More Than the Stuff that Wasn't

photo: marco polo fountain

On a good day the Marco Polo fountain is a good adventure.

More 'Rest of Show Goes On'

Paris:- Saturday, 22. September 2001:- I was annoyed with the city for annulling all the September fun until doing this week's column, when I got to clip it out and add more than the stuff that wasn't.

For security reasons, some large events were postponed or canceled outright. The 'Journées du Patrimoine' seem to have been canceled for this year. The fate of the planned 'Budapest Tram' remains unknown, while the 'Jardins en Fête' was cancelled along with the 'No Cars' day, today.

Events for Fall 2001 were outlined in a separate column four weeks ago, but it still remains within the issue 6.35. Some of this other column's October items now appear in this column.



Notre Dame de Paris - Victor Hugo's really big 'Paris' show is back in town, again, I think. Isn't this a re-run or a re-make? Whichever it is, playing daily except Mondays, until the end of December. Usually at 20:30, but 15:00 and 20:30 on Saturdays and at 15:30 on Sundays. At the Théâtre Mogador, 25. Rue de Mogador, Paris 9. Métro: Trinité. InfoTel.: 01 53 32 32 00.

Irma La Douce - this is the Alexandre Buffort version of the musical comedy, with extra entertainment by the performers and musicians in the theatre's bar. Starting on Wednesday, 10. Octoberphoto: poster, raphael, grace et beaute, musee luxembourg and continuing until Sunday, 6. January 2002. Times are possibly at 20:00 and 15:00 on Sundays with the usual 'no show' day of Monday. At the Opéra Comique, 1. Place Boïeldieu, Paris 2. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot. InfoTel.: 08 25 00 00 58.

Le Marchand de Venice - is by Willy Shakespeare, who was smarter by far, than we are today. Odd dates until December, but usually at 20:30 or 14:00. In the Salle Richelieu at the Comédie Française, 2. Rue de Richelieu, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 44 58 15 15.

Rouge et Or - or, the 'Trésors du Portugal Baroque,' is a major exhibition to begin on Tuesday, 25. September and continue until 25. February 2002. Coming to the Musée Andre-Jacquemart, 158. Boulevard Haussmann, Paris 8. Métro: Miromesnil. InfoTel.: 01 42 89 04 91.

L'Or des Rois Scythes - this exhibition will fill up the Grand Palais until the end of the year, and may be the last expo in it for some time. Beginning on Thursday, 27. September. Reservations required for morning visits until 13:00; come as you are afterwards. Closed Tuesdays. At the Grand Palais, 3. Avenue du Général-Eisenhower, Paris 8. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. InfoTel.: 01 44 13 17 17.

Nouveau Cirque - the circus renews itself and even experiments, with these 'Scènes de Cirque. From Thursday, 27. September until Saturday, 13. October. From Wednesday to Saturday, at 20:30. At the Cabaret Sauvage, in the Parc de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 08 03 30 63 06.

Monde du Jeu - for its 5th edition this salon presents the universe of games, from traditional to multimedia. From Friday, 28. September to Sunday, 30. September, from 10:00 to 19:00. Entry, 60 francs. At the Espace d'Auteuil, Place de la Porte d'Auteuil, Paris 16. Métro: Porte d'Auteuil.

La Route du Poisson - on the occasion of 'Horse Days' in Paris, the descendants of the draft-horses that used to bring fish to Paris daily from the Channel ports will be in action and on display. This may be a weekend event, beginning on Saturday, 29. September, but the draft-horses will be the leads on Sunday, 30. September. Check out the Route du Poisson Web site. At the Vincennes racetrack, 2. Route de la Ferme, Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Château-Vincennes or Charenton-Ecoles. InfoTel.: 03 44 40 80 13.

Les Neuf Enceintes de Paris - each phase of Paris has its own wall, rampart, barrier or today's Perifreak! This exhibition shows them all, all at once, and from now until Sunday, 18. November; from 10:00 to 17:00 - all at the Musée de l'Armée, Hôtel des Invalides, 129. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Varennes or Latour-Maubourg. InfoTel.: 01 43 25 30 30.

Jenny Holzer - after the projections of texts around Paris, now the exhibition, until Sunday, 4. November - in the Chapelle Saint-Louis de la Salpêtrière, 47. Boulevard de l'Hôpital, Paris 13. Métro: Saint-Marcel. This is all within the Festival d'Automne program. Details at 156. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Louvre-Rivoli. InfoTel.: 01 53 45 17 00.

