It's Not the Same Old Thing

photo: visitors at catacombs

The daily line of visitors to the Catacombs.

Paris' Newer-than-new Program

Paris:- Saturday, 30. December 2000:- In this edition there are a few new items. Some should have been included some time ago, and a few others are the beginning of the new millennium's avalanche.

This 'Scene' page features Paris' regular events, even if they are happening at this holiday season. The 'Scene II' page has the holiday season's 'leftovers.' There are so many of these that including them hereposter: forum images, enfants would make this page unreasonably large. If you are a circus fan, be sure to look at the other page.

Regarding my last week's - "'Yes' - there will be fireworks at the Tour Eiffel on Sunday evening on 31. December" - I have to admit I guessed wrong. Just because fireworks at the Tour Eiffel are a regular New Years Eve event - it doesn't mean that they are necessary for 2001. That the city didn't feel it needed to warn anybody, is just an indication of the current pre-election chaos at the Hôtel de Ville.

When I last had the chance, I couldn't find the city's own giant Christmas tree either. Even though I never found out where it is - or was - by now its location is moot. Most Parisians will keep their own trees up until the end of January, except for the ones who are already tired of them.

Again this week all regular items are on this page and most seasonal items are on this week's Scene II page. New Years, in its form of 'five acts,' has finally - at long last - been consigned to history - with this final update being done on Monday, 1. January 2001.



Parfum l'Expo - is supposed to introduce you to the magic world of perfume, which is a major industry in France. Continuing until Sunday, 4. March. Open daily except Monday, from 9:30 to 18:00; on Sundays and some holidays from 10:00 to 19:00. At the Palais de la Découverte, Avenue Franklin D. Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: Franklin D. Roosevelt or Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 56 43 20 21.

Le Musée Gustave Moreau - is in the old apartment of Gustave Moreau's parents and has been restored to the way it was when he turned it into a personal museum. In the 2nd and 3rd floor ateliers, Moreau's collection is as it was discovered by André Breton and the surrealists. Open Monday and Thursday from 11:00 to 17:15; and from 10:00 to 12:45 and 14:00 to 17:15, from Thursday to Sunday. Musée Gustave Moreau, 14? Rue de la Rochefoucauld, Paris 9. Métro: Trinité. InfoTel.: 01

Polyeucte - written by Pierre Corneille in 1641 and is now directed by Thierry Harcourt. It is either a tragedy or a eulogy to fanaticism. Until Sunday, 25. February; fromposter: expo parfum Tuesday to Saturday at 20:30 and at 15:30 on Sundays. At the Théâtre Mouffetard, 73. Rue Mouffetard, Paris 5. Métro: Monge. InfoTel.: 01 43 31 11 99.

Sur Le Mékong - is the result of two months' work by Jean-Jacques Dournon in Vietnam's Mekong delta, it features drawing, paintings and photographs. Until Friday, 2. February; from Monday to Friday; from 10:00 to 18:00. Hôtel d'Albret, 31. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 67 00.

Poster Festival of the Year 2000 - Paris jumped the gun by having its 'Millennium' festival a year early, but some of the posters for it are exceptional. See - and perhaps buy - these now and until the end of March. At the Galerie Grand Monde, in the Cour Damoye, entry via 12. Place de la Bastille, Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 48 05 51 30. The Cour Damoye has several other galleries and shops, so a visit to all of it will be worth your while.

This item closes the 'opening' events for this week. You will find some other new items below. The images are of posters that are around Paris, but some are for events - not necessarily listed in the text.

René Margotton - Works - returning to the Parisian scene, this student of Fernand Léger shows his symbolic and lyric works from Wednesday, 10. January until Wednesday, 31. January. Open from Tuesday to Friday, from 14:00 to 19:30; on Saturday from 11:00 to 19:30. At the new Galerie Orsel, 47 bis. Rue Orsel, Paris 18. Métro: Anvers. InfoTel.: 01 42 29 13 00.

The Paris Dog Show - is not about the 15 tons deposited by dogs daily on Paris streets, but is a salon for fancy dogs - some 5000 of them, divided by 300 breeds. From Friday, 12. January until Sunday, 14. January. In the Parc Floral at the Esplanade du Château de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes. Entry: 50 francs for adults; children under 12, free.

Baldini at the Sénat - in a short exhibition, the French Sénat has invited the world-famous sculptor Jean-Pierre Baldini to show his bronzes - some of them huge - from Monday, 15. January until Sunday, 28. January. On weekdays from 10:30 to 19:00 and on weekends from 14:00 to 19:00. At the Hôtel de Questure, 64. Boulevard Saint-Michel, Paris 5. Métro: RER Luxembourg. For an appointment, phone: 06 63 01 57 26.

