Changing Scene

photo: musee de la vie romantique, entry

The entry alley leading to the Musée de la Vie Romantique.

Musée de la Vie Romantique

Paris:- Wednesday, 2. May 2001:- Invitations to openings of exhibitions at city institutions have been arriving for years, but it is only recently that their dates have begun to be convenient - on Wednesdays for example, instead of Thursdays.

In today's case, for the Musée de la Vie Romantique, I attempted to find it about two months ago, just to have a look at it after a long time. I made a wrong turn coming back from another story on Montmartre though, and that was that.

For today's opening of the exhibition 'Dessins Romantiques Français,' the date is right and I check my map carefully before starting out. I pop out of the métro Saint-Georges and walk up the Rue Notre-Dame de Lorette until I come to the Rue Chaptal, where I turn left. Nothing to it.

The museum's entry is a alleyway, but there is a large banner for the current exhibition right beside it. As soonphoto: main collection house, mus romantique as I turn in it, it is 'Aha-time!' because I instantly remember my last visit - a very good number of years ago.

The front of the Hôtel Scheffer-Renan at the Musée de la Vie Romantique.

The alleyway leads straight to an interior compound, containing the former residence, ateliers and the garden of the painter and sculptor Ary Scheffer, who lived here from 1830 until his death in 1858. This is in the 'Nouvelle Athènes' area of the 9th arrondissement.

During the 'July Monarchy' the 'house in Chaptel' received visits from Delacroix, George Sand and Chopin - who all lived nearby - and Liszt, Rossini and Charles Dickens.

The sizeable permanent collection is in the main house. and the current exhibition is located in the two ateliers. Tea used to be served in the garden, and if this is still the case - in season - the museum's grounds are an oasis within the 'Nouvelle Athènes' area.

On arriving I am directed to some basement stairs which lead to the lower floor of one of the ateliers. For the members of the press present, Louis-Antoine Prat, who is the Louvre's drawing specialist, is explaining what we are seeing - as if he has personally known all the artists represented.

The exhibition of 'Dessins Romantiques Français' is composed mostly of drawings fromphoto: viewing expo, mus romantique private collections - which means not all collectors have loaned works. Monsieur Prat, quoting Suzanne Page and paraphrased, says 'all art locked in vaults is a crime.'

In one of Ary Scheffer's ateliers with Monsieur Prat.

Of the designs on show, 30 Paris collectors lent from one to ten works each. The artists are Delacroix, Théodore Chassériau, Géricault - with a small sketch of the battle of Waterloo - Ary Scheffer, of course, 'Grandville,' Victor Hugo, Ingres, Eugène Lami, Henri Lehmann, and Charles Baudelaire - to mention only about a third of them. According to Monsieur Prat, some are also 'absent.'

Finally, what is romantic? According to Sébastien Mercier, 'it is something you sense rather than define.' You, then, have probably been 'romantic' at least once.

Dessins Romantiques Français - are rarely seen works from private collections. This show continues until Sunday, 15. July; from 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays. In addition to viewing the museum, other activities are organized here, such as tours of the quarter. At the Musée de la Vie Romantique - Hôtel Scheffer-Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

About This Week's 'Scene' Column

Metropole's 'Scene' column is undergoing changes which are not completely defined yet. On one hand, attempts will continue to list events further in the future as an aid for your Paris visit planning - and on the other, consideration is being given to condensing the weekly Web version, to make it handier.

The full version will return next week - not necessarily 'on time' - but if you feel that you 'need to know more' this week, I suggest you consult last week's 'almost up-to-date' full-length column.



Rodin En 1900 - this exhibition recreates as nearly as possible one shown in 1900, featuring 168 sculptures, drawings and photographs that were shown at the Pavillon de l'Alma. Only until Thursday, 10. May; from 11:00 to 18:00; except Mondays. At the Musée du Luxembourg, 19. Rue de Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon r Saint-Suplice. Info. Tel.: 01 42 34 25 95.

Country Living - this is what happens in France outside Paris' Perifreak! so there is a salon for it - for hunting, for fishing, for horsey stuff, for 'le golf' and for 'country living,' which may include tips on what sort of four-wheel jeep to buy that can withstand the rigours of huge hypermarché parking lots, where many people gather to get the stuff needed for surviving 'in the country.' At the Country Show - untranslated - at the racetrack at Auteuil, from Friday, 11. May until Sunday, 13. May. Métro: Porte d'Auteuil.