Gestations - photographer Muriel Toulemonda was invited to Budapest for twoposter: theatre odeon months, to study horses, the Danube's waters and Budapest's contradictions. The results will be on display from Friday, 28. September until Sunday, 18. November. From Monday to Friday, from 10:00 to 18:00. Free entry. At the Hôtel d'Albret, 31. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 84 00.

30th Festival d'Automne à Paris - a long and important program of opera, theatre and dance is included within this festival, which is dedicated to Merce Cunningham. Also to be featured is a new installation by Jenny Holzer, on view at the Salpêtrière from 20. September until 4. November. From Monday, 17. September until Friday, 21. December, when winter starts. InfoTel.: 01 53 45 17 00. Also see the Festival d'Automne's Web site.

Festival Ile-de-France - for six weeks, the eight departments surrounding Paris have their autumn festival too, this year with European themes. Beginning in September and continuing until Sunday, 14. October. For more info try the Ile-de-France Web site or InfoTel.: 01 58 71 01 01.

Didier Ben Loulou - see Jerusalem in photographs done between 1993 and 2001. Until Friday 28. September. Except Saturdays, daily from 11:00 to 18:00, and Sundays, from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 86 53.

UNESCO's Patrimony In Japan - has gathered 50 photos by Kazuoshi Miyoshi, showing Japan's sites selected by UNESCO to be part of the planet's patrimony. Until Saturday, 29. September, open from 12:00 to 19:00 and until 20:00 on Thursdays. Closed Sunday and Monday. At the Maison de la Culture du Japon, 101 bis, Quai Branley, Paris 15. Métro: Bir-Hakeim. InfoTel.: 01 44 37 96 01.

Paris' Canals - are featured in an exhibition with the full title of 'De Biefs en Ecluses, Les Canaux de Paris.' Canals are still used for working, but mainly for all sorts of pleasures - not like in the 19th century when Parisians were short of water. This exhibition features the history of everything surrounding them. Until Saturday, 29. September. Except on Sundays, from 9:30 to 18:30. In the Salon d'Acceuil of the Hôtel de Ville, 29. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 43 43. Free entry.

Paysages d'Entre - Villes - will be an open-space or garden show, presenting the works of various artists, including the Stalker group from Rome. This expo will have a relationship to another, the 'Cosa Mentale - Paysage(s)' this summer. Until Sunday, 30. September; from Tuesday to Sunday; from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Zadkine, 100-bis. Rue d'Assas, Paris 6. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs or Vavin. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 91 90.

@rt Outsiders 2001 - everything is getting tossed into the category of photography these days - things are changing. Rising 'outsiders' Nicole Tran Ba Vang and Christophe Luxereau are featured at this image festival to be held until Sunday, 30. September. Atposter: ionesco, thtr de la huchette, 44th year the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 00.

Carmen - Georges Bizet's big hit is performed by the Compagnie Trazom, directed and staged by Jacques des Longchamps, and features a considerable cast. This show has been recommended by Metropole's club members. Until Sunday, 30. September; at 19:30 and at 15:30 on Sundays. At the Théâtre du Tambour Royal, 94. Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, Paris 11. Métro: Goncourt or Belleville. InfoTel.: 01 42 66 62 06.

Hans Erni - was one of the 20th century's most prolific book illustrators as well as being a poster designer, sculptor and painter. His works are on view until Sunday, 30. September. At the Bibliothèque Historique, 24. Rue Pavée, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 44 59 29 40., 22. Rue Mahler, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul. InfoTel.: 01 44 59 29 40.

International Dance Festival - will be taking place from Tuesday, 2. October until Saturday, 20. October. Featured troupes will be the Alvin Alley American Dance Theatre, the ballet of the Prague Nation Theatre and the Tokyo Ballet. All to be at the Théâtre du Châtelet, 1. Place du Châtelet, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet. InfoTel.: 01 40 28 08 40.

Arnold Böcklin - exhibition to be held from Tuesday, 3. October until 15. January 2002. Daily from 10:00 to 18:00, and to 22:00 on Thursdays, but closed on Mondays. At the Musée d'Orsay, 1. Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, Paris 7. Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay. InfoTel.: 01 40 49 48 14.

