Music, Dance, Theatre

photo: montmartre

From the terrace of the Galeries Lafayette - Montmartre.

Métro Rallyes and Photographs

Paris:- Saturday, 16. September 2000:- Well, I have seemed to have managed to overlook today's Techno Parade entirely. If I had been scanning Le Parisien carefully I might have had a few days' notice, but not enough to include it here in a timely fashion.

From what I understand, this year's parade had only half last year's budget. If there were posters for it, I didn't see them. And if I put in all the information I do see on posters, this column would never be finished.

For example, the RATP has a poster in the métro advertising a 'Rallye Métro; ' and it is supposed to take place on Saturday, 7. October. Even though the métro station where I saw the poster had a info booth, they had no info about this event for the public at all. If you are interested, try the Métro's 100th birthday Web site.



Here are few selected events that are starting this week. September has so many, that you should also peer closely at 'Coming Events' below for some that start very soon too.

Affiches 50-60 - are rare posters for movies, on exhibition with some for sale. From Thursday, 21. September until December. At the Galerie Grand Monde, in the Cour Damoye, entry via 12. Place de la Bastille, Paris 11. Métro: Bastille.poster: affiches cinema, gal grand monde InfoTel.: 01 48 05 51 30. The Cour Damoye has several other galleries and shops, so a visit to all of it will be worth your while.

1st Salon Daguerre - for this first salon, organized by the Photo Club du Val-de-Bièvre, out of 876 black and white and color photos submitted from all over France, 161 were retained for the exhibition. The exhibition begins on Thursday, 21. September and continues until Sunday, 1. October. In the Salons of the Mairie's annex, at 12. Rue Durouchoux, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau or Mouton-Duvernet. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 11 72.

Cristina Hoyos - does 'Al Compás de Tiempo' which is called ballet, but I think may be flamenco. Only until Sunday, 1. October. At the Théâtre Mogador, 25. Rue Mogador, Paris 9. Métro: Trinité. InfoTel.: 01 53 32 32 00.

La Chute - is by Albert Camus, and is his last big piece. Adapted by Catherine Camus and François Chaumette, directed by Michel Miramont; it features Jean Lespert. From Tuesday to Saturday, at 20:00. At the Lucenaire, 53. Rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs. InfoTel.: 01 45 44 57 34.

Sunday Concerts - start on Sunday, 1. October and continue until the end of May 2001. At 11:00, precise. Ticket sales at the door start at 10:00. At the Théâtre du Châtelet, ¨Place du Châtelet, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet. Tickets also available at fnac,, Bon Marché and Printemps. While the concerts are on, there are three different musical ateliers for kids, in three age groups.

5th Fête des Jardins - is a weekend series of tours, cultural activities, ateliers and childrens' entertainments, which will take place in parks and gardens throughout Paris. This includes the 'comics' at Bercy and a special tour of the Champs-Elysées gardens. The weekend concerned is Saturday and Sunday, 23 and 24. September. See the Paris Web site for more details.

Le Cadre à Travers les Siècles - is what the invitation says, but other info I have here is more about modern frame-making, by the masters of the profession in France. Theposter: cristina hoyos, thr mogador dates don't match either - it's the rentrée! - so my guess is that this exhibition starts on Tuesday, 19. September and continues until Saturday, 25. November. From Tuesday to Saturday; from 13:30 to 20:00. At the Bibliothèque Forney, in the Hôtel de Sens, 1. Rue du Figuier, Paris 4. Métro: Pont Marie. InfoTel.: 01 42 78 14 60.

Rouge - blood, fire, revolt - in 100 films; one of the three colors with a word in every one of the world's languages. From Tuesday, 19. September until Sunday, 22. October. At the Forum des Images, Porte Saint-Eustache, Forum des Halles, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet-Les Halles.

Sous le Ciel de la Peinture - Paris - 150 works; oils, aquarelles, drawings, from the 17th century to today; by David, Corot, Delacroix, Picasso, Matisse and others, all showing the 'light' of Paris. Until Sunday, 17. December. In the city's own Salle Saint-Jean, Hôtel de Ville, Rue de Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. See the comment in this week's Café column.

This item closes the 'opening' events for this week. You will find some other new items below. The images are of posters that are around Paris, but some are for coming events - not necessarily listed in the text.