Le 'Prince Noir' - this was the nickname of crime writer Andre Héléna, who has remained largely unknown since his death in 1972 despite being an extraordinary writer. This exhibition includes his original works, posters and photos. Starting Friday, 11. May and continuing until 30. August. From Monday to Friday; fromphoto: garden, mus romantique 14:00 to 18:00, and on Saturday from 10:00 to 17:00. At the BILIPO, 48-50. Rue du Cardinal-Lemoine, Paris 5. Métro: Cardinal-Lemoine. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 93 00.

The garden of the Musée de la Vie Romantique, surrounded by the ateliers.

Faust - by Charles Gounod, with the book for this performance by Jules Barbier and Michel Carré. Starting on Friday, 11. May, with dates continuing into June. At the Opéra Bastille, Place de la Bastille, Paris 12. Métro: Bastille. Toll ResaTel.: 08 36 69 78 68. Check the Web site for both the Palais Garnier and Bastille for opera events as well as current ballet productions.

Hammerklavier - by Yasmina Reza, directed by Mark Kilmurry and featuring Susie Lindeman. In English, it is autobiographical and imaginary, with familiar and fictional people. From Thursday, 10. May to Saturday, 12. May, at 20:30; and on Tuesday and Wednesday, 15. and 16. May at 19:00. At La Bohème, Théâtre des Déchargeurs, 3. Rue des Déchargeurs, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet. ResaTel.: 01 42 36 00 02.

Les Pestacles - is for kids, with 22 free shows featuring clowns, music, puppets, music, magic, clowns, music and so on. On Wednesdays at 14:30, until 29. September. At the Parc Floral de Paris, Route de la Pyramide, in the Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes. InfoTel.: 01 55 94 20 20.

Voyages - plunge into a soft and unreal atmosphere, in an installation created by Rachel Mahler. Beginning on Thursday, 10. May and continuing until Thursday, 28. June. Open from Monday to Saturday; from 13:00 to 19:00. At a new location called the Espace d'Art, 55. Rue du Montparnasse, Paris 14. Remember - it's 'Rue' not 'Boulevard.' Métro: Montparnasse or Edgar Quinet.

Hors Champ 2 - six prize-winning artists are featured at the city's cultural affairs headquarters, from Monday to Friday; from 10:00 to 18:00. In the Salon Jean Musy, at the Hôtel d'Albret, 31. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 67 00.

Buenos Aires Tango - begins a month of tango in Paris, featuring many Argentinean tango stars. The festival gets into the swing of things with six complete programs, beginning on Tuesday, 9. May and continuing until Sunday, 27. May. Various times, all at the Théâtre National du Chaillot, 1. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro. InfoTel.: 01 53 65 30 00 & ResaTel.: 01 53 65 30 00.

Quatre Jours de Marigny - this is for stamp collectors looking for themes, collections by countries, and has collectible letters and post cards. Marché aux Timbres de la Ville de Paris, Avenue de Marigny or Avenue Gabriel, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 39 81 46 61.

Arts de la Marionette - is the 2001 edition of an international biannual show, featuring everything about puppets, with a worldwide view. From Wednesday, 30. May until Sunday, 3. June. At the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Juarès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 44 64 79 70.

Tennis, Anyone? - hey, it's Roland Garros time again - almost ensuring bad weather. What is in dispute is a round of the international 'Grand Chelem' - aka 'slam.' From Monday, 28. May until Sunday, 1O. June. At the Roland Garros stadium, 2. Avenue Gordon-Bennett, Parisphoto: rodin 1900, musee luxembourg, poster 16. Métro: Porte d'Auteuil and walk west. InfoTel.: 01 47 43 48 00, but not for reservations.

For Camera Fans - a photographer once told me never to go to the annual Foire à la Photo de Bièvres with any sort of plastic card. Its 38th edition is coming up, on Sunday, 3. June, starting at 9:00 and continuing until 18:00.

