A 'No Siesta' Week

photo: cafe, place edgar quinet

On Saturday in the Place Edgar Quinet in Montparnasse.

Galleries, Salons and 'Afters'

by Ric Erickson

Paris:- Monday, 25. September 2000:- Even in Paris there are weeks that seem sort of routine. Last week seemed like one of these, and this is the only explanation I have for getting into the Rue Campagne Première.

My subconscious told me it had something to do with the poster gallery at Bastille and the important photo salon in my local Mairie's annex - but the connection escapes me now.

I did want to see the 'Arts Deco 2000' exhibition at the Atelier An. Girard in the Rue Campagne Première. This I did, but I still don't know why I ended up taking two tours of the area - and then missing the opening of the Roger Pic photography exhibition at the Chemin du Montparnasse.

On one of these excursions I managed to be unaware of 'carless day' on Friday in Paris by narrowly not taking a lookphoto: antiques weekend at the Rue de Rennes - which is hardly ever mentioned in the history of Montparnasse.

Antique professionals dominate most neighborhood 'brocante' - outdoor sales weekends.

In addition to history, the weekend featured more 'rentrée,' in the form of the quartier's semi-annual antiques sale, and the local activities and sports promo day. At this, I learned where to find the arrondissement's 'official' pétanque pitch and that pétanque jokes can be rude, somewhat in common with wine jokes.

Friday and Saturday were also good weather days in Paris, and this is probably why I have no recollection of Wednesday. I do remember I had no siestas last week.

Café Life

Thursday, after the week's club meeting, I hopped on the métro and headed east to Bastille, where it was attempting to rain. Sidewalks were glistening and the overcast was bringing on an early blue evening, with car lights and neons as highlights.

People were waiting for buses or getting into taxis as I followed wet cobbles into the Cour Damoye behind some silhouettes of hastening umbrellas. None of the shops or ateliers had their lights on, until I got to the Grand Monde gallery.

It was fully lit and its big windows allowed the cinema posters on exhibition to display themselves to the empty cour. I was not only on time for the exhibition's vernissage, I was the first to arrive; with a choice of everything not yet mobbed.

Hervé Millot insisted that I break up a neat plate of 'amuse-bouches' and recommended the small but green grapes he's grown himself. They were sweet and delicate.

Many of the posters were for American films, shown in the '50's, but some were for French and other European films. His partner, Julie Gateau, said they had about 300 posters for sale; some in good condition, some faded by time, and priced accordingly.

The gallery is not big, so not many of the big posters were on display. All were on view in photo albums, coded to match the price list. Within 20 minutes, around the time my orange juice was finished, browsers and buyers began to appear. When I told Dimitri about it later, he said he knew a 'Zorro' fanatic and I gave him the following directions:

Galerie Grand Monde, in the Cour Damoye, entry via 12. Place de la Bastille, Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 48 05 51 30. The exhibition-sale continues until December.

On Friday, I was on my way to the annex of the local Mairie for the official opening of the 1st Salon Daguerre - which is also this years' National Salon of Art Photos - when I saw Dimitri tramping determinedly down the Rue Boulard towards the café-tabac.

When I caught up to him he was in a dither about getting an envelope and a stamp. I went back to my placephoto: gallery grand monde, julie, herve to get one of the invitations, and an envelope. I keep spares on hand to avoid getting into dithers.

Julie Gateau and Hervé Millot in the poster gallery, 'Grand Monde.'

From the café we walked the two blocks to the annex, past the semi-annual brocante - antique sale - set up in front of the Mairie and overflowing into several surrounding streets. Dimitri said they always have wonderful sausages. I reminded him of the free food and drink that would be at the salon.

He showed his invitation on the way in, but nobody asked to see mine. Photos done by members of the quarter's Photo Club du Val-de-Bièvre were in the entry. Many subjects were familiar because they are all around every day.

The annex building is worth a visit for itself. I don't know its history other than the street it's in is named for an National Guard Colonel killed during the Paris Commune in 1871, the year the street was put through.

The red-brick building's interior seems to be '30's socialist-baroque; with a red-carpeted staircase, lots of marble and fancy iron-work, and huge abstract socialist-reality mural paintings - a worker's palace.

Upstairs, the official ceremony was in progress. The officials, including Lionel Assouad, the Mayor of the 14th arrondissement, were on a little stage partly hidden by a corner of the exhibit; and the crowd completely hid the food and drinks.

The photographers chosen for best black and white and best color photos received their modest pots. Other categories received their certificates. There was general applause for each, with fan clubs being the most generous.

Antique photo printing techniques were also featured. Although nearly forgotten, some of these techniques - 'gomme bichromatée, l'oléobromie' - or using precious metals - platinum or palladium - produce nearly indestructible images.

When the official part was over, the crowd did not have to move far for the wine and cheese. Dimitri had been looking at the photos instead, so he was last in line - but snaked in to return with two plastic dixie-cups of orange juice.

Earlier on Friday, I had taken a tour of the 160-odd photos on display. This had been whittled down from over 800, and I guess there were something like a score of really outstanding photos, from all over France.

The 1st Salon Daguerre continues until Sunday, 1. October. Daily from 10:00 to 18:00. In the Salons of the Mairie's annex, at 12. Rue Durouchoux, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau or Mouton-Duvernet.

