A Smidgen of Christmas

photo: boulevard arago

Quiet times in the Boulevard Arago.

Searching For the Rest

Paris:- Saturday, 25. November 2000:- If you thought I had on my 'Three-Penny Eddie' trenchcoat and spent my 'week off' searching for the coming holiday season program for Paris, then you thought wrong. But that was last week.

Readers are getting seriously worried about this, I am getting seriously worried about this - and, if you've been looking like I have, you'll know the Web is no help. The Ville de Paris' own Web site laconically says it has no events available for this coming season.

However, as little as they are - and some are already known to club members in Paris - there is a short list of minor 'illuminating' items below. Meanwhile 'Three-Penny Eddie' goes out this week, with a big magnifying glass. Watch for next weeks' report.



Christmas and New Years - the complete program for the 2000/2001 holiday season is somewhat elusive. Some of you are planning to pass this season in Paris, and I guess you want to nail down your reservations.

Metropole has featured holiday issues in the past. You can look these up to get an idea of a typical holiday season in Paris because the details don't change radically from year to year. On account of the extra attention given to last year's so-called 'Millennium' thing, the best past issues to consult are 1998's. These are the '3'-series numbers.

Here is a short list of links to these issues. In 1998 the 'pre-Christmas' program started - somehow - with Issue 3.46 on Monday, 16. November. But the issues that will probably be most useful are numbers 350, 351, and 352, for the New Year's tips. The big 'deuxmille' was with us last year, but take a look at issues 451 and 452 all the same. Coming soon, one of these fine days, this year's program. Until then:

Paris' Christmas Tree - is in front of the Hôtel de Ville until Monday, 15. January 2001. Métro: Hotel de Ville.

Christmas Lights
  • Rue Royal, until the beginning of January
  • Avenue Montaigne, from 17:00 until midnight; until Friday, 5. January
  • Place Vendôme and Rue de la Paix, until Friday, 5. January
  • Avenue des Champs-Elysées, from 18:00; until Sunday, 31. December
  • Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré
Christmas Windows
  • Bon Marché, Rive Gauche, until Sunday, 26. December. At 24. Rue de Sèvres, Paris 7.
  • La Samaritaine, until Sunday, 31. December. At 19. Rue de la Monnaie, Paris 1.
  • Printemps, Haussmann, until Sunday, 31. December. Theme - 'Glam'rock.' At 64. Boulevard Haussmann, Paris 9.
  • Aux Galeries Lafayette, until Sunday, 31. December. Theme - 'Alice au Pays des Merveilles' which is otherwise known as 'Wonderland.' At 40. Boulevard Haussmann, Paris 9.

Le Théâtre de la Ville - has its usual ambitious program featuring theatre, dance, music and 'world' music. The 40 page brochure is too much to condense here, so here is the Web site. At Le Théâtre de la Ville, 2. Place du Châtelet, Paris 4. Métro: Châtelet. InfoTel.: 01 42 74 22 77.

Festival d'Art Sacré - takes place for the 23rd time in the 10 Paris churches with antique organs, and in the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées - for a total of 20 performances, continuing until Saturday, 16. December. At the Saint-Eustache church, also see Bill Viola's video 'The Greeting,' until Sunday, 7. January. Order tickets from the Festival d'Art Sacré, 14. Rue de Madrid, 75008 Paris. Also available at fnac. InfoTel.: 01 44 70 70 64 10.

Génies Timbrés - is an exhibition of postage stamps featuring lesser-known inventors and other egg-heads who have brought us things like the sewing machine and the tube radio. Until 24. February; open from Monday to Saturday, from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de la Poste, 34. Boulevard de Vaugirard, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01

5th Salon d'Art - of 'Histoires Naturelles,' features works of artists who have lent their talents to nature. The exhibit's poster photo is by Sarah Moon, for example. Except Tuesday, open from 10:00 to 17:00; until Sunday, 14. January. Free entry; part of the catalogue's price goes to replacing plants damaged by last December's storm. At the Galerie de Botanique, Jardin des Plantes, Museum d'Histoire Naturelle, 18. Rue Buffon, Paris 5. Métro: Place Monge. InfoTel.: 01 40 79 37 69.

