The Short(er) Version

photo: pool, pyramid, louvre

This is the Louvre - what are these people
waiting for?

Of the August Program

Paris:- Saturday, 5. August 2000:- Last week I wrote here that nothing is supposed to be happening because it is summer. If it is not summer exactly, it is certainly August. Nothing much happens during this torpid month.

Who cares? By putting in no more of the summer's items, I advance the hour for taking it easy like everyone else. Until I feel like looking at the material I've received for the fall program you are not going to see much new here.



The items below are not necessarily 'new' - they were here last week - but they open this week's column.

Bals-Concerts - mentioned in a feature last week - and again this week - don't miss the free Sunday concerts at the Kiosque à Musique at La Villette each Sunday starting at 17:30. Métro: halfway between Porte de la Villette and Porte de Pantin. Drinks, snacks and toilets available.

Calcinculo - Feria-Musica - is in the Grande Halle, also at La Villette. This is some sort or aerial-ballet, suitable for all ages. Until Saturday, 9. September; from Wednesday to Saturday at 20:00; on Sundays at 16:00. Adults, 110 F. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 40 03 75 75.

Nacao Pernambuco - is also a summer of Brazilian music, with the Maracatu Naçao Company. Until Saturday, 9. September. At Le Divan du Monde, 75. Rue des Martyrs, Paris 18. Métro: Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 44 92 77 66.

Quartier d'Eté - more than 90 events make up this summer's Paris program of artistic events, to be performed on streets, places and square throughout the city. This programposter: abbaye royal, royaumont, val d'oise goes on more or less non-stop until Tuesday, 15. August. Some of these events are free and others are not. Paris' own Web site should have complete details. InfoTel.: 01 44 94 98 00.

Quartiers d'Eté - More - Dance - Triton 2 TER, the Jardin des Tuileries, except Sundays, at 22:00. Métro: Tuileries. Highly praised by 'club' member Anthony Dainora. Until Sunday, 17. September, 14th Festival Musique en l'Ile, at the Saint-Louis-en-l'Ile church and the Saint-Germain-des-Prés church. InfoTel.: 01 44 62 00 55.

This item closes the 'opening' events for this week. You will find some other new items below. Again, lack of time has not permitted me to form a text to go with each of the images - but they do represent current events in Paris - especially the movies.

Again this week this section is under-reported, because I started this column's decline by just not putting in any extra items that are currently on. Watch this space for when I get the courage to put in the fall's coming events.

Versailles: Summer Events - Versailles' summer events do not vary much, but remain spectacular. 'Les Nouveau Plaisirs' features ballet by Maurice Béjart, set mostly to music by Mozart and Rossini. The 'Fêtes de Nuit' are at the Neptune basin and take place on Saturday evenings. There is one on 26. August at 21:30, and on 2. and 9. September, also at 21:30. 'Les Grandes Eaux Musicales' are every Sunday until 8. October, and include Tuesday, 15. August. For more details, check out the Musée du Château de Versailles Web site. To get to Versailles take the RER 'C' line, to Versailles R-G, or take the SNCF train from the Gare Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01 30 83 77 88.

Salon Naifs et Primitifs - will feature more than 200 works by about 40 international artists. From Sunday, 10. September until 3. October. At the Espace Saint-Martin, 256. Rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, Paris 10. Métro: Louis Blanc. See the Web site for Naifs et Primitifs.

The Rau Collection - Fra Angelico to Bonnard - 106 major paintings by El Greco, Tiepolo, Millet, Fragonard, Pissarro, Degas, Cézanne, Monet, Renoir, to name a few. Until Thursday, 4. January 2001. Monday to Wednesday, from 11:00 to 20:00; rest of the week until 22:00. Musée du Luxembourg, 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Suplice or Mabillon. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 25 95.

Picasso's Sculpture - is an exhibition, largely postered in the métro, currently at the Centre Pompidou. You know who Picasso is and you know what sculpture is, so this is just an excuse to put in the culture factory's Web URL - which may be new. Otherwise, the place is open from 11:00 to 21:00 or 22:00; but never open on Tuesday. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Pierre Bonnard - One on the summer's events, featuring 90 paintings, from Nabi to nudes. Until Monday, 9. October; from 11:00 to 18:00, until 21:00 on Thursdays. Closed Tuesday. Musée Maillol, Fondation Dina Vierny, 59 - 61. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Rue du Bac. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 59 58.

