Full House

photo: pont au change, conciergerie

The 'new' Pont au Change with the with the 'clock tower'
and the Conceirgerie behind it.

With Coming Hungarian Summer

Paris:- Saturday, 28. April 2001:- With this issue most of the major events of this spring's season are in place, or are about to begin very soon. Coming in June there will be a bit of a 'Hungarian season' and a couple of photography exhibitions.

These are only the larger events. A great variety of other exhibitions are on or will be coming to institutions like the Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris' own libraries, to theatres and to the Opéra. Other shows will feature marionettes and new oddities such as the Salon du Roller. Some of these will be included here, but not all.

Strikes by personnel are currently causing the operation of national museums to be somewhat uncertain. Strike votes are being held on a daily basis at each museum, so it is impossible to know whether they will be open or closed, or open 'free' of entry charge.

This conflict only applies to national museums such as the Louvre, Orsay, Guimet, and monuments like the Arc de Triomphe, and all of the others operated by the state. Paris' own city museums are not affected, except for their weekly closing day of Monday.



Dessins Romantiques Français - rarely seen works from private collections. This major show begins on Thursday, 3. May and continues until Sunday, 15. July; from 10:00 to 18:00 daily exceptposter: dessins romatiques, mus vie romantique Mondays. At the Musée de la Vie Romantique - Hôtel Scheffer- Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Foire de Paris - Paris' really big home show features the latest microwaves and the 'inventors' show their latest magic oyster openers, plus the usual regional food stands show up for hungry Parisians. From Friday, 27. April until Tuesday, 8. May. At Paris Expo. Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. InfoTel.: 01 49 09 60 00.

2nd Fête des Jazz - kicks off on Friday, 27. April and drums along until Tuesday, 8. May. Hours are from 13:00 to 20:00 except for beginning at 13:30 on 2 and 3. May; and going on until 22:30 on Friday, 4. May. At Paris Expo. Métro: Porte de Versailles. InfoTel.: 01 49 09 60 00.

Tuesday, 8. May - is officially known as 'Victoire 1945,' At 11:30 there will be a ceremony at the Arc de Triomphe, with the Président of the République, Jacques Chirac presiding. Métro: Argentine, George V or Ternes. This will be followed by another concert at the Madeleine, also at 15:30. Paris 8. Métro: Concorde or Madeleine

Portraits d'Ecrivains - is an exhibition of 666 photos by Sophie Bassouls, featuring famous writers and some not so famous, and some no longer with us. Until Friday, 15. June,from Tuesday to Saturday; from 10:00 to 18:00 and on Sundays from 12:00 to 19:00. Closed 8. and 24. May. At the Bibliothèque Historique, 22. Rue Mahler, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 44 59 29 60.

Carlos Freire - or, 'Tout Doit Disparaître,' which includes about 100 photos of his meetings with famous people like Orson Wells or Marguerite Yourcenar. Until Saturday, 30. June. At the Maison de l'Amérique Latine, 217. Boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino. InfoTel.: 04 49 54 75 35.

Buenos Aires Tango I - begins a month of tango in Paris with a condensed version of the festival held in Argentina in early March. From Friday, 4. May to Sunday, 6. May, featuring many Argentinean tango stars. At the Cité de la Musique, 221. Avenue Jean-Jaurés, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 44 84 45 45 & ResaTel.: 01 44 84 44 84.

Buenos Aires Tango II - after the opening steps above, the festival gets into the swing of things with six complete programs, beginning on Tuesday, 9. May and continuing until Sunday, 27. May. Various times, all at the Théâtre National du Chaillot, 1. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro. InfoTel.: 01 53 65 30 00 & ResaTel.: 01 53 65 30 00.

Médée Furieuse - is a 'major exhibition' that continues until Monday, 30. July; daily except Tuesdays from 9:30 to 17:00. At the Musée Delacroix, 6. Rue de Furstenberg, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés or Mabillon. InfoTel.: 01 44 41 85 50.

Les Contes d'Hoffman - by Jacques Offenbach, with the book for this performance by Jules Barbier after his own work with Michel Carré. Featuring James Morris or Alan Held. Four dates left in May. At the Opéra Bastille, Place de la Bastille, Paris 12. Métro: Bastille. Toll ResaTel.: 08 36 69 78 68. Check the Web site for both the Palais Garnier and Bastille for opera events as well as current ballet productions.

