The (Nearly) Full Fall Program

photo: opera bastille

An almost village-like view of the Opéra at Bastille.

Contains Everything But Walnuts

Paris:- Saturday, 14. October 2000:- I have a pile of press notices for current or coming events that I intended to include in this week's column, but just as I was about to start on them an even bigger pile of new stuff landed on top.

Most items are included, even if some of them are a bit sketchy. Before you ask, I haven't received anything new about this year's Christmas and New Years yet. For general information, please consult the last two years' versions of this column, starting with the December issues.



Here are few selected events for this week. Most new items are here, with a few buried further down in 'Théâtre, Opéra.' Read slowly and take your pick.

Fête de la Science - the poster seen in the métro mentioned two locations; one of which is the Musée des Arts et Métiers. This museum has five elements to its show: mathematics, a 'pyramide de la measure,' a series of conferences, a scientific game, and a booklet containing mathematic games. From now until Sunday, 22. October, from 10:00 to 18:00; until 21:30 on Thursdays. At the Musée des Arts et Métiers, 60. Rue Réaumur, Paris 3. Métro: Arts et Métiers. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 82 00.

Painted Walls - or, 'Murs Peints,' is a Paris expression of street decor, found on about 100 walls in the city. See Tony Soulé's at 255. Rue de Bercy, Paris 12; or Hervé di Rosa's at 96. Rue d'Alleray, Paris 15. Keep your eyes open for the others.

Paris en 80 Quartiers - in a year of big shows, this may be the biggest of all, and it's about Paris and Parisians. The '80 Quartiers' are divided into the 20 arrondissements, and can currentlyposter: 7th european cat show be seen in the 'City Halls' of the 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 16th and 17th arrondissements. Other arrondissements to come; until Wednesday, 27. December. All Mairies are open on weekdays and Saturday mornings. A catalogue of 130 pages is also available in the Mairies.

La Chaise Dans Tous Ses Etats - is also called 'Geste d'Art 2000' and this concerns the artisans of the viaduct on the Avenue Daumesnil, who have chosen the chair as this year's motive. Until Sunday, 29. October; from 14:00 to 20:00. Paris 12. Métro: Gare de Lyon.

Panorama - 'des Capitales Européennes' is the full title, and this architectural exhibition takes place in the city's dedicated museum for it; at the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland. InfoTel.:01 42 76 33 97.

75th Anniversary Fête - for the International Cité Universitaire, this is the link for its MixCité program. This fête lasts until Sunday, 22. October, and has something for everybody - from music to films. At 19. Boulevard Jourdan, Paris 14. Métro: Porte d'Orléans or RER Cité Universitaire. InfoTel.: 01 43 13 65 56.

Sam Szafran - 'L'Atelier dans l'Atelier' presents the artist with his pastels and watercolors of interiors and stairways, in Ary Scheffer's recently renovated atelier. Besides 50 well-known works, 50 other images are from private collections. This exhibition continues until Sunday, 14. January. At the Musée de la Vie Romantique, Hôtel Scheffer-Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Archéo 2000 - launches the opening of the restored Orangerie, which is Paris' only 17th century example - in the Hôtel Le Peletier de Saint-Fargeau. On show: a collection of the archeological finds from the recent Bercy digs; featuring in whole or parts, ten 4-6000 year-old canoes. These have become part of the Musée Carnavalet - Historie de Paris permanent collection. Open Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin-Vert. InfoTel.: 01 44 59 58 58.

Echos de Lumière - the city has commissioned Keiichi Tahara with the light job of illuminating 600 metres of the underground part of the Canal Saint-Martin, between the Rue du Chemin-Vert and Oberkampf. The 'echoes' are built into the canal's waters and the light projections will be set off by passing boats. This will become a permanent Paris attraction, with its inauguration on Thursday, 19. October. To view this, embark at the Port de l'Arsenal with Canauxrama or Paris Canal. Info. Tel.: 01 42 76 67 00.

This item closes the 'opening' events for this week. You will find some other new items below. The images are of posters that are around Paris, but some are for events - not necessarily listed in the text.

