Summer Drifts Away

photo: rue chappe, montmartre

Once up on Montmartre it is a good idea to sit there
for a while.

September Begins

Paris:- Saturday, 19. August 2000:- Doing a column like this one pushes time around; it is either now or coming. Everything with a date in the past gets ruthlessly slashed off the billboard.

Yet so many items deal with the past - we weren't there or if we were, we didn't know what was happening. Some items get to be old comrades and I hate to cut them out when they are over; who knows when they will come this way again?

This summer is going too; drifting away with increasing speed. Before we - before I - know it, it will be September and the preliminary program will start to take on details. The posters will appear and have their lives as the leaves fall and the rain washes them down the city's gutters.

Is September the real beginning of the year? After the summer's plants give way to a new season, the new season brings out the life of - what is this? This is not the Saturday philosophy session, but the week's column of events. On with it.



The items below are not 'new' at all, but they open this week's column. Here are summer's last gasps.

Bals-Concerts - mentioned for the last several weeks - don't miss the free Sunday concertsbrochure: how to layout the place concorde at the Kiosque à Musique at La Villette each Sunday starting at 17:30. Métro: halfway between Porte de la Villette and Porte de Pantin. Drinks, snacks and toilets available.

Calcinculo - Feria-Musica - is in the Grande Halle, also at La Villette. This is some sort or aerial-ballet, suitable for all ages. Until Saturday, 9. September; from Wednesday to Saturday at 20:00; on Sundays at 16:00. Adults, 110 F. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 40 03 75 75.

14th Festival Musique en l'Ile - L'Orchestra à Cordes de Blue Lake; Wednesday, 23. August at 20:45; on l'Ile. Whole program until Thursday, 14. September; followed by the musical season, starting on Saturday, 28. October. The 14th Festival Musique en l'Ile, at the Saint-Louis-en-l'Ile church and the Saint-Germain-des-Prés church. InfoTel.: 01 44 62 00 55.

This item closes the 'opening' events for this week. You will find some other new items below. The images are of posters that are around, but some are for coming events - not necessarily listed in the text.

The Paris provisional program for this fall is long and varied; and it is longer than I thought. Slowly but surely most of it will find a place here. The second week of starters:

Créateurs de Demain - exhibition of tomorrow's 25 international fashion designers. From Friday, 8. September until Sunday, 17. September. Musée Galliera, 10. Avenue Pierre-1er-de-Serbie, Paris 8. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. Info. Tel.: 01 47 20 85 23.

L'Art Dans le Monde 2000 - this is the 2nd edition of a panorama of 'new talent' selected by 36 worldwide art magazines and they've chosen 100 artists of 50 nationalities. From Saturday, 9. September until Wednesday, 8. November. Exhibition location is given as the Pont Alexandre III. Details to come.

Cinèma - Directeurs de la Photographie - are also called 'Opérateurs' in French. No films are made without them. For them, a special week, with the magazine 'Positif.' From Saturday, 9. September until Sunday, 17. September. At the Forum des Images-Vidéothèque, Forum des Halles, by the Porte Saint-Eustache entry, Paris 1. Info. Tel.: 01 44 76 62 00.

Salon Naifs et Primitifs - will feature more than 200 works by about 40 international artists. From Sunday, 10. September until 3. October. At the Espace Saint-Martin, 256. Rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, Paris 10. Métro: Louis Blanc. See the Web site for Naifs et Primitifs.

Statues - Bagatelle - a set of 12 statutes, representing mythic characters; somewhat mythic themselves, may have been removed from Bagatelle before 1905. Were theseposter: thr, phedra, theatre 14 done for the Comte d'Artois in 1778? From Wednesday, 13. September until Sunday, 12. November. Open daily from 11:00 to 17:00. Parc de Bagatelle, Route de Sèvres, Bois de Boulogne. Métro: Pont de Neuilly. InfoTel.: 01 45 01 20 10.

Sous le Ciel de la Peinture - Paris - 150 works; oils, aquarelles, drawings, from the 17th century to today; by David, Corot, Delacroix, Picasso, Matisse and others, all showing the 'light' of Paris. From Thursday, 14. September until Sunday, 17. December. In the Salle Saint-Jean, Hôtel de Ville, Rue de Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville.