This item closes the 'opening' events for this week. This column's images are of posters that are around Paris this week, but some are for events - not necessarily listed in the text.

Le 'Prince Noir' - this was the nickname of crime writer Andre Héléna, who has remained largely unknown since his death in 1972 despite being an extraordinary writer. This exhibition includes his original works, posters and photos. Starting Friday, 11. May and continuing until 30. August. From Monday to Friday; from 14:00 to 18:00, and on Saturday from 10:00 to 17:00. At the BILIPO, 48-50. Rue du Cardinal-Lemoine, Paris 5. Métro: Cardinal-Lemoine. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 93 00.

Faust - by Charles Gounod, with the book for this performance by Jules Barbier and Michel Carré. Starting on Friday, 11. May, with dates continuing into June. At the Opéra Bastille, Place de la Bastille, Paris 12. Métro: Bastille. Toll ResaTel.: 08 36 69 78 68. Check the Web site for both the Palais Garnier and Bastille for opera events as well as current ballet productions.

Catone In Utica - by Antonio Vivaldi, in three acts with subtitles in French. Dates for this begins on Friday, 25. May and continue into June. At the Opéra Comique, Place Boïeldieu, Paris 2. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot. InfoTel.: 08 25 00 00 58

Salon du Roller - the roller folk come inside to show off their stuff to the folks wearing simple shoes. From Friday, 18. May to Sunday, 20. May; from 10:00 to 20:00; until 22:00 on Saturday. At the Espace Champeret, Porte de Champeret, Paris 17. Métro: Porte de Champeret. InfoTel.: 01 40 38 07 08.

Paris Jazz Festival - is merely 22 free concerts, featuring names - Lisa Ekdahl, Salif Keita, Russell Malone, Didier Lockwood, Tania Maria, Buena Vista Social Club, Dee Dee Bridgewater, Chick Corea, Dave Brubeck - to name but a few. From Saturday, 19. May until 29. May. Concerts on weekends at 16:30. At the Parc Floral de Paris, Route de la Pyramide, in the Bois de Vincennes. Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes. InfoTel.: 01 55 94 20 20.

Strebelle à Paris - from the Opéra and along the Rue de la Paix, and filling the Place Vendôme, find the monumental - really huge! - sculptures ofposter: tango Olivier Strebelle, beginning on Tuesday, 15 May and on show until Friday, 15. July. Paris 1 and 2. Métro: Opéra or Madeleine. Free entry of course - open non-stop.

La Mode et l'Enfant - 'mode' did exist for kids, for at least three centuries before our own, and it is on display, including costumes for royal kids. From Wednesday, 16. May until 18. November; from 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays. At the Musée de la Mode - Galleria, 10. Avenue Pierre-1st-de-Serbie, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 56 52 88 00.

Watches & Sport - probably on account of Paris' candidacy for hosting the summer Olympics in 2008, timekeeping becomes important. This expo features 20 manufacturers' latest luxo timepieces, from Friday, 18. May until Sunday, 20. May. In the Hotel Dassault, 7. Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées, Paris 8. Métro: Franklin Roosevelt. InfoTel.: 01 53 76 10 13.

Stand-Up Comics - for coming comics, see the Laughing Matters Web site. At the Hôtel du Nord, 102. Quai de Jemmapes, Paris 10. Closest métro: probably is Gare de l'Est. InfoTel.: 01 53 19 98 88.

Fête de la Musique - has its 20th edition this year for France's one-day celebration of music - not just in Paris but everywhere and much of it free. For this year's edition, no less than 20 posters have been made for it rather than the usual one. On Thursday, 21. June.
Trésors du Château de Budapest - is a provisional title for a major exhibition included in Paris' 'Hungarian Season,' which will run from mid-June ntil mid-September at the Musée Carnavalet.
Le Dame de la Mer - will feature photographs by Anita Conti - the Lady of the Oceans - from Friday, 15. une until the end of September, at the Pavillon des Arts.
Des Regards Persans - comes with the subtitle 'Iran, a Photographic Rvolution,' and it will be on show at the Espace Electra from Wednesday, 20. June until the end of August.
Hungarian Photography - will also be featured during Paris' Hungarian season in the summer. An exhibition of rare photo, taken at the beginning of the 20th century. To be at the Musée de la Vie Romantique, from late July until the end of October.
Au-Dessus des Catacombs - from the reopening in June, until 31. December; at the Catacombs, of course. Visitors who try to visit the Catacombs can now also wonder where the 'Lion de Belfort' has gone. It was plucked away from the Place Denfert-Rochereau for some restoration work and should be back in place around the end of July.