A bomb-load of coming events has just been dropped on me, in addition to the monster program for 'Paris en 80 Quartiers' which comes with 130-odd pages of details.

This year's Festival d'Automne begins on Wednesday, 25. October and continues until the end of the year. A big show of Chinese objects calledposter: manet, natures mortes, musee d'orsay 'La Gloire des Empereurs' will begin on Thursday, 2. November, to be presented at the Petit Palais. Then there will be a festival of 'Arabo-Andulouse' music, beginning on Friday, 3. November and lasting for the weekend at UNESCO's headquarters in Paris. The Hôtel de Ville's reception area will receive a photo exhibition about Europeans in Paris, beginning on Monday, 6. November and lasting until February. Cotton and mode will be on exhibit at the Musée Galliera, starting on Wednesday, 8. November.

Within another week or two, more details about the individual events for the 'Mois de la Photo' will start showing up. Then about the time I finish tapping these in, the Christmas program will be arriving. No time like the present to point out there are only 69 more shopping days until Christmas!

Argenterie d'Usage - 'Argenterie de Prestige' is an exhibition of the best French silverworks from the 18th and 19th centuries, assembled from the collections of the city's Petit Palais and the Musée des Beaux-Arts. From Tuesday, 24. October until 25. February 2001; from Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Cognacq-Jay, 8. Rue Elzévir, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 40 27 07 21.

FIAC - is Paris' annual international contemporary art exhibition, which includes artists, their works and their dealers. This year, for 2000, the art fair features an exceptional 200 one-man shows. A colloque organized for 'L'Art Dans le Monde 2000' will be held here on Wednesday and Thursday, 25 and 26. October, in the afternoons. The FIAC is open from Wednesday to Monday, from 25 to 30. October; from 12:00 to 20:00; on Thursday, 26. October to 22:00, and on the weekend from 10:00 to 20:00. at the Pavillon du Parc at Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles, Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles.

Piste - is the Cirque Bouglione's new show, beginning on Saturday, 28. October and continuing until 31. December. At Paris' Cirque d'Hiver, Place Pasedeloup, Paris 11. Métro: Filles-de-Calvaire. InfoTel.: 08 92 68 08 92.

Mois de la Photo 2000 - this year is the 20th edition, with Paris as the main subject, divided into three sorts of views: Paris, Paris and photography, and the Foreigner's Paris. In addition to young photographers, old photos never seen before will be shown. Watch for 40 related photographic exhibitions to go along with this. This year's dates are from Sunday, 29. October until Sunday, 26. November. Principal outpost: La Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 78 00.

Drums Beat - A percussion festival takes place from Thursday, 2. November until Saturday, 4. November; and will feature 60 of the world's best heavy hitters, for all classes of drum music. For more information, tune into the Journées de la Percussion Web site. If your browser conks out on this, the address is 1. Rue de Madrid, Paris 8. Métro: Europe or Saint-Lazare.

Manet, les Natures Mortes - is French for 'still life' so it is not as sinister as you may have thought. Impressionistic apples and pears by the square metre, but a major show all the same. Until Sunday, 7. January; open daily except Monday; from 10:00 to 18:00, to 21:45 on Thursdays, and from 9:00 to 18:00 on Sundays. Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER 'C' Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Visions du Future - is a really big show, just in time for Halloween, which presents a history of mankind's hopes - and fears. Except Tuesdays, the hours are from 10:00 to 19:15; on Thursdays until 21:45. Reservations required before 13:00. Until Monday, 1. January 2001, when the world is not coming to an end again. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général-Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Méditerranée - 'from Courbet to Matisse' is a visual treat to the shock of light that greeted a group of 39 painters when they discovered the Mediterranean sun and sky. An explosion ofbrochure: ile d'enfance brilliance, from the Gulf of Genoa to Catalonia, from 1850 to 1920. "Quel soleil ici!" Monnet wrote to Rodin in 1888. Until Monday, 15. January 2001; except Tuesday, daily from 10:00 to 20:00; on Wednesdays from 10:00 to 22:00. Reservations required before 13:00; none afterwards. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général-Eisenhower, Square Jean-Perrin, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 10.