Besides hardware, there will also be a considerable amount of collectible photos on exhibition, for sale, both to private buyers and from and to professionals. This will be at the Place de la Mairie in Bièvres, which can be reached with the RER 'C' from the Gare d'Austerlitz. There is supposed to be a train every hour. By car, leaving from the Porte de Chatillon, take the RN 309 straight ahead about nine kilometres. In Bièvres, look for the parking lot and a shuttle-bus to the Place de la Mairie.

Catone In Utica - by Antonio Vivaldi, in three acts with subtitles in French. Dates for this begins on Friday, 25. May and continue into June. At the Opéra Comique, Place Boïeldieu, Paris 2. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot. InfoTel.: 08 25 00 00 58

Salon du Roller - the roller folk come inside to show off their stuff to the folks wearing simple shoes. From Friday, 18. May to Sunday, 20. May; from 10:00 to 20:00; until 22:00 on Saturday. At the Espace Champeret,, Porte de Champeret, Paris 17. Métro: Porte de Champeret. InfoTel.: 01 40 38 07 08.

Paris Jazz Festival - is merely 22 free concerts, featuring names - Lisa Ekdahl, Salif Keita, Russell Malone, Didier Lockwood, Tania Maria, Buena Vista Social Club, Dee Dee Bridgewater, Chick Corea, Dave Brubeck - to name but a few. From Saturday, 19. May until Sunday, 29. July. Concerts are on weekends only at 16:30. At the Parc Floral de Paris, Route de la Pyramide, in the Bois de Vincennes. Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes. InfoTel.: 01 55 94 20 20.

Strebelle à Paris - from the Opéra and along the Rue de la Paix, and filling the Place Vendôme, find the monumental - really huge! - sculptures of Olivier Strebelle, beginning on Tuesday, 15 May and on show until Friday, 15. July. Paris 1 and 2. Métro: Opéra or Madeleine. Free entry of course - open non-stop.

La Mode et l'Enfant - 'mode' did exist for kids, for at least three centuries before our own, and it is on display, including costumes for royal kids. From Wednesday, 16. May until 18. November; from 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays. At the Musée de la Mode - Galleria, 10. Avenue Pierre-1st-de-Serbie, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 56 52 88 00.

The Zoo Story - by Edward Albee. Produced in English by the Insight America Touring Theater of Seattle under the direction of J D Lloyd and featuring Alan Becker and Matt Slinger. Hailed by the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung, which said it was 'finely tuned.' From Thursday, 24. May until Saturday, 9. June, at 19:00; but on Thursday, Friday and Saturdays only. At the Sudden Théâtre, 14-bis. Rue Sainte-Isaure Paris 18. Métro: Jules-Joffrin or Simplon. ResaTel.: 01 42 62 35.

Springtime for Italy - Italian art could stand up to the test of modernism, from 1880 to 1910. In addition to this major exhibition also see Carlo Bugatti and Gabriele d'Annunzio. Until Sunday, 15. July. Open from 10:00 to 18:00; until 21:45 on Thursdays. On Sundays, opening at 9:00; and at 9:00 beginning on Thursday, 21. June. Musée d'Orsay, Quai de Anatole France, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Les Primitifs Italiens - 50 newly restored rare works, by Giotto, Boticelli and Monaco; and four other major schools of Italian painting are represented in this importantphoto: cannes film festival 2001, poster exhibition. Prolonged until Sunday, 27. May; from 10:00 to 18:00 daily. At the Musée Andre-Jacquemart, 158. Boulevard Haussmann, Paris 8. Métro: Miromesnil. InfoTel.: 01 42 89 04 91.

Dessin à Bologne - one hundred year's worth, from 1490 to 1580, from the Renaissance to the 'Réforme Tridentine,' otherwise known as the Council of Trent. Until Monday, 2. July; from 9:00 to 17:45 and until 21:45 on Wednesdays. Musée du Louvre, Pyramid, Cour Napoléon, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 40 20 51 51.

Paysages d'Italie - is an exhibition of fresh-air painters in Italy from 1780 to 1830, when 'grand tours' were popular for artists and other forerunners of tourists. Until Monday, 9. July. Except Tuesdays, usually from 10:00 to 20:00. At the Grand Palais, Clemanceau entry. Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Signac 1865 - 1935 - is an exhibition of this significant artist's works, mounted by the Musée d'Orsay and staged at the Grand Palais. According to a TV-report - and now 'Ed' too - Paul Signac was the Riviera's 'Impressionist' - in a part of France he knew and painted better than his northern brothers. Until Monday, 28. May - by reservation from 10:00 to 13:00; otherwise none necessary. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général-Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. Info. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 10.