Springtime for Italy - Italian art could stand up to the test of modernism, from 1880 to 1910. In addition to this major exhibition also see Carlo Bugatti and Gabriele d'Annunzio. Until Sunday, 15. July. Open from 10:00 to 18:00; until 21:45 on Thursdays. On Sundays, openingposter: expo italies, mus d'orsay at 9:00; and at 9:00 beginning on Thursday, 21. June. Musée d'Orsay, Quai de Anatole France, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Les Primitifs Italiens - 50 newly restored rare works, by Giotto, Boticelli and Monaco; and four other major schools of Italian painting are represented in this important exhibition. Prolonged until Sunday, 27. May; from 10:00 to 18:00 daily. At the Musée Andre-Jacquemart, 158. Boulevard Haussmann, Paris 8. Métro: Miromesnil. InfoTel.: 01 42 89 04 91.

Dessin à Bologne - one hundred year's worth, from 1490 to 1580, from the Renaissance to the 'Réforme Tridentine,' otherwise known as the Council of Trent. Until Monday, 2. July; from 9:00 to 17:45 and until 21:45 on Wednesdays. Musée du Louvre, Pyramid, Cour Napoléon, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 40 20 51 51.

Paysages d'Italie - is an exhibition of fresh-air painters in Italy from 1780 to 1830, when 'grand tours' were popular for artists and other forerunners of tourists. Until Monday, 9. July. Except Tuesdays, usually from 10:00 to 20:00. At the Grand Palais, Clemanceau entry. Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Signac 1865 - 1935 - is an exhibition of this significant artist's works, mounted by the Musée d'Orsay and staged at the Grand Palais. According to a TV-report - and now 'Ed' too - Paul Signac was the Riviera's 'Impressionist' - in a part of France he knew and painted better than his northern brothers. Until Monday, 28. May - by reservation from 10:00 to 13:00; otherwise none necessary. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général-Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 10.

Les Aquarelles de Signac - feature 133 works by Paul Signac, from the Dyke Collection at the Museum of Arkansas. The above show contains watercolors too - if these are as good, don't miss this. Until Tuesday, 15. May; from 11:00 to 17:00, except Mondays. Musée Marmottan, 2. Rue Louis-Boilly, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette. InfoTel.: 01 42 24 07 02.

Les Années Pop - painting, film, design, architecture, music, shows - the '50's and '60's in all their pastel and plastic glory. Until Monday, 16. June; daily from 11:00 to 21:00, except Tuesdays. At the Centre Georges Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Picasso Erotique - features about 40 paintings and 250 drawings and engravings treating one subject - one of Picasso's favorites - from 1900 up until the '60's. Some Metropole readers are not too happy with this show, for different reasons. Also see Picasso and the Théâtre Until Sunday, 20. May; from 12:00 to 19:00 and 12:30 to 21:30 on Tuesdays and Thursdays; closed Mondays. At the Jeu de Paume, 1. Place de la Concorde, Paris 1 - within the Tuileries. Métro: Concorde. Info. Tel.: 01 47 03 12 50.

OEdipe Roi - is an exhibition of Picasso's work done for the theatre, in collaboration with Pierre Blanchar, featuring designs, model scenes, photos and sounds. Until Monday, 4. June; from 9:30 to 18:00 except on Mondays. At the Musée Picasso, 5. Rue de Thorigny, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 42 71 25 21.

Rodin En 1900 - this exhibition recreates as nearly as possible one shown in 1900, featuring 168 sculptures, drawings and photographs that were shown at the Pavillon de l'Alma. Until Thursday, 10. May; from 11:00 to 18:00; except Mondays. At the Musée du Luxembourg, 19. Rue de Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon r Saint-Suplice. Info. Tel.: 01 42 34 25 95.

Museum Note - the Musée d'Orsay is doing a bit of interior remodelling this year, and has moved its entry for visitors to the side facing the Seine, on the Quai Anatole France. The entrance for groups is on the opposite, Rue de Lille side.