L'Art Dans le Monde 2000 - this is the 2nd edition of a panorama of 'new talent' selected by 36 of the world's top art magazines, and they've chosen 100 artists of 50 nationalities. Besides the magazines, there will be paintings, sculpture, photographs, videos, 'installations' and performances. See the report in a recent issue. Until Wednesday, 8. November; open daily except Mondays, from 11:00 to 19:00. The location is given as the 'Culée' of the Pont Alexandre III; with the entry located on the right bank on the right side of the bridge. This is a tunnel, both 'warm' and 'industrial.'

Fra Angelico to Bonnard - features 106 major paintings from the Rau Collection - by El Greco, Tiepolo, Millet, Fragonard, Pissarro, Degas, Cézanne, Monet, Renoir, to name a few. Until Thursday, 4. January 2001. Daily from 11:00 to 19:00; on Thursdays until 22:00. Musée du Luxembourg, 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Suplice, Odéon or Mabillon. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 25 95.

Monet At Marmottan - an exhibition showing a fairly complete collection of paintings by Claude Monet. A special section is set aside for the Giverny paintings. Degas, Caillebotte, Sisley and Gauguin are also present, but this is nearly a mono-Monet show. Until Sunday, 31. December; from 10:00 to 17:00, except Mondays. Musée Marmottan, 2. Rue Louis-Boilly, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette. InfoTel.: 01 42 24 07 02.

Sous le Ciel de la Peinture - Paris - 150 works; oils, aquarelles, drawings, from the 17th century to today; by David, Corot, Delacroix, Picasso, Matisse and others, all showing the 'light' of Paris. This is a highly interesting show, with some rare views of Paris. Until Sunday, 17. December. In the city's own Salle Saint-Jean, Hôtel de Ville, Rue de Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville.

"Du chaos dans le pinceau..." - is from Victor Hugo's 'Les Misérables' as is this exhibition of his little-known designs, paintings, furniture and otherposter: a l'affiche en octobre, thrs prives elements point towards surrealism. Featured in this issue. Until Sunday 7. January; from Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Maison de Victor Hugo, 6. Place des Vosges, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 10 16.

Paris En 3D - from the stereoscopic images 1850 to the virtual reality of 2000; an image show within the framework of the Mois de le Photo. Except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40; until Sunday, 31. December. Musée Carnavalet - Historie de Paris, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 44 59 58 58.

Le Diable Sucré - features cakes, cannibalism, death and... no, it's not the same show as Halloween. Tuesday to Friday, 14:00 to 19:00; weekends, 13:00 to 19:00. Until Sunday, 28. January. At the Pavillon Paul Delouvier in the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurés, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 40 03 75 75.

Statues pour Bagatelle - or the 'Histoire d'un Retour.' This is a set of 12 statutes, representing mythic characters; somewhat mythic themselves, which may have been removed from Bagatelle before 1905. Were these done for the Comte d'Artois in 1778? Until Sunday, 12. November. Open daily from 11:00 to 17:00. Parc de Bagatelle, Route de Sèvres, Bois de Boulogne. Métro: Pont de Neuilly. InfoTel.: 01 45 01 20 10.

Le Jardin Médiéval - is what has been done with the space between the Cluny and the Boulevard Saint-German, at the corner of the Boulevard Saint-Michel. More exactly, it sort of surrounds the museum. Métro: Cluny.

Yiddish? Yiddish! - this exhibition continues with a little more Yiddish Atmosphère on Tuesday, 17. and Wednesday, 18. October. At the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville. Museum hours Monday to Friday from 11:00 to 18:00; and Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 86 60.

Le Canotage - while canoes are happening outside, in the interior there will be 'Intérieur' by Vlaminck, which the Musée Fournaise thinks he may have painted there. 'There' is the Ile des Impressionistes at Chatou, which has its boatworks, historic museum and a restaurant. Until Sunday, 29. October. At the Musée Fournaise, Ile des Impressionistes, 78400 Chatou. Take RER line 'A' to Chatou-Croissy or Reuil-Malmaison. Open Thursday and Friday from 11:00 to 17:00 and on Saturday and Sunday, from 11:00 to 18:00. InfoTel.: 01 34 80 63 22.