Les Aquarelles de Signac - feature 133 works by Paul Signac, from the Dyke Collection at the Museum of Arkansas. The above show contains watercolors too - if these are as good, don't miss this. Only until Tuesday, 15. May; from 11:00 to 17:00, except Mondays. Musée Marmottan, 2. Rue Louis-Boilly, Paris 16. Métro: La Muette. InfoTel.: 01 42 24 07 02.

Les Années Pop - painting, film, design, architecture, music, shows - the '50's and '60's in all their pastel and plastic glory. Until Monday, 16. June; daily from 11:00 to 21:00, except Tuesdays. At the Centre Georges Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Picasso Erotique - features about 40 paintings and 250 drawings and engravings treating one subject - one of Picasso's favorites - from 1900 up until the '60's. Until Sunday, 20. May; from 12:00 to 19:00 and 12:30 to 21:30 on Tuesdays and Thursdays; closed Mondays. At the Jeu de Paume, 1. Place de la Concorde, Paris 1 - within the Tuileries. Métro: Concorde. Info. Tel.: 01 47 03 12 50.

OEdipe Roi - is an exhibition of Picasso's work done for the theatre, in collaboration with Pierre Blanchar, featuring designs, model scenes, photos and sounds. Until Monday, 4. June; from 9:30 to 18:00 except on Mondays. At the Musée Picasso, 5. Rue de Thorigny, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 42 71 25 21.

Médée Furieuse - is a 'major exhibition' that continues until Monday, 30. July; daily except Tuesdays from 9:30 to 17:00. At the Musée Delacroix, 6. Rue de Furstenberg, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés or Mabillon. InfoTel.: 01 44 41 85 50.

Les Bronzes d'Ousmane Sow - this African artist last took over the Pont des Arts and was 'held-over' for a long time. Now Ousmane Sow returns with his first bronzes, to be on show until Saturday, 30. June. Exhibition hours are unknown, but free entry at the Musée Dapper, 35. Rue Paul-Valéry, Paris 16. Métro: Victor Hugo. InfoTel.: 01 45 00 01 50.

Les Gemmes de Louis XIV - 'gemmes' means a special kind of vase, made of hard stone - rare stone, this is. This exhibition reunites Louis XIV's collection, which includes rare pieces from antiquity up to the 17th century. Until Tuesday, 23. July; from 9:00 to 18:00 and until 21:45 on Wednesdays. Closed Tuesdays. Musée du Louvre, Pyramide entry, Cour Napoléon, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 40 20 51 51.

Jouer la Lumière! - features threads, textiles, lace - all of which changes with light and one's viewpoint. Except Mondays, from 11:00 to 18:00; on Wednesdays until 21:00. Until 31. December. At the Musée de la Mode, 107. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 44 55 57 50.

Paris et Charles V - the 'Wise,' son of Jean le Bon, crowned in 1364. Builder and arts patron, Charles V transformed the Louvre from a fortress into a palace. Until Saturday, 26. May; at the Bibliothèque Forney - and continuing from Wednesday, 6. June to Friday, 6. July at the Mairie of the 6th. Rue Bonaparte, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Suplice.

Pablo Gargallo - "A Catalan from Catalonia and the Catalan of the Ecole de Paris," also known as 'the Catalan sculptor.' Until Sunday, 10. June; from 11:00 to 17:30; except Mondays. At the Hôtel de la Monnaie, 11. Quai de Conti, Paris 6. Métro: Pont Neuf or Odéon. InfoTel.: 01 40 46 58 40.

Desnos, Foujita, Youki - surrealist love in Montparnasse was - surrealistic! Until Sunday, 29. July; from Wednesday to Sunday; from 13:00 to 19:00. Musée - Chemin du Montparnasse, 21. Avenue du Maine, Paris 15. Métro: Montparnasse. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 91 96.

Echos du Paradis - or, 'Jardins Persans et Moghols,' is a major exhibition in one of Paris' fancier gardens, the Parc de Bagatelle. This exhibition continues until Sunday, 1. July and is a two-part show. There will be photos of delicious Persian gardens by Persians, and there will be exceptional pieces from these gardens. Closed on Tuesdays. Bagatelle, Route de Neuilly, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métro: Pont de Neuilly, or bus 43. Park entry: 10 francs.