Les Bronzes d'Ousmane Sow - this African artist last took over the Pont des Arts and was 'held-over' for a long time. Now Ousmane Sow returns with his first bronzes, to be on show until Saturday, 30. June. Exhibition hours are unknown, but free entry at the Musée Dapper, 35. Rue Paul-Valéry, Paris 16. Métro: Victor Hugo. InfoTel.: 01 45 00 01 50.

Les Gemmes de Louis XIV - 'gemmes' means a special kind of vase, made of hard stone - rare stone, this is. This exhibition reunites Louis XIV's collection, which includes rare pieces from antiquity up to the 17th century. Until Tuesday, 23. July; from 9:00 to 18:00 and until 21:45 on Wednesdays. Closed Tuesdays. Musée du Louvre, Pyramide entry, Cour Napoléon, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 40 20 51 51.

Jouer la Lumière! - features threads, textiles, lace - all of which changes with light and one's viewpoint. Except Mondays, from 11:00 to 18:00; on Wednesdays until 21:00. Until 31. December. At the Musée de la Mode, 107. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 44 55 57 50.

Niele Toroni - histories of painting, on paper and canvas, wood and newspapers. Except Mondays, daily from 10:00 to 17:30. Until 16. September; at the Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue du Président-Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01

Paris et Charles V - the 'Wise,' son of Jean le Bon, crowned in 1364. Builder and arts patron, Charles Vposter: le monte plats, thr dechargeurs transformed the Louvre from a fortress into a palace. Until Saturday, 26. May; at the Bibliothèque Forney - and continuing from Wednesday, 6. June to Friday, 6. July at the Mairie of the 6th. Rue Bonapartre, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Suplice.

Pablo Gargallo - "A Catalan from Catalonia and the Catalan of the Ecole de Paris," also known as 'the Catalan sculptor.' Until Sunday, 10. June; from 11:00 to 17:30; except Mondays. At the Hôtel de la Monnaie, 11. Quai de Conti, Paris 6. Métro: Pont Neuf or Odéon. InfoTel.: 01 40 46 58 40.

Desnos, Foujita, Youki - surrealist love in Montparnasse was - surrealistic! Until Sunday, 29. July; from Wednesday to Sunday; from 13:00 to 19:00. Musée - Chemin du Montparnasse, 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

Echos du Paradis - or, 'Jardins Persans et Moghols,' is a major exhibition in one of Paris' fancier gardens, the Parc de Bagatelle. This exhibition continues until Sunday, 1. July and is a two-part show. There will be photos of delicious Persian gardens by Persians, and there will be exceptional pieces from these gardens. Closed on Tuesdays. Bagatelle, Route de Neuilly, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métro: Pont de Neuilly, or bus 43. Park entry: 10 francs.

Diamants - The show for blonds - features 400 of the world's best - or biggest? - sparklers. Feared to be just some old crystals, the show required a fleet of Brinks' trucks to get it into place. This continues until Sunday, 15. July; daily from 9:00 to midnight except on Tuesday, when closing time is 20:00. At the Museum National d'Historie Naturelle, 57. Rue Cuvier, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu. InfoTel.: 01 40 79 30 00.

Gérard Garouste - takes themes from the Divine Comedy or Don Quixote, to carry on a tradition of painting born in the middle ages. Until Monday, 28. May. At the Musée d'Art et Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. Info. Tel.: 01 53 01 86 53.

100 Years of the Olympics - is otherwise known as 'Les Jeux Font Leur Cinéma,' and is currently playing daily except Sundays and holidays, until Saturday, 2. June. The reason? Paris has applied to host the Olympics in 2008. In the reception space at the Hôtel de Ville, 29. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville.

L'Or des Amazones - is an exhibition of the prestigious works by nomads from the steppes of Asia; from 600 BC to 400 AD. All the pieces are on loan from southern Russian museums and include the entire collection from the tomb of the Princess of Kobiakovo. Until Sunday, 15. July. Open from 10:00 to 17:40 daily except Mondays. Musée Cernuschi, 7. Avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers. InfoTel.: 01 45 63 50 75.

"Mille Sabords!" - features Tintin, Haddock, the dog and the other characters from the ever-lasting comic book series by Hergé. Until Sunday, 15. July; from 10:00 to 17:45, except Tuesdays. It's the Captain Haddock connection that put this into the Musée de la Marine, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro. InfoTel.: 01 53 65 69 53.

