The Fall Scene

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Despite everybody's plans, this is how the Tour Eiffel
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From September to December

Paris:- Saturday, 18. August 2001:- Putting all of the following into 'Coming Events' would have made this week's 'Scene' column long enough to read until December.

Instead, if your visit to Paris is planned between now and the end of the year, the following will give a sketch of what Paris has planned for you.



This is a far from complete program, with events for September being the most detailed. Some of these are even more detailed in this week's regular 'Scene' column.

Le Voyage d'Hiver - Franz Schubert's 'Winterreise,' on three dates from 24. to 30. September, at the Théâtre du Châtelet. Also hear the orchestra and chorus of Saint-Petersburg's Mariinski Theatre on 26. September.

Concerts à la Sainte-Chapelle - with the Trompettes de Versailles. On the 7, 10, 12, September and the 29 and 30. October. Sainte-Chapelle, Ile de la Cité.

Béjart Ballet Lausanne - four ballets, to be performed from Wednesday, 19. September until 7. October, at the Palais des Congrés.

21st Fêtes d'Automne - in the 5th arrondissement begin on 10. September and continue until 21. December.

Electrotrocadéro - aka Techno Parade, starts somewhere in Paris at 13:00 on Saturday, 15. September. See the latest 'Scene' column for last-minute details. InfoTel.: 01 42 47 84 76 75.

Heritage Days In France - otherwise known as the Journées du Patrimonie weekend, when many closed sites are open and all are free. In Paris and throughout France. On Saturday, 15 and Sunday, 16. September.

30th Festival d'Automne à Paris - the multi-everything festival, starting on Monday, 17. September and continuing until 21. December. Details at 156. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Louvre-Rivoli. InfoTel.: 01 53 45 17 00.

Fireworks and Gardens - party time for Paris' gardens on the weekend of 22 and 23. September, with fireworks around 21:00 on Saturday, 22. September, near the Quai Saint-Bernard, Paris 5.

Les Neuf Encientes de Paris - each phase of Paris has its own wall, rampart, barrier or today's Perifreak! This exhibition shows them all, all at once, and from Thursday, 13. Septemberbrochure: opera comique until Sunday, 18. November; from 10:00 to 17:00 - all at the Musée de l'Armée, Hôtel des Invalides, 129. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Varennes or Latour-Maubourg. InfoTel.: 01 43 25 30 30.

Jean Dubuffet's - centennial means a major retrospective for this painter, from Wednesday, 12. September until the end of the year. From 11:00 to 21:00 except on Tuesdays. At the Centre Georges Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Panorama of Hungarian Photographers - without details, this appears to be another fresh-air exhibition, on view from Wednesday, 12. September until sometime in October. To be found in the garden of the Palais-Royal, 1. Place du Palais-Royal, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal-Louvre. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 06 44.

Budapest Tram - also within the framework of the 'Magyart' season, there just may a whole tram from Budapest parked in front of Paris' Hôtel de Ville, from Thursday, 13. September until Sunday, 16. September. Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 06 44.

Gestations - photographer Muriel Toulemonda was invited to Budapest for two months, to study horses, the Danube's waters and Budapest's contradictions. The results will be on display from Friday, 28. September until Sunday, 18. November. From Monday to Friday, from 10:00 to 18:00. Free entry. At the Hôtel d'Albret, 31. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 84 00.

Sculpture Biannual - is the 8th and it is 'European' in scope. From Friday, 14. September until Sunday, 14. October, daily from 10:00 to 20:00, and probably outside as well as free. In the Jardin des Plantes, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu or Gare d'Austerlitz. InfoTel.: 01 42 78 99 91.

"Moi Zénobie, Reine de Palmyre" - the cultural centre of the Panthéon has arranged this exhibition to tell us about the reign of Zénobie in the third century in Egypt. From Tuesday, 18. September until Sunday, 16. December, from Monday to Saturday, from 10:45 to 17:45. On Sundays and holidays from 14:00 to 18:40. Mairie of the 5th, 21. Place du Panthéon, Paris 5. Métro: RER Luxembourg. InfoTel.: 01 55 43 10 50.