La Comédie Humaine - Balzac's opus, in its first 'Edition Furne' was a deluxe edition with a popular price, whichposter: theatre chaillot launched modern publishing techniques in 1840. At the time the trick was to price the work low enough to discourage counterfeits and reading rooms, yet return a profit to bookshops and the author. From Tuesday, 3. October until Sunday, 6. January 2002. Except on Monday, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Maison de Balzac, 47. Rue Raynouard, Paris 16. Métro: Passy or La Muette. InfoTel.: 01 55 74 41 80.

Hans Namuth and Philippe Halsman - Namuth was art director of Harper's Bazaar, plus did 500 portraits of Jackson Pollock and other famous people. Unless it's a typo, Halsman's photos are also on view. Starting Friday, 5. October and continuing until 6. January 2002. Except Monday, daily from 10:00 to 18:30. At the Patrimoine Photographique, Hôtel de Sully, 62. Rue Saint Antoine, Paris 4. Métro: Bastille or Saint-Paul. Info. Tel.: 01 42 74 47 75.

Montmartre - Vendanges - last year the Butte's own vineyard produced a 'Cuvée Lapin Agile,' and this year may be even better. Find out on Saturday, 6. October when Montmartre has its annual wine fête, costume parade, which starts at the Mairie at 14:00 and is expected to arrive at the Rue des Saules about 16:00. Paris 18. Métro: Jules-Jofferin or Lamarck-Caulaincourt.

Territories - will be an exhibition demonstrating the crossroads between art, information and the news, as interpreted by artists. From Tuesday, 9. October until 30. December; except Mondays, from 13:00 to 19:00. At the Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts, 14. Rue Bonaparte, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Germain. InfoTel.: 01 47 03 50 74.

Raphaël - Grace et Beauté - this art hero will turn up in the Senat's little gallery for an extended stay from Wednesday, 10. October until the end of January 2002. Free entry, at the Musée du Luxembourg, 19. Rue Vaugirard, Paris 6. Métro: Saint-Sulpice or Odéon. InfoTel.: 01 42 34 25 95.

FIAC 2001 - if you are going to have 200 modern art exhibitions at once you will need a big space for it. The art galleries taking part in this year's show have been limited to 160, enabling about 30 percent of them to be first-time exhibitors. From Wednesday, 10. October until Monday, 15. October. At Paris-Expo, Porte de Versailles. Paris 15. Métro: Porte de Versailles. No InfoTel., but try the FIAC's Web site for more info.

Photo Exhibitions - featuring photographers André Martin, Alain Bublex, Alain Maccheroni and Michel Butor, from Wednesday, 10. October until Sunday, 11. November. At the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5-7. Rue de Fourcy, Paris 4. Métro: Saint-Paul or Pont-Marie. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 75 26.

Art & Essai - will be shown during 'Paris Capitale du Cinéma, from Wednesday, 10. October until Tuesday, 16. October. Location not yet announced.

Lumières Magyares - between 1870 and 1920 Hungarian painters left the 'academy' behind in their studios and began painting the light outside, which brought Hungarian painting to its highest level, at a time of change and danger. See these tendencies from Thursday, 11. October until Sunday, 13. January 2002. To be open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 11:00 to 18:00, in the Salle Saint-Jean in the Hôtel de Ville, 5. Rue Lobau, Paris 4. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. InfoTel.: 01 42 76 51 53.

Les Sports - as sculpted by Bouchard, for the 1924 Olympics foreseen for Paris. Beginning on Wednesday, 10. October and continuing until 13. March 2002. Only open on Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 14:00 to 19:00. At the Musée Bouchard, 25. Rue de l'Yvette, Paris 16. Métro: Jasmin. InfoTel.: 01 46 47 63 46.

17th Festival Paris 13 - from Monday, 15. October until Wednesday, 31. October. Info from 8. Rue des Cinq Diamants, Paris 13. InfoTel.: 01 45 80 18 62.

Mix Move - new music meets new technologies for three days, from Friday, 19. October until Sunday, 21. October. At the Grand Halle de la Villette, 211. Avenue Jean-Jaurès, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de Pantin. InfoTel.: 01 42 23 00 33.