Monet At Marmottan - an exhibition showing a fairly complete collection of paintings by Claude Monet. A special section is set aside for the Giverny paintings. Degas, Caillebotte, Sisley and Gauguin are also present, but this is nearly a mono-Monet show. Until Sunday, 31. December; from 10:00 to 17:00, except Mondays. Musée Marmottan, 2. Rue Louis-Boilly, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette. InfoTel.: 01 42 24 07 02.

Soleils Mexicains - is a big show of 250 pieces that continues until Sunday, 13. August. Featuring pre-Columbian works, up to the major talents of the 20th century. This is part of the '2000 In Paris' homage to the Americas. Until Sunday, 13. August. At the Petit Palais, Avenue du Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. Except Monday, open from 10:00 to 17:40; to 20:00 on Thursdays. InfoTel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

L'Arts d'Afrique, d'Asie, d'Océanie et des Amériques - this is the first exhibition of the future Quai Branly museum so it is housed in the newly re-opened Pavillon des Sessions in the Louvre. The 'artworks' featured are called 'primitive' by some, but the French have coined a new phrase; 'Arts Premiers.' The entry to the Louvre's new section is located to the south of the Carrousel Arch. Follow the signs to the Porte des Lions. InfoTel.: 01 40 30 51 51.

Eugène Delacroix - the national museum devoted to this painter occupies part of his personal apartment. After quitting his atelier in the Rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, Delacroix moved into the Rue de Fürstenberg in 1857, in order to work onposter: empire du temps, expo louvre Saint-Suplice. Open from 9:30 until 16:30 daily except Tuesday. Musée National Eugène Delacroix, 6. Rue de Fürstenberg, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Suplice. InfoTel.: 01 44 41 86 50.

La Dame de la Mer - Anita Conti was one of the first woman oceanographers; one who sailed all of the seas, from 1935 until the '60's. This is an exhibition of her photos, taken of the world of deep-sea fishing. Until Sunday, 10. September. Except Mondays, open from 11:30 to 18:30. At the Pavillon des Arts, Les Halles, Porte Rambuteau, Terrace Lautréamont, Paris 1. RER and métro: Châtelet. InfoTel.: 01 42 33 82 50.

L'Art dans la Pub - is an exhibition showing 'art' in advertising; meaning art borrowed and not 'advertising art.' Until Sunday, 27. August. Except Monday, open 11:00 to 18:00; on weekends from 10:00 to 18:00, and late on Wednesdays until 21:00. Musée de la Publicité, in the Arts Décoratifs, 107. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais Royal-Louvre. InfoTel.: 01 44 55 57 50.

Yiddish? Yiddish? - the exhibition continues until Sunday, 8. October, with a little more Yiddish Atmosphère on 17. and 18. October. At the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville. Museum hours Monday to Friday from 11:00 to 18:00; and Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 86 60.

Nils-Udo - moves into the Musée Zadkine to take up temporary residence in its garden atelier in order sculpt some vegetation - up to five metres high. This exhibition continues until Monday, 24. September; from Tuesdays to Sundays; and including the holiday Tuesday, 15. August. Musée Zadkine, 100 bis, Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

Mesurer l'Atmosphère - is a temporary 'weather' exhibition at the newly renovated and worth a visit nuts and bolts museum. After ten years of being mostly closed and about four years of being all closed, a major Paris museum has reopened. It is full of the tools and machines - many original - that helped make our modern world. A report about my visit to it is featured in an issue earlier this year.

Musée des Arts et Métiers, 60. Rue Réaumur, Paris 3. Métro: Arts et Métiers. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00; until 21:00 on Thursdays. Entry: 35 francs. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 82 20.

Bijoux Romantiques - were made in the time of George Sand, which is now considered 'romantic.' This exhibition of decorative jewelry featuring more than 200 pieces - some from the Musée des Arts Décoratifs - will be taking place until Sunday, 1. October, at the Musée de la Vie Romantique. In the Hôtel Scheffer-Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Le Canotage - while canoes are happening outside, in the interior there will be 'Intérieur' by Vlaminck, which the Musée Fournaise thinks he may have painted there. 'There' is the Ile des Impressionistes at Chatou, which has its boatworks, historic museum and a restaurant. Until Sunday, 29. October. At the Musée Fournaise, Ile des Impressionistes, 78400 Chatou. Take RER line 'A' to Chatou-Croissy or Reuil-Malmaison. Open Thursday and Friday from 11:00 to 17:00 and on Saturday and Sunday, from 11:00 to 18:00. InfoTel.: 01 34 80 63 22.