Paris' program for this fall is now firming up. It is long and varied; and it is longer than I thought. Slowly but surely some small part of it will find a place here.

Le Jardin Médiéval - is what has been done with the space between the Cluny and the Boulevard Saint-German, at the corner of the Boulevard Saint-Michel. More exactly, it sort of surrounds the museum. According to its poster, opening day is Saturday, 23. September. Métro: Cluny.

Regards de Yoshi Takata - is a photo exhibition that begins on Tuesday, 26. September and continues until Saturday, 28. October. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 12:00 to 19:00; on Thursdays until 20:00. At the Maison de la Culture du Japon, 101 bis, Quai Branly, Paris 15. Métro: Bir-Hakeim.

Mondial de l'Automobile -translates into Paris' biannual International Motor Show, which features the latest creations on wheels from all the world's manufacturers. It you like shiny, clean cars with low milage, this is the place to see them. This year, from Saturday, 30. September until Sunday, 15. October. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles.

Animal Expo - is an annual domestic animal - pets - exhibition. No details, only dates; the weekend of Saturday, 30. September and Sunday, 1. October. At the Parc Floral in the Bois de Vincennes. The park is open from 9:30 to 19:00. Métro: Château de Vincennes. InfoTel.: 01 43 43 92 95.

1940 - 'L'Année de Tous les Destins,' traces the fall of France and the emergence of the fight to win it back. From Wednesday, 4. October to 22. July 2001. At the Mémorial Leclerc, Jardin Atlantique, behind and above the Gare Montparnasse. Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse.

FIAC - is Paris' annual international contemporary art exhibition, which includes artists, their works and their dealers. This year, for 2000, the art fair features an exceptional 200 one-man shows. A colloque organized for 'L'Art Dans le Monde 2000' will be held here on Wednesday and Thursday, 25 and 26. October, in the afternoons. The FIAC is open from Wednesday to Monday, 25 to 30. October; from 12:00 to 20:00; on Thursday, 26. September to 22:00, and on the weekend from 10:00 to 20:00. at the Pavillon du Parc at Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles.

Archéo 2000 - opening of the restored Orangerie, Paris' only 17th century example, in the Hôtel Le Peletier de Saint-Fargeau. On show: a collection of the archeological finds from Bercy; featuring 4-6000 year-old canoes. Actual dates to come. In October, Paris in 3D, from 1850. Musée Carnavalet - Historie de Paris, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul.

Piste - is the Cirque Bouglione's new show, beginning on Saturday, 28. October and continuing until 31. December. At the Cirque d'Hiver, Place Pasedeloup, Paris 11. Métro: Filles-de-Calvaire. InfoTel.: 08 92 68 08 92.

Mois de la Photo 2000 - this year's dates are from Sunday, 29. October until Sunday, 26. November.

L'Art Dans le Monde 2000 - this is the 2nd edition of a panorama of 'new talent' selected by 36 of the world's top art magazines, and they've chosen 100 artists of 50 nationalities. Besides the magazines, there will be paintings, sculpture, photographs, videos, 'installations' and performances. See the report in a recent issue. Until Wednesday, 8. November; open daily except Mondays, from 11:00 to 19:00. The location is given as the 'Culée' of the Pont Alexandre III; with the entry located on the right bank on the right side of the bridge. This is a tunnel, both 'warm' and 'industrial.'

Fra Angelico to Bonnard - features 106 major paintings from the Rau Collection - by El Greco, Tiepolo, Millet, Fragonard, Pissarro, Degas, Cézanne, Monet,poster: la chute, camus, thr lucernaire Renoir, to name a few. Until Thursday, 4. January 2001. Daily from 11:00 to 19:00; on Thursdays until 22:00. Musée du Luxembourg, 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Suplice, Odéon or Mabillon. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 25 95.

Picasso's Sculpture - is an exhibition, largely postered in the métro, currently at the Centre Pompidou. You know who Picasso is and you know what sculpture is, so this is just an excuse to put in the culture factory's Web URL - which may be a new one. Otherwise, the place is open from 11:00 to 21:00 or 22:00; but never open on Tuesday. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Pierre Bonnard - One on the summer's continuing events, featuring 90 paintings, from Nabi to nudes. Until Monday, 9. October; from 11:00 to 18:00, until 21:00 on Thursdays. Closed Tuesday. Musée Maillol, Fondation Dina Vierny, 59 - 61. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Rue du Bac. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 59 58.