From One Century To Another - 'D'un Siécle à l'Autre, le Compagnonnage du Devoir' shows how the descendants of the cathedral builders carry on their building and craft traditions, in this show organized by the Compagnons de Devoir. Until Thursday, 31. May; from 10:00 to 19:00. At the Compagnons de Devoir, 1. Place Saint-Gervais, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. Info. Tel.: 01 42 74 43 97.

volt(a) - from the spark to the battery, and about Alessandro Volta - is an electrifying exhibition, continuing until Sunday, 17. June. At the Musée des Arts et Métiers, 60. Rue Réaumur, Paris 3. Métro: Arts et Métiers. Open daily except Mondays and holidays; from 10:00 to 18:00; on Thursdays until 21:30.

Le Musée Gustave Moreau - is in the old apartment of Gustave Moreau's parents and has been restored to the way it was whenposter: expo medee furieuse, mus delacroix he turned it into a personal museum. In the 2nd and 3rd floor ateliers, Moreau's collection on view is as it was discovered by André Breton and the surrealists. Open Monday and Thursday from 11:00 to 17:15; and from 10:00 to 12:45 and 14:00 to 17:15, from Thursday to Sunday. Musée Gustave Moreau, 14. Rue de la Rochefoucauld, Paris 9. Métro: Trinité.

Archéo 2000 - on show - a collection of the archeological finds from the recent Bercy digs; featuring in whole or parts, ten 4-6000 year-old canoes. These have become part of the Musée Carnavalet - Historie de Paris' permanent collection. Open Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. In the Orangerie, in the Hôtel Le Peletier de Saint-Fargeau, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin-Vert. InfoTel.: 01 44 59 58 58.

Le Jardin Médiéval - is what has been done with the space between the Cluny and the Boulevard Saint-Germain, at the corner of the Boulevard Saint-Michel. More exactly, it is sort of the museum's north porch. Métro: Cluny. Sort of featured in a recent issue.

Les Grands Eaux Musicales - is the Château de Versailles' annual H2O and musical fountain show. Every Sunday, at the 'Grande Perspective' from 11:00 to 12:00; and at 15:30 at all of the Bassins and Bosquets, with the finale at the 'Bassin de Neptune' around 17:20. Also on Saturdays on the following dates - the 8. and 24. May, and from 7. July to 29. September including the 15. August. At the Parc du Château de Versailles. Take a train from the Gare Montparnasse or Saint-Lazare, or the RER 'C.' InfoTel.: 01 30 83 78 88.


Sex Obsessions - of Robert 'Mr. Natural' Crumb and James Chedburn, features designs - 'lines on paper' - comic pages and mobile sculptures. Dimitri didn't tell me there were mobiles too. Until 11. October, daily from 10:00 to 02:00 - the late show - at the Musée de l'Erotisme, 72. Boulevard de Clichy, Paris 18. Métro: Blanche. InfoTel.: 01 42 23 24 78.

Sandorfi, Paintings - are featured in an exhibition, beginning on Friday 27. April and continuing until Tuesday, 29. May; from Tuesday to Saturday; from 10:00 to 19:00 and on Monday from 14:00 to 19:00. At the Galerie de l'Europe, 55. Rue de Seine, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon or Mabillon.

In parallel, as a prelude to Hungary's Cultural Year, there will be a retrospective of Sandorfi's works from 1975 to 1990, to be shown at the Institut Hongrois, 92. Rue Bonaparte, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Germain. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 06 44.

Les Enfants du Monde - 21 sculptures by Rachid Khimoune, a 'spiritual follower' of César. This means these are intricate conceptions in heavy metal, with painted highlights. If you see one you like, place a bid on it - there is one copy of each two-metre high sculpture available. See the pieces on the terrace of the Bercy park. Paris 12. Métro: Bercy. Info. Tel.: 01 42 76 67 00.

La Beauté Inconfortable - with Amazones et Androgynes is an exhibition reflecting the concerns of Léna Vandrey, who was born in Poland and spent part of her life growing up in Hamburg before moving to Paris. Working in every kind of material, she presents her fantastic vision of myth and history. Until Sunday, 6. May. Also see Michel Nedjar, until Sunday, 29. July. At the Halle Saint-Pierre, 2. Rue Ronsard, Paris 18. Métro: Anvers. InfoTel.: 01 42 58 72 89.

