villette, which has a sit-down place for you to watch free movies on an inflated screen. Films roll nightly until Sunday, 3. September; and start about 22:00 when it's dark enough. Deck-chairs are available too, if you don't like sitting on grass. Prairie du Triangle, Parc de la Villette. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 40 03 75 75.

This item closes the opening 'new' events for this week. You will find some other new items below. Again, lack of time has not permitted me to form a text to go with each of the images - but they do represent current events in Paris.

This week this section is under-represented, because I think I've hit this column's limit by just putting in a few extra items that are currently on. Watch this space for the time I get the courage to put in some of the events starting in September.

Salon Naifs et Primitifs - will feature more than 200 works by about 40 international artists. From Sunday, 10. September until 3. October. At the Espace Saint-Martin, 256. Rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, Paris 10. Métro: Louis Blanc. See the Web site for Naifs et Primitifs.

Monet At Marmottan - for the first time in Paris, the Musée Marmottan presents the complete collection of paintings by Claude Monet. A special section is set aside for the Giverny paintings. Degas, Caillebotte, Sisley and Gauguin are alsobrochure: fugues en ile de france present, but this is nearly a mono-Monet show. Until Sunday, 31. December; from 10:00 to 17:00, except Mondays. Musée Marmottan, 2. Rue Louis-Boilly, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette. InfoTel.: 01 42 24 07 02.

Soleils Mexicains - is a big show of 250 pieces that continues until 13. August. Featuring pre-Columbian works, up to the major talents of the 20th century. This is part of the '2000 In Paris' homage to the Americas. Until Sunday, 13. August. At the Petit Palais, Avenue du Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. Except Monday, open from 10:00 to 17:40; to 20:00 on Thursdays. InfoTel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

L'Arts d'Afrique, d'Asie, d'Océanie et des Amériques - this is the first exhibition of the future Quai Branly museum so it is housed in the newly re-opened Pavillon des Sessions in the Louvre. The 'artworks' featured are called 'primitive' by some, but the French have coined a new phrase; 'Arts Premiers.' The entry to the Louvre's new section is located to the south of the Carrousel Arch. Follow the signs to the Porte des Lions. InfoTel.: 01 40 30 51 51.

La Dame de la Mer - Anita Conti was one of the first woman oceanographers; one who sailed all of the seas, from 1935 until the '60's. This is an exhibition of her photos, taken of the world of deep-sea fishing. Until Sunday, 10. September. Except Mondays, open from 11:30 to 18:30. At the Pavillon des Arts, Les Halles, Porte Rambuteau, Terrace Lautréamont, Paris 1. RER and métro: Châtelet. InfoTel.: 01 42 33 82 50.

Versailles: Summer Events - as in past years, Versailles' summer events do not vary much, but remain spectacular. 'Les Nouveau Plaisirs' features ballet by Maurice Béjart, set mostly to music by Mozart and Rossini. The 'Fêtes de Nuit' are at the Neptune basin and take place on Saturday evenings. In July they are on the 29th at 22:30. There is one on 26. August at 21:30, and on 2. and 9. September, also at 21:30. 'Les Grandes Eaux Musicales' are every Sunday until 8. October, and include Tuesday, 15. August. For more details, check out the Musée du Château de Versailles Web site. To get to Versailles take the RER 'C' line, to Versailles R-G, or take the SNCF train from the Gare Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01 30 83 77 88.

Yiddish? Yiddish? - the exhibition continues until Sunday, 8. October, with a little more Yiddish Atmosphère on 17. and 18. October. At the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville. Museum hours Monday to Friday from 11:00 to 18:00; and Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 86 60.

Nils-Udo - moves into the Musée Zadkine to take up temporary residence in its garden atelier in order sculpt some vegetation - up to five metres high. This exhibition continues until Monday, 24. September; from Tuesdays to Sundays; and including the holiday Tuesday, 15. August. Musée Zadkine, 100 bis, Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

Mesurer l'Atmosphère - is a temporary 'weather' exhibition at the newly renovated the nuts and bolts museum. Musée des Arts et Métiers, 60. Rue Réaumur, Paris 3.brochure: roue libre, ratp, monoprix Métro: Arts et Métiers. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00; until 21:00 on Thursdays. Entry: 35 francs. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 82 20.