Diamants - The show for blonds - features 400 of the world's best - or biggest? - sparklers. Feared to be just some old crystals, the show required a fleet of Brinks' trucks to get it into place. This continues until Sunday, 15. July; daily from 9:00 to midnight except on Tuesday, when closing time is 20:00. At the Museum National d'Historie Naturelle, 57. Rue Cuvier, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu. InfoTel.: 01 40 79 30 00.

"Mille Sabords!" - features Tintin, Haddock, the dog and the other characters from the ever-lasting comic book series by Hergé. Until Sunday, 15. July; from 10:00 to 17:45, except Tuesdays. It's the Captain Haddock connection that put this into the Musée de la Marine, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro. InfoTel.: 01 53 65 69 53.

volt(a) - from the spark to the battery, and about Alessandro Volta - is an electrifying exhibition, continuing until Sunday, 17. June. At the Musée des Arts et Métiers, 60. Rue Réaumur, Paris 3. Métro: Arts et Métiers. Open daily except Mondays and holidays; from 10:00 to 18:00; on Thursdays until 21:30.

Sex Obsessions - of Robert 'Mr. Natural' Crumb and James Chedburn, features designs - 'lines on paper' - comic pages and mobile sculptures. Dimitri didn't tell me there were mobiles too. Until 11. October, daily from 10:00 to 02:00 - the late show - at the Musée de l'Erotisme, 72. Boulevard de Clichy, Paris 18. Métro: Blanche. InfoTel.: 01 42 23 24 78.

Sandorfi, Paintings - are featured in an exhibition continuing until Tuesday, 29. May; from Tuesday to Saturday; from 10:00 to 19:00 and on Monday from 14:00 to 19:00. At the Galerie de l'Europe, 55. Rue de Seine, Paris 6. Métro: Odéon or Mabillon.

In parallel, as a prelude to Hungary's Cultural Year, there will be a retrospective of Sandorfi's works from 1975 to 1990, to be shown at the Institut Hongrois, 92. Rue Bonaparte, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Germain. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 06 44.

Portraits d'Ecrivains - is an exhibition of 666 photos by Sophie Bassouls, featuring famous writers and some not so famous, and some no longer with us. Until Friday, 15. June,from Tuesday to Saturday; from 10:00 to 18:00 and on Sundays from 12:00 to 19:00. Closed Thursday, 24. May. At the Bibliothèque Historique, 22. Rue Mahler, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 44 59 29 60.

Carlos Freire - or, 'Tout Doit Disparaître,' which includes about 100 photos of his meetings with famous people like Orson Wells or Marguerite Yourcenar. Until Saturday, 30. June. At the Maison de l'Amérique Latine, 217. Boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino. InfoTel.: 04 49 54 75 35.

Sextet - features photographers Bernard Dufour, Inez Van Lamsweerde, Vinoodh, Daniel Lasclet, Diana Michener and Guy Pellaert. Until Sunday, 10. June. At the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 26.

Les Contes d'Hoffman - by Jacques Offenbach, with the book for this performance by Jules Barbier after his own work with Michel Carré. Featuring James Morris or Alan Held. Four dates left in May. At the Opéra Bastille, Place de la Bastille, Paris 12. Métro: Bastille. Toll ResaTel.: 08 36 69 78 68. Check the Web site for both the Palais Garnier and Bastille for opera events as well as current ballet productions.

Transferts - see Andréa Ferreol, Tom Novembre and André Falcon, directed by Jean-Claude Idée, in what may be a comedy because it's on daily except Monday at 21:00, 17:00 and 21:00 on Saturday, and at 15:30 on Sunday, at the Théâtre Montparnasse, 31. Rue de Gaité, Paris 14. Métro: Gaité or Edgar Quinet. Info. Tel.: 01 43 22 77 74.

Novecento - by Alessandro Baricco, is possibly a very big show that has escaped my attention, because it's been running since last September, and continues until the end of April. Except Sunday and Monday, daily at 21:00; and at 18:00 and 21:00 on Saturdays. At the Pepinère-Opéra, 7. Rue Louis-Le-Grand, Paris 2. Métro: Opéra. Info. Tel.: 01 42 61 44 16.