Catacombs - a very long time ago Parisians were buried near where they lived, worked and worshiped. Then came another, later time in 1810, when cemeteries took up too much valuable downtown real estate, and the poor bones had to find other lodgings. Some of the bones are on permanent view at Paris' Catacombs. These are adorned with pithy signs with texts that are not only in French, but in Latin, Greek, Italian and even Swedish - so take a translator. Open Tuesday to Friday, from 14:00 to 16:00; on Saturday and Sunday, from 9:00 to 11:00 and from 14:00 to 16:00. At 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Parisposter: expo beuville, l'atelier an girard 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 47 63. Note: the Catacombs will be closed from some time in December until April 2001.

Beuville - exhibition of the works of an illustrator, cartoonist, painter of the air and of nature, but basically a funny guy. Until the end of January 2001. Open Tuesday to Friday, from 12:30 to 18:30; or by appointment. At L'Atelier An. Girard, 7. Rue Campagne Première, Paris 14. Métro: Vavin or Raspail. InfoTel/Fax.: 01 43 22 01 16.

'To Dare...' - "De l'audace, toujours de l'audace..." is a medical exhibition at the Musée de l'Assistance Publique featuring four examples of operations performed by Dr. Jules-Emile Péan, who died in 1898. Ahead of his time and daring, Dr. Péan was much envied by his contemporaries. Until Sunday, 31. December. At the Musée de l'Assistance Publique, Hôtel de Miramion, 47. Quai de la Tournelle, Paris 5. Métro: Maubert-Mutualité. InfoTel.: 01 40 27 50 05.

Salon Nautique - despite Paris' inland location, it is the nautical centre of France and the world for this international salon lasting nine days. From Saturday, 2. December until Sunday, 10. December, from 10:00 to 19:00 daily; until 23:00 on Friday, 8. December. Salon Nautique, at Paris Expo. Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles.

Le Dessin Pour Passion - some artists stayed in Paris during the war and some were 'invited' to Germany, and Paul Belmondo was one of these. The time seems right for the 'rediscovery' of this sculptor's designs, with an exhibition of 60 of them. Continues until Wednesday, 21. February. Except Monday, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Petit Palais, Musée des Beaux-Arts, Avenue Winston-Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

L'Ecole de Paris 1901-1929 - is a big expo devoted to artists who arrived in Paris before 1914, and photographers who showed up in the '20's - until it was mostly over in 1930. Based on the twin peaks of Montmartre and Montparnasse, these 'visitors' had a tremendous influence on French art. From Wednesday, 29. November until 11. March; exceptposter: salon d'art, histories naturelles, jardin des plantes Monday, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Paris, la Rue: Un Autre 1900 - exhibition of photos of Paris mostly shot from the 1890's until 1913, continues until Wednesday, 20. December. This exhibition will reopen on Tuesday, 2. January and will continue until Wednesday. 3. February 2001. At the Archives de Paris, 18. Boulevard Séurier, Paris 19. Métro: Porte des Lilas. IntoTel.: 01 52 72 41 23, and from abroad, InfoFax.: 33 1 53 72 41 34.

Mois de la Photo 2000 - this year is the 20th edition, with Paris as the main subject, divided into three sorts of views: Paris, Paris and Photography, and the Foreigner's Paris. In addition to young photographers, old photos never seen before will be shown. Watch for 40 - or 69! - related photographic exhibitions to go along with this - some are elsewhere in this issue, in Issue 5.46 and others are in this column below. Principal outpost is La Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

Paris en 80 Quartiers - in a year of big shows, this may be the biggest of all, and it's all about Paris and Parisians. Lots of photos, lots of neat and zoomy multimedia. The '80 Quartiers' are divided into the 20 arrondissements, and each one is featured in their 'City Halls.' Now showing at the 1st, and in the 2nd beginning on Wednesday; the 8th, 11th, 12th, 13th, 14th and 19th arrondissements. It all wraps up on Saturday, 6. January when it finishes in the 13th. All Mairies are open on weekdays and Saturday mornings. A free catalogue of 130 pages is also available in the Mairies.