Friday - 'Afters' were supposed to be in our habitual café, but Dimitri said it had 'bad vibes.' It was crowded and noisy, but it seemed normal to me. We crossed the street to the Vin des Rues restaurant and convinced the patron we wouldn't tie up one of his sidewalk tables that had been booked for dinner.

I finished my café and went home to start working on the photos you see throughout this week's issue of Metropole.

On Sunday, around noon, in my backup café, the patron of the Vin des Rues restaurant wasphoto: salon foto daguerre recuperating from his restaurant weekend - and a particularly long 'after' at a rock-and-roll club - with a bottle of Chinon, on the bar.

Tiny figures in the far distance are the officials announcing awards for prize photographs at the 1st Salon Daguerre. Foreground figures are waiting for wine and cheese.

This is not the same as the 'ordinary' bar wine, served by the glass from the litre bottles stocked in the bar's 'mitrailleuse.' The patron either forgot the café I had on Friday or overlooked the café I was having - on account of too much 'Deep Purple?' - and ordered another bottle.

When I reminded him I don't drink, not even good wine - for medical reasons - he said it was too bad because all restaurant operators had one kidney medically removed at 20; to make room for their expanding livers.

Metropole's Services

The three firms mentioned below chose Metropole Paris for affiliate association for the same reasons as you've chosen to read it, so you have something in common.

Affiliation is not advertising in the traditional sense. If you sign up for the services or buy the products offered, the modest benefits resulting from your actions will help Metropole to stay online.

Health Care In Paris

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This is in addition to a full line of travel insurance. You can sign up for all of this before you leave home. Be sure to check out all of the 'HighwayToHealth' services for travellers.

Pétanque In America

The game of pétanque - or boules - can be played anywhere, almost anytime - even in snow - by nearly everybody. Any old bit of ground can be used as a playing field - as you might know if you've seen the game played around Paris.

Regulation boules are made out of metal. You can buy these in France, but they are a bit heavy to haul around in your luggage. They don't look good in carry-on baggage either.

'Petanque America' imports France's quality Obut boules and can ship them to you anywhere in the Americas.

Petanque America's online shop also has books about the game and its short list of rules, plus boules for children. Get Petanque America to do the heavy work for you while you shop around in Paris for the lighter and the supposedly finer things of life.

Paris Hotel Online Reservations

Long in advance is the time to use the 'Bookings' Paris hotel reservation service. Doing this permits you to get a preview look at hotels available in Paris and enables you to choose and reserve your Paris accommodations with a minimum of fuss and bother.

The Café Metropole Club's 51th Meeting

Last week here, I asked, 'Where is everybody?' New club members Shellay and Chuck Bush took my plea seriously, dropped in and signed up. Long-time member Doug Fuss returned from Poland for a look-in too. 'When do we vote?' was the 'Quote of the Week.' Vote for what; I don't know.

You shouldn't have skipped Thursday's update, but if you did now is the chance to catch up, unless you still have something else pressing to do. The club's weekly 'report' also contains an update about its impending birthday.

Fairly new readers can take a look at the fairly new 'About the Club' page. This contains mildly useful and fairly accurate information about this magazine's club for readers in Paris. Everybody else with a lot of spare time on their hands can look at it again too.

This Was Metropole One Year Ago:

Issue 4.39 - 27. Sept. 1999 - This week's Café Metropole column was headlined, 'Ho-Hum 'Car-Free' Day.' The 'Au Bistro' column's title was 'War On the Seine.' This issue had three features, titled 'The 'Bonne Bouffe' To Go,' 'Napoleon's Greek Madeleine' and 'Skimming the Fleas.' The Year 2000 was also announced as less than '100 Days' away. Thephoto: rue campagne premier 'Scene' column was headlined 'The Fun and Games Season.' There were four new 'Posters of the Week' and Ric's Cartoon of the Week was captioned 'Left-Handed Screwdriver.'

This Was Metropole Two Years Ago:

Issue 3.39 - 28. September 1998 - The week's Café Metropole column was titled, 'Pink Vote Takes Cake in Germany.' The 'Au Bistro' column was titled, 'Only Elections, Cars and Date Change Stuff.' This issue had three features, titled 'A 'Sort Of' Car-Free Day in Paris,' 'Right Here, Today: 20,000 Jobs' and 'Poster Hunt On the Boul' Mich.' There were four new 'Posters of the Week' and Ric's Cartoon of the Week had the caption of 'What's that Wierd Noise?' What, indeed?

Metropole's Exclusive & Solo Countdown to 31. December 2000:

This countdown - it doesn't matter how it started! There are wiser people - much more so than me - who know that the 21st Century starts on Monday, 1. January 2001. The big celebration we had for '2000' was a try-out; a countdown to the beginning of the last year of the 20th Century. Last year's countdown was in the wrong year, unless you have a fondness for the last years of millenniums. It was not the 'Big One.'

Now that everybody has it straight and we know what we're doing, there really are only about 97 days (less than 100!) left to go until the 3rd Millennium. Even if you remember the last countdown, you probably won't care that now 269 days ('262' was last week) have gone since New Year's 2000. What's gone is gone - even if last week's number was wrong - and this includes the 2nd Millennium, which is nearly gone for good too.
signature, regards, ric

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