Chantons Sur la Pluie - may be better known as 'Singing In the Rain' and in this production the songs are in English, while the music and the comedy is in French. Continuing, but not on Mondays, from Tuesday to Saturday at 20:30 and Sundays at 15:30. Théâtre de la Porte Saint-Martin, 16. Boulevard Saint-Martin, Paris 10. Métro: Strasbourg-Saint-Denis. InfoTel.: 01 42 08 00 32.

Pompeii - is an exhibition advertised on posters, but one that I know nothing about otherwise except that it used to be about 17 km south of Naples, until 79 AD. At the Palais de la Découverte, Avenue Franklin-Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: same name. Info. Tel.: 01 56 43 20 21.

Contes de Fées - oral culture rendered into 280 pieces of text, some dating to 1695 and Perrault. On view until Sunday, 17. June, at the Richelieu branch of the Bibliothèque Nationale, 58. Rue de Richelieu, Paris 2. Métro: Bourse. InfoTel.: 01 53 79 59 59.

Balzac Dans Ses Murs - presents a new layout at the museum, and emphasis on Balzac's working style and private life in near-rural Passy. Until Sunday, 27. May; open from 10:00 to 17:00 daily except Mondays. At the Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: Passy. Info. Tel.: 01 55 74 41 80.

Brouillons d'Ecrivains - are essentially the scribbles of working writers, but when these are named Pascal, Rousseau or Hugo, then they are museum pieces. Note - see some of Balzac's above. About 200 examples on view, until Sunday, 17. June. From 10:00 to 19:00; and 12:00 to 19:00 on Sundays. Closed Mondays. At the François Mitterrand site of the Bibliothèque Nationale - Tour des Nombres, at the Quai François-Mauriac, Paris 13. Métro: Quai de la Gare or Bibliothèque François Mitterrand. InfoTel.: 01 53 79 49 49.

1940 - or, 'Année de Tous les Destins,' retraces the WWII campaign of May-June 1940 in France. There are few combat photos in this exhibition but much else. This exhibition continues until Saturday, 21. July. At the Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris - Musée Jean Moulin, Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Paris 15. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. InfoTel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

La Genèse d'un Film - features the birth of a film by Youri Norstein, with the help of designer Franceska Yarbousova. Until Sunday, 15. July. Except Monday, from 11:00 to 19:00. At the Salle Saint-Jean in the Hôtel de Ville, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville.

Ile-de-France - is not an island, but the region surrounding Paris - all of it sort of like an 'island' in France. Find out more about its attractions for kids at the Espace Tourisme d'Ile-de-France, in the Carrousel du Louvre under the Pyramid. InfoTel.: 08 03 81 80 00.

Les Grands Eaux Musicales - is the Château de Versailles' annual H2O and musicalphoto: francois lemoyne, decor, versailles, poster fountain show. Every Sunday, at the 'Grande Perspective' from 11:00 to 12:00; and at 15:30 at all of the Bassins and Bosquets, with the finale at the 'Bassin de Neptune' around 17:20. Also on Saturdays on the following dates - the 8. and 24. May, and from 7. July to 29. September including the 15. August. At the Parc du Château de Versailles. Take a train from the Gare Montparnasse or Saint-Lazare, or the RER 'C.' InfoTel.: 01 30 83 78 88.

Pouet-Pouets! - is an exhibition of dolls based on famous comic book characters - perhaps some of them by R. Crumb. Until 30. September; from 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays. At the Musée de la Poupée, in the Impasse Berthaud, just off 22. Rue Rambuteau, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Paris' Balloon - offers Paris views from a high place, without need of an elevator. Still in the air until the end of the year but you should definitely call first to find out if it is a balloon day or not. For adults, 66 francs and 33 for kids. At the Parc André Citroën, Paris 15. Métro: Balard. InfoTel.: 01 44 26 20 01.

Paris' Big Wheel - offers Paris views from another high place, which is called Concorde. Meant to come down at the end of 2000, the concession has been extended until late June of this year, so the gentle twirling in the sky continues. Place de la Concorde, Métro Concorde.

For more events, please consult last week's 'almost up-to-date' full-length column.

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