Rouge et Or - or, the 'Trésors du Portugal Baroque,' is a major exhibition to begin on Tuesday, 25. September and continue until 25. February 2002. Coming to the Musée Andre-Jacquemart, 158. Boulevard Haussmann, Paris 8. Métro: Miromesnil. InfoTel.: 01 42 89 04 91.

L'Or des Rois Scythes - this exhibition will fill up the Grand Palais until the endposter: cirque alexandra bouligione of the year, and may be the last expo in it for some time. Beginning on Thursday, 27. September. Reservations required for morning visits until 13:00; come as you are afterwards. Closed Tuesdays. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Patrimonie Disparu - from the time of Clovis until the end of the industrial revolution all sorts of important monuments have been disappearing. It's a wonder that there is anything left to look at. Madame de Pompadour's Bellevue may be long gone, but a wisp of drawings remain. On view from Thursday, 20. September until Sunday, 16. December. Closed on Tuesdays. To be at the Trianon de Bagatelle, Parc de Bagatelle, Route de Neuilly, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métro: Pont de Neuilly, or bus 43. Park entry: 10 francs. InfoTel.: 01 45 01 20 10.

C'Est Chic - the Compagnie des Prairies will stage dancing in and around the Square du Vert-Galant, from Friday, 14. September until Tuesday, 18. September, daily at 20:00 sharp - and free. Ile de la Cité, Pont-Neuf, Paris 1. Métro: Pont-Neuf or Saint-Michel. InfoTel.: 01 43 20 85 84.

@rt Outsiders 2001 - everything is getting tossed into the category of photography these days - things are changing. Rising 'outsiders' Nicole Tran Ba Vang and Christophe Luxereau are featured at this image festival to be held from Wednesday, 12. September until Sunday, 30. September. At the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

Aux Frontières de l'Art Brut - continues a show begun two years ago with the works of seven others artists, operating between 'art brut' and 'art naive.' Also see 'Noir sur Blanc' which presents eight other artists, working without colors. From Monday, 10. September until Sunday, 6. January 2002. At the Halle Saint-Pierre, 2. Rue Ronsard, Paris 18. Métro: Anvers. InfoTel.:01 42 58 72 89.

Leclerc et Ses Hommes - Crossed Destinies - the armed victor of Koufra, liberator of Paris and Strasbourg did it all with a wide variety men from all stations in life, who contributed to his and their own destinies. Presented with a background of comics from 1948-49, this exhibition begins on Tuesday, 18. September and continues until Sunday, 20. January 2002. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the 'Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris - Musée Jean Moulin,' Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Paris 15. InfoTel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

Babel TV - Patrick Mimran will be at the Orangerie de Bagatelle from Friday, 7. September until Monday, 15. October, from 11:00 to 18:00 daily except Tuesdays. Whatever it is besides a 'major event,' see Babel TV when you've got time to visit the Orangerie de Bagatelle, in the Bois de Boulogne. Paris 16. Métro: Pont de Neuilly. InfoTel.: 01 45 01 20 10.

Savignac - one of the best poster designers in the last half of the last century, Raymond Savignac had his first displayed in 1933. This exhibition runs from Tuesday, 11. Septemberposter: thtr aquarium, 9 mm to Saturday, 12. January 2002. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 13:30 to 20:00. At the Bibliothèque Forney, Hôtel de Sens,1. Rue Figuier, Paris 4. Métro: Pont Marie InfoTel.:01 42 78 14 60.

Les Nouveaux Solistes - fill up the greenhouses at Auteuil with classical music from Sunday, 9. September until Monday, 1. October. At the Serres d'Auteuil, Pavillon des Azalées, 3. Avenue de la Porte d'Auteuil, Paris 16. Métro: Porte d'Auteuil. InfoTel.: 01 46 44 55 42.