This item closes the 'opening' events for this week. You will find some other new items below. The images are of posters that are around Paris, but some are for events - not necessarily listed in the text.

Paris Pour Escale - or, 'Passing Through,' features mostly non-western modern artists who are migrating through the art scene, from there to here and beyond. From Wednesday, 6. December until 11. February; except Monday, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Angoulême 2001 - for its 28th edition, this international comics festival has a lady cartoonist as its president for the first time; Florence Cestac. From Thursday, 25. January until Sunday, 28. January; from 10:00 to 19:00. Saturday until 21:00. The easiest way to get to Angoulême is via the TGV 'Atlantique' that departs from Montparnasse; the trip takes two hours and 20 minutes. By the autoroute A10, it is 445 kilometres. Thebrochure: pre program, angoleme 2001, design f cestac SNCF has a general 25 percent and special 50 percent reduction offers for festival visitors. Tickets for the festival, InfoTel.: 08 20 07 20 20. 'Passport' for three days, 150 francs. Hotel accommodations, InfoTel.: 05 45 69 48 65; from outside France, 33 5 45 69 48 65.

Diner des Cons - by Francis Veber was a hit on stage and in the flicks, in French; and now it has been adapted by Barbara Bray and the Dear Conjunction Theatre Company for a production in English. Beginning on Thursday, 21. December, the run is scheduled to continue until 21. April. Showtimes are on Thursday, Friday and Saturday, at 21:00. At the Sudden Théâtre - instead of the Petit Hébertot - at 14. bis, Rue Sainte-Isaure, Paris 18. Métro: Jules-Joffrin. InfoTel.: 01 44 70 06 69

La Gloire des Empereurs - China's last big exhibition in Paris was in 1973; this major one presents the considerable finds since then; from the Bronze Age to the Liao epoque. Also featured are the photographs of Roland Michaud. This new exhibition continues until Sunday, 28. January; from Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 17:40; on Thursdays until 20:00. At the Petit Palais. Musée des Beaux-Arts, Avenue Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

Manet, les Natures Mortes - is French for 'still life' so it is not as sinister as you may have thought. Impressionistic apples and pears by the square metre, but a major show all the same. Until Sunday, 7. January; open daily except Monday; from 10:00 to 18:00, to 21:45 on Thursdays, and from 9:00 to 18:00 on Sundays. Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER 'C' Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Visions du Future - is a really big show which presents an entire history of mankind's hopes - and fears. Except Tuesdays, the hours are from 10:00 to 19:15; on Thursdays until 21:45. Reservations required before 13:00. Until Monday, 1. January 2001, when the world is not coming to an end again. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général-Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Méditerranée - 'from Courbet to Matisse,' is a visual 'first take' to the shock of light that greeted a group of 39 painters between 1850 and 1920 when they discovered the Mediterranean sun and sky. An explosion of discovery, from the Gulf of Genoa to Catalonia. "Quel soleil ici!" Monnet wrote to Rodin in 1888. Until Monday, 15. January 2001; except Tuesday, daily from 10:00 to 20:00; on Wednesdays from 10:00 to 22:00. Reservations required before 13:00; none afterwards. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général-Eisenhower, Square Jean-Perrin, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 10.

Fra Angelico to Bonnard - features 106 major paintings from the extraordinary Rau Collection - by El Greco, Tiepolo, Millet, Fragonard, Pissarro, Degas, Cézanne, Monet, Renoir, to name a few. Until Thursday, 4. January 2001. Daily from 11:00 to 19:00; on Thursdays until 22:00. In the French Senat's Musée du Luxembourg, 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Suplice, Odéon or Mabillon. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 25 95.