Monet At Marmottan - an exhibition showing a fairly complete collection of paintings by Claude Monet. A special section is set aside for the Giverny paintings. Degas, Caillebotte, Sisley and Gauguin are also present, but this is nearly a mono-Monet show. Until Sunday, 31. December; from 10:00 to 17:00, except Mondays. Musée Marmottan, 2. Rue Louis-Boilly, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette. InfoTel.: 01 42 24 07 02.

L'Arts d'Afrique, d'Asie, d'Océanie et des Amériques - this exhibition is housed in the newly re-opened Pavillon des Sessions in the Louvre. The 'artworks' featured are called 'primitive' by some, but the French have coined a new phrase; 'Arts Premiers.' The entry to the Louvre's new section is located to the south of the Carrousel Arch. Follow the signs to the Porte des Lions. InfoTel.: 01 40 30 51 51.

Des Statues pour Bagatelle - or the 'Histoire d'un Retour.' This is a set of 12 statutes, representing mythic characters; somewhat mythic themselves, which may have been removed from Bagatelle before 1905. Were these done for the Comte d'Artois in 1778? Until Sunday, 12. November. Open daily from 11:00 to 17:00. Parc de Bagatelle, Route de Sèvres, Bois de Boulogne. Métro: Pont de Neuilly. InfoTel.: 01 45 01 20 10.

Eugène Delacroix - the national museum devoted to this painter occupies part of his personal apartment. After quitting his atelier in the Rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, Delacroix moved into the Rue de Fürstenberg in 1857, in order to work on Saint-Suplice. Open from 9:30 until 16:30 daily except Tuesday. Musée National Eugène Delacroix, 6. Rue de Fürstenberg, Paris 6. Métro: Mabillon. InfoTel.: 01 44 41 86 50.

Yiddish? Yiddish! - this exhibition continues until Sunday, 8. October, with a little more Yiddish Atmosphère on 17. and 18. October. At the Musée d'Art et d'Histoireposter: 1st salon daguerre, photography du Judaïsme, Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville. Museum hours Monday to Friday from 11:00 to 18:00; and Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 86 60.

Nils-Udo - moves into the Musée Zadkine to take up temporary residence in its garden atelier in order sculpt some vegetation - up to five metres high. This exhibition continues until Monday, 24. September; from Tuesdays to Sundays; and including the holiday Tuesday, 15. August. Musée Zadkine, 100 bis, Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

Mesurer l'Atmosphère - is a temporary 'weather' exhibition at the newly renovated and worth a visit nuts-and-bolts museum. After ten years of being mostly closed and about four years of being all closed, a major Paris museum has reopened. It is full of the tools and machines - many original - that helped make our modern world. A report about my visit to it is featured in an issue earlier this year.

Musée des Arts et Métiers, 60. Rue Réaumur, Paris 3. Métro: Arts et Métiers. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 18:00; until 21:00 on Thursdays. Entry: 35 francs. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 82 20.

Bijoux Romantiques - were made in the time of George Sand, which is now considered 'romantic.' This exhibition of decorative jewelry featuring more than 200 pieces - some from the Musée des Arts Décoratifs - will be taking place until Sunday, 1. October, at the Musée de la Vie Romantique. In the Hôtel Scheffer-Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Le Canotage - while canoes are happening outside, in the interior there will be 'Intérieur' by Vlaminck, which the Musée Fournaise thinks he may have painted there. 'There' is the Ile des Impressionistes at Chatou, which has its boatworks, historic museum and a restaurant. Until Sunday, 29. October. At the Musée Fournaise, Ile des Impressionistes, 78400 Chatou. Take RER line 'A' to Chatou-Croissy or Reuil-Malmaison. Open Thursday and Friday from 11:00 to 17:00 and on Saturday and Sunday, from 11:00 to 18:00. InfoTel.: 01 34 80 63 22.