Architecture - if Paris interests you its architecture probably does too. See the permanent displays at the Pavillon de l'Arsenal, 21. Boulevard Morland, Paris 4. Métro: Sully-Morland. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 33 97.

Sextet - features photographers Bernard Dufour, Inez Van Lamsweerde, Vinoodh, Daniel Lasclet, Diana Michener and Guy Pellaert. Until Sunday, 10. June. At the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 26.

Ariodante - by Georg Friedrich Händel. Coming dates from mid-April and the beginning of May; at various times. Opéra Palais Garnier, Place de la Opéra, Paris 9. Métro: Opéra. InfoTel.: 08 36 69 78 68.

Mistinguette - is a musical comedy by Franklin Le Naour and Jérôme Savary, evoking the atmosphere of pre-WWI music halls in Paris, by way of the historyposter: thr, la ville mort, chatalet of the last show by 'Miss' at the Casino de Paris. A really 'big show' until Saturday, 28. April. At the Opéra Comique, Place Boïledieu, Paris 2. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot. Info. Tel.: 08 25 00 00 58.

Transferts - see Andréa Ferreol, Tom Novembre and André Falcon, directed by Jean-Claude Idée, in what may be a comedy because it's on daily except Monday at 21:00, 17:00 and 21:00 on Saturday, and at 15:30 on Sunday, at the Théâtre Montparnasse, 31. Rue de Gaité, Paris 14. Métro: Gaité or Edgar Quinet. Info. Tel.: 01 43 22 77 74.

Novecento - by Alessandro Baricco, is possibly a very big show that has escaped my attention, because it's been running since last September, and continues until the end of April. Except Sunday and Monday, daily at 21:00; and at 18:00 and 21:00 on Saturdays. At the Pepinère-Opéra, 7. Rue Louis-Le-Grand, Paris 2. Métro: Opéra. Info. Tel.: 01 42 61 44 16.

Romeo et Juliette - musical comedy by Gérard Presgurvic, after Bill Shakespeare. Version 2001. Until Saturday, 12. May; at 20:30. Extra shows at 15:00 on Saturday and 16:00 on Sunday. At the Palais des Congrés, 2. Place de la Porte Maillot, Paris 7. Métro: Porte Maillot. InfoTel.: 01 40 68 00 05.

Chantons Sur la Pluie - may be better known as 'Singing In the Rain' and in this production the songs are in English, while the music and the comedy is in French. Continuing, but not on Mondays, from Tuesday to Saturday at 20:30 and Sundays at 15:30. Théâtre de la Porte Saint-Martin, 16. Boulevard Saint-Martin, Paris 10. Métro: Strasbourg-Saint-Denis. InfoTel.: 01 42 08 00 32.

Hamlet - by Bill Shakespeare and directed by Peter Brook. With subtitles in French. Except Sunday and Monday, daily at 20:00 and 15:00 on Saturday. Théâtre des Bouffes du Nord, 37 bis. Boulevard de la Chapelle, Paris 10. Métro: La Chapelle. InfoTel.: 01 46 07 34 50.

Pompeii - is an exhibition advertised on posters, but one that I know nothing about otherwise except that it used to be about 17 km south of Naples, until 79 AD. At the Palais de la Découverte, Avenue Franklin-Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: same name. Info. Tel.: 01 56 43 20 21.

Contes de Fées - oral culture rendered into 280 pieces of text, some dating to 1695 and Perrault. On view until Sunday, 17. June, at the Richelieu branch of the Bibliothèque Nationale, 58. Rue de Richelieu, Paris 2. Métro: Bourse. InfoTel.: 01 53 79 59 59.

Balzac Dans Ses Murs - presents a new layout at the museum, and emphasis on Balzac's working style and private life in near-rural Passy. Until Sunday, 27. May; open from 10:00 to 17:00 daily except Mondays. At the Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: Passy. Info. Tel.: 01 55 74 41 80.

Brouillons d'Ecrivains - are essentially the scribbles of working writers, but when these are named Pascal, Rousseau or Hugo, then they are museum pieces. Note - see some of Balzac's above. About 200 examples on view, until Sunday, 17. June. From 10:00 to 19:00; and 12:00 to 19:00 on Sundays. Closed Mondays. At the François Mitterrand site of the Bibliothèque Nationale - Tour des Nombres, at the Quai François-Mauriac, Paris 13. Métro: Quai de la Gare or Bibliothèque François Mitterrand. InfoTel.: 01 53 79 49 49.