Monet At Marmottan - an exhibition showing a fairly complete collection of paintings by Claude Monet. A special section is set aside for the Giverny paintings. Degas, Caillebotte, Sisley and Gauguin are also present, but this is nearly a mono-Monet show. Until Sunday, 31. December; from 10:00 to 17:00, except Mondays. Musée Marmottan, 2. Rue Louis-Boilly, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette. InfoTel.: 01 42 24 07 02.

Le Coton et la Mode - ordinary cotton may form most t-shirts, but this material has a long and rich history that is not particularly well-known. Until Sunday, 11. March; daily except Monday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Galliera, 10. Avenue Pierre-1er-de-Serbie, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 47 20 85 23..

Argenterie d'Usage - 'Argenterie de Prestige' is an exhibition of the best French silverwork from the 18th and 19th centuries, assembled from the collections of the city's Petit Palais and the Musée des Beaux-Arts. Until Sunday, 25. February 2001; from Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Cognacq-Jay, 8. Rue Elzévir, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 40 27 07 21.

L'Arche Ethiopienne - Exhibition of works from the 14th to 18th centuries, from Ethiopian and European collections, featuring African Christianity which dates to the 4th century. Until Sunday, 7. January. At the Terrace Lautréamont, Porte Rambuteau, Les Halles, Paris 1. Métro: Les Halles. InfoTel.: 01 42 33 82 50.

Notre Peyre - 'Qui êtes odieux,' features the works of Gilbert Peyre who does funny stuff that critics might not think is art - which is serious business. See his 'King Pig.' Until Sunday, 31. December. At Paris' weird art centre, the Halle Saint-Pierre, 2. Rue Ronsard, Paris 18. Métro: Anvers or Barbés. InfoTel.: 01 42 58 72 89.

Archéo 2000 - launches the opening of the restored Orangerie, which is Paris' only 17th century example - in the Hôtel Le Peletier de Saint-Fargeau. On show: a collection of the archeological finds from the recent Bercy digs; featuring in whole or parts, ten 4-6000 year-old canoes. These have become part of the Musée Carnavalet - Historie de Paris permanent collection. Open Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin-Vert. InfoTel.: 01 44 59 58 58.

Sam Szafran - 'L'Atelier dans l'Atelier' presents the artist with his pastels and watercolors of interiors andbrochure: danse, theatre de la ville stairways, in Ary Scheffer's recently renovated atelier. Besides 50 well-known works, 50 other images are from private collections. This exhibition continues until Sunday, 14. January. At the Musée de la Vie Romantique, Hôtel Scheffer-Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Sous le Ciel de la Peinture - Paris - 150 works; oils, aquarelles, drawings, from the 17th century to today; by David, Corot, Delacroix, Picasso, Matisse and others, all showing the 'light' of Paris. This is a highly interesting show, with some seldom seen rare views of Paris. Until Sunday, 17. December. In the city's own Salle Saint-Jean, Hôtel de Ville, Rue de Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville.

"Du chaos dans le pinceau..." - is from Victor Hugo's 'Les Misérables' as is this exhibition of his little-known designs, paintings, furniture and other elements point towards surrealism. Featured in a recent issue. Until Sunday 7. January; from Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Maison de Victor Hugo, 6. Place des Vosges, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 10 16.

Le Diable Sucré - features cakes, cannibalism, death and... no, it's not the same show as Halloween or Toussaint. Tuesday to Friday, 14:00 to 19:00; weekends, 13:00 to 19:00. Until Sunday, 28. January. At the Pavillon Paul Delouvier in the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurés, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 40 03 75 75.

This year's Fêtes d'Automne continues until the end of the year, with Italy as the theme this year. Some of the exhibitions featured here are part of this festival, while other exhibitions, concerts and special theatre productions are too numerous for complete listings. The city's Web site has more, and there is also the InfoTel.: 01 52 45 17 17.

Le Jardin Médiéval - is what has been done with the space between the Cluny and the Boulevard Saint-German, at the corner of the Boulevard Saint-Michel. More exactly, it sort of surrounds the museum. Métro: Cluny.


