It's Not the Same Old Thing

photo: visitors at catacombs

The daily line of visitors to the Catacombs.

Paris' Newer-than-new Program

Paris:- Saturday, 30. December 2000:- In this edition there are a few new items. Some should have been included some time ago, and a few others are the beginning of the new millennium's avalanche.

This 'Scene' page features Paris' regular events, even if they are happening at this holiday season. The 'Scene II' page has the holiday season's 'leftovers.' There are so many of these that including them hereposter: forum images, enfants would make this page unreasonably large. If you are a circus fan, be sure to look at the other page.

Regarding my last week's - "'Yes' - there will be fireworks at the Tour Eiffel on Sunday evening on 31. December" - I have to admit I guessed wrong. Just because fireworks at the Tour Eiffel are a regular New Years Eve event - it doesn't mean that they are necessary for 2001. That the city didn't feel it needed to warn anybody, is just an indication of the current pre-election chaos at the Hôtel de Ville.

When I last had the chance, I couldn't find the city's own giant Christmas tree either. Even though I never found out where it is - or was - by now its location is moot. Most Parisians will keep their own trees up until the end of January, except for the ones who are already tired of them.

Again this week all regular items are on this page and most seasonal items are on this week's Scene II page. New Years, in its form of 'five acts,' has finally - at long last - been consigned to history - with this final update being done on Monday, 1. January 2001.



Parfum l'Expo - is supposed to introduce you to the magic world of perfume, which is a major industry in France. Continuing until Sunday, 4. March. Open daily except Monday, from 9:30 to 18:00; on Sundays and some holidays from 10:00 to 19:00. At the Palais de la Découverte, Avenue Franklin D. Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: Franklin D. Roosevelt or Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 56 43 20 21.

Le Musée Gustave Moreau - is in the old apartment of Gustave Moreau's parents and has been restored to the way it was when he turned it into a personal museum. In the 2nd and 3rd floor ateliers, Moreau's collection is as it was discovered by André Breton and the surrealists. Open Monday and Thursday from 11:00 to 17:15; and from 10:00 to 12:45 and 14:00 to 17:15, from Thursday to Sunday. Musée Gustave Moreau, 14? Rue de la Rochefoucauld, Paris 9. Métro: Trinité. InfoTel.: 01

Polyeucte - written by Pierre Corneille in 1641 and is now directed by Thierry Harcourt. It is either a tragedy or a eulogy to fanaticism. Until Sunday, 25. February; fromposter: expo parfum Tuesday to Saturday at 20:30 and at 15:30 on Sundays. At the Théâtre Mouffetard, 73. Rue Mouffetard, Paris 5. Métro: Monge. InfoTel.: 01 43 31 11 99.

Sur Le Mékong - is the result of two months' work by Jean-Jacques Dournon in Vietnam's Mekong delta, it features drawing, paintings and photographs. Until Friday, 2. February; from Monday to Friday; from 10:00 to 18:00. Hôtel d'Albret, 31. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 67 00.

Poster Festival of the Year 2000 - Paris jumped the gun by having its 'Millennium' festival a year early, but some of the posters for it are exceptional. See - and perhaps buy - these now and until the end of March. At the Galerie Grand Monde, in the Cour Damoye, entry via 12. Place de la Bastille, Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 48 05 51 30. The Cour Damoye has several other galleries and shops, so a visit to all of it will be worth your while.

This item closes the 'opening' events for this week. You will find some other new items below. The images are of posters that are around Paris, but some are for events - not necessarily listed in the text.

René Margotton - Works - returning to the Parisian scene, this student of Fernand Léger shows his symbolic and lyric works from Wednesday, 10. January until Wednesday, 31. January. Open from Tuesday to Friday, from 14:00 to 19:30; on Saturday from 11:00 to 19:30. At the new Galerie Orsel, 47 bis. Rue Orsel, Paris 18. Métro: Anvers. InfoTel.: 01 42 29 13 00.