Rouge - blood, fire, revolt - in 100 films; one of the three colors with a word in every one of the world's languages. From Tuesday, 19. September until Sunday, 22. October. At the Forum des Images, Porte Saint-Eustache, Forum des Halles, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet-Les Halles.

1940 - 'L'Année de Tous les Destins,' traces the fall of France and the emergence of the fight to win it back. From Wednesday, 4. October to 22. July 2001. At the Mémorial Leclerc, Jardin Atlantique, behind the Gare Montparnasse. Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse.

Archéo 2000 - opening of the restored Orangerie, Paris' only 17th century example, in the Hôtel Le Peletier de Saint-Fargeau. On show: a collection of the archeological finds from Bercy; featuring 4-6000 year-old canoes. Actual dates to come. In October, Paris in 3D, from 1850. Musée Carnavalet - Historie de Paris, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul.

Mois de la Photo 2000 - this year's dates are from Sunday, 29. October until Sunday, 26. November.

Versailles: Summer Events - Versailles' summer events do not vary much, but remain spectacular. The 'Fêtes de Nuit' are at the Neptune basin and take place on Saturday evenings. There is one on 26. August at 21:30, and on 2. and 9. September, also at 21:30. 'Les Grandes Eaux Musicales' are every Sunday until 8. October. For more details, check out the Musée du Château de Versailles Web site. To get to Versailles take the RER 'C' line, to Versailles R-G, or take the SNCF train from the Gare Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01 30 83 77 88.

The Rau Collection - Fra Angelico to Bonnard - 106 major paintings by El Greco, Tiepolo, Millet, Fragonard, Pissarro, Degas, Cézanne, Monet, Renoir, to name a few. Until Thursday, 4. January 2001. Monday to Wednesday, from 11:00 to 20:00; rest of the week until 22:00. Musée du Luxembourg, 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Suplice or Mabillon. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 25 95.

Picasso's Sculpture - is an exhibition, largely postered in the métro, currently at the Centre Pompidou. You know who Picasso is and you know what sculpture is, so this is just an excuse to put in the culture factory's Web URL - which may be a new one. Otherwise, the place is open from 11:00 to 21:00 or 22:00; but never open on Tuesday. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Pierre Bonnard - One on the summer's events, featuring 90 paintings, from Nabi toposter: concert enrique iglesias, olympia nudes. Until Monday, 9. October; from 11:00 to 18:00, until 21:00 on Thursdays. Closed Tuesday. Musée Maillol, Fondation Dina Vierny, 59 - 61. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Rue du Bac. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 59 58.

Monet At Marmottan - an exhibition showing a fairly complete collection of paintings by Claude Monet. A special section is set aside for the Giverny paintings. Degas, Caillebotte, Sisley and Gauguin are also present, but this is nearly a mono-Monet show. Until Sunday, 31. December; from 10:00 to 17:00, except Mondays. Musée Marmottan, 2. Rue Louis-Boilly, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette. InfoTel.: 01 42 24 07 02.

L'Arts d'Afrique, d'Asie, d'Océanie et des Amériques - this is the first exhibition of the future Quai Branly museum so it is housed in the newly re-opened Pavillon des Sessions in the Louvre. The 'artworks' featured are called 'primitive' by some, but the French have coined a new phrase; 'Arts Premiers.' The entry to the Louvre's new section is located to the south of the Carrousel Arch. Follow the signs to the Porte des Lions. InfoTel.: 01 40 30 51 51.

Eugène Delacroix - the national museum devoted to this painter occupies part of his personal apartment. After quitting his atelier in the Rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, Delacroix moved into the Rue de Fürstenberg in 1857, in order to work on Saint-Suplice. Open from 9:30 until 16:30 daily except Tuesday. Musée National Eugène Delacroix, 6. Rue de Fürstenberg, Paris 6. Métro: Mabillon. InfoTel.: 01 44 41 86 50.