Panorama - 'des Capitales Européennes' is the full title, and this architectural exhibition takes place in the city's dedicated museum for it; at the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland. InfoTel.:01 42 76 33 97.

Images of Bretagne - features a selection of Henry de Waroquier designs, from the rich drawing cabinets of the Musée des Années 30; on show until Sunday, 28. January. In the Espace Landowski, 28. Avenue André Morizet, Boulogne-Billancourt. Métro: Marcel-Sembat. InfoTel.:01 55 18 46 42.

Affiches 50-60 - are old and rare posters for movies, on exhibition and for sale. Until December. At the Galerie Grand Monde, in the Cour Damoye, entry via 12. Place de la Bastille, Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 48 05 51 30. The Cour Damoye has several other galleries and shops, so a visit to all of it will be worth your while.

Painted Walls - or, 'Murs Peints,' is a Paris expression of street decor, found on about 100 walls in the city. See Tony Soulé's at 255. Rue de Bercy, Paris 12; or Hervé di Rosa's at 96. Rue d'Alleray, Paris 15. Keep your eyes open for the others - even in the Rue de Belleville.

L'Oeil et la Main - features more than 200 photos of Bourdelle at work and his works in progress, for the first time, from the collection of Mme Dufet-Bourdelle. Continuing until 18. February. Except Monday, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Bourdelle, 18. Rue Antoine-Bourdelle, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. InfoTel.: 01 49 54 73 73.

La Terre Vue du Ciel - is 150 photos taken of 75 countries from the air over 10 years by Yann Arthus-Bertrand. Slated to come down on at the end of October, this open-air gallery is hung outside from the railings of the Luxembourg gardens on the Saint-Michel side. Itposter: genies timbres, musee de la poste now will continue until the end of the year. A fascinating and free show. The photos may also be illuminated for night viewing. Along the Rue de Médicis, Paris 6. Métro: RER Luxembourg is closest.

Des Européens à Paris - is a photographic exhibition, presenting Paris as a place to visit or an European crossroads; voyagers leave traces and their histories here. Until Saturday, 3. February. At the reception area of the Hôtel de Ville, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel-de-Ville. If Rue Lobau doesn't seem right, try the Rue de Rivoli entrance.

Ephémères - means transitory because the art works are vegetal, and otherwise known as 'Land Art.' After having seen cabbages at Invalides or sets of twigs at Etoile, these creations are no longer 'en situ,' but they continue as photos at La Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

Paris En 3D - from the stereoscopic images 1850 to the virtual reality of 2000; an image show within the framework of the 'Mois de le Photo.' Except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40; until Sunday, 31. December. Musée Carnavalet - Historie de Paris, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 44 59 58 58.

Jean Rouch - 'Récites Photographiques' is an exhibition that continues until Sunday, 31. December. Open daily except Tuesday, from 9:45 to 17:15. At the Musée de l'Homme, Palais de Chaillot, 17. Place de Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro.

Theatre Notes: - 'Une Chatte Sur un Toit Brûlant' is by Tennessee Williams; at the Théâtre de la Renaissance, 20. Boulevard Saint-Martin, Paris 10. InfoTel.: 01 42 08 18 50. 'On Ne Refait Pas l'Avenir' has a guardian angel and is at the Bouffes Parisiens, 4. Rue Monsigny, Paris 2. InfoTel.: 01 42 96 92 42.

Le Cirque en Laponie - features 'way up north' with Scandinavian effects by the Cirque Messidor. Set up across from the Palais des Congrés, Paris 16. Métro: Porte Maillot. InfoTel.: 01 43 21 51 40.

Piste - is the Cirque Bouglione's new show which continues until Sunday, 31. December. At Paris' Cirque d'Hiver, Place Pasedeloup, Paris 11. Métro: Filles-de-Calvaire. InfoTel.: 08 92 68 08 92.

Puccini's Tosca - has finished its run, but check the Web site for both the Palais Garnier and Bastille for other opera events as well as current ballet productions.