Le Cadre à Travers les Siècles - is what the invitation says, but other info I have here is more about modern frame-making, by today's masters of the profession in France. Until Saturday, 25. November. From Tuesday to Saturday; from 13:30 to 20:00. At the Bibliothèque Forney, in the Hôtel de Sens, 1. Rue du Figuier, Paris 4. Métro: Pont Marie. InfoTel.: 01 42 78 14 60.

Affiches 50-60 - are old and rare posters for movies, on exhibition and for sale. Until December. At the Galerie Grand Monde, in the Cour Damoye, entry via 12. Place de la Bastille, Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 48 05 51 30. The Cour Damoye has several other galleries and shops, so a visit to all of it will be worth your while.

Usine - 73 artists have picked 'the factory' as their subject, and this is an exhibition of their works. This is serious stuff, with heavy-duty industrial sponsorships. Daily from 10:00 to 19:00, andposter: brit films at pompidou until 21:00 on Thursdays. Until Monday, 18. December. At the Friche Industrielle, 4. Rue du Chemin Vert, Paris 11. Métro: Chemin-Vert. InfoTel.: 01 40 21 81 88.

Pierre de Mougins - was the name of an artist on an interesting poster I saw somewhere during the week. The works are on exhibition until Monday, 30. October at the Coupole, 102. Boulevard Montparnasse, Paris 14. Métro: Vavin. This one is where the pictures fit in and you can have a quiet drink while looking at them.

Les Arts Déco 2000 - is a new exhibition by students of the Ecole Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs, part of which was presented at 'Arts Déco' in Ivry in July. Discover these 'new' artists at the Atelier A. Girard, 7. Rue Campagne-Première, Paris 14. Until Friday, 13. October; from Tuesday to Friday; from 12:00 to 18:30. Métro: Vavin. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 01 16/

Voilà. Le Monde Dans la Tête - what else can you expect when 50 international modern artists are around? Big names, big flashy stuff, until Sunday, 29. October. Open Tuesday to Friday, from 10:00 to 17:30, on weekends from 10:00 to 18:45. Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Alma-Marceau InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Jean Rouch - 'Récites Photographiques' is an exhibition that continues until Sunday, 31. December. Open daily except Tuesday, from 9:45 to 17:15. At the Musée de l'Homme, Palais de Chaillot, 17. Place de Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro.

Take Your Time - Jason Karaïndros examines poverty and insecurity and public spaces in various ways, both mobile and asleep, as a minimalist puritan. Monday to Saturday, from 13:00 to 19:00. At the Espace d'Art Contemporain, 55. Rue Montparnasse, Paris 14. Métro: Edgar Quinet, Montparnasse or Vavin.

Roger Pic - is one of the reporter-photographers who has been in all the wars and witnessed all the famines, everywhere in the world. Now his home is Montparnasse and some of his thousands of photos are currently on exhibition at the Le Chemin du Montparnasse. I missed a chance to get more information, but this young museum in an old place is usually is open from Wednesday to Sunday; from 13:00 to 19:00. Entry: may be 25 francs. At 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. Info. Tel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

Regards de Yoshi Takata - is a photo exhibition that continues until Saturday, 28. October. In the same location, see a retrospective of 10 films by Masumura Yasuzo, which continue until Saturday, 21. October. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 12:00 to 19:00; on Thursdays until 20:00. At the Maison de la Culture du Japon, 101 bis, Quai Branly, Paris 15. Métro: Bir-Hakeim.

La Terre Vue du Ciel - is 150 photos taken of 75 countries from the air over 10 years by Yann Arthus-Bertrand. Slated to come down on 18. June, this open-air gallery hung from the railings of the Luxembourg gardens, continues until the end of October. A priceless free show. Along the Rue de Médicis, Paris 6. Métro: RER Luxembourg is closest. Daily.