Aventures Architecturales à Paris - is subtitled 'The Art In the Rulers' and is not all new architecture is ugly even if this seems to be the case. The current show, which continues until Sunday, 1. October, shows off Paris' best modern works. Open Tuesday to Saturday, from 10:30 to 18:30; Sundaysposter: jeu de paume, expo chaissac from 11:00 to 19:00. At the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 00 97.

Le Monde Dans la Tête - what else can you expect when 50 international modern artists are around? Big names, big flashy stuff, until Sunday, 29. October. Open Tuesday to Friday, from 10:00 to 17:30, on weekends from 10:00 to 18:45. Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Alma-Marceau InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

The 'Lost Angel' of Montparnasse - is Abraham Mintchine, who came from Kiev to Montparnasse in 1926, and remained relatively discrete until he died near Toulon in 1931. This exhibition will present 34 paintings, done in the last years of his life. From Wednesday to Sunday, from 13:00 to 19:00. This exhibition continues until Sunday, 10. September. At the 'Chemin du Montparnasse,' 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

La Comédie Humaine en Peinture - illustration of texts by Balzac, too large to be printed, by Serge Kantorowicz. Balzac, a failed printer, did want his books illustrated - and the Edition Furne of the La Comédie Humaine is one result. When he died in 1850 about 110 engravings had been done. These serve as a counterpoint to Serge Kantorowicz' works. From Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 17:40; until Sunday, 24. September; at the Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: Passy InfoTel.: 01 55 74 41 80.

Atget, le Pionnier - his pioneering photographs have become photographic treasures; an exhibition of them continues until Sunday, 17. September. Except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00. Hôtel de Sully, 62. Rue Saint-Antoine, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 42 74 47 75.

Prix Arcimboldo - For digital images Christophe Clark and Virginie Pougnaud received special mentions. Their works are on view until Sunday, 3. September. Open Wednesday to Sunday, from 11:00 to 19:45. La Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, or 82. Rue François-Miron, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 78 00.

Exodes - for six years and through 40 countries, the photographer Sebastião Salgado sought the story of the world's refugees. Until Sunday, 3. September, at the Maison Européenne de la Photo, 5-7. rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

Désirs de Rivages - is the name of the first marine photographic biannual, with homage to be paid to René Jacques. This exhibition is open from 10:00 to 17:50 daily except Tuesdays, until Monday, 18. September. At the Musée de la Marine, in the Palais de Chaillot, Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro. InfoTel.: 01 53 65 69 69.

L'Eté Satie - is a series of exhibitions and concerts running all summer, which are intended to get you out of the casinos in Normandy. 'Satie sur Scène' is at the Musée Eugène Boudin in Honfleur and 'Variationsposter: expo le monde des deserts, rendez vous toyota Satie' is at the Abbaye-aux-Dames in Caen; the first until Monday, 18. September and the second until Sunday, 10. September. Most of the concerts are in Honfleur, at the Greniers à Sel. InfoTel.: 02 31 09 06 00. Other events are programmed for September; InfoTel.: 02 31 85 73 16.

L'Octuor de France - offers 10 chamber music concerts in the Orangerie in the Parc de Bagatelle. Brahams, Ravel, Haydn, Mozart, Schubert;two entry prices: 100 francs for afternoons and 150 francs for candlelight - plus 10 francs for entry to the park. Until Tuesday, 15. August. Parc de Bagatelle, Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Métro: Pont de Neuilly, plus bus 43, plus 10 minutes' walk. InfoTel.:01 42 29 07 83.

Cuba Cubana - is Cuban stuff in Paris, including lots of 'Happy Hours,' which are between 21:00 and 22:00. Then there's something about DJ's and 'every Friday,' until Friday, 8. September. All of it at Glaz'Art, 7 to 15. Avenue de la Villette, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 40 36 55 65.

Comédie. Pas Moi - concerns two short plays by Samuel Beckett, which run about one hour together. Directed by Christian Rist, with Sylvie Chenus and Catherine Laborde, plus the director. On Tuesday to Saturday at 20:30 and on Sunday at 16:00. At the Théâtre de l'Aquarium Cartoucherie in the Parc Floral in the Bois de Vincennes. Métro: Château de Vincennes. Free shuttle bus is called 'Cartoucherie.' InfoTel.: 01 43 74 99 61, or see TheatreOnline and fnac below for tickets.