Angoulême 2001 - for its 28th edition, this international comics festival has a lady cartoonist as its president for the first time; Florence Cestac. From Thursday, 25. January until Sunday, 28. January; from 10:00 to 19:00. Saturday until 21:00. The easiest way to get to Angoulême is via the TGV 'Atlantique' that departs from Montparnasse; the trip takes two hours and 20 minutes. By the autoroute A10, it is 445 kilometres. The SNCF has a general 25 percent and special 50 percent reduction offers for festival visitors. Tickets for the festival, InfoTel.: 08 20 07 20 20. 'Passport' for three days, 150 francs. Hotel accommodations, InfoTel.: 05 45 69 48 65; from outside France, 33 5 45 69 48 65.

Rétromobile 2001 - without details, but here because so many readers are old car fans - the coming edition of Rétromobile takes place in Paris from Friday to Sunday, 9. to 18. February 2001.

Semi-Marathon de Paris - the 9th edition of this little stroll through Paris' 13th and 12th arrondissements and the Bois de Vincennes is scheduled for Sunday, 4. March 2001. Sign-up deadline is 16. February.

L'Or des Amazones - is an exhibition of the prestigious works by nomads from the steppes of Asia; from 600 BC to 400 AD. All the pieces are on loan from southern Russian museums andposter: festival posters, grande monde include the entire collection from the tomb of the Princess of Kobiakovo. Coming to the Musée Cernuschi on Friday, 16. March; continuing until 15. July.. Musée Cernuschi, 7. Avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers. InfoTel.: 01 45 63 50 75.

International Marathon de Paris - is the 25th edition and it takes place in Paris about a month later, on Sunday, 8. April 2001. This 'big one' takes routes into both the Bois de Boulogne and the Bois de Vincennes, but mainly runs through Paris' centre on the right bank, with a dip into the 16th arrondissement. Sign-up deadline is 18. March.

Les Andalousies - is sub-headed 'from Damascus to Cordoba,' and concerns the concentration of culture founded by the Umayyad dynasty, begun in Damascus and transferred to Andalusia in 756 AD. Until Sunday, 15. April; daily except Mondays; from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Institut du Monde Arabe, 1. Rue des Fosses-Saint-Bernard, Paris 5. Métro: Cardinal Lemoine. InfoTel.: 01 40 51 38 38.

Paris Pour Escale - or, 'Passing Through,' features mostly non-western modern artists who are migrating through the art scene, from there to here and beyond. Until Sunday, 11. February; except Monday, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

L'Ecole de Paris 1901-1929 - is a big expo devoted to foreign artists who arrived in Paris before 1914, and photographers who showed up in the '20's - until it was mostly over in 1930. Based on the twin peaks of Montmartre and Montparnasse, these 'visitors' had a tremendous influence on French art. Until Sunday, 11. March; except Monday, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

La Gloire des Empereurs - China's last big exhibition in Paris was in 1973; this major one presents the considerable finds since then; from the Bronze Age to the Liao epoque. Also featured are the photographs of Roland Michaud. This exhibition continues until Sunday, 28. January; from Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 17:40; on Thursdays until 20:00. At the Petit Palais. Musée des Beaux-Arts, Avenue Winston Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

Manet, les Natures Mortes - is French for 'still life' so it is not as sinister as you may have thought. Impressionistic apples and pears by the square metre, but a major show all the same. Until Sunday, 7. January; open daily except Monday; from 10:00 to 18:00, to 21:45 on Thursdays, and from 9:00 to 18:00 on Sundays. Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER 'C' Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Méditerranée - 'from Courbet to Matisse,' is a visual 'first take' to the shock of light that greeted a group of 39 painters between 1850 and 1920 when theyposter: thr mouffetard, polyeucte discovered the Mediterranean sun and sky. An explosion of discovery, from the Gulf of Genoa to Catalonia. "Quel soleil ici!" Monnet wrote to Rodin in 1888. Until Monday, 15. January 2001; except Tuesday, daily from 10:00 to 20:00; on Wednesdays from 10:00 to 22:00. Reservations required before 13:00; none afterwards. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général-Eisenhower, Square Jean-Perrin, Paris 8. Métro: Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 10.