The Paris Dog Show - is not about the 15 tons deposited by dogs daily on Paris streets, but is a salon for fancy dogs - some 5000 of them, divided by 300 breeds. From Friday, 12. January until Sunday, 14. January. In the Parc Floral at the Esplanade du Château de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes. Entry: 50 francs for adults; children under 12, free.

Baldini at the Sénat - in a short exhibition, the French Sénat has invited the world-famous sculptor Jean-Pierre Baldini to show his bronzes - some of them huge - from Monday, 15. January until Sunday, 28. January. On weekdays from 10:30 to 19:00 and on weekends from 14:00 to 19:00. At the Hôtel de Questure, 64. Boulevard Saint-Michel, Paris 5. Métro: RER Luxembourg. For an appointment, phone: 06 63 01 57 26.

Angoulême 2001 - for its 28th edition, this international comics festival has a lady cartoonist as its president for the first time; Florence Cestac. From Thursday, 25. January until Sunday, 28. January; from 10:00 to 19:00. Saturday until 21:00. The easiest way to get to Angoulême is via the TGV 'Atlantique' that departs from Montparnasse; the trip takes two hours and 20 minutes. By the autoroute A10, it is 445 kilometres. The SNCF has a general 25 percent and special 50 percent reduction offers for festival visitors. Tickets for the festival, InfoTel.: 08 20 07 20 20. 'Passport' for three days, 150 francs. Hotel accommodations, InfoTel.: 05 45 69 48 65; from outside France, 33 5 45 69 48 65.

Rétromobile 2001 - without details, but here because so many readers are old car fans - the coming edition of Rétromobile takes place in Paris from Friday to Sunday, 9. to 18. February 2001.

Semi-Marathon de Paris - the 9th edition of this little stroll through Paris' 13th and 12th arrondissements and the Bois de Vincennes is scheduled for Sunday, 4. March 2001. Sign-up deadline is 16. February.

L'Or des Amazones - is an exhibition of the prestigious works by nomads from the steppes of Asia; from 600 BC to 400 AD. All the pieces are on loan from southern Russian museums andposter: festival posters, grande monde include the entire collection from the tomb of the Princess of Kobiakovo. Coming to the Musée Cernuschi on Friday, 16. March; continuing until 15. July.. Musée Cernuschi, 7. Avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers. InfoTel.: 01 45 63 50 75.

International Marathon de Paris - is the 25th edition and it takes place in Paris about a month later, on Sunday, 8. April 2001. This 'big one' takes routes into both the Bois de Boulogne and the Bois de Vincennes, but mainly runs through Paris' centre on the right bank, with a dip into the 16th arrondissement. Sign-up deadline is 18. March.

Les Andalousies - is sub-headed 'from Damascus to Cordoba,' and concerns the concentration of culture founded by the Umayyad dynasty, begun in Damascus and transferred to Andalusia in 756 AD. Until Sunday, 15. April; daily except Mondays; from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Institut du Monde Arabe, 1. Rue des Fosses-Saint-Bernard, Paris 5. Métro: Cardinal Lemoine. InfoTel.: 01 40 51 38 38.

Paris Pour Escale - or, 'Passing Through,' features mostly non-western modern artists who are migrating through the art scene, from there to here and beyond. Until Sunday, 11. February; except Monday, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

L'Ecole de Paris 1901-1929 - is a big expo devoted to foreign artists who arrived in Paris before 1914, and photographers who showed up in the '20's - until it was mostly over in 1930. Based on the twin peaks of Montmartre and Montparnasse, these 'visitors' had a tremendous influence on French art. Until Sunday, 11. March; except Monday, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

La Gloire des Empereurs - China's last big exhibition in Paris was in 1973; this major one presents the considerable finds since then; from the Bronze Age to the Liao epoque. Also featured are the photographs of Roland Michaud. This exhibition continues until Sunday, 28. January; from Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 17:40; on Thursdays until 20:00. At the Petit Palais. Musée des Beaux-Arts, Avenue Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