Les Arts Déco 2000 - is a new exhibition by students of the Ecole Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs, part of which was presented at 'Arts Déco' in Ivry in July. Discover these 'new' artists at the Atelier A. Girard, 7. Rue Campagne-Première, Paris 14. Until Friday, 13. October; from Tuesday to Friday; from 12:00 to 18:30. Métro: Vavin. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 01 16/

CUBA 2000 - features 15 artists from Havana, plus music by the groups 'Conson' and 'Trinidad,' and with reading from texts by Abilio Estevez and Alejo Carpentier, by Marie-Laure Jeanneteau. Until Friday, 6. October; daily from 11:00 to 20:00. At the Espace Commines, 17. Rue Commines, Paris 3. Métro: Filles-de-Calvaire or Saint-Sébastien-Froissart. InfoTel.: 0142 77 53 26.

Salon Naifs et Primitifs - will feature more than 200 works by about 40 internationalposter: expo cadres, biblio forney artists. Until Tuesday, 3. October. At the Espace Saint-Martin, 256. Rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, Paris 10. Métro: Louis Blanc. See the Web site for Naifs et Primitifs.

Fuzz - by Kriki, is an exhibition continuing until Wednesday, 4. October at the Galerie Kamel Mennour, 60. Rue Marazine, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon.

Aventures Architecturales à Paris - is subtitled 'The Art In the Rulers.' Not all new architecture is ugly even if this seems to be the case. The current show, which continues until Sunday, 1. October, shows off Paris' best modern works. Open Tuesday to Saturday, from 10:30 to 18:30; Sundays from 11:00 to 19:00. At the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 00 97.

Voilà. Le Monde Dans la Tête - what else can you expect when 50 international modern artists are around? Big names, big flashy stuff, until Sunday, 29. October. Open Tuesday to Friday, from 10:00 to 17:30, on weekends from 10:00 to 18:45. Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Alma-Marceau InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

La Comédie Humaine en Peinture - illustration of texts by Balzac, too large to be printed, by Serge Kantorowicz. Balzac, a failed printer, did want his books illustrated - and the Edition Furne of the La Comédie Humaine is one result. When he died in 1850 about 110 engravings had been done. These serve as a counterpoint to Serge Kantorowicz' works. From Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 17:40; until Sunday, 24. September; at the Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: Passy InfoTel.: 01 55 74 41 80.

La Terre Vue du Ciel - is 150 photos taken of 75 countries from the air over 10 years by Yann Arthus-Bertrand. Slated to come down on 18. June, this open-air gallery hung from the railings of the Luxembourg gardens, continues until the end of October. A priceless free show. Along the Rue de Médicis, Paris 6. Métro: RER Luxembourg is closest. Daily.

Gros Chagrins - is by G. Courteline, and seems to be subtitled 'La Peur des Coups' and/or 'La Paix Chez Toi.' Presented by Les Tréteaux Bleus. Every Friday at 21:00 and on Saturdays and Sundays at 17:00. At Le Tambour Royal, 94. Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, Paris 11. Métro: Goncourt or Belleville. InfoTel.: 01 48 06 72 34.

Footeur de Merde! - is presented by Mama Films and they claim it is a comedy - by Grégorie Aubert, with a cast of four major characters, one of whom is not a 'footeur.' From Tuesday at Saturday, at 21:00. At the Sudden Théâtre, 14, bis. Rue Saint-Isaure, Paris 18. Métro: Jules Joffrin. InfoTel.: 01 43 62 35 00.

Les Copropriétaires - has been written and is directed by Gérard Darier. 'Copropriétaires' means the owners of a condo, who have a sort of owner's club. Scheduled to run until 31. December, at the Théâtre Trévise, 14. Rue Trévise, Paris 9. Métro: Cadet or Grands Boulevards. InfoTel.: 01 45 08 50 06.

Versailles: September Events - Versailles' summer events do not vary much, but remain spectacular. 'Les Grandes Eaux Musicales' are every Sunday until 8. October. For more details, check out the Musée du Château de Versailles Web site. To get to Versailles take the RER 'C' line, to Versailles R-G, or take the SNCF train from the Gare Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01 30 83 77 88.

Un Siècle d'Enfance Parisienne - 100 years of growing up in Paris, presented in photos and childhood souvenirs. About 30,000 kids are born in Paris each year. Until Saturday, 7. October. At the Salon d'Acceuil in the Hôtel-de-Ville, 29. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 43 43.