Theatre Notes: - 'Fernando Krapp M'a Ecrit Cette Lettre' by Tankred Dorst is supposed to be a major event at the Théâtre Montparnasse, 31. Rue de la Gaité, Paris 14. Métro: Gaité or Edgar Quinet. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 77 74. Also look out for 'Le Grand Retour de Boris S' by Serge Kribus at the Théâtre de l'Oeuvre, 55. Rue de Clichy, Paris 9. Métro: Place de Clichy. InfoTel.: 01 44 53 88 88.

La Belle Hélène - by Jacques Offenbach. Various dates from Friday, 13. October until Friday, 27. October. Théâtre du Châtelet, Place du Châtelet, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet. InfoTel.: 01 40 28 28 40.

Cosi Fan Tutti - by Herr Mozart no less. Production in Italian. Various dates from Thursday, 12. October until Sunday, 22. October. At he Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, 15. Avenue Montaigne, Paris 8. Métro: Franklin Roosevelt. InfoTel.: 01 49 52 50 50.

Puccini's Tosca - various dates from Thursday, 12. October until Saturday, 11. November. At the Opéra Bastille, Place de la Bastille, Paris 12. Métro: Bastille. Toll ResoTel.: 08 36 69 78 68. Check the Web site for both the Palais Garnier and Bastille for opera events as well as current ballet productions.

Pour l'Humour d'Oscar Wilde - "Le mariage est aussi nocif que les cigarettes et tellement plus cher." From Wednesday to Sunday, at the Akteon Théâtre, 11. Rue du Général Blaise, Paris 11. Métro: Saint-Amboise. InfoTel.: 01 43 38 74 62.

Cabaret - 'Berlin, Paris, New York' - this year is the 100th anniversary of Kurt Weill's birth, so it makes sense to bring him back with Lotte Lenya, if your imagination isposter: saison 2000, 2001, the de la cite uni intact. Directed by Christian Abart, with Claudine Van Beneden and Antoine Guillot. Until Tuesday, 26. December; on Tuesdays at 20:30, at the Pibar, 18. Rue Favart, Paris 2. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot. Info. Tel.: 01 55 79 05 77.

La Chute - is by Albert Camus, and is his last big piece. Adapted by Catherine Camus and François Chaumette, directed by Michel Miramont; it features Jean Lespert. From Tuesday to Saturday, at 20:00. At the Lucenaire, 53. Rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs. InfoTel.: 01 45 44 57 34.

Sunday Concerts - continue until the end of May 2001, at exactly 11:00. Ticket sales at the door start at 10:00. At the Théâtre du Châtelet, ¨Place du Châtelet, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet. Tickets also available at fnac, Bon Marché and Printemps. While the concerts are on, there are three different musical ateliers for kids, in three age groups.

Gros Chagrins - is by G. Courteline, and seems to be subtitled 'La Peur des Coups' and/or 'La Paix Chez Toi.' Presented by Les Tréteaux Bleus. Every Friday at 21:00 and on Saturdays and Sundays at 17:00. At Le Tambour Royal, 94. Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, Paris 11. Métro: Goncourt or Belleville. InfoTel.: 01 48 06 72 34.

Les Copropriétaires - has been written and is directed by Gérard Darier. 'Copropriétaires' means the owners of a condo, who have a sort of owner's club. Scheduled to run until 31. December, at the Théâtre Trévise, 14. Rue Trévise, Paris 9. Métro: Cadet or Grands Boulevards. InfoTel.: 01 45 08 50 06.

Il Signor di Balzac - is an exhibition first shown in Rome last June. Balzac visited Italy five times between 1836 and 1846, for some Balzacian adventures which included the Comtessa Clara Maffei, and later, for his novel 'Massimilla Doni.' In Naples there was Madame Hanska... leading to Ubuzac and Balzubu. Until Sunday, 7. January; open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Maison de Balzac, 57. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: Passy. Info. Tel.: 01 55 74 41 80.