Manet, les Natures Mortes - is French for 'still life' so it is not as sinister as you may have thought. Impressionistic apples and pears by the square metre, but a major show all the same. Until Sunday, 7. January; open daily except Monday; from 10:00 to 18:00, to 21:45 on Thursdays, and from 9:00 to 18:00 on Sundays. Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER 'C' Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Méditerranée - 'from Courbet to Matisse,' is a visual 'first take' to the shock of light that greeted a group of 39 painters between 1850 and 1920 when theyposter: thr mouffetard, polyeucte discovered the Mediterranean sun and sky. An explosion of discovery, from the Gulf of Genoa to Catalonia. "Quel soleil ici!" Monnet wrote to Rodin in 1888. Until Monday, 15. January 2001; except Tuesday, daily from 10:00 to 20:00; on Wednesdays from 10:00 to 22:00. Reservations required before 13:00; none afterwards. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général-Eisenhower, Square Jean-Perrin, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 10.

Fra Angelico to Bonnard - features 106 major paintings from the extraordinary Rau Collection - by El Greco, Tiepolo, Millet, Fragonard, Pissarro, Degas, Cézanne, Monet, Renoir, to name a few. Until Thursday, 4. January 2001. Daily from 11:00 to 19:00; on Thursdays until 22:00. In the French Sénat's Musée du Luxembourg, 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Suplice, Odéon or Mabillon. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 25 95.

Les Crimes de Paris - shows off Paris' crime scenes, according to thrillers dating from Louis' time to WWI. Until 31. March. From Tuesday to Friday, from 14:00 to 18:00; and on Saturday from 10:00 to 17:00. At the Bibliothèque de Littérature Policière - aka BILIPO; 48-50. Rue du Cardinal-Lemoine, Paris 5. Métro: Cardinal-Lemoine. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 93 00.

Arman - his 'Vingt Stations de l'Objet' have been chosen by the sculptor to represent the past 20 centuries, from Year One up to the invention of photography. This exhibition continues until Wednesday, 21. March. Except Mondays, open from 11:00 to 19:00. At the Couvent des Cordeliers, 15. Rue de l'Ecole de Médécine, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon. InfoTel.: 06 66 84 67 25.

Friedl Dicker-Brandies - an exhibition of pastels, designs and engravings by this artist, known for works associated with Bauhaus, and the camp at Terezin. Except Saturday, daily from 11:00 to 18:00 and 10:00 to 18:00 on Sundays until Monday, 5. March. At the Musée d'Art et d'Historie du Judaisme, Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 86 48.

Morellet - features a large body of work, from geometric paintings done in 1952, up to contemporary executions. Until Sunday, 29. January; except Mondays, from 12:00 to 19:00; from 12:00 to 21:30 on Tuesdays, and from 10:00 to 19:00 on weekends. At the Galerie Nationale du Jeu du Paume, in the Tuleries at the Place de la Concorde, Paris 1. Métro: Concorde. InfoTel.: 01 47 03 12 50.

Le Dessin Pour Passion - some artists stayed in Paris during the war and some were 'invited' to Germany, and Paul Belmondo was one of these. The time seems right for the 'rediscovery' of this sculptor's designs, with an exhibition of 60 of them. Continues until Wednesday, 21. February. Except Monday, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Petit Palais, Musée des Beaux-Arts, Avenue Winston-Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

Le Coton et la Mode - ordinary cotton may form most t-shirts, but this material has a long and rich history that is not particularly well-known. Until Sunday, 11. March; daily except Monday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Galliera, 10. Avenue Pierre-1er-de-Serbie, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 47 20 85 23..

Génies Timbrés - is an exhibition of postage stamps featuring lesser-known inventors and other egg-heads who have brought us things like the sewing machine and the tube radio. Until Saturday, 24. February; open from Monday to Saturday, from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de la Poste, 34. Boulevard de Vaugirard, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse.