Nouveau Cirque - the circus renews itself and even experiments, with these 'Scènes de Cirque. From Thursday, 27. September until Saturday, 13. October. From Wednesday to Saturday, at 20:30. At the Cabaret Sauvage, in the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 08 03 30 63 06.

Jenny Holzer - will be arranging projections of texts along the Seine, on the Louvre, on the stairs of the Bibliothèque Nationale, on the trees of the Tuileries and on the Obelisk in the Place Vendôme. From Thursday, 20. September until Sunday, 4. November. Within the Festival d'Automne program. Details at 156. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Louvre-Rivoli. InfoTel.: 01 53 45 17 00.

Helen Levitt - for a long time known only to insiders for her 'Street Photography,' this exhibition shows photos of immigrants, from the '60s to the '90s. From Wednesday, 12. September until Monday, 19. November. Except Tuesdays, hours are from 12:00 to 19:00. At the Centre National de la Photographie, 11. Rue Berryer, Paris 8. Métro: Etoile or George V. InfoTel.: 01 53 76 12 32.

Arnold Böcklin - exhibition to be held from Tuesday, 3. October until 15. January 2002. Daily from 10:00 to 18:00, and to 22:00 on Thursdays, but closed on Mondays. At the Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

Hans Namuth and Philippe Halsman - Namuth was art director of Harper's Bazaar, plus did 500 portraits of Jackson Pollock and other famous people. Unless it's a typo, Halsman's photos are also on view. Starting Friday, 5. October and continuing until 6. January 2002. Except Monday, daily from 10:00 to 18:30. At the Patrimoine Photographique, Hôtel de Sully, 62. Rue Saint Antoine, Paris 4. Métro: Bastille or Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 42 74 47 75.

Territories - an exhibition demonstrating the crossroads between art, information and the news, as interpreted by artists. From Tuesday, 9. October until 30. December; except Mondays, from 13:00 to 19:00. At the Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts, 14. Rue Bonaparte, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Germain. InfoTel.: 01 47 03 50 74.

L'Orient de Saladin - is an exhibition about the life and times of the Crusades. Starting on Tuesday, 23. October and continuing until 10. March 2002.Except Mondays, open from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Institut du Monde Arabe, 1. Rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu. InfoTel.: 01 40 51 38 38.

Kannibals et Vahinés - how we looked at the south seas, as seen through popular literature from the end of the 18th century until now. With comics, cinema, travel magazines - from Jules Verne to Tintin. Starting on Wednesday 24. October, until 18. February 2002. Daily from 10:00 to 17:30, except Tuesdays. At the Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie, 293. Avenue Daumésnil, Paris 12. Métro: Porte Dorée. InfoTel.: 01 44 74 85 00..

Les Sports - as sculpted by Bouchard, for the 1924 Olympics foreseen for Paris. Beginning on Wednesday, 10. October and continuing until 13. March 2002. Only open on Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 14:00 to 19:00. At the Musée Bouchard, 25. Rue de l'Yvette, Paris 16. Métro: Jasmin. InfoTel.: 01 46 47 63 46.

Figure de Passion - is an exhibition featuring Baroque painting and music. Beginning on Tuesday, 23. October and continuing until Sunday, 20. January 2002. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 12:00 to 18:00 and on Sundays from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Cité de la Musique, at the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 44 84 44 84.

La Comédie Humaine - Balzac's opus, in its first 'Edition Furne' was a deluxeposter: show, crime, punishment, hossein, huster edition with a popular price, which launched modern publishing techniques in 1840. At the time the trick was to price the work low enough to discourage counterfeits and reading rooms, yet return a profit to bookshops and the author. From Tuesday, 3. October until Sunday, 6. January 2002. Except on Monday, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: Passy or La Muette. InfoTel.: 01 55 74 41 80.