Pour l'Humour d'Oscar Wilde - "Le mariage est aussi nocif que les cigarettes et tellementposter: lucie parapluie, thr jemmapes plus cher." From Wednesday to Sunday, at the Akteon Théâtre, 11. Rue du Général Blaise, Paris 11. Métro: Saint-Amboise. InfoTel.: 01 43 38 74 62.

Cabaret - 'Berlin, Paris, New York' - this year is the 100th anniversary of Kurt Weill's birth, so it makes sense to bring him back with Lotte Lenya, if your imagination is intact. Directed by Christian Abart, with Claudine Van Beneden and Antoine Guillot. Until Tuesday, 26. December; on Tuesdays at 20:30, at the Pibar, 18. Rue Favart, Paris 2. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot. Info. Tel.: 01 55 79 05 77.

La Chute - is by Albert Camus, and is his last big piece. Adapted by Catherine Camus and François Chaumette, directed by Michel Miramont; it features Jean Lespert. From Tuesday to Saturday, at 20:00. At the Lucenaire, 53. Rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs. InfoTel.: 01 45 44 57 34.

Le Procès - is by Franz Kafka, and is about the banker Joesph K. who gets arrested without any reason. Adapted and directed by Emile Salimov; it features Bernard Gabnay. In the Théâtre Rouge, from Tuesday to Saturday, at 20:00. Also at the Lucenaire, 53. Rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs. InfoTel.: 01 45 44 57 34.

Les Affinités Electives - is by Goethe, and is about Charlotte and Edouard who have invited some friends in to look at their weird stuff. Adapted by René Fix and directed by Claudia Morin. From Tuesday to Saturday, until Saturday, 6. January; at 18:30. Also at the Lucenaire, 53. Rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs. InfoTel.: 01 45 44 57 34.

Sunday Concerts - continue until the end of May 2001, at exactly 11:00. Ticket sales at the door start at 10:00. At the Théâtre du Châtelet, Place du Châtelet, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet. Tickets also available at fnac, Bon Marché and Printemps. While the concerts are on, there are three different musical ateliers for kids, in three age groups.

Gros Chagrins - is by G. Courteline, and seems to be subtitled 'La Peur des Coups' and/or 'La Paix Chez Toi.' Presented by Les Tréteaux Bleus. Every Friday at 21:00 and on Saturdays and Sundays at 17:00. At Le Tambour Royal, 94. Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, Paris 11. Métro: Goncourt or Belleville. InfoTel.: 01 48 06 72 34.

Les Copropriétaires - has been written and is directed by Gérard Darier. 'Copropriétaires' means the owners of a condo, who have a sort of owner's club. Scheduled to run until Sunday, 31. December, at the Théâtre Trévise, 14. Rue Trévise, Paris 9. Métro: Cadet or Grands Boulevards. InfoTel.: 01 45 08 50 06.

1990 - 2000 - announces 10 years' of acquisitions by the library of the National Museum of Natural History. The expo for this may be over, but the Web site for it may still be online. Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle, 38. Rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire, Paris 5. Métro: Place Monge. InfoTel.: 01 40 79 36 27.

Il Signor di Balzac - is an exhibition first shown in Rome last June. Balzac visited Italy five times between 1836 and 1846, for some Balzacian adventures which included the Comtessa Clara Maffei, and later, for his novel 'Massimilla Doni.' In Naples there was Madame Hanska... leading to Ubuzac and Balzubu. Vachement Ubuque! Until Sunday, 7. January; open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Maison de Balzac, 57. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: Passy. Info. Tel.: 01 55 74 41 80.

1940 - or, 'Année de Tous les Destins,' retraces the WWII campaign of May-June 1940 in France which was fairly clear for one side - drive around the Maginot Line instead of through it - but extremely confusing for the defenders who suffered a total collapse. There are few combat photos in this exhibition, but the beginning of the come-back is presented. This exhibition continues until Saturday, 21. July 2001. At the Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris - Musée Jean Moulin, Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Paris 15. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. InfoTel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

Le Siècle Métro - is about the 100th birthday of Paris' underground transport system. The Maison de la RATP has an exhibition about itself, continuing until Monday, 1. January 2001. Except Saturdays,, open from 10:00 to 18:00 daily. At 189. Rue de Bercy, Paris 12. Métro: Gare de Lyon, where 10 bus lines also have stops. Toll InfoTel.: 08 36 68 77 14. See 'Métro rides' below.