Argenterie d'Usage - 'Argenterie de Prestige' is an exhibition of the best French silverwork from the 18th and 19th centuries, assembled from the collections of the city's Petit Palais and the Musée des Beaux-Arts. Until Sunday, 25. February 2001; from Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Cognacq-Jay, 8. Rue Elzévir, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 40 27 07 21.

5th Salon d'Art - of 'Histoires Naturelles,' features works of artists who have lent their talents to nature. The exhibit's poster photo is by Sarah Moon, for example. Except Tuesday, open from 10:00 to 17:00; until Sunday, 14. January. Free entry; part of the catalogue's price goes to replacing plants damaged by last December's storm. At the Galerie de Botanique, Jardin des Plantes, Museum d'Histoire Naturelle, 18. Rue Buffon, Paris 5. Métro: Place Monge. InfoTel.: 01 40 79 37 69.

L'Arche Ethiopienne - Exhibition of works from the 14th to 18th centuries, from Ethiopian and European collections, featuring African Christianity which dates to the 4th century. Until Sunday, 7. January. At the Terrace Lautréamont, Porte Rambuteau, Les Halles, Paris 1. Métro: Les Halles. InfoTel.: 01 42 33 82 50.

Archéo 2000 - launches the opening of the restored Orangerie, which is Paris' only 17th century example - in the Hôtel Le Peletier de Saint-Fargeau. On show - a collection of the archeological finds from the recent Bercy digs; featuring in whole or parts, ten 4-6000 year-old canoes. These have become part of the Musée Carnavalet - Historie de Paris' permanent collection. Open Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin-Vert. InfoTel.: 01 44 59 58 58.

Sam Szafran - 'L'Atelier dans l'Atelier' presents the artist with his pastels and watercolors of interiors and stairways, in Ary Scheffer's recently renovated atelier. Besides 50 well-known works, 50 other images are from private collections. This exhibitionbrochure: paris bibliotheques continues until Sunday, 14. January. At the Musée de la Vie Romantique, Hôtel Scheffer-Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

"Du chaos dans le pinceau..." - is from Victor Hugo's 'Les Misérables' as is this exhibition of his little-known designs, paintings, furniture and other elements point towards surrealism. Featured in a recent issue. Until Sunday 7. January; from Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Maison de Victor Hugo, 6. Place des Vosges, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 10 16.

Le Diable Sucré - features cakes, cannibalism, death and... no, it's not the same show as Halloween or Toussaint. Tuesday to Friday, 14:00 to 19:00; weekends, 13:00 to 19:00. Until Sunday, 28. January. At the Pavillon Paul Delouvier in the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurés, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 40 03 75 75.

Le Jardin Médiéval - is what has been done with the space between the Cluny and the Boulevard Saint-German, at the corner of the Boulevard Saint-Michel. More exactly, it sort of surrounds the museum. Métro: Cluny. Expect more things mediaeval to be popping up in Paris soon.


Les Jardins de la BD - although the Christmas aspect of this exhibition may be over, I think it continues for some time yet. In the Parc de Bercy Paris 12. Métro: Bercy or Cour Saint-Emillion. InfoTel.: 01 53 46 19 19.

Beuville - exhibition of the works of an illustrator, cartoonist, painter of the air and of nature, but basically a funny guy. Until the end of January 2001. Open Tuesday to Friday, from 12:30 to 18:30; or by appointment. At L'Atelier An. Girard, 7. Rue Campagne Première, Paris 14. Métro: Vavin or Raspail. InfoTel/Fax.: 01 43 22 01 16.

Panorama - 'des Capitales Européennes' is the full title, and this architectural exhibition takes place until the end of February in the city's dedicated museum for it; at the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland. InfoTel.:01 42 76 33 97.