1940 - or, 'Année de Tous les Destins,' retraces the WWII campaign of May-June 1940 in France which was fairly clear for one side - drive around the Maginot Line instead of through it - but extremely confusing for the defenders who suffered a total collapse. There are few combat photos in this exhibition, but the beginning of the come-back is presented. This exhibition continues until 21. July 2001. At the Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris - Musée Jean Moulin, Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Paris 15. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. InfoTel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

Antoine de Saint-Exupéry - called 'Celebration of a Myth,' this homage is to a real person; aviator and writer. Until Monday, 20. November; from 6:30 to 18:30. In the Panthéon, Place de Panthéon, Paris 5. Métro: Cluny or RER Luxembourg. InfoTel.: 01 44 32 18 00.

Le Siècle Métro - is about the 100th birthday of Paris' underground transport system. The Maison de la RATP has an exhibition about itself, continuing until Monday, 1. January 2001. Except Saturdays,, open from 10:00 to 18:00 daily. At 189. Rue de Bercy, Paris 12. Métro: Gare de Lyon, where 10 bus lines also have stops. Toll InfoTel.: 08 36 68 77 14. See 'Métro rides' below.

De Gaulle - August 1944 - The occasion for the new installation of an exhibition devoted to Général Charles De Gaulle and France-Libré is the 60th anniversary of the General's famous 'appeal' to the occupied French; broadcast from BBC transmitters on 18. June 1940. Open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de l'Armée, north entrance of the Hôtel des Invalides, 129. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Invalides, Latour-Maubourg or Varenne. InfoTel.: 01 44 42 37 72.

Oser Le Savoir - which translates as 'Dare to Know,' features '10 keys to the future' which will be presented with a changing program of new exhibitions and debates until the end of the year. This features a major theme per month, developed in cooperation with the CNRS, at the Cité des Sciences & de l'Industrie at La Villette. 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. InfoTel.: 01 40 05 80 00.

In the Jardin des Plantes - find the Grande Galerie de l'Evolution du Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle - for discovering evolution and Paris' treasures of natural history. The museums are in the Jardin des Plantes, with its entry at 36. Rue Geoffrey Saint-Hillaire, Paris 5. Métro: Place Monge is closest.

Ile-de-France - is not an island, but the region surrounding Paris - sort of like an 'island' in France. Find out more about its attractions for kids at the Espace Tourisme d'Ile-de-France, in the Carrousel du Louvre under the Pyramid. InfoTel.: 08 03 81 80 00.

5th Festival du Cinéma Allemand - continues until Tuesday, 17. October. Two directors stand out: Doris Dörrie and Volker Schlöndorff; but 10 major films will be shown. All at the Arlequin, 76. Rue de Rennes, Paris 6. Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Suplice. InfoTel.: 01 45 44 90 04.

Rouge - blood, fire, revolt - in 100 films; one of the three colors with a word in every one of the world's languages. Until Sunday, 22. October. At the Forum des Images, Porte Saint-Eustache, Forum des Halles, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet-Les Halles.

The Cinémathèque Française - has a non-stop program of rare film projections. Early fall's bill features films by Abel Gance, Chantal Akerman, Jack Arnold and Lou Castel. The film museum operates in two locations: at the Palais de Chaillot, garden entry; and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Auto-InfoTel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

For those with a lot of audible tolerance this section features 'Befores,' 'Dayclubbing,' 'Nightclubbing' and 'Afters.' No suits needed for any of these. If these places are closed when I go to them, they'll be open for you when you flash plastic.

Batofar - Nova says 'most hyped;' Nova also says with Nova DJ's. Special effects, especially on weekends, plus weekdays. Nothing on Mondays. At the Batofar, from 21:00. Entry, drink; 30 francs. Quai François Mauriac, Paris 13. Métro: Quai de la Gare. InfoTel.: 01 56 29 10 00.

Guingette Pirate - Next door on the Seine to the Batofar, so it's an either-or. On the Quai François Mauriac, Paris 13. Métro: Quai de la Gare. InfoTel.: 01 56 29 10 20.

Flèche d'Or - almost every night, loud surprises - sometimes on the old rails underneath. Closed Monday and Tuesday. 102, bis. Rue de Bagnolet, Paris 20. Métro: none close by. InfoTel.: 01 43 72 41 44.