Lumières Magyares - between 1870 and 1920 Hungarian painters left the 'academy' behind in their studios and began painting the light outside, which brought Hungarian painting to its highest level, at a time of change and danger. See these tendencies from Thursday, 11. October until Sunday, 13. January 2002. To be open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 11:00 to 18:00, in the Salle Saint-Jean in the Hôtel de Ville, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 51 53.

FIAC 2001 - if you are going to have 200 modern art exhibitions at once you will need a big space for it. The art galleries taking part in this year's show have been limited to 160, enabling about 30 percent of them to be first-time exhibitors. From Wednesday, 10. October until Monday, 15. October. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles. Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. No InfoTel., but try the FIAC's Web site for more info.

Fête de la Science - it is the 10th year of this popularization of science, and the 100th anniversary of the Nobel Prizes. This year's France-wide 'fête' also emphasizes European collaboration across the spectrum of the sciences. Dates are Monday, 15. October until Sunday, 21. October. For details, see France's research and the education Web sites, as well as the site of the Palais de la Découverte.

Raphaël - Grace et Beauté - turns up in the Senat's little gallery for an extended stay from Wednesday, 10. October until the end of January 2002. Free entry, at the Musée du Luxembourg, 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Sulpice or Odéon. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 25 95.

Photo Exhibitions - featuring photographers André Martin, Alain Bublex, Alain Maccheroni and Michel Butor, from Wednesday, 10. October until Sunday, 11. November. At the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 26.

Art & Essai - will be shown during 'Paris Capitale du Cinéma, from Wednesday, 10. October until Tuesday, 16. October. Location not yet announced.

Traversées (New French Wave) - France's artists have a 'new energy' which will be on show at this exhibition, also featuring architecture, music and literature. Fromposter: circus opera, flute enchante, mozart Thursday, 18. October until Sunday, 13. January 2002. At Paris' Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Le Plus Belles Robes du Cinéma - come from the collection of the Cinémathèque Française, and many have never been exhibited before. Illustrated with sketches, photos and film extracts. From Wednesday, 24. October until 24 February 2002. Except Mondays, open from 11:30 to 18:30. Pavillon des Arts, Porte Rambuteau, Terrace Lautréamont, 101. Rue Rambuteau, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet-Les Halles. InfoTel.: 01 42 33 82 50.

La Juif Errant - an exhibition around the legend, within other legends, of the 'Wandering Jew.' From Wednesday, 24. October until 24. February 2002. Except Saturdays, daily from 11:00 to 18:00, and Sundays, from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 86 53.

L'Atelier de Gilbert Boyer - an installation based on a text by Zadkine and a voyage to Canada, Gilbert Boyer explores the ties between public and private spaces. From Thursday, 25. October until 27. January 2002. From Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Zadkine, 100-bis. Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

Au Temps de Marcel Proust - an exhibition presenting more than 200 pieces from the François-Gérard Seligmann collection, mostly from the Musée Carnavalet's own collection. Focused on the Belle Epoque, with paintings of Paris of the period, with portraits of the real people Proust used as models in his prose. Paintings by Jean Béraud, Henri Somm and Abel Truchet. From Wednesday, 24. October until 20. January 2002. Except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Carnavalet - Histoire de Paris, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

Les Défis du Vivant - is constituted by a series of exhibtions, divided into three grand themes, concerning the identity of man and the effects of industry, politics, social and ethical issues. From Wednesday, 24. October until 1. May 2002. Open daily from 10:00 to 18:00 and until 19:00 on Sundays, closed on Mondays. At the Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie, 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 40 05 80 00.

International Cinema - holds a meeting or festival from Wednesday, 31. October until Sunday, 11. November. Check on times for screenings from Tuesday to Sunday, which are usually from 12:00 to 21:00. At the Forum des Images-Vidéothèque at the Forum des Halles, Porte Saint-Eustache. Paris 1. Info. Tel.: 01 44 76 62 00.

17th Festival Paris 13 - from Monday, 15. October until Wednesday, 31. October. Info from 8. Rue des Cinq Diamants, Paris 13. InfoTel.: 01 45 80 18 62.