Images of Bretagne - features a selection of Henry de Waroquier designs, from the rich drawing cabinets of the Musée des Années 30; on show until Sunday, 28. January. In the Espace Landowski, 28. Avenue André Morizet, Boulogne-Billancourt. Métro: Marcel-Sembat. InfoTel.:01 55 18 46 42.

Paris en 80 Quartiers - is all about Paris and Parisians. Lots of photos, lots of neat and zoomy multimedia. The '80 Quartiers' are divided into the 20 arrondissements, and each one has been featured in their 'City Halls.' The last is the 13th arrondissement, where It continues until Saturday, 6. January. All Mairies are open on weekdays and Saturday mornings. A free catalogue of 130 pages is also available in the Mairies.

L'Oeil et la Main - features more than 200 photos of Bourdelle at work and his works in progress, for the first time, from the collection of Mme Dufet-Bourdelle. Continuing until Sunday, 18. February. Except Monday, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Bourdelle, 18. Rue Antoine-Bourdelle, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse or Falguière. InfoTel.: 01 49 54 73 73.

Des Européens à Paris - is a photographic exhibition, presenting Paris as a place to visit or an European crossroads; voyagers leave traces and their histories here. Until Saturday, 3. February. At the reception area of the Hôtel de Ville, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel-de-Ville. If Rue Lobau doesn't seem right, try the Rue de Rivoli entrance.

Ephémères - means transitory because the art works are vegetal, and otherwise known as 'Land Art.' After having seen cabbages at Invalides or sets of twigs at Etoile, these creations are no longer 'en situ,' but they continue as photos at La Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

Staline Mélodie - imagine this: in January 1948 Joe Stalin and some pals are sitting around trying to think up a musical piece to represent 'real' Soviet music. With Victor Lanoux as Stalin; by David Pownall and directed by Régis Santon. Untilposter: thr bastille Saturday, 6. January. At the Théâtre Silvia Monfort, 106. Rue Brancion, Paris 15 - this is in the Parc Georges Brassens - Métro: Porte de Vanves. InfoTel.: 01 56 08 33 88.

Diner des Cons - by Francis Veber was a hit on stage and in the flicks, in French; and now it has been adapted by Barbara Bray and the Dear Conjunction Theatre Company for a production in English. This play's run is scheduled to continue until Saturday, 21. April. Showtimes are on Thursday, Friday and Saturday, at 21:00. At the Sudden Théâtre - instead of the Petit Hébertot - at 14. bis, Rue Sainte-Isaure, Paris 18. Métro: Jules-Joffrin. InfoTel.: 01 44 70 06 69

Pour l'Humour d'Oscar Wilde - "Le mariage est aussi nocif que les cigarettes et tellement plus cher." From Wednesday to Sunday, at the Akteon Théâtre, 11. Rue du Général Blaise, Paris 11. Métro: Saint-Amboise. InfoTel.: 01 43 38 74 62.

La Chute - is by Albert Camus, and is his last big piece. Adapted by Catherine Camus and François Chaumette, directed by Michel Miramont; it features Jean Lespert. From Tuesday to Saturday, at 20:00. At the Lucenaire, 53. Rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs. InfoTel.: 01 45 44 57 34.

Le Procès - is by Franz Kafka, and is about the banker Joesph K. who gets arrested without any reason. Adapted and directed by Emile Salimov; it features Bernard Gabnay. In the Théâtre Rouge, from Tuesday to Saturday, at 20:00. Also at the Lucenaire, 53. Rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs. InfoTel.: 01 45 44 57 34.

Les Affinités Electives - is by Goethe, and is about Charlotte and Edouard who have invited some friends in to look at their weird stuff. Adapted by René Fix and directed by Claudia Morin. From Tuesday to Saturday, until Saturday, 6. January; at 18:30. Also at the Lucenaire, 53. Rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs. InfoTel.: 01 45 44 57 34.