Glaz'Art - Cuba Cubana includes lots of 'Happy Hours,' which are between 21:00 and 22:00. 'Afters' continue at the Batofar. All of it at Glaz'Art, 7 to 15. Avenue de la Porte de la Villette, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 40 36 55 65.

La Java - mainly Cuban music, helped out at times with heavy-duty African drums. Dance lessons too. Plus dancers. Go crazy! 105. Rue du Faubourg du Temple, Paris 10. Métro: Goncourt or Belleville. InfoTel.: 01 42 02 20 52.

Café de la Danse - doors open at 19:30. See Cox in concert on Friday, 20. October. Tokyo Zone comes on Tuesday, 31. October and stays until Sunday, 5. November. At the Café de la Danse, 5. Passage Louis Philippe, just off the Rue de Lappe. Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 47 00 57 59.

Cithéa - is more than its two zincs; jazz of all shapes, dancing. Cithéa isn't photogenic, but it's on Oberkampf too, at 114. Rue Oberkampf, Paris 11. Métro: Saint-Maur or Ménilmontant. InfoTel.: 01 40 21 70 95.

La Casa 128 - Cuban music, dancing, dining, more dancing; Thursday to Saturday; from 21:00 to 04:00. At 128. Rue Lafayette, Paris 10. Métro: Gare du Nord. InfoTel.: 01 48 01 05 71.

Le Gibus - Ex-hard techno, now 'house.' Is it softer? Sofas maybe? Open every night. At 18. Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, Paris 11. Métro: République. InfoTel.: 01 47 00 78 88. Same address below is not a mistake.

La Favela Chic - is the Parisian version of a Brazilian slum with year-round carnival music. Closed Sunday evenings. Check out Favela Chic, 18. Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, Paris 11. Métro: République. InfoTel.: 01 40 21 38 14.

Le Crocodile - More than 200 cocktails, since 1966. No famous people and accepts cash. At 6. Rue Royer-Collard, Paris 5. Métro: RER Luxembourg. InfoTel.: 01 43 54 32 37.

Roue Libre - is the RATP's program to get you out of the métro and off the buses, and on to your own pedal-power. HQ is at 95. bis, Rue Rambuteau in Les Halles. Bike rentals are from 20 francs per hour and tours are from 85 francs, and require reservations. On the month's last Saturday, long tours are organized - call the HQ for details. InfoTel.: 01 53 46 43 77.

Cyclotourists - should also check out the 'The Best Biking Guide to Paris And Day Trips Outside Paris,' which are by Rose Burke who has personally tested everything for you, both downhill and uphill. Rose has done everything except pedal for you.

Paris' Balloon - offers Paris views from a high place, without need of an elevator. Still in the air after a dubious summer, you should definitely call first to find out if it is a balloon day. For adults, 66 francs and 33 for kids. At the Parc André Citroën, Paris 15. Métro: Balard. InfoTel.: 01 44 26 20 01.

Musée de la Poupée - Paris' doll museum will be featuring the dolls made from 1850 to 1959 that pre-figured Barbie, followed by Barbie herself, from 1959 to 2000. The third part shows off Barbie's rivals; all the Bellas, Sindys and Nancy de Famosaposter: expo, chaise, daumesnil to mention just a few. Until Sunday, 5. November. Except Monday, open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. Musée de la Poupée, Impasse Berthaud, Paris 3. In an alley opposite the métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Free Entries - are offered to all on Sunday mornings, from 10:00 to 13:00, at some of Paris' own museums. This involves up to 15 different places, so I'm not going to list them all here. There are exceptions to the free entry idea. Most of Paris' own museums have modest entry charges anyway.

Guided Visits - Paris Gardens - the city has an annual program of guided visits to its gardens - also for the blind and the deaf; which include conferences, demonstrations of gardening and explanations about the life of plants. There is a brochure with more details available, and there is also the city's Web site. InfoTel.: 01 40 71 75 60.

Tickets:Théâtre On Line - presents the majority of theatre performances in Paris and the Ile-de-France, with news of new shows, criticism, and has a searchable database. Also see the Metropole reader's tip in this week's 'Au Bistro' column.

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logo, metropole sml midi logo No matter how good it tastes,
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Waldo Bini