Ani, Capitale d'Arménie - 1700 years ago Armenia adopted Christianity as its state religion. This exhibition presents 100 objects from the capital, Ani - a mediaeval city buried in time, at the crossroads of Asia minor. About 20 manuscripts from the 11th to 14th centuries are also on view. Until Tuesday 15. May, at the Pavillon des Arts, Porte Rambuteau, Terrace Lautréamont, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet-Les Halles. Info. Tel.: 01 42 33 82 50.

1940 - or, 'Année de Tous les Destins,' retraces the WWII campaign of May-June 1940 in France. There are few combat photos in this exhibition but much else. This exhibition continues until Saturday, 21. July. At the Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris - Musée Jean Moulin, Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Paris 15. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. InfoTel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

De Gaulle - August 1944 - This show presents the 'come-back' of the above exhibition. Open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de l'Armée, north entrance of the Hôtel des Invalides, 129. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Invalides, Latour-Maubourg or Varenne. InfoTel.: 01 44 42 37 72.

La Genèse d'un Film - features the birth of a film by Youri Norstein, with the help of designer Franceska Yarbousova. Until Sunday, 15. July. Except Monday, from 11:00 to 19:00. At the Salle Saint-Jean in the Hôtel de Ville, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville.

The Cinémathèque Française - has a non-stop program of rare film projections. The director Jack Cardiff's films are on view until Sunday, 29. April. During most of April, also see films by Raoul Walsh. The film museum operates in two locations: at the Palais de Chaillot, garden entry; and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Auto-InfoTel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

This section features 'Befores,' 'Dayclubbing,' 'Nightclubbing,' 'Afters' and concert halls for those with a lot of audible tolerance for every sort of music except classical.

L'Olympia - of the living, only Elvis hasn't played here. Ex-cinema, ex-roller coaster. 28. Boulevard des Capucines, Paris 9. Métro: Madeleine. InfoTel.: 01 55 27 10 00.

Hôtel du Nord - fairly new for acoustic rock; also has a theatre somewhere on the premises. 102. Quai de Jemmapes, Paris 10. Closest métro: probably is Gare de l'Est. InfoTel.: 01 40 40 78 78.

Le New Morning - known for jazz, also has World Music. No bad views. 7-9. Rue desposter: gilles jobin, thr aux abbesses Petites-Ecuries, Paris 10. Métro: Château d'Eau. InfoTel.: 01 45 23 51 41.

Le Bataclan - first opened in 1864 and still one of the best, for big acts. 50. Boulevard Voltaire, Paris 11. Métro: Oberkampf or Filles du Calvaire. InfoTel.: 01 43 14 35 35.

Le Scène - is new on the scene and appreciated even if it looks like an abandoned garage outside. At 2 Bis, Rue des Taillandiers, Paris 11. Métro: Ledru Rollin. InfoTel.: 01 48 06 12 13.

La Cigale - everybody except Elvis has played here too, from Mistinguette to Iggy Pop. At 120. Boulevard de Rochechouart, Paris 18. Métro: Pigalle or Anvers. InfoTel.: 01 42 23 15 15.

Le Zénith - a huge place, but smaller than Bercy - a musician's favorite, equal to La Cigale. In the park at La Villette, near 59. Boulevard MacDonald, Paris 20. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 44 52 54 60.

Batofar - last year's 'most hyped' joint, if an ex-lightship can be called this. Nothing on Mondays. The Batofar, from 21:00. Entry, drink; 30 francs. Quai François Mauriac, Paris 13. Métro: Quai de la Gare. InfoTel.: 01 56 29 10 00.

Guingette Pirate - Next door on the Seine to the Batofar, so it's an either-or. On the Quai François Mauriac, Paris 13. Métro: Quai de la Gare. InfoTel.: 01 56 29 10 20.

Flèche d'Or - almost every night, loud surprises - sometimes on the old rails underneath. Closed Monday and Tuesday. 102, bis. Rue de Bagnolet, Paris 20. Métro: none close by. InfoTel.: 01 43 72 41 44.

GlazArt - includes lots of 'Happy Hours,' which are between 21:00 and 22:00. 'Afters' continue at the Batofar. All of it at GlazArt, 7 to 15. Avenue de la Porte de la Villette, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 40 36 55 65.