Place Vendôme - is normally a ritzy, stone desert; but according to my own view it is full of a lot of dramatic and quite large sculptures. Their installation definitely improves the vast place. The sculptor's name is Louis Debré. Open 24 hours a day; seven days a week; but until when? Paris 1. Métro: Opéra.

Les Grands Boulevards - are getting some more constant drumroll these days and now another exhibition too. See 'Traditions et Innovations' from Monday to Friday; from 12:00 to 17:45 on weekdays and from 13:45 to 17:45 on weekends. Until Sunday, 30. July, at the Centre Historique des Archives Nationales - Hôtel de Soubise, 60. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot.

Bijoux Romantiques - were made in the time of George Sand, which is now considered 'romantic.' This exhibition of decorative jewelry featuring more than 200 pieces - some from the Musée des Arts Décoratifs - will be taking place until Sunday, 1. October, at the Musée de la Vie Romantique. In the Hôtel Scheffer-Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Mutations/Mode 1960/2000 - is an exhibition that takes a look at how fashion has evolved in the last 40 years, with a special look at the textiles themselves and the industry that makes clothing. Until Sunday, 30. July; daily except Mondays and certain holidays; from 10:00 to 18:00. Musée Galliera, 10. Avenue Pierre-1er-de-Serbie, Paris 8. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 47 20 85 23.

Le Canotage - while canoes are happening outside, in the interior there will be 'Intérieur' by Vlaminck, which the Musée Fournaise thinks he may have painted there. 'There' is the Ile des Impressionistes at Chatou, which has its boatworks, historic museum and a restaurant. This is great for getting an impression of the impression the Impressionists had about it all.

Until Sunday, 29. October. At the Musée Fournaise, Ile des Impressionistes, 78400 Chatou. Take RER line 'A' to Chatou-Croissy or Reuil-Malmaison. Open Thursday and Friday from 11:00 to 17:00 and on Saturday and Sunday, from 11:00 to 18:00. InfoTel.: 01 34 80 63 22.

Paris' Museums Online - is not the official name for the new Web site that has been launched to present Paris' own 15 museums.


Aventures Architecturales à Paris - is subtitled 'The Art In the Rulers' and is not all new architecture is ugly even if this seems to be the case. The current show, which continues until Sunday, 1. October, shows off Paris' best modern works. Just inside the entry, see the 'Newspaper Bar' for a spacy view of the world's papers - but without cocktails. Open Tuesday to Saturday, from 10:30 to 18:30; Sundays from 11:00 to 19:00. At the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 00 97.

Le Monde Dans la Tête - what else can you expect when 50 international modern artists are around? Big names, big stuff, until Sunday, 29. October. Open Tuesday to Friday, from 10:00 to 17:30, on weekends from 10:00 to 18:45. Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Alma-Marceau InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

The 'Lost Angel' of Montparnasse - is Abraham Mintchine, who came from Kiev to Montparnasse in 1926, and remained relatively discrete until he died near Toulon in 1931. This exhibitionposter: siecle metro will present 34 paintings, done in the last years of his life. From Wednesday to Sunday, from 13:00 to 19:00. This exhibition continues until Sunday, 10. September. At the 'Chemin du Montparnasse,' 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

La Comédie Humaine en Peinture - illustration of texts by Balzac, too large to be printed, by Serge Kantorowicz. Balzac, a failed printer, did want his books illustrated - and the Edition Furne of the La Comédie Humaine is one result. When he died in 1850 about 110 engravings had been done, by the best there was. These serve as a counterpoint to Serge Kantorowicz' works. From Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 17:40; until Sunday, 24. September; at the Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: Passy InfoTel.: 01 55 74 41 80.

Art et Cigare - 50 international artists were asked to light up a Havana and they did so with enthusiasm. This exhibition continues until Monday, 31. July. Open from Tuesday to Friday, from 11:00 to 13:00 and 14:30 to 19:30; on Saturdys from 11:00 non-stop to 19:30. At the Galerie Flak, 8. Rue des Beaux-Arts, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon, Mabillon or Saint-Germain-des-Prés. InfoTel.: 01 46 33 77 77.


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