Favela Chic - is the Parisian version of a Brazilian slum with music; now in a new location, open since May. This is in the Oberkampf area, so if this place is too hot, there are fall-back places nearby, some of them cool like Blue Billiards. Favela Chic, 18. Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, Paris 11. Métro: République. InfoTel.: 01 40 21 38 14.

Operissima - part one is a live 'best of' the 19th century Italian opera, with the Ignacio Jarquin Company and the Polyphorum Symphony Orchestra; and part two is a whole opera, 'Cavalleria Rusticana.' Every Sunday at 16:00 at the Bataclan, 50. Boulevard Voltaire, Paris 11. Métro: Oberkampf or Saint-Amboise. InfoTel.: 01 43 14 35 35.

Antoine de Saint-Exupery - called 'celebration of a myth,' this homage is to a real person; aviator and writer. Until Monday, 20. November; from 6:30 to 18:30. In the Panthéon, Place de Panthéon, Paris 5. Métro: Cluny or RER Luxembourg. InfoTel.: 01 44 32 18 00.

Le Siècle Métro - is about the 100th birthday of Paris' underground transport system. The Maison de la RATP has an exhibition about itself, continuing until 1. January 2001. Except Saturdays,, open from 10:00 to 18:00 daily. At 189. Rue de Bercy, Paris 12. Métro: Gare de Lyon, where 10 bus lines also have stops. Toll InfoTel.: 08 36 68 77 14. See 'Métro rides' below.

Fugues Impressionistes - is an 'escape' brochure put out by the Ile-de-France, intended to get you to run around Luzarches, Auvers-sur-Oise, Sannois, Pontoise and Osny. After tiring of impressionism, then you are supposed to take a break at the 'Guinguettes des Bords de Marne,' which are on the opposite side of Paris. 'Sundays in Canoes' also includes Marly-Le-Roi and Rueil-Malmaison. Then you get to the 'Paysagists,' who are scatteredposter: film, shanghai kid around Barbizon and Moret-sur-Loing. Finally, there several Paris museums - Orsay, Marmottan, Montmartre and two nightclubs. Find out more at the Espace Tourisme d'Ile-de-France, in the Carrousel du Louvre under the Pyramid. InfoTel.: 08 03 81 80 00.

Jackie Chan's first Chinese western - the 'Shanghai Kid' - starts Wednesday.

De Gaulle -August 1944 - The occasion for the new installation of an exhibition devoted to Général Charles De Gaulle and France-Libré is the 60th anniversary of the General's famous 'appeal' to the occupied French; broadcast from BBC transmitters on 18. June 1940. Open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de l'Armée, north entrance of the Hôtel des Invalides, 129. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Invalides, Latour-Maubourg or Varenne. InfoTel.: 01 44 42 37 72.

Also visit the Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris et Musée Jean Moulin, Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. InfoTel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

Ecrits, Dessins, Papiers - Jean Cocteau was his own archivist and didn't write like you or me - he rewrote, re-designed his words and their placements on a page, over and over again. Paris' Bibliothèque Historique now has a large sampling of the poet's works, which will be on display until Sunday, 1. October. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 10:00 to 18:00; on Sunday from 12:00 to 19:00. Closed Tuesday, 15. August. At the Bibliothèque Historique, 24. Rue Pavée, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 80 58.

Oser Le Savoir - which translates as 'Dare to Know,' features '10 keys to the future' which will be presented with a changing program of new exhibitions and debates until the end of the year. This takes place, in cooperation with the CNRS, at the Cité des Sciences & de l'Industrie at La Villette. 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. InfoTel.: 01 40 05 80 00.

'Pas Si Bêtes! 1000 Cerveaux, 1000 Mondes' - The Grande Galerie de l'Evolution du Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle is for discovering evolution. The museum is in the Jardin des Plantes, with its entry at 36. Rue Geoffrey Saint-Hillaire, Paris 5. Métro: Place Monge is closest.

Walk-In Outside Movies - are now a tradition at the Parc de la Villette, which has a sit-down place for you to watch free movies on an outdoor screen. Except on Mondays, films roll nightly until Sunday, 3. September; and start about 22:00 when it's dark enough. Deck-chairs are available too, if you don't like sitting on grass. Prairie du Triangle, Parc de la Villette. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 40 03 75 75.