La Java - mainly Cuban music, helped out at times with heavy-duty African drums. Dance lessons too. Plus dancers. Go crazy! 105. Rue du Faubourg du Temple, Paris 10. Métro: Goncourt or Belleville. InfoTel.: 01 42 02 20 52.

Café de la Danse - doors open at 19:30. The Café de la Danse, 5. Passage Louis Philippe, just off the Rue de Lappe. Paris 11. Métro: Bastille. InfoTel.: 01 47 00 57 59.

Cithéa - is more than its two zincs; jazz of all shapes, dancing. Cithéa isn't photogenic, but it's on Oberkampf too, at 114. Rue Oberkampf, Paris 11. Métro: Saint-Maur or Ménilmontant. InfoTel.: 01 40 21 70 95.

La Casa 128 - Cuban music, dancing, dining, more dancing; Thursday to Saturday; from 21:00 to 04:00. At 128. Rue La Fayette, Paris 10. Métro: Gare du Nord. InfoTel.: 01 48 01 05 71.

Le Gibus - Ex-punk, now techno, going on for 20 years. In any case, international loud music acts, some of which are DJs. Open every night. At 18. Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, Paris 11. Métro: République. InfoTel.: 01 47 00 78 88. Same address below is not a mistake.

La Favela Chic - is the Parisian version of a Brazilian slum with year-round carnival music. Closed Sunday evenings. Check out Favela Chic, 18. Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, Paris 11. Métro: République. InfoTel.: 01 40 21 38 14.

Sunside - Sunset - has live jazz upstairs and downstairs, and not DJ stuff as I thought it had either upstairs or downstairs. Concerts at 21:00 and 22:00. Check out Sunside and Sunset, both at 60. Rue des Lombards, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet. InfoTel.: 01 40 26 46 60 or 01 40 26 21 25.

Paris has 250 entertaining places. Some for you, some are not. Some is live, some is done by DJ's and some you bring yourself. As the crossroads between the Near-East, North Africa and Africa, and Europe too, expect to find your own exact groove if you are looking for it.

Cyclotourists - should check out the 'The Best Biking Guide to Paris And Day Trips Outside Paris,' which are by Rose Burke who has personally tested everything for you, both downhill and uphill. Rose has done everything except pedal for you.

Ile-de-France - is not an island, but the region surrounding Paris - all of it sort of like an 'island' in France. Find out more about its attractions for kids at the Espace Tourisme d'Ile-de-France, in the Carrousel du Louvre under the Pyramid. InfoTel.: 08 03 81 80 00.

Pouet-Pouets! - is an exhibition of dolls based on famous comic book characters - perhaps some of them by R. Crumb. Until 30. September; from 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays. At the Musée de la Poupée, in the Impasse Berthaud, just off 22. Rue Rambuteau, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

The Notre-Dame Crypt - features archaeologic discoveries dating to Gallo-Roman times made since 1970 and is open to individuals on the first Thursday of each month at 10:30. The next date is Thursday, 3. May. In front of Notre-Dame, Paris 4. Métro: Cité. InfoTel.: 01 44 59 58 33.

Catacombs - Note: the Catacombs are closed for 'renovations' until some date late in June. On reopening, see 'Au-Dessus des Catacombs.' InfoTel.: 01 43 22 47 63. The Ville de Paris 'regrets' - etc, but even catacombs need occasional renovations.

Echos de Lumière - artful illuminations and 'echoes' are built into 600 metres ofposter: expo sandofi, gal de l'europe the canal Saint-Martin's waters, and projections of lights will be set off by the passing boats you ride through. To view this, embark at the Port de l'Arsenal with Canauxrama or Paris Canal. Info. Tel.: 01 42 76 67 00.

Paris' Balloon - offers Paris views from a high place, without need of an elevator. Still in the air until the end of the year but you should definitely call first to find out if it is a balloon day or not. For adults, 66 francs and 33 for kids. At the Parc André Citroën, Paris 15. Métro: Balard. InfoTel.: 01 44 26 20 01.

Paris' Big Wheel - offers Paris views from another high place, which is called Concorde. Meant to come down at the end of 2000, the concession has been extended until late June of this year, so the gentle twirling in the sky continues. Place de la Concorde, Métro Concorde.

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