Antoine de Saint-Exupéry - called 'Celebration of a Myth,' this homage is to a real person; aviator and writer. Until Monday, 20. November; from 6:30 to 18:30. In the Panthéon, Place de Panthéon, Paris 5. Métro: Cluny or RER Luxembourg. InfoTel.: 01 44 32 18 00.

Le Siècle Métro - is about the 100th birthday of Paris' underground transport system. The Maison de la RATP has an exhibition about itself, continuing until Monday, 1. January 2001. Except Saturdays,, open from 10:00 to 18:00 daily. At 189. Rue de Bercy, Paris 12. Métro: Gare de Lyon, where 10 bus lines also have stops. Toll InfoTel.: 08 36 68 77 14. See 'Métro rides' below.

De Gaulle - August 1944 - The occasion for the new installation of an exhibition devoted to Général Charles De Gaulle and France-Libré is the 60th anniversary of the General's famous 'appeal' to the occupied French; broadcast from BBC transmitters on 18. June 1940. Open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de l'Armée, north entrance of the Hôtel des Invalides, 129. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Invalides, Latour-Maubourg or Varenne. InfoTel.: 01 44 42 37 72.

Also visit the Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris et Musée Jean Moulin, Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. InfoTel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

Ecrits, Dessins, Papiers - Jean Cocteau didn't write like you or me - he rewrote, re-designed his words and rearranged their placements on a page, over and over again. Paris' Bibliothèque Historique now has a large sampling of the poet's works, which will be on display until Sunday, 1. October. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 10:00 to 18:00; on Sunday from 12:00 to 19:00. Closed Tuesday, 15. August. At the Bibliothèque Historique, 24. Rue Pavée, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 80 58.

Oser Le Savoir - which translates as 'Dare to Know,' features '10 keys to the future' which will be presented with a changing program of new exhibitions and debates until the end of the year. This takes place, in cooperation with the CNRS, at the Cité des Sciences & de l'Industrie at La Villette. 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. InfoTel.: 01 40 05 80 00.

In the Jardin des Plantes - find the Grande Galerie de l'Evolution du Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle - for discovering evolution and Paris' treasures of natural history. The museums are in the Jardin des Plantes, with its entry at 36. Rue Geoffrey Saint-Hillaire, Paris 5. Métro: Place Monge is closest.

Ile-de-France - is not an island, but the region surrounding Paris - sort of like an 'island' in France. Find out more about its attractions at the Espace Tourisme d'Ile-de-France, in the Carrousel du Louvre under the Pyramid. InfoTel.: 08 03 81 80 00.

The Cinémathèque Française - has a non-stop program of rare film projections. Early fall's bill features films by Abel Gance, Chantal Akerman, Jack Arnold and Lou Castel. The film museum operates in two locations: at the Palais de Chaillot, garden entry; and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Auto-InfoTel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

For those with a lot of audible tolerance this section features 'Befores,' 'Dayclubbing,' 'Nightclubbing' and 'Afters.' No suits needed for any of these. If these places are closed when I go to them, they'll be open for you when you flash plastic.

These places are even mentioned on Radio FIP. If you are tardy, they'll be yesterday's news for certain. But there's also old clubs in Paris that 'never die.' Any one of these may become one.

Batofar - Nova says 'most hyped;' Nova also says with Nova DJ's. Special effects, especiallyposter: les jardins de la bd, bercy on weekends, plus weekdays. Nothing on Mondays. At the Batofar, from 21:00. Entry, drink; 30 francs. Quai François Mauriac, Paris 13. Métro: Quai de la Gare. InfoTel.: 01 56 29 10 00.

Guingette Pirate - Next door on the Seine to the Batofar, so it's an either-or. On the Quai François Mauriac, Paris 13. Métro: Quai de la Gare. InfoTel.: 01 56 29 10 20.

Flèche d'Or - almost every night, loud surprises - sometimes on the old rails underneath. Closed Monday and Tuesday. 102, bis. Rue de Bagnolet, Paris 20. Métro: none close by. InfoTel.: 01 43 72 41 44.