Gros Chagrins - is by G. Courteline, and seems to be subtitled 'La Peur des Coups' and/or 'La Paix Chez Toi.' Presented by Les Tréteaux Bleus. Every Friday at 21:00 and on Saturdays and Sundays at 17:00. At Le Tambour Royal, 94. Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, Paris 11. Métro: Goncourt or Belleville. InfoTel.: 01 48 06 72 34.

Il Signor di Balzac - is an exhibition first shown in Rome last June. Balzac visited Italy five times between 1836 and 1846, for some Balzacian adventures which included the Comtessa Clara Maffei, and later, for his novel 'Massimilla Doni.' In Naples there was Madame Hanska... leading to Ubuzac and Balzubu. Vachement Ubuque! Until Sunday, 7. January; open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Maison de Balzac, 57. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: Passy. Info. Tel.: 01 55 74 41 80.

1940 - or, 'Année de Tous les Destins,' retraces the WWII campaign of May-June 1940 in France which was fairly clear for one side - drive around the Maginot Line instead of through it - but extremely confusing for the defenders who suffered a total collapse. There are few combat photos in this exhibition, but the beginning of the come-back is presented. This exhibition continues until Saturday, 21. July 2001. At the Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris - Musée Jean Moulin, Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Paris 15. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. InfoTel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

De Gaulle - August 1944 - The occasion for the new installation of an exhibition devoted to Général Charles De Gaulle and France-Libré is the 60th anniversary of the General's famous 'appeal' to the occupied French; broadcast from BBC transmitters on 18. June 1940. Open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de l'Armée, north entrance of the Hôtel des Invalides, 129. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Invalides, Latour-Maubourg or Varenne. InfoTel.: 01 44 42 37 72.

Ile-de-France - is not an island, but the region surrounding Paris - sort of like an 'island' in France. Find out more about its attractions for kids at the Espace Tourisme d'Ile-de-France, in the Carrousel du Louvre under the Pyramid. InfoTel.: 08 03 81 80 00.

The Cinémathèque Française - has a non-stop program of rare film projections. The film museum operates in two locations: at the Palais de Chaillot, garden entry; and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Auto-InfoTel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

This section features 'Befores,' 'Dayclubbing,' 'Nightclubbing' and 'Afters' for those with a lot of audible tolerance.

Batofar - Nova says 'most hyped;' Nova also says with Nova DJ's. Special effects, especially on weekends, plus weekdays. Nothing on Mondays. At the Batofar, from 21:00. Entry, drink; 30 francs. Quai François Mauriac, Paris 13. Métro: Quai de la Gare. InfoTel.: 01 56 29 10 00.

Guingette Pirate - Next door on the Seine to the Batofar, so it's an either-or. On theposter: musee gustave moreau Quai François Mauriac, Paris 13. Métro: Quai de la Gare. InfoTel.: 01 56 29 10 20.

Flèche d'Or - almost every night, loud surprises - sometimes on the old rails underneath. Closed Monday and Tuesday. 102, bis. Rue de Bagnolet, Paris 20. Métro: none close by. InfoTel.: 01 43 72 41 44.

Glaz'Art - includes lots of 'Happy Hours,' which are between 21:00 and 22:00. 'Afters' continue at the Batofar. All of it at Glaz'Art, 7 to 15. Avenue de la Porte de la Villette, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 40 36 55 65.

La Java - mainly Cuban music, helped out at times with heavy-duty African drums. Dance lessons too. Plus dancers. Go crazy! 105. Rue du Faubourg du Temple, Paris 10. Métro: Goncourt or Belleville. InfoTel.: 01 42 02 20 52.

Café de la Danse - doors open at 19:30. The Café de la Danse, 5. Passage Louis Philippe, just off the Rue de Lappe. Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 47 00 57 59.

Cithéa - is more than its two zincs; jazz of all shapes, dancing. Cithéa isn't photogenic, but it's on Oberkampf too, at 114. Rue Oberkampf, Paris 11. Métro: Saint-Maur or Ménilmontant. InfoTel.: 01 40 21 70 95.