Ciné l'Eté - this event is still called 'Aout au Ciné.' You need to get a card called 'Paris Ciné l'Eté' from the reception office in the Hôtel de Ville on the Rue de Rivoli, or at any Mairie, RATP offices, and some métro stations. By being able to prove you are under 25, the card allows entries to 150 cinemas for 25 francs per film. The cards are still available and the program continues until 31. August.

The Cinémathèque Française - has a non-stop program of rare film projections. This summer's double bill: 'B' movies and 'Classics.' The film museum operates in two locations: at the Palais de Chaillot, garden entry; and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Auto-InfoTel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

Roue Libre - is the RATP's program to get you out of the métro and off the buses, and on to your own pedal-power. HQ is at 95. bis, Rue Rambuteau in Les Halles, plus seven other locations. Bike rentals are from 20 francs per hour and tours are from 85 francs, and require reservations. On the month's last Saturday, long tours are organized - call the HQ for details. InfoTel.: 01 53 46 43 77, which is necessary to call for the guided tours.

Holiday Bikes - rent bikes for all sizes of people by the day, weekend and week; from 50 francs to 390 francs. They also rent scooters, motorcycles and even cars. Open all week from 9:00 to 12:30 and from 15:00 to 19:00. At the 'Parking' Foch-Etoile, opposite 1. bis, Avenue Foch, Paris 16. Métro: Etoile. InfoTel.: 01 01 45 00 06 66..

Cyclotourists - should also check out the 'The Best Biking Guide to Paris And Day Trips Outside Paris,' which is by Rose Burke who has personally tested everything for you, both downhill and uphill. You have to pedal yourself though.

Antique Métro - for the métro's 100th anniversary, the RATP has decided to re-run the old red and green 'Sprague' wagons that disappeared from service 20 years ago. The line chosen for this is the six, between Etoile and Nation, which is largely elevated and crosses the Seine twice. Photo-op stops are made on the Bir-Hakeim and Bercy bridges. Reckon on 80 minutes for the round-trip. The RATP will be running these trains on Sundays - on the 13. and 27. August. Reservations necessary. InfoTel.: 01 44 68 38 12.

Paris' Balloon - offers Paris views from a high place, without need of an elevator. Again in the air after a tough winter, you should call first to find out if it is a balloon day. For adults, 66 francs and 33 for kids. At the Parc André Citroën, Paris 15. Métro: Balard. InfoTel.: 01 44 26 20 01.

France Miniature - is designed for a small-scale visit to 150 sites in France, or for small people. New this year are 50 interior scenes; also small. By trainposter: film, big mama from Montparnasse or Saint-Lazare via La Défense, stop at La Verrière and take the Sqybus no. 411 - to 25. Route du Mesnil in Elancourt, which is southwest of Versailles. There is a round-trip and entry price of 110 francs for adults; less for children. Open from 10:00 to 19:00: until midnight on Saturdays. Toll InfoTel.: 08 36 68 53 35.

Musée de la Poupée - Paris' doll museum will be featuring dolls made from 1850 to 1959 that pre-figured Barbie, followed by Barbie herself, from 1959 to 2000. The third part shows off Barbie's rivals; all the Bellas, Sindys and Nancy de Famosa to mention a few. Until Sunday, 5. November. Except Monday, open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. Musée de la Poupée, Impasse Berthaud, Paris 3. In an alley opposite the métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Free Entries - are offered to all on Sunday mornings, from 10:00 to 13:00, at some of Paris' own museums. This involves up to 15 different places, so I'm not going to list them all here. There are exceptions to the free entry. Except for bigger shows in the Musée du Petit Palais, most of Paris' own museums have modest entry charges anyway.

Les Eglises à Paris - is a reedited brochure featuring texts and illustrations about 92 of Paris' churches, which includes divisions by age: medieval, renaissance, modern; and by locations. Slick and 72 pages, it is free at the Paris Tourist Office on the Champs-Elysées.

Guided Visits - Paris Gardens - the city has an annual program of guided visits to its gardens - also for the blind and the deaf; which include conferences, demonstrations of gardening and explanations about the life of plants. There is a brochure with more details available, and there is also the city's Web site. InfoTel.: 01 40 71 75 60.

Tickets:Théâtre On Line - presents the majority of theatre performances in Paris and the Ile-de-France, with news of new shows, criticism, and has a searchable database. France's giant media and cultural retailer also has its 'fnac' Web site, which also has tickets for many events of every sort.

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contents to: Ric Erickson, Editor.
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