Open 24/24, All Summer

photo: parc buttes chaumont

Former quarry is the site of the Parc des Buttes Chaumont.

Be In the Mood For It

Paris:- Saturday, 30. June 2001:- This weekend a lot of Parisians left town so they could spend their time in traffic jams out in the country - unaided in this migration by striking autoroute workers.

Those who haven't left may decide to do so on Friday, 13. July - while the rest of us dull folk will stick around for the parties on the even of Bastille Day, and if we skip these we may even go to the Champs-Elysées on Saturday, 14. July to watch the traditional parade.

After this, in theory, France closes. This will leave the coast clear for a season in Paris known as summer - or été. This season is known and appreciated by some Parisians and many visitors - especially if it has some weather to match the mood - because it can be very relaxed.

I am already in this mood, so this column is 'as it is.'



Most of this week's 'opening events' are not here because the summer's new items are in 'Coming Events' even though they are coming soon. Out of habit, here are two events anyhow.

Forum des Images - has a full-summer program for kids, plus one for adults, with 'adult' themes until Sunday, 29. July. Starting on Thursday, 16. August, 'Le Film Dans le Film,' which will feature movies that have featured movies as subjects. Then there will be a shorter 'Etrangebrochure: musee d'art americain giverny Festival' from 22. August until 4. September. Screenings from Tuesday to Sunday from 12:00 to 21:00. At the Forum des Images, Porte Sainte-Eustache, Forum des Halles, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet-Les Halles. InfoTel.: 01 44 76 62 00.

Linda Thalman recommends the Web site for Giverny, for discovering gardens, castles, mills and Claude Monet's house.

Antique Métro Rides - because of the métro's 100th anniversary last year, the RATP has decided to re-re-run the old red and green 'Sprague' wagons dating from the '30s. The line chosen for this is the six, between Kléber and Nation, which is largely elevated and crosses the Seine twice. Brief photo-op stops are made on the Bir-Hakeim and Bercy bridges. Reckon on 80 minutes for the round-trip. Trains leave from the Kléber station at 14:30 and 16:30. These trains will be running on Sundays only - on the 15. and 29. July; the 12. and 26. August; 9. and 23. September and 7. October. Reservations are necessary. InfoTel.: 01 48 04 22 65.

Last Chances

Villette Jazz Festival - is basically two three-day weekends of jazz in all its forms. Some concerts are free because they will be performed outside. Big names, some not so big, but lots of live music. Varieties of combo tickets are available. Remaining dates - are Friday, Saturday, Sunday; 6, 7 and 8. July. Concerts start as early as 16:30. At the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Juarès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. ResaTel.: 01 40 03 75 75.

Foire Saint-Germain - is an annual fair, taking place in the Quartier Latin, mostly in the area between the Place Saint-Sulpice and the Odéon theatre. This continues a tradition begun in 1176; relaunched in 1978. It includes an antiques market, music, exhibitions and street theatre such as 'Une fille à brûler,' which is about Jeanne d'Arc. Until Sunday, 8. July. For more details, try Foire Saint-Germain. Mostly near the Place Saint-Sulpice. Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Sulpice, Saint-Germain, Odéon or Mabillon. InfoTel.: 01 43 29 61 04.

Festival de Saint-Denis - this annual affair features music, operas and creations - but mostly music, and a lot of it will be Italian this year. This festival continues until Thursday, 5. July. Events take place at four locations in Saint-Denis, just north of Paris. Métro: Saint-Denis-Basilique or RER line 'D' to Gare de Saint-Denis. InfoTel.: 01 48 13 06 07.

Springtime for Italy - Italian art could stand up to the test of modernism, from 1880 to 1910. In addition to this major exhibition also see Carlo Bugatti and Gabriele d'Annunzio. Until Sunday, 15. July. Open from 10:00 to 18:00; until 21:45 on Thursdays. Musée d'Orsay, Quai de Anatole France, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Strebelle à Paris - from the Opéra and along the Rue de la Paix, and filling the Place Vendôme, find the monumental - really huge! - sculpturesbrochure: musee jacquemart andre of Olivier Strebelle, on show until Friday, 15. July. Paris 1 and 2. Métro: Opéra or Madeleine. Free entry of course - open non-stop. Mentioned in a recent issue.

Dessins Romantiques Français - rarely seen works from private collections. This show continues until Sunday, 15. July; from 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays. In addition to the museum, other activities are organized here, such as tours of the quarter. Featured in a recent Metropole issue. At the Musée de la Vie Romantique - Hôtel Scheffer-Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Viel Spaß* - will show aspects of the contemporary German artistic scene, as represented by six artists. Viel Spaß continues until Friday, 13. July. Open Monday to Friday, from 10:00 to 19:00. At the Espace Paul Ricard, 9. Rue Royale, Paris 8. Métro: Concorde or Madeleine. InfoTel.: 01 53 30 88 00.

Diamants - The show for blonds - features 400 of the world's best - or biggest? - sparklers. Feared to be just some old crystals, the show required a fleet of Brinks' trucks to get it into place. This continues until Sunday, 15. July; daily from 9:00 to midnight except on Tuesday, when closing time is 20:00. At the Museum National d'Historie Naturelle, 57. Rue Cuvier, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu. InfoTel.: 01 40 79 30 00.

L'Or des Amazones - is an exhibition of the prestigious works by nomads from the steppes of Asia; from 600 BC to 400 AD. All the pieces are on loan from southern Russian museums and include the entire collection from the tomb of the Princess of Kobiakovo. Until Sunday, 15. July. Open from 10:00 to 17:40 daily except Mondays. Musée Cernuschi, 7. Avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers. InfoTel.: 01 45 63 50 75.