La Casa 128 - Cuban music, dancing, dining, more dancing; Thursday to Saturday; from 21:00 to 04:00. At 128. Rue Lafayette, Paris 10. Métro: Gare du Nord. InfoTel.: 01 48 01 05 71.

Le Gibus - Ex-hard techno, now 'house.' Is it softer? Sofas maybe? Open every night. At 18. Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, Paris 11. Métro: République. InfoTel.: 01 47 00 78 88. Same address below is not a mistake.

La Favela Chic - is the Parisian version of a Brazilian slum with year-round carnival music. Closed Sunday evenings. Check out Favela Chic, 18. Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, Paris 11. Métro: République. InfoTel.: 01 40 21 38 14.

Le Crocodile - More than 200 cocktails, since 1966. No famous people and accepts cash. At 6. Rue Royer-Collard, Paris 5. Métro: RER Luxembourg. InfoTel.: 01 43 54 32 37.

Cyclotourists - should also check out the 'The Best Biking Guide to Paris And Day Trips Outside Paris,' which are by Rose Burke who has personally tested everything for you, both downhill and uphill. Rose has done everything except pedal for you.

Les Artists Américains à Paris - 'in 1900.' From Friday, 2. February until 29. April. At the Musée Carnavalet.
Balzac Dans Ses Murs - presents a new layout at the museum, and emphasis on Balzac's working style and life in Passy. From Thursday; 15. February until 15. May, at the Maison de Balzac.
Ani, Capitale de l'An Mil - From Thursday; 15. February until 15. May, at the Pavillon des Arts.
Le Paris Semi-Marathon - takes place on Sunday, 4. March 2001.
L'Or des Amazones - From Friday, 16. March until 15. July; at the Musée Cernuschi
La Mode Enfantine - From Sunday, 1. April until 31. October; at the Musée Galliera.
Le Paris Marathon - takes place on Sunday, 8. April 2001.
Au-Dessus des Catacombs - From Wednesday, 2. May until 31. December; at the Catacombs, or course.
Le Dessin Romantique - From Thursday, 3. May until 15. July; at the Musée de la Vie Romantique.

The Notre-Dame Crypt - features archaeologic discoveries dating to Gallo-Roman times made since 1970 and is open to individuals on the first Thursday of each month at 10:30. The next date is Thursday, 4. January. In front of Notre-Dame, Paris 4. Métro: Cité. InfoTel.: 01 44 59 58 33.

Catacombs - a very long time ago Parisians were buried near where they lived, worked and worshiped. Then came another, later time in 1810, when cemeteries took up too much valuable downtown real estate, and the poor bones had to find other lodgings. Some of theposter: mk2, beaubourg bones are on permanent view at Paris' Catacombs. These are adorned with pithy signs with texts that are not only in French, but in Latin, Greek, Italian and even Swedish - so take a translator. Open Tuesday to Friday, from 14:00 to 16:00; on Saturday and Sunday, from 9:00 to 11:00 and from 14:00 to 16:00. At 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 47 63. Note: the Catacombs will be closed for 'renovations' from the end of February until some date later in 2001.

Echos de Lumière - the city commissioned Keiichi Tahara with the light job of illuminating 600 metres of the underground part of the Canal Saint-Martin, between the Rue du Chemin-Vert and Oberkampf. The 'echoes' are built into the canal's waters and the light projections will be set off by the passing boats you ride. To view this, embark at the Port de l'Arsenal with Canauxrama or Paris Canal. Info. Tel.: 01 42 76 67 00.

Musée de la Poupée - Paris' doll museum is featuring the dolls from the 'Kingdom of the Apes,' which include 200 monkeys as toys, souvenirs and pieces of art. Until 11. March. Except Monday, open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. Musée de la Poupée, Impasse Berthaud, Paris 3. In an alley opposite the métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Tickets:Théâtre On Line - presents the majority of theatre performances in Paris and the Ile-de-France, with news of new shows, criticism, and has a searchable database.

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