Au Temps de Marcel Proust - an exhibition presenting more than 200 pieces from the François-Gérard Seligmann collection, mostly from the Musée Carnavalet's own collection. Focused on the Belle Epoque, with paintings ofposter: journal d'un fou, thtr akteon Paris of the period, with portraits of the real people Proust used as models in his prose. Paintings by Jean Béraud, Henri Somm and Abel Truchet. From Wednesday, 24. October until 20. January 2002. Except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the Musée Carnavalet - Histoire de Paris, 23. Rue de Sévigné, Paris 3. Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert. Info. Tel.: 01 42 72 21 13.

Cirque d'Hiver Bouglione - says only 'Trapèze' but I think you'll know what it means. Beginning on Saturday, 27. October and continuing until 27. January. At 20:30 from Tuesday to Friday and 14:00 and 17:00 on Wednesday and Saturday, with 14:00 and 20:30 for Sundays. No show Mondays and Thursday, except during school holidays when the show must go on. At the Cirque d'Hiver Bouglione, 110. Rue Amelot, Paris11. Métro: Filles-du-Calvaire. InfoTel.: 01 47 00 28 81.

Jean Dubuffet's - centennial means a major retrospective for this painter. On view until the end of the year. From 11:00 to 21:00 except on Tuesdays. At the Centre Georges Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, Paris 4. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 44 78 12 33.

Sculpture Biannual - is the 8th and it is 'European' in scope with 84 pieces. Continuing until Sunday, 14. October, daily from 10:00 to 20:00, and probably outside as well as free. In the Jardin des Plantes, Paris 5. Métro: Jussieu or Gare d'Austerlitz. InfoTel.: 01 42 78 99 91.

Musée d'Art Moderne - Dan Graham is featured until 14. October. Except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40; until 18:45 on weekends. At Paris' Musée d'Art Moderne, 11. Avenue Président Wilson, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 53 67 40 00.

Maillol Peintre - is an exhibition of 60 of the painter's works, from the period of 'Nabi' to the '40s. Until Saturday, 20. October; from 11:00 to 18:00 daily except Tuesdays. At the Musée Maillol - Fondation Dina Vierny, 59-61. Rue de Grenelle, Paris 7. Métro: Rue du Bac. InfoTel.: 01 42 22 59 58.

La Mode et l'Enfant - 'mode' did exist for kids, for at least three centuries before our own, and it is on display, including costumes for royal kids. Until Sunday, 18. November; from 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays. At the Musée de la Mode - Galleria, 10. Avenue Pierre-1st-de-Serbie, Paris 16. Métro: Iéna or Alma-Marceau. InfoTel.: 01 56 52 88 00.

François et Nicolas de Poilly - contributed to Paris reputation, beginning in 1630, as the capital of European engraving. In addition to 100 of their prints, views of Paris at the beginning of Louis XIV's reign. Until Thursday, 11. October. Daily from 10:45 to 17:45, at the Mairie of the 5th - Centre Cultural du Panthéon, 11. Rue de Mirbel, Paris 5. Métro: Luxembourg. InfoTel.: 01 55 43 10 50.

Patrimoine Disparu - from the time of Clovis until the end of the industrial revolution all sorts of important monuments - châteauxposter: thtr 71, malakoff 2001,02 and jardins - have been disappearing. It's a wonder that there is anything left to look at. Madame de Pompadour's Bellevue at Meudon may be long gone, but a wisp of drawings remain. On view until Sunday, 16. December. Closed on Tuesdays. To be at the Trianon de Bagatelle, Parc de Bagatelle, Route de Neuilly, in the Bois de Boulogne, Paris 16. Nearest métro: Pont de Neuilly, or bus 43. Park entry: 10 francs. InfoTel.: 01 45 01 20 10.

"Moi Zénobie, Reine de Palmyre" - the cultural centre of the Panthéon has arranged this exhibition to tell us about the reign of Zénobie in the third century in Egypt. From now until Sunday, 16. December, from Monday to Saturday, from 10:45 to 17:45. On Sundays and holidays from 14:00 to 18:40. Mairie of the 5th, 21. Place du Panthéon, Paris 5. Métro: RER Luxembourg. InfoTel.: 01 55 43 10 50.

Aux Frontières de l'Art Brut - continues a show begun two years ago with the works of seven others artists, operating between 'art brut' and 'art naive.' Also see 'Noir sur Blanc' which presents eight other artists, working without colors. Until Sunday, 6. January 2002. At the Halle Saint-Pierre, 2. Rue Ronsard, Paris 18. Métro: Anvers. InfoTel.:01 42 58 72 89.