La Genèse d'un Film - features the birth of a film by Youri Norstein, with the help of designer Franceska Yarbousova. Until Sunday, 15. July. Except Monday, from 11:00 to 19:00. At the Salle Saint-Jean in the Hôtel de Ville, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville.

Marc Couturier : Secrets - installation featuring the idea that some objects are living and are so powerful that they can't be seen by the non-initiated. Voodoo? Until Monday, 16. July. Open Monday to Friday, from 10:00 to 12:00 and from 13:30 to 17:30; and on weekends from 12:30 to 18:00. At the Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, 293. Avenue Daumésnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée. InfoTel.: 01 44 74 85 00.

Fête the Eve of the Fête de la Bastille - at the firemen's balls scattered around Paris. Montmartre started it in 1937 and the good-natured brave lads party on; all these are on Friday, 13 and Saturday, 14. July, mostlyposter: mag, l'obs, guide ete, 300 lieux branches with live music. Rousseau, 21. Rue du Jour, Paris 1; Sévigné, 7. Rue Sévigné, Paris 4; Blanche, Rue Blanche, Paris 9; Chaligny, 26. Rue de Chaligny, Paris 12; Champerret, 3. Rue de l'Yser, Paris 17 and Montmartre at 12. Rue Carpeaux, Paris 18. Métro: Guy-Moquet. Be sure to check Friday's newspapers for addresses. The first fête lasted until the afternoon of the next day, and everyone at it missed the Champs-Elysées parade.

Quartier d'Eté - a vast variety of events make up this summer's Paris program of artistic treats - from techno to opera to circuses - to be performed on streets, places and unusual locations throughout the city. This program goes on more or less non-stop from about Saturday, 14. July until mid-August. Some of these events are free and others are not. The Quartier d'Eté Web site should have complete details. InfoTel.: 01 44 94 98 00.

Ciné l'Eté - formerly 'Aout au Ciné,' now begins on Sunday, 15. July. If you are under 25 your cinema seat costs 25 francs. The list of participating cinemas can be found on a postcard, available nearly everywhere. At the boxoffice, be prepared to prove your age. The program continues until Friday, 31. August. These conditions are also accepted at the outdoor movies at La Villette and the Parc André Citroën. InfoTel.: 08 20 00 75 75.

Walk-In Outside Movies - are now a tradition at the Parc de la Villette, which has a sit-down place for you to watch free movies on an inflated screen. Films roll from Tuesday, 17. July until Sunday, 26. August; and start about 22:00 when it's dark enough. Deckchairs are also available. Prairie du Triangle, Parc de la Villette. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 40 03 76 92.

L'Octuor de France - offers 10 chamber music concerts in the Orangerie in the Parc de Bagatelle. Brahms, Prokofiev, Verdi - in nine concerts - with two entry prices: 100 francs for afternoons and 150 francs for candlelight - plus 10 francs for entry to the park. From Thursday, 19. July until Wednesday, 15. August. Parc de Bagatelle, Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Métro: Pont de Neuilly, plus bus 43, plus 10 minutes' walk. InfoTel.:01 42 29 07 83.

Au-dessus des Catacombs - the wait is nearly over for the reopening of the Cata combs, with this new exhibition starting on Tuesday, 17. July, continuing until 30. December. Closed on Mondays and some holidays, but open from 14:00 to 16:00 and on Sundays from 9:00 to 11:00 and 14:00 to 16:00. At the Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau Info. Tel.: 01 43 22 47 63.

Tour de France - after riding around France for three weeks followed by a huge supporting circus including TV on motorcycles, this year's bike race wheels off its final laps in Paris. The finishing line is on the Champs-Elysées and the final day will be Sunday, 29. July.

The Château de Budapest - part of the Hungarian season called 'MAGYart' begins with this exhibition about the history of Budapest's Château; repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt. Most items on display are from the Budapest History Museum. Until 16. September. Except Mondays, generally open from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Carnavalet - Histoire de Paris, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin-Vert. InfoTel.: 01 44 59 58 58.

Regards Persans - is an exhibition presenting the last 20 years of photography in Iran,poster: la nuit des papillons, thr des cinq diamants represented with 200 photos and 20 photographers - which in turn represent three photographic schools in Tehran alone. Continues until 31. August. At the Espace EDF Electra, 6. Rue Récamier, Paris 7. Métro: Sèvres-Babylon. InfoTel.: 01 53 63 23 45.

37th Salon de la Marine - discover the salon that presents the French Navy's official painters, plus other artists attracted by watery scenes every other year. Until Mondday, 27. August; from 10:00 to 17:50 daily except Tuesdays. At the Musée de la Marine, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro. InfoTel.: 01 53 65 69 69.

Maillol Peintre - is an exhibition of 60 of the painter's works, from the period of 'Nabi' to the '40s. Until 20. October; from 11:00 to 18:00 daily except Tuesdays. At the Musée Maillol - Fondation Dina Vierny, 59-61. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Rue du Bac. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 59 58.

Cinquante Ans de Sculpture Espagnole - presents 19 significant Spanish artists, from the last half of 20th century, with some works made especially for this expo, which will be shown later in Madrid, in the Retiro. Free entry, from 7:00 to 23:00, in the gardens of the Palais Royal, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal.

Da Adversiadade Vivemos - from the '60s and '70s, 14 of Latin America's most dynamic young artists, chosen by Carlos Basualdo. Also on view, Niele Toroni and Dan Graham. The first two until 16. September and the third until 14. October. Except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40; until 18:45 on weekends. At Paris' Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

La Mode et l'Enfant - 'mode' did exist for kids, for at least tree centuries before our own, and it is on display, including costumes for royal kids. Until 18. November; from 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays. At the Musée de la Mode - Galleria, 10. Avenue Pierre-1st-de-Serbie, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 56 52 88 00.


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