Mix Move - new music meets new technologies for three days, from Friday, 19. October until Sunday, 21. October. At the Grand Halle de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 42 23 00 33.

Arts de la Jongle - more 'nouveau cirque' features several units such as Jongle, Lili and Non Nova. From Thursday, 18. October until Sunday, 18. November. Various days and times. At the Espace Chapiteaux, in the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 08 03 30 63 06.

Rencontres 2001 - seems to be a basket of dance, music, theatre, exhibitions and 'multimedia,' lasting from Wednesday 24. October until Sunday, 11. November. See the Cultures Urbaines Web site for details. In the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 001 40 03 75 75.

Mali-Kow - is an exhibition where you can discover the various realities of Mali, though objects and films from this African country. Beginning on Wednesday, 7. November and continuing until 24. February 2002. From Wednesday to Sunday, from 14:00 to 19:00, in the Pavillon Paul Delouvrier. At the Parc et Grand Halle de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 08 03 30 63 06.

Malraux et la Modernité - for the centennial of his birth, André Malraux isposter: salon ceramique, hotel dassault honored for his half-century or artistic endeavors and as a 'visionary of culture.' From Monday, 12. November until 31. March 2002. At the Musée de la Vie Romantique - Hôtel Scheffer Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges, Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Photographs - by Don MacCullin, from Wednesday, 21. November until February 2002. Also see the exhibits by Marie-Laure Decker and Jorge Molder, beginning on the same date and continuing until 20. January. At the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 26.

Histoires de Calendriers - is also known as 'De Temps en Temps' and it is an exhibition of the idea of changing time rather than the mechanics of keeping track of it. 200 pieces will be on display, from 2000 years. Staring in Monday, 12 November and continuing until 8. February 2002. Except Tuesdays, open from 12:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de l'Histoire de France, Hôtel de Rohan, 60. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 40 27 60 96.

Sous le Soleil de Mithra - may be an exhibition of sculptures inspired or done by Picasso - most likely at Mithra - beginning on Wednesday, 28. November and continuing until 4. March 2002. From 9:30 to 18:00 except on Tuesdays. At the Musée Picasso, 5. Rue de Thorigny, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 42 71 25 21.

Africolor - is a multi-site music festival, beginning on Friday, 14. December and continuing until Christmas Day. Info from Africolor, 145. Rue de Ménilmontant, Paris 20. InfoTel.: 01 47 97 69 99.

The Group Lhoist Collection - features photos by Roy Arden, Bernd and Hilla Becher, Elliot Erwitt, Rodney Graham, and Josef Koudelka. From Wednesday, 5. December until 11. February 2002. Except Tuesdays, hours are from 12:00 to 19:00. At the Centre National de la Photographie, 11. Rue Berryer, Paris 8. Métro: Etoile or George V. InfoTel.: 01 53 76 12 32.

Beginning next spring, Paris and France will be celebrating the bicentennial of Victor Hugo, with a large number of exhibitions, continuing until the start of 2003. In mid-spring of 2002 the 'Saison Czech' begins with a large palette of exhibitions, which continue until mid-2003.

Italia Antigua - is an exhibition bringing together a 100 designs of 'antique Italy' and the world of Rome. Manyposter: aida, verdi, stade de france done by members of the Academie de France since the 18th century. Beginning on Tuesday, 1. January and continuing until 31. March 2002. Daily except Mondays from 13:00 to 19:00. At the Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts, 14. Rue Bonaparte, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Germain. InfoTel.: 01 47 03 50 74.

L'Année du Cirque - starts the year off on Thursday, 3. January 2002 at the location of the Cultural Affairs direction of the Ville de Paris in the Hôtel d'Albret, 31. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 67 00.

Medium Future - 2004 - mark your calendars for the International Exposition in Seine-Saint-Denis, with the theme 'La Planète des Images.'
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