La Dame de la Mer - Anita Conti was one of the first woman oceanographers; one who sailed all of the seas, from 1935 until the '60's. This is an exhibition of her photos, taken of the world of deep-sea fishing. Until Sunday, 10. September. Except Mondays, open from 11:30 to 18:30. At the Pavillon des Arts, Les Halles, Porte Rambuteau, Terrace Lautréamont, Paris 1. RER and métro: Châtelet. InfoTel.: 01 42 33 82 50.

L'Art dans la Pub - is an exhibition showing 'art' in advertising; meaning art borrowed and not 'advertising art.' Until next Sunday, 27. August. Except Monday, open 11:00 to 18:00; on weekends from 10:00 to 18:00, and late on Wednesdays until 21:00. Musée de la Publicité, in the Arts Décoratifs, 107. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais Royal-Louvre. InfoTel.: 01 44 55 57 50.

Yiddish? Yiddish? - the exhibition continues until Sunday, 8. October, with a little more Yiddish Atmosphère on 17. and 18. October. At the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville. Museum hours Monday to Friday from 11:00 to 18:00; and Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 86 60.

Nils-Udo - moves into the Musée Zadkine to take up temporary residence in its garden atelier in order sculpt some vegetation - up to five metres high. This exhibition continues until Monday, 24. September; from Tuesdays to Sundays; and including the holiday Tuesday, 15. August. Musée Zadkine, 100 bis, Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

Mesurer l'Atmosphère - is a temporary 'weather' exhibition at the newly renovated and worth a visit nuts-and-bolts museum. After ten years of being mostly closed and about four years of being all closed, a major Paris museum has reopened. It is full of the tools and machines - many original - that helped make our modern world. A report about my visit to it is featured in an issue earlier this year.

Musée des Arts et Métiers, 60. Rue Réaumur, Paris 3. Métro: Arts et Métiers. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00; until 21:00 on Thursdays. Entry: 35 francs. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 82 20.

Bijoux Romantiques - were made in the time of George Sand, which is now considered 'romantic.' This exhibition of decorative jewelry featuring more than 200 pieces - some from the Musée des Arts Décoratifs - will be taking place until Sunday, 1. October, at the Musée de la Vie Romantique. In the Hôtel Scheffer-Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Le Canotage - while canoes are happening outside, in the interior there will be 'Intérieur' by Vlaminck, which the Musée Fournaise thinks he may have painted there. 'There' is the Ile des Impressionistes at Chatou, which has its boatworks, historic museum and a restaurant. Until Sunday, 29. October. At the Musée Fournaise, Ile des Impressionistes, 78400 Chatou. Take RER line 'A' to Chatou-Croissy or Reuil-Malmaison. Open Thursday and Friday from 11:00 to 17:00 and on Saturday and Sunday, from 11:00 to 18:00. InfoTel.: 01 34 80 63 22.


Aventures Architecturales à Paris - is subtitled 'The Art In the Rulers' and is not all new architecture is ugly even if this seems to be the case. The current show, which continues until Sunday, 1. October, shows off Paris' best modern works. Open Tuesday to Saturday, from 10:30 to 18:30; Sundays from 11:00 to 19:00. At the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 00 97.

Voilà. Le Monde Dans la Tête - what else can you expect when 50 international modern artists are around? Big names, big flashy stuff, until Sunday, 29. October. Open Tuesday to Friday, from 10:00 to 17:30, on weekends from 10:00 to 18:45. Musée d'Artposter: expo, musee luxembourg Moderne, 11. Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Alma-Marceau InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

The 'Lost Angel' of Montparnasse - is Abraham Mintchine, who came from Kiev to Montparnasse in 1926, and remained relatively discrete until he died near Toulon in 1931. This exhibition will present 34 paintings, done in the last years of his life. From Wednesday to Sunday, from 13:00 to 19:00. This exhibition continues until Sunday, 10. September. At the 'Chemin du Montparnasse,' 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

La Comédie Humaine en Peinture - illustration of texts by Balzac, too large to be printed, by Sere Kantorowicz. Balzac, a failed printer, did want his books illustrated - and the Edition Furne of the La Comédie Humaine is one result. When he died in 1850 about 110 engravings had been done. These serve as a counterpoint to Serge Kantorowicz' works. From Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 17:40; until Sunday, 24. September; at the Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: Passy InfoTel.: 01 55 74 41 80.


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