De Gaulle - August 1944 - The occasion for the new installation of an exhibition devoted to Général Charles De Gaulle and France-Libré is the 60th anniversary of the General's famous 'appeal' to the occupied French; broadcast from BBC transmitters on 18. June 1940. Open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de l'Armée, north entrance of the Hôtel des Invalides, 129. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Invalides, Latour-Maubourg or Varenne. InfoTel.: 01 44 42 37 72.

Oser Le Savoir - which translates as 'Dare to Know,' features '10 keys to the future' which will be presented with a changing program of new exhibitions and debates until the end of the year. This features a major theme per month, developed in cooperation with the CNRS, at the Cité des Sciences & de l'Industrie at La Villette. 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. InfoTel.: 01 40 05 80 00.

Ile-de-France - is not an island, but the region surrounding Paris - sort of like an 'island' in France. Find out more about its attractions for kids at the Espace Tourisme d'Ile-de-France, in the Carrousel du Louvre under the Pyramid. InfoTel.: 08 03 81 80 00.

The Cinémathèque Française - has a non-stop program of rare film projections. The film museum operates in two locations: at the Palais de Chaillot, garden entry; and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Auto-InfoTel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

This section features 'Befores,' 'Dayclubbing,' 'Nightclubbing' and 'Afters' for those with a lot of audible tolerance. Coming soon: places where suits are needed for looking spiffy while daring to tango.

Batofar - Nova says 'most hyped;' Nova also says with Nova DJ's. Special effects, especially on weekends, plus weekdays. Nothing on Mondays. At the Batofar, from 21:00. Entry, drink; 30 francs. Quai François Mauriac, Paris 13. Métro: Quai de la Gare. InfoTel.: 01 56 29 10 00.

Guingette Pirate - Next door on the Seine to the Batofar, so it's an either-or. On the Quai François Mauriac, Paris 13. Métro: Quai de la Gare. InfoTel.: 01 56 29 10 20.

Flèche d'Or - almost every night, loud surprises - sometimes on the old rails underneath. Closed Monday and Tuesday. 102, bis. Rue de Bagnolet, Paris 20. Métro: none close by. InfoTel.: 01 43 72 41 44.

Glaz'Art - includes lots of 'Happy Hours,' which are between 21:00 and 22:00. 'Afters' continue at the Batofar. All of it at Glaz'Art, 7 to 15. Avenue de la Porte de la Villette, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 40 36 55 65.

La Java - mainly Cuban music, helped out at times with heavy-duty African drums. Dance lessons too. Plusposter: tresor public, cafe de la danse dancers. Go crazy! 105. Rue du Faubourg du Temple, Paris 10. Métro: Goncourt or Belleville. InfoTel.: 01 42 02 20 52.

Café de la Danse - doors open at 19:30. See 'Tresor Public' until Saturday, 2. December, but not on Sunday. The Café de la Danse, 5. Passage Louis Philippe, just off the Rue de Lappe. Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 47 00 57 59.

Cithéa - is more than its two zincs; jazz of all shapes, dancing. Cithéa isn't photogenic, but it's on Oberkampf too, at 114. Rue Oberkampf, Paris 11. Métro: Saint-Maur or Ménilmontant. InfoTel.: 01 40 21 70 95.

La Casa 128 - Cuban music, dancing, dining, more dancing; Thursday to Saturday; from 21:00 to 04:00. At 128. Rue Lafayette, Paris 10. Métro: Gare du Nord. InfoTel.: 01 48 01 05 71.

Le Gibus - Ex-hard techno, now 'house.' Is it softer? Sofas maybe? Open every night. At 18. Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, Paris 11. Métro: République. InfoTel.: 01 47 00 78 88. Same address below is not a mistake.