Glaz'Art - Cuba Cubana includes lots of 'Happy Hours,' which are between 21:00 and 22:00. 'Afters' continue at the Batofar. All of it at Glaz'Art, 7 to 15. Avenue de la Porte de la Villette, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 40 36 55 65.

La Java - mainly Cuban music, helped out at times with heavy-duty African drums. Dance lessons too. Plus dancers. Go crazy! 105. Rue du Faubourg du Temple, Paris 10. Métro: Goncourt or Belleville. InfoTel.: 01 42 02 20 52.

Hôtel Costes - class act for cocktails; top DJ for other mixes. Act famous; other people do. Some are. At 239. Rue Saint-Honoré, Paris 1. Métro: Tuileries. InfoTel.: 01 42 44 50 25.

Café de la Danse - doors open at 19:30 to see Zenc Auesta + guests on Thursday, 21. September. Odd typo may affect spelling. Go anyway. At 5. Passage Louis Philippe, just off the Rue de Lappe. Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 47 00 57 59.

Cithéa - is more than its two zincs; jazz of all shapes, dancing. Cithéa isn't photogenic, but it's on Oberkampf too, at 114. Rue Oberkampf, Paris 11. Métro: Saint-Maur or Ménilmontant. InfoTel.: 01 40 21 70 95.

La Casa 128 - Cuban music, dancing, dining, more dancing; Thursday to Saturday; from 21:00 to 04:00. At 128. Rue Lafayette, Paris 10. Métro: Gare du Nord. InfoTel.: 01 48 01 05 71.

Le Gibus - Ex-hard techno, now 'house.' Is it softer? Sofas maybe? Open every night. At 18. Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, Paris 11. Métro: République. InfoTel.: 01 47 00 78 88. Same address below is not a mistake.

La Favela Chic - is the Parisian version of a Brazilian slum with year-round carnival music. Closed Sunday evenings. Check out Favela Chic, 18. Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, Paris 11. Métro: République. InfoTel.: 01 40 21 38 14.

Le Crocodile - More than 200 cocktails, since 1966. No famous people and accepts cash. At 6. Rue Royer-Collard, Paris 5. Métro: RER Luxembourg. InfoTel.: 01 43 54 32 37.

Roue Libre - is the RATP's program to get you out of the métro and off the buses, and on to your own pedal-power. HQ is at 95. bis, Rue Rambuteau in Les Halles. Bike rentals are from 20 francs per hour and tours are from 85 francs, and require reservations. On the month's last Saturday, long tours are organized - call the HQ for details. InfoTel.: 01 53 46 43 77.

Cyclotourists - should also check out the 'The Best Biking Guide to Paris And Day Trips Outside Paris,' which are by Rose Burke who has personally tested everything for you, both downhill and uphill. Rose has done everything except pedal for you.

Paris' Balloon - offers Paris views from a high place, without need of an elevator. Still in the air after a dubious summer, you should call first to find out if it is a balloon day. For adults, 66 francs and 33 for kids. At the Parc André Citroën, Paris 15. Métro: Balard. InfoTel.: 01 44 26 20 01.

Musée de la Poupée - Paris' doll museum will be featuring the dolls made from 1850 to 1959 that pre-figured Barbie, followed by Barbie herself, from 1959 to 2000. The third part shows off Barbie's rivals; all the Bellas, Sindys and Nancy de Famosa to mention just a few. Until Sunday, 5. November. Except Monday, open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. Musée de la Poupée, Impasse Berthaud, Paris 3. In an alley opposite the métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Free Entries - are offered to all on Sunday mornings, from 10:00 to 13:00, at some of Paris' own museums.poster: journees de la patrimoine This involves up to 15 different places, so I'm not going to list them all here. There are exceptions to the free entry idea. Most of Paris' own museums have modest entry charges anyway.

Guided Visits - Paris Gardens - the city has an annual program of guided visits to its gardens - also for the blind and the deaf; which include conferences, demonstrations of gardening and explanations about the life of plants. There is a brochure with more details available, and there is also the city's Web site. InfoTel.: 01 40 71 75 60.

Tickets:Théâtre On Line - presents the majority of theatre performances in Paris and the Ile-de-France, with news of new shows, criticism, and has a searchable database. France's giant media and cultural retailer also has its 'fnac' Web site, which also has tickets for many events of every sort.

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