Babel TV - Patrick Mimran will be at the Orangerie de Bagatelle until Monday, 15. October, from 11:00 to 18:00 daily except Tuesdays. Whatever it is besides a 'major event,' see Babel TV when you've got time to visit the Orangerie de Bagatelle, in the Bois de Boulogne. Paris 16. Métro: Pont de Neuilly. InfoTel.: 01 45 01 20 10.

Savignac - one of the best poster designers in the last half the last century, Raymond Savignac had his first displayed in 1933. This exhibition runs until Saturday, 12. January 2002. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 13:30 to 20:00. At the Bibliothèque Forney, Hôtel de Sens,1. Rue Figuier, Paris 4. Métro: Pont Marie InfoTel.:01 42 78 14 60.

Lettonie, Latvija - is an exhibition from the collection of the National Museum of History of Latvia. The occasion is the 800th anniversary of the founding of Riga. Until Sunday, 20. January. Except for Tuesdays and holidays, from 9:15 to 17:15. At the Musée de l'Homme, Palais de Chaillot, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro. InfoTel.: 01 44 05 72 00.

Un Art Populaire - is an exhibition presenting some strange, some wonderful, 'popular' art with 150 works by 50 artists from all continents. Until Sunday, 4. November; from 12:00 to 20:00 daily except Mondays. At the Fondation Cartier Pour l'Art Contemporain, 261. Boulevard Raspail, Paris 14. Métro: Raspail or Denfert-Rochereau. Info. Tel.: 01 42 18 56 50.

"Mille Sabords!" - features Tintin, Haddock, the dog and the other characters from the ever-lasting comic book seriesposter: cirque, la villette by Hergé. Until Monday, 10. December; from 10:00 to 17:45, except Tuesdays. It's the Captain Haddock connection that put this into the Musée de la Marine, 17. Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16. Métro: Trocadéro. InfoTel.: 01 53 65 69 69.

Jouer la Lumière! - features threads, textiles, lace - all of which changes with light and one's viewpoint. Recommended by Metropole's club members. Except Mondays, from 11:00 to 18:00; on Wednesdays until 21:00. Until Monday, 31. December. At the Musée de la Mode, 107. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 44 55 57 50.

The Louvre - is a huge place, somewhat like a 'hypermarché' of a museum. In addition to the tens of thousands of exhibits on permanent display, there are also special exhibitions. One on now is called 'Le Quartier du Musée du Louvre, XVIIe Siècle,' which continues until 31. December. From 9:00 to 18:00 and until 21:45 on Wednesdays. Closed Tuesdays. The Musée du Louvre, Pyramide entry, Cour Napoléon, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal. InfoTel.: 01 40 20 57 60.

L'Oeil Voyageur - is a vast outdoor exhibition of photos by Uwe Ommer and Frédéric de La Mure, currently on display on the railings surrounding the National Assembly and the French Foreign Affairs Ministry on the Quai d'Orsay, near the Pont de la Concorde on the left bank. Also see the Ministère des Affaires étrangères Web site. This exhibition continues until Sunday, 30. September. Paris 7. Métro: Invalides or Assemblée Nationale.

Helen Levitt - for a long time known only to insiders for her 'Street Photography,' this exhibition shows photos of immigrants, from the '60s to the '90s. Until Monday, 19. November. Except Tuesdays, hours are from 12:00 to 19:00. At the Centre National de la Photographie, 11. Rue Berryer, Paris 8. Métro: Etoile or George V. InfoTel.: 01 53 76 12 32.

Au-dessus des Catacombs - the Cata combs are open again, with a new photo exhibition continuing until February 2002. Note - the 'tour' is 1.7 km long, and there are quite a number of entry and exit stairs. Closed on Mondays and some holidays, but open on Tuesday from 11:00 to 16:00 and from Wednesday to Sunday from 9:00 to 16:00. At the Catacombs, 1. Place Denfert-Rochereau, Paris 14. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. InfoTel.: 01 43 22 47 63.