La Favela Chic - is the Parisian version of a Brazilian slum with year-round carnival music. Closed Sunday evenings. Check out Favela Chic, 18. Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, Paris 11. Métro: République. InfoTel.: 01 40 21 38 14.

Le Crocodile - More than 200 cocktails, since 1966. No famous people and accepts cash. At 6. Rue Royer-Collard, Paris 5. Métro: RER Luxembourg. InfoTel.: 01 43 54 32 37.

Roue Libre - is the RATP's program to get you out of the métro and off the buses, and on to your own pedal-power. HQ is at 95. bis, Rue Rambuteau in Les Halles. Bike rentals are from 20 francs per hour and tours are from 85 francs, and require reservations. On the month's last Saturday, long tours are organized - call the HQ for details. InfoTel.: 01 53 46 43 77.

Cyclotourists - should also check out the 'The Best Biking Guide to Paris And Day Trips Outside Paris,' which are by Rose Burke who has personally tested everything for you, both downhill and uphill. Rose has done everything except pedal for you.

Les Artists Américains à Paris - 'in 1900.' From Friday, 2. February until 29. April. At the Musée Carnavalet.
Balzac Dans Ses Murs - presents a new layout at the museum, and emphasis on Balzac's working style and life in Passy. From Thursday; 15. February until 15. May, at the Maison de Balzac.
Ani, Capitale de l'An Mil - From Thursday; 15. February until 15. May, at the Pavillon des Arts.
L'Or des Amazones - From Friday, 16. March until 15. July; at the Musée Cernuschi
La Mode Enfantine - From Sunday, 1. April until 31. October; at the Musée Galliera.
Au-Dessus des Catacombs - From Wednesday, 2. May until 31. December; at the Catacombs, or course.
Le Dessin Romantique - From Thursday, 3. May until 15. July; at the Musée de la Vie Romantique.

The Notre-Dame Crypt - features archaeologic discoveries dating to Gallo-Roman times made since 1970 and is open to individuals on the first Thursday of each month at 10:30. The next dates are Thursdays, 7. December and 4. January. In front of Notre-Dame, Paris 4. Métro: Cité. InfoTel.: 01 44 59 58 33.

Echos de Lumière - the city has commissioned Keiichi Tahara with the light job of illuminating 600 metres of the underground part of the Canal Saint-Martin, between the Rue du Chemin-Vert and Oberkampf. The 'echoes' are built into the canal's waters and the light projections will be set off by passing boats. This will become a permanent Paris attraction. To view this, embark at the Port de l'Arsenal with Canauxrama or Paris Canal. Info. Tel.: 01 42 76 67 00.

Musée de la Poupée - Paris' doll museum is featuring the dolls from the 'Kingdom of the Apes,' which include 200 monkeys as toys, souvenirs and piecesposter: festival d'art sacre, to 16 december of art. Until 11. March. Except Monday, open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. Musée de la Poupée, Impasse Berthaud, Paris 3. In an alley opposite the métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Paris' Balloon - offers Paris views from a high place, without need of an elevator. It might still be in the air after a stormy fall, but you should definitely call first to find out if it is a balloon day. For adults, 66 francs and 33 for kids. At the Parc André Citroën, Paris 15. Métro: Balard. InfoTel.: 01 44 26 20 01.

Free Entries - are offered to all on Sunday mornings, from 10:00 to 13:00, at some of Paris' own museums. This involves up to 15 different places, so I'm not going to list them all here. There are exceptions to the free entry idea. Most of Paris' own museums have modest entry charges anyway.

Guided Visits - Paris Gardens - the city has an annual program of guided visits to its gardens - also for the blind and the deaf; which include conferences, demonstrations of gardening and explanations about the life of plants. There is a brochure with more details available, and there is also the city's Web site. InfoTel.: 01 40 71 75 60.

Tickets:Théâtre On Line - presents the majority of theatre performances in Paris and the Ile-de-France, with news of new shows, criticism, and has a searchable database.

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