Fra Angelico to Bonnard - features 106 major paintings from the extraordinary Rau Collection - by El Greco, Tiepolo, Millet, Fragonard, Pissarro, Degas, Cézanne, Monet, Renoir, to name a few. Until Thursday, 4. January 2001. Daily from 11:00 to 19:00; on Thursdays until 22:00. In the French Sénat's Musée du Luxembourg, 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Suplice, Odéon or Mabillon. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 25 95.

Les Crimes de Paris - shows off Paris' crime scenes, according to thrillers dating from Louis' time to WWI. Until 31. March. From Tuesday to Friday, from 14:00 to 18:00; and on Saturday from 10:00 to 17:00. At the Bibliothèque de Littérature Policière - aka BILIPO; 48-50. Rue du Cardinal-Lemoine, Paris 5. Métro: Cardinal-Lemoine. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 93 00.

Arman - his 'Vingt Stations de l'Objet' have been chosen by the sculptor to represent the past 20 centuries, from Year One up to the invention of photography. This exhibition continues until Wednesday, 21. March. Except Mondays, open from 11:00 to 19:00. At the Couvent des Cordeliers, 15. Rue de l'Ecole de Médécine, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon. InfoTel.: 06 66 84 67 25.

Friedl Dicker-Brandies - an exhibition of pastels, designs and engravings by this artist, known for works associated with Bauhaus, and the camp at Terezin. Except Saturday, daily from 11:00 to 18:00 and 10:00 to 18:00 on Sundays until Monday, 5. March. At the Musée d'Art et d'Historie du Judaisme, Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 86 48.

Morellet - features a large body of work, from geometric paintings done in 1952, up to contemporary executions. Until Sunday, 29. January; except Mondays, from 12:00 to 19:00; from 12:00 to 21:30 on Tuesdays, and from 10:00 to 19:00 on weekends. At the Galerie Nationale du Jeu du Paume, in the Tuleries at the Place de la Concorde, Paris 1. Métro: Concorde. InfoTel.: 01 47 03 12 50.

Le Dessin Pour Passion - some artists stayed in Paris during the war and some were 'invited' to Germany, and Paul Belmondo was one of these. The time seems right for the 'rediscovery' of this sculptor's designs, with an exhibition of 60 of them. Continues until Wednesday, 21. February. Except Monday, open daily from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Petit Palais, Musée des Beaux-Arts, Avenue Winston-Churchill, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 42 65 12 73.

Le Coton et la Mode - ordinary cotton may form most t-shirts, but this material has a long and rich history that is not particularly well-known. Until Sunday, 11. March; daily except Monday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Galliera, 10. Avenue Pierre-1er-de-Serbie, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 47 20 85 23..

Génies Timbrés - is an exhibition of postage stamps featuring lesser-known inventors and other egg-heads who have brought us things like the sewing machine and the tube radio. Until Saturday, 24. February; open from Monday to Saturday, from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de la Poste, 34. Boulevard de Vaugirard, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse.

Argenterie d'Usage - 'Argenterie de Prestige' is an exhibition of the best French silverwork from the 18th and 19th centuries, assembled from the collections of the city's Petit Palais and the Musée des Beaux-Arts. Until Sunday, 25. February 2001; from Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Cognacq-Jay, 8. Rue Elzévir, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 40 27 07 21.

5th Salon d'Art - of 'Histoires Naturelles,' features works of artists who have lent their talents to nature. The exhibit's poster photo is by Sarah Moon, for example. Except Tuesday, open from 10:00 to 17:00; until Sunday, 14. January. Free entry; part of the catalogue's price goes to replacing plants damaged by last December's storm. At the Galerie de Botanique, Jardin des Plantes, Museum d'Histoire Naturelle, 18. Rue Buffon, Paris 5. Métro: Place Monge. InfoTel.: 01 40 79 37 69.

L'Arche Ethiopienne - Exhibition of works from the 14th to 18th centuries, from Ethiopian and European collections, featuring African Christianity which dates to the 4th century. Until Sunday, 7. January. At the Terrace Lautréamont, Porte Rambuteau, Les Halles, Paris 1. Métro: Les Halles. InfoTel.: 01 42 33 82 50.

Archéo 2000 - launches the opening of the restored Orangerie, which is Paris' only 17th century example - in the Hôtel Le Peletier de Saint-Fargeau. On show - a collection of the archeological finds from the recent Bercy digs; featuring in whole or parts, ten 4-6000 year-old canoes. These have become part of the Musée Carnavalet - Historie de Paris' permanent collection. Open Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin-Vert. InfoTel.: 01 44 59 58 5.


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