Photographies Hongroises - 'from the romantic to the avant-garde,' features 100 photos rarely seen outside Hungary from the 1880-1925 period - from Budapest's Hungarian Museum of Photography, selected by Kàroly Kincses, with Anne Cartier-Bresson and Catherine de Bourgoing. This important exhibition continues until Sunday, 28. October. Except Mondays, open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. At the Musée de la Vie Romantique - Hôtel Scheffer-Renan, 16. Rue Chaptal, Paris 9. Métro: Saint-Georges, Blanche or Pigalle. InfoTel.: 01 48 74 95 38.

Panorama of Hungarian Photographers - without details, this appears to be another fresh-air exhibition, on view until sometime in October. To be found in the garden of the Palais-Royal, 1. Place du Palais-Royal, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal-Louvre. InfoTel.: 01 43 26 06 44.

Forum des Images - features films about films, the cinéma about the cinéma, until Sunday, 28. October. Otherwise, screenings of Paris' film collection in mini-cinemas from Tuesday to Sunday from 12:00 to 21:00. At the Forum des Images, Porte Sainte-Eustache, Forum des Halles, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet-Les Halles. InfoTel.: 01 44 76 62 00.

Jerusalem, Traverses et Marges - the old city has been photographed non-stop since 1993 by Didier Ben Loulou, and a selection of the photos are on view until Friday, 28. September at the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme, Hôtel Saint-Aignan, 71. Rue du Temple, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 53 01 86 60.

The Cinémathèque Française operates in two locations - at the Palais de Chaillot at Trocadéro, garden entry - and at its location on the Grands Boulevards at 42. Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 10. Métros: Trocadéro for Chaillot and Bonne Nouvelle for Grands Boulevards. Program InfoTel.: 01 56 26 01 01.

Le Voyage d'Hiver - Franz Schubert's 'Winterreise,' until Sunday, 30. September, at the Théâtre du Châtelet. Also hear the orchestra and chorus of Saint-Petersburg's Mariinski Theatre on 26. September. At the Théâtre du Châtelet, 1. Place du Châtelet, Paris 1. Métro: Châtelet. InfoTel.: 01 40 28 08 40.

Les Nouveaux Solistes - fill up the greenhouses at Auteuil with classical music until Monday, 1. October. At the Serres d'Auteuil, Pavillon des Azalées, 3. Avenue de la Porte d'Auteuil, Paris 16. Métro: Porte d'Auteuil. InfoTel.: 01 46 44 55 42.

Opéras - have resumed in Paris at their locations in the Palais Garnier and at the Place de la Bastille. Current and comming productions include Rigoletto, Verdi's 'Attila' and Benjamin Britten's 'Billy Budd.' Also for ballet, check the Web site for both, or phone InfoTel.: 08 36 69 78 68, which is a toll number.

Leclerc et Ses Hommes - Crossed Destinies - the victor of Koufra, liberator of Paris and Strasbourg, did it all with a wide variety men from all stations in life, who contributed to his and their own destinies. Presented with a background of comics from 1948-49, this exhibition continues until Sunday, 20. January 2002. Open daily except Mondays, from 10:00 to 17:40. At the 'Mémorial du Maréchal Leclerc Hauteclocque et de la Libération de Paris - Musée Jean Moulin,' Jardin Atlantique, above the Gare Montparnasse. Paris 15. InfoTel.: 01 40 64 39 44.

Objectif Mars - is an exhibition of the history of Earth's 'sister' planet,' as seen - or imagined - from Earth. Until Thursday, 6. January, from 9:30 to 18:00; on Sundaysbrochure: l'ombre de venceslao, thtr rond point and holidays from 10:00 to 19:00. Closed Monday. At the Palais de la Découverte, Avenue Franklin-Roosevelt, Paris 8. Métro: same name. Info. Tel.: 01 56 43 20 21.

Decoding Hair - or, 'Le Cheveu se Décode' is an exhibition about hair, which is more fascinating than you may think, regardless of it being short, long, blond or green. From Tuesday to Saturday, from 10:00 to 18:00; on Sundays from 10:00 to 19:00; until Sunday, 6. January 2002. At the Cité des Sciences, 30. Avenue Corentin-Cariou, Paris 19. Métro: Porte de la Villette. InfoTel.: 01 40 05 80 00.

L'Or des Amazones - is an exhibition of the prestigious works by nomads from the steppes of Asia; from 600 BC to 400 AD. All the pieces are on loan from southern Russian museums and include the entire collection from the tomb of the Princess of Kobiakovo. Until Sunday, 7. October. Open from 10:00 to 17:40 daily except Mondays. Musée Cernuschi, 7. Avenue Vélasquez, Paris 8. Métro: Villiers. InfoTel.: 01 45 63 50 75. After the current exhibition, this museum will close until 2004 for renovations.

250 Years of Ads - from the 18th century to the present, see the permanent collection of the Musée de la Publicité. Except Mondays, from 11:00 to 18:00, until 21:00 on Wednesdays, and 10:00 to 18:00 on weekends. Musée de la Publicité, at 107. Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1. Métro: Palais-Royal-Louvre. InfoTel.: 01 44 55 57 50.

Jardin Botanique - is Paris' 'show' garden, featuring its ordinary, its rare and its exceptional plant-life, such as a rare tree from Easter Island. This exhibition also has features for kids. Until Sunday, 30 September; daily from 9:30 to 19:30. At the Parc Floral de Paris, Route de la Pyramide, in the Bois de Vincennes. Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes. InfoTel.: 01 43 28 47 63.

Antique Métro Rides - because of the métro's 100th anniversary last year, the RATP has decided to re-re-run the old red and green 'Sprague' wagons dating from the '30s. The line chosen for this is the six, between Kléber and Nation, which is largely elevated and crosses the Seine twice. Brief photo-op stops are made on the Bir-Hakeim and Bercy bridges. Reckon on 80 minutes for the round-trip. Trains leave from the Kléber station at 14:30 and 16:30. These trains will be running one more Sunday only - on the 7. October. Reservations are necessary. InfoTel.: 01 48 04 22 65.

Roue Libre - is the RATP's program to get you out of the métro and off the buses, and on to your own pedal-power. HQ is at 95. bis, Rue Rambuteau in Les Halles, plus five other moblie locations. Bike rentals are from 20 francs per hour and tours are from 85 francs, and require reservations. On the month's last Saturday, long tours are organized - call the HQ for details. InfoTel.: 01 53 46 43 77, which is necessary to call for the guided tours.

En Route Pour la Cirque - an exhibition of yesterday's and today's circus, for both little kids and big adults - in this 'Year of the Circus' lasting until April 2002. At the same location see 'Picasso's Paint Box,' until Sunday, 30. September. Daily from 10:00 to 18:00; on Saturdays from 14:00 to 18:00. At the Musée en Herbe, in the Jardin d'Acclimatation just inside the Bois de Boulogne. Paris 16. Métro: Sablons. InfoTel.: 01 40 67 97 66.

Les Pestacles - is for kids, with 22 free shows featuring clowns, music, puppets, music, magic, clowns, music and so on. On Wednesdays at 14:30, until Saturday, 29. September. At the Parc Floral de Paris, Route de la Pyramide, in the Bois de Vincennes, Paris 12. Métro: Château de Vincennes. InfoTel.: 01 55 94 20 20.

Les Grands Eaux Musicales - is the Château de Versailles' annual H2O and musical fountain show. Every Sunday, at the 'Grande Perspective' frombrochure: samuel fuller, cinematheque francaise 11:00 to 12:00; and at 15:30 at all of the Bassins and Bosquets, with the finale at the 'Bassin de Neptune' around 17:20. On Saturdays until 29. September. At the Parc du Château de Versailles. Take a train from the Gare Montparnasse or Saint-Lazare, or the RER 'C.' InfoTel.: 01 30 83 78 88.

Pouet-Pouets! - is an exhibition of dolls based on famous comic book characters. Until Sunday, 30. September; from 10:00 to 18:00 daily except Mondays. At the Musée de la Poupée, in the Impasse Berthaud, just off 22. Rue Rambuteau, Paris 3. Métro: Rambuteau. InfoTel.: 01 42 72 73 11.

Paris' Balloon - offers Paris views from a high place, without need of an elevator. Still in the air until the end of the year but you should definitely call first to find out if it is a balloon day or not. If so, first lift-off at 9:00, until dark. For adults, 66 francs and 33 for kids. At the Parc André Citroën, Paris 15. Métro: Balard or Javel. Flight info at InfoTel.: 01 44 26 20 00.

Paris' Big Wheel - presents Paris views from another high place, which is called Concorde. Meant to come down at the end of 2000, the concession has been extended until Mnday, 7. January 2002. so there are a couple of days left for your ride. From 11:00 to 00:30 Place de la Concorde, Métro Concorde.

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